Old School Pizzeria
Garlic Rosemary Knots, Whole Cloves, Garlic Aioli (Half Order)
Vegas Meets Italy – Smoked Mozzarella, Ricotta, Pistachios, China Ranch Dates, Date Cream Sauce, Fresh Arugula, Thin Sliced Prosciutto, Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes
Regina Margherita – Fresh Torn Basil, Fresh Mozzarella, Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes, Tomato Sauce
Cannolis
Located in North Las Vegas, across from Cannery North which is essentially just south of Siberia according to many Las Vegans, Old School Pizzeria had long been bookmarked for a visit, and stopping in after an early movie at Galaxy Theaters I found the small pizzeria just over half full – a couple of folks already enjoying a meal while others awaited to-go orders, an Air Force Squadron from nearby Nellis entering mere moments in my wake.
Small in size and modest in décor, the menu by Gio Mauro written in chalk with locally sourced produce and top-quality purveyors like Mary’s Free Range Chickens featured prominently amidst options both classic and creative, a visit to Old School starts at the counter across from stainless-steel ovens and tempting with several individual orders plus several items to share the only question is where best to invest, my order of one appetizer, a 50/50 small Specialty Pie, and a trio of cannoli tallying just shy of $25 though a mistake in preparation would instead see two full pizzas arrive for the price of just one.
Using only naturally leavened dough, the sort which maintains great stretch and subtle yeast even when nicely charred, it was with a small order of garlic knots that the meal began and with ample butter serving to carry notes of rosemary high on the palate my original skepticism for accompanying “ranch” was quickly dispelled, the rich aioli far lighter than I’d ever expected…though perhaps best avoided for those on a first date as the garlic aromatics are indeed quite profound.
Having mentioned the small hiccup in my half-and-half pie it was after perhaps twenty minutes of surfing free WiFi that the first single-style pizza was served, and quickly offering to make amends with my second choice free of charge it was only at the Pizzaiolo’s insistence that I finally agreed, the Regina Margherita served just fifteen minutes later and offering a whole lot of leftovers eventually gifted to a homeless man out front of Santa Fe Station en route home.
Speaking to the quality of both pies, and beginning with the crust as any great pizza should, one would be hard pressed to name a better electric fired pie outside of Dom DiMarco’s, but with a crust even more crisp yet pliable plus far less ‘branding’ the smoky rim at Old School ups the ante substantially in both texture and taste, a similar compliment offered to boldly acidic tomato sauce virtually devoid of sugar on a Margherita that could have perhaps used a bit more time to melt the cheese, and even moreso to the sweet meets savory “Vegas Meets Italy” that finds fresh arugula providing an apt foil to thinly cut pork plus figs and their infused cream, the pistachios and ample ricotta rounding out textures in each hearty bite.
Limited in desserts, but offering cannolis that they proudly boast as ‘filled to order’ it was without hesitation that a trio was ordered and packed as if to go I assured the young cashier that such a thing would be entirely unnecessary, each crisp shell packed delicately with whipped ricotta and sweet mascarpone on par with those at Naked City for best in the city – a trio costing less than just one soggy pre-filled tube at Carlo’s Bakery on the Strip.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Forgiving the mistake in my order as service recovery went well beyond what was necessary, I’ll officially label myself a convert in naming Old School Pizzeria the best in a city with no lack of designer pies from which to choose. Family owned and operated, without the benefit of a celebrity chef boasting ten ovens or an address including South Las Vegas Boulevard, Old School Pizzeria is the sort of place doing things ‘right,’ each hand crafted pie receiving careful attention and quality ingredients in a less than likely location well worth the drive.
RECOMMENDED: Vegas Meets Italy, Cannoli.
AVOID: Going during peak hours when particularly hungry as wait times are dependent on not only the significant attention to detail, but also the presence of only one oven.
TIP: Offering several rotating specials, many made at the whim of the chef, those looking for something along with their pizza are encouraged to call and inquire, the sausage stuffed wings a hit amongst the military men while the previous day’s ‘nduja and burrata bruschetta is something I’d have ordered without hesitation if available during my stay.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.pizzaoldschool.com/
