The Gist: http://ardeobardeo.com/
The Why: Another Knightsbridge property, but this one conveniently located near the National Zoo where I’d be spending the bulk of my morning, I was a bit hesitant to visit Ardeo based on my experience at Bibiana but with a boozy brunch drawing raves from a few friends in-the-know I figured I would give it a chance – the promise of free parking behind the building was another draw. So was Foie Gras and French Toast.
The Reservation: Opentable. Arriving at 11:00am I was fine, but there was quite the crowd when I left at 12:45 so perhaps making one is a good idea.
The Service and Setting: Open and airy with “Ardeo” at the right and “Bardeo” at the left there were only 2 seated tables when I arrived and opting for one near the window I had a full view of the room; mostly nondescript with a well-stocked bar at center and comfortable wood tables surrounding. Greeted by my server, a friendly young man named Chris whose only ‘flaw’ was pushing the bottomless mimosas with a bit too much zeal, and perusing the menu despite knowing exactly what I was going to order service was efficient and friendly – water refilled consistently and fresh French Presses brought to the table thrice at no extra charge. While I can’t speak too much to the atmosphere aside from what I witnessed I’ll just say that based on the two tables seated next to me that Ardeo may not be the best place for a leisurely family brunch; particularly when the drinks start flowing it can become very loud.
The food: Coffee (freely refilled,) complimentary bread basket, one appetizer, one main, one dessert.
French Press Coffee: Roasted by Illy and delivered by French Press for $4 with infinite refills and sweetener of choice; A+ in my book.
Chocolate Chip Scones and Cherry Walnut Bread: A bread basket for breakfast/brunch is one way to win my affection and with miniature chocolate chip scones with big chunks of sugar and chocolate juxtaposing pockets of butter plus rich fruit and nut bread still warm from the oven the version at Ardeo was impressive at baseline and even better with a touch of butter and raspberry preserves (available on request.)
Salt Cured Foie Gras with Fig Mustard and Brioche: $14 from the charcuterie section – the most expensive item on that day’s brunch menu – this plate still proved a tremendous deal in featuring approximately three ounces of creamy foie terrine tinged with salt and pepper alongside a sizeable quenelle of macerated reduced fig plus warm brioche. Spreadable and unctuous, brioche replenished with a simple request, and nicely complimented by the fig spread there was nothing fancy about this dish, just top quality ingredients prepared and presented at a great price.
Banana-Walnut French Toast with Whipped Cream and Pure Maple Syrup: Certainly not the same bargain as the foie gras but still a nice preparation this was another case of quality ingredients prepared with a skilled hand as the dense banana walnut bread was crunchy and caramelized on the exterior, custard soft within, and when paired with caramelized bananas and whipped cream plus pure maple syrup from Michigan quite delicious even when taking into account the steep $10 price tag.
Pecan pie with bourbon ice cream and crème Fraiche: The only service misstep of the morning occurred when Christ brought me the check without offering me dessert – a mistake quickly corrected when I joked with him that French Toast is an entrée, not a dessert…and a mistake remedied by a warm pie with crunchy pecan praline topping over a gooey base and served up alongside rich ice cream, tangy crème fraiche, and bourbon barrel caramel. Offered at a mere $8 and one of many excellent dessert options this is a must order and if I hadn’t had two more substantial meals on my day’s agenda I’d have probably ordered the carrot cake as well.
The Verdict: Far better than it needs to be given the scope of the restaurant – particularly at brunch – Ardeo/Bardeo proved a very redeeming experience after a subpar meal at Bibiana and although obviously a different experience returned Knightsbridge Restaurant Group to the high standard I’d expected based on my meal at Rasika a few years prior. A nice setting in an area otherwise lacking substantial options on a Saturday afternoon featuring good service and even better food I’d definitely come back, especially if spending a day at The Zoo, even if just for drinks and appetizers or dessert and coffee.