Pujol
Cucumber Margarita – Koch Olla de Barro, Jugo de Limon y Sal de Gusano
Guayaba Shrub – Casa Dragones Blanco, Canela, Shrub de Guayaba, Dolin Dry y Solear
Gordita, Chicharron, Casava
Baby Corn, Chicatana Ants, Mayonnaise, Chili
Jerky Tartar, Mulato Chile, Bean Blossom
Chayote Squash, Sea Asparagus, Maguey Worm Salt
Octopus, Habanero Ink, Veracruzana Sauce
Cauliflower, Almond Salsa Macha, Chile de Arbol
Softshell Crab, Meyer Lemon, Herbs
Charred Eggplant Tamal, Chard
Pork Chicharron, Purslane , Salsa Verde
Ancient Grain Tortillas
Wagyu, Fennel Seeds, Herb Guacamole
Grilled Sea Bass, Peas, Chile de Agua Mayonnaise
Mole Madre 1225 Days, Mole Nuevo
Hojo Santa Tortillas
Sorbet Mango y Pulque
Chocolate Tamal, Guayabate, Tonka Bean
Nicoatole, Burnt Milk Caramel
Vanilla Flan, Chamomile Cream, Thyme
Double Espresso, Ice
Churros
Take home Chocolates
Recently relocated and reconcepted, the opening of Cosme in New York City awakening a desire in Chef Enrique Olvera to make his restaurant more ‘fun,’ it was with a small degree of skepticism based on recent reports that a party of two approached Pujol just as the front gate was opened at 6:30pm on Monday, warm greetings offered by fashionably dressed staff as each diner entered the building.
Originally launched in the year 2000 and making waves amidst the culinary world ever since with modern interpretations of everything from Mexican street food to regional specialties enhanced by the sort of ingredients typically reserved for Michelin starred kitchens, Chef Olvera has been a primary force in elevating his country’s food for almost twenty years while also mentoring many of Mexico City’scurrent culinary stars, his name a permanent fixture amidst the San Pellegrino Top 50, as well as many other ‘Best Of’ lists.
Known to use modern techniques in order to coax the maximum amount of flavor out of everything from imported Wagyu to ancient local ingredients such as Chicatana Ants or Worms, Pujol’s format follows a prix-fixe daily menu that begins with shared snacks and follows with five courses plus Mignardises, four of those offering a choice of several different plates and enough food to leave diners comfortably sated, though those looking to experience more are welcome to add some a la carte selections.
Featuring a large garden out back, a lengthy walk-in only bar lining the opposite side of the room as modern music plays mid-level overhead, it was after a brief introduction to the concept that the server returned along with two Cocktails including a Guayaba Shrub tinged in Cinnamon with bright acid notes carried in a light foam, the opening snacks including a tender fried Corn Cake topped in Pig Skin and smoking Baby Corn dipped in Mayonnaise with adherent Ants adding texture and flavor a bold way to start the evening.
Essentially ordering three tastings, though courses without an option were not doubled up, round number two featured some of the menu’s more interesting styles of preparation, the ‘Jerky Tartar’ placing aged Beef strips in a smoky Chili Sauce tangled up with Bean Blossoms while a tender tentacle of Octopus was first charred and then blackened further with spicy Ink, the center plate featuring thin slices of Squash served Carpaccio style with seasoning from snappy Sea Asparagus and grated Maguey Worms used as salt.
Told that portions were large by the server, course three showing her statement to be true by way of a half-Cauliflower cooked tender with Chile de Arbol atop Almond Salsa as well as a whole Softshell Crab served simply atop an Herb Salad with Meyer Lemon provided to add as desired, it was actually the charred Eggplant Tamale with Swiss Chard and a vibrant red Sauce that proved to be the most complex dish of the trio, a similar flavor to the one tasted at Rosetta just two nights prior making one wonder why restaurants elsewhere have not taken such an approach to the Vegetable.
Focusing on simplicity for the main courses, softened Pork Chicharrones with Green Salsa plus Purslane happily sopped up with Ancient Grain Tortillas while the Wagyu and Sea Bass were both nicely prepared, if not particularly innovative, it was as follow-up that Olvera’s signature plate of “Mole Madre, Mole Nuevo” was presented, the circle of fresh Sauce inside an outer layer aged for 1225 days a study of contrast and commitment, the significant differences between the two truly fascinating whether taken on their own or spread atop warm Tortillas made from Hojo Santa Leaves.
Cleansing the palate with Pulque Sorbet atop diced Mango, dessert at Pujol once again sought to spin tradition modern by way of Oaxacan Chocolate served flakey with Guava paste and Vanilla tones while the tender cake called Nicoatole tasted faintly of Corn beneath bitter-sweet Caramel Ice Cream, the Flan far lighter than any other found in Mexico City with light floral accents while the Churro warrants a similar comment, the coil nearly twice the size and half the weight of the minirosca at el Moro with just sugar added to allow the Cinnamon to be the focal point.
http://www.pujol.com.mx/en/