Chica
Watermelon Lemonade
Amaybamba Cusco Peru – French Press for 2
Grilled Peruvian Octopus – Grilled Octopus, Crispy Quinoa, Aji Amarillo Sauce, Blistered Shishito Peppers, Spicy Guasacaca Pico
Eggs & Grits – California Red Flint Grits, Farm Fresh Eggs, Housemade Chorizo, Fire Roasted Peppers, Smoky Tomato Ragu
Sweet Corn Pancakes – Fresh Berries, Whipped Coconut Cream, Agave Syrup
Chicken & Waffle – Marinated Rotisserie Chicken, Peruvian Peppers, Housemade 5-Spice Waffle, Agave Syrup
Lemon Donuts – Wild Berry Compote, White Chocolate Dulce de Leche
Dulce de Leche French Toast – Custard Dipped Challah Bread, Macerated Fresh Berries, Dulce de Leche Drizzle, Fresh Whipped Cream
Espresso Filled Churros – Cinnamon Dusted Mexican Donuts, Espresso Cream, Marinated Cherries
Tres Leches Dulce de Leche – Traditional Three Milks Cake, Toasted Meringue, Exotic Fruit Pico
Unimpressed by Db Brasserie from the start, the eventual shutter little more than a protracted death march after the kitchen switched Chefs in an attempt to recover from the mistake of treating Las Vegas as if it was a one-off town willing to settle for a mish-mash greatest hits compilation rather than an original idea, it was with high hopes that the space could shine under the management of 50Eggs that friends and family was attended at Chica, the service an unmitigated disaster even for a trial run while the food was mostly good, though much showed room for improvement.
Fresh off of almost unprecedented success with Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, not even a couple of changes in the kitchen slowing business for a restaurant that remains full at nearly two-and-a-half-years in, Chica is touted to “give guests the opportunity to explore the flavors of Latin American cuisine as one culture” with a menu from Lorena Garcia featuring “influences from Venezuela, Peru, Brazil, Mexico, and Argentina, among many more,” the decision to hire former Border Grill Chef Mike Minor to head a restaurant “boasting the first Latina chef on the Las Vegas Strip” seemingly an odd choice regardless his skills.
Now open just over six weeks, presumably enough time to iron out most kinks when considering the fact that Yardbird was on-point from week one, Saturday Brunch saw Chica at perhaps 25% capacity while its sister property was predictably out the door, the hostess at the podium retrieving a reservation as if she was surprised before handing three guests off to another young woman who led them through a maze of obstacles to a table against the back-right wall.
Featuring a Full-bar, Ceviche station and Rotisserie/Grilling area amidst stylish décor dotted in pots, books, plants and metal sculptures, the music overhead ranging from Shakira and Santana to older Mexican ballads, it was shortly after sitting that a young woman approached the table with a cocktail list, menus and three types of Coffee, a lengthy description of their origins and flavor notes apparently commanding $12 for a two-person French Press featuring an admittedly smooth brew out of Peru with subdued spice and lingering fruity notes.
Opting to defer menu choices to Chef Minor, only the Octopus, Tres Leches and a Watermelon-infused Lemonade for the youngster specifically requested, it was after greetings from Mike as well as the daytime Manager that the meal got underway, the “Grilled Peruvian Octopus” quite undercooked and thus rubbery despite being well flavored, the Shishito Peppers actually stealing the spotlight as they were served charred but not too spicy amidst toasted Grains and Yellow Pepper Sauce.
Perhaps making a mistake in returning for Brunch, the limitations of a this meal frequently stressed by in-the-know diners, it was by plate two that trouble was first sensed, the “California Red Flint Grits” with Eggs, Chorizo and Tomato Ragu about as ‘Latin’ as the Shrimp n’ Grits next-door while the Chicken & Waffle seemed unapologetically ridiculous considering not only Yardbird but Chica’s theme…even a nine year-old wondering aloud if people eat Waffles in Mexico, before also pointing out that although the Chicken was “really juicy,” the Waffle was “too dry.”
Finding the sweet half of the menu a bit more interesting than savories, though a thin stack of Johnny Cakes with Berries and Cream has a long way to go before matching those at HeXX, Lorena’s “Award Winning” Lemon Donuts were offered gratis by Chef Minor before moving on to the meal’s three best plates, the crispy Churros piped with Espresso Cream alongside Cherries soaked in Syrup a suitable replacement for those previously offered at Art of Flavors as Las Vegas’ best while the lighter-than-it-sounds French Toast with Dulce de Leche Drizzle is a great share-plate for just $14, especially since most will have no interest in sharing the sopping wet Tres Leches Cake served in a bowl with plenty of sweetened Milk and a topping of Toasted Meringue that is mellowed out my diced Fruit and Tajin.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Though none but the Octopus was really ‘bad,’ nothing about Chica warrants a special trip, and if Daniel Boulud failed in this space for trying to create a mash-up of all of his successful New York Restaurants what makes 50 Eggs think they will succeed with an equally ‘by committee’ menu of Latin/South America? Decent but far from great, it would do 50 Eggs a world of good to step back and rethink offering items like Chicken & Waffles or Grits when both can be found next door in a more accessible manner while also embracing the sort of cooking Mike proved capable of at Border Grill.
RECOMMENDED: French Toast, Tres Leches, Churros.
AVOID: Octopus, French Press Price (and shame on servers for not making customers aware of the $5 freely-refillable house blend.)
TIP: The full dessert menu is available during Lunch, Brunch and Dinner…and for those dining during Brunch, remember, Yardbird is right next door with Mama’s Buttermilk Biscuits and Chess Pie with Chantilly Cream ready to go.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
https://www.venetian.com/restaurants/chica.html
