September 15, 2012
7:50 PM
by: Uhockey

Bourbon Steak, Scottsdale AZ

The Gist: http://www.scottsdaleprincess.com/dining/bourbon-steak

The Why: My friend Michael had suggested we check out something for Arizona’s restaurant week and while I generally do not fancy the “RW” concept due to limited menus, rushed service, and the sort of diners who only visit high end dining locales during such “events” I figured that if anyplace could do it right it would be a top end steakhouse from one of America’s greatest restaurateurs – Michael Mina. A fan of Mina’s upscaled takes on American classics and having visited his restaurants in Michigan, California, and Baltimore I was additionally impressed by the Restaurant Week menu at Bourbon Steak and the location less than two miles from my office at the Scottsdale Princess Resort really couldn’t be overlooked.

The Reservation: A bit convoluted, this reservation was set up by Mr. Ed Tracy, the GM at Michael Mina’s NobHill Tavern in Las Vegas – a man I’d met during my visit to Bourbon Steak Detroit a number of years back who’d apparently been keeping tabs on my blog ever since. Having originally reached out to me regarding a reservation at Nobhill that I unfortunately had to take a raincheck on (Christmas, I’m hoping) due to the delayed closing on my house Mr. Tracy offered to arrange for our reservation at Bourbon Steak on short notice and although he certainly did not owe me such a thing I was happy to accept as there are few things better than a good meal to take the edge off of life’s stress.

The Space: Bourbon Steak Scottsdale, much like the Detroit iteration, is big and swanky with lots of wood, high ceilings, and lacquered tables all befitting the resort and the price point. Light on linens, heavy on stonework, wood, and brushed metals I like to think of this design as steakhouse chic – an elegant place for people with the necessary means to feed their carnivorous urges in style – it could be Mastro’s, Cut, or any of the others…not a negative, just a fact.

The Service: Ignoring the oddities of checking in at a hotel restaurant in Scottsdale – the forced valet, the ‘central’ podium, and the long hallways service was everything you’d expect from a Mina restaurant; personable and informed, expeditious but never hurried, and happy to discuss their fondness for the restaurant’s patriarch. Taking into account the fact that our reservation was arranged as it was I’d be foolish to say that a trio of visits from GM Anibal Macias was something every other diner should expect but all things being equal it seemed every table was well taken care of by Anibal’s team and our server, Christina, never left us for want even when performing some of Mina’s famous tableside preps across the room.

The Food: Amuse, Bread Service, 1 Restaurant Week Menu, 1 appetizer, 1 main, and 2 extra (comped) desserts plus coffee and a parting gift.

Amuse Bouche – Trio of Duck Fat Fries including Smoked Paprika-BBQ Sauce, Pepper Dusted-Rosted Garlic Aioli, and Fine Herbs-Onion Ketchup: Known in the past for his ‘trios,’ at his San Francisco Flagship the meal at The Princess started the same as that at MGM Detroit with a trio of perfect French fries each dusted with a signature spice blend and matched to a complimentary condiment. Crunchy on the exterior and just a bit toothsome within I’m still not exactly sure that I’m ‘sold’ on the way so many chef’s flaunt the use of duck fat for fries but all things being equal these were really good, particularly the fine herbs interpretation.

Foie Gras Duo with Roasted Bing Cherries and Almond Streusel: While I generally eschew the restaurant week menu it was the non-RW appetizer that would prove to be the biggest failure of the meal and, perhaps, the biggest food failure I’ve had since moving to the valley – simply stated, this was a piece of foie that should have never made it to the kitchen let alone to the table. Undersized, overcooked, poorly cleaned, and still somehow lukewarm on arrival there was really nothing to like about the seared portion of liver aside from the cherries – and least of all the veins and sinew zigzagging the palate. Moving on to the second half of the duo a creamy terrine beneath cherry gel was presented and paired with buttery brioche it was nearly good enough to save the plate – but not quite, particularly as Christina’s response to our complaint was simply taking the dish off of our bill rather than suggesting the chef take a second try with a better piece of foie gras and more attention to detail.

Caramelized Black Mission Figs- Spicy Sopressata, Preserved Lemon Ricotta: Rather horrified by the liver I was heartened by the first choice from the restaurant week menu; a sort of composed cheese plate featuring the intense fructose of fresh figs matched up against the bite of sopressata and lightly fragranced ricotta. Like most Bay Area chefs I’d suggest that if a Mina restaurant is offering up a fig dish you’d be wise to order it.

Potato Black Truffle Bread: Having mentioned the stellar cornbread served at Detroit’s Bourbon Steak Michael mentioned a really good skillet bread he’d experienced on his last visit to the Scottsdale location and inquiring with Christina we were told the bread was ‘by request only’ and as odd as that would seem it is definitely worth inquiring about; a light and spongy focaccia style bread rife with a nose of black truffles and topped with crunchy sea salt.

Crispy Sonoma Duck Breast- Cipollini & Brussel Sprout Hash, Huckleberry Compote: One of three RW main courses and for my dollar the most obvious choice by a landslide the kitchen was gracious enough to serve us each a separate portion of the Sonoma margret and while I cannot say it soared to the same levels as Chef DeRuvo’s version at Davanti Enoteca a few weeks prior this was another excellent preparation of my favorite protein with the aged fowl’s slight must perfectly tempered by the pungent hash and sweet berry reduction. Easily cut with the edge of a fork despite being served with one of the restaurant’s signature steak knives and as tender as you could hope I’m still having trouble getting over the fact that I now live in a city where good duck exists at not just one but multiple restaurants.

Whole Fried Chicken for Two with Truffled Mac & Cheese: Yes it is $58 for chicken, but compared to the $200 Bresse at Savoy or the $78 version at The Nomad I guess you could call this brined, battered, and duck fat fried version a bargain if it was nearly as good as the others…and thankfully it was. Featuring a plump hen with breading so dainty that it approximated the thickness of skin the bird was carved tableside and laid on a bed of truffled macaroni and cheese plus baby carrots before being topped with crispy onion rings and with each of the accoutrements quite delicious none were as good as the chicken itself – dense, moist, full of flavor, and complimented by rather than being overwhelmed by the seasoned breading.

Passion Fruit Panna Cotta Guava, Kaffir Lime, Coconut Sorbet: Still reeling from the chicken and generally not one to fancy passion fruit or panna cotta this RW menu dessert was actually much better than I’d anticipated and with pieces of grapefruit and lime adding an intense sour component to the otherwise sweet custard it was actually the coconut sorbet that brought this dish together preventing any one component from outshining the others.

Bourbon Bar- Dark Chocolate, Peanut Butter, Pretzel: Seeing as how my writing is impossibly behind at this point suffice it to say I’d already experienced this dish at Baltimore’s Wit & Wisdom and I was glad to revisit it as the alternate RW dessert. Described loosely as the chef’s interpretation of a candy bar this dessert beings with a core of sweetened peanut butter mousse and dresses it with dense 70% dark chocolate ganache before bespeckling it with crumbled nougat, peanuts, and finally chocolate covered pretzels. Clearly a dessert designed for an American sweet tooth the only thing that needed to make this dessert the perfect steakhouse finale was a single malt whiskey…or a few cups of Mina’s signature blend coffee from LAMill.

Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Icing, Crème Fraiche Sorbet: With Mr. Mathias stopping by to check in as we enjoyed our dessert a conversation about Mina et al’s approach to pastry ensued and after mentioning my fondness for his unique interpretations of American comfort foods we found ourselves gifted this one last plate. Beginning at its base with airy spice cake flecked with carrots and studded with currants atop a smear of whipped cream cheese this dessert, much like the panna cotta, was taken to a whole different level through the addition of two frozen quenelles, one tangy crème fraiche and the other strikingly vegetal carrots. Bite for bite the most delicious and complicated of the evening’s three desserts this was every bit as good as any of the desserts I had at Wit & Wisdom and just another example how Chef Mina understands the powerful effect of American comfort foods.

Caramel Corn with Black Truffle: A parting gift for each party I’ll admit I was skeptical when this bag of popcorn was presented but in the end it would in fact prove to be the most notable of the three “truffled” options of the evening as the fungi’s signature aromatics rose came through brightly over the salt and sweet of the popcorn; an effect I’d have to guess was attributable to the use of truffle oil, truffle salt, or both.

The Verdict: While certainly not a perfect meal – especially when taking into account the butchering of one of my favorite ingredients – there are a lot of things to like about Bourbon Steak and although my fondness for Michael Mina is balanced by my general ‘ennuyer’ for steakhouse cuisine I have little doubt I’ll find myself back at The Scottsdale Princess sometime again soon – particularly if they should ever bring back the mussels soufflé or perhaps simply to work through a tasting of the half priced desserts after 9:00pm alongside a lobster pot pie.

Posted in Arizona, Bourbon Steak, Bread Basket, Coffee, Foie, Food, Michael Mina, Phoenix, Pork, Scottsdale, Truffle

September 15, 2012
7:17 AM
by: Uhockey

Essence Bakery / Caffe Boa / Cornish Pasty Co / Cartel Coffee, Tempe AZ

With my Vegas plans evaporated by the gross incompetence of Chase bank and their failings to appropriately process a loan for my new home and my life for the next few weeks now relegated to a combination of (hopefully) moving, (probably) studying, and (definitely) working long hours I decided to take my second Saturday in a row to explore Arizona’s culinary landscape – this time starting in Tempe where I fortunately talked my way out of a traffic violation en route to Essence Bakery, a spot that had been on my “to eat” list since my original visit to the Valley of the Sun.

Owned and operated by Eugenia Theodosopoulos (an Ohio native, fyi) and considered by many to be the best patisserie/bakery in the state I approached Essence with a note of skepticism largely assuming much of the hype was derived from Tempe’s plethoric college crowd but arriving at the doors of the small shop on a particularly lovely 80 degree morning I gathered quite quickly that my original conceptions were misplaced; not only does Essence not look like a college haunt, neither do its prices or products – a vast selection of at least twenty items aside from the posted menu sitting beneath and atop a glass case forcing me to make more than one tough decision that was not helped by my server’s accurate assessment that everything was really good.

Now bearing in mind that the original impetus to visit Tempe on this particular morning was to visit Caffe Boa and that Essence was more of ‘pre-meal’ activity what follows may seem slightly gluttonous, but to be fair once I took my first bite of Theodosopoulos’s École Lenôtre trained almond croissant I knew I was in good hands and everything else just sort of followed. Without a doubt my favorite breakfast pastry and perhaps my favorite French pastry overall, Essence’s $3 twice baked option arrives slightly smaller than the average but with a shell that crackles to the tooth and an interior that is at once yawning pockets of air and nearly overloaded with butter and light frangipane there is no doubt that this is a case of “big things in small packages,” and particularly in its still-warm morning state the flavors and textures rivaled those at Dominique Ansel and Payard Las Vegas for best I’ve had stateside.

Moving next from the baked goods to one prepared from the menu my second taste of the morning aside from the slightly earthy and lightly leather accented coffee was Essence’s “Signature” French Toast, a $7.25 selection featuring three griddled slices of eggy brioche and a sidecar of what I can best describe as banana infused caramel. Rich but thinly sliced and therefore nicely saturated each piece of the French Toast was exactly as it should be – the exterior crisp and the interior custard – while the sauce provided a pleasant balance of fruity notes and intrinsic sweetness that complimented rather than overwhelming the bread.

At this point submitting to the fact that I was going to eat even the items I’d bought ‘for later,’ my next two tastes were a pair of $2.95 macarons that, much like the croissant, rivaled those both here and abroad in terms of taste and texture while opting for a much more rustic approach terms of size and presentation. Beginning first with Pumpkin Spice and then proceeding to Vanilla with Dark Rum each palm-sized cookie was exactly what one would expect from a well trained pastry chef as the exterior shell provided a slight crackle on bite subsequently giving way to a soft meringue followed by dense cream that slowly dissipated on the tongue – the cinnamon and nutmeg notes of the former particularly notable while the rum in the second was appropriately understated thus serving to highlight the vanilla of the shell.

If there were any ‘misstep’ on the morning, it *might* have been the “Summer Berry Croissant Bread Pudding with Fresh Strawberry Sauce,” though when I say misstep I must temper the comment with the fact that my quibble is only that I prefer the French/English take on the dish while this one was more based on the French Custard style, a rich vanilla bean pudding without a lot of crunch or textural variance but instead laden with blackberries, raspberries, and strawberries plus a sidecar of lightly sugared strawberries. Focusing more of the natural sweetness of the fruits and aromatics of the vanilla than the typical overly sweet versions served stateside it was more panna cotta than bread pudding to me, but chalking that up to personal tastes it was still delicious.

Moving last to the one dish that gave me trepidation, the “French Napoleon” gave  pause not only because the name clearly skewed towards a subset unfamiliar with a proper Mille-Feuille but also because so many pre-made versions of this layered pastry have failed to wow in the past…thankfully this was not the case at Essence. Featuring light and crunchy layers of choux easily withstanding the tines of a fork without turning into a smooshy mess (see “Mille Feuille New York”) intertwined with rich pastry cream speckled with dots of vanilla bean and ripe raspberries what truly made this version stand out was the manner in which Theodosopoulos caramelized each layer of choux, a technique reminiscent of Pierre Herme and as good as the French icon’s version was I’d be hard pressed to say Essence’s was any less impressive. It would be awesome to see what they could do a la minut like Savoy, L’Arpege, or Genin and given the names I’ve dropped in the paragraphs above plus Essence’s proximity I’ve no doubt I’ll be returning to see what else the small shop is capable of soon.

Having already mentioned my next stop as the primary impetus to visit Tempe in the first place I’ll start off by saying I’d originally identified Caffe Boa when browsing SlowFood.com and having subsequently read the profiles of both Jay Wisniewski and his wife on the website I was sold that it was a place to put on my list; a fact that a 50% off coupon from localdines.com certainly did not hurt.

Located on Mill Avenue, a space much maligned by local epicures and gourmands due to the proliferation of ASU “College food” stops such as pizza and burgers Caffe Boa seemed to be a sort of panacea to the area’s dining trend with its focus that which is local/fresh/organic and with offerings of brunch, lunch, and dinner I decided to make my fist visit a morning one; an audition, if you will, to see if a dinnertime drive to Tempe would be well advised in the future and recruiting my friend Aileen to join we scheduled for 10am since she had to be at work by 11:30.

Arriving just minutes late largely due to parking issues ($1.50/hr, FYI, though there is rumor of a free lot) after spending some time wandering around Mill and the ASU campus I entered Caffe Boa to find the restaurant much larger than I’d anticipated from the website and with only one other table occupied and my friend already arrived it would not be long before our server stopped by, told us of the mimosa table ($15,) and explained the new menu before filling Aileen’s coffee and a glass of water with cucumber for each of us.

Having each browsed the menu prior to arrival and with $40 to spend it would not be long before our decisions were made and with three plates to be shared amongst us ordered it would also not be long until we were left to wait…and wait…and wait…nearly twenty minutes before someone returned to prepare my friend water without cucumber and nearly fifty minutes before our food arrived; Aileen now likely to be late for work and myself simply hoping the food would be worth the wait.

Beginning first with the savory as my morning visit to Essence had been quite sweet the Croissant Croque Monsieur (sans Dijon) along with an egg requested to be soft poached would prove to be the first disappointment of the day as the overall composition of the dish was simply poorly conceived – the croissant lacking any crunch and weighted down by the cheese, the béchamel largely blurred by the brine of the ham, and the $2 egg most certainly not soft poached (especially since a quality kitchen can sous vide a perfect 63-degree egg in less time than Boa prepared this one.) The salad was fresh and the dish was edible, but at $16…even with the localdines certificate I felt ripped off.

Moving next to a pair of sweets, Aileen opted for the Parisian Crepes with Apricot preserves, Crème Chantilly, and Berries and requesting the dish without powdered sugar I think we both kind of chuckled at the lackluster presentation but unlike the croque this dish was at least tasty; the crepes dainty with a goodly amount of sweet filling and the crème light yet flavorful but at $12 probably not enough to satiate all but the slightest appetite.

For our final (and certainly most decadent) taste of Boa an order of Stuffed Pain Perdu arrived featuring two pieces of brioche wrapped around a light layer of mascarpone and Nutella that was subsequently battered and dipped in hazelnuts prior before a trip to the pan. Nicely caramelized with an exterior still featuring a bit of crunch and an interior just short of custard plus a topping of caramelized bananas, raisins, and maple the overall flavor profile was certainly sweet but at the same time nicely balanced and certainly a step up from the rest of the morning…even if nearly twice the price and half as good as the French Toast at Essence just hours before. A 60 minute wait and $40 (plus tax and tip) for 3 items – only one of which was even remotely memorable – let’s just say Caffe Boa won’t see a starring role in my dinner plans any time soon.

Shopping, studying, and surfing the internet followed Boa and after a few hours of hanging out with hipsters and being happy I own neither a MacBook nor an Ipod while drinking and excellent chocolate toned cup of Guatemalan Finca El Limonar followed by an iced Toddy made with a 50/50 blend of Black Market and Viota at Cartel Coffee Lab’s flagship location on University I decided lunch was in order and debating whether to return to Phoenix/Scottsdale or to spend the rest of the afternoon in Tempe I decided on the later so that I could check out something new – the pasty.

