Maude’s
20th Century – Martin Miller’s Gin, Lillet Blanc, Crème de Cacao, Lemon
Classic Lyonnaise – Escarole, Frisee, Soft Boiled Egg, Grilled Pork Belly, Toasted Brioche
Foie Gras Pate with Quatre Epices, Cognac, Sour Cherry Jam
Country Terrine – Bacon Wrapped Pork Shoulder Pate, Cognac, Whole Grain Mustard, Pickles
Cassoulet – Garlic Sausage, Duck Confit, Braised Pork Belly, Toasted Bread Crumbs
Ricotta Gnocchi – Mushrooms, Cippolini, Chicken Jus
French Press
Chocolate Mousse, Valrhona Chocolate, Maldon Sea Salt
Gilt Bar
Delice de Bourgogne with Apricot Jam and Toast
Chopped Kale, Apple, Pecorino
Ricotta Gnocchi, Pork Belly, Sage
Toffee Date Cake, Coffee Ice Cream, Shortbread Crumble
Imagine, if you will, a perfect evening – for myself that concept brings forth a number of thoughts but foremost amongst them are family, friends, food, and the Los Angeles Kings…all four of them accounted for on the evening of March the 25th, 2013 when I sandwiched a come from behind victory at the Madhouse on Madison between early dinner with my sister at Maude’s Liquor Bar and late-night bites with my buddy Jon at Gilt Bar; the last two restaurants remaining on my Brendan Sodikoff bucket list.
Impressed by everything from the Chestnut at Doughnut Vault to the Fried Chicken and Meatloaf at Bavette’s to…pretty much the entirety of our experience at Au Cheval it should be clear to anyone that Sodikoff has a particular style and with a strong focus on high quality ingredients and proper technique to prepare classic French and American plates that style generally meshes very well with my idea of a great meal – something I would find at both Maude’s and Gilt Bar over a six hour span.
With stellar service the rule – at Maude’s from a young man named Peter and at Gilt Bar delivered by Lisa – plus plush seats and low lighting just like Bavette’s and Au Cheval my general rule at each of Sodikoff’s restaurants is to ask questions and then go with your gut, both literally and figuratively, ordering whatever sounds best with full knowledge that both the flavors and the portions will be bold and bountiful; terrines and pates large enough to serve a party of four, salads garnished with quarter pound portions of pork belly, and finger length gnocchi that melt on the tongue as rich sauces find balance with fine herbs.
From drinks to desserts and salads to a cassoulet as good as any I’ve encountered to date it was with little surprise that I enjoyed both Maude’s and Gilt Bar immensely and having since sent at least half a dozen friends through the doors of Sodikoff’s restaurants the consensus seems to be that no matter which location everyone comes away impressed; no small achievement considering the variety of palates involved and more than enough to make me excited for his next venture – or a return visit to any of the current lineup.