Located in The Mission and boasting VPN certification despite several pies one would never see in Naples it was with high expectations that I approached Russ and Melody Stein’s Mozzeria, the small shop having received plenty of attention for its all-deaf staff but according to many not nearly enough for the quality of its product. Largely trattoria in concept featuring an array of pizzas plus a few small plates during counterside lunch with additional pastas and secondi appearing for table-service dinners it can rightfully be assumed that anyone importing a two-ton Stefano Ferrera oven is serious about their craft and with a minimalist décor of red, black, and wood as local arts decorate the walls the diners attention is squarely focused on the plate…or at least it should be after watching Russ expertly stretch, dress, and fire the rounds of ‘00’ dough. Burning around 850F on a combination of pecan and oak a pizza at Mozzeria begins with a smoky char to the pliable crust and featuring light saucing amidst pools of bubbly buffala mozzarella the Margherita DOP was a reliable classic while the crispy duck skin and supple flesh topping a crust flecked with sesame seeds that followed was simply stunning – a touch of hoisin and scallions served alongside added to outperform many more ‘authentic’ attempts throughout the United States.
RECOMMENDED: Going with a friend or three, particularly if dining at dinner where more than ten items caught my eye.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: For those unaware of the ownership and employees a first visit may be somewhat perplexing but from my experience both Russ and his wife are excellent lip readers, even able to answer atypical questions about the type of wood used in the oven without me repeating myself…and if you’re still worried, pads of paper and pens are provided at each and every table.
Dreamsicle – Milk, Orange Juice, Vanilla, Vanilla Ice Cream, Orange Sherbet, Whipped Cream, Cherry on top
Warm Brownie
French Toast Delight – Yogurt, Granola, Apples, Bananas, Strawberries, Pineapple
Exiting east out of Knead and waltzing down 24th Street towards Dynamo Donuts it was with long-held interest that I once again passed by St. Francis Fountain and with daily selections less than inspiring from the small storefront at 2760 I finally decided to quell my curiosity, a short walk back just one block landing me at a two-top in the 1918 soda fountain. Kitschy in décor with toys and trading cards from my youth available for purchase in a glass case while booths and tables sat tightly spaced juxtaposing the Formica bar it would be mere moments before I was greeted by the diner’s lone server and confirming hopes of an ‘all-day’ menu my order quickly took shape, a duo of childhood favorites readied at the counter along with French Toast arriving less than ten minutes later. Eschewing coffee in favor of things far sweeter it was in the classic Dreamsicle that my indulgence began and with Mitchell’s vanilla ice cream beneath a hefty scoop of orange sherbet plus just enough liquid to make the concoction sippable through a straw memories of meals at Friendly’s as a youngster came flooding back, a warm wedge of brownie delivered simultaneously equally worthy of reminiscence in its sheer simplicity – a lack of ‘artisan’ details oddly satisfying given the setting. Already all smiles as patrons aged five to seventy-five slowly began to trickle through the doors it was with my drink still half-full but the brownie long gone that my two slices of griddled sourdough next arrived and buried beneath a mountain of granola, fresh fruit, and tangy yogurt there was only one thing to do – a $1 supplement of pure maple syrup quickly flooding the plate adding an exclamation point to my ‘delight.’
RECOMMENDED: Dreamsicle, French Toast Delight
AVOID: The Brownie, while tasty enough, is priced a bit steep at $2.50 given the fact that the quality is similar to that from a box.
TIP: Undoubtedly a diner but never pretending to be anything more it is important to visit St. Francis with appropriate expectations – sure prices are higher chains such as Friendly’s serving food of arguably similar quality but part of what you’re paying for here is history and the experience, something that shouldn’t always be quantified in dollars and cents.
With destination dining at Quince and Saison decorating my first two days in San Francisco it was to no less excitement that I once again entered the doors of Local Mission Eatery on Friday morning and making a bee-line to the back my smile was quickly met by a familiar face, the talented Shauna Des Voignes setting out a fresh batch of her signature pomme d’amour amidst a collection of pastries all so familiar from my previous four visits. Rarely one to revisit a restaurant unless truly enthralled and even less frequently ordering the same item twice it was after a bit of small talk (ie me gushing with praise) that my order was settled and taking my items to the front while The Ramones played overhead Knead’s song remained the same, the still-jiggling puff of crème brulee devoured first and soon followed by my fifth butter pecan croissant – its hundreds of shattering layers overlying buttery caverns still the best laminated pastry to ever grace my palate. Tempted as always by the s’mores jar, cookies, and scones it was instead to a new confection that I turned in order to complete my trio and with paper-thin pastry just as delicate as those before it the “cream croissant” left me reeling; the lightly sweetened whipped cream piped into a golden butter croissant bursting forth both literally and figuratively with textures and flavors similar but superior to Boston’s fabled Lobster Tail…a strong contender along with many of the offerings at b.patisserie for second best laminated pastry I’ve been fortunate enough to encounter on this side of the Atlantic.
RECOMMENDED: Getting there early while items are fresh and ordering anything that strikes your fancy…plus a butter pecan croissant.
AVOID: Going on Monday – they are closed.
TIP: Located on 24th Street in The Mission with Dynamo Donuts, St. Francis Fountain, Butter Love Bakeshop, and countless ethnic bakeries just steps away the savvy diner would be well served to gather a group for a decidedly sweet walking tour of the Mission – an optional lunch of burritos and tacos to follow.
Long ignored due to my infatuation with Knead, b. patisserie, and Craftsman & Wolves it was with an early morning eleven mile run already under my belt that I finally made my way to Castro-favorite Thorough Bread & Pastry and although dismissive hipster service marred my experience at the counter I’d be lying if pronounced the pastry as anything less than impressive – only an overly-sweet frangipane-croissant disappointing in the least while the remaining half dozen selections shined. Certainly more classic in approach than the aforementioned trio and not nearly as storied as Tartine it was just after 7:15am that I arrived at the Church Street storefront and with obvious sighs plus an eye-roll accompanying requests for separate plates and warm bread pudding it was to the back patio that I retired to indulge, the buttery bread pudding an decadent first bite as laminated pastry proved an admirable scaffold for rich custard and pockets of melting dark chocolate. Underwhelmed by the croissant it was onward to two crisp cookies that my tasting progressed and with a soft scone well-endowed with butter plus blueberries quick to follow the best was yet to come – a salty caramel strew sticky bun crowned with toasty chopped pecans followed by reference standard spice cake chock full of carrots and lightly sweetened by layers cream cheese frosting that would make all but the most picky Southern Grandma swoon.