Apparently hailing from the British city of Cornwall and here in Arizona finding its foothold at the appropriately named Cornish Pasty Company I had originally heard of the pasty during a recent trip to Philadelphia where the baked crescent was a daily special on the menu at The Dandelion but featuring the least the combination of beef, rutabaga, onion, and potato I cannot really say my interest as high – a situation remedied by the extensive (if inauthentic selection at Cornish Pasty Company and thus leading me through their doors just after 2:30pm where I’d find the small bar area still full but the larger dining room only perhaps half so.

Largely unaware of the logistics of CPC – whether you seat yourself or wait to be seated and whether you order at the counter or at a table I stood and watched for a moment before deciding to seat myself and within moments a friendly young woman named Hannah greeted me, first offering a beverage – just water – and subsequently the restaurant’s extensive menu which I browsed at length while listening to The Sex Pistols and then The Clash play overhead. An eclectic list of Pasty’s both ‘traditional,’ ‘signature,’ and ‘premium’ plus a collection of soups, salads, and sides I asked Hannah about portions on her return and told that each pasty clocked in at approximately a pound (and that two would be “way too much” food for a solo diner since she could only eat half of one) thus leading me to settle on a single option, a dish I was told would take “about fifteen minutes,” leaving me more time to study and enjoy the tunes – the White Stripes perhaps the only thing ‘un-British’ in a string of songs ranging from Zeppelin to The Beatles to The Ramones.

Reading as I waited and enjoying the room as well as watching the team slice meat, shape dough, and chop vegetables it would be just under a quarter hour before my dish arrived and although smaller than I’d imagined (I definitely could have eaten two – probably three if I didn’t have dessert and dinner plans) the Shepherd’s Pie that was presented was far better than I’d have ever expected, a golden buttery shell wrapped around lightly mint tinged lamb and although fatty and intense nicely balanced by the vegetables. Generally a fan of Shepherd’s Pie, particularly when using a sharp cheddar, this handheld version would prove to be an exemplary take on the classic and the addition of a sidecar of onion and sage laden red wine gravy certainly did not hurt.

Debating a second pasty as Hannah returned to check in on me (The Pilgrim sounds quite good) but subsequently turning my attention to the sweeter half of the menu I decided to not make the same mistake twice and inquiring as to which dessert she recommended I went with my gut and ordered two to arrive with a delay between them, the first “Shirley Temple’s Pudding,” a $6 sticky toffee pudding served in a cast iron pot with a side of crème anglaise. Rich and thick, a dark treacle just barely set at the center and almost a brownie consistency along the edges what really shined about this dish was the manner in which it worked with the crème, a thick but delicate sauce balancing out the intense sweetness of the pudding.

Moving next to my second dessert, and for my tastes the better of the two, a goodly delay of fifteen minutes brought to the table Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding with vanilla ice cream – a truly unique spin on bread pudding made with what almost seemed to be cracker-thin pieces of bread juxtaposing a brandy tinged chocolate sauce and baked much like the sticky toffee pudding to be set at the edges yet dense and moist at the center. Truly a decadent dessert – the sort begging for a glass of milk or coffee – I will say that the ice cream was rather run-of-the-mill vanilla and although it served its purpose admirably I’d definitely go with more anglaise on subsequent visits – visits which I’m sure will happen the next time I find myself drawn back to Tempe, or to Mesa where there is apparently a second location whose Banoffee Pie and Apple Caramel Pasties seem to be calling.

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Caffe Boa, Cartel Coffee, Coffee, Cornish Pasty Company, Croissant, Essence Bakery, Food, French Toast, Macaroon, Phoenix, Pork, Scottsdale, Tempe

September 8, 2012
8:43 PM
by: Uhockey

noca, Phoenix AZ

The Gist: http://www.restaurantnoca.com/

The Why: A work of passion from a former stock trader turned restauranteur, noca had been on my “to visit” list ever since I visited Phoenix for my recruitment in September of 2011, but unfortunately a chef shift right before I visited (and another thereafter) gave me pause. Owned by Eliot Wexler and considered by many locals ‘in-the-know’ to be amongst the best restaurants in the city I knew I would eventually make my visit, but it was not until the high praise of new chef Claudio Urciuoli’s cuisine and a ringing endorsement from Steve Plotnicki via facebook came across that I moved noca to #1 on my list. With a concept that seems rather straight forward – high end ingredients prepared with an Italian twist in a casual environment – I generally assumed that noca was going to impress, and at a price point that seemed bargain basement compared to similar establishments in New York, Chicago, and elsewhere.

The Reservation: For the sake of full disclosure I have to note here that I was known walking in the door. Between Steve’s endorsements that I must meet his friend Eliot and another local diner who’d apparently told Mr. Wexler about me months before I figured it was only proper to introduce myself to the restaurant’s owner prior to making a reservation – an introduction that led to a string of e-mails covering everything from sourcing to local general contractors, and finally a reservation at 8:30pm on Saturday night (actually secured ~18 hours before the meal via Opentable.) What I hadn’t planned on, however, was a stop earlier in the day to check out the afternoon ‘nocawich’ menu…but hey, why not?

The Space: Located, like many Phoenix restaurants, in a simple strip mall the exterior of noca is nothing to get excited about – it could be any random sports bar or billiards hall, but what lies inside is actually quite sleek; a sort of urban industrial feel but still sort of homey and laid back. By day more casual and by night more trendy the use of industrial light bulbs plus spotlights and mirrors allows the room to be as intimate or as bright as necessary and with an open kitchen during both lunch and dinner service there is plenty to watch. With a lively bar, close set tables lacquered in black, and brick walls plus a lively soundtrack I will say the space gets loud, but certainly not overly so, and for those who enjoy watching a kitchen at work the marble chef’s counter is a great place to eat.

The Service: Considering how busy noca was (not an empty seat in the house save for the one to my left) I was stunned at the fluidity and efficiency of service. Dishes were presented with ample descriptions, questions of ingredients and preparations were answered thoroughly and knowledgably, and aside from a few small quirks (that the average diner would have never paid a second thought to) my primary server named Jenny could not have been more pleasant, professional, or helpful with her suggestions. A lively spot where many patrons probably don’t really pay attention to the quality of the service I’ll simply say I’ve been to a number of Michelin starred spots with a far less impressive front of house.

The Food: A sandwich and dessert at Nocawich at lunch/two drinks, eight courses, bread, amuses, mignardises at dinner.

Croque Madame with Pork Belly, Brioche, Fried Egg, Gruyere Foam: This $10 sandwich from the Saturday Noca(wich) menu would feature a slightly modernist update on the French classic and as much as I love the combination of ham, egg, and cheese in all forms this one raised the bar a bit by utilizing tender belly bacon from Mr. Wexler’s supplier out of Iowa paired with crisp brioche, a perfect sunny side egg, a thin slice of aged gruyere, and finally an aromatic foam from an ISI Whip that made cheese whiz seem tame in comparison. As good as the lobtah roll sounded, I find it hard to believe it would have trumped the croque – but I’m certainly going back with my BOGO from dinner to find out.

Red Velvet Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting: Simple, dense, moist, and featuring an ample amount of tangy cream cheese icing there really isn’t much else to say about this cake. Not overly sweet like so many ‘designer’ cupcakes the $3.50 rustic wedge was a welcome change from the norm – the cocoa allowed to shine rather than taking a back seat to the sugar.

Bricco Riella Moscato D’Asti: Moving on to dinner, my night began with a complementary beverage from Eliot – a sweet and light-bubbly DOCG Moscato that was nice for sipping throughout the lighter opening courses and the sort of sparkler I’d gladly drink in place of the typical Prosecco served at other haute-Italian restaurants.

PB&J: A second beverage, served later in the meal and suggested by Jenny, consisted of Peanut Infused Buffalo Trace Bourbon, muddled raspberries, and a splash of fresh lemon. Generally not one to fancy the oakiness of bourbon I have to say the original suggestion gave me pause, but I figured at $10 I could afford to take a chance and as my reward I surprisingly excellent drink with the aromatics of the peanuts pairing with the smokiness of the charred oak barrels to help balance the bitterness of the alcohol while the sweetness of the raspberries came through as a jammy sort of flavor that dissipated soon after it hit the tongue.

House Focaccia: Somewhat less oily than the average focaccia and served without butter or oil the bread service at noca is serviceable but nothing to write home about; the sort of bread you’d use to mop up sauces but certainly not overindulge on – perhaps a good thing considering the portion sizes (as I’d soon find out.)

Panzanella Salad, House Bread, Cherry tomatoes: The night’s amuse this straightforward take on a traditional Italian Summer Salad was one bite off a spoon; bold, balanced, toothsome, and nicely tinged with olive oil and vinegar – a nice way to open the palate to the flavors to come.

Fluke Crudo – Sea Beans, Watermelon Radish, Finger Lime: A gift from the kitchen, I’ll start out by saying that in general I don’t fancy Fluke – the slight fishiness and snappy texture not really what I prefer in a raw prep – but showing a skilled hand with using sweets and bitters to balance the fish this was about as good as fluke gets. Doused in oil and lightly touched with esplette the dish had just a bit of kick and a whole lot of flavor; if you like flounder or crudo in general it is definitely worth checking out as the quality of the fish was excellent.

King Salmon Arancine with Herb Aioli: At $7 I decided to take a chance on this one despite my general blasé for salmon largely because I’d heard Eliot and Chef Claudio discussing the quality of the salmon and because I love arancini – and as it turns out, it was an excellent choice. Crisp on the exterior with flawlessly prepared Carnaroli rice wrapped around rich salmon each of these three balls was just slightly larger than a golfball and paired nicely with herbal aioli not dissimilar from ranch dressing as well as a paste of what I believe was pimento pepper the flavor was anything but boring salmon, but rather like a southern style salmon croquette with far more nuance thanks to the quality of the rice.

Yellow Watermelon Soup: A palate cleanser before the pastas this small coup of soup was a sort of gazpacho teaming with herbal notes and a slight melon undertone that was both familiar yet unique. Probably not the sort of thing I’d order a big bowl of, but definitely a refresher between the two seafood openers and the two that would follow.

Spaghettini dei Martelli with Ft. Bragg Uni, Dungeness Crab, Breadcrumbs: Seemingly more and more common on menus these days I was happy to learn that noca offers half portions of all their pastas so that I could try this out without filling up too much stomach space (as you’ll see, this actually WAS an issue for once) and for $9 this was still one heft serving of pasta with the thin noodles amply imbued with briny urchin butter, sweet shredded crab, and a spoon full of breadcrumbs for texture. Half the price and just as much flavor as similar presentations elsewhere the only critique I could possibly muster for this dish was that the uni was perhaps a little too thin, losing texture but retaining flavor and thus allowing the high quality crab to steal the spotlight.

Carnaroli Risotto with Blue Prawns, Leeks, Aji Panca: Having already noted the quality of the risotto – the handiwork of a young sous-chef standing in front of me all night – this $10 half-portion of creamy rice unfortunately arrived on the heels of the Spaghettini thus forcing me to make a decision as to which would have to suffer a bit of cooling, but after one bite I knew it was the spaghettini sitting out this dance. Toothsome yet fluffy, spicy but not ‘hot,’ and a perfect melding of the aromatic leeks and snappy sweet prawns this was probably the most rave-worthy dish of the evening. A dish often presented but rarely perfected I’ve been told that risotto is “always” on the menu at noca and if that is the case and it is always this good then I’d suggest there is “always” a reason to visit.

Ricotta Mousse, Sour Cherry: Another one bite intermezzo there is nothing to say about this dish that can’t be guessed from the ingredients – smooth as ice cream and rich as cheesecake they could have served me a bowl for dessert and I’d have been more than contented.

Berkshire Pork Chop – Speck Wrapped, Manchego & Fennel Stuffed, with Cabbage, Beets, Roasted Peaches, and Peach Togarashi Sauce: This is where things got silly. Knowing that I’d ordered a bird for my main course I first thought that this was a mistake, but in reality the only mistake was Eliot sending it with instructions that I should just ‘have a taste.’ Wanting to show of the quality of his sourcing, what I received here was a 12oz chop of Iowa raised hog and with the pork itself tended and easily cut with a butter knife (if not the edge of a fork) Chef Urciuoli opted to gild the proverbial lily by punching a hole in the chop, infusing it with rich Manchego cheese and fennel, then wrapping it in smoky speck before cooking it to a juicy medium well. Enormous in size and savory as hell, the plate was finished with roasted peaches, spicy peach sauce, balsamic, and a bit of beet puree plus shredded cabbage…quite the intermezzo if I do say so myself.

Bubba’s Half Chicken alla Diavola – Prosciutto Wrapped, Cacio di Roma Filled, Swiss Chard, Peperonata: Following the theme of stuffed, wrapped, roasted, and served in large portion this $23 half-chicken was ordered as my ‘main course’ (though arriving after the chop it would be hard to call anything “main” except perhaps a porterhouse) and recommended by Eliot by e-mail even before I arrived it would prove to be anything but “just chicken.” Featuring no-less than half the chicken and roasted to a succulent tan what truly made this dish stand out was the deconstructed ‘cordon bleu’ approach as the creamy ewe’s milk cheese lining the interior oozed forth with each bit while the slight gaminess of the prosciutto added brine to the already crisp skin. Knowing here that peppers atop such a long day of eating would necessitate Tums, Pepcid, or both I sampled lightly of the pepper stew and only wished I’d have been able to enjoy more as the sweet peppers, garlic, and herbs were lovely but at this stage of the game still too much acid and heat even as I picked around the hotter peppers intertwined.

Green Apple Cotton Candy: Declining coffee when Jenny made the offer she went to ready the bill – a bit of a misstep as I surely was not going to skip dessert no matter how full I was – but thankfully Eliot caught her in midstride and ordered two desserts for me…plus a big twirl of this cotton candy, the flavor of a green apple Jolly Rancher spun into an puffy cloud.

Walnut Cake and Compressed Fuji Apple with Dairy Free Vanilla Bean Sorbet and Cider Broth: Described as a dacquoise by the pastry chef but utilizing almond in place of the traditional almonds or hazelnuts this light meringue was served atop compressed balls of apple and finished tableside with apple cider. A light dish in texture but full of flavor I particularly enjoyed the clean finish of the sorbet – an intense vanilla that was heavy on the palate but light on the swallow and serving to meld the walnuts and apples nicely.

Triple Chocolate Flan with Maldon Sea Salt and Praline Rice Crisps: Whatever the walnut cake lacked in heft was more than made up for in this one – a ‘flan’ in name only from my standpoint, though I’m sure some gelatin was involved, this was a proper budino that I’d have finished no matter how full I was. Featuring a top later of dark and a second layer of slightly-less-dark chocolate and topped with just enough salt to create contrast I particularly loved the fact that the bulk of the sweetness was derived from only four little pieces of praline plus a caramelized cookie at the side. Call it a flan, call it a budino, call it pudding, pot du crème, or panna cotta…it is really quite good, and more than enough to share.

Chocolate Chip Shortbread: A parting gift, just in case you haven’t had enough – it was buttery, it was crisp, and at this point I couldn’t help but think “it’s only wafer thin” as I ate it on the car ride home.

The Verdict: To say my experience at noca was the same experience every diner has had/will have there would be a bit naïve – I know for a fact there were special circumstances tilting the tables in my favor, but with that said it isn’t like I was receiving “off item” specials or anything the rest of the room couldn’t order and in that case I’ll simply say that anyone can and should go to noca with the expectation that whatever they order will be made from the finest ingredients and prepared with an adept hand by a skilled chef. Having had a number of good-to-great meals in Phoenix both during my recruitment and since settling here noca is the first place I’ve been where I truly feel like I could become a ‘regular,’ thanks in part to the quality of the food, the ever changing menu, the comparatively low prices, and finally to Mr. Wexler and his team.

Posted in Arizona, Bread Basket, Crab, Dessert, Ice Cream, Italian, noca, Phoenix, Pork, Scottsdale, Tasting Menu

September 8, 2012
11:46 AM
by: Uhockey

RnR / Cartel / Bodega / Italian Restaurant, Phoenix AZ

…having now found some rhythm at work and soon to be (fingers crossed) a new home owner with upcoming high stakes tests, travel, and more on the agenda I decided to take one more Saturday off to tour my new city’s culinary scene on Saturday and with a reservation at Noca secured for dinner thanks to the urging of one Steve Plotnicki the rest of the day fell in line thanks to localdines.com and (again) Phoenix’s most celebrated chef with a few bites between.

Beginning first with breakfast, after a long morning run I made my way to Scottsdale’s RnR; a bit off the grid for my predilections given its popularity as a trendy bar and space “focused on food and fun,” but a space that seemed to have a lot going for in this particular instance in that they had early opening hours, plenty of space, a carb heavy breakfast menu, and (most importantly) The Buckeyes on satellite – not to mention a localdines certificate that would let me eat (essentially) for free. Having heard mixed things from people about everything from the location to the service to the food and the clientele I admittedly went in a skeptic, but what I found left a good impression.

