French Fried French Toast with Strawberries and Condensed Milk Syrup
Belgian Waffle with Strawberries and Whipped Cream
Kentucky Bread Pudding with bourbon glaze and French Vanilla Ice Cream
Old Fashioned Carrot Cake
Targeting a trio of stops before heading northeast to Tampa, Wednesday morning began as one of only two occupied tables at 24/7 Eleventh Street Diner and seated in a cornerpocket booth amidst the shiny silver space breakfast was a carbohydrate heavy feast of questionable value considering the quality of the food, though the service and setting were a whole lot of fun.
Unabashedly ‘old-school’ with an all-day menu of diner favorites, breakfasts, pastry case desserts, and the sort of coffee that has been sitting on the burner for far too long, it was with menus in hand and a caricature laden placemat in place that the experience on the corner of Washington and 11th began and although several interesting appetizers and desserts called out the eventual order entailed a quartet of plates, all arriving simultaneously despite the fact that two were pre-made – an understandable decision, it seems, as those two were technically ‘desserts.’
Rapid fire from the kitchen and quick to refill water as acrid coffee caused regret for a wasted $2.50 it was only fifteen minutes after seating that plates arrived and setting aside an exceedingly small slice of Carrot Cake that proved underwhelming to focus on more temperature-sensitive options both the crispy malted waffle and the block of dense, lukewarm bread pudding proved run-of-the-mill – good but nothing to write home about, particularly given the price.
Moving next to the reason Eleventh Street had originally been targeted for breakfast, suffice it to say that the “French Fried” French Toast was exactly as decadent as it would seem and with soft, eggy bread standing up well to lightly sweetened custard followed by a dip in the deep fryer the only thing holding back the plate was the small packs of Kraft “Pancake Syrup” – the worst of the worst artificial maple products entirely eschewed making me wish the application of condensed milk syrup had been a bit more liberal, though the sliced seasonal strawberries admittedly complimented the golden, crisp Challah quite well.
Progressing north from Lucali for a slightly more downscale finish to four nights of eating in Miami it was just prior to 8:30pm that our trio entered La Esquina del Lechon and although the kitchen was due to close at nine o’clock no less than a half-dozen parties would follow, the dining room nearly half full when the friendly front of house staff began turning folks away, instead focusing on proving a truly excellent experience to those fortunate enough to already be eating some of the best roast pork I’ve been fortunate enough to taste.
Every bit an off-the-map space, all the way up in Doral, with most options featuring roast meats and items spanning from Cuba to Latin America as a décor heavy with pigs smiles from around the room it was mere moments after taking a seat that menus were presented and before an order was even placed water was filled and a bread basket loaded with warm rolls and crispy pork rinds arrived, the later a generous portion of greaseless fried nuggets that were delicious on their own but all the better with La Esquina’s Mango Hot Sauce drizzled on top.
Eventually making tough decisions given limited stomach capacity despite a menu from which nearly every plate sounded quite good it was a mere fifteen minutes after placing our orders that a trio of plates arrived, the quesadillas chock-a-block full of smoky chicken and cheese with creamy avocado in a sidecar while a duo of ‘small’ sandwiches proved to be anything but, the toasty housemade bread lightly sweet around a trio of meats and melted Swiss for the Cubano while the signature pan con Lechon was an umami-laden masterpiece of tender roast pork juxtaposing caramelized onions and crispy pork skin with sweet notes of citrus perfuming the palate with each bite.
At this point happily sated but unable and unwilling to pass on a case of desserts from which I only wish I could have sampled more it was alongside a creamy refresher of Café con Leche that sweets were enjoyed and although the stick-a-spoon-up-straight rice pudding was reference standard stuff with cinnamon added to taste the Tres Leches was undoubtedly the best I’ve tasted to date, each saturated bite of buttercake impressively rich beneath heavy cream frosting as a pool of condensed milk added additional sweetness at the bottom of the plate.
Plain Pie – Hand Crushed Tomatoes, Bufala Mozzarella, Basil, Olive Oil
Lucali Special Imported Italian Artichokes baked in sauce, Bufala Mozzarella, and Peccorino
Dessert Calzone – Honey Ricotta, Nutella
Fortunate to have snagged one of the limited seats at Mark Iacono’s Brooklyn original, where I experienced the best pizza I’ve tasted to date, it was with almost inappropriately high expectations that we entered Lucali’s new Miami location on Tuesday evening at 5:00pm but finding the dining room almost identical in décor despite its slightly larger size I’m happy to say that the product emerging from the hand-built oven is a nearly spot-on iteration of the original while service may as well have been imported direct from Carroll Gardens.
At first a bit apprehensive that the expansion experience could not possibly live up to the legend lingering in my head from the March 2011 Pizza-Trek it was just as the restaurant opened its patio doors that our trio entered the romantically lit space and with wood tones dominating as Frank, Dean, and Sammy crooned overhead it was at a four-top large enough for six that we sat, a brief menu of appetizers expanding on New York’s Pizza and Calzone-only options and leading to a three-part order, each item cooked to order in the wood burning oven stoked by a team of two in back.
Unable to decide between a trio of starters it was at the advice of our server that the meal began with a duo of tender marinated artichokes baked in Lucali’s signature sauce and draped simply with fresh Mozzarella and a dusting of briny Peccorino both the flavors and textures were brilliant, the light smokiness of the oven giving me hope for the “Plain Pie” to come – a $24 masterpiece of lightly charred crust with smoky blisters surrounding a center that was not quite ‘wet’ and as such more than capable of being eaten by hand with a simple fold, the flavor indistinguishable from the Lucali of my memories and equally wowing to tablemates taking their first taste of Iacono’s legendary pie.
