Osteria Francescana
Fresh Lemon Juice, Soda Water, Herb Infusion
Multigrain Sourdough and Olive Oil from Tuscany
Baccala, Tomato and Capers / Rabbit Liver Macaron / Parmigiano and the flavors of Pesto / Fried Fish from the Po River with Black Truffle Ice Cream
Focaccia and Olive Oil Grissini
Tribute to Normandy – Oyster and Lamb Tartare, Mint Jam, Green Apple Granita
Lentils are better than Caviar – Egg Yolk, Bunkwheat, Crème Fraiche
Riso Levante – Untoasted Rice, Perch, Citrus
Mediterranean Sole – Tomato, Anchovy, the Idea of Papillote
Autumn in New York – Fruits and Vegetables of the Season, broth of Prosciutto, Raisin and Tomato
Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano in different textures and temperatures
The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna
An Eel Swimming up the Po River
Traditional Modenese Miniature Tortellini in Capon Broth
At the dinner of Trimalchione: Fowl in the Ancient Roman Style, Russet Potatoes, Endive
Croccatino of Foie Gras – Noto Almonds and Piedmont Hazelnuts, Balsamic Vinegar from Modena
Caesar Salad in Bloom – Buffalo Milk Yogurt, Dehydrated Strawberries
Camouflage of Vignola
Oops! I dropped the Lemon Tart
Hazelnut, Black Truffle and Foie Gras Macaron / Camouflage – A Hare in the Woods / Liquid Center “Cherry”
Taking over a title of “The World’s Best Restaurant” on the 2016 San Pellegrino List it was with good fortune that a two-top had already been secured for lunch on September 6th before the announcement was made, this trip to Italy partially prompted by an interest in the marriage of modernity and tradition crafted by Massimo Bottura at his tiny restaurant in Modena, the 53-year-old Chef unfortunately out of country on the date of this meal, though it seems unlikely that this fact saw the experience offered any different than it may have been otherwise.
Named Osteria Francescana and undoubtedly having gained mainstream popularity by way of the Bottura’s inspired appearance on Season One of Netflix’s Chef’s Table, it was just as the clock approached 11h45 that a small queue began to form for the 28 diners fortunate enough to secure a seat for the noontime meal, an approximately three-hour event offered a la carte or by way of one of two tasting menus, the whole table unfortunately required to participate in the same choice unless dietary exclusions preclude something.
Featuring the familiar sort of personable yet professional service offered at similar restaurants, light music of various styles lofty amidst the high ceiling, it was in the second of two rooms that our duo was placed at a table large enough to seat a foursome, the €250 Degustazione offering eleven courses plus Breads, Canapes and Mignardises further enhanced by two a la carte additions plus a new Dessert that was offered to some tables, but not others, for unknown reasons.
Minimalist in its decoration, black and white photographs of birds joining brown curtains and grey walls, it was mere moments after placing the order that the afternoon launched into action, a kitchen of twenty-five or more sending plates out at a well-paced yet leisurely interval, a loaf of Ancient Grain Sourdough arriving hot with a robust crust and fluffy center quickly followed by a quartet of nibbles from which the Rabbit-Mousse Macaron and fried Fishcake with Black Truffle Ice Cream were both imaginative and compelling.
Sipping a refreshing €15 Mock-tail that seemed a bit ‘Nickel & Diming,’ as did a €10 Espresso to finish the meal, it was with Focaccia and weightless Grissini in hand that the menu officially got underway, “Tribute to Normandy” the first of many plates where looks would prove deceiving as a smooth Tartare of hand-chopped Lamb was served on the half-shell with Oyster Cream, Mint Jam, and ice-cold Apple Granita.
Seeing several Bottura classics joined by plates in-tune with the season, “Lentils are better than Caviar” turned tradition on its head with tender Legumes served atop Egg Yolk, Buckwheat Croutons and Beets while the “Riso Levante” unfortunately fell-short in terms of flavor, though the untoasted Rice offered an intriguing balance of creaminess and starch atop Perch Ceviche and a twist of Citrus.
Noticing a theme of plated colors just as subtle as the room in which it was served, Mediterranean Sole with Tomatoes, Anchovies and ”the Idea of Papillote” was amongst the most memorable dishes of the meal as a result of modernist ‘paper’ imparting a smoky finish and crunch to perfectly poached flesh, the more vibrant “Autumn in New York” a whimsical look at seasonal Produce bathed in clear broth of Prosciutto, Raisins and Tomatoes, though in reality the dish did not really offer much intrigue beyond its plating.
Progressing to two Osteria Francescana classics, the Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano truly a defining dish with a quintet of temperatures, textures and ages ranging from crisp to ethereal and frozen to warm, “The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna” was actually not entirely dissimilar in terms of the plate’s construction, a rich Bolognese at the base topped with a lightly charred curl of noodle that, although beautiful to look at, was not any more tasty than a wedge of the corner-piece from a pan that it looks to recreate.
Taking two a la carte items next, the €60 Tortellini bathed in a rich, oil-slicked both made from the carcass of Capon as delicate and delicious as the substantial portion is sharable, “An Eel Swimming up the Po River” was the third stunning dish following the Sole and “Five Ages,” each filet picked completely free of bones with a duo of sauces telling a story of Italy’s history, flavors of Saba and Amarone glazing the fish joining Green Apple and Polenta on one side with old local Balsamic on the other.
Continuing the dialogue on Italian History with a traditional Roman dish of several game birds deboned, stuffed inside one another and roasted tender, the richness continued with what can best be called an unfrozen popsicle of Duck Liver, the creamy torchon rolled in Almonds and Hazelnuts with a reduced glaze of Balsamic Vinegar from Modena.
Refreshing the palate with leaves of lettuce lightly topped in Yogurt and Berries before proceeding to proper desserts, “Oops! I dropped the Lemon Tart” was everything the Lasagna was in terms of eye-catching by way of its deconstruction without upgrading the concept from its traditional version, the Camouflage of Vignola a far more interesting dish that took Chocolate and Cherries as its inspiration and offered each as in a variety of forms spread thinly across the plate with everything from pudding-soft textures to Pop Rocks incorporated.
Using the mignardises to complete the experience Osteria Francescan offers three contrasting bites instructed to be eaten in order at the end of the meal, both the Macaron and traditional “Camouflage” outperforming other plates offered earlier in the experience, though perhaps with less significance to the story Bottura is trying to tell in 2016, one that is certainly worth paying attention to, but at times a little less eloquent than others and thus not the best one ever told.
http://www.osteriafrancescana.it/index.php