Located on Scottsdale road just past 1st and featuring a 2-story dining patio plus an industrial chic interior I arrived at RnR just after 8:30 and finding ample parking I made my way in to a sign suggesting I could seat myself – a reasonable proposition that left me any number of 4-6 tops with a great view of the HD-Flatscreens as only one other (very hung-over) party was present – and moments later I was greeted by a young man named Fredrich who would act as my server – and a good one at that considering my substantial capacity for caffeine and nearly two hour stay.

Having already researched the menu online and with $30 to spend per my gift card I spent a few minutes perusing the menu and with the game now tuned in (by request) my order was placed I was left to wait – half studying/half watching the game and fully aware that the restaurant was soon to get quite full and quite loud but perhaps slightly less knowing of just how much food I’d ordered as I sipped a bold and smoky brew simply described as “Italian Roast” and fitting that description quite admirably with an ever so slightly ‘over-roasted’ top note that begged for something sweet – and here, sweetness would come in spades.

Now bearing in mind that Fredrich was the only server I interacted with during the course of my meal I will say here that he could have warned me of what was to come but in all reality I’m kind of glad he didn’t because it would have ruined the surprise of the first dish to arrive – a cinnamon roll the size of a hubcap finished off with a gigantic sparkler that simultaneously made me the child in me think awesome while the adult just laughed at the gluttony realizing that there were 4 more dishes to come…and that the whole room was staring at me. Presentation aside, the cinnamon roll itself was additionally quite excellent; the outside ring suffering from a bit of dryness due to the substantial size but the interior warm, flaky, and easily imbued with a whole stick of butter, a half cup of icing, and multiple tablespoons of cinnamon. For those wondering, I ate all but the outer ring – and yeah, I could’ve probably eaten that as well, but the Quails on Main Street looked hungry and I had four more places to eat on the day’s agenda.

Moving on to my other options, proving the adage that bigger is not always better the Chambord French Toast would prove to be an excellent dish well worthy of its “signature” status with a thick slice of egg bread – think challah without braids or brioche but lighter – split and stuffed with Chambord infused cream cheese and topped with raspberries, Gran Marnier, and light crème Chantilly. Still a large dish, but far less so than the cinnamon roll the French Toast was a practice in subtleties as each constituent was present, pleasant, and balanced without overwhelming the others…and proving my little sister’s theory correct once again, a bit of maple syrup certainly didn’t hurt.

For the last item I’d eat during my stay, a single vanilla bean pancake with apple butter would prove to be sole lowlight of the morning as the cake itself was dense rather than fluffy and largely lacking in vanilla flavor, though the apple butter and seasonal berries were quite nice.

Noting here that I would have been more than contented to leave RnR with a favorable impression at this point, with a $30 certificate to spend and the Buckeyes to watch I stuck around sipping coffee for quite some time while picking at the cinnamon roll and once The Ohio State University had assured a win I picked up two items to go – a chocolate chip muffin and maple bacon scone – both baked in house, served warm, and very nicely done with the scone soft and subtle while the muffin was slightly toothsome and studded with dark chocolate…they went great with a cup of coffee later on at Cartel and solidified RnR as a place I’d definitely return for brunch or perhaps dessert to check out the carrot cake (and maybe a second go at the Cinnamon Roll.)

Having already mentioned Cartel, my second visit to the small shop on 5th would be much longer than my first as I spent nearly two hours reading, listening to Who/Hendrix/Stones/Zeppelin/Floyd, and drinking an excellent Toddy of 50/50 Black Market Espresso and Viota. Having obviously grown their fan base and selections (now including breakfast/lunch/dinner/pastries) since my first visit nearly one year prior when I came out for my job interview/recruitment I still love Cartel and stand by my original assessment that both the shop and the beans compare favorably to spots in New York, Chicago, Seattle, and San Francisco – I’ll have to come back some time to check out the pastries and sandwiches.

With plenty of studying beneath my belt as lunchtime approached I next decided to hop across the street to check out Baratin, but with the daily menu not terribly inspiring aside from the dessert I instead popped next door to Bodega to see what local produce and meats were in – and apparently to buy a brioche donut (complete with the hole) and a brownie with dates and pecans plus a bag of FnB blend coffee from The Roastery of Cave Creek. A small store but with a well culled selection of local cheeses and butters, immaculate organic vegetables and various salads, plus proteins like Jidori Chicken and Berkshire Pork from Tender Belly Farms I’ll definitely have to make a return shopping visit in the future.

Moving on to the items I selected, beginning first with the donut I have to say I expected better – sure the brioche was buttery and surprisingly light, but perhaps due to the time of day or maybe because the donuts were stored on an air-exposed rack the overall consistency was simply too dry. Nicely flavored with what seemed to be vanilla tinged cinnamon sugar perhaps I just got a bad selection, particularly as the hole was much better. Waiting for a while to tackle the brownie (after lunch, to be exact,) it would prove to be far more successful than the donut and having the option to select a corner piece I was particularly impressed by the heft of the cocoa notes and how the use of fruit helped to sweeten the brownie without making it overly sweet. Clearly the result of quality ingredients and rustic as can be I will say that if you can resist temptation long enough to get it home a quick second in the microwave to enjoy it warm really helps as the melting pockets of chocolate juxtaposed against date, nut, and cake were lovely.

With Baratin not quite what I had in mind and dinner plans for noca later that evening I decided to check out noca(wich) but en route realized another space I’d been meaning to investigate was close by as well – Chris Bianco’s “Italian Restaurant.” Having now visited both the eponymous pizzeria and sandwich shoppe with results no less than wowing I’d unfortunately been unable to make it out to the most ‘formal’ restaurant in the Bianco empire since arriving in town and although I’d heard mixed things I knew I owed it to myself and to the Chef to find out whether all things Italian/Epicurean are made better in the hands of team Bianco.

Unassumingly set in the back corner of the “Town and Country” mall and demarcated by a sign simply reading “Italian Restaurant” I’ll start out by saying that even if Bianco had chosen to put his name on the space it would have been tricky to find, but the fact that it goes under such a generic moniker almost seems to reinforce the fact that the chef isn’t trying to rest on his name alone, but instead to focus on the food he holds dear. With rustic signage and large glass windows looking into the open kitchen there is not a shred of evidence that this is a “celebrity chef” restaurant and, really, if one didn’t know any better they could walk right by without paying the space a second thought.

With the time just before 2:00pm and lunch hours till 3:00 I walked through the doors to find the interior largely similar to the outdoors and with the kitchen behind a small bar to the right and three other couples seated amidst the ~40 unmatched chairs and old wooden tables to the left the feeling was instantly anything but that of another Arizona shopping center. Working on a small crew of three during the late lunch hours I stood for a moment at the hostess stand before being greeted by the Chef who introduced himself as (I think) Rob and suggested I take any seat I like, eventually settling on a cozy two-top beneath one of the ceiling fans as the room was a bit warmer than I’d prefer (80ish I’d guess.) Settled in and with my books in hand it would not be long before I was greeted by Hillary, the sole server for the afternoon, who presented the 13-item menu.

With a vibe that speaks to a sleepy Italian villa from the shabby chic seating to paintings straight out of the hands of Italian street artists (or in some cases, family members of Chef Bianco) I spent a few moments perusing the menu before Hillary returned and inquiring as to what the daily ragu for the gnocchi entailed I inquired as to whether the dinner version could be accommodated at lunch instead and informed that she would ask the chef I also ordered a sandwich before turning my attention back to my studies as I waited.

With iced water in hand and the chef agreeable to my gnocchi request it would not be long before a plate of Pane Bianco Bread with Pac Sun Olive Oil would arrive from the kitchen and after a short conversation with my server about what I was reading I turned my attention to the crusty yeasted roll that, while good on its own, was vastly improved by ample use of the grassy and slightly fruited oil. A nice bread course and not served in a portion that led to me overdoing it I’d definitely try the $3 grilled option from the menu as an appetizer in the future.

Moving next to my special request, I really did not know what to expect from the preparation as it was simply listed as “Potato Gnocchi with Arizona Sweet Corn and Zoe’s Pancetta” but seeing as how I love all three ingredients I figured it would be good no matter what; little did I know that it would be the best gnocchi I’ve had in my life. Beginning first with the potato dumplings, each of the little balls was hand cut, light as a cloud, and literally melt in the mouth tender even after a quick sear in the pan but moving past the obvious pasta skills of the restaurant what truly put this dish over the top was the ragu – a sort of half roasted corn kernel/half creamed corn imbued with cream and smoky notes from the pork amalgam absolutely teaming with both sweet and savory notes. So simple, so rustic, and yet so perfect I simply cannot say enough about this dish – the one that finally unseeded Marc Vetri’s 2 year stranglehold on the best version of my very favorite pasta.

With the restaurant slowly starting to fill as I swooned over each bite of the gnocchi Hillary kept my water filled and stopped by repeatedly to check in and find out when I was ready for my sandwich and although I was sad to see the gnocchi go I was happy to see the “House-Made Mozzarella with Prosciutto Di Parma and Basil” sandwich arrive in the same vivid glory as the one from a month prior at Pane. Again focused on bucolic simplicity and flawless ingredients it would be hard to find fault in this sandwich or its accompanying fennel and lettuce salad in a light vinaigrette but as good as the Prosciutto was I couldn’t help but think I liked the tomato slightly better…though I bet a version with all three would be stunning.

At this point quite full and with dinner plans that would turn out to be quite extensive Hillary stopped by and boxing up half of my sandwich asked if I’d like dessert – a suggestion I nearly declined until her smiling description of the Asian Pear Crostata sold me that it was something I should probably just go with – and go with it I did, a bargain basement $5 for superlative poached pear served over a rustic butter pastry and topped with vanilla infused cream. Light, delicate, and much like the pasta and the sandwich a perfect evidence of what one should expect from all of Chris Bianco’s restaurants – perfect ingredients largely unmanipulated and prepared just enough to extract maximal flavor.

A charming space with lovely service and food that speaks to everything I love about Italian it would be hard for me to find a single bad thing to say about Italian Restaurant and with an offer to stay and study as long as I liked the only thing that kept me from lingering at 4743 N 20th St was the fact that it was a little too warm for such a full stomach – it made me feel like I needed a nap; yet another sign of a very successful meal. I’ll be back, no doubt, and next time I’m going to run through that pasta menu at length.

Posted in Arizona, Bodega, Bread Basket, Breakfast, Cartel Coffee, Coffee, Dessert, French Toast, Gnocchi, Italian, Italian Restaurant, Pancakes, Phoenix, Pork, RnR, Scottsdale

August 25, 2012
8:50 PM
by: Uhockey

Distrito, Scottsdale AZ

The Gist: http://www.jdvhotels.com/dining/arizona/distrito

The Why: Generally one to seek out European cuisines before those of Latin America or elsewhere I sometimes do crave Mexican cuisine and having been largely impressed by Barrio Café and La Condessa in the past I’d been planning to make it part of my eating agenda for another food-centric Saturday. Glancing through the usual (and unusual) suspects from friends and palates I trust I noted the name Distrito amongst the offerings and it jarred a memory of the time I stood gawking at a line of ~100 trying to get into Jose Garces’ taco and street food shop in Philadelphia. Could this be the same place, I thought – and sure enough, apparently the owners of Joie de Vivre hotels had tapped Garces to head the dining concept at the Saguaro in Old Town Scottsdale.

Having been impressed by the food (if not the company) at Garces’ Amada in Philadelphia and also by the coffee at his eponymous Trading Company I google’d the information and in the process also noted a $20 off certificate through localdines.com that (when paired with a menu that looked excellent for both brunch and dinner) further sweetened the deal.

The Reservation: With opentable reservations available but a rumored ‘breakfast buffet’ menu on the website I next set to contacting the restaurant through their website just to see what the buffet was all about and within an hour received an e-mail from GM Niels Vuijsters explaining the setup and asking if I’d like to make a reservation – an offer I took him up on and after a few other questions (and time changes) set for 8:30 on Saturday night.

The Space: Say what you will about hotel restaurants, Distrito is a fantastic space. Set in a swanky hotel that is a bit difficult to find, and where valet is pretty much the only option (complementary to diners) I walked into the Saguaro to find a rather hip crowd of well dressed (or underdressed and cosmetically enhanced, depending on your viewpoint) falling out of Garces’ Village Whisky (and their halter-tops) as I entered but after making it past the scene I found my friend Aileen waiting near the front desk while the sign for Distrito glowed to the right along with a wall of painted skulls.

Checking in at the hostess stand I was pleasantly surprised to find Distrito 1/3 the volume of the lobby and led swiftly through the dark bar up front (do pay attention to the impressive selection of Tequila and custom stemware) to a roomy 4-top (for 2 people) we were seated amidst perhaps an 80% filled room just next to the kitchen entrance. With lively (but low decibel) music playing overhead and brightly colored tables, chairs, and decorations studding the room Distrito begs your attention – from the clothespin light fixtures and bungee cord dividers to the wall of felt balls and El Dia de los Muertos coffins it is definitely worth a stroll around the space.

The Service: In a word, superb. With Niels stopping by to say hello at the start of the meal and our server Michael taking time not only to explain each dish, but also to assist with my friend’s food allergies and tell us about his time with the Garces empire in Philadelphia we were never for want of anything during the 2:15 meal (except perhaps more stomach capacity) and when I mentioned my fondness for Chef Garces’ GTC coffee Michael, a former employee at the Philadelphia outpost, even went so far as to gift me a bag of the Reserva blend I’d not yet tried. To be fair, even if the food had been awful (*spoiler alert* it wasn’t) I’d be going back to The Saguaro for pounds of coffee for some time to come.

The Food: Chef’s Tasting ($45/pp) – 15 different plates, plus tortillas and chips.

Chips and Salsa Mexicana with Traditional Guacamole topped with Cotija and King Crab (+ Flour Tortillas): This is what happens when you fry up thick and perfect tortilla chips, lightly salt them, and serve them along with cool and creamy avocados kissed with a bit of garlic, a dash of lime, and some cumin before topping it lightly with cheese and heavily with fresh picked crab. Generally not one to attack the chips at a Mexican restaurant my friend’s aversion to avocado led to me eating every bit of this myself – something I’d have probably not done if I knew 14 dishes were to follow (okay, I’m lying, it was delicious and I’d have eaten it all either way.)

Angelica’s ensalada de fresa – Strawberries, spinach, melon, cabrales, serrano-balsamic vinaigrette, poppy seeds: I don’t know who Angelica is, but I get the idea we would get along as each of the aforementioned ingredients here was fresh, flavorful, and simply prepared with a dressing that was at once spicy and subtle. Generally not one to fancy melon I’ll particularly point out the use of the ingredient in this dish as it was a cryovac’d compressed version laced with simple syrup – a perfect foil to a touch of black pepper added to the salad prior to presentation.

Ceviche de Camarones – Shrimp, Spicy Tomato, Avocado, Plantain Chips: Beginning at its base with an avocado espuma and moving upwards to snappy shrimp dressed in boldly spiced tomato sauce before finishing with crunchy sections of plantain and a slice of ripe avocado this savory parfait was light and well balanced – an exploration of textures as much as flavors – and quite stunning to the eye. Knowing full well that (like most things spicy) that this was a dish my mild Midwestern palate would enjoy in the short term but regret later on I tried my best to only eat a few bites but in the end the glass stood empty and I made sure to take some prophylactic antacids before bed.

Hurache de Hongos – Forest Mushroom, Huitlacoche Sauce, Queso Mixto, Black Truffle, Corn Shoot: As my friend could not partake in this dish I wish I could say it was unmemorable, but unfortunately it was the best dish in a night of mostly outstanding cuisine. Beginning first with a pliable soft corn tortilla and then stacking on layer after layer of aromatic mushrooms plus a mixture of cheeses both mild and slightly briny this was a dish that greeted the palate well before the tongue and while the top notes of truffle were certainly notable, it was the intensity of the corn smut sauce that really put the it over the top. Seriously, if Chef Garces or anyone at his restaurant group ever reads this – bottle that stuff up and sell it at the Trading Company.

Queso Fundido – Duck Barbacoa, Poblano Chile Rajas, Queso Mixto: Transitioning from the salads and small plates portion of the menu to the tacos, the first to arrive was a DIY affair with rich and unctuous pulled duck meat buried beneath a layer of still bubbling cheese. Slow cooked and tender with spices including (but certainly not limited to) cumin, oregano, cloves, garlic at the forefront plus plenty of heat from the mixed pepper this was an ample serving to say the least but arriving with plenty of fresh tortillas it didn’t even last long enough to cool off completely.

Pollo – Chicken Ropa Vieja, Queso Fresco, Crema, Radish: One of a quartet of tacos, and the weakest of the four in my opinion, featured tender chicken finely shredded and mixed with onions and tomatoes on a dainty flour tortilla. Sharp and acidic but nicely balanced by the combination of cheese and slightly bitter radish it was a good two-bite dish, but not nearly as memorable as the others.