Unable to resist dessert, something not offered amidst the cozy New York confines, it was between cannoli, Nutella pizza, and calzone that we were left to decide and again deferring to the front of house with an eye toward more dining to follow it was in the creamy calzone that we invested our faith, the oven’s smoke this time serving to accentuate lightly sweetened ricotta as a drizzle of hazelnut and cocoa added richness making the sizeable pocket a dish best shared.
Clam and Lobster Fritters – Bacon, Corn, Spicy Cocktail Sauce
Coconut Shrimp – Holler Back Sauce
Three Select Stone Crab Claws with Warm Mustard Sauce, Creamed Spinach, Smashed Squash
Lobster Macaroni and Cheese – Vermont White Cheddar, Asiago Crumbs
Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes with Green Tomato and Caper Remoulade
Skinny Fried Sweets Dusted with Cinnamon Sugar
Half-Slice Key Lime Pie
Chocolate Pecan Pie a la Mode
Bread Pudding with Maple Bourbon Caramel Sauce and a scoop of Graeter’s Vanilla Ice Cream
No longer located only in Miami it was still with much intrigue that I entered Joe’s Stone Crab and having intentionally avoided the Vegas location at Caesars’ Forum Shoppes in order to preserve the integrity of a first visit to the original the decision proved to be a good one, the 1913 dining room at 11 Washington Ave offering a stellar lunch during the peak of stone crab season with service on par with that of several Michelin starred restaurants in Europe.
Obviously offering an upscale experience compared to locations elsewhere, to the point that shorts and t-shirts are frowned upon in the main dining area, arrival at Joe’s begins at the Valet and with a young man holding the doors it was not long before we stood before a suited man at the podium, a walk-in for three not a problem at noon on a weekday with a choice of tables offered, the group electing to sit indoors on the left side of the expansive space – away from the din of the business lunch crowd.
Obviously local and seasonal simply by the nature of a restaurant that actually closes during off-season it was to a menu of signatures and fresh seafood specials that we were greeted on seating and although happy to splurge when necessary a lunch special of three select claws, sides, and a half-slice of key lime pie for $42.95 was simply impossible to ignore – each claw plum and fresh, perfect on its own as I eschewed the mustard sauce and instead focused on the sweet protein alongside naturally sweet squash and creamy spinach, both as good as it gets for traditional steakhouse sides.
Getting a bit ahead of myself, it should be noted that the meal actually began with Joe’s signature bread basket and although attempting some semblance of restraint it was illogical to refuse a second round based entirely on the strength of the salty warm pretzel as well as the unctuous pumpernickel, both enjoyed alongside butterflied shrimp coated in coconut that made my mother swoon while I focused on fritters nearly half lobster and half creamed corn with just enough filler to hold it all together beneath a golden, crisp shell.
Slightly underwhelmed by sweet potato fries that were served in plethora yet a bit to limp for personal tastes it was in lobster-loaded mac n’ cheese and a duo of crab cakes shaped like Cuban croquettes that my dining partners indulged and although both were quite nice it seemed the consensus that the eponymous claws were the best choice, a similar statement befitting a large cube of steamy bread pudding absolutely drenched in boozy caramel…though the key lime pie and buttery toasted pecan pie studded with dark chocolate chips would easily be the highlights of dessert menus in several equally well regarded spots…or perhaps as a decadent shopping mall snack when back home in the 702.
House Ricotta and Orange Marmalade on Toasted Pumpernickel
Fresh Fruit Bowl with Yogurt and Granola
Granola Pancakes with Seasonal Berries, Whole Wheat Flour, Oatmeal, Almonds, and Honey
Challah French Toast with Orange Zest, Cinnamon, Powdered Sugar
Selected largely based on its location at the far end of Ocean Drive a Tuesday morning breakfast at The Front Porch Café was undoubtedly the most ‘touristy’ spot on a recent Miami dining agenda and with construction delaying arrival to the point where I entered the humid space famished after a long morning run the experience was a mixed one at best, service strained and disinterested as beverages languished for refills while the majority of the cuisine was merely decent considering the cost – an issue thankfully mitigated by a gift certificate from restaurant.com.
In reality a hotel restaurant with an outdoor patio for those opting to see and be seen in the salty ocean air, it was just after 9:30 that our trio finally arrived at the sizable restaurant and finding the inside slightly more pleasant than the warm and wet ‘porch’ it would not be long before menus were delivered – the eventual order unfortunately delayed by quite some time but eventually delivered by back-servers as the young woman presumably captaining our table split duties between inside and out.
Notably needing to spend $50 amongst three people in order to receive $25 off it was with bacon and a blackberry scone that the meal began and although the fried pork was relatively standard stuff the scone was fluffy and dense, a hefty helping of berries packing the interior just as mixed fruits filled an enormous bowl of unsweetened yogurt and housemade granola, the addition of overwhelming melon a bit of a bummer though the pineapple, strawberries, and blackberries made for a better than average breakfast parfait.
