Other Mama
Kinmedai – Shaved Caviar, Orange Zest, Fennel, Sea Salt
Live Octopus Carpaccio with Cilantro, Peppers, Onions, Garlic, House Ponzu, Sesame Oil
Lobster Chawanmushi with Lobster, Lobster Mushrooms, Lobster Gravy, Tempura Shiso
Blue Crab, Caviar, Asparagus Hand Roll
Caviar & French Toast – Crème Fraiche
Oyster Foie Rockefeller
Shrimp & Jalapeño Hush Puppies
Togarashi Waffle Fries with Miso Hollandaise
Pork Belly Kim Chi Fried Rice – Wild Mushroom, Fried Egg
Japanese Cheesecake with Blackberry Puree
Miso Honey Ice Cream
Successful in the rare trifecta of wowing critics, Yelpers, and even his fellow chefs ever since opening the doors it was nonetheless with modest expectations that a ‘challenge,’ of sorts, from Chef Dan Krohmer was accepted, his suggestion to sit in front of him at the sushi bar for a tour of Other Mama’s menu showing not only the sort of sourcing and creativity rarely seen in the Southwest suburbs, but also a man truly dedicated to his craft.
Repeatedly praised for elaborate mixology and oysters that outperform their modest price, it was admittedly a general blasé for both that contributed to an avoidance of the spot for so long despite its accolades, and communicating exactly that to the 35-year owner it was with some of the best restaurant tunes in Sin City playing that I sat back in the comfort of a high-backed chair and placed the experience in his hands.
Raised in a small American mining town but finding his passion for sushi in the mid-teens with subsequent training ranging from Northern California all the way to Japan those who are lucky enough to chat with Krohmer will find him to be a humble and straightforward sort with plenty of opinions, anecdotes, and amusing perceptions about dining out and starting with fresh fishes brought in daily from purveyors harnessed through work with Morimoto and others the meal began with meaty slices of Golden Eye Snapper topped in orange zest and compressed caviar, the fattiness of the mild fish providing a silky mouthfeel while the accents rode high on the palate in complimentary fashion as not to overwhelm.
Certainly not an AYCE spot with rolls dripping in God-knows-what, Dan’s most ‘saucy’ plate was a carpaccio of nerve-intact octopus straight from Japan and slicing it razor thin with a warm topping of ponzu and aromatic vegetables the flavor was exceedingly complex yet not at all fussy, a similar compliment due for the steamed jar of custard that simultaneously roused thoughts of lobster bisque with more texture and more traditional chawanmushi with more nuance, the shiso an inspired addition that played well off the mushroom-based umami.
Treated next to a handroll that really couldn’t fail by matching sweet blue crab to caviar with late-season asparagus added for crunch it was onward to demi-portions of some of Other Mama’s signatures that the Omakase marched on, the caviar French Toast a clever little bite that appeals to my well-documented breakfast proclivities while the meal’s lone oyster replaced butter with foie gras in an otherwise classic preparation that had me wishing for another piece of toast to soak up the liver infused liquor.
Rounding out the meal with three fried items, certainly a bit more hearty than the meal’s light start, it serves as a testament to the skill of the staff that each one still far outperformed what might be expected as the hushpuppies were so lightly oiled that they could have easily passed for baked while the crispy hand-cut fries were better than any served at some Strip steakhouse, both sauces also quite memorable, particularly the miso-lightened Hollandaise, as was a sizable bowl of fried rice with generous slices of pork belly set against a backdrop of woodsy mushrooms and modestly heated housemade kimchee.
At first sort of surprising that desserts are made in house, at least until I had talked to Chef Krohmer and realized he’d have it no other way, suffice it to say that those looking for a sweeter cheesecake will likely find the one at Other Mama a bit flat while the texture could stand to be a bit more creamy, but admitting that the ice creams are made with nothing more than at $200 Kitchen-Aid the smarter money is no doubt on one of the four or five daily options, in this case the oft-praised Miso-Honey proving to be one of the very best scoops in the city and a veritable steal at just two dollars for something so subtly sweet and creamy.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: In so many ways the perfect answer to the question of what sort of restaurant Las Vegas NEEDS it is only the small size of the kitchen at Other Mama and relative limitations of such that are holding Krohmer and his team back from being a true destination sort of place, although perhaps that is actually a good thing considering too much more praise may make it difficult to get a seat.
RECOMMENDED: Live Octopus Carpaccio, Lobster Chawanmushi, Caviar & French Toast, Pork Belly Kimchee Fried Rice, Miso Honey Ice Cream.
AVOID: Admitting a pronounced sweet tooth I would have preferred a sweeter cheesecake and more dessert options in general, though a run through the rest of the ice creams is assuredly going to take place next time.
TIP: Beginning Happy Hour this coming week, starting at 4pm, what more incentive do you need to go?
http://www.othermamalv.com/
