MTO Café Downtown Summerlin
MEZE PLATTER – baba ghanoush, farro tabbouleh, edamame and chick pea hummus, tzatziki, cucumbers + flatbread
TOMATO BASIL SOUP – grilled cheddar toast
NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER – citrus-herb & ritz cracker crumble
FRENCH ONION SOUP – gruyere, parmesan, provolone
KENTUCKY FRIED CHICKEN – over easy eggs, mash browns, country gravy
CHICKEN POT PIE – traditional chicken pot pie, baby carrots, onions, celery, leeks, chicken stock, buttermilk biscuit crust
TRUFFLE MEATLOAF – ground veal, garlic shallots, ketchup, dijon, hemp seeds, parsley, thyme + sweet potato gnocchi
CURRIED SPAGHETTI SQUASH – curry seasoned, roasted spaghetti squash, julienne carrots, grapes, beets, glazed walnuts, lime zest, cilantro
BRUSSELS SPROUTS – horseradish, onions
BLACKBERRY SCONE
APPLE PECAN SCONE – cinnamon glaze
OATMEAL COOKIE
CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE
BANANA NUTELLA MUFFIN – candied banana chip
CARAMEL SALTED BROWNIE
POPPYSEED MUFFIN – blueberry compote
Stating from the day it was announced that I felt MTO Café was the most relevant restaurant on the list of eateries at Downtown Summerlin it is with some shame that it took so long to visit after the store’s opening, but having enjoyed Chef Johnny Church’s breakfast creations at the Downtown location several months prior I’m happy to report the dinner selections in the shadow of Red Rock are just as well done.
Eschewing traditional tableside service and instead implementing a system similar to that of Panera, where guests order and pay at a counter before waiting briefly at their table for Made-to-Order creations, it was with a specially requested tasting menu that my experience at MTO Downtown Summerlin took place and leaving selections to Midwestern Chef’s discretion the plates presented frequently took me back to my childhood – memories of roadtrips espoused by some things while upgrades on traditional comfort foods were found in several more.
Beginning with flavored waters from the restaurant’s FreeStyle machine – the Peach Dasani particularly lovely, round one began with a sharable tray of Mediterranean dips as well as salads and while the tabbouleh was not particularly my style all three of the dips were absolutely top notch, the smoke-imbued eggplant amongst the best I’ve ever tasted while edamame added a crisp, vegetal tinge to hummus atop piping hot pita.
Conserving capacity to maximize the experience, round two consisted of three soups served in espresso-style shooters and although the clam chowder may have benefitted from just a touch more brine the cream-style tomato and heavily cheese-topped French onion were both reference standard, a similar compliment applicable to the KFC Breakfast, a juicy breast of chicken beneath herb tinged double-crisp batter atop a pile of pan-seared mashed potatoes all beneath a veil of country gravy and an over easy egg.
A bit leery of rumors that the Chicken Pot Pie was substandard as the biscuit-topped version represents a favorite for myself and pretty much everyone outside of Dutch Amish Country (and those who consider Swanson or Banquet to be quality cuisine) I’m more than pleased to say that the version served by Church and Co. is something many Southern Grandmas would be proud to call their own and with both the stock and chicken teaming with herbs while the carrots offered sweet balance an equally deft plate was executed in the case of Meatloaf that opts not so hit diners with a sledgehammer of false flavors from truffle oil, but rather to dig deeper and provide an aromatic topnote to tender veal beneath flavors both smoky and sweet alongside tender orange gnocchi.
At this point admittedly getting a bit full it was thankfully a downsized portion of the vegan spaghetti squash that arrived and again focusing on nuance, with the sweetness of grapes and carrots used to offset the earthy flavors of beets and curry, one would be hard pressed to find any fault in a plate adhering to such dietary standards – the side-dish of fresh sprouts perfectly cooked, though a bit too spicy from horseradish for this diner’s tongue.
Not particularly focused on plated desserts, but instead offering fresh-baked cookies and several pastries available throughout the day, it was with two boxes of goods that I took my leave after a long chat with the Chef and his team and indulging in some after the walk home with others saved for the following morning it was somewhat disappointing to find the poppyseed muffin almost inedibly dry, though the rest was just as good as the majority of the savories – both the brownie and almond pecan scone particularly memorable with soft texture and bold flavors while each of the cookies were far better than those offered at Wonderland Bakery…at less than one-half the cost.
FOUR STARS: Admittedly a bit pricey for a ‘quick casual’ place, yet at the same time far friendlier in service with both produce and proteins sourced from local sources as Chef Church is a regular at the local farmers markets, MTO Café is precisely what Downtown Summerlin visitors should support – a local business committed to doing things right, not another offshoot from elsewhere willing to mail it in and make bank.
RECOMMENDED: Baba ghanoush, Chicken Pot Pie, Truffle Meatloaf, Caramel Salted Brownie.
AVOID: Poppyseed Muffin (though, to be fair, this was a day old by the time I tried it,) and Clam Chowder.
TIP: Open at 9am and offering dinner options from 4pm to close, the rest of the menu available all day.
http://mtocafe.com