Moving on to entrees it was in a duo of wholegrain pancakes studded with granola alongside chunks of orange-tinged challah that we invested the majority of our appetites and although the artificial maple syrup seemed somewhat out of place given the café’s ‘fresh’ focus the flavors and textures were pleasant enough, the flapjacks hefty and toothsome while the French Toast was lightly sweetened with a soft center and pan-griddled edges, a direct contrast to the meal’s best plate of crispy pumpernickel smeared in rich ricotta with housemade marmalade, the later plentiful enough to be scraped atop the French Toast thus negating the need for any Log Cabin or Aunt Jemima…something the kitchen should consider offering, even if at a further elevated cost.
Having already dined at 50 Eggs sister restaurant “Swine Southern Table & Bar” and admitting the fact that I was treated as a ‘friend of the house’ by Chef Todd Harrington of the upcoming Yardbird Las Vegas it is perhaps with some degree of bias that I say Miami’s Yardbird was amongst the best meals experienced during a nine day trip to Florida and yet setting aside comped plates, genuine Southern Hospitality, and a personal affinity for comfort food in general it can only be said that the cuisine emerging from this kitchen is upscale-rustic at its very best.
Located just steps from the fanciful Lincoln Road Mall and featuring blond woods as well as leather banquettes amidst high ceilings and chalkboard quips about chicken, pork, and bourbon it was at a large four-top that our party was seated for a 4:30pm early dinner reservation and treated to stellar service by one of the team-members soon to be relocating to Vegas it was mere moments after receiving the menu that a duo of gifted appetizers arrived, the deviled eggs creamy with a touch of spice and brine while the BLT presented an explosive juxtaposition of textures and flavors, the soft belly atop crispy fried tomatoes bright with acid as spicy cheese spread melded it all together – a particularly exemplary dish when taken with the restaurant’s signature Lemonade – Bourbon infused or virgin, depending on taste.
At this point placing a proper order it would not be long before Todd and the GM stopped by and after brief chat about the upcoming Venetian venue a trio of additional plates arrived, the Heirloom Tomato Salad well conceptualized with bright flavors amidst bold aromatics and the creamy croquette draped in a runny egg purely indulgent while the simple pairing of lightly salted warm cheese atop chilled watermelon proved far better than humble ingredients would lead one to guess – each component highlighting the others with a explosive flavor far greater than the sum of its parts.
Unable to pass on Yardbird’s signature plate of Fried Chicken atop a crispy cheese waffle identical to that at Swine suffice it to say that every bite of the juicy bird was as good as the first and utilizing a sidecar of chow-chow as well as chilled watermelon to occasionally refresh the palate the only thing preventing us from devouring the substantial portion was a cup of toothsome grits…and a warning from our waiter that the kitchen was preparing to send out “several” desserts.
At this point already quite full from a long day of eating and somewhat dreading the 45 minute drive to and from BB&T Center for the Florida Panthers 7:00pm start it was as promised that three gifted desserts were presented to the table and although the Banana Cream Pie as well as Red Velvet Cake constructed as an impressively light trifle were exceedingly delicious while the Cookies wrapped around Nutella Ice Cream were merely ‘okay’ I simply could not help but order the whimsical bread pudding, a steamy crock of Americana amidst rich cocoa pudding that was entirely over-the-top and all the better for it – a must order in for those visiting Miami and one of several dishes I cannot wait to see reinvented back home in Vegas where I’ll undoubtedly be one of the first in line to see Chef Harrington and his team reinvent Southern cuisine for both locals and visitors to Sin City.
Warm Dulce de Leche Bread Pudding with Candied Walnuts, Roasted Apples, Vanilla Ice Cream
Double Espresso on Ice
Amongst the swankiest spots on South Beach and the sort of place where celebrities are known to dine it was just after noon on Monday that parking was secured just down the block from Prime One Twelve and entering the doors of Miami’s most storied steakhouse to the smiles of hostesses and waiters both the only thing more bountiful than the quality of the service was the portions of the plates presented, an order of three mains, two sides, and a trio of desserts easily enough to feed a party double the size of ours.
Located at 112 Ocean Drive, and as such obviously named, a visit to Prime One Twelve begins with perusal of the extensive menu and with best-in-class Bread Basket soon to arrive the mindful diner is smart to not overindulge, though a roll literally overflowing with soft cheddar as well as savory onion stuffed pumpernickel and sweet raisin walnut bread are apt to tempt, each great even without the addition of overly hard butter.
Largely eschewing enormous steaks while fully acknowledging that these items are indeed Prime’s “signatures” suffice it to say that even though prices trend high each sizable dish selected was nothing short of exemplary, an enormous burger intense and juicy with a light crust overlying a pink center while the substantial lobster roll was nearly all crustacean and no filler, the chicken and waffles perhaps an unlikely choice but on par with that at Yardbird for best in the city with a pounded breast brined and juicy beneath crispy breading atop a supple waffle more than capable of soaking up pure maple syrup as well as bold, bright hot sauce.
Underwhelmed by flavorless fried green tomatoes but more than impressed by fries, chips, and a veritable punch-bowl of creamy sweet potatoes that could have just as well been mistaken as maple-tinged frosting on a blind tasting it was onward to desserts that the meal progressed and with Key Lime Pie plenty tart beneath a heap of schlag the portions of both the Carrot Cake and Bread Pudding were almost comically immense, the former a pineapple studded masterpiece with thick ribbons of surprisingly light cream cheese while the later featured a nearly one pound block of caramel soaked brioche resting in a pool of sticky sauce and roasted apples, the slowly melting housemade ice cream and toasted walnuts adding variance in texture and temperature while helping to temper the intense sweetness…if only just enough to see me eat every last bite before spending the next few hours in a well earned food coma.
