Jean Georges Steakhouse
Lavash, Pretzel, Baguette, Walnut Cherry Bread, European Butter
Osetra Caviar – Lemon Vodka Crème Fraiche Beignet, Dill, Mint, Chives, Maldon Salt
Bacon Wrapped Shrimp – Persimmon, Horseradish, Star Anise, Coriander, Lime, Maple Syrup, Asian Pears
Dungeness Crab Dumplings – Mustard Aioli, Celeriac-Meyer Lemon Tea, Lemon Zest, Ginger
Seared Foie Gras – Chanterelles, Figs, Port, Toasted Brioche
Baby Beets & Pear – Gorgonzola Dolce, Walnuts, Herbs, Chili Powder, Lime Gel
Crunchy Organic Chicken – Spinach and Butter Hot Sauce
JG Cheeseburger – Truffle Mayonnaise, Brie Cheese, Yuzu Pickles, Truffle Fries
Bone Marrow – Toasted Bread, Lemon Gremolata
Ora King Salmon – Buttery Lemon Crumble, Parsnips, Celeriac, Carrots, Beet Greens, House Sriracha
Wagyu Tenderloin – Truffle Potato Crisp, Parmesan Cheese, Onion-Garlic Miso, Black Truffles
Brussel Sprouts – Bacon, Pecans, Quince Mustard, Sage
Crunchy Potatoes – Chili Yogurt, Jalapenos, Herbs
Double Espresso on Ice
Market Apple Pie – Maple Pecan Ice Cream
Salted Caramel Sundae – Fudge, Candied Peanuts, Caramel Popcorn
Cranberry Pavlova – Cranberry Compote, Cranberry Sorbet, Candied Lime Zest, Shaved White Chocolate
Honey Panna Cotta – Fig Jam, Macerated Figs, Petit Buerre, Lemon Gelee, Rosemary Sorbet
One of the rare Las Vegas Steakhouses worthy of repeat visits by season, Autumn at Jean Georges Steakhouse sees Chef Sean Griffin and Pastry Chef Darcee Lynn once again raising the bar by way of technique and sourcing quality, a recent visit from Chef Vongerichten and Sean’s travels to Singapore further infusing the broad-ranging menu with subtle Asian inspiration.
At this point the only remaining restaurant from Aria’s original second floor, The Buffet not included, this third visit to Jean Georges Steakhouse was accompanied by a friend returning from summer in upstate New York and although the restaurant seemed a bit lean at the time of an early reservation the space was energetic by 7:00p and nearly packed by 8:30.
Seated at restaurant center this time, a large party occupying the entire upper level near the Wine wall, it was with greetings from management as well as Chef Griffin that the Carte Blanche tasting got started, a few personal suggestions incorporated into the middle courses but beginning with a warm Beignet crowned with Osetra Caviar and filled with intense Lemon Vodka Crème Fraiche.
Wary of the Bread Basket, though two were mostly finished over the subsequent three hours, course two saw Sean present one classic reinvented alongside one completely new dish, the Bacon Wrapped Shrimp resting in pureed Persimmons infused with Star Anise and Coriander via pressure cooker while fresh-picked Dungeness Crab was offered by way of delicate wonton wrappers in a crystal clear broth of Celery Root and Meyer Lemon lightly accented with Ginger and Lemon Zest.
Finding the music down a notch from prior, the space given a pulse but not so loud that one needs to shout in order to be heard, plates four and five featured a seasonal salad comprised of ingredients from the Intuitive Forager’s Market served adjacent Seared Foie Gras with Chanterelles, Figs and Port Wine reduction, the former featuring a hint of Mexico by way of Chili and Citrus while the later proved a truly unique way of accentuating the meatier flavors of Duck Liver while still managing to mitigate its intrinsic richness.
Going “American” by way of Jean George for course four, the city’s boldest Bone Marrow served with tender bits of meat still clinging on at the ends, suffice it to say that no discussion of the Las Vegas’ best Fried Chicken is complete without taking the Tempura-battered cutlet served over soft Spinach and Buttered Hot Sauce into consideration, the Initialed Cheeseburger no less a competitor in its respective genre as ground Wagyu Chuck sees a whole lot of flavor added by Trim from other cuts, the combination of Brie and Yuzu working far better than one might guess while small chunks of Black Truffle dotted the Mayonnaise and crispy Fries served as a side dish.
Continuing a campaign to prove Salmon can be great, the meaty filet served with a crust of Citrusy Breadcrumbs atop Root Vegetables with a smear of housemade Sriracha, sides included tender Brussel Sprouts served with a dollop of Quince Mustard, Nuts and Bacon Strips, the Crunchy Potatoes a bit spicy for more mild palates while the tasting menu’s Wagyu Tenderloin was an beautifully prepared piece of Steer even before the Garlic Miso and Black Truffle upgrade.
Turning to Chef Lynn for desserts, two new seasonal compositions joining an already strong lineup, both the Cranberry Pavlova and Honey Panna Cotta met mixed reviews from my dining partner who professes to “not be a sweets person,” the Cranberry Compote admittedly a bit harsh for those who do not prefer the ingredient whole the Panna Cotta was smooth as silk alongside Butter Cookies and Figs in two textures, the “safer” choice being Darcee’s Salted Caramel Sundae or the cast-iron skillet Market Apple Pie that remains the best in Las Vegas.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Taking more chances than most Steakhouses in town, and operating without a safety net by focusing on purity of flavors without overcrowding each plate, Jean Georges Steakhouse remains one of the few restaurants in its genre capable of reinventing itself seasonally without losing a bit of what made it great in the first place, as true a testament as any to the strength of its owner’s trust in the skilled and passionate kitchen staff.
RECOMMENDED: Seared Foie Gras, Crunchy Organic Chicken, JG Cheeseburger, Brussel Sprouts, Bone Marrow, Market Apple Pie.
AVOID: If one were to issue any complaint against the current menu it would be that the use of spice in items such as the Shrimp and Crunchy Potatoes seem a bit too aggressive while service in the restaurant’s lower level occasionally appeared strained with empty water glasses common and share plates delivered well after courses were presented.
TIP: According to the Chef, Jean Georges Steakhouse will be undergoing mild renovations in the coming year in order to better ‘fit’ the current Second Floor Restaurant Collection.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://www.aria.com/dining/restaurants/jean-georges-steakhouse
