db Brasserie, Las Vegas NV

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db brasserie

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db’s knees – Martin Miller’s Gin, Lemon Juice, Local Desert Honey

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Pork, Chicken, Mustard, Cornichons, Country Bread / Foie Gras, Smoked Duck, Rillettes, Rhubarb, Turnips, Pistachio, Frisee

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Parmesan Focaccia, Baguette, Butter

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Escargots Spatzle – Burgundy Snails, Chicken Oysters, Mushrooms, Garlic Parsley Coulis, Hazelnuts

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Sea Scallops – Sweet Corn, Trumpet Mushrooms, Jalapeno, Confit Tomato, Basil

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Tunisian Spiced Lamb – Roasted Chop, Merguez Sausage, Couscous, Lemon Braised Spinach, Chickpeas, Red Pepper Tagine

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Crispy Duck Confit – Swiss Chard, Turnip, Trumpet Royale Mushrooms, Onion Rings

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Pierre Robert Triple Crème, Humbolt Fog, Petit Basque, Penn Noble, Forme d’Ambert with Quince Preserves, Nuts and Cranberry Bread

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Black and White Fondant – Molten Chocolate Cake, Verbena Ice Cream

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Raspberry Clafoutis – Rhubarb gelée, ginger yogurt sorbet

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Gateau Basque – Custard Cake, Brandied Cherries, Vanilla Anglaise

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Le President – Chocolate-Hazelnut Mousse Tart, Coffee Chantilly

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Freshly Baked Madeleines

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Espresso

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Having visited every Daniel Boulud property in New York City, from the eponymous 3* dining room and its original 1* Café home to breakfast and brunch at Bistro Moderne and Sud, respectively, it was with great delight that I learned of the chef’s return to Sin City – a new Brasserie helmed by former Marche Bacchus chef David Middleton scheduled for dinner with two friends, a tasting menu presumably pre-arranged by private dining manager Heidi Voskuil. Every bit the bustling space suggested by its name, with close set tables and traditional heavy woods beneath the sexy glow of globed lighting, it was just after 6:30pm on Saturday when our party was seated and starting off with a stunning riff on the Bee’s Knees our menu was confirmed…at least conceptually…though much of what followed was not exactly what was requested and much of it was marred by still-green service. Setting aside small mistakes on sourcing and pronunciation as well as beverages spilled more than once plus an obvious miscommunication from front of house to back about the menu requested it was with a duo of Boulud’s superlative terrines that we began and with the foie gras smooth as silk while the chicken and pork pate upped the ante with an earthy funk one can only hope for this program to expands; a “Bar Boulud” charcuterie program like that in Manhattan’s theater district seemingly a perfect choice on The Strip. Moving next to outsourced bread and salty butter before progressing into the one-two punch of garlicky snails followed by the best scallops I’ve had in recent memory as the restaurant filled to perhaps 80% capacity it was in our fourth course that things got interesting; the lightly seared lamb and its spicy sausage tender and delicious but served as our “main course” when my request had clearly delineated the duck as a ‘must.’ Eventually served the confit after much hemming-and-hawing including the involvement of the Dining Room Manager suffice it to say that the crispy-skinned fowl is absolutely worth visiting (and perhaps fighting) for and finishing the evening with a glut of sweets plus a quintet of award-winning cheeses one can only hope the service will soon keep up with the kitchen…not only does Chef Middleton’s cuisine warrant it, but so does the textbook Gateau Basque.

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THREE STARS: Well priced by Strip standards but still finding its footing as it relates to service db Brasserie presents as a relaxed challenger to Thomas Keller’s Bouchon just a few stories above and with David Middleton helming a kitchen already executing at a very high level it will be interesting to see how this iteration of Boulud’s vision evolves over time, the menu currently a veritable ‘greatest hits’ collection of concepts featured throughout his New York locales.

RECOMMENDED: Pates and Terrines, Game Meats, Desserts.

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AVOID: Madelines were over-baked and spatzle was over-boiled, breads are outsourced (though our server neglected to tell us by whom despite two inquiries.)

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TIP: At least for now the tasting menu option does not offer any cost savings to parties greater than two. At $95 per person for five courses our party could have ordered 1-2 more items and shared family-style at less cost. A better option, at least for those willing to live within its constraints, would be the three-course prix-fixe offered for $38 at lunch and $48 at dinner.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://www.dbbrasserie.com/

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Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, db Brasserie, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Madeline, Nevada, Pork, Tasting Menu

Mad Hatter Cupcakes, Las Vegas NV

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Mad Hatter Cupcakes

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Mad About Vanilla – Vanilla Cake, Vanilla Filling, Vanilla Frosting

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Snickerdoodle – Cinnamon and Vanilla Cake, Vanilla Frosting, Cinnamon Sugar

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Wascally Wabbit – Carrot Cake, Orange Filling, Cream Cheese Frosting

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Classic Red Velvet – Red Velvet Cake, Vanilla Filling, Cream Cheese Frosting

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Located on Grand Canyon Parkway though not particularly easy to spot from the street it was the good word of mouth from a trusted source that led me to Page Pszanowski’s Mad Hatter Cupcakes and putting a made-to-order spin on the tried-and-true trend the results were nearly as smile inducing as the cutesy décor. Small and narrow with a few seats stashed beneath the Wonderland inspired theme a visit to Mad Hatter begins with greetings from the smiling staff and with several cakes, fillings, frostings, and toppings from which to build the options expand by exponentials; each sizable cake dressed while you wait for a mere $3 with discounts for orders of a half-dozen or more. Opting to stick with “Mad About Favorite Flavors” rather than getting too creative it was to a quartet of cakes that my order led and beginning with the most simple of options I was immediately impressed as natural aromatics flooded the palate first from smooth vanilla and then with poignant cinnamon, both beneath soft buttercream and a decorative cookie. Moving next to a duo of favorites it was unfortunately in the carrot cake that the bakers would stumble as a citrus center did nothing for the underspiced cake but with thick cream cheese frosting applied liberally as a saving grace the tasting quickly recovered with rich red velvet, the ample cocoa notes finding a suitable foil in vanilla top notes and a tangy finish all the better alongside a cup of good coffee.

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THREE AND A HALF STARS: Presenting a creative approach to a ‘tried’ trend Mad Hatter offers a bit of whimsy and plenty of personalization to those so inclined. Clearly excelling in the basics while falling a bit flat in the carrot cake I’d be intrigued to taste the banana or coffee options to see if they trend more natural than the decidedly artificial orange but for those looking for a classic the Red Velvet and Vanilla here are bigger and $1 cheaper than those at Sprinkles without the hassles of The Strip.

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RECOMMENDED: Classic flavors shine and both buttercream and cream cheese are reference standard.

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AVOID: Carrot Cake was too light, both in texture and in spicing.

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TIP: Open at ten o’clock seven-days a week and baking fresh throughout the day those interested in something smaller or larger such as mini-cupcakes or more ornate event-cakes should call in advance as a wide variety of styles and prices are available.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://www.madaboutcupcakes.com/

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Posted in cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Mad Hatter, Mad Hatter Cupcakes, Nevada

Wicked Spoon, Las Vegas NV

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Wicked Spoon

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Pain au Chocolat / Passion Fruit Baba au Rhum / Apple Turnover / Strawberry Danish / Apple Cobbler / Chocolate Donut / Dulce de Leche Cheesecake

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Pineapple Carrot Rum Cake

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Nutella Danish

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Smoked Trout Mousse, Goat Cheese, Cream Cheese, Chive Cone / Quince Paste / Dates / Fruit and Fig Cake / 4-month Gorgonzola / Triple Cream Brie / Soprasetta / Genoa Salami

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Banana Pecan Pancake / Cinnamon Pullman French Toast / Cream Chantilly, Pure Maple Syrup

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Blue Crab Fried Rice with XO, Basil, Green Curry / Spicy Salmon Roll / California Roll / Tempura Roll / Five Spice Pork Belly with Hoisin Sauce / Teriyaki Chicken Thigh / Yakitsoba with Stir Fried Chicken and AO Nori

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Congee, Chinese Sausage, Green Onion, Crispy Shallots, Chinese Donuts

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Angry Mac n’ Cheese / Wicked Fried Chicken / Squid Ink Spaghetti, Fresno Chilis, Chives, Bottarga / Slab Bacon

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Grilled Wheat Cake with Shrimp Ebi Yaki / 5-Spice Duck Wing over Rice