Considered by some to be the best Mexican Seafood joint in town it was a pre-lunch snack that saw our trio seated at La Camaronera and although the quality of the fish sandwich was unquestionably high the price-to-portion ratio was far skewed to the left while fritters were more starch than shellfish and tostones were oily at best. Obviously a downscale spot compared to others on a substantial dining agenda suffice it to say that a later stop at Star Fish Co. in Cortez proved a far superior experience at a lower cost per person and although Joe’s Stone Crab is obviously more expensive and ‘touristy,’ it too proved a superior experience, the extra dollars not only providing substantially better seafood but an arguably better ‘bang for the buck,’ a fact not just obvious in the signature savories but also in sweets where La Camaronera’s Key Lime Pie was far sweeter than it was sour, a situation further exacerbated by a substantial topping of canned whipped cream.
Self described as “The World’s Most Famous Cuban Restaurant” and housed in an expansive palace well adorned with mirror’s Miami’s Versailles and next-door Versailles Bakery played host to Monday morning breakfast and with a surprisingly large crowd present as early as 7:30am the morning menu alongside two ‘signature’ sandwiches served notice of exactly why the restaurant is so well regarded, all eleven items as well as the Café con Leche exemplary in preparation and rife with the sort of flavors uncommonly found elsewhere in the United States, regardless of time of day.
Truly a dramatic space, with some branding serving to lighten the mood of white tablecloths in back and café style seating up front, it was to a brief menu that we were introduced on seating and with servers buzzing around with plates, refills, and wide smiles the mood was jovial – a few questions quickly answered with orders placed and appetizers arriving no less than ten minutes later, the basket of piping hot fried empanadas and a guava-cheese pastry each proving crisp, delicious, and virtually oilless with fillings literally bursting forth the moment each golden pocket was cut to taste.
Eschewing more “American” options like French Toast and Pancakes to focus on creamy pork croquettas alongside a pair of sandwiches each selection was delivered fully dressed and as much as the Medianoche was prone to wow with a hefty accoutrement of meats and cheese it was the famous toasted Cuban Sandwich that immediately stole the show – each bite brazen in its porky sapor with melting cheese, pickles, and mustard all indispensible in creating a flavor profile that was at once salty, sweet, and entirely worthy of its substantial acclaim.
At this point settling an almost criminally underpriced $25 tab and making way to the bakery it was to a brief line managed by deli-style numbers that our party was greeted and with no less than forty options prime to tempt the sweet tooth a quintet of options were selected, the flavors of caramel and condensed milk figuring prominently in all but the syrup soaked Torrejas with every single pastry exemplary in its execution, the saturated tres leches cake and toothsome rice pudding particularly impressive while eggy flan could only be called textbook beneath a light layer of dulce de leche equally well utilized as filling to a shortbread cookie sandwich.
Having celebrated their fourth anniversary with a whimsical brunch earlier that day it was with some surprise that pubbelly was only a quarter full when my family entered the celebrated space at 7pm but with reggae playing overhead as the Dolphins suffered a tough loss to Denver it was perhaps good fortune that saw the space so sparsely populated as both the kitchen and front of house executed beyond reproach, an eleven part order delivered with superlative timing, spot-on descriptions, and flavors that left no part of the palate untouched…or un-wowed.
Considered by some to represent gastropub ‘fusion’ while others would suggest the technique driven Asian cuisine to be Miami’s answer to David Chang it should come as no surprise that Chef Jose Mendin’s daily menu featured no less than thirty items rooted in concepts of local sourcing as well as sustainability with an eye towards umami and starting with a trio of signatures the evening began with a bold slap to the tastebuds as spicy chorizo stuffed inside large dates found levity in foamy fromage, the followup “McBelly” pairing tender pork with a sweet bun and funky kimchee while a quartet of light noodles arrived packed with duck as notes of citrus and cinnamon tickled the palate on a slick of brown butter.
Expanding an empire without compromising quality at the flagship a second flight of plates stared with creamy polenta studded with tender beef beneath topnotes of truffle carried by a soft-poached egg and although the bread served alongside silky rillettes teaming with flavors of smoke and sea could have stood to be cut slightly thinner that most certainly did not stop us from wiping the mason jar clean, each bite almost equal parts uni and fish with bacon jam, crispy strands of nori, and pickled vegetables each adding their own style of nuance in a choose-your-own-adventure experience in which not a single flavor was out of place.
Treated next to the longtime signature of confit porkbelly beneath sweet-meets-savory glaze suffice it to say that those uninterested in fatty cuts of meat should not apply and rounding out savories with seasonal stonecrab tossed with hand-cut pasta the flavors of pickled peppers, ginger, and miso served to further enliven the freshly picked crustacean, a flavor profile far more complicated but every bit as delicious as the simple perfection offered at Joe’s in the following days.
Unable to settle on a ‘reasonable’ number of desserts and as such investing in all but the two sundaes on offer it was with a quartet of sweets that the meal would end and although the pronounced flavors of popcorn unfortunately overwhelmed the butterscotch pudding of Cap ‘n Corny it would be difficult to determine a ‘best of’ amongst the rest, the Mason Jar harkening the flavors of strawberry shortcake carried by a cloud while the tempura and bread pudding both channeled the flavors of fall to great effect, the former intricately spiced with smoke and boozy notes balanced by light sweetness while the later was fruity and aromatic with each piping hot bite a textural exploration of creamy base and crunchy strudel beneath slowly melting soft-serve that added a subtle hint of salt.
