Cracked Wheat Semolina Sourdough and Sesame Pain au Cereal
Lemon and Basil Ricotta Agnolotti with Smashed Tomato and Bread Crust
Fig and Salami Risotto with Cured Lemon and Toasted Pistachio
Bunch of Grapes – Pizzutella Grape Sorbet, Concord Grape Pudding, Yogurt Cake, Rice and Corn Biscuit, Cider Jelly
Hearth’s Dessert – Black Chickpea Ganache, Candied Chickpeas, Zucchini Blossom Sorbet, Almond Shortbread, Black Truffle Pearls
Etigua Espresso with Meringue, Biscotti, Cookies
Described as a “Neo-Bistro” since its 2009 opening and challenging the concepts of what constitutes a Michelin starred Italian restaurant by way of its informal approach to Slow Food ideals and sustainability, Ratana is located amidst the slowly rejuvenating remains of Porta Garibaldi in Milan, the former storage space said by some to be turning out some of the city’s most interesting and inspired plates.
Eschewing white tablecloths and Tuxedoed service, a team of women in jeans and hirsuit young men bustling around for patrons wearing everything from t-shirts to three-piece suits, entry to Ratana sees patrons face-to-face with a scene more Venice California than the one a couple hours eastward, a tight bar and high ceilings reverberating overhead modern music with a dining room decorated in wood sporting closely packed tables.
Having made reservations, but treated as a walk-in with a two-top at the room’s center soon mine for the duration of a ninety minute stay, it was from a menu that changes daily in hand that options were deliberated, an original request for three plates deemed to be “too much” by one man, the housemade Headcheese reluctantly omitted and instead replaced by a duo of desserts.
More than a little impressed by the warm bag of Bread, both Sourdough and Sesame options warm and robust with a dense crumb, course one saw the kitchen send forth creamy pockets of Pasta stuffed with Citrus-scented Ricotta, the Tomato enhanced by a touch of smoke with texture added by toasted Bread Crust, the follow-up Risotto making sense of the server’s comments regarding portion, though the complex mélange of sweet, salty and sour with crunchy Pistachios was so varied and beautiful that the deep bowl in no way seemed to be “too much.”
Unable to decide on just one dessert, all five offered actually sounding quite great, it was after much indecision that the two most intriguing compositions were optioned for, a pull of Single Origin Espresso pairing well with the flavor of Grapes and Cider but even better with the inspired Vegan-Friendly spread of subtly sweetened Chickpeas and Zucchini Blossom with a nose of Black Truffles and crumbled Shortbread.
Given the international status of Milan it should not be expected that a smattering of imports and trendy concepts have begun to infuse their dining landscape, yet taking into account the seemingly universal belief of Italians regarding their craftsmanship being unparalleled Pave still seemed like an outlier, the food and the service both seemingly transported from Brooklyn’s Hipster scene.
Located on Via Felice Casati and offering traditional counter service in addition to a smattering of tables packed-to-capacity even at the off-hour of 10h00 on a Thursday, patrons entering Pave may be shocked by the frenetic pace and high volumes created by high ceilings and loud voices, the exposed kitchen seeing a flurry of activity as Baristas quickly pull shots while also running tabs and shelving fresh Pastries.
Taking a modern approach to their work, none of the standard Bombolini, Cornetto or Cannoli offered elsewhere to be found, humorous T-shirts including “Bread or Death” and “Chocolate is the Answer” flank a collection of perhaps two-dozen daily choices, the Lemon Plum Cake eaten warm from the oven nicely flavored with a moist, crumbly texture while an equally fresh Croissant saw it’s golden shell shatter into a hundred pieces around a whole grain center stuffed with Prune Jam.
Further impressing with the complex flavor of fresh Apricot, Walnuts and soft-set Custard at the center of a laminated square as a coil of springy Brioche saw senses refreshed by the flavors of Ginger juxtaposing toasted Hazelnuts, the tasting of Pave ended with a pair of French Classics showing the St. Honore to unfortunately be slightly soggy while the just-stacked Millefoglie fared far better with Zabaglione offered as a stand-in for traditional Custard or Cream.
A tight eatery on Corso Magenta, essentially a table, counter, some specialty goods and two employees, Ammu Cannoli has grown a reputation for bringing perfect versions the Sicilian classic to Milan, an early morning Thursday visit finding several locals already indulging with members of our group not far behind.
Selling several locally-made Chocolates plus Confections including spreads and dips, it was in squeezing past three others that way was made to the back-left of the space, a young man dutifully removing delicate shells from a container and piping them with Mascarpone and Ricotta filling, a total of three toppings offered on this particular occasion with one-each of the €2 ‘mini’ sizes selected.
Factually the first filled-to-order Cannolis found from Venice to Modena, Parma and Milan, it should go without saying that expectations were high going into the first bite of Ammu’s options, a brisk snap showing the shell to be perhaps 1cm thick with an intrinsic touch of sweetness, the filling creamy without being heavy as the Buffalo’s Milk and Lemon Zest offered a complex backdrop to the ingredients stuck on top.
Located in Southwest Milan and thus afforded the ability to curtail prices while offering plenty of space to sit, Pasticceria Castelnuovo was perhaps the perfect way to start off a day following dinner and the drive from Dal Pescatore, the staff far more friendly than other Italian Bakeries as they tried their best to make do with limited English before also offering up fresh Cream for the Coffee plus a plate of complimentary tastes.