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Red and Yellow Beets, Truffle Oil, Arugula, Minus 8 Vinegar / Sweet Polenta, Roasted Pears, Mascarpone / Goat Cheese Lavender Panna Cotta / Sticky Buns with Caramel Sauce

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Chocolate Chip Cookie / Peanut Butter Cookie / Oatmeal Raisin Cookie / Chocolate Coffee Rice Crispy Treat / Tart au Citron / Salted Peanut Caramel Gelato / White Chocolate Coffee Gelato

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Gluten Free Red Velvet Cupcake/ Molten Chocolate Cake

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Bacon, Egg, Cheese Panini / Pea Risotto with Blistered Cherry Tomatoes / Chicken Apple Sausage / Carne Pizza – Salami, Mortadella, Coppicolla, Buttermilk Blue Cheese / Wicked Pizza – Fingerling Potato, Bacon, Goat Cheese, Sundried Tomato, Onion

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Brisket Benedict

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Apple Donut / Cherry Danish / Banana Nut Muffin / Caramel Candy Bar Gelato / Pistachio Gelato

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Strawberry Balsamic Gelato / Nutella Gelato / White Chocolate and Apricot Mousse Cone / Exotic Berry Cream Puff / Oreo Coated Strawberry / Heath Bar Strawberry

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Coffee Torte / Chocolate Bundt Cake with Raspberry Sauce

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Chocolate Pistachio Mousse Cake

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Cinnamon Pullman French Toast, Maple Syrup, Cream Chantilly, Dates, House Granola

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Having not attended a proper Vegas ‘buffet’ since September of 2007 it was actually an inquiry from a blog-reader regarding my recommendations for an upcoming trip that led me to ‘discover’ The Cosmopolitan’s Wicked Spoon, a brief e-mail to the hotel’s concierge landing me access to the VIP line plus an eye-opening tour of the facilities by the culinary team. Located in the West Tower with ornate chandeliers, ample glass, and plenty of shine it would be easy to say that Wicked Spoon is the ‘nicest’ buffet in which I have dined but with expansive size as well as selection – over 150 items offered at $38 for brunch – it would be equally fair to suggest the immaculately clean space also represents one of The Strip’s biggest “bangs for the buck” as a team of chefs spread across several open kitchens work diligently replenishing each station with ornate small plates at a speed that would put all but the most seasoned short-order cook to shame. Expeditious and friendly in service with purified water on the table and good coffee refilled nearly every time a plate was cleared it was with a focus on variety that I explored the various stations of Wicked Spoon and although not every dish was a success I’d say 85% of the sixty-six items I sampled were at least good while a few far exceeded expectations. Starting sweet then veering savory and subsequently switching back-and-forth as new plates emerged from the kitchen items such as the fresh fruit pastries immediately showed the strength of the pastry department and while chocolate options proved a touch heavy handed the gelato selection was stunning, the ‘white chocolate coffee’ and pistachio both on par with Art of Flavors in terms of texture and nuance. Moving past disappointing Italian and Asian fare aside from swoon-inducing sweet polenta, well accompanied congee, and caramelized pork belly as well as duck it was on to more brunch-oriented offerings that I turned and while both the benedict and slab bacon shined the macaroni and chicken were merely decent – clever titles aside. Largely skipping salads aside from the impressive beets but impressed by fruits, cheese, cereals, and charcuterie it was finally at the three-hour mark that I’d finally filled up and having already once sampled the delightful custard soaked Pullman it was to creativity I turned; two slices of the buttery cinnamon bread buried beneath a mountain of house-whipped Chantilly cream, Maple Syrup, Dates, and Granola far outperforming any ‘designer’ French Toast you’d pay $15 for elsewhere in the city.

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FOUR STARS: Unable to compare Wicked Spoon to other Vegas buffets given my relative inexperience with the genre I can only say I was stunned by not only the quality of the food but the passion behind the project. In a world of “China Buffets” and Golden Corral’s where neither presentation nor preparation seems to matter, let alone freshness or sourcing, Wicked Spoon chooses to function like a proper small-plates restaurant with sparkling cleanliness to compliment a trained Chef’s vision.

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RECOMMENDED: Grilled and Seared Proteins, Fruit Based Baked Goods, Polenta, French Toast, Cookies, Gelato. An eye on the preparation stations for what is coming out fresh is highly advised.

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AVOID: Pizza, Pasta, Sushi, Drinking too much and looking foolish like the folks at the table next to me.

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TIP: Early arrival or making reservations is highly recommended as the line trumped an hour by 10am. Fans of good music will be well advised to pay attention to the soundtrack – Radiohead and Pink Floyd playing prominently throughout the meal.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com/taste/restaurant-collection/wicked-spoon.aspx

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Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pizza, Pork, Truffle, Wicked Spoon

Twist by Pierre Gagnaire [4,] Las Vegas NV

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Twist by Pierre Gagnaire

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Kumquat Meringue Tartlet with Goat Cheese and Short Bread Cookie / Smoked Sable with Chervil and Apple / Carrot Sesame Mousse / Parmesan and Sea Salt Biscuit/ Red Beet Gelee with Hazelnut Crumble / Souffle of Comte Cheese, Lavosh

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Baguette, Brioche, Bacon Cheddar, Sauterne Pumpernickel, Cherry Walnut – Isigny Salted, Echire Unsalted

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Chanterelle Soup – Coffee Morel Ravioli, Peppered Shrimp, Langoustines, English Peas

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Spring – Chanterelle Soup with Parmesan, English Peas, Spring Onion, Swiss Chard / Stuffed Rabbit Saddle, Fresh Herb Jus, Black Olive, Baby Artichoke and Nougatine / Asparagus Custard with Chervil and Mozzarella Ice Cream / Tomato Tart with Basil and Spinach

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Foie Gras Terrine – Charred Onion Gelee, Passion Fruit Pulp, Artichoke Cream, Spinach, Crispy Toast, Semillon Vinegar

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Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Ringo Starr (Milk Chocolate, Gold, Chantilly of Foie, Terrine of Foie, Smoked Pepper Puree) / Foie Gras Ice Cream with White Port, Charred onion Gelee, Passion Fruit Syrup, Baby Turnip, Watermelon Radish / Apple and Shallot Marmalade with Cinnamon, Sliced Duck, Cassis Tuille, Red Beet

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Grilled Beef with Fresh Herb Butter – Eggplant Slice, English Mint Pea Puree, Chorizo, Tomme de Savoie/ Bone Marrow Croquette with Ramp and Potato Crisp / Bordelaise Sauce

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Maine Lobster – Lobster Fricasse Turner, Chantilly Lace / Green Apple, Cucumber Gel, Lobster Rillette / Jasmine and Basmati Rice with Lobster Bisque

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Seasonal Mushrooms

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Pont Neuf Potatoes with Iberco de Bellota

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Zwart Kaas (5 year aged Sheep’s milk Gouda, Netherlands) / Gres de Champenois (Cow’s milk Double Crème, Champagne) / Cana de Oveja (Soft-Ripened Sheep’s milk log, Murcia) / Carboncino (Charcoal ash crusted Blend, Piedmont) / St. Agur Bleu (60 day Cow’s milk Double Crème, Auvergne) / Gorgonzola Pear Ice Cream, Dark Chocolate Trail Mix, Kirsch Cherry Marmalade

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Praline Éclair – Vanilla Pastry Cream, Coffee and Cognac, Pear and Caramelized Almond with Hazelnut / Black Sesame Ice Cream, Sliced Apricot, Hazelnut Crumble

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Calvados and Caramel Parfait with Milk Chocolate Coated Apple and Kumquat Compote / Nashi Pear Wedge with Apricot and Peach Compote

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Grand Dessert – Raspberry Sable with Basil, Mascarpone Coulis, Parfait Glace / Pistachio Biscuit Moelleux & Green Tea Ice Cream, Sweet Wine Cubes / Black Chocolate Ganache, Milk Caramel Ball, Bailey’s and Coffee Granite / Cherry Soup, Prune Cream, Cassis Sorbet, Meringue Sticks / Peach and Apricot Compote with Rosemary, Pistachio Sugar Leaf, Orange Almond Cream

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Lime Tart, Chocolate Vanilla Truffle, Apricot Marshmallow

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Suffice it to say that I’m a known entity at Twist and with my predilections to Chef Ryuki’s interpretation of Pierre Gagnaire’s cuisine well known a meal on Saturday night would prove just as thrilling as those prior, a showering of plates with mostly stellar service lasting over four hours in the butterfly adorned Spring dining room. With Gagnaire himself present in the kitchen – as well as the dining room, bar, and even lobby – tending to details both small and large it was to an array of innovative canapés plus a quintet of breads with butters from Isigny and Echire that we began and moving next through six courses of meticulous sourcing and style rare would be a lull, a full emersion in the kitchen’s stream of consciousness with a leisurely flowing pace. Opting for one tasting and courses a la carte to match ‘Spring’ began with flavors smacking of the season and although mushrooms both here and later were slightly over-seasoned everything else showed fresh and vibrant, a concept that carried right along to the course that followed – a flood of foie gras comprising seared, salad, torchon, terrine, and even ice cream. Transitioning to ‘surf n’ turf’ in an eight plate third course of butter poached lobster juxtaposing aggressively peppered beef before progressing to five cheeses novel to even the experienced it was at last in two separate courses that sweets arrived and with Gagnaire himself overseeing the pastry preparation that evening every item arrived with a flourish; a garnish here or an extra plate there to cap another stunning meal.

