Patina
Miso Panna Cotta with Yuzu Foam, Kumquat with Olive Tapanade, Scallop Crudo with Lemon Crème Friche and Grapefruit
Olive, Baguette, Epi with Salted Butter
Capellini Pasta – Osetra Caviar, Celtuce, Citrus Vinaigrette, Fines Herbes
63C Duck Egg – Tea Smoked Duck Breast, Potato Puree, Maitake Mushroom, Earl Grey Broth
Seared Foie Gras – Raisin, Toasted Brioche, Peanut Sauce au Chocolat Blanc
Butter Poached Lobster – Bone Marrow Mousse, Shimeji Mushroom, Salsify, Lobster Nage
John Dory – Parsley Coulis, Cauliflower Couscous, Caviar-Champagne Veloute
Rabbit Degustation – Bacon Wrapped Loin, Shoulder Lasagna, Pickled Turnip, Charred Brussels Sprouts, Riesling Sauce
Beef Tenderloin – Shishito Pepper, Horseradish Mustard, Bernaise Potato Compression, Bordelaise
Artisinal Cheese Selection with Condiments and Fruit Bread, Baguette
Lime Posset – Peanut Nougatine, Ginger Chiffon, Thai Chili Foam, Kafir Lime Ice Cream
Warm Fig Compote – Hazelnut Financier, Lavender Chiboust, Honey Ice Cream
Madeline, Macaroon, Sesame Seed Chocolate Ganache
Double Espresso over Ice
Long residing on the Los Angeles culinary ‘to-do’ list it was mostly at the recommendation of a friend that reservations were made for three at 8:30pm and entering the Walt Disney Concert Hall attached space precisely on time it was with warm smiles and exemplary service that our party was greeted before being led to a center-room table – it was also the last of any exemplary service to be found throughout an evening where food shined, but shoddy service and extremely slow pacing extended eight proper courses to four hours that felt even longer than that.
Currently toqued by Paul Lee, formerly of Le Cirque Las Vegas, and recently transitioned to tasting menu only format, Patina remains the Relais & Chateaux crown jewel of Joachim Splichal’s restaurant group and opting for an ‘all-in’ approach for the first visit it was much to the disappointment of the table that we were informed immediately after seating that they were sold-out of duck…a walkout quickly contemplated, but eventually deciding to stay and experience a $150 tasting menu from which nearly every item shined.
Utilizing a style of service that relies heavily on back-servers while captains kowtowed to a table of regulars to our left the meal began awkwardly when sommelier service was refused to my friend – no pairings available and ‘recommendations from the sommelier’ made by way of our waiter – and no sooner did this occur than a trio of canapés arrived without a single word of description, a young man eventually flagged down to tell us exactly what we were eating…a recurring event until complaints were uttered to a man defining himself as the dining room manager.
Continually marred by service gaffs it was shortly after a first round of warm, excellent bread found its way to the table, the meal began with a twirl of pasta and seemingly pulled directly from the menu at Le Cirque the tender noodles were tender and springy while briny bubbles of caviar burst under a bright vinaigrette, a followup course of sous vide egg over potatoes with smoky notes and buttered mushrooms making a quick turn to umami that worked surprisingly well.
Trumpeting the return of foie gras, much like the rest of The Golden State, course three featured a caramelize slice of tender liver perched on a piece of brioche beneath the comforting flavors of raisins and cocoa, and again opting to focus on the intrinsic sweetness of the plate’s central protein a subsequent plate of butter poached lobster proved impeccably textured surrounded by a rich butter reduction grounded in mushrooms and root vegetables.
Generally underwhelmed by John Dory, as many chefs seem to overcook the meaty fish, Chef Lee’s skills were again highlighted in course five as the flesh proved flaky and moist atop a pile of cut cauliflower bathed in brightly flavored broth and with no one friend opting to finish with beef while two of us instead chose the rabbit the kitchen’s skills again shined, the funky lasagna particularly memorable and perhaps the best bite of the night.
Presented next with a proper cheese cart, and for once taking time to truly explain the food being served, it was with a large selection of options spanning Portuguese Sheep’s milk to Epoisses, and an unforgivingly aggressive blue it was surprisingly without palate cleanser that dessert arrived and making a quick taste transition with the assistance of a double espresso over ice it was in something resembling deconstructed sticky toffee pudding that I invested while friends chose the lime posset – something we’d originally been told could not be substituted on the tasting menu due to ‘portion,’ but a pleasant surprise with citrus and spice walking a fine line as ginger perfumed the palate.
Ending in mignardises, our table the last in the room, it was undoubtedly the sesame covered chocolate that stole the show, and presented with the bill at just over $200 per person inclusive of tax and tip it was with mixed emotions that we made our way to the empty streets – the clock now reading “AM” after a meal memorable for the food and friends involved, but far from perfect due to service more befitting a quick-casual chain than a place Relais & Chateaux or Michelin ranked.
http://www.patinagroup.com/patina/
