Elkano
Txomin Etxaniz 2014
House Bread and Oil
Poached Octopus, Grapefruit
Barnacles Steamed
Barnacles Grilled
Kokotxas – tongue and pendulum of Hake, grilled
Grandma’s Fish Soup – 100 year recipe
Grilled Turbot – 1kg
Rice Pudding
Torrijas with Milk Foam, yolk, vanilla bourbon ice cream
Honey Cake, Chocolate Cereal and Nuts
Located in the small seaside town of Getaria, just under a half-hour from San Sebastian by car, Michelin Starred Elkano looks not unlike many other restaurants throughout the Basque region but gaining substantial acclaim thanks to Grilled fish including the world renowned Turbot there is little doubt that there is something special setting this place apart.
Owned and operated by the same family for generations, the Maitre D’ citing a 100+ year old recipe as the source of a fish soup that tastes of brine and roasted bones with a richness rarely seen in a broth lacking cream, those fortunate enough to secure a seat are treated to a menu of classics based only on the quality of source and the lightest of seasoning and manipulation, most of the fish and meats only offered steamed or roasted over hot outdoor coals.
Sourcing everything as locally as possible, the olive oil pressed specifically for the restaurant while bread is brought in from a bakery just down the street it was at my hosts recommendation that wine from a 35 hectare local vineyard was selected, its dryness surprisingly fruit forward and a beautiful pairing to almost any form of seafood.
Old fashioned in décor, the stone floors and netted drapes adding age to a room where lighting at night is romantic bordering on dim, it was only after discussing portion sizes at length that a makeshift ‘tasting’ was created by the kitchen, an opening volley of octopus muscular yet tender alongside bitter citrus while barnacles in two preparations were offered in followup, the steamed versions plump and juicy while larger mussels were grilled with a rich smokiness amidst textures that trended more meaty, though not at all ‘tough.’
Insisting that no meal at Elkano would be complete without at least tasting the Kokotxas it was to a single grilled gullet that I was next treated and although more elaborately prepared versions had already been tasted at Michelin 3* establishments it would be hard to say any were more flavorful than this ‘simple’ version, the followup fish soup every bit as good as previously stated.
Offering a brief tour of the kitchen, holding tanks of live fish, and spacious cellar as the 1.04kg Turbot was finished on the grill it was with an elaborate tableside presentation that the faintly charred fish was deboned ad plated, “light” separated from “dark” with encouragement to dissect the head and suck the bones clean, the flavors and textures truly dynamic with some tastes gelatinous and fishy while others arrived smoky, moist, and lean.
No doubt a bit full as the clock ticked past 21h30 and still over an hour from the hotel there was admittedly brief contemplation of forgoing dessert before the options were presented, one glance casting aside such nonsense and instead seeing an order of not just warm rice pudding, but toasted brioche rich with egg yolk beneath elegant milk foam and boozy housemade ice cream as well.
