Not a review, but rather the fortuitous collection of three great eateries in the same place at the same time, Friday saw one of our Executives bring Friendly Donut House up from Henderson while Chris Decker from Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast and Jonathan Pluvinet from Rosallie combined to make someone special some favorites for her Birthday.
It was delicious and much appreciated by all involved.
Samples:Chocolate Croissant Bread Pudding, Lemon Poppyseed, Pistachio, Warm Apple Pie with Sour Cherry and Date Crust, Halo Halo Rice Pudding, Orange Cheesecake and Licorice
Harvest Pumpkin Brûlée
Bread Pudding with Count Chocula Gelato, Whipped Cream, Fudge and Caramel
S’Mores Cupcake
Spiced Hot Chocolate
Alfajores
Nougat
Caramel Sable Sandwich Cookies
Salty Caramel Turtle Brownie
Returning from Italy convinced that no Gelato in America compares to the best of what is found in Venice, Parma or Milan, it was late Saturday night that a stop was made at Gelatology on South Rainbow Boulevard, Chef Alberganti taking a deserved night off while her clever creations still managed to make one question whether the Italians are really *that* great.
At this point a highly anticipated Social Media highlight, Desyree’s music videos used to present the days newest flavors to fans and followers alike, it was just past 10:00pm that we entered the small shop where a few couples sat enjoying their selections, a smiling staff instantly recognizable and quickly offering as many samples as one may want.
Taking autumn and its pending Holidays seriously, seasonal concepts including creamy Pumpkin Brûlée that eats almost as smooth as a mousse as it does Gelato plus a pair of Breakfast Cereal concoctions that reminisce of Saturday Morning cartoons it was with long discussion about new baked goods that several small spoonfuls were slowly savored, the Vegan Yellow Pistachio as mellow as those seen overseas while a whole lot of complexity and sweetness was offered from the lengthy-titled Warm Apple Pie with Sour Cherry and Date Crust.
Deciding to focus on new things, a few personal favorites outside the Gelato simply impossible to resist, first bites of the S’mores Cupcake went a long way towards describing why it is served in a cup as opposed to traditional wrapping, the Chocolate base so moist that it almost eats like a Budino while the toasty Marshmallow topping glistens with a Chocolate Shell and Spiced Caramel sauce.
Sipping housemade Hot Chocolate with Marshmallows that roused childhood memories of Abuelita from a friend, it was here that Gelatology brought forth the newly launched Bread Pudding topped with malty Count Chocula Gelato and Whipped Cream plus a duo of Sauces, each bite rich with butter and a light hint of Cinnamon that immediately enters the discussion for Sin City’s best.
Now making her own Nougat in house, no small feat if you ask the Spaniards or Italians who’ve been doing so for centuries overseas, Desyree’s version sees the chewy base brought into sharp focus juxtaposing Pistachios and Walnuts with a light drizzle of Chocolate, the Alfajores and Sandwich Cookies as tasty as ever while the Salty Caramel Turtle Brownie offers a texture not unlike that of Fudge, the liberal use of Sea Salt visually a bit shocking, though actually quite appropriate in balancing the Cocoa-rich square’s density.
FIVE STARS:Perhaps not as “artisan” as some of the Italian houses using nothing but Organic ingredients and mixing everything by hand, Gelatology remains the standard by which all American frozen confections will be judged to this date while Chef Alberganti’s baked goods continue to evolve day-by-day.
RECOMMENDED:Bread Pudding, Salty Caramel Turtle Brownie, Nougat, Vegan Pistachio, Harvest Pumpkin Brulee, Count Chocula, Warm Apple Pie with Sour Cherry and Date Crust Gelato.
AVOID:The Orange Cheesecake and Licorice is simply not suited to my tastes.
TIP:More great things including a Cornetto al Gelato, Banana Split and several new Whoopie Pies are offered every day.Pay attention to @gelatologylv for the temptations du jour.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
https://www.facebook.com/Gelatologylv
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Consistently tempted by Tweets, Instagram photos and Facebook posts of Chef Christopher Palmeri’s most recent inspirations it was with two local business owners that early-Saturday lunch was enjoyed at Naked City Tavern, the space slowly developing its personality by way of a Buffalo Bills mural in the Game Room while the items rolling out from the kitchen continue to speak of a skilled hand and boundless imagination.
Now approaching two months in and deservedly earning accolades from nearby residents as well as writers for the Naked City Pizza classics as well as a Chef’s Menu offering everything from Truffles to Foie Gras, it was with old Black Sabbath playing that our group found seats in the raised room separated from gaming and big-screen televisions, a pair of small monitors tuned to an SEC matchup though the sound was turned off.
Greeted by a smiling Chef Palmeri after the server presented laminated menus and poured drinks, more big news on the way for a man whose hard work has reaped just rewards, it was after a brief chat that the offer was made to cook carte blanche for the table, a total of seven dishes again showing the sort of food one would never expect in a 24/7 gaming establishment.
Discussing everything from Pizza to Travel in eager anticipation of what the Chef would send out, course one featured fluffy Duck Eggs tinged in Basil beneath a dollop of Crème Fraiche and a shower of Summer Truffles, the concept as bold and nuanced as anything from the brunch menu at Bardot or Bouchon with a follow-up of Chicken n’ Waffles that could easily draw similar comparison, the crispy Chicken every bit as rich as the Duck on the Hunter’s Waffle at the former while the price rings in at less than half of Thomas Keller’s despite being just as good.
Turning attention next to handmade pastas, both the Spinach ribbons and long tubes beneath piquant stewed Goat cooked to a springy al dente amidst plenty of sauce, one would be challenged to find a Lobster Pasta of this caliber anywhere in America for less than twenty dollars, let alone one dialed up with a Wild Mushroom Ragu and a light shaving of Truffles imported by a longtime friend of the chef located just down the road.
Competing in a Pizza completion just one week later, and thus taking the opportunity to get some feedback on the structure of the crust and toppings in consideration, a White Pie offered bold house Pesto beneath mounds of melting Ricotta, the crust perhaps a bit low on Salt if one were to quibble, while the follow-up of Calamari offered no lack of flavor with a Buttermilk undertone amidst the heat of Peppers and Cream dialed up with Pappadew.
Still lighter on desserts than one would hope, the Dutch Baby gone from the Late Night and Breakfast menu though Nutella French Toast remains, Basil Gelato from Art of Flavors was beautifully paired to reduced Balsamic and fried Basil in a sort of Caprese Sundae that reminisced of the Tomato and Summer Vegetable Soup at Michelin-starred Il Ridotto in Venice.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Still lacking a bit in décor, Chef Palmeri promising that this is next on the ‘to-do’ list, Naked City Tavern continues to swing for the fences with food that defies any notion of 24/7 dining, the Chef’s Menu slowly catching on as the clientele reveals itself with even more exciting changes upcoming.
AVOID: The Pizza was an off-menu work in progress and currently not available in that form.
TIP: Those looking to catch anything other than Buffalo Bills games should be aware that Naked City Tavern currently does not offer game volume, instead going with an in-house soundtrack occasionally punctuated by TouchTunes.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
One of two Las Vegas locations for the rapidly expanding chain from Utah, an early morning meeting at Kneaders Bakery & Café showed the restaurant to be something akin to the ‘quick-casual’ experience offered at places like Panera or Great Harvest Bread Company, the focus a bit more on breakfast and baked goods than the others with otherwise similar ideas and pricing.