TIP: Featuring many of their cakes and signature items in both individual and full-sized options advanced orders are recommended for either size, particularly for early birds as certain selections are not otherwise offered until later in the day.
Slow Cooked Pork Belly, Dark Hill Egg, Brussel Sprouts
Blackberry Tart with Orange Fizz Geranium Ice Cream
Roasted Strawberry Cream Puff
Aerated Chocolate and Peanut Butter, Pansy Dusted Shortbread
Located on Russian Hill and conceptualized by the team behind Sons & Daughters it was following a long walk after dinner at Quince that I stopped in at The Square and although one particular plate proved amongst the best I experienced during my six days in the city little else about my experience proved memorable save for the amicable service and excessive decibels. Limited in menu with a focus on the bar it was just prior to 9:15 when I entered the renovated wood amidst brick space and finding the restaurant filled to perhaps half capacity beneath the glow of naked bulbs a seat was procured, orders soon to follow with a focus on small bites and desserts. Deferring on cocktails and instead opting for coffee that would prove both luke-warm and acrid it was with a single buttery roll and cultured butter that the evening began and progressing onward to a ‘snack’ and an ‘appetizer’ the gougeres would prove far too sour for my palate while the tender pork belly topped with crisp ears was a perfectly fine savory, though largely forgettable save for peppery bitter notes lent by a fresh radish. Moving onwards to desserts it was for two of the menu’s three selections that I opted and although the well-buttered tart was tilted too far savory in by an aggressively alkaline ice cream the follow-up cream puff was nothing short of dazzling – the choux pastry lightly coated with sugar while ethereal cream played soft balance to Northern California’s always impressive strawberries with a light smokiness tickling the palate in each bite.
RECOMMENDED: Strawberry Cream Puff, Parker Roll
AVOID: Crème Fraiche Gougeres
TIP: Largely due to a combination of stone walls and overhead music it should be noted that even at 50% capacity The Square is a loud restaurant and for those overly sensitive to sound I’d strongly recommend taking business elsewhere – a trip to Son’s & Daughters not only delivering a better experience but also far better food at a price point not substantially more expensive when accounting for the number of courses served.
Stuzzichini di Benvenuto – potato chip with pomme puree, razor clam, black olive / citrus cured salmon with zucchini and avocado mousse / Riesling cracker with chickpea, green curry, pickled green strawberry / corn barvois with lovage and buttermilk (not photographed)
Chilled Watermelon soup with watermelon rind and iberico ham
Four Story Hill Farm Poussin – Ranier Cherry, Sicilian Pistachio, Corn
Cheese Carte – Bodacious, Holey Moly, Cappucetto, Fruit Bread, Stone Fruit Moustarde, Fresh Honey Comb
Chartreuse Granita – Green Apple, Candied Apple, Honey
Middleton Farm Berries – Yogurt, Mara Des Bois, Valrhona Opalys
Mignardises
Amaro Ciociaro – Sora
Take Home Canele
Toqued by Michael Tusk and long tenured on my Bay Area bucket list it was mostly a matter of limited time and the area’s plethora of outstanding Italian dining that had delayed my seminal visit to Quince, a situation I vowed to remedy as soon as possible given a recently minted second star from Michelin and rumors of the restaurant executing at a whole new level since acquiring the talents of Jonathan Black as chef de cuisine. Located in a historic landmark building on Pacific with both service and décor befitting the Relais & Chateaux designation it was just after the restaurant’s 5:30 opening that I was welcomed at the hostess podium and soon finding comfort at a spacious two-top it would not be long before the show began, a complimentary glass of champagne and five small bites presented before I ever even glimpsed a menu. Featuring three options for dining with a trio of optional supplements it was without debate that I opted for Tusk’s 9+ course “Quince Menu” and starting off with an amuse bouche of melon soup nearly every course to follow could be best summarized by the word ‘fresh’ – the chef’s time at Chez Panisse on full display with perfect produce and light proteins in harmony at every turn. Steady in progression with a gift of pea soup proving an early favorite it was in the menu’s third proper course, the $30 supplement of “Tortelli alla Cecilia Chiang,” that the evening truly took flight and although nothing to follow would surpass the burst of briny eggs juxtaposing creamy smoked sturgeon both the Tagliolini and Tortellini were also beyond reproach, a similar bit of praise befitting the poussin and its accoutrements despite a near-thirty minute delay in its delivery due to a large party Beautiful in sweets service though unfortunately not on par with the savories in terms of taste or texture it was with good fortune that an early inquiry was made about the restaurant’s recently-defunct cheese cart and in a show of service befitting America’s top tables the chariot emerged once more – a $20 supplement worth every cent not only for the matured fromage but also for accoutrements including rooftop honeycomb and the best fruit bread to ever pass my lips.
RECOMMENDED: With small portions of light French-Cal-Italian cuisine served at a leisurely pace even small appetites should find the longer menu manageable and for all but the devout vegan/vegetarian the Tortelli alla Cecilia Chiang should not be missed.
AVOID: Desserts trend weaker than savories and the take-home canele was far too spongy, particularly compared to the reference-standard version offered at Saison.
TIP: For those watching their budget a smaller three-course menu can be ordered at the bar and for others merely seeking a quick bite an a la carte plate of the Tortelli with a glass of champagne is amongst the most luxurious pairings I can think of in San Francisco…or anywhere.
