Della’s Kitchen
Coffee
Buttermilk Biscuits – Local Aged Cheddar, Smoked Bacon, Whipped Butter
Cinnamon Pecan Roll
Croque Madame – Black Forest Ham, Gruyere, Mornay, Crispy Hash Browns
Custard Pancake with Vanilla Butter
Pecan Raisin French Toast – Granello’s Cinnamon-Raisin Brioche, Caramelized Banana, Coconut Butter
Chicken and Waffles with Smoky Bacon
Located in the recently rebranded “The Delano” at Mandalay Bay, a 9:00am breakfast at Della’s Kitchen proved to be just-the-thing after attempted brunch at Ri Ra went belly up, the “historic farmhouse meets urban kitchen” serving up a two-course, six item feast amidst soaring ceilings as passers-by looked on. Formerly known as THEcafe, with upgraded décor befitting any number of farm-to-table spots in the current culinary landscape, it was quickly upon checking-in at the podium that we were seated at a large 4-top and, although servers proved a bit overzealous to take orders while coffee and water refills languished, it would require a whole lot of nit-picking to find any fault in the cuisine. Beginning first with a triplet of tiny biscuits that wowed with complex flavors amidst softly separating layers it was onward to sweeter things that we soon progressed and, although the fluffy pancake was itself quite pleasant, it was the spiraled pecan pastry that stole the spotlight – a veritable deep-dish pecan pie beset on all sides by the buttery cinnamon roll. So far impressed it was fast-on-the-heels of appetizers that our entrees arrived and although artificial ‘pancake syrup’ slightly marred the experience one would be hard pressed to pick a winner amongst the three, the savory open-faced ham sandwich adrift in creamy Mornay atop toasty bread while the custard-soft French Toast and supple waffle beneath a crispy brined breast were each reference standard, the later amongst the best found in Las Vegas to date.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Commanding a pricetag commiserate to its location, and open with the full menu offered as early as 6:30am, Della’s Kitchen is a welcome addition to the local breakfast scene and the sort of place I can see only getting better with time. Already cooking at a high level with ingredients including a lot of local produce, organic meats, plus breads from Granello Bakery I find it rather disappointing that syrup was not pure and that service is not yet up to snuff, but with a few small tweaks this is a place that could finally represent not only a good breakfast to those confined to the south end of The Strip, but one worth traveling to.
RECOMMENDED: Chicken and Waffles, Pecan Raisin French Toast, Cinnamon Pecan Roll.
AVOID: Pancake was run-of-the-mill, syrup is artificial, coffee is tepid and slow to fill despite the $5.50 tab.
TIP: Located along the major walking route connecting The Delano to Mandalay Bay seating places the majority of diners in direct view of those passing by – a great people-watching opportunity to some, but not particularly favored by others. Those wishing for a more secluded breakfast would be well served to request a seat along the wall closest to The Delano where pillars, banquets, and booths offer a break in the lines of sight.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.delanolasvegas.com/dining/dellas-kitchen.aspx