Mahi-Mahi – Chipotle Remoulade, Avocado, Red Cabbage, Lime: Having heard that this was ‘the best dish on the menu’ by the valet as I parked the car I have to admit I’d probably not have ordered this dish a la carte simply because I’ve never once had Dolphinfish that wowed me…and that would have been a mistake. Featuring the mildly flavored fish lightly fried inside a delicate plantain batter the key to this dish was actually the juxtaposition of its accoutrements – the lightly pickled cabbage foiled by the creamy avocado while a light touch of lime brought all the flavors to a point.

Carnitas – Pulled Pork, Black Beans, Pineapple salsa: One of two pork tacos – and the first of three swine based dishes – this dish married tender shredded flesh and crispy skin with a nice balance of earthy beans and sweet salsa quite nicely. Served with a lime to add extra citrus if desired I refrained on my first bite, instead allowing a touch of bitter from the shredded radish and jicama to come to the fore and on my second bite a small spritz – a good choice that served to bring out a bit of carnitas’ smoky notes.

Chorizo – Refried Beans, Tomato, Radish: A slight modification in the menu offering to accommodate my dining buddy’s shrimp allergy brought this dish to our table and while I gather it would have probably been better with the camarones this overstuffed taco was still quite excellent as the spicy chorizo was wet met by the tart green tomatoes and creamy frijoles refritos.

Cochinita Pibil – Berkshire Pork Shoulder, Achiote, Pineapple BBQ: For our ‘main course’ of the evening a large bowl of smoky pork would arrive with an ample description from Michael and with aromatics abound I only wished I had saved more room. Reportedly roasted for nearly eight hours wrapped in banana leaves and subsequently braised with achiote seeds, oregano, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, sour orange, and more this was the sort of Mexican cuisine we simply don’t have back in the Midwest – incredibly complex, nicely nuanced, and literally melt-in-the-mouth tender…the sort of dish that makes me want to explore the region’s cuisine more and more.

Espancas Con Manzana – Garlic Spinach, Granny Smith Apple, Toasted Peanut, Anejo Tequila: The first of three side dishes to arrive with the Cochinita and certainly the most complex this large bowl featured a lot of disparate flavors and textures nicely melded by the aged tequila. A bit too garlicky and filling for so late in the meal I admittedly only ate a few bites of this but along with the remainer of the Cochinita a box was packed up for Aileen to take home, certainly enough for a light meal.

Plantano Y Crema – Sweet Plantain, Queso Fresco: A dish that Aileen had been hoping would make an appearance on the tasting this was probably the most ‘simple’ dish of the evening yet at the same time it was also one of the best as the still young plantains were so lightly breaded that it was almost as though the coating was simply a product of caramelizing the intrinsic sugars. A sweet dish without being overly so we both additionally commented on how nicely the light cream served to smooth out the more saline notes of the cheese thus allowing it to compliment rather than overwhelm.

Arroz Con Crema – Creamy Poblano Corn Rice: Think rice pudding but make it intensely savory with plenty of spice – now make it so rich and texturally refined that all but the best risottos would pale in comparison. At $5 this is the steal of the menu and I’m disappointed even now that I couldn’t eat every bite of the cast iron pot.

Tres Leches – Cornmeal Cake, Roasted Pineapple, Coconut Sorbet: Moving to the sweets we would unfortunately find the first sub-par dish of the evening – a testament to the first thirteen dishes without a doubt, but a disappointment none the less. Generally a fan of tres leches cake this presentation would unfortunately fail in the very thing I’d hope would make it unique; the use of cornmeal simply dried things out rather than adding texture or nuance. Disappointed a bit but heartened a bit by the high quality of the sorbet which when taken in the same bite as a piece of cake actually worked quite nicely I would like to go back and try the Dulce de Leche French Toast (on the brunch menu) at some point, but I’d probably take a pass on this version for future visits.

El Fuerte – Flourless Chocolate Cake, Spicy Peanuts, Chocolate Peanut Butter Mousse, Vanilla Bean Flan, XO Caramel, Espresso Ice Cream: Reportedly a dish for two and although I’d have questioned this statement under normal circumstances it was not only enough for two at the end of such a long meal, but after taking my first bite definitely more than one person should rationally eat. Essentially three squares loosely stacked and topped with GTC Espresso Ice Cream and candied peanuts dusted with chili before a tableside pour of caramel spiked (liberally) with what I believe was Patron XO Café this was one rich dessert. Dense on the bottom and light on the top with subtle differences in each bite depending on the various components sampled both Aileen and I worked on this dish slowly and bite after bite it seemed neither of us could stop until I finally threw in the napkin…at least until Aileen left a single bite on the plate and I took the bait, recollected my spoon, and finished it off.

The Verdict: While some may piss n’ moan that “Mexican Street Food” should be served on the streets of Mexico using less esoteric ingredients than Berkshire Pigs, Hudson Valley Ducks, and Black Truffles I’ll simply beg to differ and continue my belief that any cuisine can benefit from top quality ingredients in the hands of a skilled and passionate kitchen. Sure some may question the authenticity of Garces’ restaurants or the choice location in a fancy hotel but to those of us who value things like impeccable service, comfortable environs, and the ‘experience’ of fine dining at a veritable bargain basement price I whole heartedly recommend giving Distrito a look – along with Bayless’ Michelin starred Topolobampo it is the best Mexican food I’ve had to date.

Posted in Arizona, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Distrito, Food, Garces Trading Company, Phoenix, Pork, Scottsdale, Tasting Menu, Truffle

August 25, 2012
3:30 PM
by: Uhockey

Davanti Enoteca, Scottsdale AZ

The Gist: http://www.davantiscottsdale.com/

The Why: I’d always meant to visit the Davanti Enoteca in Chicago but my only visit was under somewhat strained circumstances – and when I say “strained” I mean my waistline in that I’d eaten breakfast at Bleeding Heart Bakery, Lunch at Sun-Wah BBQ, a tasting menu dinner at Chris Nugent’s last night at Les Nomades, and an impromptu 3-hour affair at Achatz and Beran’s Next – Childhood. It was only when I was walking out the door of Next that a friend texted me to ask if I wanted to meet up at Davanti – an offer I took them up on, but given the heavy day of eating and late hour a place where I only sipped on a glass of rose and tried a few bites of pasta, a spoon of polenta, and a bite of pate; I promised myself I’d someday return…at least until I found out Davanti was coming to Scottsdale where Scott Harris would tap locally respected Chef Peter DeRuvo to head up the concept.

The Reservation: Generally not a difficult reservation even in the Windy City I didn’t assume a restaurant three weeks old would be difficult to get into – especially at 3:30pm – and as it turned out I was correct. A sort of impromptu meet-up with a local who reached out to me through my blog I arrived at 3:10 and after first stopping in to check out the space I decided to wander next-door to the Scottsdale Marketplace until my new friend arrived just after 3:30; with only two couples seated we were offered any other seat in the house and I opted for #25 for no other reason than that it had the best lighting.

The Space: Taken directly from the website – “with rustic exposed brick walls, re-purposed farm wood and communal tables, Davanti Enoteca takes its cues from the small villages of Italy,” and while that may indeed be true, I get the idea that the small villages of Italy aren’t jamming 80’s cult classics overhead on an infinity loop. Generally not one to nit-pick a restaurant’s style – something that Davanti actually has plenty of from the bucolic lounge up front to the copper pots and wrought iron fixtures strategically placed throughout the room – all I can say is that during a 110 minute seating I should not hear Soft Cell’s Tainted Love three times…once would be quite enough.

The Service: Unlike space and music, I do tend to nit-pick service and while I realize that some service issues are common at old and new places alike I’ll simply say the service at Davanti Enoteca needs a bit of work before, specifically with regard to plate presentations (lacking description,) timing (partially a kitchen problem I’m sure,) and most of all understanding the concept of being present without being a hassle. Perhaps an effect of delivering too many plates at much (the timing issue) or perhaps simply in an attempt to be attentive there were no less than five times during the course of our meal where either myself or my friend would stop to set our fork down only to have someone appear to attempt to take our plate – in one instance a dish still more than 1/3 full; to say the least it was haphazard and felt rushed…and when you pair that with the young man who took the liberty of actually breaking the yolk of an egg for us only to later actively place his hand on a plate that we were still working on it was downright annoying.

The Food: 8 plates ranging from $7 Vassi to the $20 Chef’s whim.

Chicken Liver Pate with Poached Cherries and Tuscan Toast: To anyone who knows me this was an obvious choice and served in a flip top jar for $7 along with a pile of lightly oiled toast it was every bit as good as I would have hoped. Dense and slightly rougher cut than a true mousse but rife with a mineral tinge below the liver’s characteristic sapor the cherries served as a brilliant foil to the fat and easily enough for two this would have been the deal of the menu if not for the daily special.

Focaccia di recco – ligurian style baked focaccia with fresh soft cow cheese and local honeycomb: Perhaps the most consistently raved dish from both the Chicago location and from local gourmands who’d already visited Davanti Scottsdale the first time I’d heard of this dish was actually from our server at Avec and although slightly different in texture and composition this Ligurian classic marrying crisp focaccia with a stracchino/mascarpone blend was every bit as memorable. Taking an alternate route to Avec’s density and utilizing local honeycomb (an extra $2) as opposed to savory notes to balance the soft cheese’s higher lactic acid content I’d be hard pressed to say who does it better, but at $18 I can only say this dish is worth the money even if it seems ‘simple.’

Roasted corn + walnuts + pecorino + arugula + wild mushrooms: Wanting to sample from each part of the menu this choice from the insalate was recommended by our server and although I would have preferred to taste it warm (simply too many items on the table at once, as noted above) it was quite good at room temperature as well. Essentially the results of high quality ingredients paired carefully this was a dish about texture and flavor above anything else and with the mushrooms and corn each lightly cooked there was a great interplay of natural sweetness and earth all set off by the lightly applied cheese.

Truffle egg toast + fontina + asparagus: I’ll start out by saying it wasn’t as good as the incredible famous version at ‘ino…but it was pretty damned close. Oddly a fan of eggs at all other meals despite my propensity for sweets at breakfast this “toad in a hole” style presentation featured nothing more than a dense piece of brioche topped with a thick slice of young fontina lightly kissed with truffle oil and black pepper plus julienned asparagus on the plate beneath; it was simple, it was rich, and it was the one dish I really wished would have arrived separated from the others so I could truly enjoy it as opposed gulping down my half for fear of it getting cold or soggy.

Risotto Carbonara – Italian rice + pancetta + sweet peas + parmigiano + farm egg yolk: The start of our second round of dishes would start out with our overzealous server plunging a spoon into our egg yolk at tableside after telling me the “chef would get mad” if he did not mix it. Coming from a restaurant that felt the need to explain to me what ‘small plates’ means at the start of the meal I guess Davanti is still shooting to accommodate the lowest common denominator despite the progressive menu and after getting over the annoyance of being told what to do by an 18 year old I enjoyed this dish a lot – the slightly toothsome Arborio nicely paired with saline notes of cheese and pancetta but finding a much needed vegetal sweetness in the fresh peas.

Gnocchi di Ricotta – eggplant + roasted tomatoes + basil + mozzarella: Detailed as gnocchi on the menu this was the low point of Davanti’s offerings for both myself and my friend and given my love for these pillows of pasta under most circumstances I was quite unhappy to find these fork-formed dumplings far less soft than anticipated – some of them almost rubbery and if I’m not mistaken tinged with semolina making them more a pasta gnochetti than the true potato/cheese dumplings annotated. Decent but decidedly not what I’d anticipated the ragu of roasted tomatoes, fibrous eggplant, and fresh basil definitely helped but compared to the gnocchi at Pomo earlier in the day this was quite disheartening.

Chef’s Whim – Confit Roasted Half Duck + Sour Cherry + Mascarpone Polenta + Candied Pecans + Radish + Endive: I’d wanted to try a pizza, but when our server told us the Saturday “Chef’s whim” (announced at 4:00 on Saturdays) I fortunately changed my mind – and I say thankfully not only because duck is my favorite protein, but because this was one of the best duck preparations I have ever tasted. Priced at a bargain $20 and featuring a half-duck split down the center served over a bed of mascarpone polenta and Amarena cherries whose texture would rival the finest gelato this was the sort of rustic preparation I’d hoped for walking in the door. Intense and meaty with crispy skin giving way to tender flesh each bite of this dish was savored as much as the last and with sweetness from the cherries and pecans met by the bitters of the radish and endive the dish never felt ‘heavy’ at all. Honest to God, ff this is on the menu it is a must order – I’ve paid twice as much for far less impressive fowl at any number of ‘top tier’ restaurants.

Chocolate Budino – Chocolate Pudding + Amaretto Cookie + Toasted Marshmallow: Un-wowed by the standard dessert menu and myself with dinner plans three hours later we’d originally considered skipping dessert until our server told us the “Chef’s Whim” dessert of the day was a budino – on par with bread pudding for ‘must order’ status for myself – and with a dense pudding of semi-sweet chocolate at its base subsequently topped with a warm amaretto cookie plus light meringue quickly toasted under the salamander this dish also wowed. Thankfully small in portion but huge in flavor I’d place this dish alongside the focaccia, egg toast, and duck as must orders – next time with coffee.

The Verdict: Service and music issues aside, Davanti Enoteca is a great addition to the local dining scene and although much of the menu is cribbed directly from West Taylor St. the dishes where DeRuvo was allowed to flex his muscles were without a doubt the strongest of the afternoon. Perhaps the gnocchi did not live up to expectations and would have been better sold as a gnochetti and maybe some would argue that the focaccia is a bit overpriced priced at $18 (ingredient-wise maybe, but taste-wise it is worth every penny) but all things being equal my friend and I walked out the door for $60/pp after tax and a more than generous tip for a meal featuring 7 good-to-great dishes, particularly a duck dish I’d put on the same level with versions at Gagnaire, Eleven Madison Park, and L’Arpege that cost nearly as much as (or more than) our whole meal. If anyone from Davanti is reading – put the duck on the permanent menu, add a few songs to your Ipod playlist, fix up the service, and I’m pretty sure you’ll have a hit…though I’m pretty sure I’ll be back either way.

Posted in Arizona, Davanti Enoteca, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Italian, Phoenix, Pork, Scottsdale, Truffle

August 25, 2012
12:47 PM
by: Uhockey

‘Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana, Scottsdale AZ

The Gist: http://pomopizzeria.com/

The Why: As part of a planned food-day out in Phoenix and Scottsdale I’d already filled breakfast and dinner slots with both food and friends, but as always lunch remained the last decision to be made – a decision made slightly more difficult in that I’d asked the Practice Administrator at my new place of work to meet up so that we could brainstorm. Never one to ‘settle’ for subpar food, even during a business meeting, and with my colleague well aware of this after a meal at Binkley’s in September 2011 I tossed out some options based on my tastes and he immediately jumped on ‘Pomo largely due to its convenient location for both of us on North Scottsdale Road.

Notably the only APN and VPN certified restaurant in a city where impressive pizzas abound ‘Pomo has won numerous local awards and with a strong adherence to Neapolitan traditions including the use of imported “00” Molino Caputo flour subjected to 24+ hour slow leavening plus 950F cooking temperatures in a handmade brick wood burning oven direct from Naples I had little doubts of the quality of the pies at ‘pomo the moment I read their credentials, but what intrigued me most about the spot was their list of primi, pasta, insalate, and desserts – things one generally does not associate with a place so devoted to the quality of its pies.

The Reservation: With the large space opening at 11am for lunch and our planned time of arrival set to be noon on a lazy Saturday I did not assume reservations to be necessary and arriving at 11:30 my notion was confirmed – two couples were seated near the entrance while a family of four, speaking exclusively Italian, sat along the back wall.

The Space: Let me start by saying the faux-Italian exterior is a huge turnoff – it reminds me of Olive Garden or Carraba’s and it is entirely unnecessary – but once you get inside the setting of ‘Pomo is actually quite sleek as black tables sans tablecloths, an open kitchen with the tile oven on full display, plus a small bar complete with televisions proudly displaying Serie A football show on the left half of restaurant while a long wall of plush leather seating, dark woods, and floor to ceiling depiction of an Italian street scene dominate the right. Featuring a sort of compress and expand entryway leading to high ceilings and white walls with light Italian tunes playing overhead ‘Pomo feels like it is trying without overcompensating and although I imagine it can get loud with a crowd it was plenty quiet for normal conversation (and for myself to read until my guest arrived) throughout the course of my 120 minute visit.

The Service: Taking a somewhat atypical approach to the afternoon by arriving early, staying late after settling the bill, ordering items ‘to-go’, and then opening a second tab for dessert our server – identified on the bill as ‘Cricket’ – performed quite admirably. Waters were filled at all times, lemon added when requested, and all items were delivered piping hot from the kitchen. With the server to table ratio 1:1 throughout much of the stay and the kitchen spending most of their downtime watching the match on the television we were never for want of anything and both diners and staff seemed to be in good spirits, casually conversing with everything flowing smoothly. Davanti Enoteca should send each of their servers next door to ‘Pomo in the coming weeks, to say the least.