Thrice thwarted in my attempts to dine at Mission Chinese Food on previous visits to The Bay area but this time calling ahead to assure no unannounced vacations or leaks it was just after noon on a Thursday when I finally visited Danny Bowien’s fabled concept within the confines of Lung Shan, the hype finally diminished with the chef now focused on conquering New York but the food, vibe, and décor more-or-less what I’d expected when I was turned away nearly three years prior. Somewhere between ethnic and hipster with shabby-chic touches beneath a festive dragon and garbled punk playing a bit too loudly it was towards the front of the restaurant that I requested to be sat and with a brief perusal of the menu my order was set – a mere twelve minutes from seating to the arrival of three plates from a service staff pleasant, though perfunctory at best. Obviously focusing on the classics for my first bites of Bowien’s cuisine it was with the “3x Cooked Bacon” that my tasting began and with a notable burn on my lips even as I avoided the whole Szechuan peppers the dish certainly shined – the pork’s saline sapor juxtaposing bitter melon as discs of rice cake soaked up an elixir of fat, aromatics, and heat. Moving next to salt cod, one of my favorite foods, served in the fashion of fried rice perhaps it was an effect of the dish that had preceded it or simply a case of inflated expectations but overall the whole plate tasted bland – a trend thankfully not carried over to the crunchy spring rolls who succeeded everywhere the rice had not as bold fish flavors played point/counterpoint with notes of smoke, saline, and sweet while raw vegetable added just enough texture to make the whole plate not only fresh, but also surprisingly light – something not exactly prominent elsewhere on the Mission Chinese menu.
RECOMMENDED: Eel Rolls, 3x Cooked Bacon
AVOID: Salt Cod Fried Rice
TIP: Seating towards the back of the restaurant is much darker, louder, and warmer than dining up front – request accordingly.
Samples – Halo Halo, Lacuma, Ube, Mango, Horchatta, Rum Raisin, Peach, Black Walnut, Dulce De Leche, Kahlua Mocha Cream, Toasted Almond
Butterscotch Marble on Chocolate Chip
Chocolate Caramel Crackle on Double Chocolate Cookies
Perhaps not as ‘artisan’ as Bi-Rite or Humphry Slocombe but likely the most iconic eating destination in San Francisco aside from Tadich and some sourdough it was largely the southerly location of Mitchell’s original scoop shop that had prevented visits on previous Bay Area vacations but with my mind finally set to the task after breakfast at Griddle Fresh my seminal visit was timely to say the least – a wide open store allowing for several samples just before a tourist group of over sixty arrived. Largely a known commodity given the commercialization of the product over the years but offering several unique Asian options along with both classics and seasonal novelties in-store it was with the nutty Lacuma that I began and progressing to Purple Yam, Mango, and Halo Halo I was duly impressed…though single bites were enough when the more “American” options came calling as the perfect complement to cookies from Pacific Cookie Company. Rather wowed by both Toasted Almond and Kahlua Mocha Cream while Horchatta, Peach, and Rum Raisin proved slightly bland it was only after a dozen small bites that I finally settled on a duo of ‘sandwiches’ and with both styles of cookie proving soft, buttery, and well crafted while hefty scoops overflowed the edges creating a proper mess I’d be hard pressed to say which was best – the answer likely residing in just how much you enjoy chocolate as the later was an intense blend of cookie, dark chocolate chips, and rich ice cream occasionally punctuated by crunchy pockets of sweet – a steal of a dessert at $3.25 each.
RECOMMENDED: Tasting everything, particularly the esoteric flavors not available elsewhere.
AVOID: Horchatta tasted like bland Snickerdoodles.
TIP: Part of several Bay Area food-tours and quite limited in space those planning a visit should be prepared to wait 30+ minutes at peak hours, though to-go pints and half-gallons are an option for those in a hurry.
Located at the edge of the Mission and Noe Valley with breakfast from 8am until three o’clock not even a (typical) delayed flight into SFO would prevent a visit to Griddle Fresh on my most recent trip to San Francisco, the restaurant’s signature soufflé-style pancakes the lone ‘to-do’ list omission on my previous trip to the Bay Area. Small and narrow with the kitchen offset right it was to a quarter-filled space that I arrived on Thursday morning and with menus already in place for self-seating it would be mere moments before I was greeted by a young woman, apparently an owner, who not only took my order but also functioned as server, busser, and consistent source of hot coffee throughout my hour-long stay. Open and airy despite its small size and pleasantly minimalistic in décor it was with little effort that I made my selections and opting to dine in two courses I began with the pancakes – in a word, ethereal and easily the lightest pancake I’ve ever experienced with a thin ‘skin’ similar to the top layer of a soufflé overlying cavernous pockets of smooth mascarpone with rich vanilla curd to balance intensely sweet bananas atop. With pancakes large in portion but slight on the stomach it was onward to the French Toast that my meal progressed and although perfectly ‘fine’ with good bread griddled golden the composition simply could not live up to its predecessor – a tall order for sure, but one that would inspire me to order the lemon ricotta pancakes as a second course were I to visit again.
RECOMMENDED: You are here for the soufflé pancakes, obviously.
AVOID: Ordering anything as a follow-up to the soufflé pancakes. It will disappoint, no matter how good.
TIP: With a partially open kitchen those who are sensitive to temperatures would be best served to request seating accordingly as tables close to the kitchen window are subject to the effects of a hot griddle.
Strawberry Fluffy Snow with Mochi, Egg Pudding, and Condensed Milk
Caramel Milk Tea with Boba
Still sated despite the fact that dinner had ended nearly three hours prior but in a celebratory mood after The Kings Double-OT stunner in Game 2 of The Stanley Cup Finals it was largely a matter of convenience that led me to Easy Life Boba Tea, the small storefront a resident of my ‘to do’ list ever since a January visit to now-shuttered 9 on the Plate. Purportedly open until 10:00pm on Saturdays but seemingly abandoned with chairs atop tables on my arrival it was not until I hollered “Hello” that a small woman emerged from the back and although quick to explain in a deterrent tone that orders after 9:30 were only offered to go I not only persisted but also doubled down, a yelp check-in shaving 50% off my second item with a total tally of $8.54 for an order taken curbside to enjoy. Admittedly a novice but happy to experiment at such a low cost it was with sips of Easy Life’s caramel flavored milk tea that my tasting began and with pearls of boba channeling up the thick straw amidst creamy liquid only modestly sweet I was modestly surprised, an opinion even more befitting a container of summer-fresh fluffy snow far lighter than that at Snowflake Shavery finding textural counterpoints in dense egg custard, whimsical mochi, and a light drizzle of condensed milk…the only bad taste of the evening delivered as I walked back to my car only to see a group of four Asian twenty-somethings seated at a table inside eating fluffy snow with the same young server who’d just sent me to the streets.
RECOMMENDED: The Strawberry Fluffy Ice is quite good and very light.
AVOID: Arriving after 9:30pm, apparently…or perhaps something else I’ll not touch on here.
TIP: Yelp users save 50% on their second item, check-in and take advantage.
Located adjacent to the Sports Book at MGM featuring a clever menu crafted by Steve Barr the newly minted TAP Sports Bar seemed a good spot to meet with friends old and new for Game 2 of The Stanley Cup Finals and aside from a slight delay in seating incurred due to The Belmont Stakes I’d be hard pressed to name a better night of this ilk, a double overtime come-from-behind win for Los Angeles matched with great conversation and food that ranged from average to excellent at a wallet friendly price-point for The Strip. Expansive in size with diverse seating options flanking a central bar as televisions and memorabilia decorate the walls the TAP experience is truly a sportcentric one as a well-trained staff of jersey-clad severs circulate to the sounds of the game as opposed to some hideous Journey ballad generated via Touchtunes and although both food and beer menus trend small the selections themselves prove both unique and well-culled. Clearly featuring a West Coast bias amongst its patrons and showing the NHL on every screen it was with a trio of beers and five appetizers that our meal began and with cheese as a theme it was actually the meaty chili in a bowl of buttery cornbread that impressed most and although I’m told the Onion Soup was quite bad both pretzels and herbaceous curds proved competent while man n’ cheese bites were surprisingly light and rife with sharp cheddar. Moving next to main courses after a near-hour lull it was in a quartet of options that we invested and although the open-face sandwich was delivered both dry and cool to the touch while thinly pounded pork proved far inferior to that at Hash-House-a-Go-Go it would be difficult to find fault in either the smoky Sloppy Joe atop one of the city’s best buns or the innovative Corned Beef-style short rib with ample spicing and meat literally falling off the bone. With more beers, more chat, and a Gaborik goal tying the game it was finally in desserts that we indulged and although none of the options are prone to wow on the level of those at Lagasse’s Stadium both the Guinness Shake and substantial brownie were plenty rich enough to share while the deep fried s’mores and sidecar of fudge are an indulgent mess well worth making.
RECOMMENDED: Chili in Cornbread Bowl, Corned Beef Short Ribs, Sloppy Joe, Fried S’mores.
AVOID: Onion Soup, Open Face Sandwich
TIP: Limited reservations are available with walk-ins accounting for more than 65% of seating and with no time limits or ‘minimum orders’ patrons are welcome to stay for as long as they choose. For those looking for guaranteed seating during a given event advanced planning is recommended.
Pimp my Bruschetta – Mushrooms and Brie with onion and tarragon, Tomato and Mozzarella with basil and red pepper flake, Grilled Haloumi Cheese with Sauteed Grapes
Monte Cristo with Sweet Potato Chips
Dirty Brownie with Fudge, Dried Cherry, Cream Cheese Swirls
French Toasted Bread Pudding with warm Caramel
Located inside Antiques at the Market and bolstering its Williamsburg-hipster credentials with a name like Truffles n Bacon Café I’ll be the first to admit that I entered Jackie Lim’s tiny restaurant as a skeptic but with a selection of specials equally well crafted as those on an exemplary daily menu I emerged a believer; sentiments that even steamy temperatures, amateur service, and a room-full of needy Red Hats couldn’t thwart. Based on the concept of accessible decadence and tucked away in a cozy corner with cute décor it was just past noon when I arrived at Truffles n Bacon and invited to seat myself after self serving the first of several cups of water menus were presented, a thin young man with odd mannerisms butchering pronunciations while more senior servers attended to a private party at the storefront window. Every bit living up to its café credentials with a crafted menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, and small plates it was with some remorse that I passed over options like the Mac n’ Cheese and Bacon Jam spiked sandwiches but focusing first on a duo of appetizers I was immediately free of regret, the small $2 scone a textbook example pocketed with butter and apricots while all three rounds of bruschetta proved bold and balanced, the saline-sweetness of the haloumi and grape composition particularly enthralling. Moving next to things more substantial suffice it to say that with housemade preserves gilding the proverbial lily one should pay close attention to the buttery brioche enveloped ‘Monte Cristo’ whose lack of deep frying renders it particularly light – a matter of particular importance to those with smaller appetites as no one should leave Truffles n Bacon without ordering dessert, the decadent wedge of dark chocolate brownie still molten at its core while two batons of vanilla custard laden bread pudding were treated to a high-temperature sear rendering the exterior caramelized as insides presented hot, jiggly, and amongst the city’s very best desserts.
RECOMMENDED: Any of the baked goods, particularly the bread pudding.
AVOID: If I wanted to nitpick I guess the sweet potato chips weren’t as crisp as I’d have preferred.
TIP: Not only are daily specials truly ‘special’ but with every item including sides made in-house daily quantities are limited, the sweet potato chips and customer favorite Green Hulk sandwich both sold out by the time I left at 1:15pm.