Selected as a late-lunch based entirely on positive word of mouth from folks worthy of trust a 2:30 reservation at Eating House found the small, hip space filled to capacity and although the crowd seems to trend towards the post-club “Ali G” sect the food proved well worthy of the substantial praise – the current brunch menu only slightly less innovative than the options offered at dinner, though that certainly did not prevent our four-part order from allowing the rapid-fire kitchen to show its strengths.
Eventually seated at a cozy four-top with a full view of the kitchen as well as televisions displaying the NFL alongside a whimsical bookcase of Miami paraphernalia it was not long before a waiter greeted our trio and with menus distributed it was mere moments before the order was decided, items coming out as they are readied with ‘hash browns’ harkening tater tots soon to arrive, the golden fried exterior intensely crunchy with a bit of spice while the interior was not dissimilar from mashed potatoes, the overall effect truly alluring particularly when paired with smoky tomato puree bright with acid and only minimally sweet.
Unfortunately forced to shout at one another over the mimosa and cocktail energized din it was perhaps twenty minutes before the second round of food appeared tableside and although the waffles were a touch soft with no discernible sapor from the liver to be found nearly every other aspect of both dishes were divine, the well-brined bird intensely juicy and well complimented by both maple and spice while the cereal studded pancakes were an onslaught of sweetness atop fluffy clouds of golden batter, the textural contrasts and flavors both on par with the best flapjacks tasted to date.
Rounding out the afternoon with thick bread lightly soaked in syrup suffice it to say that the crispy exterior was as unexpected as it was delicious and although light hoppiness proved an admirable foil to crumbled sugar cookies and pronounced sweetness from amply drizzled guava it was the airy cream cheese, presumably from an ISI Container, that truly brought the plate to new heights – each bite utterly indulgent yet surprisingly light, a perfect conclusion to an already heavy day of eating leaving plenty of room for more conspicuous consumption later that night.
Coconut and Medjool Date Icky Sticky Pudding Cake – wood roasted pears
Never one to shy away from sequential morning meals, particularly in a brunch scene as dynamic as the one of Miami and South Beach, it was just as the doors unlocked at Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink that our trio found a seat on the quiet side of the bar and with exquisitely knowledgeable service happy to offer advice an eight part order was crafted, each item coming out as it was readied by the kitchen with only an overcooked egg and undersized pancake holding the experience back from perfection in all ways.
Located in the Design District, with parking at a premium and reservations a must for anyone who does not desire a long wait, MGFD is considered by many to be Miami’s ‘signature’ restaurant and with a Beard Award winning Chef at its helm alongside a repeat semi-finalist for pastry the options range far and wide, the concepts of daily change, local sourcing and sustainability forming a longtime core while several ‘signatures’ also decorate the menu – the later a worthwhile focus of a first-time visitor, though the raw bar, salads, and produce all seemed plenty enticing as well.
Opting to balance sweet with savory it was a simple matter of timing that saw the meal begin with what would turn out to be the best item of the set and as much as the crunchy cinnamon toast found textural balance in the sweet, creamy flavors of autumn a follow-up of finely shredded duck beneath a seal of fat saw the full-on flavors of fowl meet sharp contrast in crispy toast and house-pickled vegetables, the transition to a lackluster pancake only slightly larger than the diameter of a hockey puck proving a disappointing waste of $8, though the pure maple syrup was admittedly quite good.
Rejecting a first attempt at pizza due to an egg that was cooked-through only to be treated to a replacement less than sixty seconds later suffice it to say that Michael’s does not skimp when it comes to cheese, eggs, or herbs and with a lightly blistered crust bolstering the flavor profile of already smoky bacon the only thing that prevented the pizza from shining best of the savories was its tablemate ‘signature’ of two egg yolks baked in a small ramekin beneath a veil of gooey gruyere, each rich bite a new adventure in taste and texture as local tomatoes added a splash of acid serving to accentuate an herbal blend prominent with chives.
Finishing strong with a trio of sweets a humorous glitch in the computer system saw no less than three Caramel Buns arrive at our table at separate times and as much as I’d have been glad to indulge in each as the golden roll was sweet, crispy, and moist the better part of valor was saving room for the rest – a banana bread pudding a tad undersized for sharing despite the intensity of its flavors while the novel take on traditional Sticky Toffee Pudding was enthralling in its subtlety, the shredded coconut and its milk serving to tame an otherwise sugary dish while the roasted pears were smoky and tender beneath a quenelle of light cream.
House Toast – Cashew Butter and Strawberry-Rhubarb Jam / Paradise Toast – Farm Honey and Butter
Located in Wynwood and closed on Saturdays in observation of Shabbat, Zak The Baker was an easy decision for early morning pastries on Sunday and arriving at the sizable bakery to find it almost entirely full a mere thirty minutes after opening the rumors of some of the city’s best pastries were quickly confirmed, the ever changing menu featuring several savories and baked breads alongside the sweets which we ordered – all of them seemingly finding resounding praise from a diverse crowd ranging from secular Jewish families to hipster couples happy to indulge in trendy avocado-topped toast.
