Hearthstone Kitchen & Cellar
Honey Badger – Aviation Gin + Belle Poire + Apple Juice + Lemon + Thai Basil + Cardamom Honey
Charcuterie – Vacherin Mont D’Or, Heritage Pork Rillette, Country Terrine, Truffle Honey, Balsamic Crème, Raisin Walnut Toast
FG&J – Foie Gras Mousse + Virginia Peanuts + Housemade Jelly
Baked Ricotta – Truffle Honey + