Biscuit Love Brunch
Bonuts – Fried Biscuit Dough, Lemon Mascarpone, Blueberry Compote
East Nasty – Biscuit, Fried Chicken Thigh, Aged Cheddar, Sausage Gravy
Gertie – Biscuit, Chocolate Gravy, Peanut Butter, Caramelized Banana Jam, Pretzel Crunch
Lily – Biscuit French Toast, Lemon Mascarpone, Blueberry Compote, House Syrup
Hoping to literally “save the best for last” by visiting Biscuit Love Brunch as our last breakfast in Music City it was just after 7:30am that parking was allocated in front of the space on Saturday, and although the crowd would soon grow to near capacity it was to a line of only two persons that I stepped up after quickly perusing the menu – a trio of ‘biscuits,’ one side, and the restaurant’s signature item arriving hot from the kitchen after a mere ten minute wait.
Considered by some to trend a bit too hip to be taken seriously while fans suggest that Biscuit Love may serve the best buttermilk rounds in the Volunteer State suffice it to say that anything the risen golden circles may lack is more than made up for in creativity as a menu of cleverly named concoctions meet with well sourced and housemade accoutrements, any thoughts of items being overwrought proven mere myths as a surprising degree of dexterity is found amidst even the most decadently topped bites.
Able to sample a taste of plain biscuit by way of the open-faced presentation of East Nasty, the base of all that Biscuit Love has accomplished is certainly a bit different than the more hefty iterations offered at Loveless, Puckett’s, or even Barista Parlor yet taking into account the golden shell atop wispy crumb the batter makes sense when utilized as diversely as the kitchen opts, both the Chicken and Cheddar iteration with Sausage Gravy as well as the version topped more sweetly in chocolate and jam proving absolutely delicious without being the belly bomb that their descriptions may cause one to fear.
Moving next to more novel uses of the dough alongside a small bowl of grits rich with sticky, aged cheese, Lily was the sort of dish that played strongly to my predilections and with the aforementioned lightness of crumb more than happy to soak up custard the steamy French Toast was very well complimented with vibrant lemon and bursting blueberries cooked down in syrup, the same citrus mascarpone packing the cavity of fried biscuit bites entitled ‘bonuts’ that seemed omnipresent at tables throughout the dining room, the lightness of each almost defying logic and proving the sort of thing you may want more than one order of as sharing may induce a later sense of regret.