Every bit the ‘working bakery’ with teams in the open kitchen readily visible mixing, kneading, arranging, and toasting as the front of house staff amicably answered questions and brought out orders it was with a trio of countertop-ready items that our meal began and with the pecan pie featuring a sort of praline surface overlaying a gooey base and pure butter pastry the flavors immediately wowed, an entirely vegan upside down cake only slightly less impressive due to an overly spongy texture beneath heavily spiced fruits while the flourless chocolate cookie proved to be amongst the best bites in all of Miami, the barely set center dark and rich with just enough salinity added to keep it from being one-note.
Acknowledging the fact that there were several meals to follow it was with some remorse that the table passed on additional baked goods but instead turning attention to a duo of toasted breads the results were again impressive, the nine-grain and sunflower selections topped plentifully with locally sourced and/or house-made accoutrements including intensely creamy butter beneath a drizzle of honey and freshly ground cashews topped with a dollop of housemade jam – the former a significant upgrade on any typical ‘side of toast’ and the later the sort of $5 indulgence that makes one question whether to accept plain ol’ PB&J ever again.
Nutella Swirl Cookie and Snickers and Potato Chips Cookie
Butter Croissant
Almond Croissant
Chocolate Caramel Cake
Pumpkin Spice Pepitas Cake
Located in Wynwood and considered by many to be Miami’s premier destination for locally roasted beans there is little doubt that the brains behind Panther Coffee have done an excellent job in terms of sourcing, preparing, and branding their product, yet featuring the sort of service clearly intended to make hipsters feel as though their misplaced superiority complexes are justified it proved almost impossible to truly “like” the space during a pair of visits while exploring South Florida.
Small in size and heavy in wood with a post-modern soundtrack pushing the din towards distracting when the line swells to 20+ minutes the Panther concept differs little from spots like Intelligentsia or La Colombe and with several single origins, a few blends, several brewing methods, and outsourced pastry offered from a long counter a duo of orders explored only a fraction of the offerings, the smooth and intense cold-brew bottled on the spot via pints or quarts while a mugged Americano featured the sort of complex crema generally reserved for freshly pulled espresso shots – a clear indication that these baristas know their craft well.
Moving onward to pastries, mostly unlabeled with little assistance offered by eye-rolling employees, a half dozen items were sampled over the course of daytime snacks and although both the croissants were somewhat soft with no semblance of shattering shell the flavors were excellent, a similar compliment due to impressive miniature cakes that proved dense, moist, and only mildly sweet as well as a duo of cookies – the Nutella Swirl a bit heavy handed but the sweet/salty juxtaposition of Snickers and crispy potatoes surprisingly refined and all the better when paired with cold brew poured over ice on the outdoor patio where people watching is pretty tough to beat.
Having missed Danny Grant’s tenure at Michelin 2* Ria in Chicago it was with high hopes that I booked a table at trendy 1826 and although the restless chef had again moved on by the time dinner arrived it was still his final menu to which we were treated, an eleven plate experience during which not a single plate fell short of exemplary.
Every bit the South Beach hotspot, with 4 inch heels and a tight skirt never more than a few feet away, it was just after 7:30 that our party of three entered the second story space and deferring on a dreadful first table offered by the buxom hostess it was with a window-side view that we soon sat, a plate of buttery warm focaccia landing along with the menus as EDM pulsed overhead.
Trending a touch ’Vegas’ in terms of style and demeanor, but decidedly upgraded in service by a team well versed in the menu and its nuances, it was after mere moments of indecision that selections were made from the menu’s 3×2 format and although an opening volley of delicate croquettes were decidedly pricy at $3 per marble the explosive potato center teaming with butter, pork, and chives was a wakeup call to the palate and a good sign of things to come.
Onward to appetizers suffice it to say that both the beets and the blossoms traced the flavors of late-autumn in bold lines with light touches of acid helping to brighten each plate while a nearly three ounce slice of creamy foie gras took an entirely different route in resting atop a slice of buttered brioche, the substantial heft just barely reined in by a duo of fresh fruits while grated cookie lended just a bit of texture up top, a sort of torchless brûlée, if you will.
Largely focused on heavier proteins and pastas as entrees it was after a short respite as the dining room filled that two bowls of risotto plus a “duo of duck” arrived and while both the snappy crustacean amidst buttery cheese as well as the mushroom crusted fowl served alongside crackling confit were delicious neither were in the same league as the simple combination of rice, cream, wine, and fresh truffles – the tableside unveiling perfuming the immediate area and each bite as good as the last until the diner is running their finger through remaining sauce lamenting the focaccia long gone.
Moving into dessert it was with minimal debate that a “one of each” approach was taken to a menu from which all options appeared divine and although molten chocolate cake and a composition of bright fruits atop ethereal key lime curd were both quite pleasant the reference standard made-to-order mille-feuille and complex “frozen cheese plate” were undeniable must-haves, the former a shattering juxtaposition of butter pastry and thick cream while the later melded brine, bitter, acid, and sweet into an amalgam that should make folks in Miami very excited for whatever Chef Grant and his new team at 50 Eggs plan to hatch next.
Knowingly overestimating the dining capacity of co-travelers, but attempting to make the most of limited time, second brunch on Saturday saw our trio seated at Buena Vista hipster hangout “The Federal Food, Drink & Provisions” where although the bottomless brunch bubbles seemed to be a hit with several loud surrounding tables the experience was average, at best, for those sober enough to know the difference.