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FOUR AND A HALF STARS: More crowded than I’ve ever seen the space, nearly every table occupied up until 10:00pm, the food at Twist remains the most innovative in Sin City and although a touch heavy with the salt shaker on two variations of mushrooms while ice creams thrice arrived already melting it would be nearly impossible to find fault in anything else served, a true rarity given the complexity of both plate and presentation.

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RECOMMENDED: Anything done with foie gras, game meat, or pastry.

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AVOID: More ‘basic’ presentations such as the mushrooms or steak – there are plenty of other spots on the strip for that.

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TIP: While ordering prix-fixe or tasting is certainly more cost conscious the true beauty of Gagnaire’s cuisine is found a la carte, the mix and match satellite platings playing on concepts of texture and flavor discrepancy in a way few chefs dare.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://www.mandarinoriental.com/lasvegas/fine-dining/twist-by-pierre-gagnaire/
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Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Nevada, Pork, Tasting Menu, Twist by Pierre Gagnaire

The Cookie Bar, Las Vegas NV

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The Cookie Bar

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Buzzkill – Chocolate Chip Cookies with Dark, Semi-Sweet, and Milk Chocolate Chips

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PB Kitchen Sink – Chocolate Chip Cookie Base, Peanut Butter Cup Middle, Topped with Chocolate Brownie

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Whiskey-Doodle – Fireball Whiskey Snicker Doodle topped with Whiskey Buttercream

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Drunk Pumpkin Punch – Pumpkin Walnut Cookies, Rum Cream Cheese Filling, Rolled in Chopped Walnuts

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Black Irish – Guinness Stout Infused Dark Chocolate Brownie finished with Irish Cream Topping

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Not a drinker save for the occasional cocktail or rare glass of wine with dinner yet thoroughly intrigued by the crowd-funded mother/daughter project entitled “The Cookie Bar” it was the smiling face of owner Wendy Baumgartner that welcomed me to the small Cannery West kiosk, but it was her infectious passion for the project that truly won me over. Opened early this year after a trekking the catering and festival scenes the concept of The Cookie Bar admittedly seems a bit kitsch up front but with boozed-up riffs on classic American confections befitting the moniker of Sin City lining the shelves and comparatively low prices by 702 standards it can only be said that “bar food” jokes aside these ladies can really bake. Featuring intoxicating flavors both alcohol-infused and virgin it was with a duo of tender triple-chocolate ‘Buzzkill’ cookies that I began and with soft centers amidst crisp edges the classics tasted oven fresh, a characteristic no less notable in the red-hot cinnamon snickerdoodle, both individually bagged options a mere $3 and just as delicious as upcharged versions found on-strip. Moving next to a similarly priced beer-brownie punched up with a tablespoon each of Guinness and Bailey’s before transitioning to the actual ‘Punch’ of the densely spiced and cakelike Drunk Pumpkin it was last that I turned to a veritable ‘best of both worlds’ in The Kitchen Sink, a 6oz block of flavor with textures harkening fudge while flavors hollered Reese’s – an Oreo version also available and beckoning me back along with the Vodka kissed Krispies and signature Booze Munch.

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FOUR STARS: As homegrown (or perhaps homebrewed) as it gets and truly living the new Artisan-American Dream popularized by cities like Portland and Brooklyn the Baumgartner’s Cookie Bar should be on any the short list for anyone with a sweet-tooth and all the more so for those looking to “go-local.”

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RECOMMENDED: Everything I ordered was excellent, but if forced to choose I’d order the Pumpkin Punch and Kitchen Sink over the rest, the former every bit as good as the Carrot Cake cookie at Bouchon and the later pure bliss – particularly warmed and gooey.

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AVOID: The Buzzkill was a bit pedestrian compared to the rest, but even then it was still a really good Chocolate Chip Cookie.

TIP: Yelp! Check-Ins score a free bag of Buzzkills, but if you ask nicely Wendy will give you any $3 cookie on the house for stopping by and telling your friends.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

www.thecookiebarlv.com

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Posted in Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, The Cookie Bar

Cugino’s Italian Deli & Pizza Restaurant, Las Vegas NV

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Cugino’s  Italian Deli & Pizzeria

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Garlic Knots

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Fried Gnocchi

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Neapolitan Rice Ball

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Margarita Sicilian – Fresh Mozzarella, Tomato Sauce, Fresh Basil

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White Pizza – Ricotta, Romano, Mozzarella, Italian Spices

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Ricotta Cannoli

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Located in a small complex just steps off the UNLV campus and part of my regular workday walking route Cugino’s Italian Deli had long been on my “to do” list; a Saturday afternoon visit with two friends proving the rumors of pricy yet good East Coast Italian classics to be quite accurate. Small in size and curt in customer service it was with admitted indecision that our group approached the Cugino’s counter and ordering on-the-fly a six-part meal emerged, the $66 meal presented in four courses with plenty of leftovers and mostly impressive results. Undoubtedly a red sauce joint despite a multitude of housemade salads and sandwiches it was with fried pillows of ricotta gnocchi that the meal began and with each creamy morsel crispy on the exterior but virtually oilless I was immediately impressed – a trend continued in the tender rice ball buried in house-pulled mozzarella and tangy marinara. Obviously prone to over-ordering, particularly in small groups, our trio next doubled down on a pair of pies and while the thin white pie proved somewhat bland to my tastes with a mundane crust tinged with semolina the Sicilian dazzled as fresh mozzarella formed soft puddles amidst aromatic tomato sauce bright with acid and appropriately devoid of sugar. Breezing through a plate of golden garlic knots aggressively seasoned with its namesake herb and kissed with butter before finishing the meal with pre-filled cannoli already experiencing some sog it was with a bit of disappointment that I was informed neither house-made rainbow cookies nor tiramisu were available outside the freezer but with stomachs full and leftovers boxed as conversation flowed it would be hard to say I regretted much…except perhaps neglecting the tripe soup or eponymous Cugino’s Special sandwich, both on the short ‘there’s always next time’ list, though a repeat trek to similar-but-better Montesano’s will most certainly come first.

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THREE STARS: A traditional Italian deli and pizzeria just like one might find in cities like New York, Philadelphia, and Boston Cugino’s is every bit as ‘authentic’ a spot as one might get on the East Coast and while not as friendly, accommodating, or well-priced as Montesano’s the goods here should dispel any rumors that good red sauce Italian cannot be found in Sin City.

RECOMMENDED: Sicilian Pie, Rice Balls, Fried Gnocchi

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AVOID: Cannoli – here or anywhere these things should never be ordered pre-filled.

TIP: Clearly focused on the college crowd and turning food out at a rapid pace those interested in something a bit more esoteric would be best served to contact Cugino’s in advance; a list of interesting specialty pastries, soups, and holiday favorites such as struffoli available by special order is posted alongside the register.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://cuginositalian.com/

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Posted in Cugino's, Cugino's Italian Deli, Cugino's Italian Deli & Pizza Restaurant, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Italian, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pizza

Caked Las Vegas, Las Vegas NV

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Caked Las Vegas

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Vanilla Dossant

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Cinnamon Sugar Dossant

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Red Velvet Cupcake

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Chocolate Cupcake

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Having tried to visit Caked once prior, when a sign on the door pronounced them closed “on 11/28,” during a day that was in fact the twenty-eighth of April, I decided to give the small bakery a second chance on the Saturday before Mother’s Day, the result experience I’ll not soon forget as snooty service, limited selection, and truly awful product collided in disastrous fashion. Citing slow sales as an excuse for a mere four cupcakes and three styles of “Dossant” for sale just ten minutes after opening I stood rather perplexed as the short server glared at me and asked “so, what do you want?” and deciding I’d rather not have wasted the trip a quartet was selected – the low $10.58 tab yielding hastily bagged rings and cakes smashed in a plastic clamshell. Limited in seating and unpleasant in demeanor it was to the Starbucks next door that I proceeded for my tasting and sampling each item in the warm sun a “get what you pay for” theme soon emerged, the copyright-infringement skirting crispy fried croissants tasting suspiciously of old oil while cupcakes proved dry and dull beneath competent, mildly sweet frosting – my unconfirmed suspicion that “slow sales” meant I was purchasing Friday’s unlabeled leftovers from people unhappy to be at work on a Saturday.