The Food: 2 Primi, 2 Pizzas, 1 Dessert to stay, 1 Dessert to go, plus a Pizza to go for my colleague’s wife delivered from the oven mere moments before he walked out the door.

Crocchette Pugliesi: With my dining partner interested primarily in the pizza I was left to decide on opening courses and although the focaccia and arancini sounded tempting it was this pair of fluffy nuggets that won me over; and thankfully they did not disappoint. Featuring lightly whipped potatoes at outside edge with a lightly crisp coating each of these delectable bites burst with flavor as the interior housed a dense composition of house made Fior di Latte and Prosciutto Cotto. Served alongside stewed San Marzano tomatoes and a light salad of grape tomatoes and spinach each bite was fresh and balanced – my only complaint being that there wasn’t a half-dozen more.

Gnocchi alla sorrentia: Quite simply, good gnocchi is what every starch should aspire to be in my world and these gnocchi were sublime – each small dumpling so light that it threatened to float off the plate. A dish so often over/under-done each of these fluffy balls was simply adorned with simple stewed tomatoes, torn basil, creamy Fior di Latte, and a light dusting of Parmigiano Reggiano before a quick trip to the oven produced a lightly caramelized crust. If you go, this is a must order – and if I go back I’d love to see if they’d be willing to supplement the Bufala in place of the Fior di Latte.

Bufala DOP: Less the gourmand than myself but still knowledgeable of food it was suggested by my dining partner that he was going to order the Regina Margherita but more than happy for my suggestions an upsell to the Bufala DOP took little coaxing and while I cannot vouch to the quality of the Regina I can say without a doubt that the $3 fee was worth every penny as the weekly imported Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP Napoli’s tangy funk and ethereal mouthfeel was notable in every bite. Moving next to the crust (offered cut or un-cut by the kitchen in order to stick with tradition,) slow kneaded and just crisp enough on the edges to keep the rim steady and the center wet I particularly enjoyed the low smoky notes and although a bit more blister would have been ideal the simple garnish of unsweetened San Marzanos, Basil, and a touch of Parmigiano Reggiano was precisely what I’d hoped for walking in the door.

Tirolese: With my colleague ordering the pizza I’d have selected I decided to be a bit more progressive and turned to an equally well constructed pie featuring the same base but subsequently topped with Fior di Latte, Brie, and Speck Alto Adige IGP – a unique imported leg ham first salted and air-dried and then smoked, the flavor harkening notes of sweet, savory, and smoky all at once and perfectly balanced to the acid of the tomatoes by the creamy pairing of cheeses. Most times a pizza purist when visiting a Neapolitan spot I have to say I may have enjoyed this one even more than the Bufala, though perhaps that simply speaks to the quality of the translucent layer of pork on top.

Semifreddo Alla Mandorle: My friend having now departed with an Ortolana in hand for his wife (and the check) I decided that given the quiet and quality of service I’d stick around to study for a bit and after perhaps an hour of sipping water and reading I decided to test the sweet half of ‘Pomo’s menu with their ‘signature’ dessert – one of the few not present in a rotating pastry case near the bar. No stranger to semifreddo but having never seen it delivered quite like this what arrived to my table was exquisite – a sort of ‘ice cream sandwich’ but without the ice cream or sandwich. Featuring a delicate frozen mousse – think whipped cream but frozen – stuffed with chopped figs cooked in honey and rolled in crushed Amaretto Cookie this dessert was the very definition of light and refreshing, a fact furthered by a light drizzle of reduced strawberry and honey plus powdered sugar that made it sweet, but not overly so.

Millefoglie: While I could have (and perhaps should have) been contented by one dessert the fact that the menu contained no less than six which interested me led to a spontaneous decision to get one to go – or at least to go as far as the mall where I’d finish it an hour later as a friend contacted me to meet up at Davanti Enoteca for more food related fun at 3:30. Described by some as an Italian Mille Feuille and by others as the hand-held equivalent of a Napoleon this Millefoglie was quite different from the versions I’d experienced in Boston and Philadelphia, but with buttery puff pastry layers juxtaposing layers of pastry cream as well as cream Chantilly plus ample notes of honey and Amarena cherry it would be hard to say this wasn’t the best Millefoglie I’ve ever had. Far more dense than the semifreddo or a traditional mille-feuille but far less so than most napoleons I’d be hard pressed to describe a dessert I’ve had that is similar in flavor, though the overall texture was something like croissant meets baklava. Like the gnocchi it is a must order, though I would not recommend attempting to eat it by hand, as I did for lack of fork.

The Verdict: While some may contest that VPN certification is meaningless and I would tend to agree, if that is what it takes for ‘Pomo to get people past the sub-par exterior and into the restaurant then I am all for it. While perhaps not the best pizza in the Phoenix metropolitan area due to a little place called Bianco the pies at ‘Pomo stand up to the best in all but a handful of cities and when you take into account the strength of the rest of the menu I think it likely ranks amongst the ten best Neapolitan joints I’ve been lucky enough to visit.

Posted in 'Pomo, Arizona, Dessert, Gnocchi, Italian, Phoenix, Pizza, Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana, Pork, Scottsdale

August 25, 2012
7:33 AM
by: Uhockey

Dottie’s True Blue Cafe, Scottsdale AZ

The Gist: http://dotties.biz/scottsdale-az/

The Why: Because for the last five years I’ve lived in the culinary wasteland of Columbus Ohio and every time I traveled to a place like this (https://endoedibles.com/?p=122) I thought to myself “why don’t we have anything this good closer to home” – now I live in Scottsdale and apparently we do. That’s right, one of my five all-time-favorite breakfasts with an outpost less than ten minutes from my door – it’s amazing it took me this long to visit.

The Reservation: Unlike the San Francisco landmark, Dottie’s Scottsdale opens at 7:30am and if you arrive around that time you just might be the first one there. No absurd lines, no standing around in the chilly Bay Area mist, just a sun-lit patio and ample parking nearby.

The Space: The biggest difference (along with the line) between the San Francisco outpost and the one in Scottsdale is the interior – large, bright, and well lit as opposed to a 1950’s kitchen with a single large stove, heavily decorated refrigerator, bar, and 12 tables. Still with an open kitchen and plenty of kitschy knickknacks (including different salt and pepper shakers for each table) I’ll admit the desert Dottie’s doesn’t have that same cozy feel as the original, but with leather benches, wooden chairs, and that same funky chalkboard full of specials I can happily forgo ‘cozy’ for comfortable.

The Service: Much like the original, the service at Dottie’s Scottsdale is far better than it needs to be. Professional and courteous but also casual and hip our server Terri greeted us promptly, offered us a seat anywhere we liked, and had water and coffee filled to the brim at all times. Now admitting here that for >80% of our hour long breakfast we were the only customers at Dottie’s True Blue Café the average customer’s mileage may vary, but all things the same we were very well taken care of – the owner (the brother of the man in charge at the original) even stopping by twice during the meal to chat and see how things were going.

The Food: 3 pastries off the chalkboard, one chalkboard special, one menu item, and one gift from the kitchen plus a whole lot of coffee.

Coffee: The same nutty blend served at the SF Flagship and refilled even more astutely I particularly appreciated the low acidity, rich body, and availability of all 3 artificial sweeteners plus sugar. At $2.25 for a cup that is literally bottomless I could see this being dangerous if I went on a day when I was with my books to read…I wonder if they have Wi-Fi?

Blueberry Cornmeal Hotcakes: At $10.95 this is the menu item I would have ordered during my visit to the original had the Chocolate Chip Pumpkin French toast not been a chalkboard special and true to the rumors the hotcakes did not disappoint. Golden and crisp on the exterior with a slight bit of grit to the interior crumb each of the three cakes was packed with bursting blueberries and slightly buttery even without the addition of extra. Served with a side of pure maple syrup (the sort they charge you extra for at Matt’s) if there is a better pancake in the Valley I’d be surprised.

Cinnamon Roll French Toast with a side of Grilled Ham: A $12.95 chalkboard special requested without the cream cheese icing my dining buddy this lovely dish featured a house made cinnamon roll cut lengthwise, then sliced vertically, and finally dredged in rich vanilla batter before a trip to the skillet. Golden on the outside, cinnamon sugar caramelized within, and served with a bowl of fresh fruit plus natural maple syrup and grilled Niman Ranch ham I’m pretty sure it would have been better with icing, but it was pretty darn good without while the ham was rich, moist, and suitably smoky without being too saline.

Southwest Biscuits and Gravy: A gift from the kitchen described jokingly by the owner as “something you won’t find in San Francisco” this small sample of one of the chalkboard specials featured a rich and flaky biscuit topped with smooth gravy rife with jalapenos and red peppers plus chorizo. Clearly not a dish terribly concerned with being subtle I really enjoyed the texture of the biscuit and although my modest Midwestern tongue needed copious water (and coffee) to quell the heat I actually enjoyed how the bright acidity of the peppers helped to keep the gravy from being too thick and heavy.

Cinnamon Roll: At $3.50 this cinnamon roll would prove to be good, but when compared to the rest of the meal really nothing special. Served warm with the frosting slowly cascading down the sides of the buttery bun it is not that there was anything ‘wrong’ with this dish – it just was not nearly as good as the French toast interpretation even though it was equally amply endowed with butter and cinnamon.

Blueberry White Chocolate Streusel Muffin: One of two daily muffins and perhaps the steal of the morning at $2.50 this dense muffin was not only large in size but huge on flavor. Served halved and warmed with a bit of cornmeal interspersed in the otherwise rich and buttery batter the highlight of this muffin was the smoothness of the white chocolate and how it melded with the rich streusel topping to form an ample foil to the sweet and tender berries. One of the better blueberry muffins I’ve had in recent memory it took restraint to not order the chocolate chip coconut variation on the muffin as well.

Peach Cobbler Crumble Cake with Whipped Cream: While I guess I could fault the service here in that they originally forgot the whipped cream I cannot and will not do so because in all reality the addition of house made whipped cream to this $5.50 slab of cake was the very definition of gilding the proverbial lily. Beginning with a batter as light as angel food yet unmistakably imbued with plenty of butter and sweetened local peaches what truly made this cake stand out was a tan ripple I can best describe as cinnamon butter cake running from edge to edge and a lightly toasted topping equally rife with the aromatic spice and just enough sugar to caramelize. Bite for bite this was probably my favorite dish of the morning, but showing a bit of restraint given the day of eating yet to come I was glad to let some of it go home with my friend – to call the portion ‘generous’ would be an understatement to say the least.

The Verdict: Bearing in mind my obvious predilection to breakfast sweets over breakfast savories and the fact that I’d been told all the Bay Area’s recipes had been ported over faithfully I had no doubts that walking into Dottie’s Scottsdale that I would like the food; what surprised me most was how much I enjoyed the scene and the service – both equally well carried over from San Francisco. Having said before that Dottie’s (along with Griddle Café in Los Angeles) is one of the very few breakfasts I’d actually wait an hour in line for and living in a city where it seems everyone is willing to wait hours in line for Matt’s Big Breakfast I personally see Dottie’s True Blue Café as a sort of breakfast ideal – food good enough to wait in line for, but without the line. I’ll definitely be back – and likely at the exclusion of wasting a moment of a Bay Area vacation time or waiting in line at Matt’s ever again.

Posted in Arizona, Breakfast, Coffee, Cornbread, Dessert, Dottie's True Blue Cafe, Food, French Toast, Pancakes, Phoenix, Pork, Scottsdale

August 11, 2012
8:33 PM
by: Uhockey

Christopher’s, Phoenix AZ

The Gist: http://christophersaz.com/

The Why: I guess I could pretend that the fact that Christopher Gross is a former Food and Wine Best New Chef winner and Beard Award winner for Best Chef Southwest were the primary reasons for my interest in his “Christopher’s and Crush Lounge” at the Biltmore but in all reality these things were only secondary in importance to the fact that Chef Gross’ restaurant has no less than a half dozen dishes featuring foie gras on the menu. Add in the fact that Chef Gross, probably the only chef in Phoenix to actually cook with Julia Child, was offering a special prix fixe menu celebrating Ms. Child’s 100th anniversary plus the chance to dine with my friend Aileen and her sister (thus sampling the majority of the menu) and I couldn’t really think of a better way to spend the evening.

The Reservation: Made by Aileen via opentable two days prior for 3 people at 6:30pm.

The Space: While I have heard some complain that Christopher’s is inside a swanky shopping mall I counter that commentary by noting that the best restaurant in the United States shares the same dubious distinction and with Chef Gross visible front and center of the open kitchen with wrap around bar I was impressed by Christopher’s the moment I walked in. Bathed in light from the outside at first and then dissipating to a romantic glow as the sun set both the lounge and the dining room at Christopher’s have a modern but refined feel with white tablecloths, fine service ware, and comfortable seating abound while the walls are minimally adorned with single flowers, wooden art, and mirrors. Full throughout most of the evening – largely a middle-age or older crowd – but with good spacing between tables the noise level was modest and even seats juxtaposing the kitchen and restroom area (complete with fantastic waterfall sink) were spared excessive noise.

The Service: Arriving moments after the two ladies who were already seated when I walked in the doors I was led promptly to the table and handed off to our captain, James, en route and as soon as I met him I knew we were in good hands. Pleasant, descriptive, whimsical, and efficient James did a great job of working with my friend’s allergies while additionally being sure water was always filled and bread was replenished as necessary – an admirable feat as he was probably the only captain on our half of the dining room thus quarterbacking at least four back servers working perhaps twenty tables without ever missing a beat.

The Food: Three 3-course prix-fixe meals, bread service, plus an a la carte appetizer, side, and dessert.

Baguette and Salted Butter: Present on the table before I even arrived the bread was as good as one would expect at a French bistro in France, though not quite as lovely as a warm baton from one of Paris’ best bakeries. Crusty and thick on the exterior with a medium crumb the butter was also quite excellent – a soft and smooth cow’s milk blend with subtle sweetness topped with sea salt.

Wood Oven Pizza with Foie Gras, Andouillette, Boudin Noir & Goat Cheese: An 8-slice oblong pie clearly focused on decadence I must say that I was hesitant to order pizza in a French restaurant but much like some of the shock and awe creations at Picard’s Au Pied du Cochon in Montreal this $26 dish worked astonishingly well. Beginning first with the lightly charred crust – sturdy and smoky with a great chew – and moving next to rich and lightly brined chevre I was immediately impressed by the quality of the base and moving on to the trio of offal things only got better as the creamy melting liver, briny blood sausage, and onion-laced crumbly pork all melded into a complex flavor that was at once mineral and pungent but also slightly sweet thus preventing it from being overly rich (even if it was entirely audacious.)

Terrine of Mousse of Foie Gras served w/ Brioche: My first course of the prix fixe was a nearly 2 ounce slice of creamy foie gras topped with Hawaiian black sat served with golden brioche, greens lightly dressed in vinaigrette, and three dots of reduced Balsamic. A very traditional preparation, particularly next to the pizza, this was my third foie gras course of the day and although the least ‘unique,’ a very smooth and well sourced product served in surprising portion for a $40 prix-fixe.

Escargot en Croute w/ Garlic Herb Butter: Another appetizer selection and as a lucky recipient of one of the six snails this was my favorite of the three first courses we received as the rich burgundy snails were cooked to a melt-in-the-mouth texture while an ample topping of thyme and rosemary tinged garlic butter sat beneath crispy puff pastry adding a more butter, but also a lightly crunchy textural element. Another French Bistro classic done very well – Julia Child would have approved.

Frogs Legs with Garlic Herb Sauce and Sauteed Spinach: The third appetizer, and another shocking portion given the price, this plate consisted of three large and plump amphibian hind-quarters lightly coated with egg and flour before a pan searing rendered them slightly crisp yet entirely juicy. Suffering neither from too much salt nor too much of the oily sapor that sometimes maligns frogs legs and served over sautéed spinach with garlic, parsley, and white wine there was a lot of balanced flavor on this plate and all of it was excellent.

Pied du Cochon with Brussels Sprouts, Mustard Seed, and Smoked Bacon: For our main courses Aileen opted for the Steak Frites while her sister chose the Dover Sole Meuniere and while I didn’t taste the former but quite liked the simplicity of the later I was more than happy with my choice of two flaky pastry shells stuffed full of crispy trotters alongside caramelized sprouts and a sauce of smoked bacon and fresh mustard seeds. Intense and savory, well balanced with the pungency of the sprouts, and just a touch of earthy heat from the mustard this was another bistro style dish slightly reimagined that impressed even despite my overall distaste for mustard, an ingredient that here acted to enhance the salty pork rather than mute it as is sometimes the case.

Daily Gnocchi with Onions, Belly Bacon, Taleggio, and Cream: For $8 this was an absolute steal of a side dish as there were no less than fifteen tender dumplings swimming in a pool of bubbling cheese and cream tinged with bacon and onions. Admittedly getting full at this point in the day, particularly as I’d eaten 3/4 of the pizza myself plus a few slices of bread I made sure I finished each dumpling, particularly those where the cheese had browned to form a bit of crunch, but I still regret sending a good portion of the creamy cheese mixture back to the kitchen rather than applying it to another slice of baguette.

