Sarma
Warm Sesame Seed Pita and Olive Oil
Beet gnocchi – yogurt soup, swiss chard, pistachio, mint butter
Bluefish falafel – tahini, pickled peaches, basil
Biscuits –jalapeño-whipped feta, smoked ham, honey
Harissa bbq duck – carrot, orange blossom, almonds, date
Sundried tomato borek – walnut tapenade, local mozzarella, basil
Frozen yogurt – greek-style, cow’s milk / Loukamades – ricotta doughnuts / Black lime pavlova – meringue, blackberry, pistachio / Fig bisteeya – saffron, honey, almonds
Best described as a Turkish cousin to Oleana, the collaborative effort from Chef Ana Sortun and Cassie Piuma essentially reinventing Somerville dining overnight when it opened its doors in late 2013, it was as a 9:15pm walk-in that seats were found at a communal high-top overlooking the exhibition style kitchen where a team of Chefs work to fashion some truly inventive small-plates.
Apparently slammed on almost every night of the week, later hours than most combined with a unique menu that is mostly wallet friendly when eating as a group likely part of the draw, dining at Sarma is largely presented as a “choose-your-own-adventure” sort of experience and with the menu divided into several sections that are at once clever yet familiar the recommendation is made for “two-or-three” plates per person, though it is likely most will want to try more.
Made to order, seasonal and frequently local sourced, the plates rolling out from the kitchen as readied while Chefs occasionally stop by with trays of ‘nightly specials’ not found on the menu at varying cost, it was with the first of two seeded Pitas that the dining night got rolling and trying hard to not fill up and thus resisting further temptation the decision proved fortuitous, opening plates of tender Dumplings made of Beets brilliant in tangy Yogurt with hints of Mint while the Falafel of Bluefish tasted much like Brandade Croqettes with a smooth, herbal finish.
Having already enjoyed a memorable dinner at Birch in Providence, thus limiting the order more than it should have been, a trio of biscuits with smoked Ham were perhaps not as appropriate to the venue as they were delicious, the Harissa Duck a bit overpriced considering the portion while Borek took a unique approach in soaking the pastry with sundried tomatoes before topping it with tapenade, Mozzarella and Basil in a makeshift Caprese move.
Full, but never foolish enough to forgo dessert, Sarma takes a unique approach to softserve by offering just one style with a bevy of mix-ins, the Meringue topped Pavlova both textural and refreshing while the sticky Pudding of Figs, Saffron and Honey went well with both the Frozen Yogurt and tender Ricotta Donuts.
www.sarmarestaurant.com/