Strawberry Shortcake French Toast – Lemon Poppy Seed Bread dipped in Vanilla Custard, Griddled, with Strawberries, Whipped Cream, and Strawberry Sauce
Located in Luxor, a casino I’ve not visited since establishing residence in Las Vegas, Pyramid Café was one of those All-Hours diners that I knew I’d eventually visit and with a friend and fellow blogger happy to meet up for an early breakfast the opportunity finally presented, a long walk through the parking lot and a short one through the casino landing us a table overlooking the expansive gaming floor where a craps table was already getting rowdy…or perhaps still rowdy from the night before. Sprawling in size and comfortably spaced with a menu chock-a-block full of clever twists on breakfast favorites both sweet and savory it was to the pleasant service of a woman named Debbie that we were greeted and with the meal divided into two courses comprised of five items, including one from the mid-day menu, plus copious refills of coffee rarely would any part of the experience falter – a ninety minute visit tallying $65 all-in for one of the Strip’s more innovative breakfasts. Starting slightly savory before progressing to things far sweeter it was with the duo of three thin Red Velvet pancakes gussied up by tangy cream cheese icing and a custardy masterpiece of a Monte Cristo with fresh strawberry preserves that the meal began and although biscuits and hash browns proved somewhat uninspired as optional sides portions of each proved ample for the price. Opting next to explore the section entitled “French Toast and Waffles” with a pair of the former the plates that arrived would prove even more impressive than round one; both “breads” actually sliced cakes dipped in custard and griddled golden, the carrot lacking much vegetable but rich with spice while the tangy poppy seed version served as base to the unbridled flavor of fresh strawberries in a dessert-come-breakfast take on a summertime favorite that should not be missed.
RECOMMENDED: Strawberry Shortcake French Toast, Monte Cristo
AVOID: Biscuits were dry and griddle marks indicate possibly rewarmed.
TIP: Offering breakfast all day with the lunch menu starting at 11am most of the items from the latter can be accommodated earlier, all you have to do is ask.
Born in Las Vegas and since spread across the United States it was not until a co-worker’s birthday went unnoticed by the administration that I finally satisfied my curiosity regarding Nothing Bundt Cakes, a quick drive to the West Sahara flagship procuring an 8” Chocolate Chocolate Chip for the celebration and four $4 ‘individuals’ for my own personal taste testing. Originally opened by longtime friends Dena and Debra just as I was finishing high-school and now following a calculated plan of expansion through franchising it was just shy of 5 o’clock on Friday that I entered the expansive storefront and with clever gifts plus endless options for customization abound I attempted to take my time to browse, a small clerk slightly irksome in her repeated interruptions, though well intended I’m sure. Cute and quaint without seeming ‘cutesy’ or twee – a down-home feel befitting the ten flavors of rounded cakes – it was perhaps five minutes and a half-dozen customers that separated my entry from my order and rebuffed in my inquiry of what was best by “everything is good” lipservice I went with my gut – a light bite of seasonal strawberry cake harkening angel-food in consistency accompanying me out the door and each flavor to follow showing strongly beneath buttered cream cheese frosting rivaling the best I’ve experienced. Artisan in many regards but readily admitting the use of artificial flavors without tossing about superlatives of ‘organic’ or ‘cage-free’ it was with the coffee-cake harkening “Marble” that my tasting began and with rich cinnamon swirls proving an amicable bridge to spicy, dense Carrot Cake I could not help but smile even as Red Velvet proved slightly dry – a mistake not replicated by the complex flavors of smoky candied pecans atop a pudding-come-cake that could very well replace a King Cake in next Mardi Gras.
RECOMMENDED: Carrot Cake, Pecan Praline
AVOID: Red Velvet…and licking the frosting off the inside of the containers even though you’ll want to.
TIP: With four sizes of cake available and all manners of decorations plus seasonal flavors that vary by store those planning in advance would be well served to call ahead; bucolic as they may be I saw a bundt all gussied up for a child’s birthday party that looked every bit as special as something from Freed’s behind the counter.
Rustic Semolina Bread with Butter, Olive Oil, Balsamic
Country Style Pate with Blackberry Conserva, Foraged Greens and Cotica
Warm Tripe “alla” Romana with Charred Bread
Pork Trotter Ravioli with Lilie Ragu and Chive Blossoms
Beef Cheek Ravioli with Black Truffles and Crushed Duck Liver
Rabbit Porchetta with Carrot Sformato, Sunflower Sprouts and Crispy Confit
Lamb Saddle with Baby Artichoke Crema and English Peas
Chocolate Budino with Warm Chocolate Sauce
Fresh Grilled Peaches with Roast Peach Sorbet and Mascarpone
Petit Fours
Double Espresso on Ice
First experiencing Mario Batali’s cuisine on an off-chance reservation at Babbo during a fateful trip to Manhattan in June of 2008, where the Chef and his team delivered a memorable respite from life’s unpleasant moments, and having since dined at several Batali & Bastianich establishments from coast-to-coast it surprises me even as I write these words that it took me so long to visit Venetian mainstay B&B Ristorante – a pre-theater four-course dinner with a friend again proving the restaurateur’s abilities to source the finest people and ingredients for his ever expanding empire. Clearly influenced by his famous space on Waverly Place, both in design and in offerings, but differing slightly in vibe as a dimly lit room with R.E.M. playing gently overhead was complimented by lovely service from a young woman named Kelly our meal began with the staple-amuse of tender, spiced chickpeas on crisp bread and with proper bread service replenished frequently thereafter not a single bite of the food that followed would prove short of exemplary. Eschewing lighter ‘spring’ flavors in favor of signatures until later in the meal our first course arrived with creamy pate of pork delivering plenty of spice and sapor while tender tripe compensated for its small portion with textbook texture and complex aromatics – a trend carried over to each $26 plate of pasta; the raviolis averaging approximately $4 each but so delicate, stuffed, and well sauced that it hardly seemed to matter until the plate was wiped spotless with plans to return for the pasta tasting menu swirling my mind. Transitioning smoothly to things more substantial it would be an exercise in futility to determine whether the rich, caramelized-yet-rare spring lamb over smoky artichoke puree or the nutty roulade of rabbit with flan of carrots was a superior secondi and finishing with dessert both the simple peach presentation and an atypical soufflé-style budino showed the pastry kitchen’s prowess – a Babboesque box of petit fours and a double espresso sending us to theater with full bellies and broad smiles.