Opened in April 2016 and garnering mixed reviews in an evolving area with no lack of options for grabbing an abbreviated meal or something sweet, Kneaders brings the concept of “European Hearth Breads, made from scratch” from Gary and Colleen Worthington to the masses with a concise menu featuring Soups, Salads and Sandwiches, a few shortcuts undoubtedly taken in expanding the original iteration but still focused on doing as much as possible in-house each day.
Staffed by a youthful team of smiling faces, table service offered along with grab n’ go choices plus Drive-thru, entrance to Kneader’s brings patrons face-to-face with several loaves of Bread and other Pastries; Coffee, Tea and Soda service a DIY situation with Smoothies and Blends also offered for those in the mood for such things.
Pairing a small General Store with Gift Baskets to the experience, items currently offered largely Halloween-themed, it was after exchanging $28.35 for a sizable order that seats were taken at a table in the front corner of the space nearest Eastern Avenue, a pair of mistakes in boxed-to-go selections quickly remedied, though had the contents not been perused prior to leaving a rude surprise would have been found several miles away.
Starting off with two Kneaders classics, the Chunky Cinnamon French Toast only offered with Fruit, Cream and ‘Caramel-Syrup’ despite suggestions on the website of a Banana Cream version, it seems as though the baked slices would benefit greatly from more custard or a quick-sear to impart a little more texture, a far better composition found in Frosting-topped Bread Pudding of which three different flavors are available, the one with Apples and Pecans perfect for Autumn thought the German Chocolate version also looked quite grand.
Completely underwhelming with the doughy Cinnamon Roll, a far better version offered at CRAFTkitchen just up the road, German Chocolate cravings were quashed by a gooey Brownie beneath layers of Coconut and Pecan topping, a trio of Cookies unfortunately seeing ‘Chocolate Chunk’ lacking in its eponymous ingredient while the Oatmeal Raisin and Reeses-esque Peanut Butter versions were well constructed with a soft center and crisp edges.
Fortunately recognizing the requested Carrot Cake to have been replaced by seasonal Chocolate Chip Pumpkin layers it was with both tasted that Kneaders proved more capable than other similar spots of creating something on par with a restaurant quality dessert, each $3.99 stack offering far more spice than sweetness with good cake to frosting ratio, the “Tussie” like a miniature Pecan Pie better on the un-dipped side as the Chocolate came across a bit too sweet and waxy.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Pricy for what it is, though really no different from other similar ideas in today’s “quick casual” culture, Kneaders offers a slightly different look from Panera to those looking for a soup, salad, sandwich or pastry, though in an area with the likes of CRAFTKitchen and others nearby the simple fact is that residents of Henderson and Las Vegas can support a local business and eat far better for only a few cents extra.
RECOMMENDED: Carrot Cake, German Chocolate Brownie, Apple Cinnamon Pecan Bread Pudding.
Banana Ice Cream Profiteroles – Guava and Caramelized Chips
Marzipan Bon-Bons
Brandied Cherries
Scheduled to shutter at Monte Carlo on Thursday, but already looking to regroup and reconcept the recently closed DW Bistro space, it was with two local Chefs that a final meal was enjoyed at Andre’s Restaurant and Lounge on Friday evening, the several course fete stretching nearly 4.5 hours with much of the time passed chatting about what Chef Rochat and the cooks he has trained mean to this town.
Truly one of Las Vegas’ classic dining rooms, white tablecloths draped across banquets, tables and curved alcoves, it was just past 7:00pm that the trio settled in at a four-top twice inhabited before and with a service led by Joe Marsco and Marc Boutiron it was with a semi-selected Carte Blanch from Chef Bulen that the night marched forward, a small amuse accompanying Champagne Cocktails tastefully leading things off.
Lightly playing Rat Pack and Jazz classics as always, the room approximately 3/4 full with several men occupying the Cigar Lounge upstairs, there is little doubt that announcements of pending closure have risen a sense of nostalgia in locals and visitors who probably should have visited more frequently prior, course one arriving with Chef Rochat’s classic Frog Legs along with housemade Rillettes and Jumbo Shrimp snappy and sweet on a bed of boldly flavored Remoulade.
Offering the rare “wedge” worthy of ordering, Chef Bulen opting to divide the head of Lettuce in the kitchen before sending it out, a surprise follow-up of Chicken Forcemeat was topped tableside with an intense Broth that was simultaneously clear as crystal, a ‘Chicken Soup’ as much for the soul as it is for the technique involved and something that Chris suggested he hoped to explore further when he moves to Alize later this month.
Always a place where Foie Gras should not be ignored, both the Terrine and seared Steak with Apricots perfectly textured and substantial enough to share, a large crock of Boudin Noir was featured next as an off-menu special with classic underpinnings, the Stewed Apples and Onions imbued with the poignant flavor of Calvados.
Unable to resist one more round of Sole, the delicate flesh garnished in Brown Butter and Almonds, additional entrees entailed two large Pastas stuffed with King Crab and Peas in a creamy Citrus Sauce, the Rosy Duck Breast perched atop a Cake comprised of Confit and Chickpeas with Pan Sauce, Pickled Plums and Turmeric-tinged Carrot Puree.
Always enthralled by Chef Tammy Alana’s desserts, none new from the last visit though all remain industry standard and reason enough to visit Alize where her sweets stand to highlight the end of every diner’s night, it was with broad smiles that the group sat speaking with the team for another forty-five minutes after the final Brandied Cherry had been consumed with a cup of Espresso, Sin City’s constant reinvention sad on one hand, but at the same time always offering a new reason to be excited for things to come.
FIVE STARS: A perfect meal from start to finish in a space that will soon be lost forever, thanks to all involved for doing what you do and best wishes for everything to come.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Located on South Decatur, in the same plaza as Mochiko Chicken, Amena Bakery and Trader Joes, Tina’s Gourmet Sausage House is one of those places potential patrons pass by without giving a second thought while individuals opting to take a step inside are in for something quite uncommon in society of commoditized Fast Food.
Owned by Michael Ray and managed by a young woman named Zoya, Tina’s is one part artisan Sausage maker and one part importer/purveyor of European specialty goods, a quick look at shelves displaying everything from Breads and Candies to Jams and Pickles, the refrigerator against the wall loaded with imported Dumplings while deli cases sport everything from Organic Sliced Meats to Smoked Fish, Salads and Sausages, at least eight varieties available daily with more depending on special requests or the Chef’s choice.
Moving the business from Los Angeles to Las Vegas in 2015, but originally learning the art of encased Meats when growing up in Ukraine, a brief talk with Michael quickly displays his passion for the craft and after discussing the subtle nuances differentiating several products the decision was made to compose an order of six items, Imported German Bread hot from the oven added last minute and split with another patron at $2.50 per half-loaf.
Unfortunately told that few of the desserts are made in-house, the majority actually frozen imports that are either ready when thawed or requiring of little heating time, it was with a bite of Sourdough that the tasting got started and with a robust crust overlying a soft crumb with gentle sours the flavor was everything one might expect from Rye, though a bit of butter may have helped in areas near the heel where the center was dried out.