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ONE STAR: One of the worst bakeries I’ve experienced in Las Vegas or elsewhere I can only assume something has changed dramatically at Caked in recent months as older reports suggest both variety and skill. Poor in selection and unpleasant in manner there are far better bakeries throughout Las Vegas and having left more than 75% of what I purchased in the Starbucks wastebasket I’m rather certain even that overpriced corporate giant proves a better value on the dollar.

RECOMMENDED: Going elsewhere

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AVOID: Caked Las Vegas

TIP: With a website clearly focused on the custom baked cake side of the business perhaps Caked shows better in that setting but with Freeds just up the street I’m not sure why anyone would choose to find out for themselves.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.cakedlasvegas.com/

Caked Las Vegas on Urbanspoon

Posted in Caked, Caked Las Vegas, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

Sunrise Cafe, Las Vegas NV

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Original Sunrise Café

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Coffee and Water

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Snow Caps – Butter fried bagel slices, cinnamon sugar

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The Ultimate – Texas Toast soaked in English Toffee Batter, topped with Pecans, Caramel, and Powdered Sugar

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Homerun French Toast – Graham Cracker Peanut Butter Sandwiches dipped in Reese’s Peanut Butter Batter topped with Bananas, Powdered Sugar, and Grape Jelly Reduction

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Banana Cream Pancakes – Pancakes infused with banana syrup and bananas, topped with pecans and served with dulce de leche whipped cream butter

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Located just off the 215 in the southeast part of town I’d long been looking for a reason to visit Original Sunrise Café and with the Art Festival of Henderson scheduled for Mother’s Day weekend I finally decided to make the trek, my reward a good meal at a fair price with sterling service from beginning to end. As much a “mom n’ pop” spot as any in Las Vegas it was 7:05am when I walked in the café door and with smiley greetings amidst the sunbathed room I quickly found a seat, a full view of the kitchen plus the NFL Draft my amusement as I navigated the two-page laminated menu with the first of several cups of coffee in hand. Always trending sweet over savory it was with gluttony followed by glee that I inquired about half-portions or short-stacks and informed that both could be accommodated it was a quartet that comprised my order, the signature “Snow Caps” of sliced bagels fried in butter under a dusting of cinnamon sugar soon delighting me in its simplicity as I watched the restaurant fill. Ever gracious in service as java flowed free a pair of pancakes arrived next and although improved by creamy dulce de leche the cakes themselves lacked, a mistake thankfully not replicated in either of the French Toasts, The Ultimate a more traditional version with buttery bread soaked in toffee and caramel while the Homerun can best be described as a battered after-school snack griddled to soft and topped with fresh bananas plus grape jam – a concept as simple as the Snow Caps and every bit as worth getting out of bed early for.

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THREE AND A HALF STARS: One of many pleasant little independent breakfast/brunch/lunch spots speckling the valley I love the service and the vibe at Original Sunrise and would recommend locals check it out. Not exactly a ‘destination’ breakfast but far better than Rise and Shine or others in the Southeast Valley there is nothing here you can’t make at home for less but with such lovely service why not let someone else do it for you?

RECOMMENDED: Snow Caps, Homerun French Toast

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AVOID: Pancakes proved a bit doughy and without syrup would also be too dry; an option for pure maple syrup at a surcharge would be welcomed.

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TIP: Get there before 8:00am on weekends or be prepared to wait and be sure to take them up on the free coffee refill in a to-go cup when your meal is done; always a nice touch.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.eatatsunrise.com/

Original Sunrise Cafe on Urbanspoon

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, Nevada, Original Sunrise Cafe, Pancakes, Sunrise Cafe

Aces & Ales on Tenaya, Las Vegas NV

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Aces & Ales – Tenaya

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Pretzels – Bavarian style, beer cheese, queso, spicy grain mustard

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Wisconsin Fried Cheese Curds – White Cheddar, Beer Batter, Hot Sauce, Bleu Cheese, Ranch

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Margherita Pizza – Homemade sauce, olive oil, garlic, mozzarella, roma tomatoes, parmesan, fresh basil, half pepperoni

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House Mac n’ Cheese – Sweet Cream, Blend of Cheeses, Topped with Parmesan and Breadcrumb Crust

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Green Apple, Bacon, Cheddar Grilled Cheese with Arrogant Bastard Onion Rings

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The Cookie Thing – Chocolate Chip stout cookie, chunks of chocolate, stout reduction, vanilla ice cream

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Having found myself quite impressed by Born And Raised with a subsequent visit to Naked City Pizza Shop showing nearly as well it was with only modest ‘bar food’ skepticism that I agreed to a friend’s suggestion to visit Aces & Ales on North Tenaya for some Saturday Night playoff action – a game-tying goal with 7-seconds on the clock and an OT-Win for the Kings pairing with surprisingly good food and a relaxed atmosphere for a nice change of pace. Large in size and seemingly crafted from an old barn with comfortable communal seating amidst the glow of two-dozen televisions and gentle fluorescent lights it was mere moments after entrance that we were greeted by our young waitress and although not much help on the enormous beer list her service proved competent, each of six plates and six beers brought with good pacing and wide-smiles as water glasses continually brimmed full. Unable to speak to the beer flight but impressed by the $12 tab it was with bar-food-staple soft pretzels alongside squeaky curds that we began and with both golden bites proving plenty salty it was the sauces that served as game-changers – the funky bleu, beer cheese, and queso all remarkable. Moving next to things more substantial it was to a truly cheesy trio that we were next treated and although the pizza could have tolerated a few more minutes in the oven to firm up the crust I was more than impressed by the ingredient quality across the board – bright Romas and fresh basil on the pie while crisp bacon and snappy apples graced the toasty sandwich, a skillet of tender macaroni under a blend of cream, cheese, and breadcrumbs rounding out the troika. Never one to end a good meal without something sweet it was last but not least that we rounded out the evening with a steamy skillet cookie riddled with chocolate chips and eating more as a pudding than a cookie beneath Blue Bell Vanilla as Gaborik ended the game I couldn’t help but smile…they just don’t do sports bars like this back in Ohio.

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THREE STARS: Featuring a more than competent kitchen, tremendous beer list, and more TVs than one could possibly need in a cleanly environment I rather wish Aces & Ales would nix the Jukebox and offer the play-by-play but with that small quibble and the server’s lack of encyclopedic beer knowledge aside it would be hard to argue against Aces & Ales as a great place to catch the game, though for those living south or central I’d still lean towards Born and Raised.

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RECOMMENDED: Macaroni and Cheese, Grilled Cheese, Cheese Curds.

AVOID: Onion rings were oily and Pizza could have used a few more degrees or a few more minutes in the oven.

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TIP: Featuring communal seating, bar-side gambling, and touch tunes there is more than just sports and beer on tap at Aces & Ales but like most venues in the Valley this place is 21+ only.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://acesandales.com/

Aces & Ales on Urbanspoon

Posted in Aces & Ales, Aces & Ales on Tenaya, Aces and Ales, Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Hockey, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pizza, Pork

BLVD Creamery, Las Vegas NV

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BLVD Creamery

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(samples) Watermelon Jalapeno, Black Cherry Ice Cream, Black Cherry Sorbet, Rice Pudding, Tres Leches, Maple Bacon, Avocado Bacon, Pink Grapefruit, Coffee, Lemon Cheesecake, Vanilla, Chocolate

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Rice Pudding Ice Cream in an Oreo Chocolate Waffle Bowl

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Snickerdoodle

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Chocolate Chip

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The latest roll-out in the reinvention of The Monte Carlo, and aside from Yusho the most interesting by far, BLVD Creamery opened with little fanfare but with elegant ice creams, sorbets, and baked goods made in house daily one can only hope artisan ice cream is the new ‘celebrity burger’ of The Strip. Large in both size and selection with high ceilings and kitschy cow décor plus a youthful staff already well trained it was just after 1pm that I entered the new BLVD and bearing no relationship to the cocktail bar in The Linq my experience started out with a tasting – no two-spoon limit like that of Sprinkles either, just a smiling face with recommendations comprising nearly half the selections and none but the overly-subtle tres leches less than impressive. Silky in texture and close to gelato in heft with large single-scoops starting at $4 it was eventually on the horchata-esque rice pudding that I settled and served in a fresh baked compressed-cookie bowl without accoutrements I can confidently say Art of Flavors finally has some creamy frozen competition – a bit of oneupsmanship from the newcomer, even, in the form of two warm cookies on par with the best of Las Vegas Boulevard. Similarly priced to AoF as well as Sprinkles with a patio adjacent to the new Sambalatte one can only hope that BLVD spurs the same sort of creativity and competition in frozen treats that Due Forni and Settebello brought to reinvent the Las Vegas pizza scene over the last ten years because in a city of two-million with triple digit temperatures and tons of tourists there is a whole lot of space between Monte Carlo and Chef Desyree’s spot up north for something cold and creamy.

