El Sombrero
Housemade chips and salsa
Sangria Trio – Blushing Senorita: Watermelon, Lime, Mint, Rose / Roja: Red Apples, Orange Wedges, Strawberries, Red Wine / Blanco: Orange, Green Apples, Bay Leaf, Chardonnay
Quesillo Fondue Mexicano – Mexican Cheeses, Hormiga Sauce, Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Flour Tortillas
Spicy Calamari a la brasa – Squid Ink, Citrus Jalapeno charbroiled calamari
Parrilladas Del Patron- Grilled Filet Mignon, Rib Eye, Costillitas, Mexican Cream Corn, Portabellos, Papas Criollas with Ancho Chile Steak Sauce, Chimichurri Sauce, Hormiga Sauce
Tamal de Pollo – braised and seasoned shredded chicken, roasted garlic creamy tomatillo sauce
Mole Semana Santa – Roasted Chicken in traditional Mexican spicy Chocolate Sauce
Bread Pudding – dulce de leche
Re-inventing Las Vegas’ former ‘oldest restaurant’ into an upscale “bistro” helmed by Chef Oscar Sanchez it was with high hopes of Latin cuisine rivaling that found in New Mexico or Arizona that plans were made to dine at El Sombrero and although a rude welcome by the woman who turned out to be the restaurant’s owner put an early damper on the experience the food, service, and setting that followed were nothing short of first-rate. Joined by two others, one well known to the restaurant, for a lunch beginning just shy of noon it was amidst the cozy modernized confines of a room suited for less than fifty that the meal commenced and with free-flowing tortillas hot and crisp from the kitchen flanked by aromatic salsa not overburdened by heat a strong attention to detail was obvious from the start.
Generally underwhelmed by Sangria, but told that El Sombrero’s was far better than the average grog, a ‘one of each’ sampling immediately proved the point as bright balance and bold aromatics nuanced each of the infusions and with a duo of strong starters soon to arrive the dominant fruit tones were a welcomed refresher between bites – the creamy Quesillo offering subtle hints of smoke when matched to the Roja while tender ringlets of squid bathed in a murky broth teaming with citrus and spice proved every bit the ‘signature’ starter that many have claimed – a similar paella presentation apparently offered for special events immediately piquing interest for a future visit with several other options offered for groups as large as sixteen.
Transitioning next to a platter of meats traditionally offered only at dinner suffice it to say that the Parrilladas Del Patron is more than enough to feed two assuming starters are ordered and although the pork short ribs proved a bit too fatty to be fully enjoyed both of the beef options were impressively tender and spiced only enough to let the quality of the meet shine – a similar compliment offered to tender mushrooms while sides of crispy potatoes, tender beans, and pan-scalded corn in light cream were no less than superb.
Certainly a bigger fan of tamales than either of my dining buddies, albeit a bit let down that the restaurant was currently out of brisket, there is no doubt in my mind that Oscar’s Tamal de Pollo is the least heavy-handed I’ve tasted to date and with garlic tinged tomatillo sauce melding nicely to the sweet corn it was the roasted chicken that truly made the plate shine, a statement almost equally well suited to the tender-roast bird beneath the sort of mole uncommonly seen at all but the most authentic of spots, a ‘dirty’ dark sauce teaming with spice with only the slightest cocoa linger as opposed to the sugar-sweet chocolate syrup popularized by more Americanized spots.
Finishing the afternoon with the restaurant’s only daily dessert, a pleasant bread pudding with silky-soft texture doused in dulce de leche, it was once again here that Chef Sanchez arrived tableside to make sure all was well and with compliments and thanks paid to the chef and servers any lamenting the closure of the original El Sombrero should find consolation in the fact that sometimes the right team really can teach an old dog some new tricks.
FOUR STARS: Apparently mistaking me for some sort of fool, competitor, or otherwise unwelcomed person I still cannot get over just how accusatory the tone of owner Irma Aguirre was when I was seen taking pictures in the parking lot, nor how her tone changed when our VIP friend joined. Using the explanation that she could “provide professional photos” as there were “a lot of people coming by and uploading lousy pictures because the place was so new” I’d suggest anyone so sensitive to such things immediately implement a no-photos policy and stop reading the reviews as somewhat higher-than-average prices are unlikely to set well with everyone, no matter how good ingredients or food.
RECOMMENDED: Spicy Calamari a la brasa, Bread Pudding, Mole Semana Santa, Cream Corn.
AVOID: Pork Short Ribs were too tough and the rice accompanying each plate was largely forgettable compared to other sides which ranged from good to truly exemplary.
TIP: Currently offering paella only for private events and on Wednesday nights with a small selection of breakfast items available on weekends Chef Sanchez promised several surprises, specials, and menu evolutions to come, though hopefully the social media will broadcast these things in advance since the website is as yet unfinished, at best.
http://www.elsombrerovegas.com/
