Hedone
Beet Root Cone – Beet Foam, Smoked Dill
Fermented Rye Crisp, Old Winchester Sour Cream
Fermented Buckwheat Crisp, Bone Marrow, Sturgeon Caviar
Poached Oyster with Apple Foam, Apple Gelee, Violet
Umami Flan – Bread Crumbs, Brown Bread Custard
Bread and Butter
Scottish Hand Dug Dived Scallop Sashimi, Cucumber, Seaweed, Japanese Emulsion
Mediterranean Tomato Variation, Dill and Mustard – Gazpacho and Sorbet
Turbot – Broad Beans, Fennel, Vinaigrette Supreme
Lobster – Sea Weed, Coral Sauce
Liquid Parmesan Ravioli, Smoked Onion Consomme, Mild Horseradish, Smoked Pancetta
Black Angus – Sirloin, Carrots, Onion, Beef Emulsion, Vegetable Vin Jaune
English Strawberries, Meringue, Hibiscus, Coconut Sorbet, Lemon Cream
Warm Chocolate, Powdered Raspberry, Passion Fruit Jelly, Madagascar Vanilla Ice Cream Pudding
White Chocolate Macaron with Apricot Butter and Lime Bon Bon
Caramel
Located in the Chiswick area of West London and the recipient of considerable praise plus one 2013 Michelin Star a visit to Chef Mikael Jonsson’s Hedone was amongst the most anticipated of my recent trip and although a trek through rain soaked streets may have dampened the experience in the literal sense it was the Chef and his team who figuratively did so as I dined carte blanche at the counter. Considered by local enthusiasts to be perhaps London’s best gastronomic experience with a strong focus on sourcing and subtle manipulation of the season’s very best it should be said from the start that a visit to Hedone is quite unlike the refined spaces of the UK’s top tier and although strikingly casual to the point where children were allowed to tantrum at tables the service was far too rudimentary even for that, a clear frustration to Chef and Maitre D’ who more than once snapped at staff eventually leading one young woman to break down in tears. Moving past the mood, one clearly stemming from a stone-faced chef who twice praised himself as being of “considerable skill” before lecturing me as to why a piece of stringy beef was “in fact, perfect” I can honestly say that much of what I tasted from the kitchen at Hedone was actually quite good yet even as both the vibrant tomatoes and opaline turbot wowed with precision before a briny ravioli in a broth of sweet smoke blew me away I simply cannot fathom a reason to return or recommend spending 180 minutes in a space so lacking in service or spirit no matter how ‘considerable’ the skill or serious about the craft.
RECOMMENDED: Offering three menus at lunch service the carte blanche certainly offers the best value provided you are comfortable following the chef’s whim. Overall the kitchen seems to handle fish quite well so for those opting for shorter menus this should be an area of focus.
AVOID: The beef was tough, especially compared to a very similar presentation of high quality aged sirloin at Saison just two weeks prior.
TIP: Much like the rest of Europe bottled water carries an upcharge but here at Hedone I was actually ‘scolded’ by my server for requesting tap – his statement something along the lines of pure ingredients warranting quality beverages after I’d already declined wine.
http://www.hedonerestaurant.com/