Gateau Marjolaine with Dark Chocolate Sorbet: For Aileen’s dessert she opted for the Gateau Marjolaine after confirming no allergens and paired with a tuille sporting impressively bitter dark chocolate sorbet and a fresh strawberry the cake featuring alternating layers of chocolate ganache, almond meringue, milk chocolate, vanilla, and coffee cremeaux would be no less impressive than the sorbet. At times sweet and at others bitter with a creamy mouthfeel punctuated by a slight crunch from the meringue this was simply a delightful dessert that would have only been better if it had been paired with coffee.

Profiteroles with Vanilla Bean Gelato, Chocolate Ice Cream, and Dark Chocolate Sorbet plus Chocolate Sauce: Another high quality interpretation of a bistro classic, the other lady at the table opted for the profiteroles and with the chocolate ice cream I tasted nicely textured and closer to milk chocolate than the sorbet while the chocolate sauce was thick, rich, and intense I personally felt the choux itself could have been a little more crisp, though perhaps some of the ‘sog’ was related to being in Arizona where even in a nicely air conditioned restaurant ice cream tends to melt quickly.

Tarte Tatin with Vanilla Bean Gelato: My prix fixe dessert, and another enormous portion, was this rustic apple tarte tatin with buttery caramelized apples juxtaposed against a crisp pastry shell alongside drizzles of crème anglaise, salty caramel, and a tuille cup filled with rich vanilla bean gelato. Now three for three in the frozen confection department this was a lovely representation of “French Apple Pie” and while I still prefer America’s take on the dish this was certainly a memorable dessert teaming with butter and not overwhelmingly sweet.

Chocolate Mousse Tower with Berries, Espresso Crème: Having joked with James that it seemed odd not to serve the dish that Chef Gross prepared with Julia Child as part of her tribute menu he had to agree but for $10 extra it would have been foolish to pass on this lovely cylinder of white and dark chocolate stuffed with light chocolate mousse and berries as a supplemental dish. Topped tableside with a light espresso cream and nicely balanced with fresh blueberries, strawberries, and blackberries against the lightest chocolate tones of the evening I can certainly say this dish is worth the praise it receives and a great deal of impact on the palate for something that sits quite lightly on the stomach.

The Verdict: A truly outstanding meal with great dining buddies, excellent service, and pleasant environs I must say I remain shocked to this day that Christopher’s does not garner more praise from local gourmands, epicures, and ‘foodies.’ While perhaps not as whimsical as Binkley’s or refined as Kai nearly everything we had at Christopher’s that evening was executed with skill and style while portions and quality far outshined the price point. Certainly we dined on a ‘special event’ budget with the Julia Child menu but all things being equal the menu is no more expensive than many high end steakhouses and satellite outposts in town where the “chef proprietaire” has likely not entered the kitchen in years. All things being equal Christopher’s far exceeded expectations and I have no doubt I’ll be back – ideally with friends in tow to tackle the sous vide lobe of foie, duck two ways, mimolette and mushroom pizza, and perhaps a soufflé or three.

Posted in Arizona, Bread Basket, Christopher's, Dessert, Foie, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Phoenix, Pizza, Pork, Scottsdale

August 11, 2012
2:07 PM
by: Uhockey

A Day Out in the Desert, Phoenix AZ

…after a long drive spanning over the course of a week I arrived in Phoenix on July 4, 2012 and with my mother having made the trip with me we did a bit more dining in the valley of the sun before she flew home; I then spent the next thirty-seven days eating nothing but the things I prepared in my apartment kitchen while dealing with everything from a new job and board preparation to moving company snafus and surveying the land for a new ‘permanent’ home. Now, to those who know me the concept of me going months (even a year back in the mid-2000s) without dining out is not uncommon, but all things being equal this time it was not really by choice but more so due to lack of time and on August 11th I decided to set aside a day to get out and dine…even if studying and housing issues did manage to find their way into the agenda.

Beginning the day as I do most, with a morning run well before the sun is up, the first stop on this 6-stop tour would be downtown – a place I’ve now discovered to be devoid of most signs of human life on a Saturday…except for a small parcel of land at 801 North 1st Street entitled “Matt’s Big Breakfast” where a line of thirty or so was already waiting for the approximately 20 seats inside. Having heard of the nearly decade old establishment owned and operated by Matt Pool during my first visit to Phoenix but unable to make it downtown before ten on any day during that trip (when lines reportedly top two hours despite triple digit temperatures) I have to admit that I really had not anticipated the line to be so long at 6:55am and for a moment I contemplated heading elsewhere, but with my books in hand and nothing better to do my curiosity won out and I added my name to the paper list and took a seat in the rapidly dissipating shade.

Sitting and reading while a pair of ASU students talked about having seen Matt’s on (presumably a repeat) of Diners, Dives, and Drive-Ins the previous night I tried to ignore them (and Guy Fiere’s existence in general) while a few people trickled out of the restaurant and with my name at least ten parties down on the list I was surprised when it was called – the solo diner benefit, it seems, landing me an end seat on the counter only fifteen minutes after I arrived and given the expedient service at Matt’s a fortuitous happening that had me leaving the restaurant before the aforementioned students had even entered the doors.

Seated at the counter with a menu I’d already memorized in hand and a daily special that held little interest I perused the interior – small, stark, but efficient and exceptionally clean – before my server filled my water glass, offered me coffee, and fielded a pair of questions prior to taking my order and handing it over to the kitchen less than five feet away. With the space tight and my location literally on the verge of the kitchen and the pass it would not be long before my coffee was filled – a single pour that I subsequently sent back due to a combination of thin mouth-feel, acrid flavor, and no artificial sweetener – and even less time before my stool would be bumped into for the first of thirty times…to say the least this is not a place I’d choose to linger.

Seated and watching the action of the kitchen as plate after plate came through the window and regular after regular chatted with Matt’s wife at the cash register it would not be long before my order would arrive and with the restaurant’s strong dedication to local/organic/fresh sourcing the items that were presented quickly made me realize why so many people deal with long waits and less-than-comfortable seating to experience Matt’s Big Breakfast – the food is really quite excellent, beginning first with a perfect hotcake served with pure maple syrup and far too much (or perhaps just the right amount of) butter for $2.75.

Moving from the dainty golden flapjack to something more substantial, my second dish would actually consist of two plates and four items in the form of “The Chop & Chick” – an $8.95 breakfast comprised of a Pan Seared Iowa Pork Rib Chop with 2 Poached Eggs, Hash Browns, and Whole grain Toast with Blueberry Rhubarb Jam. Apparently their most ‘famous’ dish it is a little difficult to decide which aspect of the plate was the best considering the quality of perfectly poached eggs (something even good restaurants tend to overcook,) crisp yet buttery potatoes and lightly herbed juicy pork chop but in the end I think I would have to give the nod to the toast – hand cut thick, rife with seeds and a rich earthiness, and topped with house made preserves featuring what seemed to be no sugar at all but rather the essence of blueberries with a slight savoriness from the rhubarb…a strong contender for best jam/preserves I’ve ever encountered and reason enough to revisit Matt’s when it moves to its new digs a few doors down (and hopefully decreases wait times and seat bumps…and perhaps finds a coffee roaster whose beans better compliment the quality of the food.)

Leaving Matt’s low on caffeine and realizing Jiffy-Lube and Chase were not yet open to accomplish my afternoon errands I decided to next pay a visit to Jobot Coffee – a place I’d heard both good (music, coffee) and less-than-stellar (patrons, service) things about and pointing my GPS to the address I at first wondered if I’d mistyped; to say the least the area is residential and unassuming, but upon seeing the “Coffee” sign I assumed I was in the right place, parked, and walked in as Sigur Ros Takk played on the outdoor speakers.

Half knowing what to expect from a house-come-coffee shop named the “best place to take a scenester” by the local media I entered the doors of JoBot to the aromatics of coffee and a bar populated by the partially hung-over and half-shaven but surprisingly also to smiling faces and families sitting with their Ipads as the kitchen turned out respectable looking sweet and savory crepes. Not realizing that the space served food in addition to coffee I was greeted by a young lady at the bar who asked if I wanted a menu or if I knew what I’d like I deferred for a moment while I perused the options – eventually settling on an iced Toddy and a pair of pastries made in-house that morning – a $10 tab including a $1 tip.

With the space almost intentionally run-down looking and tables, benches, and chairs strewn throughout three rooms I found bench and 2 tables near the back where a defunct piano sat alongside a family of four and after getting out my books took my first sip of the Toddy – a rich blend from Cartel with a bit of stone-fruit up front and deep chocolate notes on the finish before moving on to my pastries – a $2.50 Strawberry “DohNut” and a $4.00 slice of Dr. Pepper Cake. Beginning first with the donut – a small ring that was possibly baked rather than fried given the total lack of grease, rich cake-like texture, and pockets of berries plus an ample coat of not-too-sweet strawberry glaze I have to say the it was more ‘muffin’ than donut, but all in all it was still quite good. Moving next to the cake – dense, fudgy, and just bitter enough between the cocoa and the nuts to balance the saccharine sweetness of the soda it has been a long long time since I ordered something as simple as “chocolate cake” and while there is no doubt I could have made something like this at home it was a really nice reminder of how good ‘comfort food’ can sometimes be – particularly with really good coffee in a relaxed setting.

With a few hours past and a few tasks accomplished the next stop of my day would be at Pane Bianco – the sandwich shop from the Valley’s most celebrated Chef, Chris Bianco. Having made my pilgrimage to the eponymous pizzeria during my first trip to Phoenix, Pane had been on my radar since the day I moved to town but given the lunch-only hours and my office location in North Scottsdale I knew a weekend would be best and as luck would have it a new website (http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/) and seven day 11a-3p schedule had been rolled out just the week prior.

Arriving at the surprisingly large space (especially when compared to Matt’s and JoBot from earlier that day – and compared to Pizzeria Bianco as well) shortly after 11:30 and allocating parking in the free lot juxtaposing the Light Rail I debated for a moment whether dine-in or to-go was best and opting for the former made my way into the restaurant where two couples already sat. Greeted by one of two servers it was suggested I could take “any seat I wanted” and opting for a bench in the center of the room where a menu awaited I sat down to browse the menu as well as the daily specials listed on the chalkboard – almost all sounding appealing, but a bit different than the Saturday special listed on the website. With a small list of beverages available I was asked soon if I was ready to order or if I needed a few minutes I deferred and requested a glass of water that would never reach even half-empty despite me drinking from it consistently and the restaurant soon filling to capacity.

Having debated the specials but eventually undeterred from the reason I’d come in the first place I soon placed my order for a sandwich and an ‘appetizer’ which I was told would be ‘just a few minutes’ and as while I waited I checked out the small market at the Take Away section featuring the famous focaccia, cans of tomatoes, dried pasta, and apparel before returning to my seat where my items would arrive shortly – the first a Manchego and Tomato Sauce Focaccia del Giorno featuring Bianco’s delectable wood fired focaccia in all of its spongy glory topped with sweet, ripe tomatoes and an ample layer of briny Manchego; at $4.50 probably the most expensive “Grandma Slice” I’ve ever had yet at the same time also probably the best…or at least on par with that at DiFara in Brooklyn for best of its genre.

Moving next to the original target of my desire, a sandwich of Bianco’s House Made Mozzarella, Tomatoes, and Basil on Wood Fired Focaccia my first thought was “wow – that is a lot of cheese” while my second, after a bite, was “wow – that is a lot of flavor.” Perhaps as pure of a sandwich as you can find and the result of exquisite ingredients on top quality bread there is really nothing ‘special’ about the composition of this sandwich aside from the fact that it simply works – a largely unmanipulated masterpiece only improved by a touch of sea salt and cracked black pepper.

Largely unaware on entering that Pane serves dessert it was with much delight that I realized soon after sitting down that three options were available that day and while the flourless chocolate cake I saw emerge from the kitchen to the table next to me looked quite nice there was simply no way I was passing up the Organic Vanilla Bean Rice Pudding with Candied Pecans – another simplistic stunner with creamy Arborio rice imbued with a rich vanilla custard flicked with whole vanilla beans and a few pecans for crunch. Delicate and smooth, flavorful without being overly sweet, and *almost* thick enough to stand a spoon up straight it was not quite the best rice pudding I’ve ever had – but a top five contender without a shadow of a doubt – a reason in and of itself to return to Pane Bianco…though to be fair, if I returned it would take pretty spectacular daily specials to prevent me from ordering the exact same trio of items once again. With Chris and his team now two for two it is only a matter of time before I make my way to Italian Restaurant… and honestly, that time is likely measured in hours and days as opposed to weeks and months.

Previously unaware that Pane Bianco served dessert I’d already made plans for dessert after lunch and given its close proximity plus my sister’s mantra that there is always room for ice cream (because it simply “fills in the cracks”) I did not let the delectable rice pudding from moments before deter me from driving up the street to Churn. A small space situated next to apparent brunch favorite “The Windsor” I admittedly drove right past the small shop at first due to the lack of signage but catching my mistake quickly I took a right and then found myself at the complimentary valet who assured me he could either park my car – or that I could take one of the fifteen minute spots in front of Churn, a much more logical option.

Disembarking from the car and making my way past a family through the doors it was no more than 5 seconds after I entered the door that I was greeted by a friendly woman and with kitsch and candy dominating the space outside the case I was offered a taste of “any and all” that eventually turned into a taste of Vietnamese Coffee, Toasted Coconut, Butter Pecan, Double Chocolate, and Peaches and Honey Ice creams as well as a Peanut Butter Bar. With the textures very creamy, almost like gelato, and fresh flavors focused on subtlety without being excessively sweet – particularly the peaches and honey as well as the toasted coconut – I will admit that making a decision of two flavors in a cup/cone vs. a cookie sandwich was tough but in the end I just couldn’t pass up a fresh baked Snicker Doodle and Chocolate Chip cookie wrapped around Butter Pecan.

Beginning first with the ice cream, I will admit that overall I probably enjoyed the flavor (and novelty) of the peaches and honey a bit more than the butter pecan, but when taking into account what would work best with the baked goods the subtle toasty notes of the butter pecan won me over along with the texture – like thickened almond butter without chunks or whole pecans at all. Moving next to the cookies, I would have probably deferred had it not been for the Snickerdoodle but rife with cinnamon and butter I simply couldn’t pass up my favorite childhood baked good while the chocolate chip was also good, but certainly not better than those made by my aunt or many other bakeries. A nice space with great service I’d certainly go back, though in the future I’d go with more stomach space to try one of the designer sundaes…plus a few more cookies served up warm as opposed to cooled by ice cream.

Forced back to Scottsdale by my realtor and the never ending list of documents necessary to purchase a home (yes, even on a Saturday) I had been debating when to use the Local Dines gift certificate I’d picked up for Praying Monk and without dinner plans for another four hours I figured Saturday would be as good a day as any – particularly as I’d recently heard about the top notch soundtrack described on Chow Bella. Not a drinker by any stretch but happy to explore the menu a bit while reading and listening to great tunes I arrived at the space just prior to 2pm and much to my surprise found the restaurant nearly empty – a mother and daughter finishing their burgers as I took a seat near the window.

Heavy on wood – both reclaimed and polished – constituting everything from the floors to the tables to the open rafters of the ceiling I was greeted quickly upon seating by a young man named Spencer who, along with a female bartender, were apparently the only persons working front of the house that afternoon and with the menu presented I spent a few minutes perusing as Pearl Jam played over head and with my decisions largely made before I even entered the door I had a full glass of water and my order placed by the time the song ended and progressed to Radiohead; to say the least I agreed with Praying Monk’s recent nomination for best restaurant soundtrack.

With the table next to me settling the check as I read and listened to the soundtrack move to Zeppelin, Stones, and Nirvana it would not be long before Spencer would return with my appetizer selections, one hot and one cold, the first a $5 quintet of “hush puppies with tenderbelly ham and tupelo honey.” Crisp on the exterior and toothsome within featuring great cornbread flavor and a touch of brine from the ham each hushpuppy was surprisingly light and low on grease while the honey was delivered thin, warm, and in excessive portion on the side. Great snack/bar food with a happy hour price of a mere $2.50 it would be hard for me not to order these on a return visit given my affinity for both cornbread and honey – ham included or not – but for Southern/Soul food purists it may be better to look elsewhere as the ham is definitely notable on the palate.

For the cold appetizer (not on the appetizer section, mind you, and thus not half off happy hour) the $16 “F This” PB&J Foie Gras Torchon was one part of my original reason for visiting Praying Monk in the first place and served in a small sealed jar with a layer of whipped and compressed liver at the base topped by blackberry jam and house made peanut butter mousse I’d be hard pressed to name a better torchon or terrine under $20 outside of Paris. Arriving as perhaps a 2oz portion of each layer alongside a small stack of toasted baguettes (more available on request – and you will want more) each aspect of the composition was nicely flavored and with the sapor of the foie balanced nicely by the unsweetened berries the peanut butter added a bit of salt and a light toasted flavor that lingered on the palate. Having had far less successful attempts at Foie Gras with PB&J at notably more expensive restaurants I’d consider this a must order.