Finding samples of the Portuguese Sausage less spicy than expected, the texture snappy and proper but not nearly as complex and well-composed as the Hungarian Kielbasa that compared favorably to memories from my youth, it was onward to a chilly Cod and Catfish link that was a bit *too* fishy that the tasting moved forward, only half eaten and really no better once it was warmed up.
Far more affordable than one might anticipate, the whole lot of food only $22.54, Chicken Schnitzel was an interesting dish in that it featured an amalgam of dark and light meat fried together with Bread Crumbs, the Stuffed Cabbage featuring a lot more filler and less meat than my Grandmother’s with no favors done to it by the watery pink Sauce.
Passing on Brownies, Blondies and outsourced Pies, instead selecting two Cakes imported from overseas and finished in Tina’s oven, dessert proved to be as mixed an experience as the savories before it, the Apple Cake almost like Angelfood with less sugar beneath slices of Fruit while the Brown Sugar may as well have needed a chisel to be chipped away from Coffee Cake.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Certainly a unique store worthy of a look for the attention to detail and a true Artisan’s touch, Tina’s Gourmet Sausage House is best accessed for exactly what the name indicates of it, though the imported goods may offer a bit of additional intrigue to Eastern European immigrants looking for specifics or locals more interested in novelty packaged goods.
RECOMMENDED: Hungarian Kobas, Chicken Schnitzel, Branderburg Apple Cake.
AVOID: Stuffed Cabbage Roll, Cod and Catfish Sausage, Buttercake.
TIP: Those looking for a menu or catering options are encouraged to check out the website where a shopping cart can be arranged and readied for in-store pick-up or delivery.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Date & Bleu Cheese Jam – Buttered Almond, Bacon Bread
Three Beans – House XO, Fish Sauce, Garlic
Spicy Shrimp – Red Curry, Sambal, Coconut Milk
Mini Burgers – Fontina, Criss Cut Potato, Tomato Relish
Whole Smoked Romanesco – Caper, Red Onion, Golden Raisin, Fine Herbs
Meatball Sliders – House Ricotta, Sundae Gravy, Potato Bun
Kimchi Tacos – Scallion Pancake, Short Rib, Asian Pear
Ribeye Cap – Juniper Porcini Rub, House Steak Sauce
Coffee – Lavazza
Fruit Loop Panna Cotta – Orange Sorbet, Raspberry Gummy, Hazelnut
Lost Bread – Cinnamon Roll, Maple Icing, Toasted Pecan
At first feeling a bit guilty about visiting Standard & Pour before the restaurant was even five days old, the choice based on an overseas vacation that would have seen the experience missed for nearly three weeks otherwise, it turns out that feedback offered from that first visit was in fact implemented, a Saturday night return showing the music to be lower and more appropriate while both kitchen and front of house continue to execute at a very high level.
Having thoroughly enjoyed that first meal, half of the menu tasted with only a couple items in need work, night two saw three friends sat at a comfy high-top caddy-corner to the kitchen as the lights of Las Vegas twinkled in the distance for those with the bar to their back, the soundtrack adjusted from Elevator-techno to the likes of Genesis and Beck.
Served by a team of smiling youngsters led by Ed Tracy and Chelsea Anderson, Chef John Courtney working the line and delivering most plates himself, it was with two adult beverages that the evening got started, both similar in concept but delivered quite opposite, the large format Netflix & Chill now offered as single servings during the Four O’clock to 7:00pm Happy Hour in individual glasses while the bottled Raspberry Beret was the sippable sort of sweetness anchored by Citrus Vodka that those not paying attention could quickly get into trouble with.
Focusing mostly on items missed the first time, though the Crispy Oysters and Date & Bleu Cheese Jam could not be passed up for the newcomer at the table while Lost Bread was far better this time thanks to a clever trick filling its core with icing and thus improving texture significantly, early shockers included the Endive and Three Bean Salads, the former a beautiful balance of bitter Chicories with Citrus while the latter was a simple yet bold presentation of what can be done with good ingredients in the hands of a Chef not afraid to challenge diners with bold flavors and spices.
Taking the experiences of Chefs Courtney and Harwell into account, the menu a melding of their distinctive styles that sees them generally working in collaboration, but also exhibiting their own flare, follow-up plates included Happy Hour Mini Burgers topped in crispy Potatoes and Fontina alongside Meatball Sliders decorated in House Ricotta on Potato Buns, each meaty plate of three ideal for sharing, as too is the nicely seared Rib Cap.
Taking some chances with three more plates, the Red Curry Shrimp tamed by Coconut Milk but still heated enough to demand a glass of water or another drink, Whole Smoked Romanesco is perhaps as “head turning” as a vegetable can be in any restaurant, the use of Capers and Golden Raisins yielding an effect no less intriguing than the Kimchi Tacos’ interplay of salt, smoke and sweet.
Continuing to spontaneously serve Coffee with dessert, a joke carried over from Carson Kitchen still as amusing as before, it was after the enhanced Bread Pudding that first bites of the Fruit Loops Panna Cotta were tasted, Chef Courtney particularly proud of the Milk Bar inspired composition that eats light as light as a cloud with subtle malty notes underlying texturally diverse Fruit and Nut flavors.
FIVE STARS: Pairing a gorgeous room with a view to top-quality service and an exciting Bill of Fare, Standard & Pour has immediately emerged as Henderson’s most exciting place for dinner, the music now far less affronting to the senses with no lack of interesting plates built to order with friends and share.
RECOMMENDED: Raspberry Beret, Three Beans, Date & Bleu Cheese Jam, Whole Smoked Romanesco, Lost Bread, Fruit Loops Panna Cotta.
AVOID: N/A, though outside Happy Hour why go Mini Burger or Meatball Slider with so many other great things available.
TIP: Happy Hour Menu is offered 4-7pm daily, four items plus Beers and Wines for $5 with four more plus individual pours of Pool Boy, Netflix & Chill and White Pear Sangria for $8.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Taking a chance on “le petit café & bakery,” a new place less than ten minutes away from Las Vegas’ current reference standard for French pastries, it was with a disheartened sigh that the newer spot was exited, a visit to Rosallie – Le French Café assuring that my palate had not become jaded by a recent trip to Europe while at the same time confirming a belief that Jonathan Pluvinet’s ever evolving restaurant on South Rainbow is exactly the sort of place for which Sin City has long been in need.
Now featuring repainted windows, a center island and the pending Wine Cellar with a soundtrack of French tunes lightly playing overhead, it was just past 11:15am that a camera crew shooting a school project was passed in entering the quaint, casual environment – several folks still sipping Coffee while enjoying a Croissant as others opted for a Quiche, Salad or Sandwich.
Consistently one of the most humble and pleasant Chefs in the City, admittedly someone I consider a friend in addition to his roles as baker and owner of Rosallie, it was after lengthy discussion with Chef Pluvinet that a seat was taken, the young Frenchman sending out both new and old creations including Jam made in France from the Currants of his parents’ garden, plus work-in-progress Caneles and an Apple Cobbler with thick chunks of buttery Streusel offering a brief glimpse of new ideas arriving at Summer’s end.