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FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Featuring bold flavors, immaculate textures, and a space conducive to sitting, chatting, and watching the scenes of The Strip one should applaud MGM Group for again taking a chance. First Japanese Streetfood, then a locally owned coffee house, and now the first true artisan scoop shop on the strip – I can’t wait to see what’s next.

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RECOMMENDED: Snickerdoodle, Rice Pudding, Bacon Avocado, Black Cherry Sorbet, Lemon Cheesecake.

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AVOID: Tres Leches – simply too bland, even the Vanilla is better.

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TIP: Unlike many ice cream shops BLVD cuts you a break on subsequent scoops and more so on sundaes; with house made salty caramel sauce and fudge plus a number of 50cent toppings the sundaes look to be gluttonous bargain.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://montecarlo.com/

Posted in BLVD Creamery, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

Holsteins, Las Vegas NV

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Holsteins

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Buttered Popcorn

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Tiramisu Shake – Mascarpone Ice Cream, Ladyfinger Crumbs, Patron Xo Café, Chocolate Syrup, Cocoa Powder, Espresso Beans

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Banana Cream Pie – Bananas, Vanilla Custard, Nilla Wafers, Caramel, Crème de Banane, Licor 43, White Chocolate Covered Nutty Banana

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Crispy Pork Belly Bun – Chinese steamed Bun, Hoisin Sauce, Cucumber, Pea Shoots

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Rising Sun Burger – Kobe Beef, Teriyaki Glaze, Nori Furikake, Crispy Yam, Spicy Mayo, Tempura Avocado with Onion Rings

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Truffle Lobster Mac n’ Cheese – Creamy Tallegio-Mascarpone Sauce, Maine Lobster, Black Truffle

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Shrimp & Grits Hush Puppies – Rock Shrimp, Andouille, Cheddar, Remoulade

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Un-Birthday Cake – Confetti Cake, Vanilla Frosting, Berry Crumble, Sugar Spirals, Cotton Candy

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Another concept restaurant from Block 16 Hospitality that has generated raves since its inception at The Cosmopolitan I’d frequently entertained a visit to Holsteins but it was not until nearly three and a half years after first visiting the property that I finally sat down for lunch, a $130 meal for two at a casual ‘shakes and buns’ place rather absurd in retrospect even though much of the experience was admittedly quite good. Large, loud, and sceney on its own and all the more so with Marquee launching its dayclub across the way it was amongst the sunkissed and scantily clad that we entered Holsteins at the eleven o’clock opening hour and led to a large table with views of both the televised NHL playoffs as well as the crowd our meal began promptly with buttered popcorn and water as effusively friendly and efficient service guided us through the new spring menu. Not particularly fond of burgers myself but willing to share in the setting of other selections it was with a duo of creamy, boozed-up shakes alongside four underwhelming hushpuppies that tasted neither of shrimp nor spicy pork that our order kicked-off and progressing at a good pace as the dining crowd swelled it was not long before the second wave arrived; the $17 pasta hilariously overpriced given the dearth of lobster and small size but both the belly on bao and burger truly delicious – the later a perfect medium with great balance and texture derived from impeccable accoutrements including the melting avocado. Never one to skimp on sweets, particularly in belated celebration of my friend’s birthday, it was with the new “Un-Birthday” cake that our meal concluded and featuring layers of dense cake juxtaposing smooth frosting in a portion large enough for four suffice it to say that the $15 charge is warranted, a rarity on any Block 16 menu.

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THREE STARS: Entirely underwhelmed by Flour + Barley and generally finding the one-off concepts from Block 16 to be excessively overpriced I was pleasantly surprised by Holsteins. Certainly not a bargain by any stretch of the imagination it should be no surprise to anyone that restaurants on The Strip carry a significant upcharge and focusing only on the shakes and buns one could enjoy a good meal here for less than $30 all-in with impressive ingredients and creativity trumping other similarly priced burger spots within the major hotels.

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RECOMMENDED: Burger, Shake, Birthday Cake

AVOID: Flavorless Hush Puppies, overpriced ‘exotic’ ingredients like truffles and lobster.

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TIP: Known to garner waits of up to ninety minutes during weekend lunch and dinner service reservations are a great idea for those choosing to dine during peak hours. For those too young or simply averse to boozy shakes it should also be noted that all signature shakes can be ordered virgin for $3 less…or with another shot for $3 more.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://www.holsteinslv.com

Holsteins on Urbanspoon

Posted in Dessert, Food, Holsteins, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Nevada, Pork, Tiramisu, Truffle

Divine Eatery, Las Vegas NV

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Divine Eatery

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Fonte Coffee

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Hot Biscuit with Honey

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Short Stack Red Velvet Pancakes – 2 Chocolately Red Velvet Pancakes with Cream Cheese Icing and Whipped Cream

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The Nutty French Toast – Texas Toast with Pecans and Caramel Sauce

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The Double Trouble – 4 Deep Fried Oreos, 1 Twinkie, Strawberry Sauce, Powdered Sugar

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Located all the way up in Centennial and tucked away in a small business park it was a serendipitous mention by a colleague browsing restaurant.com that lead me through the doors of Divine Eatery just after seven on a bright Saturday morning, my entry met by an empty dining room and warm welcomes from the lone cook and single server. Not exactly the sort of place one stumbles upon but warm and cheery with local art available for purchase on the walls the menu of Divine Eatery is divided into breakfast/lunch sections for those arriving from 7a-2p with dinner commencing at five o’clock and with both staples and novelties available my order veered towards breakfast – a three part order mistakenly turning into four when my server seemingly read my mind and ordered dessert for me even though I’d not requested it. Surprisingly soon to swell in patronage as the clock struck 7:30 and reaching perhaps 2/3 capacity by eight it was with several cups of Seattle’s Fonte coffee and the restaurant’s 80s soundtrack that I passed time until my breakfast arrived and citing Divine’s reluctance to stock artificial sweetener “to focus on natural, unprocessed” food I have to say I was a bit let down as all options arrived with artificial maple syrup while the $5 Red Velvet short-stack tasted not only processed but chalky as well. Turning my attention to the items that worked, both the scratch made buttermilk biscuit and crispy French Toast serving as a sort of crust to a topping of pecan pie proved remarkable while my freebie dessert – not at all natural or unprocessed – was exactly what you’d expect, the strawberry jus sopped up into the light batter of the Twinkie rousing thoughts of the pending summer and shortcake.

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TWO AND A HALF STARS: A bit out of the way but well priced and decidedly local Divine Eatery simply lacks the breadth and creativity found at other local breakfast joints like Cracked Egg, Blueberry Hill, Babystacks, or Egg and I. Certainly not a ‘bad’ restaurant but the sort of place where inconsistent policies such as shunning Sweet n’ Low for Stevia are undermined by fried Oreos I cannot really think of a reason I’d go out of my way to visit Divine but for those in the area looking for a good breakfast at a good price it should suffice.

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RECOMMENDED: French Toast, Biscuit, Coffee.