FOUR STARS: Obviously prone to complaints of discrepancy in price-to-portion ratio for “Italian food” that many claim to be offered at a better value from their local mom n’ pop joint a meal at B&B Ristorante is better taken as a “Fine dining” event rather than any regional cuisine – not only does the sourcing, preparation, and presentation deserve it but so does the service. Certainly not a cheap meal as the average diner is unlikely to exit for less than a Benjamin suffice it to say that for a ‘celebrity chef’ meal on The Strip B&B delivers where many mail it in, a similar sentiment applicable to Palazzo’s Carnevino, though the latter is ever so slightly a better ‘experience.’
RECOMMENDED: Everything we ordered was reference standard, but for those focused on value the secondi are where to invest at nearly every Batali restaurant I’ve been lucky enough to visit. For those willing to spend for quality, ravioli and other filled pastas are amongst the best in the country.
AVOID: Filling up on the bread…though It is really quite delicious and mandatory for wiping up sauces.
TIP: Pasta tastings, traditional tastings, and prix-fixe are available for those eyeing variety as a solo but much like other restaurants of this ilk those who are happy to share are benefitted by the more diverse offerings a la carte.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Pineapple Tofu / Chocolate Decadence / Strawberry Cheesecake / Chocolate Oreo Mousse / Individual Apple Pie Tart
Pandan Tiramisu
Pecan Tart
Crème Caramel
Referred to as a “crown jewel” by its new executive chef and purporting a “feast for the Gods” a visit to Caesars’ Bacchanal Buffet comes with certain self-appointed expectations and although prices have crept upward since the sprawling space opened to the public I can only say that my $47.50 Saturday Brunch, complete with bottomless champagne, was worth every cent. Grand in both scope and spectacle with ornate glass, open floorplans, and plush seating complimented by a staff of over twelve-dozen overseeing preparation, service, and customer needs my arrival at Bacchanal shortly preceded its 8am opening and greeted first by a cheerful cashier, then by assistant manager Stephanie, my experience commenced; the subsequent three hours adrift in 70+ of the buffet’s offerings and a sea of smiles emanating from each employee and nearly every patron. Divided into several sections with many offering cooked-to-order options including crepes and omelets it was Asian that my meal began and with fresh steamer baskets just opened the dim sum excelled – a small quibble in the thick-skinned har gow more than compensated by bao, duck and pork as good as that at Jasmine plus full-service congee complete with century egg, not to mention Sin City’s best Egg Custard Tart later discovered at the dessert island. Moving next to things more “American,” one is well advised to monitor for items fresh from the kitchen as both the crunchy waffles and well seasoned chicken proved superlative while later tastes of waffle fries and tots fell flat – a fresh buttermilk biscuit, hot seafood preparations, and sliced meats including smoky beef ribs with caramelized crunch all showing far better. At times a touch liberal in salt with Kung Pao Chicken and Risotto suffering the most, Bacchanal again shines in selections of shellfish, cheese, and charcuterie but with much eating to do and such things widely available elsewhere it was thoroughly in my sweet tooth that I indulged and although I passed up a few cookies plus a duo of sorbet suffice it to say that I nearly ran the gamut; cakes, doughnuts, pies, tarts, and more all justifying the calories with the aforementioned egg custard, pecan pie, cream puff, carrot cake, and citrus ‘tiramisu’ all warranting special mention along with the lovely pastry team who jovially tended to baking, saucing, arranging, and making crepes at a pace seldom to lull.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Slightly more expensive than Wicked Spoon but making up the difference in complimentary champagne there are things to love about both of Las Vegas’ premier all-you-can-eat experiences yet aside from a more expansive gelato case and my predilection to The Cosmopolitan’s soundtrack I’d be hard-pressed to ever recommend it over Bacchanal. Obviously limited by the constraints intrinsic to feeding anywhere from 2500 to 4500 persons in a given day yet defying the odds through a combination of remarkable customer service and striking attention to detail I’m happy to say that Bacchanal lives up to the liberally applied superlatives and although “Gods” may require something slightly more refined I’m almost positive they won’t find it in such a format for less than $50, especially on Las Vegas Boulevard.
RECOMMENDED: Roasted Duck, Crispy Spicy Cod, Chicken and Waffles, Lobster Biscuits and Gravy, Egg Custard Tart, Beef Rib, Congee, Pecan Pie, Cream Puff, Carrot Cake, Padan Tiramisu.
AVOID: Risotto, Kung Pao Chicken, Bear Claw, Breakfast Burrito, anything that looks as though it has been sitting longer than a half-hour.
