The Goodwich
Fluff & Nutt – Nutella, Toasted Marshmallow, Crunch (Monte Cristo Style)
Ham & – Thick Cut Ham and Daily Inspiration of Arugula, Aged Cheddar, Mostarda (Monte Cristo Style)
Foie & – Foie Gras Mousse, Crispy Chicken Skin, Caramelized Cabbage, Almond
Located in front of self-pronounced dive-bar, Dino’s Lounge, and still a work in progress as described by co-owner Jake Leslie who was present and ever informative, smiling, and gracious throughout my visit for a trio of sandwiches it can only be said that if restaurants only get better with time then “The Goodwich” is poised to be nothing short of a destination. Featuring an eclectic menu ranging from $3-$9 with a dozen unique base-sandwiches and options for breads, add-ons, and “Monte Cristo” treatment providing ample room for customization it was after perhaps ten minutes of chatting with Jake about the metal-kiosk’s surprising sourcing program (think foie from Artisanal Foods made into terrine by Goodwich staff, or house-made mostarda and spreads) that I placed my order and subsequently taking a seat in raucous Dino’s where TV On The Radio and The NHL Network kept me entertained it would be just over 10 minutes before my food arrived, each option truly stunning despite a sub-$20 tab. Opting for all sandwiches on White (Pain de Mie, actually, harkening Jake and co-owner Josh Clark’s fine dining rearing) with two fried-golden the degustation began with the “Foie &” as a thick lacquer of unctuous terrine found balance of both taste and texture in crunchy, salted chicken skin plus slightly sweet stewed cabbage and moving next to “Ham &” a similar concept was presented, but entirely different with tender pork providing the brine as snappy arugula blended with fruity mostarda and aged cheese for big flavor, but a sense of refinement akin to something served on the strip at 4x the $5 price. Clearly unable to resist dessert in such a setting, particularly when featuring golden bread and Nutella for $3.50 (the 50 cent upcharge for a visit to the fryer), it was with the sweet but subtle “Fluff & Nutt” that my meal concluded and as the soundtrack overhead shifted to Janis Joplin’s ‘Mercedes Benz,’ subsequently joined by nearly every voice in the house, I couldn’t help but smile and think about the early days of Cleveland’s now-legendary Melt, a business and sourcing model not dissimilar to what The Goodwich is targeting, and one that has now spawned three additional locations. Defying any thoughts of the ‘simple sandwich’ I wish the folks all the luck in the world and will undoubtedly be back; a $9 foie gras fix is something not even “Major Cities” have to offer…not to mention anything for $3 using ingredients this good.