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AVOID: Red Velvet Pancakes

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TIP: Currently offering $10 and $25 coupons through restsaurant.com my whole breakfast pre-tip was $9.46. For those using GPS, be aware that Google Maps will take you a quarter mile too far north on Hualapai – the restaurant is actually tucked ‘round back of the Sinclair station on the west side of the street.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://divineeatery.com/

Divine Eatery on Urbanspoon

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Divine Eatery, Fonte Coffee, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes

Sugar Factory at Town Square, Las Vegas NV

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Sugar Factory at Town Square

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Cherry Tootsie Pop – Chocolate and Cherry Vodka, Godiva Milk Chocolate Liqueur, Cherry Puree

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Cotton Candy Cosmo – Pinnacle Cotton Candy Vodka, Poprock’s Rim

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Carrot Cake – Toasted Coconut Cream Cheese Icing, Candied Walnuts, Drizzled with Pineapple Sauce

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Red Velvet Sundae – Vanilla Ice Cream, Red Velvet Cake Chunks, Fresh Raspberry, Vanilla Ice Cream, Warm Fudge, Whipped Cream, Sprinkles, Gummy Cherries

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Caramel Macchiato Martini Shot

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Chocolate Decadence French Toast – Dark Chocolate Stuffed Brioche, Juicy Strawberries, White Chocolate Cream, Maple Syrup

A locally born business having since expanded as far as New York I’d always been intrigued by the celebrity fascination with Sugar Factory but with an obviously overpriced menu and mixed reviews from persons I trust it was not until my visiting family purchased a Groupon that I finally decided to take the plunge, a late afternoon cocktail and dessert visit for three at the newest location in trendy Town Square. Sprawling in size with glitz, glitter, and glamour to spare as $30 lollipops lined the walls it was to the tunes of Britney followed by Daft Punk that we arrived to the semi-shrouded entrance and soon seated it would not be long before the first of several slick-talking servers stopped by, a ‘cool’ vibe clearly part of the training though not particularly well sold as a multitude of check-ins bordered on annoying. Undoubtedly a loud space, both literally and in the visual sense, it was to the tally of three plates plus two drinks that our $70 experience unfolded and with both drinks living up to the soda-sweet branding the desserts would mostly follow suit, the $13 slice of stuffed French Toast served with white chocolate alongside pure maple syrup doughy and underwhelming while a 3-scoop sundae and fruit-tinged carrot cake proved better, the former more than enough to share and the later a well balanced concoction of lightly sweetened frosting juxtaposing densely spiced cake. Certainly not a spot for subtlety and thereby de facto ‘celebrity’ suffice it to say my Sugar Factory curiosity is satisfied but with Serendipity offering up a better experience in a similar vein I can’t say I’ll be rushing back, though I won’t rule out an early morning breakfast at the 24/7 flagship sometime to see how they compare.

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TWO STARS: Taken for what it is Sugar Factory lives up to its name but even for someone with a substantial sweet tooth there are simply better options throughout Las Vegas to satisfy a craving, particularly on the strip where the Brasserie at Paris seems consistently full at all hours of the day.

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RECOMMENDED: Red Velvet Sundae, Carrot Cake

AVOID: Substantially overpriced French Toast and Sugar-bomb cocktails.

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TIP: Generally disdainful of Techno and EDM in all forms suffice it to say a seat on the patio or near the doors is the ‘best’ of a bad lot, the music nearer the bar a headache inducing disaster even with the restaurant 3/4 empty.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://sugarfactory.com/las-vegas-town-square

Sugar Factory on Urbanspoon

Posted in Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Sugar Factory, Sugar Factory at Town Square

Naked City Pizza on Arville, Las Vegas NV

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Naked City Pizza Shop on Arville

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Wee Chicken Finger Pizza – Blue cheese, chicken fingers, and mozzarella cheese

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Wee Back Home Pie – Thick tomato sauce mixed with mozzarella cheese and oregano, topped with pepperoni, sausage and Parmesan cheese with a garlic crust

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Pizza Logs – Hand rolled egg roll wrappers stuffed with pepperoni, mozzarella and red sauce

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Cannoli – Filled to order, two large pastry tubes with espresso mascarpone, whipped cream, chocolate chips, chocolate drizzle

Using the term ‘divey’ as gently as one can it would be hard to describe Moondoggies on Arville in any other way, the space itself a brick box housing old televisions, two lifetime allotments of cigarette stains, a straight-out-of-the-80s soundtrack, and the sort of patrons already drunk enough to dance and sing by noon on a Monday – plus Chris Palmeri’s scratch made Naked City Pizza. Considered by locals and even Food Network celebrities to be a local gem and decked out with Buffalo sports décor telling the Chef’s roots it was to self seating and questionably hung over service that my family entered the makeshift dining room and presented with menus plus recommendations our order took form, a surprisingly ‘artisan’ quartet of items soon to roll out of the kitchen with plenty of grease but smooth pacing and just enough polish to make it work. Starting out with smile-inducing “Pizza Logs,” essentially an eggroll impregnated by a calzone, before testing out a pair of pies it was to the tunes of Tainted Love that the spicy chicken finger iteration arrived and teaming with blue cheese plus white sauce over a crispy semolina-spiked crust I immediately swooned, a ‘specialty’ pizza justifying its novelty while far outperforming the subsequent “Back Home Pie” which tasted good but suffered texturally under too many meaty toppings and red sauce muddled by cheese and grease. At this point duly impressed with later plans for dessert it was just as we were about to settle the tab that our server suggested the cannoli and describing them as ‘filled to order’ I couldn’t resist – a duo of crispy tubes stuffed with espresso-mascarpone proving twice as good as those at Carlo’s Bakery at nearly half the price as Duran Duran played on.

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THREE AND A HALF STARS: Every bit the definition of a diamond in the rough I entered Naked City with modest expectations and walked away duly impressed, a tall order given my predilection for Neapolitan pies but true none the less. Sure the space is a little rough around the edges but in reality that is part of the charm, the quality of the food exceeding that of the environs…though if you’re lucky there’s really no beating the entertainment of a man with a mullet and a wife-beater belting out Madonna as he walks to the restroom for the sixth time in 60 minutes.

RECOMMENDED: Chicken Finger Pizza, Pizza Logs, and Cannoli

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AVOID: Pizzas with too many toppings, particularly those with a lot of meat as even this substantial crust is prone to sogginess underneath the rendered fats and oils.

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TIP: Seating close to the restroom and vending machines may seem an illogical choice to some but with the vents directly overhead the four-top juxtaposing the boxing game proved the least smoky in the space by a significant degree.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.nakedcitylv.com/

Naked City Pizza Shop on Urbanspoon

Posted in Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Naked City Pizza, Naked City Pizza on Arville, Nevada, Pizza, Pork

Del Mar Deli, Las Vegas NV

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Del Mar Deli

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Pecan Bar

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Black and White Cookie

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Cinnamon Roll

Owned and operated by the team behind Bagel Café and serving a limited menu of items baked at the flagship plus a number of selections made on the premises of The Southpoint it was largely by accident that I stumbled upon Del Mar Deli but rarely in the area and with the Sportsbook in plain view I gave way to temptation, a twelve dollar trio proving every bit as impressive as the items up north. Small in size and a bit drab in decor amidst the smoky locals casino it was to a short line of patrons and a smiling staff that I arrived at the Del Mar counter and watching the bakers work for a few minutes in order to determine what was fresh my order wrote itself – two items warm from the rack while the last was cut from a pan, wrapped, and saved for later…at least in theory. New York Jewish in concept but apparently insufficiently kosher in its offerings as I overheard a young rabbi and his wife discussing their sandwiches it was with a springy hot cinnamon roll beneath rapidly melting icing that my tasting began and moving next to a saucer-sized black and white with modestly sweet frosting atop a delicate crumb my taste buds swooned, the half shared with my mother and aunt equally well received along with a dense pecan bar dipped in chocolate shell atop a butter crust that barely made it past the slot machines en route to the car.

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THREE AND A HALF STARS: Undoubtedly lacking the charm of its North Buffalo sibling but serving up equally impressive baked goods in an area not particularly known for gastronomy Del Mar Deli is everything Carlo’s Bakery and the counter at Carnegie Deli fails to be – a casino-based throwback to affordable ethnic pastry where quality, value, and customer service matter more than stereotypes and the name on the door.

RECOMMENDED: Black and White Cookie, Pecan Bar, Warm Cinnamon Roll.

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AVOID: Leftover or Cooled Cinnamon Roll as the yeasted rise of the dough is prone to becoming soggy.

