Carlo’s Bakery
Chocolate Cannoli and Cannoli
Chocolate dipped Pecan Wedge
Butter Crumb Danish
Red Velvet Cupcake
Carrot Cake Cupcake
Napoleon
Chocolate Meringue
7-Layer Cookie
Admittedly surprised by the passionate service of red sauce classics at Buddy V’s and Chef Valastro’s hands on approach to business during an early walkthrough of his imported Hoboken storefront it was with seemingly appropriate expectations that I approached the newly minted Carlo’s Bakery during its first official Saturday at The Venetian but with high prices, meager portions, and pedestrian pastry besmirched by long lines and paltry service suffice it to say the “cake boss” has a lot to learn. Clever in design and diverse in craft with cakes, cannoli, cookies by the pound and more sold in the Italian tradition of tickets and hand bills Carlo’s problems begin at the door where several starry eyed customers forget tickets in the face of photo-ops and proceeding to the counter the issue is multiplied by mislabeled product, the fledgling staff all the more confused with items frequently forgotten by many early reports – in my case a $3 creampuff for which I was charged but never received. Moving next to the product, prices not substantially different from the east coast flagship but still dramatically inflated given the name on the door, my tasting began with a pair of pre-filled cannolis and with sog already setting in suffice it to say better can be had at Montesano’s for half the price, any true Italian realizing filled-to-order is the only way to go. Admittedly disappointed but moving on to more, a duo of $3.50 cupcakes smaller and far less inspiring than Sprinkles or Bouchon would follow and proceeding to a duo of forgettable cookies I was thankful when three forms of puff pastry finally proved memorable – the fresh-cut Napoleon I’d watched the team layer, frost, and cut in the kitchen a flaky masterpiece and the still-warm cinnamon strudel danish a pastry well worth the five bucks. Obviously new and clearly capable of sustaining a few bumps in the road on the backs of adoring fans it will be interesting to see just how long Buddy and team can ride the initial wave of hype, but featuring the only legitimate Italian Bakery on the strip I’m sure they’ll be around long enough to justify waiting to visit unless one is a true fan – and even then I’d suggest checking out Freed’s or Montesano’s first.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Paying a premium for the location and celebrity chef ‘experience.’
RECOMMENDED: Puff pastry, specifically items you watch them make fresh.
AVOID: Anything filled and left to sit.
TIP: Get there early and grab a ticket or be prepared to wait; check your order before you leave.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