Founded in 1945 and having maintained a homey interior where the full pastry kitchen can be seen through glass behind the counter-top, Pasticceria Castelnuovo opens every day except Monday at 08h00 with a focus on Italian classics given a Milanese focus, several items not previously seen in Venice or Parma soon to become regular findings including a Brownie-dense cake entitled Torta Enrico that marries Pears to Chocolate with almost no additional sugar making for a bold, bittersweet taste.
Offering several styles of Petit Fours, Tartlets and Cookies, those with Marzipan and Nuts a beautiful balance of textures that saw sweetness tempered by natural savory notes, both the Cream and Jam Croissants were still toasty warm with well-separated layers of lamination beneath their golden exterior, a tiny Layer Cake of Rice infused with Rum also quite pleasant.
Fried Pumpkin, Eggplant, Tuna and Prosciutto on Toast
Parmigiano Reggiano 30 Month Crisps
Black Olive Grissini, Butter with Onion, White and Wheat Breads
Tomato and Eggplant Terrine with Celery and Basil
Culatello di Libello Seleziene 30 Months
Lobster Terrine with Oscietra Royal Caviar, Ginger and Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Summer Vegetable Fantasy with Pumpkin, Ricotta di Bufala, Eggplant, Sea Bass
Anselmi 2011 I Capitew
Foie Gras with Peaches, Passion Fruit, Sweet Wine Demi, Sorrel
Fresh Fettuccine with Bottarga, Salt Cod, Olives and Salsa Pomodoro
Pumpkin Tortellini with Amaretti, Mostarda and Parmigiano Reggiano
Frog Legs with fine Herb Salad, Celery, Polenta
Roasted Duck with Pear, Apple, Quince and Balsamic
24 Month Parmigiano Reggiano di Collina, Gorgozola Malghese and Caprini della Vialattea with Panettone and Apricot Gelee
Mignardises
Pistachio Mousse with Meringue and Marsala Zabaglione
Pinguine di Ciccolate with Candied Hazelnuts, Ricotta, Biscotto and Gianduia
One of Italy’s most renowned houses of haute-cuisine, the elegant dining room and its proprietors having earned 3-Michelin Stars consistently since 1996, Dal Pescatore has literally turned Canneto sull’Oglio into a culinary destination, a 19h30 Wednesday arrival finding the restaurant newly ready for service with the team fresh off their yearly August vacation.
Opened in 1926 as a family restaurant, but since growing in size and grandeur thanks to the self-trained style of Nadia and Giovanni Santini invigorating the region’s natural bounty with passion as well as technique, Dal Pescatore looks to tell its story in a manner far different from other’s of similar age or worldwide ‘ranking,’ modernist concepts tossed by the wayside in favor of time honored tradition with an eye towards luxury.
Truly a gorgeous restaurant, the front foyer filled with paraphernalia from Dal Pescatore’s history plus several books, guides and awards, it was after a brief look around the space that four were escorted to a table amidst hardwood and bright colors, the floor-to-ceiling windows looking out on a center courtyard where several cats frolicked throughout the evening, a choice of the Santini’s most sizable tasting the only reasonable option , a total of ten-courses plus several Canapes and Mignardises easily justifying the €250 cost.
The first table to sample some of the season’s newest inspirations, this the restaurant’s first service after well-deserved time off, lightly fried Pumpkin joined Eggplant Fritters and Tuna with Pork on Crostini to kick off the evening, thin crisps of aged Cheese offering an explosion of flavor before one of many bread services, the Grissini and Onion Loafs particularly delicious with a grinder of Fleur de Sel at the table allowing for augmentation of Butter from a nearby farm and creamery.
Celebrating late-Summer with finely-chopped and marinated Tomato compressed between sheets of Eggplant and subsequently moving to the sixth taste of Culatello in twenty-four hours, Terrine two upped the ante on number one substantially, thin slices of Lobster Ceviche wrapped in sheets of Seaweed topped with a spoonful of Siberian Oscietra Caviar.
Served slow and steady, the mood very European but made jovial by members of the Santini family frequently stopping by, a “Summer Vegetable Fantasy” arrived with strips of Squash curled around housemade Ricotta, Eggplant and Sea Bass, a tense moment occurring next when Nadia and team sent forth Foie Gras with Peaches and Passion Fruit, the often-cloying fruit thankfully mellowed by the sauce plus a splash of local Sweet Wine that the Sommelier poured gratis.
Hand cutting Fettuccine to be paired with briny Bottarga, Salt Cod and Olives before pulling back on the reins with vibrant Salsa Pomodoro, Dal Pescatore’s signature Pumpkin Tortellini was presented next beneath a lacquer of Fruit infused Butter plus gratings of Cheese and Amaretti Cookie, the balance admittedly tilted a bit sweeter than anticipated though the overall effect was still quite stunning.
Rounding out savories with Frog Legs and an aggressive Herb Salad followed by rosy roasted Duck paired to Pear, Apple and Quince in a Balsamic bath, the Cheese course comprised three perfectly aged local specimens with Apricot Gelee and sweet Bread, a silver tray of Mignardises offered for nibbling while desserts were prepared.
Taking advantage of a short break to explore the space further, several knick-knacks giving the elegance levity and a “feels like home” appeal, self-selected desserts included light options such as Pistachio Mousse with Meringue and well as a Dark Chocolate Sundae complete with a smiley face, a truly memorable evening ended by the team asking for a picture with us as opposed to the other way around plus a signed copy of the menu and hand-painted bookmarks to take home with the memories.
Pistachio, Stracciatella, Millefoglie, Sicilian Almond with Pistachio Cream in a Dark Chocolate filled Cone
White Chocolate and Gianduia in a Dark Chocolate filled Cone
Semifreddo Zuppa Inglese
Exiting K2 and making a bee line to Via Emilia Santo Stefano 21 it was on Emelia Cremeria that sights were set for more frozen indulgence before traveling to Dal Pescatore in Canneto sull’Oglio, the regional chain showing not only a unique collection of flavors not seen elsewhere in Milan or Venice, but also serving their creamy concoctions atop freshly made cones filled with more than just air.