Strip-mall located with a tight interior decorated in taxidermy beleaguered by kitsch as servers parade around nonsensically offering anecdotes, without particularly accomplishing much as relates to presenting plates, it was from a recently retooled menu that our meal was crafted and having done away with the prix-fixe shared plates concept in favor of a la carte the five plate meal progressed quickly, an unadorned jumbo biscuit starting things off right with a tremendously flaky interior imbued in buttermilk beneath a golden tan ever so slightly sweet.
Admittedly an interesting menu despite service and ‘scene,’ it was not long after the biscuit that the creamy crab as well as the crispy waffle arrived and although the bread served with the dip was nearly inedibly dry the spread itself was intensely flavorful, the same to be said for a lightly breaded pork shank that effortlessly shredded from the bone to outperform all but the finest fried chicken and waffles tasted to date.
Served ‘small plates style,’ but still a touch out of the order that would be expected, it was in follow-up to the dip that thick slices of French Toast were delivered and although each a bit doughy the accoutrements of pumpkin puree, sticky caramel, and spiced whip each dazzled – the later strikingly similar to the toasted marshmallow fluff plated alongside caramelized sweet potatoes and a jar of confit duck – a signature dish, indeed, though again held back by poorly conceptualized bread.
Biscuits with maple butter and blackberry preserves
Jalapeno, Cheddar, Bacon Cornbread with maple butter and blackberry preserves
Macaroni and Cheese –‘pig tail’ macaroni, bacon, five cheeses, toasted bread crumbs
Pulled Pork n’ Poached Eggs with smoked pork, Adluh South Carolina stone ground grits
Country Fried Bacon and Waffles with thick cut house smoked bacon, Cheddar cheese waffle, chilled spiced watermelon, honey hot sauce, bourbon maple syrup
Blueberry Pancakes with fresh whipped cream, bourbon maple syrup
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
Warm Sticky Icky Bun with Maple Bourbon Toffee Syrup, Pecan Butter Candied Bacon Brittle and Vanilla Ice Cream
Owned by 50 Eggs, the group behind South Beach hotspot Yardbird, Swine puts a smokehouse spin on the “Southern Table & Bar” and with a brunch menu running the gamut from pancakes to pulled pork the only real question during the 10am meal was “how hungry are you?”
Undoubtedly a carefully curated spot, with plenty of wood and whimsy plus a high ceiling design allowing for an upstairs loft, our arrival at Swine was met with warm welcomes and quickly seated in cozy booth by the woman who would be our server it was not long before questions were answered and an eight-part order unfurled – a quartet of cornbread and three flaky biscuits with house-blended maple butter and blackberry preserves soon sending a warning that Swine doesn’t skimp on quantity or quality – the toothsome muffins particularly impressive with smoke and spice prominent amidst a background only slightly sweet.
Moving on to entrees, alongside a smoldering bowl of pork-imbued Mac, it was with eyes focused on things both sweet and savory that brunch progressed and although fluffy blueberry pancakes were quite delicious under a sheen of boozed up maple syrup they simply could not hold a candle to the quality of swine-centric specialties including acid-splashed pulled pork over creamy stoneground grits or audacious inch-thick strips of bacon taken to the deepfryer before nuzzling up to crunchy waffles drizzled in Tobasco, the later an absolute treat when taken with fresh watermelon and a drizzle of maple to help temper the heat.
Sated but not stuffed it was somewhat disappointing to discover that much of Swine’s dessert menu is only offered at supper but making do with what was available the results were pleasant enough, the $10 slice of pie a bit overpriced albeit delicious and quite rich while the signature “sticky-icky” bun was all sorts of sinful with melting butter dripping from golden curls as caramelized bacon brittle dazzled beneath slowly melting ice cream – vanilla as the menu-designated sweet potato was as yet also unready, but delicious just the same.
Flying into Ft. Lauderdale via the redeye with a 6:55am arrival I figured we could make it to Mojo Donuts by 7:35 and with fortuitous traffic on our side so began my first dining trip to South Florida – at a small strip-mall shop in Pembroke Pines that is turning out some of the most interesting and texturally appealing donuts to date.
Diverse to the point of dizzying, a total of at least two dozen choices coming out fresh at six o’clock each day with several hot rounds to follow, Mojo Donuts is the brainchild of Shawn Neifeld and considered by some to be the only artisan doughnuttery anywhere near Miami a look at the wares proved nearly across-the-board impressive…only a bit of ‘put-upon’ hipster service holding the store back from excellence in all ways.
$14.99 per dozen, with a pair of fritters charged extra and a +1 check-in offer via social media, the Mojo experience began with a selection of bottomless brews and sipping ample amounts of Columbian java to cleanse the palate between bites the tasting kicked off with each supplementary fritter setting a high standard as crunchy shell gave way to supple insides laced in spice with fresh fruit to spare, a similar generosity of ingredients found in bacon gracing a pillowy maple longjohn while all sorts of childhood whimsy decked out a hole-less puff seemingly straight from the folks at Reese’s.
Onward and upward to yeasted rings and several filled options, including a stunning apple pocket beneath shattering candy shellac, it was only the Oreo-fluff sandwich that disappointed by proving a touch too heavy handed but quickly returning to form with tangy cream cheese and airy meringue atop red velvet and lemon curd, respectively, it would be hard to quibble with any of the rest, the lack of any ‘normal’ options notwithstanding…though why would anyone want ‘double chocolate’ or ‘old fashioned’ when they could instead indulge in Snickers and salty potatoes or deep fried German chocolate cake?
