Island Flavor
Half-Pound Furikake Style Poke
Spam Musubi
Chicken Katsu and Kalua Pig mixed plate
Kalbi Short Ribs and Furikake Shrimp mixed plate
Roast Pork Loco Moco
Banana Bread Pudding
Chantilly Cake
Guava Cake
Haupia Cake
Kona Coffee Ice Cream Mud Pie
No doubt a neophyte regarding Hawaiian culture as well as cuisine it was with two friends that I sat down amidst the spacious confines of Island Flavor for dinner Saturday night, and going in with modest expectations based on what could be gleaned from reviews of those more accustomed the results were at times precisely what I’d hoped for, and occasionally far better than I’d originally been led to believe.
Admittedly at least ‘familiar’ with some of the styles comprising the genre, a number of Asian influences noted amidst fried and roast meats with rich sauces rarely lacking in salt, it was just moments after 5:15 that I entered the sparsely decorated space and with the room half-filled by a mix of ethnicities that included several island natives it would not be long before drinks were filled and menus were navigated, a three-course feast soon to follow as light mid-tempo music echoed from speakers overhead.
Well trained in service, the majority of the staff clearly longtime employees of the restaurant and happy to answer questions related to portions as well as preparation, it was with a duo of cultural staples that the sampling of Island Flavors began, and although neither would have been a preferred order if dining on my own both the snappy tuna and Spam Musubi proved mostly what was anticipated, the former loaded with umami while the later, perhaps fortunately, saw the saline pork product mostly lost within the roll of warm rice.
Warned that portions run large despite costs that hover around $10 per plate, it was onward to three entrees that the evening progressed, and although the fried shrimp were a bit overcooked while the chicken was mostly flavorless without sauce, one would be hard pressed to find any fault in either the smoky shortrib or tender kalua pig, an equally well cooked piece of pork found strewn amidst rice beneath two sunny-side eggs and a rich brown gravy that, on its own, could have likely served a family of four.
Leaving at least four cups of rice behind, along with a few bites of macaroni salad that was actually quite enjoyable with plenty of creaminess packed in each bite, it was with an “all-in” approach that sweets were ordered up, and despite warnings and raised eyebrows from more than one staff-member the finale to follow was almost entirely worth the indulgence, the $5.50 Mud Pie a bit of a disappointment due to gritty ice cream while each cake from nearby Andrea’s was presented at a bargain $5 per large slice, the faintly coconut Haupia not unlike something one might find at a wedding while the chantilly and guava came across sweet yet balanced, the quivering bread pudding taking a far less subtle approach with each banana-packed spoonful making a strong case for best in the city, or at the very least a good reason to come back.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Purporting no expertise in Hawaiian cuisine, but hoping to learn more in the coming months and years, Island Flavor represents a tremendous bargain to those looking for something familiar yet different with service and setting far superior to most eateries broadly grouped as ‘ethnic,’ the desserts a particular strong point even if they are mostly outsourced.
RECOMMENDED: Kalbi Short Ribs, Roast Pork Loco Moco, Banana Bread Pudding, Chantilly Cake.
AVOID: Chicken Katsu, Kona Coffee Ice Cream Mud Pie.
TIP: Daily specials are featured on a paper addition to the menu and change depending on availabilty as well as the Chef’s whim.
ADDITIONAL TIP: As of this writing construction has made a northerly approach somewhat cumbersome, so those planning on a specific arrival time would be well advised to leave a few extra minutes travel time, just to be safe.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.islandflavor808.com/
