Rolf and Daughters
Orange Shrub with Lime
Sourdough with Seaweed Butter
Spring Onion Fritto Misto, Lemon, Bottarga
Crostini, Stracciatella, Watercress, Olio Nuovo
Sweet Potato, ‘nduja, Green Onion, Yogurt, Lime
Potato Gnocchi, Morel, Spring Garlic, Piave
Sweet Potato Agnolotti, Mustard Greens, Testa
Squid Ink Campanelle, Florida Squid, Shrimp, ‘nduja, Basil, Breadcrumbs
Stumptown Cold Brew
Meyer Lemon and Whole Grain Tart, Pistachios, Olive Oil
O+S Chocolate Cake, Coffee Panna Cotta, Milk
Strawberries, Rhubarb, Almond, Coconut
Unable to predict an arrival time for Nashville on a Monday during which several of the capitol’s best restaurants are closed, it was with good fortune that walk-in only Rolf and Daughters was found to be only 75% full just after 7:00pm and taking a seat at the far end of the communal dining table with several seats separating us from the next party it was to a meal of almost universal excellence that we were treated, the hippest place in town also serving some of the city’s best food.
Currently helmed by former Gwynnett St. Chef Owen Clark, a man who stunned me with his creative cuisine in Brooklyn during an April 2013 meal that still ranks amongst the most memorable in the borough, the sharable plates at Rolf and Daughters see the young toque revisiting familiar territory with a focus on local produce and bold spice profiles amidst modest amounts of protein and suggested to be enjoyed in a series of three courses by a server extremely well versed in both ingredients and technique one would be hard pressed to name a single savory that could have been improved, even the non-alcoholic orange shrub proving to be the sort of fresh flavor I love as light notes of drinking vinegar lingered beneath a bubbly top note of citrus and soda.
Inquiring on portions and preparations largely to maximize sampling of several plates amongst our party of three it was with house sourdough and seaweed butter that the meal kicked off and with vegetal brine helping to balance out the flavor-forward starter this is one bread most would benefit to pay for, the crisp crostini draped in watercress, stretchy cheese, and fresh olive oil equally simple yet delicious with an almost absolute lack of sweetness allowing pepper and buttery notes to flood the palate in a surprisingly unrestrained way.
Moving on the flavors less subtle, it should seem rather obvious that fried spring onions dressed in citrus and briny shaved roe presented a significant upgrade on standard restaurant rings and, although not exactly large enough to share amongst three as a few bites will only leave the diner wanting more, the tender rounds of sweet potato topped in spicy sausage and those same onions were absolutely brilliant, the heat only arriving on the finish as yogurt tinged in lime presents an up-front bit of tang.
Transitioning next to pastas, all made in house with ingredients that sang of farmer’s markets in the spring, it was in three plates that appetites were invested and although the gnocchi was a bit softer than purists may prefer the addition of nutty cheese, fresh garlic, and earthy morels provided a depth of flavor rarely seen at ‘hip’ restaurants, the sweet potato packed pockets of pasta draped in house-cured testa somewhat resembling the flavor of stewed collards while the al dente Campanelle once again found Calabrian pork working its magic amidst a jumble of sautéed seafood given extra texture by just enough breadcrumbs to make it all work.
More than impressed by savories, and fondly reminiscing about desserts from my Gwynnett St. experience, it was with a ‘one of each’ order from the sweets section that the meal would conclude, and paired to Stumptown’s bold coldbrew the results were nearly on par with the rest, only the slightly over-applied coconut on a chilled plate of strawberries and rhubarb seemingly out of place, while both the subtle citrus tart crowned in nuts and bitter panna cotta topped in crumbles of cookies and sweet milk ‘powder’ were exactly what I’d expected – a study of contrasts without compromise ready to challenge and surprise.
http://www.rolfanddaughters.com/