Having added both Kouign Amann and an Apple Turnover to the menu since my last visit, the former like those in Bordeaux in that the center is soft-set amidst shattering layers of Butter while the latter is flaky and light without a bunch of added sweetness beyond the fresh fruit itself, an hour approaching noon also saw two standout Sandwiches shared with friends arriving later, the Salmon’s subtle flavors enhanced by Capers and Onions while tender Chicken got some heat from housemade Olive Oil Chipotle ‘Mayo’ atop sliced loaves of Pluvinet’s Wholegrain Bread.
Taking sips of a few new beverages, the Mint Latte simply not my style while a Nutella S’mores float atop Coffee and European-style 62% Cocoa Hot Chocolate far better suited the sweet tooth, the flavors of both the out-of-place Tiramisu and an airy Chocolate Mousse each spoke to the use of high quality ingredients, all the other items continuing to show an utmost adherence to craftsmanship with the Almond Croissant and Walnut Pie still a *must* at every visit.
FIVE STARS: Still continuing to think, tweak and create despite establishing a good clientele at one year in, perhaps the greatest comment one can pay to Jonathan Pluvinet is just how ‘authentic’ much of his project truly is, so many items eschewing the American standard of sweetness and instead focusing specifically on how they are offered in his homeland.
AVOID: Canele are a work in progress, but a first taste promises good things.
TIP: New items continue to arrive as time allows to create, the recent “Build your own sandwich” option a great choice at an cost not substantially higher than Major Chains despite sporting superior ingredients.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Newly opened on Medical Center Street, two-doors down from Tipsy Coffee house with high ceilings and decorating that is best described as Paris-by-way-of-Ikea, le petit café & bakery looks to continue a recent trend of great baked goods on both sides of The Valley, a recent visit showing that the restaurant has a long way to go if they wish to compare favorably.
Visited early on Saturday, the doors already open with the manager, baker and two staff present at 8:40am, even though the internet seems to indicate they do not open until 9 o’ clock on this day, it was to cheerful faces and pleasant service that the group greeted patrons from behind a countertop, items still rolling out of the oven as questions were addressed, words such as “authentic” seemingly misplaced for a case of outsourced Gelato flavors while a menu of desserts listed overhead were reported as “not ready yet.”
Finding a seat after placing the order, a total of $16.00 exchanged for seven tastes including a complimentary Ginger Snap, the choice to start with a pair of Danishes was made because the choices were still warm from the oven, the pocket of Strawberry tasting of good Jam juxtaposing Butter while the version described as Lemon was, in fact, Peach – and questionably the soggy sort straight from a can.
Moving on to the Turnover, described as “Caramel Apple” on the menu but more like Motts Applesauce in flavor with a bit more texture from diced Fruit, the Almond Croissant proved to be nothing short of disastrous, prompting one local Chef to ask “Is that a Biscuit?” when he saw a picture of it, the flavor thankfully natural though the lamination was poor while the whole thing certainly would have seen a bit of moisture as a benefit.
Ending on a high note, the Salty Caramel Cookie sort of like a Sugar Cookie with crunchy ribbons coursing through its crumb as large chunks of Dark Chocolate Chip riddled its counterpart, it was in noting that neither the Croissant nor the Turnover had been completed that the manager asked if a box was needed, a response that the former was far too dry leading to the suggestion that I might want a “fresh one to-go” leading to assumptions about what had actually been offered…and not much interest in making a return.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: One year ago le petit café & bakery would have been another average choice amidst many substandard Bakeries in town, but with the launch of Rosallie on the West, CRAFTkitchen on the East as well as the improved quality elsewhere there is very little reason to visit this place when better can be found just a few minutes away.
Slated for big changes sooner than expected, a Friday Dinner at 35 Steaks + Martinis was prompted by a young man’s request for “a good burger,” the subsequent three-hour experience once again proving that the kitchen led by Michael van Staden and Marty Red DeLeon Lopez has long been overlooked even as the restaurant approaches the end of its current run with a menu that continues to outthink all the other Las Vegas Steakhouses.
Undoubtedly the Hard Rock Resort & Casino’s premier dining venue, a poolside location both a gift and a curse based on view and bass, respectively, it was as a party of three that a table with good lighting beneath a photo of Amy Winehouse was shared as General Manager Mario Gonzalez orchestrated a flurry of drinks, flawless service and even some parlor tricks, the duo on the line going well-beyond what was necessary to leave a lasting impression.
Intending only to enjoy the Burger and a platter of freshly cracked King Crab Legs, but soon seeing this modest meal morph into a four-course feast featuring a Baker’s Dozen menu choices – all enjoyed during prior stops – it goes to show just how indulgent each experience has been that the Bone Marrow had gone forgotten in such a short period, the labor-intensive brining and cold-smoke creating a rich spread that was good straight from the spoon, but even better when slathered on grilled Bread.
Still striking a chord with the Foie Gras, Escargot and Carpaccio while both the Burger, Wellington and its accoutrements set a high standard for Sin City, Mario’s wine choices were highlighted by well-priced Chardonnays plus the sticky-sweet Dolce, a Tawny Port older than either tablemate a perfect finish alongside four desserts from which the Sticky Pig and Chocolate Cake remain as elegantly composed as they are decadent.
FIVE STARS: Although change is now underfoot with the restaurant soon to shutter and then to rebrand, there is little doubt that whatever each of the Chefs and their GM do next will be infused with the sort of passion that made this unheralded spot far better than many might have ever expected, the never-ending “Chef Shuffle” on one hand unfortunate but on the other a reason for excitement.
RECOMMENDED: Visiting. Soon.
AVOID: Missing out.
TIP: Live Music in the Lounge begins at 7:00pm.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Little Gem Salad with Guanciale, Gorgonzola, Pickled Onions, Apples, Walnuts
Grilled Octopus with Pickled Vegetables and Limoncello
Squash Blossoms with Blue Crab
Burrata Crostini with Balsamic, Tomatoes, Pesto and Basil
Carne Cruda alla Piemontese Crostini – Steak Tartare with Raw Musrooms
Sweet Corn Agnolotti with Brown Butter
Bucatini all’ Amatriciana
Beef Cheek Ravioli with Butter and Aged Balsamic
Gnocchi with Gorgonzola, Figs, Arugula and Walnuts
Heritage Foods Cider Brined 20oz Pork Chop Milanese with Pepper Jelly
Strauss Farms Veal Chop with Porcini Rub
BBL Dry Aged Bone-In Ribeye
Tagliata di Manzo – BBL Beef, Arugula Parmigiano
Grilled Corn with Pickled Peppers and Lime Salt
Mascarpone & Guanciale Mashed Potatoes
Spinach with Garlic & Hot Peppers
Cauliflower with Lemon and Bagna Cauda
PB&J Cheesecake with sliced Grapes, Salted Peanut Butter
Bacon, Fig, and Pumpkin Tart
Peach Budino with Lemon Butterscotch and Fresh Peaches
Banana Bombolini with Sweet Mascarpone
Espresso, Vanilla, Chocolate Stout Gelato
Melon, Peach, Apricot Sorbetti
La Colombe Double Espresso on Ice
Amaretti Cookie
Having seen a changing of the guard in 2016, Chef Nicole Brisson rising in the B&B Empire to oversee all the Orange-Crocs-clad Chef’s restaurants in The Venetian and The Palazzo, it was without any hesitation that another large-group meal was arranged to celebrate this year’s Olympia Weekend, the restaurant surprisingly quiet on a September Saturday at 8:30pm, even though the Steakhouse remains unrivaled.