TIP: Early arrival is recommended as waits stretch past an hour after 9:30am, though a ticketing system that dispenses return-time ‘reservations’ helps to mitigate a true ‘line.’ Fans of specific items would be best served to call in advance as new items frequently displace older ones and the menu undergoes wholesale change seasonally, four times a year.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
American Caviar, Buckwheat Waffle, Chive Crème Fraiche/ Tuna Poke with Mango in a Squid Ink Cone/Foie Gras Profitterole with Asian Pear/King Crab Legs/Assorted Sushi
Lobster Pot Pie
Sweet and Sour Chili Crab/Chinese Donuts
Lobster Benedict/Traditional Benedict/Banana-Nutella French Toast/Red Velvet Waffle with Cream Cheese Frosting
Pear Almond Tart/Apple Tart/Pound Cake with Golden Raisin/Zucchini Bread/Almond Berry Financier/ Chocolate Profitterole/Raspberry Profitterole/Vanilla Profitterole/Coffee Gelee with Almond Cake and Cheesecake Mousse
Assorted Cheeses/Dried Fruits/Glazed Nuts/Date Bread/Dark Chocolate Truffle/White Chocolate Coconut Truffle/Milk Chocolate Truffle/Giadujia Truffle/Raspberry Pate de Fruits/Apricot Pate de Fruits/ Foie Gras Profitterole with Asian Pear
Crème Brulee/Tiramisu Mochi/Strawberry Mochi/White Chocolate Rice Crispy Treat/Milk Chocolate Brownie/Dark Chocolate Strawberry/Coffee Gelee with Almond Cake and Cheesecake Mousse
Espresso Gelato with Milk Chocolate Marshmallows, White Chocolate Rice Crispy Treat, Fudge
Chocolate Covered Strawberry/Chocolate Profitterole/Vanilla Profitterole/Figs/Glazed Nuts/Fresh Fruits/Banana-Nutella French Toast
Coming off a truly unexpected experience at Wicked Spoon just one week prior and with a long holiday weekend at my disposal it was with high hopes that I waltzed through the Bellagio conservatory en route to a meal nearly four years overdue on my expansive ‘to-do’ list – a Sunday afternoon at the upscale Cantonese restaurant Jasmine for “Fountains Brunch.” Considered by many to be one of the best buffets in the city and housed in a breathtaking room where floor-to-ceiling windows joyously exploit the twice-hourly water-dance outside it was to the left of the ornately decorated space that I found myself sat and with lightly roasted coffee adding $4.50 to the base $58 my meal began, a tableside pastry tower presented from my server whose interactions would otherwise prove perfunctory at best. Small in size but diverse in selections with steamer tables, chilled sections, prep-to-order, and a whole room of desserts it was with Asian options that I began and with sliced to order Peking Duck on warm bao the star of the show both dim sum and crab soup would show equally well while congee proved mealy and flavorless leading me to overlook the noodle station in favor of things more unique. Focused next on cold tables it was in exotic ingredients and iced shellfish that Jasmine hoped to justify its pricetag and although the King Crab was fine while foie gras pastry proved addicting the sushi, cheeses, charcuterie, and salads were rather pedestrian – a toothsome muesli better fitting as dessert a rare exception to the rule. Moving through more “American” selections including a decadent pot pie, two delicious benedicts, and casserole-style French Toast imbued with banana and Nutella while quickly discarding flaccid waffles and dried out breakfast breads it was finally in sweets that nearly everything excelled – a well culled selection from which I nearly sampled the gamut – a Jean Phillipe’s gelato station, perfect puffs of choux, and DIY fondue all receiving repeat visits with Asian pastries decidedly conspicuous in their absence. Undoubtedly a special space but maligned by service faux-pas necessitating requests for refills plus clean utensils suffice it to say that although ‘luxe’ in many ways a brunch at Jasmine does not come cheap and while some items shined none but the duck was on par with Wing-Lei’s Chinese New Year while neither service nor selection were equal to Wicked Spoon which rings in at nearly half the price after tax, tip, and drinks.
THREE STARS: Comfortably showing the kitchen’s talents with upscale Cantonese cuisine while struggling with service issues as relates to both the table and more time-sensitive food presentations Jasmine’s Fountains Brunch takes full advantage of the Bellagio’s prime real estate by charging a premium for a few culinary gems amongst an otherwise middling cast. Certainly a special meal and one I’m glad to have finally experienced I cannot say I’ll be rushing back anytime soon, but I also would not rule out a dinner visit for the future as the duck was truly excellent and the walnut prawns look tempting as well.
RECOMMENDED: Peking Duck Bao, Profitteroles, Gelato and Chocolate Fondue Stations, Sweet and Sour Chili Crab, Mango and Papaya Infused Muesli, Steamed Dim Sum
AVOID: Red Velvet Waffles, Congee, Laminated Pastry, Breakfast Breads
TIP: Unlike Wicked Spoon all beverages are served at additional costs and most of these seem excessive, the $4.50 coffee appearing as a French Press though in reality a simple pot of drip. For those desiring an up-close view of the fountains it is advised to call at least 2 weeks in advance and to request a spot on the lower level – far from the buffet and bathed in the sun with an unobstructed view.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Sweet Potato Fries with Cinnamon Sugar Dipping Sauce
Emeril’s Banana Cream Pie – Graham Cracker Crust, Caramel Sauce, Chocolate Shavings, Whipped Cream
New Orleans Bread and Butter Pudding – Whiskey Crème Anglaise, Whipped Cream
My history with Emeril Lagasse dates back as far as my interests in fine dining, a meal at his eponymous Orlando restaurant serving as a gift to my mother long before I had the finances or background to explore things more extravagant, and as much as years have passed while palates have evolved the quirky celebrity chef has always held a place in my heart – a Saturday evening visit to his branded Stadium and Sports Book again proving his recipes despite limitations of venue and service. Chosen for dinner during Kings vs. Blackhawks Game 3 it was with friends that I found myself seated on the Strip-side patio of The Palazzo property and with low tables arranged around individual LCDs as a sub-60 degree cross-breeze rendered things quite chilly our meal progressed in three courses, the plates themselves thankfully arriving from the white toques of the kitchen while beverage refills and service languished at the hands of unapologetically undertrained staff. Formerly visited as Jay-Z’s 40/40 Club many years prior and largely unchanged in theme or décor since it was MMA and NBA that dominated the warmer indoor seating and admittedly a bit perturbed to begin my mood soon changed as Los Angeles took the lead and food began to arrive, an opening volley of creamy $10 Artichoke Dip and an $18 golden disc spot-on for the flavors of NOLA’s signature sandwich both delicious and big enough to share. Shying away from items like shrimp and grits previously experienced at other Emeril locales round two of the meal continued the bar-food trend and while the liver on the burger was overcooked and meager the patty, fries, and aioli all shined – a compliment even more befitting the juicy fried chicken whose crunchy batter and hefty spice profile rival the best in the Valley. Ever happy to indulge in dessert, even after the sinful frosting-paired sweet potato fries, it was midway into the third period that I finally placed an order and arriving just as the horn sounded the meal ended just as it did over ten years prior – an ethereal bread pudding rife with vanilla and booze alongside a slice of the Banana Cream Pie equally responsible for building an empire as the word Bam!
THREE STARS: With an estimated capacity of over a thousand and a functional sports book on the floor Lagasse’s Stadium is best taken as elevated bar food and those entering with such expectations are likely to be rewarded. Featuring private rooms, pool tables, arcade games, and private tables for VIPs the strip upcharge is nowhere near as evident here as one would anticipate but with pricy beers and a per person minimum that varies by event don’t expect a BW3s tab either.