Considered by many to be one of the few large-scale Artisans in Italy, fresh ingredients free of preservatives and artificial colors blended to organic milk at each shop daily, the UHT process eschewed in favor of IGP or DOP demarcation for many of the ingredients, entry to Emelia Cremeria puts patrons face-to-face with smiling servers and metal canisters sporting a wide variety of options, even more intrigue offered by a small run of baked goods plus Cakes and Semifreddo Parfaits in a pair of freezer cabinets.
Apparently the sort of place frequent to garner a queue, an elegant café setting with room to relax not exactly common amongst other Gelateria visited in Europe, it was after reading the store’s commitment to simple, raw materials and concepts of sustainability that two cones featuring five flavors was selected, a drizzle of pure chocolate added to each cone before quenelles are applied by spoons with a bit of swirling, the single White Chocolate and Gianduia silky smooth and as sweet as would be expected.
Intrigued to see how Millefoglie and Sicilian Almond with Pistachio Cream were presented, textural ingredients spooned into the jars just before being scooped onto cones, each flavor selected amongst four on a second Cone proved every bit on par with the best independent shops before or after it, a small glass cup chosen as a souvenir packed to the top with Vanilla Semifreddo and a puree of Raspberries between layers of Ganache and Sponge Cake.
Straciatella, Zabaglione, Pistachio on Chocolate Nut Waffle Cone
Straciatella, Mint, Fior di Latte
Not particularly “hungry” when exiting the Cathedrale di Parma, an old joke about “Ice Cream fills in the cracks” echoing somewhere in my brain, Gelateria K2 proved to be fortuitously located nearby on Strada Benedetto Cairoli, the artisan shop opened in 1954 embracing old-world methods of production with floral presentations provided atop house-made Cones .
Small in size with each flavor made daily and served from metal containers at prices ranging €2,50-€4,50 depending on number of scoops, it was with two Chocolate-dipped cones tallying just €9 that the quickly melting bouquets were taken outside for enjoyment, the pale-green Pistachio creamy, dense and not overly sweetened while Zabaglione, Fresh Cream and Straciatella were equally well crafted, Mint not particularly appealing to me in this situation, but well received by those who tried it.
Degustation di Tortelli – Swiss Chard, Black Truffle, Pumpkin
Potato Gnocchi – Ragout of Fassona, White Beans, Mushrooms, Carrots, Parmigiano Reggiano
Veal Breast – in the Tradition of Parma, Fried Potatoes, Stew of Peppers and Tomatoes
Peach Tart
Chocolate Budino with Zabaglione
Americano and Double Espresso on Ice
Opened in 1925 and situated in Hotel Daniel, a space well-adorned in art as Italian classics chime overhead, Ristorante Cocchi came highly recommended by well-traveled palates as one of the most notable places for regional classics in Parma, lunch on Wednesday fortuitously seeing a 12h00 reservation for one converted to a two-top.
A Michelin Guide rated space, though a touch too pricy for Bib Gourmand and not quite refined enough to nab a Star in the most recent guide, it was precisely on time that entry was made into the reception and attached bar area, a Tuxedoed man quickly offering greetings and confirming the reservation, his English almost accentless as specials were recited; several of them quite enticing, as was the menu itself.
Far more affordable than other restaurants of its ilk, particularly when accounting for the quality of ingredients and the service involved, it was while crunching on housemade Breadsticks that four-courses were requested, a nibble of 20 Month Parmigiano Reggiano offered gratis with a total cost of €87 for seven plates to follow.
Passing preparation times with quiet conversation, only three other tables occupied throughout the 100-minute stay, it was not long before a plate of cured pork from Antica Corte Pallavicina arrived with Torta Fritta, each luxurious bite a reminder of dinner one night prior while the Pumpkin Souffle offered a lesson in fluffiness that may well have floated off the plate were it not for the rich Cream accompanying it.
Producing every Pasta on the menu in-house, specials featuring Mushrooms at the peak of season, the decision to try plump Potato Gnocchi topped with Piedmontese Beef and a chunky sauce of Chanterelles plus White Beans, the trio of Tortelli offering a taste of complex fillings inside delicate wrappers with a dusting of Parmigiano atop Brown Butter.
Finding “Veal Breast – in the Tradition of Parma” quite different from Italian-American “Veal Parm,” the sliced breast stuffed with Bread Crumbs alongside fried Potatoes and a Stew of Peppers plus Tomatoes, dessert was presented tableside first as a slice of rustic Peach Pie atop an all-Butter crust that was robust and flaky, the Chocolate Budino a warm pile of baked Custard that necessitated Coffee to balance its sweetness, an accompaniment of Zabaglione unfortunately going too fast with a flavor that would have probably justified licking the plate clean.
Sugar Brioche, Rice Cake, Cassis Cornetto. Pan Dulce, Cream Horn, Baba au Rhum. Raspberry Sfogliatta, Cassis Puff Pastry
Spending a day in Parma before progressing onward to Milan it was with a late night past that the group filed into Pasticceria Torino at Strada Giuseppe Garibaldi 61, the small shop quiet despite the early hour of 08h30 as the shelves sat packed with nearly fifty styles of Cakes, Pastries and Bread.
One of the most affordable Pasticceria visited in Italy, the prices closer to those in Mirano than the aforementioned fashion capitol or Venice, it was with limited English that clerks provided service after extensive perusal of the options, a total of eight selections totaling just €10,80 plated and delivered to a small table.
