Locanda
Grilled Pizza Bianca
Grilled Pizza Bianca with house mortadella and pickled ramps
Rigatoni alla Carbonara – Guanciale, Tully Doici Egg, Pecorino, Black Pepper
Pancetta-Wrapped Guinea Hen Leg – White Polenta, Grilled Turnips
Flavorosa Pluot Almond Torta – Blueberry Swirl Buffala Gelato, Nebbiolo Plum Sauce
Admittedly sampling the Cal-Italian scene heavily on most of my trips to The Bay Area and having found greatness to be more consistent here than elsewhere in the States it was the largely the Roman style of cuisine that originally piqued my interest in Locanda and after several intriguing afternoon sessions at the conference my Monday double-feature dinner would take me back to the Mission where always beckon but the early-summer menu could not be ignored. Open just fifteen minutes when I arrived and as yet unfilled it was in the warm sun of the front window that I opted to sit and although the long, narrow space was amped up with unnecessary music the room never grew too loud – a serene effect unlike that of Delfina, Cotagna, or A16 despite the high ceilings and substantial wood. Seemingly a bit more of a ‘locals’ place than other highly praised places of the ilk it would not be long after seating that my menu was delivered and chatting up the charming server about several indecisions an order was placed – her recommendations matching my predispositions letter for letter and leaving me in wait as I grazed on glistening pillows of warm bread with a second board soon arriving draped in nutty peppered pork invigorated by bright pickled ramps. Already impressed by the charcuterie it was within moments of my finishing the mortadella that my al dente primi arrived and although pre-mixed in the kitchen with yolk already beginning to thicken the quality of the guanciale could not be ignore, a small portion going a long way and leaving ample room for the substantial secondi of force-meat stuffed leg beneath crisp pork atop toothsome polenta sopping up the bird’s juices. Never one to skimp on sweets but in this rare case with eyes on my appetite’s future it was between a duo of selections that I debated and again turning tableside for recommendations my assumption proved true, a rich almond and cornmeal cake as soft as pudding arriving five minutes later with slight grassy notes from the gelato proving a deft foil to sweet stone fruits.
RECOMMENDED: Apparently a famous dish frequent to the menu with seasonal variants the Guinea Hen should not be missed.
AVOID: Even had the pasta not been underportioned for the price I contest that a proper carbonara should be mixed tableside – preferably by the diner.
TIP: Reservations seemed unnecessary at first but by the time I left at 6:40 every seat was filled…even on a Monday.
http://www.locandasf.com/
