Pizzeria Grigoris
Grissini, Crostini, Bread Sticks
20 Month Monte Feltro Raw Ham
Squizzato’s Farm Smoked Pork Cheek
Warm Melitzanosalata with Sourdough Focaccia
Bucatini with Sardines, Sundried Tomatoes
Pumpkin Gnocchi with Zibello Bacon and Smoked Ricotta Cheese
Margherita Extra DOP – Peeled San Marzano Tomatoes from Agro-Samese-Nocerino PDO, Handcrafted Mozzarella di Bufala Campnan PDO, Basil, Wild Oregano, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Carbonara – Agerola’s Fior Di Latte, Iberian Acorn Fed Pork Cheek Joselito, Egg, Black Pepper
Baccala’ – Agerola’s Fior Di Latte, Baccala’ au Naturel, Semi-dried Tomatoes, Toasted Noto Almonds, Caiatine Hills Olives
‘Nduja/Papaccella – Peeled San Marzano Tomatoes from Agro-Samese-Nocerino PDO, Agerola’s Fior Di Latte, ‘Nduja “Nero di Calabria,” Neapolitan Papaccellas
Panettone estivo con Gelato alla Vaniglia
Gelato Bianco alla Vaniglia con Panna Montata e Frutti di Bosco
Pan Brioche con il Nostro Gelato alla Cassata
Established in the town of Mestre in 2008 as a look at the past, present and future of Neapolitan Pizza by taking a seasonal Slow-Food approach but not adhering to antiquated rules of “authenticity,” Pizzeria Grigoris represents one of the new breed of Italian Pizza Makers and judging from a packed house of nearly 150 for two consecutive turns on Saturday night it seems locals have embraced the idea quite readily.
Located just a few miles from the train-stop to Venice, where the residential landscape is only occasionally punctuated by a business and far from the tourist scene, Pizzeria Grigoris stands out immediately on approach by way of the well-lit patio and a small gathering of patrons in the doorway, though none of it compares to the first glance of activity on the inside with pizzas being fired every 90 seconds from a wood burning oven manned by two-pizzaiolos plus two men continuously hand forming dough from aging boxes in tight quarters while waiters and waitresses dodge to-and-fro with hot plates.
Arriving at 20h08 for a reservation window that theoretically extends from 19h30 opening until 21h30 for turn two, it was only after creative parking in a small lot that entry was made into the surprisingly ample building, the hand-written registry sending us immediately to a small table at the corner of the patio where we were literally brought face to face with shrubbery, the smell of burning incense notable from nearby but doing a limited amount to keep several small gnats at bay.
In all ways the definition of lively, both the colors and the atmosphere vibrant as several large parties celebrated with wine and local beers, service was not only English-fluent but decidedly affable in an quasi-“Hipster” manner, the basket of dried breads proving a tempting place to start munching as the menus were perused, everything either made in-house or from the very best local ingredients including an ancient Sourdough starter and 100% Wheat Stone Milled Flour.
Tucked away to the side, but generally looked after quite well despite the bustle of the room, it was perhaps twenty minutes after seating that a round of antipasti was presented and with encouragement from the waiter that we would not be rushed through our meal it was with great glee that four hands reached for Ham, Bread and hot Eggplant spread, the 20 Month Monte Feltro a particularly refined taste shaved so thin that it was translucent while the Melitzanosalata may indeed have leaned a bit Greek in such a setting, though at the same time delivering smoky sweetness that was no worse for it.
Undoubtedly a place where one could go all-in without even ordering a Pizza, the soft Breads all delivered hot from the oven and seducing even with just a splash of oil, two Pastas were eventually selected from a list of five options, the handmade Bucatin left wth just the right amount of chew beneath sliced Sardines and Sundried Tomatoes slicked in Olive Oil while the plump Pumpkin Dumplings immediately set a high standard by being at the same time awash with flavor and almost as light as air.
Onward to the raison d’etre, four pies arriving true-to-word ten-minutes after the order was placed, it almost seems unfair to “rank” what Pizzeria Grigoris is doing in the context of only having eaten Pizza in North America to this moment, each pie a virtuoso performance in terms of composition as the spicy Calabrian Peppers found balance in Organic Papaccellas much as the brine of Salt Cod was offset by Sundried Tomatoes and Slivered Almonds.
Holding true that a Pizza is only as good as it’s crust, each base crackling to the teeth with fermentation and flame yielding a good stretch imbued with smoke and slight sours, it was with only a cooled slice of Carbonara left that was returned to the kitchen when the table was all quite sated, a trio of Gelato-based desserts forgivingly light and all quite delicious, the Brioche Sandwich most impressive featuring a smooth center made that day from locally grown Pistachios.
http://www.grigoris.it/