In many ways similar to other bakeries, but also offering some novelties featuring housemade Fruit Compote, tastes of the Sugar Brioche as well as the laminated Butter Baton each proved mild yet pleasant in the face of more interesting options, the citrus-scented Rice Cake moist with Ricotta while the tender Baba found itself rich with Rum.
Baking the typical Cornetto more crispy than many, its smooth filling rife with Vanilla notes, even better bites were found amidst two laminated pastries packed with Black Currant Jelly, a rounded item labeled as “Sfogliatta” not dissimilar to a Kouign Amann in texture with a center of Raspberries.
A podium of culatello from “White Pig” aged over 18 and 27 months under the supervision of Slow Food and from “Black Pig” aged over 37 months, served with homemade mixed vegetables from the Court
Traditional Parma style “Tortelli” stuffed pasta with ricotta and spinach dressed with butter sauce from red cow
The green vegetables soup, beans from Aquila, cereals and Parmigiano Reggiano crusts
Frog legs with sweet garlic and parsley served on mashed potatoes with green sprouts
The “Germana” duck stuffed according to the tradition
Guinea Fowl cooked with culatello in the Po river’s clay served with vegetables from our garden
The local territorial cheese selection with Quince, Honey, House Jams and Confitures
Domori Chocolate “Sur de Lago” 72% and Parma’s Violet
Apple Tatin, almond ice-cream and chamomile
Lemon, bergamot e basil
Apricot, caramelized apple, thyme and ricotta
Brownie, Cream Puff, Raspberry Cream Pastry
Located in the Polesine Parmense region of Italy and most famously known as the aging site of Culatello for some of the world’s greatest kitchens and most prestigious names, Antica Corte Pallavicina is every bit as special an experience as restaurants more highly acclaimed by lists and guidebooks, the 16th century structure offering history with a hint of luxury and a passion for doing things the time-honored way.
Truly a triple-threat with the culinary stylings of Chef Massimo Spigaroli bolstered by an organic farm and boutique hotel, those traveling to Antica Corte Pallavicina will be thrilled to find the renovated resort far removed from the bustle of larger Italian cities such as nearby Parma and Milano, the banks of the Po River providing inspiration for several of the menu’s dishes while the surrounding lowlands offer a dramatic backdrop visible by East/West facing windows flanking both sides of the dining room.
Justifiably proud of its heritage, Peacockss strutting the courtyard joined by art featuring a variety of Swine, early arrivals to the resort are welcome to tour the grounds and the cellar where nearly 4,000 kilograms of pork are hung alongside several wheels of cheese and herbs in the process of drying, the names of Kings, Dukes and their Culinary equivalents pinned to several of the same selections that diners will soon be enticed to feast upon.
Eventually settling in the dining room, art on all sides with a roasting spit in the hearth and classical music playing above, it was after brief perusal of several styles of dining that Spigaroli’s signature tasting was selected, an a la carte addition to seven courses plus canapes and mignardises not just substantial in its portion, but served with great pacing that allowed for relaxed conversation and a truly jovial mood.
Taking advantage of a vast kitchen and the need to do everything on-site in order to provide for those booking a room dinner at Antica begins with a variety of Breads first served on silver rings then via jewel box, each plate crafted by a single artist whose three red dots serve as a signature, the soft Ciabatta proving irresistible with Butter from local dairy cows with housemade Ricotta soon arriving at the base of a Squash Blossom with vibrant Pesto and a delicate noodle of Parmigianino perched on top.
Serving a trio of cured Pork next, the progression of flavors beginning mellow and culminating with thin slices of Black Pig that melted slowly on each diner’s tongue with a nutty flavor left behind, a lone pasta course consisted of traditional Tortelli packed full of Ricotta and Spinach in Butter Sauce, the kitchen switching to fresh-pressed Olive Oil as the smooth base for intensely herbal Bean and Vegetable Soup.
Tucking tiny Frogs Legs into mounds of Mashed Potatoes with notes of Garlic riding high above the plate, “The Land, As it is, As it was” reached its savory conclusion by way of crispy Germana Duck next to snappy Vegetables plus a glaze of Modenese Balsamic, an addition of Clay-baked Guinea Fowl carved tableside faring even better beneath Culatello crisps and renderings from the pan.
Going all local with the cheeses, four tastes of Parmigiano Reggiano ranging from quite young up to 50-months impressive along with a funky Bleu from the Red Cow and several housemade condiments, the late hour unfortunately saw two desserts already sold out amongst the six available, the remainder offered and shared around the table with the Violet lacquered Chocolate Dome as well as a plate of poached Apricots with Apple Butter, Thyme Crumble and Ricotta Ice Cream proving a difficult choice for how best to finish.
