Mabel’s BBQ
Brisket, Pork Belly, Burnt Ends with Cleveland Pickles and Cleveland Kraut
Cracklin’ – Salt and Vinegar & Lawson’s Chip Dip
J.W.Potatoes – Mabel’s Style with Scallions and Vinegar
Banana Pudding – Nilla Wafers
Key Lime Pudding – Graham Crackers and Coconut Cream
Attempting to make “Cleveland-Style Barbeque” a thing, Mabel’s BBQ sees Celebrity Chef Michael Symon taking time away from television to serve up some spicy sides and slow-cooked meats in half-pound portion, the a la carte only menu problematic for solos or small groups while the price point is almost an insult the city from which it comes from.
Located on trendy East 4th Street, the combination of an upcoming World Series and Cavaliers Banner raising making Northeast Ohio the current center of the Sports World, it was shortly after opening that entry was made to the Bi-level space with a billboard menu and industrial flourishes, the space sallow to fill over the course of an hour with Business Suits prone to order Lean over Fatty Brisket.
Not doubting Symon’s skills in the kitchen, Lola a modest disappointment but the food at Detroit-based Roast well made with great ingredients, Mabel’s sees the Chef and his team utilizing infrequently seen Eastern European influences in their dry-rub while offering only two Barbeque Sauces, one a tangy Mustard-base paying homage to the Ballpark with another presented as the Chef’s personal favorite entitled “Secret Aardvark.”
Opting for two half-pound servings of meat, no combination plates available in a very obvious attempt to maximize profits, a $7 pile of Pig Skins was perhaps one of the most ridiculous upcharges in the history of Barbeque considering they are given away freely in the Carolinas and Texas, the ‘signature’ side oddly cribbed straight from Jonathan Waxman with the addition of a touch of Vinegar and Scallions.
Ordering Brisket fatty, the smoke-ring deep and the meat meltingly tender with a good bit of char on the crust, Pork Belly unfortunately proved far too dry to be enjoyed without a liberal application of the sauces, the majority of it still left on the steel tray as dessert was ordered, the Banana Pudding clearly scratch-made and far lighter in sugar than many while the Key Lime flavor was smooth and tangy, a pleasant end despite its $6 cost contributing to an all-in bill after tax and tip just shy of $65.
www.mabelsbbq.com

