Metro Pizza on Decatur
Warm Housemade Bread and Butter
Meatball Sliders and Garlic Romano Fries – Housemade Meatballs, Melted Provolone, Soft Garlic Knots with Marinara Sauce
Fried Metro Calzone – Pizza Dough, Ricotta, Mozzarella, Romano Cheese, Spices
The Cicero Stuffed Pizza – Meatballs, Ricotta, Mozzarella
Cannoli, Carrot Cake, Red Velvet Cheesecake, and Chocolate Fudge Layer Cake
Told of a fried calzone that can be special requested whenever owner John Arena is present at any of the Metro Pizza locations, and perhaps occasionally even when he is not, it was on the invitation of the pizza-guru himself that my family stopped by the spot on Decatur for a lunch featuring the crispy golden pockets, a few additional items again proving the high quality of the local chain’s wares.
Decked out with a Mid-80’s Miami Vice sort of vibe, the retro décor apparently demanded by locals who rebelled when an attempt was made to change up the style, it was with greetings from John as well as friendly servers that our group of five was seated in a large round booth in back, more stories of Italy and Metro’s New York roots helping to pass time before the start of a true feast; the well-seasoned fries a bit less crisp that would have been ideal, or perhaps simply just less memorable than a quintet of delicious meatballs atop soft garlic knots and the restaurant’s complimentary housemade bread.
Ordering a stuffed pizza but told that the customized calzones would indeed arrive first, it was admittedly a bit shocking when three of the folded-pies landed at the center of our table, each large enough to feed two-to-three adults all on its lonesome with a crunchy shell giving way to a molten cheese center, the flavor of ricotta particularly prominent even when dunked in a sidecar of meat sauce with each bite far lighter than one ever would have guessed.
Requesting one of the trio be packed to go, a reheated calzone reportedly proving more than palatable per a reliable friend, it was next to The Cicero that eyes were turned and as much as a pasta-filled iteration was a fun bit of novelty just a few weeks prior the meatball and ricotta-stuffed double-crust was even more decadent, the execution impressing not just those of us calling Las Vegas and Ohio home but also those visiting from the Windy City land of Giordano’s.
Missing out on Metro’s desserts during the seminar on Sky Pointe, and almost too full under these circumstances to indulge once again, it was at John’s insistence that a platter of pastry arrived last, the crisp cannoli rivaling some of Sin City’s best while both the chocolate and carrot cake were as elegant as those served full-fledged bakeries, the cheesecake simply too at this point to be enjoyed past more than a bite.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: A bit dated on first glimpse, the explanation from John helping to explain décor that dates to my childhood, Metro on Decatur may not be as ‘fancy’ as the one up North, but with food just as good it seems John’s formula remains in skilled hands even outside the Flagship, future visits to other locations soon to come.
RECOMMENDED: Baked Calzones are almost as good as the special-request fried ones, though it never hurts to ask as John or someone familiar with the technique may be around…otherwise get The Cicero and a slice each of Carrot and Cheesecake – enough to feed a family of 4+.
AVOID: Garlic Romano Fries were a bit oily, though I’m certainly no expert and others at the table seemed to enjoy them more.
TIP: Cheesecakes, all baked at Lu-Lu’s, vary, the current Red Velvet soon to change befitting the season,
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://metropizza.com/location
