Carson Kitchen
Iced Tea
Wok Charred Edmame – Ginger Salt, Togarashi
Ancient Grain Greek – Farro, Quinoa, Lemon Yogurt
Blood Orange & Root – Salsify, Parsnip, Celery Root
Bacon Jam – Baked Brie, Toasted Baguette
Wild Mushroom Flatbread – Butternut Squash, Broccolini, Pickled Radish
Pear & Bleu Flatbread – Negroni’d Cranberries, Charred Brussels
Hawaiian Sliders – Spam, Pineapple, Seasoned Slaw w/ Spicy Tater Tots
Secret Sunday Chicken – Spicy Pickle Aioli w/ Spicy Tater Tots
Spuds & Sprouts – Pancetta, Allspice Cream
Steelhead Trout – Almond Relish, Creamed Kale
Turducken Pot Pie – Buttermilk Crumble
Shepard’s 3.14 – Gnocchi, Lamb, Natural Jus
Banoffee Pie – Bailey’s Whipped Cream, Chocolate Biscotti
The Thomas Collins – Spring 44 Old Tom Gin, Ginger Sage Syrup, Butternut Squash Water, Fresh Lemon
Dancing Nancy – Tito’s Vodka, Orgeat Syrup, Pernod, Crème de Cassis, Fresh Lemon
Sallynoggin – Jameson Irish Whiskey, Luxardo Mrascino, Fernet Vittone,Cinzano Bianco, Peychaud’s Bitters
Tenderoni – Woody Creek Potato Gin, Campari, Sweet Vermouth, Jagermeister Tincture
Not particularly ‘sold’ on Carson Kitchen at first, but converted over time and repeat visits to appreciate Cory Harwell’s cuisine as not only innovative but a heckuva lot of fun, it was with the winter 2015 menu recently launched that a party of four sat down to lunch amidst whimsical holiday décor, and with a soundtrack ranging from Stones to Killers playing overhead the two-hour tasting of nine new plates plus a handful of classics showed plenty of creativity, though the results were not quite on par with the exquisite offerings of late-summer and early autumn.
Bringing in the talents of John Courtney since our last visit, the familiar Vegas face now assisting Cory in menu development as the restaurant group eyes local expansion with the upcoming “Standard & Pour,” it was entirely at the culinary team’s discretion that courses were rolled out from the cozy hard-working kitchen and beginning with a tribute to Kerry Simon the charred edamame may not seem quite as novel as they once were, but nonetheless signify an important moment in the restaurant’s history, a reminiscent piece that would be even more interesting should they continue to flash back with additional classics of the “Rock n’ Roll” Chef as the years march forth.
Onward next to two new salads, Carson Kitchen’s rich Bacon Jam with Brie making an appearance just in case we thought the course too light, Harwell again looks to introduce novel ingredients in interesting ways with a Greek Salad anchored by toothsome farro and quinoa, the yogurt not quite tangy enough to balance the plate’s substantial nuttiness, a far more elegant flavor profile spanning the “Blood Orange & Root” that saw bright acid alongside hearty salsify, parsnip, and celery root with a slight sweetness lingering at the end.
Next presenting two new flatbreads it was much like the past that results were a bit hit and miss, for as good as the Wild Mushroom version was at bringing mustiness in check with creamy squash and pickled radish the Pear & Bleu was really only interesting for the craisins plumped by flavors of a negroni, the charred sprouts suffocating any sweetness from thinly sliced pears and almost so bitter as to overwhelm the punchy cheese as well.
Acknowledging my personal bias against Spam, the salty processed meat holding neither nostalgic nor hipster value when a world of charcuterie is available to be explored, I’ll simply say that Carson Kitchen’s current sliders are better than most presentations, though money is still better invested in any of the restaurant’s other sandwiches, the “Sunday Chicken” somehow a glaring omission in items tasted on past visits but an upgrade in all ways over the Chick-fil-a version on which it is based.
Still smiling about the pickle relish it was again Brussel Sprouts that were brought to our table and although put to far better use in whole form alongside tender wrinkly potatoes and the flavors of allspice only a small sample was necessary from a dish intended for sharing, particularly as the crispy skinned trout over creamed kale is the sort of plate one is likely to covet for themselves.
No doubt trending heavier than last menu, the winter theme evident even in a city where snow is less common than an honest Hotel Public Relations Department, concluding savories consisted of Cory’s hefty pot pie placing chicken, turkey, and intentionally prominent duck in a rich gravy beneath crumbled buttermilk biscuits, the “Shepard’s 3.14” a collaborative effort between he and Courtney that lightens up the British meat and potatoes staple with tender dumplings and plenty of vegetables alongside supple lamb in natural jus.
Ending the meal with two orders of Banoffee Pie, the dish *supposedly* brought back “just for me,” fans of the traditional version will be happy to know that the flavors of Banana and Toffee are equally present and poignant beneath a cloud of Bailey’s whipped cream in a full-size mason jar and although a retread from the past still a truly delicious treat that, if rumors are true, should see Las Vegans offering me their thanks.
FOUR STARS: Still an extremely relevant restaurant in Las Vegas with a menu from which a great meal can easily be had, it is perhaps a difference in tastes that saw this visit a bit less enjoyable than those preceding it, but with places like Glutton and others now offering far more dynamic menus including daily specials one also must consider just how much the competition has grown…and how long spicy tots plus a dozen plates present since day one can continue to draw the same diners back.
RECOMMENDED: Banoffee Pie, Turducken Pot Pie, Secret Sunday Chicken, Blood Orange and Root
AVOID: Ancient Grain Greek, Pear & Bleu Flatbread
TIP: Admittedly a lightweight in the realm of cocktails, a fan of the Manhattan and Negroni I certainly am not, those who value such things will be happy to hear that a knowledgeable friend praised both The Thomas Collins and the Tenderoni while my fondness for the Dancing Nancy probably qualifies me for some sort of label, the fruit-forward flavor quite pleasant with the vodka flavor dialed way back by anise.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://carsonkitchen.com