TIP: Staff confirmed that while many items are made in the Del Mar kitchen the bagels are not; for those willing to schlep for the best bagel in town a 7am arrival at Bagel Café is your best bet.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.southpointcasino.com/dining/deli.php

Del Mar Deli on Urbanspoon

Posted in Breakfast, Del Mar Deli, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

Baguette Cafe, Las Vegas NV

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Baguette Café

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Chocolate Torte

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Croissant

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Chocolate Twist

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Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookie

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Banana Nut Chocolate Chip Muffin

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Financier

Highly praised by locals and viewed from the highway on my Monday to Wednesday commute the lone factor preventing me from visiting Olivier Brouillet’s “Baguette Café” to date was the weekday only hours, an understandable choice given the restaurant’s business-park locale but a pity for those living within the somewhat Un-Vegasy constraints of a 7:30a-5:00p Monday through Friday schedule. Small in size but airy in décor it was just after eight o’clock on a PTO Monday with family in town that our trio made way into the brightly lit room and with a few locals lingering over coffee as fresh baked goods stocked a small pastry case it was mere seconds before Olivier greeted us with a smile, our affirmation to his “first time?” inquiry leading to a full description of nearly every item ready or soon to emerge from the kitchen and our eventual order comprising the majority of them. Admittedly intrigued by the sandwiches but preferring to focus on pastry it was with mild disappointment that Illy was the only brew offered as I find their over-roasted beans poorly suited for much but with this small quibble aside the glut soon to arrive would by-and-large impress, the simple croissant on par with those of Paris as shattering layers gave way to echoing caverns of butter while four items laced with high quality chocolate each proved superlative – the crispy rimmed cookie near-molten at its core and the torte rich in taste but ethereal in texture. Not quite as impressive or diverse as Bonjour Bakery or La Belle Terre but featuring a combination of great pastry and lovely service that sets it apart Baguette Café is every bit the local gem that many have claimed and although hours and coffee will prevent frequent visits I’ve no doubt I’ll find my way back eventually if not for a full meal at least for thing; an almond financier beyond my superlatives warranting any presumed hassles of location or time, even rush-hour on the 215.

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FOUR STARS: Locals-only both by design and location but every bit on par with the best of The Strip at less than half the price it would be easy to begrudge Baguette Café their weekends off yet with a passionate owner clearly invested in his craft overseeing the whole operation there is something to be said for such a business model preventing burnout; quality of life begetting a quality experience infrequently found in corporate boutiques more closely focused on the bottom line.

RECOMMENDED: Croissant, Financier, Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookie – the latter two particularly memorable when warm.

AVOID: Illy Coffee and arriving too early as some of the more unique pastries aren’t ready until 8:30.

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TIP: A bit off the beaten path and thus requiring a little backtracking for those arriving via the Beltway heading east first timers may consider checking the GPS or a map in order to avoid frustration.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Baguette-Cafe/201710196512826

Baguette Cafe on Urbanspoon

Posted in Baguette Cafe, Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

Hugo’s Cellar, Las Vegas NV

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Hugo’s Cellar

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Tom Collins and a Gin-Lemon-Seven

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Butter Rose, White Roll, Cheese Lavosh, Whole Grain Roll

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Escargot en Croute – Six plump escargots sautéed in shallots, garlic, burgundy wine, fine herbs with a puff pastry topping

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Tableside Salad – Romaine, Tomato, Hearts of Palm, Artichokes, Mushrooms, Blue Cheese, Croutons, Pine Nuts, Hardboiled Egg, Bay Shrimp with Creamy Pepper Dressing

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Raspberry Sorbet

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Stuffed Jumbo Shrimp – Jumbo shrimp stuffed with crab, parsley, savory and ‘old bay’ seasoned bread crumbs

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Duckling Anise Flambé – Duck roasted with licorice spices and herbs; flambéed table-side

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Beef Wellington – Filet of beef, topped with a duxelle of foie gras and mushrooms; baked in pastry and served with bordelaise sauce

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White and dark chocolate dipped strawberries, apricots and baby figs with whipped cream

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Bananas Foster

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Cherries Jubilee

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Located in The Four Queens on Fremont and considered by many to be the best “Old Vegas” experience remaining in a city once rife with dens of a similar ilk Hugo’s Cellar had always been on my proverbial ‘to-do’ list and despite the constant onslaught of new spots from celebrity chefs on the Strip a Sunday night visit found the venerable institution packed – the ‘reservations recommended’ sign proving justified as couples attempting to walk-in met a two hour wait. Dimly lit with stone walls, wood beams, heavy linens, and art-glass chandeliers overhead it was to formal greetings and a rose for the ladies that we arrived in the Cellar and whisked away soon to a booth in one of several rooms the action soon commenced, each waiter presented by name as a trio of warm breads with a butter rose plus the famous tableside salad engaged the senses – the later a true crowd pleaser carefully customized for each and every guest. Large in menu with a bar that promised to craft “anything you like” it was with a stiff pair of $7 cocktails that our proper order progressed and soon plucking tender snails under delicate pastry from their dish one really couldn’t help but smile at a classic done so well, a theme continued with each of three superlative entrees following a raspberry palate cleanse – the tableside whole duckling a showstopper gathering looks from around the room while the Wellington rivaled that at Ramsay Steak beneath a pile of mushrooms and foie gras. Truly a class act it was prior to desserts-proper that a trio of chocolate dipped fruits arrived to be dressed in hand-whipped cream and with more sweets offered on the house to celebrate a duo of birthdays it was tableside we turned again – the smolder and burn of booze, fresh fruit, and cinnamon ladled over rich ice cream a refined finish to a true ‘experience.’

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FOUR STARS: Served with appropriate pomp and pageantry Hugo’s Cellar is simply the sort of restaurant one just doesn’t see often enough these days, a testament to ‘dining’ as opposed to just eating. Serious food from a place that does not take itself too seriously to have fun a meal here is certainly not cheap but with all the smile inducing extras there was not a person in the room who seemed less than thrilled to be there in celebration with friends and family.

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RECOMMENDED: Cheese Lavosh, Escargot, Tableside Duck, Beef Wellington, Cherries Jubilee.

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AVOID: Wild rice was undercooked and a bit starchy, green asparagus was still a bit woody.

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TIP: Lighter appetites should avoid Filling up on the breads and salad, no matter how good, as portion sizes are quite large and preparations do not skimp on butter or cream. Additionally, fully validated parking is offered at the Four Queens cage for those arriving by car.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://www.hugoscellar.com/

Hugo's Cellar on Urbanspoon

Posted in Bread Basket, Crab, Dessert, Foie, Food, Hugo's Cellar, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada

Cafe Darak, Las Vegas NV

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Café Darak

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Blueberry Lemonade, Mocha Frappe, Strawberry Smoothie

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Honey Toast

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Located in a nondescript strip mall with a simple black and white banner serving as the only indication of its existence suffice it to say that Café Darak is all the rage with local Yelpers, the Korean-style shop serving up a variety of coffees, teas, frappes, and desserts in a setting conducive to conversation and relaxing amidst shabby-chic furniture, kitsch decor, and even a pop-up canvas Volkswagen bus. Best described by the term ‘precious’ with stamp cards hung on the walls and toys delivered with each tray of drinks it was to the sounds of Velvet Underground that we entered the small store and although the only ones placing an order as a few customers lingered to utilize the surprisingly slow Wi-Fi the pace of the service was leisurely at best – three drinks and a dessert necessitating nearly twenty minutes’ wait and rousing wonder of what would happen in the case of more business. Left to rest as Lou Reed rambled overhead when drinks finally arrived expectations were perhaps slightly inflated and although the blueberry lemonade proved both tangy and natural neither the strawberry smoothie nor the mocha frappe were memorable in the least – a subpar blender delivering a crunchy iced experience that could not be sipped through a straw with bland flavors harkening subpar fruits and cheap chocolate sauce, respectively. Largely unimpressed by the beverages along with the substantial wait it was thankfully in the toast that Darak found a bit of solace as the crunchy bread yielded a pliable center gilded with honey, ice cream, cinnamon and sliced almonds but with the rest of the desserts made elsewhere and the rest of the experience largely lacking I’d be hard pressed to justify a reason to return with two Sambalatte locations serving up a better vibe, larger variety, quality baristas, and a true in-house pastry program without all the twee and time waste.

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ONE AND A HALF STARS: Overpriced, overrated, and a little too cute for its own good Café Darak strikes me as a place for kids to hang out and chat over drinks no better than those at Starbucks. Pairing slow service with outsourced pastry there are simply far better places to get coffee in Las Vegas and most of them don’t subject patrons to Lou Reed or laggy wi-fi.

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RECOMMENDED: Honey Toast and Lemonade

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AVOID: Anything necessitating a blender; Darak would be better off with a $30 Magic Bullet than the aged contraption they are using.

