Lukshon
What the pho? – brisket dumpling, pho consommé, traditional garnishes, smoked sriracha
Kurobuta pork ribs – spicy chicory coffee bbq sauce
Steak bao – chinese black beans, asian pear, kohlrabi, kimchi vinaigrette
Larb sliders – peanut bun, larb seasoning, green cabbage slaw, green fire aioli, taro chips, tamarind pickled carrots
Sichuan dumplings – kurobuta pork, spicy ma-la vinaigrette, sesame, peanuts
Lobster roll “banh mi” – pig ear terrine, spicy green papaya slaw
Chicken rending – malay spices, red chile lemongrass rempah, coconut cream, sticky rice cakes
Crispy rice cakes – shiitake mushrooms, yu choy, chinese black vinegar, sweet soy
Chinese eggplant – fennel raita, tomato sambal, eggplant “fries”
Crab fried rice – blue crab, jasmine rice, egg, pea tendrils, serrano chile
it’s like apples and oranges – orange financier, green apple jam, tamarind cider, blood orange sherbet, sichuan peppercorn
Warm banana toffee cake – banana custard, spice toffee sauce, chocolate graham cracker soil, black tea ice cream
Masala chai donuts – dark chocolate green cardamom sauce
Chocolate biscotti – cranberry, walnut
Opened by Sang Yoon in early 2011 and celebrated as the Chef’s return to a more refined form of dining than his famed burger at Father’s Office, Lukshon has been subject to mixed emotions from diners ever since opening largely as a result of prices some seem to feel outstrip portions and quality – those issues not without warrant, all things considered.
Presented as “Asian Fusion,” the overused descriptor perhaps more appropriate here than anywhere else in the United States as the menu weaves a wide path ranging Vietnamese, Chinese, Korean and even Indian, lunch at Lukshon sees many options also offered at dinner and with clean lines plus high ceilings paired to comfortable booths in the dining room in addition to a patio and communal high tops there is no lack of intrigue to be found regardless of one’s predilections, though alterations are frowned upon, as are most substitutions.
Dining with one omnivore and one selective pescetarian, though the latter is far from picky and happy to pay her share, it was just past the restaurant’s 11am opening that indoor seating was selected and ordering in rounds with an eye towards diversity a baker’s dozen plates eventually crossed our paths, the first a succulent brisket dumpling in pho consommé poured tableside with “heat” from smoked sriracha, though the broth was tepid at best.
Admittedly thinking “What the eff?” in regard to the temperature of our first plate, dishes two and three quickly corrected the course as spicy pork slipped from bones while tender steak graced bao with Asian Pear providing a deft foil to fermented cabbage vinaigrette, larb sliders avoiding the trap of being too spicy for enjoyment through the clever pairing of peanut buns plus coleslaw, and all the better for it.
With my friend surprisingly taken aback by the spice level of the ribs, my mild Midwestern palate actually not the meekest for once, Sichuan dumplings were thankfully more mild than the condiments would lead one to believe and although the $17 lobster roll was indeed steep considering the 3-bite portion one would be hard to fault any other aspect of it, the melted smear of pork adding an incredible amount of sapor to the butter poached crustacean’s mayo-soaked meat.
Not skimping when it comes to rice or vegetables, the sticky cakes with smoky chicken “rendig” more than necessary for soaking up all the sauce, “Crispy rice cakes” were a polarizing dish thanks a gummy interior that I found more intriguing than my did my tablemates, no such issues noted in the complex eggplant cubes mixed with crispy straws, nor the chock-full-of-crab fried rice.
At this point already $200-in, $10 desserts a bargain compared to savory plates, it was with passion fruit passed-up that 3/4 of the menu was selected and although Masala Chai donuts were an interesting idea with cardamom infused chocolate sauce they were nonetheless far less memorable than moist Banana Bread with a curd that tasted identical to Runts candy, let alone the slightly more expensive “it’s like apples and oranges” that looked like something out of Red Medicine or Alinea with multiple variations on both fruits well executed and highlighted by sour apple jam plus peppercorns and tamarind.