Now toqued by Jon Littleton, though the Food & Wine event plus Vacation time saw one of the Sous on the line, it was at a lengthy ten-top in the back room that a group predominantly hailing from New York was seated, a Carte Blanche Prix-Fixe developed by Chef Brisson seeing four-courses and too much drinking, many of the items offered new for the Fall.
A truly epic spread of two-dozen items, the first round offered slightly different from the menu as Crostini or individual bites easily passed around, Steak Tartare and Octopus remain reference-standard examples of why Carnevino continues to accumulate accolades as one of the Nation’s best restaurants, the Little Gem Salad far more than the average Wedge while Squash Blossoms ate like Crab Rangoon on a whole different level as fresh picked Meat was married to just enough Cheese to make each bite stretchy and rich.
Always happy to see the team’s handmade Pastas, a recent trip to Italy raising the bar high, Carnevino’s Bucatini continues to shine as each hollow strand is delivered al dente with richly flavored Meat Sauce, the Off-menu Beef Cheek Ravioli requested in plethora by the man at the head of the table while both the late-Summer Agnolotti and new-season’s Gnocchi were smooth and supple, the portions trending sort of small but the flavors expectedly pronounced.
Going heavy on the meats, a total of three Bone-In Ribeyes carved tableside proving plenty to go around, sides continue to show creativity though the spice of Spinach and brine of Bagna Cauda were not to everyone at the table’s liking, both the Veal and Pork Chop received far more zealously with the zippy Jalapeno Jam delicious not only with the Meats but as a palate refresher as diners sampled around.
Having joked with the Chef and Staff that desserts were sold out by meal’s end in 2015 it was with a glut served that the meal would end, Chef Ashley Costa’s Peach Pudding Cake and Banana Bombolini as elegant in flavor as they are rustic in construction, Gelato a bit over-frozen on this particular evening, but the newly launched Pumpkin Tart and creamy Peanut Butter Cheesecake also very good.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Seeing more than a handful service errors during the evening, the Captain trying to keep it together despite backstaff leaving drinks at the bar, mispresenting plates and serving several items in sizes that were simply not sufficient to go around, the cuisine at Carnevino shows no signs of dropping off under the new Kitchen Staff as the menu continues evolve seasonally with some of the best Meat and Produce in town.
RECOMMENDED: Grilled Octopus, Squash Blossoms with Blue Crab, Corn Agnolotti, Beef Cheek Ravioli, Pork Chop Milanese, Bone-In Ribeye, Banana Bomboloni, Peach Budino.
AVOID: The Spinach did not particularly impress due to the hefty degree of heat while Gelato were rock hard with small ice crystals in the Espresso and Vanilla versions making one wonder if it had thawed and been re-frozen.
TIP: As noted, the menu was large format and some items offered are not yet featured. Contact the restaurant directly for similar group requests.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Gravalax Benedict – Housemade Gravalax, English Muffin, Poached Eggs, Hollandaise, Red Onion, Dill, Crispy Potatoes
Johnny Cakes – Corn, Candied Bacon, Maple Butter, Jalapeno Maple Syrup
Hexxtraordinary Triple Chocolate Sundae – Ecuador, Venezuela and Madagascar Chocolate Ice Cream, Whipped Cream, Frozen Grapes, Bananas, Candied Peanuts and Hot Fudge
Cream Cheese Danish
Blueberry Muffin
Chocolate Scone
Blueberry Croissant
Perhaps not as fanciful during scorching-hot summers when even misters and frigid airflow from the inside struggle to cool the fountain-view patio, HeXX Kitchen + Bar seems primed to continue as one of Las Vegas’ most outstanding 24/7 dining options for the foreseeable future, several new items from Chef Matt Piekarski infusing the menu in recent weeks while the desserts crafted by Carol Garcia are being expanded by a new trade program sending HeXX single-origin Chocolates up the street in exchange for goods from Bouchon Bakery.
Always best for brunch, the scene bustling and vibrant with sports showing at the bar and music not-overly-loud above, it was as a trio including one youngster that a shaded four-top was shared overlooking the crowds on Las Vegas Boulevard, the team led by Ari Stotland continuing to operate at high volume with remarkable efficiency.
Remembered by the hostess and led swiftly to a table on arrival, it was not long before water was poured and menus were on hand, the list of Adult Beverages ever extensive with several large-format options that seem particularly outlandish at noontime, the decision to imbibe nonetheless deemed an appropriate one with both The HeXX and Desert Smash sweet but still Spirit-forward, though the latter’s rich fruit component may have been better enjoyed by a Boba straw or slightly finer puree.
Sipping Iced Coffee from Peet’s throughout the meal, a three-course offering of previously untasted items including three that are all-new, fans of Pancakes remain fortunate that although the top-tier Carrot Cake iteration is temporarily retired it has been replaced by an Apple Cinnamon version that finds textural contrast in Oat Crumble set against two styles of housemade Butter, the flavor not overly sweet unless one opts to add Syrup – a similar statement applicable to a stack of Sweet Corn Johnny Cakes topped in HeXX’s Candied Bacon with a piquant sidecar of Syrup infused with Peppers.
Acknowledging that some veer savory where other go sweet, HeXX has now upped their Egg-based dishes by making cured Salmon and Corned Beef on-site, the Gravalax Benny slicked by perfectly poached Yolks joined by crispy Potatoes while the circular stack of Hash was equally well-crafted as finely shredded Sweet Potatoes proved an inspired choice to help offset some of the Salt.
Continuing to grow the dessert menu, but most intrigued by the Sundaes featuring HeXX’s exclusive single-origin flavors crafted by Atlanta-based High Road, it seemed somehow appropriate to choose the Hexxtraordinary Triple Chocolate Sundae “made for sharing with the table,” a 14-scoop Behemoth offering all of the restaurant’s frozen cocoa options, a selection of pastries taken to go delayed for several hours due to a fair bit of overindulgence in the Ice Cream upgraded by way of Frozen Grapes, Bananas, Peanuts and more.
FIVE STARS: Never content to rest on its laurels, the Chocolate program now rolling out Milk options in each origin with more to come as Matt and Matt travel to remote areas for newer farms, HeXX gets less attention than it should for being a place for good food and a great view rooted in the work of passionate people, something one would be challenged to claim for any other 24-hour venue located in a Las Vegas resort.
AVOID: Assuming anything less than a party of four Adults should aspire to eat the entire Hexxtraordinary Triple Chocolate Sundae.
TIP: Patio seating is offered on a first-come basis, the average wait for two a two-top approximately 30-minutes to an hour during peak times on weekends.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Toasted Chocolate Croissant with Chocolate Ganache
Fig & Red Wine Bundt Cake
Milk Chocolate, PB&J Layer Cake with a Peanut Butter and Jelly Truffle
Brookie
Pecan Chocolate Chip Cookie
Dark Chocolate Pecan Turtle
White Chocolate Macadamia Nut Cluster
Pink Lemonade BonBon, Caramel Sea Salt Truffle, Honey Truffle
Almond Butter Toffee
Fond of Jin Caldwell’s work at JinJu in the Container Park, but rare to visit due to the location, it was with great excitement that a trip was made to JinJu Chocolate, Espresso, Dessert on South Rainbow Boulevard, the expanded space now allowing one of the city’s best Chocolatiers an opportunity to truly show what she and her team can do.
