[lost meals] noca [3], Phoenix AZ

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

Noca Royale – Prosecco, Compari, Lime Cordial

PB&J – Peanut Buffalo Trace, Raspberry, Lemon

Bread

Arancini

Potato Croquette

Funghi Schiacciate – Alba brown and white beech mushrooms, Parmigiano, Mozzarella, Oregano, EVOO

Pork & Beans – Kurobuta Pork Belly Confit, Bean Cassoulet, Mirepox, Bacon

Lamb Porterhouse – Controne Beans, Beech Mushrooms, Peperonata, Olive Cocoa Pesto

Ravioli – Potato, Red Pepper, Mozzarella Filled with Thyme and Brown Butter

Creste di Gallo – Kurobuta Pork Ragu

Six Points Kurobuta Pork Short Ribs – Pommes Puree, Braised Greens, Carrots, Cuisson

Flourless Chocolate Cake – Roasted White Chocolate, Brandy Tuile, Angelfood Crumble

Citrus Semifreddo – Cranberry Campari Marmellata, Toasted Vanilla Bean Angelfood Cake

Cream Cheese Beignets – Chocolate, Goat Caramel, Key Lime Cream

Green Apple Cotton Candy

While my first meal at noca was amongst the best I’ve had in Phoenix my second was unfortunately the disappointing Fried Chicken Face-Off with FnB – a meal that I assumed was an aberration, but one that did not exactly send me running back to either restaurant until my mother and aunt came to town and we decided to visit both spaces on sequential nights…the first a return to noca that proved my speculation correct in providing another meal as good as the first on a crowded Thursday night with the kitchen firing on all cylinders from free gifts of Arancini and Potato Croquettes through the new Pizza/Schiacciate program all the way to Tracy Dempsey’s desserts.

Having enjoyed Italian the night before at Bianco’s Italian Restaurant but well aware of Chef Claudio’s skills with pasta and Eliot Wexler’s strong dedication to sourcing top quality pig and lamb our selections focused heavily on the night’s more hearty and rustic dishes and, as anticipated, our reward was plate after plate of truly excellent cuisine – the Creste and Short Ribs particularly balanced and immaculately prepared while the delicate ravioli and gamey lamb, both delicious, touched on entirely opposite ends of the spectrum – the former silky and subtle while the later was amongst the most flavorful lamb dishes I’ve ever encountered.

Moving from savory to sweet, while I cannot say I’m happy to see yet another restaurant in the area relying on outside sources for their desserts, it goes without saying that Tracy is extremely talented and her range is amongst the best in the business, the dense chocolate cake and light, silky semifreddo equally impressive while the beignets stole the show – each donut light and entirely greaseless while the caramel and key lime cream both warranted a finger to wipe the plate clean.