Baccala, Tomato and Capers / Rabbit Liver Macaron / Parmigiano and the flavors of Pesto / Fried Fish from the Po River with Black Truffle Ice Cream
Focaccia and Olive Oil Grissini
Tribute to Normandy – Oyster and Lamb Tartare, Mint Jam, Green Apple Granita
Lentils are better than Caviar – Egg Yolk, Bunkwheat, Crème Fraiche
Riso Levante – Untoasted Rice, Perch, Citrus
Mediterranean Sole – Tomato, Anchovy, the Idea of Papillote
Autumn in New York – Fruits and Vegetables of the Season, broth of Prosciutto, Raisin and Tomato
Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano in different textures and temperatures
The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna
An Eel Swimming up the Po River
Traditional Modenese Miniature Tortellini in Capon Broth
At the dinner of Trimalchione: Fowl in the Ancient Roman Style, Russet Potatoes, Endive
Croccatino of Foie Gras – Noto Almonds and Piedmont Hazelnuts, Balsamic Vinegar from Modena
Caesar Salad in Bloom – Buffalo Milk Yogurt, Dehydrated Strawberries
Camouflage of Vignola
Oops! I dropped the Lemon Tart
Hazelnut, Black Truffle and Foie Gras Macaron / Camouflage – A Hare in the Woods / Liquid Center “Cherry”
Taking over a title of “The World’s Best Restaurant” on the 2016 San Pellegrino List it was with good fortune that a two-top had already been secured for lunch on September 6th before the announcement was made, this trip to Italy partially prompted by an interest in the marriage of modernity and tradition crafted by Massimo Bottura at his tiny restaurant in Modena, the 53-year-old Chef unfortunately out of country on the date of this meal, though it seems unlikely that this fact saw the experience offered any different than it may have been otherwise.
Named Osteria Francescana and undoubtedly having gained mainstream popularity by way of the Bottura’s inspired appearance on Season One of Netflix’s Chef’s Table, it was just as the clock approached 11h45 that a small queue began to form for the 28 diners fortunate enough to secure a seat for the noontime meal, an approximately three-hour event offered a la carte or by way of one of two tasting menus, the whole table unfortunately required to participate in the same choice unless dietary exclusions preclude something.
Featuring the familiar sort of personable yet professional service offered at similar restaurants, light music of various styles lofty amidst the high ceiling, it was in the second of two rooms that our duo was placed at a table large enough to seat a foursome, the €250 Degustazione offering eleven courses plus Breads, Canapes and Mignardises further enhanced by two a la carte additions plus a new Dessert that was offered to some tables, but not others, for unknown reasons.
Minimalist in its decoration, black and white photographs of birds joining brown curtains and grey walls, it was mere moments after placing the order that the afternoon launched into action, a kitchen of twenty-five or more sending plates out at a well-paced yet leisurely interval, a loaf of Ancient Grain Sourdough arriving hot with a robust crust and fluffy center quickly followed by a quartet of nibbles from which the Rabbit-Mousse Macaron and fried Fishcake with Black Truffle Ice Cream were both imaginative and compelling.
Sipping a refreshing €15 Mock-tail that seemed a bit ‘Nickel & Diming,’ as did a €10 Espresso to finish the meal, it was with Focaccia and weightless Grissini in hand that the menu officially got underway, “Tribute to Normandy” the first of many plates where looks would prove deceiving as a smooth Tartare of hand-chopped Lamb was served on the half-shell with Oyster Cream, Mint Jam, and ice-cold Apple Granita.
Seeing several Bottura classics joined by plates in-tune with the season, “Lentils are better than Caviar” turned tradition on its head with tender Legumes served atop Egg Yolk, Buckwheat Croutons and Beets while the “Riso Levante” unfortunately fell-short in terms of flavor, though the untoasted Rice offered an intriguing balance of creaminess and starch atop Perch Ceviche and a twist of Citrus.
Noticing a theme of plated colors just as subtle as the room in which it was served, Mediterranean Sole with Tomatoes, Anchovies and ”the Idea of Papillote” was amongst the most memorable dishes of the meal as a result of modernist ‘paper’ imparting a smoky finish and crunch to perfectly poached flesh, the more vibrant “Autumn in New York” a whimsical look at seasonal Produce bathed in clear broth of Prosciutto, Raisins and Tomatoes, though in reality the dish did not really offer much intrigue beyond its plating.
Progressing to two Osteria Francescana classics, the Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano truly a defining dish with a quintet of temperatures, textures and ages ranging from crisp to ethereal and frozen to warm, “The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna” was actually not entirely dissimilar in terms of the plate’s construction, a rich Bolognese at the base topped with a lightly charred curl of noodle that, although beautiful to look at, was not any more tasty than a wedge of the corner-piece from a pan that it looks to recreate.
Taking two a la carte items next, the €60 Tortellini bathed in a rich, oil-slicked both made from the carcass of Capon as delicate and delicious as the substantial portion is sharable, “An Eel Swimming up the Po River” was the third stunning dish following the Sole and “Five Ages,” each filet picked completely free of bones with a duo of sauces telling a story of Italy’s history, flavors of Saba and Amarone glazing the fish joining Green Apple and Polenta on one side with old local Balsamic on the other.
Continuing the dialogue on Italian History with a traditional Roman dish of several game birds deboned, stuffed inside one another and roasted tender, the richness continued with what can best be called an unfrozen popsicle of Duck Liver, the creamy torchon rolled in Almonds and Hazelnuts with a reduced glaze of Balsamic Vinegar from Modena.
Refreshing the palate with leaves of lettuce lightly topped in Yogurt and Berries before proceeding to proper desserts, “Oops! I dropped the Lemon Tart” was everything the Lasagna was in terms of eye-catching by way of its deconstruction without upgrading the concept from its traditional version, the Camouflage of Vignola a far more interesting dish that took Chocolate and Cherries as its inspiration and offered each as in a variety of forms spread thinly across the plate with everything from pudding-soft textures to Pop Rocks incorporated.
Using the mignardises to complete the experience Osteria Francescan offers three contrasting bites instructed to be eaten in order at the end of the meal, both the Macaron and traditional “Camouflage” outperforming other plates offered earlier in the experience, though perhaps with less significance to the story Bottura is trying to tell in 2016, one that is certainly worth paying attention to, but at times a little less eloquent than others and thus not the best one ever told.
