Carson Kitchen
The Bee’s Knees – Hana Gin, Fresh Lemon, Smoked Honey
Brewer’s Fix – Hop Head Vodka, Apricot reserves, Fresh Lemon, Simple Syrup, Prosecco
Nilsson Schmilsson – Sugar Island Coconut Rum, Fresh Lime, Basic Simple Syrup, Egg White
Crispy Chicken Skins – Smoked Honey
Bacon Jam – Baked Brie, Toasted Baguette
Devil’s Eggs – Crispy Pancetta, Caviar
Tempura Green Beans – Pepper Jelly Cream Cheese
Veal Meatballs – Sherry Foie Gras Cream
FGT Sliders – Fried Green Tomatoes, Lump Crab Ravigote
Wild Boar Sloppy Joe – Crispy Fennel, Orange Aioli
Halibut – Cava and Grape Juice Beurre Blanc
Bone-In Pork Belly – Stone Fruit Glaze
Peach and Heirloom Tomato – Goat Cheese, Rye Crouton, Saba
Baked Mac & Cheese – Shhhh, it’s a secret
Succotash – Corn, Lima Beans, Peas, Crema Fresca, Cojita
Alligator Gumbo – Andouille Sausage, Pickled Fried Okra
Bourbon Fudge Brownie – Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Glazed Donut Bread Pudding – Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
WineBerry Shortcake – Lavender Cream, Streusel
With the recent passing of Kerry Simon an unfortunate end to the career of one of Las Vegas’ most important chefs it was on a Tuesday afternoon that my family sat down to lunch at Carson Kitchen, and although Cory Harwell has long been the brain behind most of the downtown restaurant’s creations the late summer menu showed the kitchen firing on all cylinders, not one of sixteen plates failing to wow.
Served a number of classics, plus a trio of drinks from which the smoky Bee’s Knees was the best version of the cocktail tasted to date, suffice it to say the bacon jam, green beans, brownie, and mac & cheese all remain reference standard while a few newer items show the sort of creativity not often associated with gastropubs or upscale comfort cuisine, the spicy sloppy joe finding levity in citrus aioli while the Fried Green tomatoes give Yardbird competition for best in the city when crowned in sweet crab ravigote.
Seeing Harwell’s Southern roots in succotash that took a Mexican Street-corn turn through the addition of Cojita, as well as the clever gumbo flatbread with spicy pork and gator finding their foil in pickled okra I’d have gladly eaten like a bowl of popcorn, attention should equally be paid to the supple poached Halibut and a slab of pork belly glazed in sticky stone fruit, the former best described as taking the flaky fish and a wine pairing together in one bite, the results far better than anyone might think.
Disappointed that the seasonal banana pudding has gone into hibernation, but happy to taste an equally competent jar-dessert in the form of mixed berry shortcake that tasted faintly of Merlot amidst lavender and buttery streusel I was additionally happy to find the Bread Pudding far less sugar-laden than prior, the whole meal made better by a soundtrack heavy in 80s-era rock and service that performs the difficult trio of fun, educated, and professional.
FIVE STARS: Originally unsold on Carson Kitchen being as good as the critics have suggested it finally took a visit with persons less culinarily inclined than myself to truly make me appreciate the greatness of Harwell’s work and Simon’s vision; food for ‘everyone’ that offers enough skill and quality to keep food nerds and snobs equally engaged.
RECOMMENDED: The Bees Knees, Halibut, Tempura Green Beans, Bacon Jam, Mac & Cheese, FGT Sliders.
AVOID: Though none is listed in the ingredients, the Brewer’s Fix came across quite ‘beery’ to me.
TIP: Fall menu launches in early November with Harwell’s new concept not too far off.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://carsonkitchen.com