With the waiter, the bartender, a chef or two, and myself now being entertained by The Red Hot Chili Peppers my main course of “Kentucky Fried Quail” would arrive as I was slowly enjoying the foie gras and with the small bird surprisingly plump I again set aside the liver (…I mean really, it could have made a really good dessert as well) and moved onto the hot dish before me; the first bite a crackling of deep fried skin and lightly herbed breading that would set the tone for everything on the well composed plate. With small bones still present but easily navigable the quail itself was not-surprisingly lean with just enough fat to keep it juicy and with a the bird’s slight gamey flavor well met by the breading even more levity and balance was found in the accoutrements – a mild lightly dressed slaw of Brussels sprots and “Red, White, and Bleu” potato salad featuring tender redskin potatoes, a touch of mayo, and punchy bleu cheese…unnecessarily upscale comfort food perhaps, but damned good as well.

With the hour now nearing three Spencer returned to ask if I wanted to see the dessert menu and with my mantra that it never hurts to look I said sure and received a short list of four choices, all of which sounded okay but none which sounded great, and as such I deferred to my server’s opinion and he recommended the “Fourplay” based on his own personal preference for cheesecake – something I rarely order but was willing to chance given the quality of the savories (and the fact that I still had $4 to spend in order to use my gift certificate) and in the end, a good recommendation though certainly not on par with the savories. Described on the menu as “Flourless chocolate cake, New York Cheesecake, Chocolate Cream, Milk Chocolate Parfait, and a Chocolate Fan” and mere minutes after ordering it was clear from the start that this was a pre-prepared dessert and while each texture was nice enough the cake itself was a tad spongy thus relying on the ‘fan’ to add a bit of crunch – rich but not heavy, cold but not frozen, the flavor itself was not all that different from a Hostess Ho-Ho…not a ‘bad’ thing, but at $7 perhaps the only overpriced item I ordered and an area where the Praying Monk could definitely stand to improve.

With the check settled – a veritable steal considering the gift certificate – and an ample tip added for the 1 to 1 service I sat for a few moments reading and listening to Beast of Burden before making my way to the restroom (check out the sink – very cool) and then the door where the Scottsdale Sun had basted my car to a pleasant 121 degrees. A long day of dining behind me and dinner yet to go I hope Praying Monk is turning better business on other days of the week – my guess is that it’d be an awesome place to watch some College Football in the coming months, particularly given the quality of the food (and beer list if you’re into that.) I wonder if they carry the Big10 Network…

Posted in Arizona, Churn, Coffee, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, JoBot Coffee, Matt's Big Breakfast, Pancakes, Pane Bianco, Phoenix, Pizza, Pork, Praying Monk

July 5, 2012
8:07 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Citizen Public House, Scottsdale AZ

044 - Citizen Public House (1)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

044 - Citizen Public House (9)

Pita and Olive Oil

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BERNIE’S MAC ‘N CHEESE – Gorgonzola, Emmentaler, Cavatappi, chilled tomato relish

044 - Citizen Public House (14)

CHICKEN & WAFFLES – Buttermilk-marinated fried chicken, oat waffles, almond butter, blue clover honey

044 - Citizen Public House (24)

AMARO MEATLOAF – Montenegro Amaro Italian liqueur, pork, beef, parsnip meatloaf, smashed Yukon gold potatoes, roasted zucchini, veal demi-glace, mushroom cream

044 - Citizen Public House (16)

APPLEWOOD SMOKED DUCK – Maple Leaf farms duck breast, creamy rosemary millet, spiced pistachios, sauteed greens

044 - Citizen Public House (29)

BLACK & TAN PUDDING – Dark chocolate pot de creme, caramel pudding, whipped cream, pretzel brittle, brown sugar shortbreads

044 - Citizen Public House (26)

“DONUTS & COFFEE” – Bourbon glazed donut bread pudding, vanilla sauce, cafe au lait ice cream, brown sugar streusel

044 - Citizen Public House (3)

After another long day of moving and gathering supplies neither myself nor my mother wanted anything fancy – just something great – before she flew back to Ohio and scouring the options somehow landed on Citizen Public House, a choice we most certainly don’t regret. Serving largely as a gastropub, of sorts, and with a menu laden with all sort of upscaled American comfort food it really was not WHAT Citizen Public House is doing that would end up wowing, but rather how well they do it.

044 - Citizen Public House (5)

Greeted and seated at a table near the window where our server, Clark, would stop by frequently throughout the evening to make sure we were never for want of anything, menus were present on arrival and with little effort we both honed in on appetizers, mains, and desserts that fit our palates perfectly – honestly, I don’t know if I have ever seen a rather short menu put together so many things I like in a trio of plates – and when these plates arrived each were as good as they read.

044 - Citizen Public House (19)

More or less a collection of small plates featuring big flavors the meal began with soft pita and grassy olive oil before moving into spiral pasta thick with cheese and balanced with bright tomatoes alongside crispy chicken over a toothsome waffle that could have easily fit the role of breakfast or dessert as well as an appetizer. Next up, a plate of tender and rosy duck given texture not by crisp skin but rather crunchy pistachios and millet nearly the texture of mashed potatoes tinged with rosemary and bitter greens. Not to be outdone, my mother’s meatloaf was rich and artistically plated; a classic texture made unique with rich herbal/earthy notes to balance the briny demi-glace and pork.

044 - Citizen Public House (22)

Heading to the home stretch and opting to outsource sweets to Tracey Dempsey, a wise move made by many local kitchens, I think I can confidently say that what landed before me was good but what was presented to my mother is a dish she still talks about today – a layer-by-layer temporal change in texture and flavor that was not quite a budino or a pot de crème, nor a parfait – just a decadent sweet-meets-salty amalgam that was truly amongst the ten best desserts I enjoyed in 2012; a reason in and of itself to visit Citizen Public House…amongst many others.

Posted in Arizona, Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Citizen Public House, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, lost meals, Phoenix, Scottsdale, Vacation, Waffles

July 5, 2012
1:17 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] La Condesa, Phoenix AZ

043 - La Condessa (1)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

043 - La Condessa (2) 043 - La Condessa (11)

Free Chips and Salsa Bar – options including Chipotle, Pico de Gailo, Robano Pibil, Peanut, Jicama, Pecan, Soy, etc.

043 - La Condessa (14)

Baja Sur Shark Taco – Corn Tortilla with Beer Battered Wild Dogfish and lettuce with cilantro mayo

Oaxacan Black Mole Chicken Taco – Spices, Chiles, Nuts, and Chocolate

043 - La Condessa (12)

Cabo Shrimp Taco with Beer Battered Wild Tiger Shrimp and cilantro mayo, jicama

Mayan Cochinita Pibil Taco – Roasted Pork Shoulder with Achiote Rojo slow cooked in banana leaves topped with lime marinated onions and salsa habanera mayo

043 - La Condessa (3) 2

Realizing that an inordinate portion of our travel west, from the Port Fonda experience at Greendirt Farm outside of Kansas City to The Shed and Salsa Brava, had focused on Mexican food I couldn’t help but pass by La Condessa while my mother was in town for tacos and although I know some in Phoenix may claim the space is not “authentic” enough for them (from what I’ve gathered, according to some locals you need to have questionable evaluations from the Health Department to be legit) I can say without a doubt that although I’ve not been south of the border, these are the best tacos I’ve ever tasted.

043 - La Condessa (13)

Beginning first with another free chips-and-salsa-bar stocked with a baker’s dozen of house-made salsas and sauces paired with slightly salted, almost greaseless, and pleasantly warm tortilla chips and moving on to the four tacos featuring local produce and fresh proteins on (unfortunately not house made) imported flour tortillas I particularly enjoyed the crunchy texture and delicate flavors of the shrimp taco while the bright acidity of the pork shoulder and smoky spice of the chicken taco both worked nicely as well.

043 - La Condessa (17)

Perhaps not as regional as some taco stands (or trucks) and instead choosing to focus on the depth and breadth of Mexican cuisine from coast to coast I’m sure the is “better” or “more authentic” cuisine to be found both here and over the border, but thus far I’ve not experienced it (outside of the vastly more upscale, expensive, and certainly less authentic Distrito.)

Posted in Arizona, Food, La Condessa, lost meals, Phoenix, Pork, Vacation

July 5, 2012
7:55 AM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Tryst Cafe, Phoenix AZ

042 - Tryst (1)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

042 - Tryst (5)

Coffee

042 - Tryst (13)

Monte Cristo with two French Toast slices, ham, Gruyere, strawberry jam with sweet potato tots and organic ketchup

47

Pineapple Upside Down Pancake

042 - Tryst (10)

PB&J French Toast on Brioche

042 - Tryst (2)

Located close to my then-sublease and featuring a menu annotated as organic along with praise from local magazines Tryst Café seemed like a good choice for my first breakfast in town and with interesting options on both the sweet and the savory side we arrived early to find the space as well as the service to be warm and inviting. Seated on entry and presented with menus, water, and gratuitously refilled fair trade coffee (bring your own artificial sweetener if you don’t fancy stevia) from a pleasant and efficient woman named Joanna who was seemingly running the show solo the meal most certainly started out well…at least until the food arrived.

042 - Tryst (14)

Featuring a frequently changing selection of items based on what is fresh and local I have to commend Tryst for offering a multitude of options catering to a variety of dietary restrictions, but on the whole the only item which was tasted that really impressed was the French Toast; a hard to mess up amalgam of rich peanut butter and jam on eggy brioche that was pan seared golden and quite good even though the fruit cup lacked flavor aside from the overwhelming melon.

042 - Tryst (6)

Moving past the toast, I guess the tots were as good as you can do with fried potatoes – a light sweetness, though some a bit overcooked – but the flavorless and watery ham on the Monte Cristo and the single ring of too-dull-to-taste Pineapple cooked into the base of a pancake no better than Bisquick left much to be desired. Unique enough as an option for persons with food allergies or restrictions I certainly see a place for Tryst Café in the local food scene – just not in mine, not considering the overall quality Phoenix’s breakfast/brunch scene and organic/healthy/vegan spaces like Herb Box or Nami.

Posted in Arizona, Breakfast, Coffee, Food, French Toast, lost meals, Pancakes, Phoenix, Pork, Tryst, Vacation

July 4, 2012
8:15 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] The Parlor, Phoenix AZ

040 - The Parlor (1)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

040 - The Parlor (9) 040 - The Parlor (7)

Arancine – Crispy Saffron Risotto / Pomodoro / Fontina

040 - The Parlor (12) 040 - The Parlor (10)

Celebrity Chevre and “Grilled Farmer’s” Goat’s Milk Cheese Plate with Grilled Rosemary Flatbread, Basil Pesto and Peperonata

040 - The Parlor (21) 040 - The Parlor (15)

10 inch Margherita – House Made Mozzarella / Heirloom Tomatoes / Basil / EVOO

4 040 - The Parlor (19)

Duck Club – Roasted Duck / Applewood Smoked Bacon / Red Wine Tomato Jam / Roasted Garlic Aioli and Crispy Fries

040 - The Parlor (24)

“Sweet” Corn Zeppole – Brown Sugar Roasted Corn Fritters Served w/ Butterscotch & Chili Mascarpone

040 - The Parlor (26)

Turtle Budino – Dark Chocolate Pudding / Salted Caramel / Spicy Pecans / Pizelle Cookie

040 - The Parlor (2) 040 - The Parlor (3)

…in a city where Chris Bianco made pizza famous his eponymous restaurant was unfortunately closed on July Fourth thus leading my mother and I in search of an alternative when she was craving pizza after two straight days of Mexican cuisine, a charge to which The Parlor would prove more than capable, reigning to this day as the best Margherta I’ve found outside of Heritage Square since moving to Phoenix – and home to some rather excellent all-around Italian food, as well.

040 - The Parlor (29)4

A large restaurant on Camelback; dimly lit, trendy, and crowded – particularly on a night when many were out celebrating and other restaurants were closed, our 8:00pm arrival landed us the last open two-top in the dining room and greeted by a friendly young woman named Kaelyn suggestions were made and selecting an appetizer, main course, and dessert each we thought that we had over ordered but after a long day of driving, unpacking, and finally reaching our destination in nearly 110F weather we made short work of each plate – the subtly sweet Celebrity Chevre and warm, melted “Grilled Farmer’s Goat Cheese” particularly memorable amongst the first plates while the every ingredient on both the pizza and the sandwich was fresh, flavorful, and well prepared – the house made mozzarella and bright tomatoes livening up a crisp but toothsome crust and the tomato jam melding the gamey duck and briny bacon quite admirably.

040 - The Parlor (27)

Moving on to desserts – I really have no excuse for not returning to The Parlor for at least some sweets since that visit in July, but it is something I’ll definitely have to remedy this summer as both the doughnuts and the budino were excellent – a bit of heat added to both in order to smooth out the sweetness and textures aplenty. Yet another of the many spaces that locals and ‘food nerds’ overlook I’d strongly recommend stopping by the Parlor to anyone craving a good pizza but unwilling to wait for Bianco – I’d also urge them to order dessert from one of the few places in town turning out great sweets without the assistance of Tracy Dempsey.

Posted in Arizona, Dessert, Food, Italian, Phoenix, Pizza, Pork, The Parlor, Vacation

July 4, 2012
12:59 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Salsa Brava, Flagstaff AZ

039 - Salsa Brava (1) 039 - Salsa Brava (2)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

039 - Salsa Brava (6)

Unlimited Chips and Salsa Bar (Pineapple Habanero, Tomatillo, Pico De Gallo, Regular, Fire Roasted Tomato Chipotle Salsa, etc)

039 - Salsa Brava (15) 039 - Salsa Brava (17)

Cheese Crisp— A giant flour tortilla layered with melted mixed cheeses and grilled to perfection.

039 - Salsa Brava (23)039 - Salsa Brava (25)

Carnitas Combo— Carnitas, cheese enchilada, a chicken tostada, guacamole, and flour tortillas. Served with home-cooked pinto beans and Mexican rice plus flour tortillas

039 - Salsa Brava (19)

Enchilada Dinner— Corn tortillas filled with mixed cheeses, topped with our enchilada sauce and baked with more cheese.

4 039 - Salsa Brava (27)

Mexican Fried Ice Cream with whipped cream and chocolate sauce

039 - Salsa Brava (5)

My first meal as an Arizonian occurred on our Nation’s birthday…with Mexican food served by a kid named Dutch at a place recommended by Guy Fieri…and in all honesty, Salsa Brava was actually quite good; the sort of place that if you order the signature items you can walk away with a good meal at a good price and the sort of place where both the food and the service are better than they need to be.

039 - Salsa Brava (11)

Large in size and big in attitude Salsa Brava hails itself as the best Mexican food in town and with everything made in house using largely organic ingredients one would be hard pressed to argue with such an assessment – especially after standing and watching the chefs in the kitchen make nearly a dozen salsas by hand and pouring over the extensive menu, eventually settling on a regional favorite in the cheese crisp, a daily carnitas special with tender pork ample with citrus, and a plate of cheesy enchiladas plus fried ice cream – a truly memory provoking dish for myself dating back to countless trips to Mexican Town in Detroit after games at JLA.

039 - Salsa Brava (3)

Criticized by some for lacking authenticity it probably goes without saying that there is better regional Mexican cuisine to be found throughout the southwest and all things being equal Salsa Brava probably isn’t going to change the way you feel about Mexican food, but taken for what it is the whole experience was everything I’d expected walking in the door, and in some ways quite a bit better.

Posted in Arizona, Dessert, Flagstaff, Food, Ice Cream, lost meals, Pork, Salsa Brava, Vacation

July 4, 2012
7:27 AM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Whoos Donuts and Cafe Pasqual’s, Santa Fe NM

036 - Whoos Donuts (14)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

036 - Whoos Donuts (4)

Whoos Donuts

036 - Whoos Donuts (13) 036 - Whoos Donuts (9)

Smores, White Chocolate Pistachio, Berry Vanilla, Cherry Coconut, Plain Glazed, Maple Bacon Bar, Blueberry Filled with Cherry Glaze, Chocolate Peanut, Chocolate Ganache, Boston Cream, Toffee Chip, Brown Butter Bar.

037 - Cafe Pasqual (3)037 - Cafe Pasqual (2)

Café Pasqual’s

037 - Cafe Pasqual (10) 037 - Cafe Pasqual (11)

Canele

037 - Cafe Pasqual (12)

Coffee

4 037 - Cafe Pasqual (17)

Maga’s Cheese Blintzes – 3 home made blintzes, golden from the skillet, strawberry jam and sour cream

037 - Cafe Pasqual (19) 037 - Cafe Pasqual (21) 037 - Cafe Pasqual (24) 037 - Cafe Pasqual (25)

Griddled Polenta with Sauteed Chorizo, Corn, Red Chile – Chile Flecked Fried Polenta in a pool of red chile sauce, piled with house chorizo, roasted corn nibblets, 2 eggs your way.