Translated as “treasure,” but also obviously a play on its proprietor’s name, the new JinJu is found just South of Warm Springs Road in a quickly filling shopping complex, the corner-pocket location featuring the work of local artists and a Coffee shop soundtrack with each handcrafted confection presented elegantly in glass cabinets, a fully stocked Espresso station offering a variety of shots and styles in addition to Teas and blended beverages.
Open at 9am daily, fresh baked goods joining Cakes, Cookies and Confections shortly thereafter, it was approximately ten o’clock on Saturday that the shop was entered, Jin and her assistant exceedingly pleasant and happy to describe the concept as well as each item at length to each patron, only one Middle-aged woman arriving during a thirty-five minute stay throughout which a dozen items plus an Iced Double Americano were tasted.
First and foremost a Chocolate maker, the process described in layman’s terms on one wall with everything from Truffles to Bars to BonBons and larger creations available, it was nonetheless that baked goods commanded attention as a good way to start the morning, both styles of Croissant toasted to order with the Almond version far more subtle than many amidst layers of lamination while the Cocoa-topped iteration proved a far more decadent investment as the warm pocket was subsequently piped full of molten Dark Chocolate.
Opting to next taste some of Chef Caldwell’s cakes, a total of four available daily at $5.25 per slice, one would be labored to find a better price for a Bundt Cake as elegant and well-crafted as the one crafted from Figs, Wine and Chocolate, one of two wedges probably enough for one sitting even when served with a beverage while the other seems well suited for a glass of Wine later that evening, the Milk Chocolate PB&J slice perhaps a bit sweeter than it need be, the best parts those mellowed by salty chopped Peanuts.
Taking parts of each Cake to go and adding to them by way of a Brookie, Cookie and several Chocolates, those familiar with Chef Caldwell’s work from before will be happy to see all of her signatures returned along with several new options, the Honey Truffle a bit muddled in my opinion while the Salted Caramel and Pink Lemonade were both explosive and smooth in their delivery, the latter ordered largely because it seemed preposterous but actually helping to accent the bitter notes of the cocoa against the citrus cream filling.
Not particularly wowing with the cookie, larger chunks of chocolate likely a better choice considering the quality of her JinJu’s tablets and bars, suffice it to say that the shop’s take on Baked’s famous hybrid is every bit as tasty as the original and probably even better in-house warmed up, the Toffee a bit more flaky than some of the more buttery British versions encountered while the Pecan Turtle as well as the new Macadamia Nut Cluster were both a nice balance of flavors and textures benefitted by the quality of Jinju’s Cocoa Beans.
FOUR STARS: Expanding South Rainbow even further, the Boulevard already featuring the likes of Rosallie, Peridot, Gelatology, Sugar Bee’s and Drago Sisters, Jin Caldwell has created a beautiful space from which to offer longtime signatures while also exploring the boundaries of her creativity, future visits undoubtedly necessary to further explore.
RECOMMENDED: Chocolate Croissant, Fig and Wine Bundt Cake, Brookie, Dark Chocolate Pecan Turtle.
AVOID: Honey Truffle tasted mostly like Chocolate while the Cookie was just a cookie.
TIP: 10% off the next order coupons available via indoor flyer, Grand Opening coming soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Canapes – Crispy Salt Cod, Puff Pastry with Pistachio and Basil, Tartlet with Ragu
Crackers and Hard Breads
Whole Wheat and White Sourdough
Al-Aimo – Red Tomato Tartare, Green Tomato Tartare, Fava Beans, Ricotta Cheese, Pistachio Cream, Tomato Sorbet
Raw Langoustine Rolls – Crispy Spaghetti, Algae, Beetroot
Cuttlefish Cappuccino – Cream, Ink, Potatoes
Crispy Buffalo Ricotta and Mozzarella Cannelloni with Tomato Sauce
Smoked Taglioni with Egg Yolk Shavings, Gelatin of Ham Broth and Anchovies
Saffron, Juniper and Licorice Powder Risotto – old and new
Hand chopped Piemontese Beef with Black Truffles
Bone Marrow with Herbs
Fried Fish Bone with Balsamic foam
Roast Suckling Pig with Mustard Foam and Coffee Powder, Chicory
Bellini Sorbet – Peaches and Citrus
Almond Mozzarella – Honey, Rice and Olive
Melted Tartlet with Apricot and Curry, Gold Leaf
Fruit Sphere
Located in Rubano and toqued by Massimiliano Alajmo, a man whose cooking earned him 3 Michelin Stars at the record breaking age of 28, le calandre proved an exemplary way to wrap a trip stretching across North Central Italy comprised of 18 Etoiles de Bibendum and thirty-eight eateries total, the Chef’s “classico” menu taking a look back at the sort of cuisine that, in most places, has yet to come.
Unassuming from the outside, a low white building demarcated by a simple sign naming both le calandre and the more casual il calandrino nextdoor, it was just minutes prior to a 13h00 reservation that the group arrived at Via Liguria 1, a warm greeting at the door quickly seeing us ushered to a dimpled carved wood table playfully decorated with two balls of yarn.
Every bit the modern fine dining experience, leather-aproned waiters with personality describing dishes while pleasantly conversing about topics far-and-wide, it was with a glass of bracing Natural 2015 Muni Rosa Frizzante that a quintet of Crackers and Hard Breads were tasted while perusing the menu, three distinct tastings exploring seasonality versus tradition, the only flaw being that all at the table are required to dine the same.
Not particularly full for Saturday lunch, only half of the tables spoken for during the course of a 210 minute stay, Canapes came by way of creamy Baccala wrapped in Shrimp Chips along with Puff Pastry and a Pizza-like Tartlet, the Yarn tacked to a nearby wall with pins and replaced by warm loaves of White Sourdough and Whole Wheat Bread.
Truly a progression of classics, Chef Alajmo’s famous “Al-Aimo” showing several sides of the Tomato by way of two Tartares, simple slices plus Sorbet paired to Fava Beans, Pistachio Cream and freshly made Cheese, course two spun the Spring Roll on its head with Italian inspiration, the Langoustine Sashimi served with pureed beets and added umami beneath a “Crispy Spaghetti” cage.
Presented now as course three, but once the restaurant’s very “First Taste,” Cuttlefish Cappuccino presents a creamy black and white potage that will leave almost anyone craving just one more bite on account of the complexity of taste, temperature and texture, a tube of Ricotta di Bufala eating more like Cannoli than Cannelloni with a sidecar of Tomato Sauce.
Presenting a unique take on Carbonara that saw smoky Noodles topped in shaved, cured Egg Yolk with Ham Stock and Anchovy slices delivering even more brine, the “old and new” representations of Risotto asked diners to pick a favorite of identical ingredients in different presentations, the creamy version via Creuset far more aromatic while the newer version slowly saw the grains fall from its center into a sort of Rice Soup.
Offering choices for a couple of courses, silky Beef Tartare veiled in Black Truffles followed up by brûléed Bone Marrow versus a puff of Fish Bones rendered into the texture of Cheetos with Balsamic Foam at its side, the finale of Suckling Pig offered an explosive foray into bold bitters including a stack of boiled Chicories, the Chef clearly anticipating the impact of its flavors and quickly following up with a palate cleansing Peach and Prosecco Sorbet.
