Morels French Steakhouse & Bistro
Beignets
Burundi-Nyangwe Coffee
Bloody Mary
MIXED “RED SALAD” & NECTARINES – Assorted Red Baby Lettuces, Nectarines, Radicchio, Red Belgian Endive, Walnut Oil Vinaigrette, Toasted Hazelnuts, Laura Chanel Goat Cheese
BACON & ROASTED TOMATO RISOTTO – Applewood Bacon, Onion, Organic Tomatoes, Fava Beans, Parmesan Cheese
DUNGENESS CRAB OSCAR BENEDICT – Asparagus, Dungeness Crab, Poached Eggs, Citrus Hollandaise
PRIME FLAT IRON STEAK – Roasted Onions, Maître d’ Butter, Handcut French Fries
CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA – Pan Sauteed Chicken Breast, Prosciutto, Comté Cheese, Sauce Mornay
CHEFS CANDIED CALIFORNIA GROWN WALNUTS + CHEESE PLATE – California Coastal Honeycomb, Baguette, Date and Walnut Paste, Henri Hutin Brie Couronne, Saint Andre, Chaumes, Gorgonzola Dolce DOP, Huntsman Gloucester, Old Quebec 7 Year Aged Cheddar, Humboldt Fog, Redwood Cheddar Goat, Mitibleu, Grand Ewe 12 Month Aged
BANANA & MARSCAPONE STUFFED FRENCH TOAST – Saigon Cinnamon, 100% Pure Maple Syrup
ORGANIC BLUEBERRY PANCAKES – Flavored with Lemon & Orange Zest, 4 Cakes, Maple Syrup
HOUSEMADE SEA SALT CARAMEL ICE CREAM – Self Salted
HOUSEMADE LEMON MERINGUE ICE CREAM – Fresh Marshmallow
MINT CHOCOLTE CHIP ICE CREAM
STRAWBERRY CROSTATA – Almond Cream, Sugar & Balsamic Marinated Strawberries, Smoked Ricotta Ice Cream
Located off the lobby of The Palazzo and, as such, easily missed by those visiting the property who are not checking in, Morels could easily be seen as the “third option” steakhouse in a resort complex housing Carnevino as well as Delmonico, but a close look shows several differences, a leisurely breakfast or brunch on the outdoor patio providing a great opportunity to take them all in, particularly the city’s greatest cheese selection.
Part of a small group, another location found at The Grove in Beverly Hills, Morels spins French on the traditional “big meat” concept and going so far as to produce their own wines a glimpse at the interior speaks to the grand brasseries of Central Europe with large nudes hung on walls and an airy, spacious layout while an oyster bar sits up front to tempt those without time or interest for a table within.
Sitting with two friends and a trio of children at a spacious table of three two-tops fit together overlooking the sunny 9:00am Strip below, it was admittedly as guests of the house that a sizable meal was taken, the feast essentially comprised of four courses with children’s orders thankfully taken first as two-hours of restaurant rumors and banter proved a challenge for all but the 2-year old, the staff doing an admirable job of expediting plates…and an even better one of trying to clear space for what was decidedly too much food.
Perhaps not going to the lengths of Batali or Lagasse in terms of meat sourcing or buying produce from the very best purveyors around, suffice it to say that those interested in coffee are well advised to elect service from French Presses featuring roasts from Equator, for although priced at $5-7 per person depending on the bean the quality offered from Thomas Keller’s preferred brand are easily the best in Sheldon Adelson’s complex, particularly with free refills arriving promptly as cup-after-cup was downed.
Offering Mimosas and Bloody Marys mixed tableside it is with pillowy beignets that each brunch at Morels begins, and although granulated sugar would better be replaced with the powdered stuff of New Orleans the oilless donuts proved quite light, as did the leafy greens dressed in fruit and balsamic with a great kick added by Laura Chanel’s ever creamy chevre.
Attempting to sample a good variety of items, rather than just focus on obvious ‘breakfast hits,’ it was with four savories ranging from sandwiches to benedicts that meal marched on and although the picked crab crowned with a perfectly poached egg was unfortunately overwhelmed by a touch too much lemon while a steak requested ‘medium’ was tender and tasty despite being served nearly blue atop a bed of sauteed onions, both the chicken sandwich and risotto were exceedingly well executed – the former particularly intricate with the nuttiness of Comte playing nicely off peppery arugula bathed in buttery Mornay.
Assuredly taking the opportunity to explore a recently updated carte du fromage, something Morels would be well advised to emphasize both at the tableside and in advertisements around the resort, it was with a great deal of effort that selections were limited to a mere ten options and weaving a wide swath of beasts, countries, and textures one would be hard pressed to make a single bad choice – the aged Canadian Cheddar particularly on-point while both the creamy Brie and Stilton-Sandwich Huntsman were equally well selected, palates rejuvenated between bites by candied walnuts and date paste made in house.
Never one to skimp on sweets, though admittedly a bit disappointed that nearly half the desserts are unavailable at brunch (as is the cheese fondue,) it was still in pancakes, French toast, and a lovely rustic tart that the afternoon concluded, the Pacojet crafted quartet of ice creams exceedingly rich and creamy with the marshmallow studded lightness of lemon meringue the best amongst the crowd.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Neither trying nor succeeding in any way to steal the thunder of other Steakhouses within the Venetian/Palazzo complex, Morels is better appraised as an upper/mid-range option to be celebrated for its differences, the early opening hours offering a significant upgrade on Grand Lux in terms of service or setting while the fromage, coffee, and ice cream are Strip-side second to none.
RECOMMENDED: As many cheese selections as one can stomach, Chicken Saltimboca Sandwich, Lemon Meringue Ice Cream, Strawberry Crostada, French Press Coffee.
AVOID: Dungeness Crab Oscar Benedict.
TIP: Open at 7am M-F for breakfast and 8am for weekend brunch, cheese menu and coffee beans vary seasonally.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://morelslv.com/