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TIP: As noted above, pastries are not made in house and coffee is not particularly well roasted – mileage may vary for the tea drinkers who seemed to constitute the majority of patrons during our forty minute stay.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

https://www.facebook.com/CafeDarak.naeunyun

Cafe Darak on Urbanspoon

Posted in Cafe Darak, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada

Culinary Dropout, Las Vegas NV

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Culinary Dropout

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Soft Pretzels and Provolone Fondue

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Fried Chicken – Honey Biscuit, Potatoes, Gravy

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Burratta – Pears, Walnuts, Balsamic, Grilled Bread

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Cap’n Crunch Crusted French Toast – Cereal Milk Custard, Fresh Raspberries

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Baked to Order Monkey Bread – Cinnamon Apple Brioche, Vanilla Ice Cream

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Salted Caramel Custard – Caramel Corn

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Arriving at The Hard Rock Hotel and Casino in the midst of Rehab with my mother and aunt in tow as Springsteen played overhead one can only call the scene en route to brunch part of the show, a five minute walk from Paradise parking to Fox Concepts’ “Culinary Dropout” bespecked with the scantily clad and already drunken while the restaurant itself proved a comparative sea of tranquility matched to good food and unexpectedly stunning service. Sprawling in size with garage-style doors open to the cool morning breeze of a picturesque patio it was close to the rounded bar with a full view of both stage and kitchen that our trio found itself located mere moments after entry and with coffee kept brimming from seating to finale a six-piece order was crafted, each item arriving individually with smooth pacing and beautiful presentation. Largely focusing on signatures but equally willing to explore seasonal preps and brunch-only items it was with the restaurant’s oft raved pretzel bites that the meal began and with rich fondue gilding golden soft nuggets we all agreed that rare has a pretzel impressed so much, a similar praise heaped on the house burrata with seasonal accoutrements drizzled with aged balsamic. Moving next to things more substantial it was admittedly with some disappointment that neither the $11 French Toast nor the $21 ‘worth the wait’ fried chicken proved nearly as memorable as their respective milk jam or biscuit plate-mates, but with the former too bready and the later far from crispy there are simply better versions to be found elsewhere, particularly at such a cost. At this point sated but certainly not full, the kitchen would quickly rally back with a duo of desserts and while the piping hot monkey bread certainly deserves the attention it has garnered it was the caramel-corn studded budino that stole the show for me, a dense pudding both salty and sweet with crunch and cream taken perfectly with another cup of coffee as Chris Cornell crooned overhead.

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THREE STARS: Having now visited Culinary Dropout and 24/7 Mr. Lucky’s next-door I’m comfortable saying that the Hard Rock is more than just a place for concerts, debauchery, and inked up visitors from Los Angeles though all three are abundant for those who choose to indulge. Clearly crafted to the hotel’s clientele but equally suited for families and those seeking local-seasonal ingredients in good hands I rather wish I’d have checked out the original during my 16 months in Phoenix to compare and contrast – perhaps my morning meals there would not have been quite so disappointing if I had.

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RECOMMENDED: Pretzel bites, caramel pudding, and the signature monkey bread.

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AVOID: The $21 fried chicken tastes closer to a brined and roasted bird than a fried one and French Toast was particularly underwhelming compared to the larger, better version offered at Wynn’s Terrace Point Café.

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TIP: Neither dessert menus nor charcuterie selections are offered up front with brunch though both are certainly available on request. Additionally, seating begins at ten o’clock despite being listed as 9:00am on The Hard Rock website.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

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http://www.culinarydropout.com/locations/las-vegas/

Culinary Dropout on Urbanspoon

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Culinary Dropout, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada

STRIPSTEAK, Las Vegas NV

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STRIPSTEAK

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Life is Beautiful – Nolet’s Silver Gin, Lychee Purée, Champagne, Chambord, Fresh Lemon served in a champagne flute with a lemon peel

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Mai Tai, Life is Beautiful, Cosmopolitan

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Trio of Duck Fat Fries – garlic-herb oil, sriracha ketchup, truffle aioli

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Salt Roasted Beets – burrata, crispy guanciale, balsamic reduction

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Lobster Bisque – lobster truffle, bristol cream

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Roasted Marrow Bones – country bread, gremolata, black truffle, caramelized onions

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Instant Bacon – five spice pork belly, tempura oyster, white miso, jicama slaw

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Maine Lobster Fritters – bacon, shiso leaf, meyer lemon crème fraiche

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Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras – strawberry gel, green almonds, pickled white asparagus, cocoa-foie macaron

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Wild Pacific Halibut – asparagus “fettuccine”, sunchoke purée, coconut-red curry

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Bacon Wrapped Strauss Veal – sweet & hot sweetbreads, globe artichokes, shaved fennel

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Mary’s Free Range Roasted Chicken – fingerling potatoes, garlic confit, chicken jus

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American Wagyu vs. Australian Wagyu – trumpet royale mushroom, sugar snap peas, spring garlic purée

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Baked Potato – aged cheddar, bacon marmalade

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Mac & Cheese – black truffle

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Spinach Souffle – parmesan cream

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Warm Chocolate Cake – lavender ganache, chocolate gelée, cocoa puffs, habanero-kaffir lime sorbet

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Meyer Lemon Cheesecake – crème chantilly, poppy seed shortbread, mint essence

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S’mores Bar – smokey marshmallow, valrhona milk chocolate, graham cracker ice cream

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Beignets – macallan 18 year butterscotch pudding, vanilla crème brûlée, chocolate pot de crème

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Caramel Corn

Having been fortunate enough to travel far and wide to sample some of the best dining our country has to offer it was after great deliberation that I decided to schedule a joint birthday celebration for my mother and aunt at Michael Mina’s STRIPSTEAK; a friendly relationship with one of the restaurateur’s managers allowing me to arrange a special five course tasting menu nearly a week in advance that should have been perfect but in execution was anything but. Surely one of the more trendy Mina properties, lodged in Mandalay Bay with high ceilings, slick design, and plenty of polish to compliment the thumping music it was just moments before our 7:00pm reservation that we presented to the hostess stand and quickly whisked to a table along the back wall it was with ample pleasantries that we were greeted, a trio of $15 cocktails to compliment the duck fat fries soon in hand but something immediately awry as the area’s temperature trumped eighty degrees – a trend to continue for the next two hours despite repeated complaints and the apparent efforts of restaurant manager Ashley to contact maintenance as beads of sweat rolled down our brows. Suffering largely in silence so as not to disrupt the celebration but clearly uncomfortable it would not be long after seating that our five-course menu would commence and wanting for a truly grand experience each round of food arrived as a trio, items including the “Instant Bacon,” Bone Marrow, Spinach Souffle, and Wagyu vs. Wagyu truly exemplary while the foie gras, chicken, and halibut were inexplicably overcooked to the point where the first two were nearly inedible while the later – a gift from the kitchen – was saved only by its aromatic sauce. Eventually moved to a table in the front dining room for a breath of fresh air mid-way into a main course where veal was presented instead of the pork that I’d ordered it was at last in the finale that STRIPSTEAK would prove most impressive with a trio of world class desserts followed by the restaurant’s signature beignets but with both managers avoiding our table as the $500 tab for Chef Gerald Chin’s uneven cooking arrived I could only shake my head wondering when Chef Mina last stopped by Mandalay Bay, a stunning departure from memorable experiences at Bourbon Steak, Wit and Wisdom, American Fish, or Arcadia.

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TWO STARS: Having been quite happy with nearly every Michael Mina restaurant I’d visited to date and always treated as a VIP by the I remain astounded as to how disappointing the experience of STRIPSTEAK truly was, a rickety rollercoaster of a meal from the kitchen and front of the house without a single attempt made at service recovery until midway through the fourth course – a too little, too late relocation unlikely to see me return to any of Chef Mina’s properties anytime soon.

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RECOMMENDED: Fattier cuts of meat, Spinach Souffle, and Dessert.

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AVOID: Chicken, lean meats, or other items benefitted by a subtle hand and gentle cooking techniques such as the foie gras.

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TIP: Avoid the back room and request seating up front where cool air from Mandalay Bay is uninhibited in its entry; if forced to accept back area seating at least request a location distant from the wall where speaker volumes are exaggerated in addition to the temperature.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://michaelmina.net/restaurants/locations/sslv.php

Stripsteak on Urbanspoon

Posted in Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Macaroon, Michael Mina, Nevada, Pork, Souffle, STRIPSTEAK, Sweetbreads, Truffle