Making my second visit in three weeks to Hearthstone, this time with a quartet of friends in tow, suffice it to say that Brian Massie and Light Group’s newest spot at Red Rock has seemingly found its audience – a packed house with hour-long waits when we arrived at 8:00pm – and although service was clearly belabored by the crowd the kitchen continued to shine, all nineteen plates experienced showing a deft hand for balanced spice profiles, superlative textures, and in the case of a nightly special the kind of backyard decadence rarely found in any indoor environment, let alone a casino restaurant.
Suffering from lackluster hostesses, clearly hired for their look as opposed to their ability to read a reservation, it was at an outdoor table with the sort of service prone to drop off plates with no description while pushing drinks as “yummy” or “delish,” that we were originally seated and eventually making it evident that such behavior was unacceptable it was only then that the meal improved, though the nicely blistered pizza, well sourced charcuterie, and plates of tender meatballs beneath blistered tomatoes as well as stuffed dates atop a bed of smoke and swine had already impressed.
Eventually moved indoors when the wind picked up and dropped the temperature by about 20 degrees it was next at a tall eight-top that we were seated and with service improving dramatically with visits from the dining room manager, Chef Massie, and others soon to follow the subsequent cuisine was a Chef selected mix of the menu’s best – the charred octopus again exemplary with the crab toast light and sweet, the foie this time entirely creamy amidst crushed peanuts while the tartare was so smooth and well balanced by the pickled vegetables that it essentially reinvented the tired old dish into a beef presentation I’d consider ‘must order,’ a rarity to say the least.
Obviously intending to impress with a giant wooden platter of perfectly picked swine topped in ample amounts of crispy skin it simply goes without saying that the Hearthstone’s suckling pig outperforms the bland $125 quarter-swine at Bazaar Meat for best I’ve tasted in the valley but with the addition of roasted pork jus dripped through the rotisserie potatoes the dish reached even higher ground, a pot of apple butter atop toasted bread and a lightly dressed salad adding a bit of levity to the courses’ otherwise intense heft.
At this point fully sated but happy to experience more it was in two ‘entrees’ that we indulged and with the shortrib expectedly fork tender as broccoli rabe provided a bitter textural foil the spicy chittara pasta was no less impressive, a pile of snappy shrimp with sweetness intensified by a spritz of Meyer lemon almost outshowing my second experience with a creamy side of lobster polenta…almost, were the later not again one of the best sides I’ve experienced this year.
With the clock now approaching eleven, and all but those gathered around shuffleboard and the bar thinning out, it was again to a long conversation with Chef Massie that the table was treated and joined by his second-in-command as they discussed upcoming ideas and concepts it was to a trio of desserts that the night concluded, the lava cake and pudding again showing strongly while the tart that had sold out during my previous visit was nothing less than exemplary, an American classic gussied up with bittersweet frangipane as autumnal aromatics danced lightly amidst subtly sour ice cream.
Eggplant Rollatini – Thinly Sliced Eggplant, Fried Golden, Stuffed with Housemade Ricotta and Mozzarella over Marinara
Red Velvet Cake
Half-Order of Bombolini
As authentic as many New York slice shops despite its Westside location in Summerlin’s Boca Park, East Side Pizza had been earmarked for a visit for some time when I entered its doors on Saturday night and with football playing on two screens as fairly steady stream of foot traffic arrived for takeout the experience was as good as expected – no more and no less.
Clearly a locals-only sort of spot, despite ownership proudly declaring Big Apple roots, a visit to East Side Pizza begins at the end of a long counter where single slices are there to temp and with ordering available up front or seated at tables to the right I found myself a four-top where the Italian-American menu expanded well beyond the giant rings of dough being hand tossed by a duo of young men standing before ovens glowing electric orange.
Obviously there for the pizza, but also willing to sample a few appetizers along with, it was with recommendations from a friendly female server that my order was made and with little delay the meal began with the aforementioned slice, a classic pepperoni concoction with a bit of char, plenty of crunch, and a stream of grease pooling on the plate when folded to take a bite. Less successful, a followup of ‘garlic knots’ had none of the expected crunch and although reasonably laced with garlic butter the dinner-roll texture left me luke-warm, a sidecar of classic marinara improving the flavors only a smidge.
At this point experiencing a bit of delay due to several take-out orders occurring at once it was after perhaps twenty minutes of watching Oregon State and ASU that the $10 Eggplant Rollatini arrived and although meager in portion with only three thin slices of eggplant on a bed of marinara with a veil of cheese both the flavors and textures shined, a similar kind word offered to the rich cocoa tones of limited-edition Red Velvet Cake but completely inappropriate for thimble-sized ‘bombolini’ that lacked any semblance of yeasty nuance, instead presenting nothing but oily fried dough.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Friendly service, save for an older woman jokingly spouting semi-racist epithets to the men spinning dough, and fairly good red sauce classics are the name of the game at East Side Pizza and although never particularly sold on the idea that New York Style is a pie worth seeking out the version here is pretty close to the real deal while other options vary in quality and quantity compared to price paid.
RECOMMENDED: Pizza, Red Velvet Cake.
AVOID: Garlic Knots, Bombolini.
TIP: Offering several lunch specials, 4-course $9.99 dinner, and Groupons those looking for a deal can easily exit East Side Pizza for less than $10 per person while still hitting the menu highlights.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