Not a light meal by any means, portions including the Bone Marrow very generous with flavors equally robust, breads were soon replaced by wooden spheres presenting several fruit slices as dessert was prepared in the kitchen, the “Almond Mozzarella” a shattering orb of Honey, Rice and Olive while a “Melted Tartlet” ate far lighter than one might guess looking at it, the base of Apricot enhanced by the flavors of Curry as a light Custard melted forming a pool of cream around it.
Taking some time to chat as the dining room emptied, a can of Tomatoes given to each female as a parting gift, it was with the check paid that a quick stop was made at the attached bistro and patisserie, the cakes and tarts admittedly quite tempting, as too was a market selling everything from cookbooks to canned goods, serviceware and jellies.
Originally located in Paris and since opening stores in London, Japan and Milan, it was on the newest location that four hungry Americans descended on their final day in Europe, the French once again showing why no one really talks about Italian Pastry as each of eight items was as flawless in its execution as it was attractive in its delivery.
A friendly and brightly lit version of the original, glass domes over display pieces with pre-packaged items for sale along the wall, entry to Patisserie des Reves sees patrons placed face-to-face with the counter and more than two dozen elegant novelties, the prices lower than similar venues stateside and for the most part on par with the rest of Milan despite being higher in quality.
Completely taken by the fact that the Café expanding to the rear was so large and unpacked it was with tableside service that a large order of eight items was delivered in addition to coffee, the Double Espresso served with ice one of the creamier ones seen in Italy and perfect for refreshing the palate after each unique taste.
Truly a glut of food, the total cost of €34 quite reasonable all-in-all considering, first bites of Brioche showed a springy crumb lightly tinged in Citrus, the follow-up Raspberry Croissant a bit less perfect as the seeded Jam had created a touch of sog on the bottom layer though no such problem was seen in the freshly made Paris Brest that placed airy layers of crisp Choux around a lightly whipped Cream of Hazelnuts.
Continuing with more Hazelnuts, their combination with Dark Chocolate Chips in a Financier imparting that familiar Nutella taste, an even better bite was found in the toothsome Honey Almond Cake that was still warm from the oven, an attribute shared by the reference-standard Fig Tart with a flaky pastry bottom, not to mention the unrivaled Tart Tatin served complete with housemade Whip.
Smoked Red Tomato Tartare, Capers, Ricotta di Bufala
Crispy Red Pepper and Prosciutto di Parma
Ginger and Mint marinated Summer Melon
Mussel stuffed with Mozzarella, Tomatoes, Celeriac, Turmeric
Porcini, Zucchini Blossom, Carrots and Chocolate
Chick Pea, Polenta, Chicory, Cippolini Onions
Grissini, Hard Rolls, Toasted Wheat, Unsalted Pretzel Twist
Sea Bream from Liguarian Sea marinated with lemongrass and Mothia Salt with Polignano Carrots and Passion Fruit Granite
Etrurian Soup with Vegetables of the Season, Legumes, whole Tuscan Farro, aromatic Herbs and dried wild Fennel Flowers
That’s Raviolo! With raw, crispy Cuttlefish from the Adriatic Sea, Lemon Marmalade, smoked Scarmorza Cheese and Beetroot Granite
Carnaroli Rice with purple Shrimp from Sanremo, Nocellara Olive Oil, Datterini Tomatoes, Burrata Cheese, Fresh Herbs
Tortelli filled with Osso Buco of Piedmontese Veal and its Marrow with a reduction of its Stock flavored with Sardinian Saffron and Parmigiano
Lamb and its Offal cooked confit in Extra Virgin Olive Oil, with Sauce of Wild Herbs and Fruit Moustarda
Hard local Cow’s Cheese with candied Kiwi and Banana, Toasted Panettone
Smoked Meringue with Rosemary and Aged Balsamic
Almond Milk, “Black Cloud of Marshmallow and Licorice,” White Chocolate, Lime Foam
Mignardises and Chocolates
Double Espresso
Located on the outskirts of Milan and featuring a revered focus on Modern Italian cuisine Il luogo di Aimo e Nadia was chosen for the final dinner in Italy for a group of four touring the region, the meal a beautiful one save for a few glitches in service and dessert that fell flat largely as a result of personal tastes.
Fancied in part due to the brightly lit environment and Abstract artwork, enormous canvases flanking both sides of the room as light music plays, it was perhaps twenty minutes late that our party arrived due to traffic, the Maitre d’ a generous man happily sharing stories of almost ubiquitous delinquent arrivals for the same reason throughout the restaurant’s storied past.
Now over fifty years old, a Michelin Star or Two held for several over time, it was at a plush four top that the group sat with water quickly poured and refreshed frequently, the Server making inquiry as to the purpose of our travels and on hearing the dining agenda deciding to put on a show.
Helmed by husband and wife, Aimo and Nadia Moroni joined by daughter Stefania who manages the space now toqued by Fabio Pisani and Alessandro Negrini, a meal at Il luogo is best described as a dialogue with Italian ingredients tinged in French influences, the cuisine almost Mediterranean at times without losing sight of its historical relevance.
Divided into two tasting menus and a la carte options, an eponymous degustazione offering the most immersive look at Fabio and Alessandro’s cusine, dinner began with “a small taste” set to stretch nearly thirty minutes across six bites plus Bread service, the Crispy Red Pepper with Prosciutto di Parma and Mussel stuffed with Mozzrella, Tomatoes, and Celeriac particularly elegant when paired with a brisk 2013 Etna Bianco DOC.
Awkwardly paced despite a half-filled restaurant early on, delays between dishes ranging anywhere from fifteen minutes to forty, the tasting officially commenced with marinated Sea Bream that proved surprisingly capable of standing up to Passion Fruit and Carrots thanks to Herbs and Sea, a follow-up of Vegetable Soup with Legumes far more luxurious than one may anticipate, though a bit too substantial in portion considering the number of courses to follow.
Matching the room’s vibrant color scheme with “That’s Raviolo!”, a clear Noodle with Creamy Scarmorza infused with Ink at its center, the Risotto to follow was an equally impressive plate pairing Carnaroli Rice with purple Shrimp from Sanremo, a bold bouquet of Herbs completing the picture with stewed Tomatoes and crispy Capers.
Offering up a perfect duo of Veal Tortelli lightly dressed in fragrant sauce as the meal marched on, it was after a lengthy delay that a Croquette of confit Lamb concluded savory rounds, another thirty minutes pushing past 23h00 as we inexplicably awaited a nameless local Cheese with candied Fruit and toasted Panettone.
Perhaps valuing desserts more than the average diner, but previously quite impressed by most of Italy’s Pastry Chefs, a Smoked Meringue with Rosemary and Aged Balsamic spoke to great balance achieved by way of tradition, the “Black Cloud of Marshmallow and Licorice” unfortunately coming through both bitter and acidic with no favors done to it by the oddly placed glass of Almond Milk.
Taking a double Espresso with Mignardises, September 10th having just begun, it was with a bit of chat that the whole team thanked us for spending the night in their restaurant before offering a complimentary copy of the menu, still a memorable experience – though one that could have been done in half the time without compromising the night at all.