The second of two breakfasts in Mirano, a landside location of Venice’s famous Pasticceria Tonolo not only larger but better stocked, it was just past 9h00 that the group entered to peruse shelves stretching back from the Coffee Bar and tables at the register, a half-dozen Pastries tallying just €6,60 with a few novel options particularly compelling.
Opened in 1870 and thrilling crowds every day but Monday by way of freshly baked goods and bracing shots of Espresso ever since, service at Tonolo is no different than other Pasticceria in the area, items selected at the counter and quickly delivered tableside in seconds with the bill to be settled afterward – first tastes of the Croissant di Miel showing the laminated horn to be far more flaky than the average Italian version with the honey more like a jam in texture than the sort traditionally viscous yet runny.
Acknowledging a large lunch and dinner to come, the fact that Pasticceria Belvedere just down the street had also just served up seven baked goods not to be forgotten, an airy Marshmallow dipped in Dark Chocolate proved a forgivingly light choice, as did the glazed Zabaglione Choux-pocket, the Bombolini quickly discarded due to a dry center devoid of filling while slices of Almond Ricotta Cake and Pine Nuts atop a Zabaglione base were hefty, yet tasty enough to justify testing one’s stomach capacity.
Making a brief visit to Mirano en route to lunch at the Number One Restaurant in the World, Pasticceria Belvedere was the first of two stops located on opposite ends of the same street at town center, the sizable venue with indoor as well as a al fresco seating proving to occasionally be on par with Pasticceria in larger cities with prices a veritable bargain in comparison to pretty much anywhere.
No doubt a locals-only sort of place, the selection considerable yet straight-forward with servers not particularly fluent in anything but Italian, it was with several folks sipping Espresso at the bar that pastries were perused and selected before taking a seat on the shaded outdoor patio, a total of seven items plus three coffees costing just €11,20 all inclusive for what was actually a substantial amount of carbohydrates, even divided by four.
At this point beginning to identify the items commonly offered throughout Italy, a Fruit Croissant and Custard Donut both proving a bit meager in filling compared to those seen before or after, it was the boozy Zabaglione Cannoli that finally showed Belvedere to be on good footing with other bakeries at it’s pricepoint, the shell not yet suffering any sog despite pre-filling with a similar compliment owed to a flaky Cannoncini di Crema.
Amused by a Jammy heart-shaped Linzer while Citrus-infused Ricotta imparted great texture to a slice of cake topped in Pine Nuts and Powdered Sugar, it was finally a thick roll of Figs, Nuts and Cocoa that saw fireworks sent skyward, the flavor expectedly sweet though sticky Rum glaze added a nose that was poignant yet not overwhelming in bringing bitter notes forward.
Housemade Crackers, Grissini, Focaccia and Wheat Bread
San Marzano Gazpacho – Ricotta di Bufala, Croutons, Julienne Vegetables and Rosemary
Guinea Hen Ravioli with Pumpkin, Mushrooms and Black Truffle
Caciucco Fish Soup with different types of Pasta and Green Lemon
Tubetti in a Stock of “Go” and Aromatic Herbs
Black Spaghetti with Sea Urchins, Candied and Sweet Peppers
Fillet of Suckling Pig with Puree of Beans and Raspberry Sauce
Pigeon in two firings, Raviolo with its Offal, Red Fruits and Foie Gras
Cheese Board with Candied Tomatoes
Tomato and Summer Vegetable Soup with Thyme Ice Cream and Aromatic Herbs
Mille Feuille with Mascarpone Cream and Apricot
Honey and Chili Pepper Ice Cream with Marsala Water Ice, Pistachios, Curry Cake and Fig Sauce
Raspberry Lemon Tartlette, Grape White Chocolate Ice Cream, Mint Pineapples
The first of several Michelin-Starred restaurants visited in Italy, Il Ridotto at Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo is as unassuming as it can be in an area where bars, trattoria and cafés abound, the two-roomed twenty-six seater toqued by Gianni Bonaccorsi offering an intimate dining experience complete with luxe-linens, silver and delicate Murano drinking glasses plus a congenial multi-lingual staff.
Undoubtedly reservations only despite doubling its size over the past five years, it was just past 19h00 that a party of two was led to a sizable square table located in a room decorated in brick, beige and liquor bottles accented by recessed lighting, the music noteworthy for being well-utilized to soften the sounds of a tight kitchen and other diners without being so loud as to give diners a cause to shout.
Featuring a five-course tasting or a la carte options, the latter better for sampling a diversity of plates when dining as a duo or more, it was with several-styles of housemade Bread and Olive Oil that the meal got started, a Gazpacho of San Marzano Tomatoes offered as an introductory gift from the kitchen offering a good idea of the bold flavors to follow as golden croutons complimented Ricotta that was creamy and soft.
Opting to focus on pastas and reinterpreted Venetian classics as opposed to simple antipasti such as salads, the meal got underway quickly with Caciucco in a smooth Fish broth imbued with Herbs and acid bathing mixed Noodles, the richness of a second plate featuring Pumpkin Ravioli topped in confit Guinea Hen and Mushrooms plus shaved Black Truffle a beautiful composition that stands out as one of the highlight plates from Venice.
Finding the flavor of Tubetti in a Stock of “Go” not far off from the Fish Soup, and thus disappointing in its redundancy, “Black Spaghetti with Sea Urchins, Candied and Sweet Peppers” was a bit of an oversell as the Uni was almost rendered mute when rendered into a sauce the consistency of Egg-yolk, the tilt towards sweetness also a bit unexpected though ultimately more in-place when looking at the constituents of following plates.