036 - Whoos Donuts (1)

Embarking on an early morning run around Santa Fe and the Railyard Park while my mother slept in I was surprised to spot Whoos Donuts even though it was on my agenda; I actually had no idea it was so close to our hotel and although we had later breakfast plans at Café Pasqual I was glad to stop in beforehand to gather a few snacks…or a full dozen (hey, don’t judge, it’s 10% off!) and after speaking with the owner/manager Jeff as cheesy 80s tunes played overhead I made my way to the car and dug right in as we drove to Pasqual’s – a good choice not only because the downtown fourth of July traffic was ridiculous and not only because Pasqual’s would turn out to be an utter disappointment, but because Whoo’s Donuts are really quite excellent.

036 - Whoos Donuts (17) 4

Featuring a wide variety of options ranging from Classic to Filled & Fancy to Decadent and options both yeast raised and cake nearly every option we ordered at Whoos that morning was still warm in the box and although my personal leanings generally tend toward cake it was actually the trio of filled yeasted options at Whoos that wowed the most – the smores with an interior tasting identical to a toasted marshmallow, the Blueberry filled without a hint of high fructose corn syrup but instead the flavor of pure blueberry jam, and the Boston Cream a spot on interpretation of the classic cake/pie with both custard and cream beneath a dense chocolate ganache. With some eaten for breakfast, some en route to Phoenix, and others surviving to the following morning you’d be hard pressed to find a better “all around” donut shop than Whoos – though my own personal biases would love to see their take on an apple fritter should I ever return.

4 037 - Cafe Pasqual (27) 037 - Cafe Pasqual (6) 037 - Cafe Pasqual (5)

Moving on to the Beard Awarded Café Pasqual’s, perhaps Santa Fe’s most well-known restaurant, for a proper breakfast before completing the final leg of our trip I’d personally like to think that my disappointment with the meal was due to overinflated expectations or ordering incorrectly but in reality the fact of the matter is that Café Pasqual’s simply does not execute at the level of a restaurant so well regarded. Beginning first with average coffee served luke warm and paired with an overcooked and gummy canele before progressing to eggs so over-poached that I sent them back to the kitchen there really was not much to like about Pasqual aside from the décor and perhaps the crispy golden blintzes – though I certainly won’t tolerate being packed into such a small space to pay $14 for them ever again.

Posted in Breakfast, Cafe Pasqual, Cafe Pasqual's, Coffee, Food, lost meals, New Mexico, Pork, Santa Fe, Vacation, Whoos Donuts

July 3, 2012
8:44 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Geronimo, Santa Fe NM

035 - Geronimo (1)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

035 - Geronimo (3)

Grand Cru Cuvee des Crayeres Brut, Champagne

4 035 - Geronimo (10)

Sourdough, Housemade Lavash, Chili Cheddar Ciabatta

035 - Geronimo (13)

Bing Cherry and Prosciutto Salad with Baby Arugula, Spanish Goat Cheese, Sweet Sherry Vinaigrette

035 - Geronimo (17) 035 - Geronimo (15)

Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras “Veronique” with Tahitian Vanilla French Toast, Macerated Grapes, Tangerine Gastrique

035 - Geronimo (29) 035 - Geronimo (27)

Fiery Sweet Chile and Honey Grilled Mexican White Prawns with Jasmine Almond Rice Cakes, Frisee Red Onion Salad, Yuzu Basil Aioli

035 - Geronimo (26) 035 - Geronimo (21)

Peppery Elk Tender loin and Applewood Smoked Bacon with Roasted Garlic Fork-Mashed Potatoes, Sugar Snap Peas, Creamy Brandied-Mushroom Sauce

5 035 - Geronimo (39)

Mandarin Orange “Creamsicle” Cake – Orange Soaked Genoise, Crème Fraiche Whipped Cream

035 - Geronimo (41) 035 - Geronimo (40)

Caramelized Banana Cream Pie with Ginger Cream and Milk Chocolate

035 - Geronimo (33) 035 - Geronimo (34) 035 - Geronimo (44)

Coconut Jasmine Ice Cream Bombe with Blueberry Soup, Vanilla Cake, Feuille de Brick Tuille

035 - Geronimo (4)

Dining at our second four star/four diamond restaurant in as many days Geronimo, like The American Restaurant the night before, proved that there is some truth to rankings and guidebooks by presenting a truly exemplary experience from start to finish. Housed in thick adobe walls with white tablecloths and lush curtains the space feels every bit as authentic to Santa Fe as the dramatic St. Francis Cathedral downtown, and featuring cuisine with roots in French and Spanish tradition reinterpreted to fit the American Southwest this was another instance where everything from arrival to departure was well worth the trip and the price of admission.

035 - Geronimo (5)

Greeted by our server, Brook, and welcomed with a glass of champagne as we sat down at an elegant two-top in the corner it would not be long before we were additionally welcomed by Chef Paul Novak who made his way around the restaurant greeting regulars and first timers with equal zeal and after perusing the menu for a moment and receiving recommendations from both Brook and Paul the night began with fresh baked breads and locally churned butter before progressing through appetizers and main courses that each showed a deft command of flavors and textures; heat tempered by sweet and acid used to balance out the richness of ample cuts of both foie gras and elk loin; the former amongst the best seared preparations I’ve ever experienced.

035 - Geronimo (6)

Moving to desserts and unable to select just two after listening to Brook’s descriptions of each the decision was made for a trio and although I entirely recommend the savories at Geronimo, the sweets are on a whole different level – each one a unique take on a classic and all not only delicious, but beautiful. Admittedly possessing a very liberal sweet tooth I was particularly infatuated with the creamsicle – the chef’s take on a traditional dulce de leche cake infused with orange with the tang of crème Fraiche serving as a foil to the otherwise intense sweetness of the moist and buttery cake. Not the sort of restaurant to skip on portions or flavors my only ‘issue’ with Geronimo is the lack of a tasting menu – something I’m sure would be fantastic…and the fact that the restaurant is nearly 500 miles away as I’d love to go back.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, French Toast, Geronimo, lost meals, New Mexico, Santa Fe, Vacation

July 3, 2012
4:53 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] The Shed, Santa Fe NM

034 - The Shed (1) 034 - The Shed (2)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

034 - The Shed (9) 034 - The Shed (5)

Sangria – Raspberry, Blueberry, Strawberry, and Burgundy – $6/glass

034 - The Shed (12)

Chips and Salsa – $5

034 - The Shed (15)

Cold Raspberry Soup – Fresh Red Raspberries, Rose Wine, Lime, Sour Cream – $5

034 - The Shed (17) 034 - The Shed (19)

Enchilada and Taco Plate – One Rolled Blue Corn Enchilada filled with cheddar and onion, red chili and green chili. One soft blue corn taco filled with cheddar, onion, tomato, lettuce, baked chicken. Served with Posole and Pinto Beans plus a side of Garlic Bread – $12

034 - The Shed (23) 034 - The Shed (22)

Lemon Souffle – $6

034 - The Shed (11) 034 - The Shed (10)

Arriving in Santa Fe well before our late reservation at Geronimo but with most of the local galleries and shops already closed for the day the decision was made to pop in at The Shed, a local favorite of tourists and locals alike, and reprimanded to sitting at the bar even though the restaurant never reached quarter capacity during our sixty minute visit we made the best of it, chatting with a friendly young bartender named Devon and a couple next to us while we waited. Clearly as well regarded for its alcohol, vibe, and décor as for the food we started things off with robust yet fruity Sangria to pair with fresh chips and salsa being made to order as we browsed a menu of both typical and truly unique interpretations of Southwest cuisine.

034 - The Shed (24)

Bearing in mind our dinner plans and opting to order lightly and share; the raspberry soup a definite highlight that was strongly recommended by Devon, and the Enchilada and Taco plate an impressive portion of very well prepared classics for a mere $12. Fairing less well, largely because it was overcooked and underflavored, the soufflé seemed an odd option for a Southwestern restaurant and were I to return I’d instead try some of the other savories and go with the Raspberry Soup for dessert.

Posted in Dessert, Food, New Mexico, Santa Fe, Souffle, The Shed, Vacation

July 3, 2012
7:11 AM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] The Donut Whole and The Pancake House, Wichita and Liberal KS

031 - The Donut Whole Wichita (1)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

031 - The Donut Whole Wichita (3)

The Donut Whole

031 - The Donut Whole Wichita (15) 031 - The Donut Whole Wichita (17)

Sandwich Cookie, Key Lime Cheesecake, Cherry Bomb, Cherry Cordial, Maple Bacon, Oatmeal Cookie

032 - The Pancake House Liberal (2) 032 - The Pancake House Liberal (3)

The Pancake House

032 - The Pancake House Liberal (12)

Bacon and Biscuits

032 - The Pancake House Liberal (11)

Apple Pancake with Cinnamon Glaze and Apple Syrup

032 - The Pancake House Liberal (15)

Dutch Pancake with Lemon and Powdered Sugar

031 - The Donut Whole Wichita (9)

Admitting that we went slightly out of our way to visit St. Louis and Kansas City during our westward route there was one small problem in our plan; the state of Kansas – a veritable food wasteland outside of Wichita and Topeka (and a great place to get a speeding ticket, to boot.) Having left KC late the previous night and spending the night in Wichita our first stop the following morning was at The Donut Whole and…well, it was actually really quite good.

031 - The Donut Whole Wichita (5) 031 - The Donut Whole Wichita (12)

Locally focused both with regard to their small batch donuts and freshly roasted coffee (from The Spice Merchant) perhaps my favorite aspect of the Donut Whole (aside from the unique, moist, and incredibly light cake donuts) was the kitschy décor and pleasant staff – both adding to the fun of a place with nearly forty donut options ranging from simple glazed to hydrox cookies to vegan options. In the end we settled for a half dozen, most enjoyed in store as we used the restaurant’s free Wi-Fi, and with the fruit options spot on to their namesake flavors and both cookie based options equally good I only wish we’d bought more.

032 - The Pancake House Liberal (9)

Moving on down the road to the Pancake House, located in at 640 E Pancake Blvd in Liberal – a city who pronounces themselves as some sort of pancake capital of the United States – I’ll simply say that from the moment we walked in I wanted to leave – and wished more and more that we’d have ordered the full dozen at the Donut Whole. Stating up front that I really did not expect “great” things from The Pancake House, what I did hope for was good service and decent pancakes – the first inexplicably absent as our server essentially threw menus on the table before us before sauntering off and subsequently offered only the bare minimum of human interaction necessary to fulfill her duties as she hammed it up with a table of septuagenarian men at the table across the way.

032 - The Pancake House Liberal (4)

Moving onto the food – focusing on the options deemed “house specialties” on the store’s menu – I was admittedly pleasantly surprised by my mother’s $5.50 Dutch Pancake which was crispy on the edges and pillowy soft within, but my “massive” apple pancake (a pancake for which the restaurant has a ‘wall of fame’ praising those who finish it) was doughy, largely flavorless, and the apple almost imperceptible without the apple syrup. It was also quite small – I finished it on principle along with two buttermilk biscuits and could have easily finished another, though I’m not sure why anyone would want to…though I guess it’s nice to know that my name exists in the bright lights of Liberal, Kansas for my efforts.

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Food, Kansas, Liberal, lost meals, Pancakes, Pork, The Donut Whole, The Pancake House, Vacation, Wichita

July 2, 2012
9:58 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] The American Restaurant, Kansas City MO

030 - The American Restaurant (1) 030 - The American Restaurant (3)  030 - The American Restaurant (11)

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

030 - The American Restaurant (14)

Cheddar Popcorn and Peppered Potato chips

030 - The American Restaurant (16)

Lionfish – Bacardi Rum, Orange Flower Water, Domaine Canton Ginger Liquor

Cherry Blossom – Orange Curacao, Cherry Heering, Brandy, Cherries

030 - The American Restaurant (21) 030 - The American Restaurant (24)

Fontina Val D’Aosta Truffle Toast

030 - The American Restaurant (19)

Poutine with blood sausage and Fontina fondue

030 - The American Restaurant (40)

Salmon Rillettes with House-Made Focaccia Crackers

030 - The American Restaurant (42)

Duck Pastrami with Chocolate Pumpernickel Crumble, Bing Cherry, Mustard Seed

030 - The American Restaurant (43) 030 - The American Restaurant (44)

Unpasteurized Cow Butter with Black Sea Salt, Goat Butter from Quebec, Cracked Wheat, White Bread

030 - The American Restaurant (46)

BABY ARTICHOKE Prairie Birthday Farm greens, pistachio, fava bean (28 different greens including mint)

4 030 - The American Restaurant (51)

63 DEGREE CAMPO LINDO EGG corn, huitlacoche, lamb, porcini

030 - The American Restaurant (53) 030 - The American Restaurant (54)

TERRINE OF FOIE GRAS heirloom tomato, boudin noir, French lentil, brioche (Aerated brioche, and lentils cooked in chicken stock)

030 - The American Restaurant (56)

DAY BOAT SCALLOP sweet onion, stinging nettle risotto, honey, lavender

4 030 - The American Restaurant (62)

SOFT SHELL CRAB sugar snap pea, shiitake mushroom, miso, ramps

030 - The American Restaurant (64) 030 - The American Restaurant (66)

PORK JOWL beer Mustard Seed, Ribbons of Celery, Celery Puree, Caraway

030 - The American Restaurant (67) 030 - The American Restaurant (72)

DRY AGED BERKSHIRE PORK CHOP broad bean, carrot, spring garlic (pommes souffle, broad beans with nutmeg, carrot ash, carrot pudding, yogurt)

030 - The American Restaurant (73) 030 - The American Restaurant (77)

CAMPO LINDO CHICKEN buttermilk, gnudi, fiddlehead ferns, morel mushrooms (crispy skin, onion strings, buttermilk powder)

4 030 - The American Restaurant (82)

COLORADO LAMB crépinette, rhubarb, english peas, hibiscus (pea puree, candied hibiscus flower)

030 - The American Restaurant (84)

Sweet Corn and Berry Palate Cleanser (Corn Custard with Saskatoon Berries and Sable crumble)

030 - The American Restaurant (102)

NICKERS BAR chocolate torte, cashew caramel, bacon candy, sea salt ice cream (salted caramel, cashew caramel, crispy nougat, flourless chocolate cake, bacon)

030 - The American Restaurant (92) 030 - The American Restaurant (89)

BOURBON PEACH COBBLER sweet tea sabayon, pecan crisps tea cake, grilled peach sherbet (tea cake, sabayon of bourbon tea, cryo-vacced peach in bourbon, grilled peach sherbet)

030 - The American Restaurant (87) 030 - The American Restaurant (85)

SMOKED STRAWBERRY PIE angel food microsponge, honey crème brulee, scorched gelato (cold smoked strawberry, aerated angel food, pie shard, scorched milk gelato, crème brulee, aerated honey)

030 - The American Restaurant (94) 030 - The American Restaurant (96) 5 030 - The American Restaurant (100)

BERRIES N’ CREAM FLAMBÉ coffee cake, pecans, Bärenjäger, buttermilk sherbet

030 - The American Restaurant (105)

Mango Raspberry Pate de Fruit, German Chocolate Cookie, Sea-Salted Chocolate Caramel

030 - The American Restaurant (12) 030 - The American Restaurant (13) 030 - The American Restaurant (15)

With an early reservation and our arrival slightly preceding the dining room’s first seating our visit to Debbie Gold’s The American Restaurant began with complimentary snacks in the lounge while we each enjoyed a cocktail and subsequently progressed through a pair of small plates before we descended the stairs to our plus two-top overlooking Kansas City as Dean Martin and Old Blue Eyes crooned overhead. A good start and a stunning room the experience would only improve as we were greeted by a young woman named Sunshine who would act as our captain, server, and guide for the rest of the evening – each dish presented with ample detail and the lady herself even charged with preparing our final dessert when the time arrived.

030 - The American Restaurant (27)  030 - The American Restaurant (29)4

Featuring a menu focused on an “American” vision but clearly rooted in a multitude of culinary traditions the decision of what to order was an easy one as each diner could order as many courses as he or she liked from any section of the menu and with a great diversity of items focused on local farms and seasonal produce I opted for seven courses while my mother chose a quintet – eight savories and four of Nick Wesemann’s decadent desserts plus canapé, bread service, amuses, mignardises, a palate cleanser, and a bonus savory from the kitchen – each dish remarkable with vibrant produce and picture-perfect proteins existing in balance while the sweets each presented a unique take on classic flavors with textures and temperatures adding intrigue as smoke, salt, alcohol, and savory tones prevented any one from being overly sweet.

030 - The American Restaurant (31) 030 - The American Restaurant (34)030 - The American Restaurant (4)

Our last meal in Kansas City was not only the best in Kansas City but the best of the entire trip from Columbus to Phoenix; a top to bottom and start to finish masterpiece of a meal that both my mother and I still reminisce of fondly. Located in the Crown Center, a dramatic room with service every bit deserving of its four diamond/star commendations from AAA and Forbes, The American Restaurant is not just a restaurant that is “good for the Midwest,” it is a restaurant that would be great anywhere and one worth traveling to.

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Kansas City, lost meals, Missouri, Pork, The American Restaurant, Vacation