Yusho, Las Vegas NV

Yusho

Last Word – London Dry Gin, Green Chartreuse, Maraschino, Lime, Egg White

Rapid Descent – Genever, Orange Curacao, Lemon, Eau De Vie (not photographed)

Shigoku Oysters

2xFried Chicken – Kanzuri, Green Tea Lime

Octopus – Haricot Vert, Egg Yolk, Enoki Mushroom

Duck Breast – Shitake Marmalade, Scallion

Veggie Tempura – Seasonal Selection, Daikon Ponzu

Charred Eggplant – Japanese Mint, Plum, Peanuts

Duck Leg – Plum BBQ, Herbs, Steam Buns

Japanese Griddle Cake – Squid, Green Papaya, Thai Basil (Okonomiyaki)

NY Aged Strip Steak – Wagyu, Nori, Mushroom, Peppercorn

Pork Shoulder – Kimchi, Cilantro

Doughnuts – Tofu, Sweet Potato, Rosemary

Soft Serve – Coffee, Fernet Caramel, Pop Rocks, Nori

In a city full of displaced Chicagoans longing for their beef, dogs, and deep dish it would seem odd to some that one of the most exciting Windy City imports to Sin City in years has arrived in the form of Japanese Street food but having been lucky enough to attend the soft opening this Saturday suffice it to say that Yusho is poised to buck the trend of “celebrity chef” Strip-side dining. Owned by Matthias Merges and nothing short of stellar in its Avondale location where service, sourcing, and skills befitting his Michelin starred past found new footing in reinterpreted yakitori, a visit to Yusho at the Monte Carlo begins with the space, a jazzed up version of the original with a long floorplan plus eye-popping colors juxtaposing the gleaming open kitchen and with knowledgeable servers brought in from icons like Savoy and Robuchon without any pomp or pretense the ‘experience’ unfolds like few others – casually refined and a whole lot of fun, the kitchen and front of house doing each other justice even on day one. Speaking to the cuisine itself, having already visited the original twice a few selections were made while allowing the kitchen carte blanche otherwise and beginning with pristine oysters each of the eleven courses that followed proved superlative, the signature 2xChicken as good as ever while eggplant, pork shoulder, and crispy duck served with bao all served notice that that Fat Choy is no longer the only game in town. Surprised by the nutty, acid kissed octopus before being wowed by both the umami-laden wrapped Wagyu and a fluffy okonomiyaki serving up funk and heat tempered by fruit it was finally with a duo of desserts that we concluded and although the softserve remains a worthy staple it was the doughnuts that stole the show, an unexpected lightness from the tofu beneath sophisticated herbal notes and crystallized ginger, just barely sweet. Admittedly a fan of Chef Merges dating back to a meal partly responsible for stoking my love of fine dining during his tenure at Charlie Trotter’s only time will tell whether such a radical departure from the Vegas ‘norm’ will yield success, but with a great team already in place and a dynamic cocktail menu including several draught options alongside the sort of food this city has not yet seen I know I’ll be back soon because whether for drinks, bites, or a full meal Yusho is the sort of restaurant Las Vegas Boulevard needs.

http://montecarlo.com/restaurants/yusho.aspx