Not afraid to use fruits in unique ways, a look at the meals of others from years past showing Berries frequently set next to rich Meats, both the crispy-skinned Suckling Pig with vibrant red sauce as well as the whole Pigeon with a funky Ravioli, seared Duck Liver and Raspberries were as colorfully plated as they were interesting, the thick pan-reduction actually more memorable than the Pork itself while the Pigeon was a picture-perfect roast of bronzed skin and a center served essentially raw.
Looking at desserts and deciding that nothing short of three would suffice, course four presented several well-aged Cheeses with confit Tomatoes alongside a sweet Summer Vegetable Soup with Thyme Ice Cream lofty aromatics, the follow-up of an Apricot and Mascarpone Mille-Feuille plus Chili Pepper Ice Cream with the flavors of Marsala, Curry and Pistachios lightly sweetened by Figs and Honey both as complex and well-crafted as they were delicious.
Thin Slice with Pepperoni, Mozzarella, Tomato Sauce
Thick Slice with Tomatoes, Mozzarella, Ricotta, Broccolini
One of the restaurants most frequented by tourists in all of Venice, Antico Forno is essentially a New York Slice-shop in the center of an ancient Italian City surrounded by water and other more interesting things to eat, the prices significantly higher than those in The Big Apple perhaps justified by better ingredients including all-natural Mozzarella and Ricotta, plus fresh Vegetables and a sauce that is natural as opposed to sugary.
Called by many a “hole in the wall,” though considering the city of its location that definition can be applied to most establishments across the board, Antico Forno is located at Ruga Ravano in tight quarters, the signage not easily identified despite being painted over the entrance, though one can likely identify the location thanks to a counter lined with pies and a queue running from 11h30 opening until 21h30 at night.
Offering two styles of Pie, the high volume seeing a kitchen visible through a narrow window constantly forming, topping or baking dough, quick perusal will show both thin slices atop a lightly tanned crust not dissimilar from the electric oven iterations found throughout North America, the Focaccia based wedges sold for €4 weighing in as almost as a meal replacement, the lack of leavening or prolonged baking making the texture more akin to a Grandma-slice than the Sicilian-style with more depth of flavor and crunch.
Taking in the scene for a moment, busy but efficient with a single multi-lingual clerk re-warming slices in a windowside oven, taking cash and also serving drinks, it just as a fresh Pepperoni Pizza emerged from the kitchen that a slice was served via paper napkin, the spicy Pepperoni’s grease less plentiful than most but still present as a streak left on the countertop while a vegetarian-friendly piece of Focaccia was quickly warmed, though not quite enough to be considered “re-heated,” the result lighter than some might expect, but still plenty for most as a low-priced lunch.
An unassuming slot with an odd name in the North-Central part of Venice where tourists rarely flock, one may pass right by Gelateria Alaska assuming it was yet another place for creamy, frozen confections were it not for a slow-growing word-of-mouth amidst the Gastronomic circle that the space and its owner were one of the few places still executing the craft without the assistance of modern machinery, the flavors simple and boldly flavored amidst a creamy, airless base.
Truly a rare space in that the owner goes so far as to hide Gelato Artigianale credentials behind a commercial rainbow cone, entry to Alaska finds a total of only twelve flavors available daily, the owner a well-traveled elderly gentleman fluent in several languages who seems happy to discuss his approach.
Offered tastes of Cinnamon, Pear and Chocolate, the former intense to the point that those opting for it would be best served to mix it with another flavor, it was untasted that the decision was made to order a 3-ball cone for €4, cash-only, the Pistachio as pure as the fresh roasted nuts themselves while the Straciatella and Gianduia Bianco were each beautifully blended, the former riddled in Dark Chocolate while the later had just a touch of grit from the addition of ground Hazelnuts.
Attempted as a replacement Michelin 1* MET the night prior, Sunday unfortunately finding the former’s menu dull and the later restaurant dark, it was instead for Monday afternoon lunch that a walk-in visit was made to Ristorante Ribot, a 12h00 arrival making me the only patron present on the shaded garden patio – actually the only *person* as the English-friendly hostess tended to cleaning inside the restaurant with the waitstaff yet to show.
Located canal-side on Santa Croce 158/160, a large space extending through the floral and wood-clad dining room to a white-tableclothed area guarded from the sun by umbrellas and a canopy of leaves, it was with slightly-too-loud 50’s classics playing that seating was taken on flimsy patio furniture softened by fabric cushions, a nearly fifteen minute wait before bread, water or menu was presented, the lone-server bristling a bit when called on his error but eventually settling in and providing good service to myself as well as three couples who arrived over the course of a 75-minute stay.
Purporting a prix-fixe and two menus via its Website, but apparently offering only a la carte choices from Venetian Classics on this day, it was perhaps fortuitous that my interests resided entirely in the old-world staples commonly found throughout the island city’s history, a warm basket of dry bread neither worth the calories nor the stomach space beyond a single end-piece, the kitchen thankfully more expedient than the front-of-house as three creamy clouds of Salt Cod were presented slicked in Olive Oil and ground Pepper, the Polenta perhaps a bit rushed and thus slightly watery but improved in a later round.
Hand-crafting a half-dozen Pastas in house daily, the small Potato Dumplings not as meltingly soft as others found around Italy, the Pork and Veal Ragout nonetheless came across rich and meaty with just a touch of spice lingering at the end, an entrée portion of cephalopods slowly stewed in their Ink with Saffron and Olive Oil given an acidic slant by way of grated Lemon Peel with Polenta here better in achieving the effect of a rustic, hearty plate.
