Restaurante Akelaŕe
Bloody Mary
Mussel Croquetta, Anchovy Stuffed Olives, Umami Wafer
White, Wheat, Spelt, Rustic Baton with local cow’s butter
Prawns and Green Beans cooked in Orujo Flame
Sauteed Kokotxa, White Garlic Pil Pil
Sauteed Fresh Foie Gras with “Salt Flakes and Grain Pepper”
Hake in Seaweed Steam, Plankton, Oyster Leaf
Squid as a Risotto, Butter Flower
Grilled Iberico Pressa with Pepper Seeds and Garlic in Three Versions
Mojito
Melting Cupcake
Orange “Tocino de Cielo” Sheet with Fruit Leaves
The Different Apple Tart
Nougat, Caramel, Crispy, Macaron
Originally pursuing a career in medicine before circumstances saw an interest in hospitality develop late in school. Pedro Subijana’s resume bears little resemblance to those of contemporaries who honed their skills in the best kitchens of France, but continuing to develop a distinctive style since taking over Akelarre in 1975 there is little doubt forty years later that some things are written in the stars, the Chef and his seaside restaurant continuously holding Three from Michelin since the 2006 guide.
Writing its own story in a land where Basque traditions often mingle with modernist flare, arrival at Akelarre is not dissimilar to that of other fine dining destinations but with the two-tiered room placing some along the windows while other are elevated at its center the choice is really a matter of preference, an afternoon overlooking the ocean probably the ideal though those who prefer to witness the service spectacle may wish to peer down from above.
Divided into three eight-course tastings, a classics menu suggested as the best way to witness Subijana’s evolution throughout the years, large parties are encouraged to choose differently with a focus on sharring, the Berkarki menu plus one classic addition proving the most compelling option for myself.
Opening at 20h30 with a total of eighteen items offered along with four housemade breads when accounting for canape, mignardises, and palate cleansing sorbet suffice it to say that two hours at Akelarre features no lack of action, the opening quartet offering but a glimpse of the Chef’s willingness to elaborate on familiar flavors with discrepant ingredients and textures as the mussel croquette featured a surprising sweetness amidst brine and butter, the “Bloody Mary” an airy meringue that quickly flooded the palate and just as soon dissipated.
Impressed by the sort of bread that will challenge diners not to overindulge, both the spelt and hearty baton particularly great with curls of butter, course one of the tasting featured jumbo prawns cooked tableside over flames of Brandy, and coming out perfectly tender despite the directed heat all three were picked and sucked clean of their carapace with curls of green beans cleanring the palate between bites.
Again embracing the region in course two, fleshy hake throat delicately fried with a bit of spice and garlic adding nuance without overwhelming the gelatinous core, its follow-up showed signs of whimsy amidst textbook execution of duck liver, the “salt and pepper” haphazardly tossed over top by my server actually flavored like cocoa and vanilla as the bittersweet juxtaposition enhanced a silky center beneath the caramelized sear.
Returning to the fish from prior with a meaty fillet dusted in dried plankton that was as flaky as it was moist it was with suggestions to prepare the palate with a single Oyster Leaf that the evening marched on, the jet-black dish served next not containing a single grain of rice but virtually indistinguishable from the most delicate traditional versions given the finely chopped cephalopod and creamy stock further bolstered by butter.
Rounding out the savories with a very special presentation of acorn-only fed Iberico Pig lightly grilled and as intense as any charcuterie seen to date, it was again riffing on a classic American Cocktail that the mouth was transitioned to sweetness, the airy notes of lime and mint far more appealing to me than the actual drink.
No doubt a worldly man, hints at Americana not subtle in a “Melting” cupcake that tasted as though buttercream frosting was whipped via ISI-Container with fruit and then chilled, the Orange “Tocino de Cielo” was a return to Spanish flavors with a thin custard that tasted similar to a Carballon tinged in walnuts with light floral notes.
Intrigued by the “broken jar of Yoghurt” but told that “The Different Apple Tart” was a dish that should not be missed it was in the later that the meal reached its ending, the mignardises probably good though I really don’t remember as the caramelized tart tatin on an all-butter shortbread was as intricate in flavor as it was in its look.