Carson Kitchen
Try Something New – Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Watermelon Puree, Contratto Bitters Liqueur, Basil Simple Syrup, Ginger Beer
Crispy Chicken Skins – Smoked Honey
Bacon Jam – Baked Brie, Toasted Baguette
Purple Haze – George Dickle Rye, St. Elder Liqueur, Fresh Lemon, Mint, Blueberry Preserves
BBQ Burnt Ends – House Pickles, Highbrow Ranch, White Bread
Spiced Watermelon – Feta, Cucumber, Tajin
Sneaky Tiki – Avua Prata Cachaca, Licor 43, Pineapple, Fresh Lime, Coriander Simple Syrup
Hawaiian Flatbread – Spiced Rum Pineapple, Tasso Ham
Falafel Sliders – Cucumbers, Yogurt, Halloumi
Thai One On – Whistling Andy Hibiscus Coconut Rum, Green Tea, Egg White, Lemongrass Simple Syrup, Thai Bitters
Sea Bass – Charred Lemon, Herbed Greens
Rabbit Ragu – Spaghetti Squash, Parmesan
Peas & Carrots – Shallot Butter, White Wine
Potato Skins – Fried Bologna, Sour Cream
Strawberry Pie – Harry’s Berries, Licor 43 Whipped Cream, Crème Anglaise
Glazed Donut Bread Pudding – Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
Bourbon Fudge Brownie – Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Preparing to launch a new venture in just two weeks Simon Hospitality Group no doubt has their work cut out for them in reinventing Firefly to Standard & Pour, but continuing to show a degree of creativity often reserved for restaurants nearly twice the size (and price) in far more flashy environs, Carson Kitchen has perhaps produced its finest menu yet for Summer 2016.
Now the third menu co-produced by Cory Harwell and John Courtney, the latter bringing a lifetime of overseas training and technique to Harwell’s own worldly view of elevated comfort food honed under the late Kerry Simon, little has changed in the setting of a now two-year old space in the old Carson Building off 6th Street, the servers and bartenders still a fun mix of personalities dressed casually in T-shirts with a sense of professionalism and hospitality that never fails to surprise.
Always a bustling space both afternoon and late, the soundtrack on this particular visit vacillating between Radiohead and The Flaming Lips, it was a cozy four-top adjacent the pass that the party was seated and taking cues from Chef Courtney on both inspiration and preparation a five course meal featuring a baker’s dozen plates plus four cocktails and coffee was offered, not one item falling short of eliciting amusement and broad smiles.
Now beginning to integrate even more kitchen concepts into cocktails, and as such legitimately able to pair drinks from the “Shaken & Stirred” section to each round of plates, Beverage Director Matthew Harwell explained the “Try Something New” as a second take at Mezcal that the local market appears resistant to embracing, the smoky notes folded into herbs and fruit with a lightly astringent finish that was well placed in contrast to the salt and sapor of Chicken Skins and Bacon Jam, the two menu fixtures at this point an essential part of every Carson Kitchen visit.
Still proudly promoting many aspects of “The Rock n’ Roll Chef” moniker earned by Simon, “Purple Haze” making Whiskey palatable to even the most conservative palate by softening the blow with Lemon, Mint and Blueberries, course two was perhaps the best embodiment of Southern Summer seen in Sin City, the Spiced Watermelon cubes first leaning Mediterranean then Hispanic by way of crumbled Cheese and Tajin, the “BBQ Burnt Ends” made by a bit of trickery as there is no smoker in the tiny kitchen, the White Bread and House Pickles requisite for anyone with experience in Kansas City, Georgia or Texas while the “Highbrow Ranch” played tongue-in-cheek regarding the creamy mixture of fresh Dill and Buttermilk.
Again looking at various spheres of influence for course three, the “Sneaky Tiki” eschewing Rum in favor of Brazilian Cachaca and smooth Spanish Licor 43 with Citrus and Coriander, Falafel Sliders presented tender patties on a soft bun with seared Halloumi and Yogurt, the “Hawaiian Flatbread” described as the “best Hawaiian Pizza ever” by one member of the table – admittedly low-hanging fruit all things considered, but an assessment no one tasting the charred salt and sweetness could refute.
Having mentioned that the previous cocktail’s smooth mouthfeel almost resembled a flip, Thai One On went one further by actually adding Eggwhite to a Coconut Rum and Green Tea backbone, the lingering spiciness helping to cleanse the palate between bites of simple Branzino dressed in nothing more than Olive Oil and Lemon Juice alongside roulades of Rabbit stuffed with Forcemeat plus hollowed out Potatoes with Fried Balogna and confit Peas and Carrots enlivened by Butter-seared Shallots.
Failing to remember that Carson Kitchen does indeed offer Coffee, just not Espresso or fancier stuff, dessert once again saw Harwell’s boozy Brownie and Bread Pudding rolled out next to an entirely new Summertime offering created by the Pastry Chef and John Courtney, the delicate Pie filled with Pudding-thick Crème Anglaise nicely balanced by Vanilla and Citrus notes from Licor 43 plus California’s very best Strawberries.
FIVE STARS: Continuing to collect accolades ever since opening, Carson Kitchen has once again managed to elevate its game for Summer 2016, the team of John Courtney and Cory Harwell to this point a perfect blend of skill, creativity and sourcing executing at as high a level as any of America’s best “gastropubs.”
RECOMMENDED: Purple Haze, Sneaky Tiki, BBQ Burnt Ends, Peas & Carrots, Potato Skins, Rabbit Ragu, Strawberry Pie.
AVOID: Forgetting all the Classics, particularly the Chicken Skins that are now better than ever thanks to poultry sourcing of a pasture-raised bird from Arkansas’ Crystal Lake Farms.
TIP: Look for more, soon, as Simon Hospitality Group’s Standard & Pour is slated to open Soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://carsonkitchen.com/