Crafting Panna Cotta, Molten Chocolate Cake and Tiramisu in-house, the latter served like an Espresso-infused Parfait with Mascarpone stick-a-spoon-up-straight thick, it was with a relatively high tally of €62 that the bill was settled for a meal that was good yet not any better than the cuisine available at Street-food purveyors or Rosticceria Gislon for pennies on the dollar, though the jet-black Squid is the sort of dish one would be challenged to find on a menu elsewhere, let alone back home in The United States.
Sant Udalbo – Hazelnuts, Almonds, Ginger, Apple, Marzipan
Pan Dei Vini – Almonds, Figs, Powdered Sugar
Bombolini Crema
Almond Pine Nut Tart
Dark Chocolate and Butter Pastry
Almond Spongecake, Apricot Marmalade, Pistachio Glaze and Candied Fruits
Opting to drive to Venice on Day Two, €28 parking a bit steep, yet not substantially different when divided by four from the cost of a day of parking in Mestre and trains both ways, it was a quick walk that brought the group to Pasticceria Dal Mas on Rio Tera Lista di Spagna, a 9h00 opening finding the place busy with locals plus a handful of tourists, the slightly higher-than-average prices well justified by beautiful Cookies, Cakes and Confections including some not otherwise seen during the subsequent six days in Italy.
Larger in floorplan than the likes of Rizzardini or Tonolo, options available in the cases easily doubling the variety of both, it was to English-friendly clerks that questions regarding items were directed, each of them answered patiently with more than a dozen items catching my fancy, an eventual order of six selected at a cost of €22,50 that at first seemed excessive but eventually proved to be worth every cent and calorie.
Specializing in small Cakes and traditional Tarts comprised of ancient Grains, Nuts and Fruit that make each complex and heterogeneous from bite to bite, first tastes of a simpler Bombolini showed soft bread similar to Brioche surrounding a smooth center of creamy Custard, the black-and-bronze braid tasted next not-so-different from a Pain Au Chocolate in terms of the flavor or lamination, though the choice to directly infuse half of the batter with Cocoa was an inspired one that still saw the flavor balanced as opposed to overly sweet.
Pleasantly surprised by the Almond and Pine Nut Tart that was dry and crumbly like Biscotti, but at the same time delicious and well composed, later tastes offered a trio that would not be trumped by any Pasticceria from Venice to Modena, Parma and Milan, the powdered Pan Dei Vini undoubtedly sweet due to the Figs and Confectioner’s Sugar, as too was the Almond Spongecake with Fruit and Pistachio Glaze while the Sant Udalbo will vie for 2016’s “Best Sweets” list with a combination of Hazelnuts, Almonds, Ginger, Apple, and a stretchy layer of Marzipan that upped the impact of every other ingredient by way of both texture and taste.
Nocella – Mozzarella, Brie, Walnut Pesto, Smoked Ham
Deciding to pass on Michelin-starred MET based on a choiceless $160 menu that lacked anything of substantial interest, it was after a long walk finding several restaurants closed on Sunday that the decision was made to take the train back to Mestre, seating at Ristorante da Flavio e Fabrizio refused despite an obvious abundance of tables eventually leading to dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria Aladino on Viale S. Marco, the results more-or-less a disaster from the décor and loud music to the inedibly stale table bread as well as many of the actual plates.
Owned by a gregarious gentleman whose fluency in English was an unexpected treat considering a location well-outside the traditional tourist zone, entrance to Ristorante Pizzeria Aladino brings patrons face-to-face with a true hodgepodge of Italian and Middle Eastern influences, the offering of Kabobs fused with Pizza just one of a handful of confusing elements, though the pies with French Fries and Frankfurters may have been an even more perplexing choice.
Arriving at 21h15, the restaurant mostly empty and staff seen regularly taking cigarette breaks that saw water go unfilled and long delays between courses one and two, bread was immediately set aside after just one lifeless endpiece, the Fritto Misto not just undercooked but downright oily with a texture that makes one think the Calamari rings arrived straight from a freezer bag.
Modestly impressed by a plate of creamy Seafood Risotto offered per-portion to parties of two or more, it was with two nearly-New York-style Pizzas that the experience at Aladino met its conclusion, the Rosemary, Sausage and Saffron version finding the spices too liberally applied to be enjoyable while soft chunks of Brie were pleasant atop Walnut Pesto with chunks of Ham and Mozzarella, the crust falling far short of the high standard set one night prior and actually sort of disappointing compared to North American chains like Domino’s or Pizza Hut.
Hazelnut / Stracciatella / Pure Pistacchio / Biscotto
Going one step further than even the best of its competitors by making everything including fresh cream on-site daily, La Mela Verde at Castello 4977 embraces Slow Food ethics with a focus on seasonally inspired fruit choices alongside all the classic flavors found at Geaterias throughout Venice, the space itself almost claustrophobic in its closeness with a tall freezer-case offering the day’s 16 varieties served in cubs, bowls, cones and freshly made crepes.
Staffed by just one young woman, another similarly aged person barely visible at the back of the shop where many modern machines reside, it was just prior to 17h00 that our group of four entered the artisan shop beneath the sounds of overhead pop music, a few samples of flavors including Peach and the Cinnamon-soaked Byblos showing the base to be perhaps the most creamy in the Floating City with flavors that are quite intense.
Eventually opting for another foursome, €1 added to the €4,50 cost by putting it on a housemade cone that was supporting but malleable to the tooth, one would have to think long and hard to recall a more natural Pistachio than the grey-green paline, a fact no less true when considering the toasty taste of Hazelnut while veins of crunchy Chocolate coursed through Fior di Latte in Stracciatella and crumbles freckled the Biscotto’s Anise-scented Almond Cookie base.
