Ku Noodle
Thai Iced Tea
Snow Pea Leaf Salad – Orange, Lily Bulb Petals, Mint, Walnut
Lucky 12 – Shrimp & Pork Siu Mai with Jicama, Mushroom, Peanut / Pork & Scallop Siu Mai with Bamboo, Shiitake Mushroom, Sesame / Chicken & Cloud Ear Mushroom Siu Mai with Goji Berries, Oyster Sauce, Soy Sauce / Huhhot Siu Mai with Lamb, Cumin, Scallion, Onion
Crispy Bao Bun – Pork, Pickled Vegetable, Peanuts, Cilantro
“Strange Wonders of Shaanxi” – Wheatbelt Noodle, Braised Lamb, Pickled Daikon, Cumin
Congee – Chinese Sausage, Lily and Lotus Bulbs, Chickpea, Peanut, Poached Egg
Malted Milk Taiwanese Shaved Ice with Almond Jelly, Caramelized Peanuts, Crunchy Chocolate Pearls, Caramel
No stranger to Chef Jose Andres or the concepts born from thinkfoodgroup it was with great curiosity that I entered Ku Noodle on Saturday evening and with a menu largely selected by GM Ceilidh Lamont along with her team in kitchen I’m happy to say my expectations were exceeded. Sparsely decorated but brightly lit, with white porcelain and leather beset by mirrors on both sides, it was just after 5pm that I found myself seated at a table near the back of the space and soon greeted by the first of several servers I couldn’t help but be impressed, each smiling face possessing both knowledge and opinions on the cuisine plus a whimsical professionalism far too infrequently seen in Casino dining these days. Beginning first with dark tea liberally sweetened by coconut milk alongside a light salad, vibrant with mint playing off the sweetness of peeled orange segments, it would not be long before the table was flooded with heavier hitting flavors and presented as a four-part feast the only question was where to start – an answer soon found in the appropriately named “Lucky 12” and its four triplets of innovative Siu Mai as each delicate wrapper was stuffed to bursting with poignant flavors set against accoutrements including tobiko, goji berry, and even gold leaf. Not to be outdone by dim sum the next bites of Ku were of the signature noodles and although future visits will be required to sample other styles I have to say the texture of the thick wheatbelt variety speaks volumes, each tender bite teaming with spice in a broth rendered from lamb neck as pickled radish helped to temper the spice. Having already heard good things about the bao and happy to confirm that the fist-sized umami-bomb on deep-fried bun is every bit as delicious as its ingredient profile would indicate it was finally in lowly congee that I indulged and although most will eschew such a pedestrian option in a place like this suffice it to say that this is not your mom n’ pop rice porridge, the silky stock itself teaming with vibrant spices and all the better for bites imbued with egg, tender vegetables, peanuts, and a whole lot of funk-meets-sweet meat. At this point quite sated but unable to resist dessert described as ‘can’t miss’ by nearly everyone in the restaurant my final decision of the evening was which of the eight flavors of Taiwanese Shaved Ice to choose and eventually opting for Malted Milk with a trio of toppings plus one sauce I’ll simply say that anyone who thinks Snowflake is ‘amazing’ needs to stop by The SLS ASAP, the $9 bowl more than enough for two to share with rich flavor amidst a stunning texture that you are actually encouraged to experience with chopsticks in order to focus on each snowy crystal…at least until you give into temptation and grab a spoon to fully indulge in a mouthful and never look back until scraping the bowl clean.
FOUR STARS: Undoubtedly facing an uphill battle in a city where cheap meats and ramen shops speckle Spring Mountain Road, Ku Noodle presents an upscale option for those willing to invest in quality ingredients, innovation, and presentation. Perhaps my favorite thinkfoodgroup experience to date, outside of ‘e,’ every single plate at Ku Noodle proves Chef Andres dedication to both quality and creativity while the staff is every bit as well trained, efficient, and pleasant as that at Bazaar – something you surely aren’t going to find on Spring Mountain where service is often an afterthought, at best.
RECOMMENDED: Taiwanese Shaved Ice, Crispy Bao Bun, Congee.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: With most plates presented in sharing portions those looking to maximize their experience are advised to bring a friend (or 4,) but for those dining solo a “Lucky 8” version of the Lucky 12 is offered on request and although ‘half portions’ are not yet available there is talk of a tasting menu to come.
DISCLAIMER: Having relied on the culinary team and Ms. Lamont to craft my menu after originally speaking with the GM during her pre-promotion tenure at The Griddle Café my meal did include a few uncharged items, a 50% tip left to try and compensate for the team’s unexpected generosity.
http://slslasvegas.com/dining/ku-noodle#!