With two locations in Milan and accolades as a *must* by many trusted friends, a stop at Il Massimo del Gelato on Corso Magenta proved mandatory before heading to dinner at Il luogo di Aimo e Nadia, rumors proving to be well founded amongst the four flavors selected.
Decorated in clever Renaissance paintings augmented with Ice Cream, the soundtrack classic Italian playing softly over one clerk offering twenty-six flavors, Il Massimo del Gelato features several single-origin Chocolate choices separated from the rest in an entirely different freezer chest, Bacio di Vienna completely different from Domori or Fiji with samples showing complete smoothness with Cocoa notes coming across very robust.
Opting for a housemade Waffle Cone, a bit of flex allowing slow-melting dribbles to be absorbed, a four ball offering saw textbook Straciatella crackling with Chocolate ribbons amidst the smooth Crema while both Pistachio and Almonds were well executed with a touch of salt amidst what may as well have been frozen Nut Butter, the Fig an extremely natural representation of the ingredient with small pockets of sweetness amidst strands of fruity fiber.
An impromptu stop along a walking tour from The Last Supper to Duomo, Van Bol & Feste presents much like an Italian “Bakery Cafe” concept akin to America’s Panera, the combination of outdoor seating and fast service allowing for a quick fifteen minute break during which a few Pastries and Gelato were sampled.
Spacious and nicely decorated with high ceilings and a coffee bar plus a menu of Salads, Pastas and Sandwiches, most entering Van Bol & Feste are immediately drawn to the freezer case and glass shelves nearest the patio and where English-friendly youngsters are situated to answer questions while also offering samples.
Featuring an in-house bakery and Gelateria, the latter sending out fifteen flavors daily with bright colors and far more sugar than frozen confections tasted in Milan, Venice or Parma, a three-scoop cone of Crema, Straciatella and Pistachio proved respectable though not exemplary, the portions bigger than most though the texture was a touch icy.
Moving on to the pastry program, no less than two-dozen classics and novelties glistening beneath glass, a Sfogliatella seemed mandatory given the lack found throughout our travels and with light layers quick to shatter around soft Cream both flavor and texture were on par to any experienced prior, the Plum Cake something like an enlarged Financier infused with Port Wine while the Chocolate Cake was light on fruit flavor, though still quite rich and moist.
Grissini and Sourdough with Bordier Salted and Seaweed Butter
Confit of Guinea Hen with Parsnip Mousseline, Green Apple, Spinach
Riso – Cognon Style with Vegetables, Maccagno Cheese and Raspberry Powder
Gnocchi – Potato and Squid Ink Dumplings with Oyster and Orange Scented Crab Soup
Rombo – Roasted Turbot with Asparagus, Caviar, Egg Mimosa and Rosemary scented Miso Sauce
Petto Di Piccione – Pigeon Breast stuffed with Foie Gras Escalope, Polenta with Pain Brioche and Pineapple
Pre-Dessert – Peaches, Apricots, Olives and Lemongrass Ice Cream
Campari – Grapefruit, Cherry, White Chocolate
Souffle al Cioccoiato – Chocolate Souffle with Cucumber Sorbet, Rosemary and Mango
Mango Cream Quenelle, Cream Puff, Raspberry Financier, Chocolate Ganache Tart, Baba au Rhum
Located in The Mandarin Oriental Milano, a ground floor expanse flowing from kitchen to lounge to dining room and outdoor courtyard, Seta was selected for lunch based on the words of trusted palates as well as Bibendum, a 110-min meal showing all the hospitality expected from the brand with cooking that outperforms the Michelin 1* level.
Opened in 2015 and toqued by Antonio Guida, a former 2* Michelin recipient at Il Pellicano in Tuscany, Seta offers a contemporary look at Italian cooking influenced by time in kitchens from Europe to Asia, stints at Pierre Gagnaire and Don Alfonso unmistakably influencing plating as well as flavor profiles, beauty with balance achieved in some of the most unlikely places.
Booked for private events both nights in town, afternoons open with the full menu available in addition to a Business Lunch that varies frequently, it was just past 12h30 that a posh table in the shaded outdoors was suggested, Wi-Fi and reading material kindly offered along with the menu from which four plates were selected, Chef Guida stopping by shortly thereafter and self selecting to add two more at no charge.
Skipping canapes for unknown reasons, instead sending out crisp Grissini and Warm Sourdough with the same Butters offered at Pierre Gagnaire’s Twist at The Mandarin Oriental back home, confit Guinea Hen began the menu as an amuse far more memorable than many thanks to Parsnips and Green Apple, a bed of soft Rice thickened by Cheese at the center of herbal Veloute absolutely enchanting with light notes of Raspberry soon to follow.
Not a meal to be rushed, though several suits managed to consume three courses plus wine in sixty minutes or less, course two featured seven black Dumplings under a veil of tentacles with flavors of the ocean front-and-center, a filet of roasted Turbot with Asparagus and Caviar a ‘gift’ in every sense of the word in a pool of effervescent Miso Mayonnaise.
Not remotely a ‘small plates’ place, two a la carte courses likely to satisfy most, secondi consisted of a large Pigeon Breast cradling seared Foie Gras atop a bed of Polenta with Breadcrumbs and Pineapple, pre-dessert similarly embracing a sweet/salty juxtaposition as dehydrated Olives punctuated a Sundae with Stonefruits.
Acknowledging that the selected dessert would take twenty minutes, and thus opting to offer one more gratis during the wait, flavors of Campari were presented in a refreshing array of flavors, textures and temperatures, the “Souffle al Cioccoiato” reaching for the ceiling in all its fluffiness and coming across bitter yet elegant with a side-dish of Cucumber Sorbet, Rosemary and Mango.
An artisan Chocolatier and Bakery located at Via Augusto Anfossi 10, current sidewalk repairs and subdued signage making the space difficult to identify during a Friday morning visit in September, Ernst Knam is considered the “King of Chocolate” in Milan and operating his shop near Piazza Cinque Giornate since 1992 a brief look spoke of a man not only passionate about what he does but also one still learning, the flavors of his confections often as challenging as they are delicious.
Apparently a popular face on Food Television overseas, the store itself tight yet clean with a substantial variety of choices available, it was after perusing several Cakes, Tarts, Caramels and Chocolates as oddly shaped as the Kama Sutra that selections were made to take elsewhere for consumption, a trio of chocolates showing a thin shell that breaks cleanly and dissolves smooth around a number of unique fillings from which Olive Oil and Balsamic were chosen, though “Wood,” “Speck and Pepper,” and Pomodoro were oddly enticing.
Unable to resist the elegant array of Tarts, a cost of €5,25 each actually a bargain all things considered, it was with the Chocolate Pumpkin Pie that first bites were enjoyed in a somewhat savage way without utensils, the Pepitas and Salt Crystals adding crunch to an otherwise creamy base while the Pear, Pinenut, and Chocolate Ganache version played off a similar ideas with the fruit’s sweetness helping to mellow the rich Chocolate center.
Taking a very different approach with item three, a little bit of flour folded in to 72% Cocoa beneath a thinly sliced layer of Figs, suffice it to say that there may be no better “Brownie” anywhere than the one Ernst Knam is selling, the base achieving a rare balance of light texture with intense flavor and little more than the glazed fruit adding sweetness.