AVOID: Truffle Fries were oily and limp, foie gras upcharge was decidedly not worth it on an already good burger.
TIP: Seating near the doors, either inside or out, predisposes to a rather nasty cross-wind that left both our party and our food chilly. Calling in advance is recommended as different sports receive prime viewing and volume in different parts of the restaurant.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Tamago Burger – furikake, teriyaki and wasabi mayo, finished with crispy onion strings and a fried egg
Jazz Fries – Togarashi-garlic fries with brown gravy and ‘crack sauce’
Barbeque Duck and Pork combo
Unknown to the reservations department at Caesars’ and inciting an “I don’t believe it is open yet” when I contacted The Linq concierge suffice it to say that the “Asian Nightmarket”-inspired F.A.M.E. quietly opened to the public on Friday and having stopped in to see the space then I returned the next day just after the doors opened at 11am to give it a taste, my seventy-minute visit curated by the expansive venue’s two owners while a young, energetic staff buzzed around explaining the concept to curious customers. Not only new but decidedly nontraditional in its format with several stations encompassing stir-fry, soups, dim-sum, BBQ, Thai, Korean, Chinese Take-Out, and the first stationary Fukuburger it should be expected that F.A.M.E. is not yet firing on all cylinders – Beard Papa, boba, in-house pastry, and Fochun upstairs coming soon – but with full meals unlikely to top $15/pp and hours extending to 2am the concept is already poised to make waves as nearly everything I tasted was quite good. Beginning first with a few bites of chicken – a trio of karaage, ‘bourban,’ and orange – I was immediately impressed by the crunchy sapor of the first while the last was a touch too sweet and moving next through a basket of juicy shumai my attention turned to the ‘truck,’ my first Fukuburger moist and rich even before being gilded with a slightly overcooked egg and punchy accoutrements. Rarely impressed by potatoes but finding the crispy ‘jazz’ fries quite addicting as I chatted with the team about the upcoming “art, music, and entertainment” it was just prior to noon when my final plate arrived and with both duck and pork crispy yet supple beneath a touch of acid-sweet sauce I immediately swooned, a $12 plate worth the drive from Spring Mountain to The Strip as opposed to the other way around.
THREE AND A HALF STARS (Tentative): As ambitious a concept as any on The Strip today it is somewhat difficult to ‘rate’ the concept of F.A.M.E. in its yet-complete state but assessing the premise and execution thus far along with the teams’ passion the potential is undoubtedly here to do great things. Still far from its promise of 120+ items available at any one time it will be interesting to see how the execution stands up but with shockingly low prices given the location it is relatively low risk to give it a look – and come back once the full project is realized.
RECOMMENDED: Barbeque Duck, Barbeque Pork, Jazz Fries
AVOID: Orange Chicken was too sweet and while I ‘get’ the Chinese Take-Out station it simply doesn’t strike me as anything better or worse than PF Changs; something I’m not wasting time or calories on regardless of locale.
TIP: With Nevada’s first Beard Papa opening soon the team is currently working to establish an in-house pastry program as well. Supposedly French leaning in a manner akin to Suzuya one can only hope the Asian inspiration may also give way to more traditional items like that at 85degrees…or perhaps Sin City’s first truly excellent egg-custard tart.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Homemade Bread Pudding with Pecan Praline sauce a la mode
Cinnamon Roll French Toast
Traditional Bear Claw
Apple Pie
Unbeknownst to me a regional chain with over sixty locations throughout California and parts east an early morning stop at Black Bear Diner was prompted not only by a convenient location and inviting menu, but also by the promise of a ‘dinner and a show’ – in this case the traveling “Chainsaws for Change” crew cleaving blocks of wood into all sorts of shapes while I partook in a four part breakfast…plus a couple items to go. Kitsch in décor with a pervasive log cabin theme speckled by bears both stuffed and carved it was to the tunes of the Four Tops that I entered Black Bear Diner and greeted first by a host behind the small pastry case and then by my server, Ray, the morning progressed in two courses with countless cups of coffee, the carving action outside visible through the windows while I dined. Starting sweet and progressing sweeter it was to the flavor of custard-rich, ice cream crowned bread pudding that the meal began and rife with caramel, pecans, and raisins the steamy block proved surprisingly light while a duo of fresh baked breads with whipped butter and honey proved equally well done; the $0.99 cornbread toothsome and buttery while the $2.39 biscuit was so fluffy it literally flaked apart to the tooth. Working slowly through the trio as wood chips flew it was only after the pudding was polished off that Ray put in my order for round-two and arriving piping hot the quartered cinnamon roll dressed in eggy batter and fried golden was superb, a light drizzle of cream cheese frosting mingling with the surprise of pure maple syrup into pure decadence – the sort of dish best taken with milk or coffee…and perhaps even better, shared. At this point taking my leave and settling the bill it was with two additional items that I exited the cozy confines of the Black Bear and saving them until hours later suffice it to say that it was with some disappointment that I found the signature bear claw’s pastry poorly laminated around pasty nut filling while the requested “Cinnamon Apple Bavarian Cream Pie” had been substituted by a standard, albeit delicious, traditional Apple Pie with a glossy butter crust instead – next time I guess I’ll just have to enjoy all three courses at the table instead.
THREE STARS: Somehow channeling the feel of a locals place despite being a chain while providing both food and service reminiscent of weekend breakfasts during my Midwest childhood Black Bear Diner is the sort of place every city needs and by stepping up both the novelty of the menu and the atmosphere of the space it provides a better value on the dollar than most in the family friendly comfort food genre.
RECOMMENDED: Bread Pudding, Cinnamon Roll French Toast.
AVOID: Bear Claw – far too pricey at $4.59.
TIP: Joining the E-club will net you a free Bear Claw and cup of coffee, but be aware that the email takes 24-48 hours to process. As a chain, the restaurant also offers nutritional facts on the website (and in a clever newspaper on the table)…suffice it to say I wasn’t counting calories.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
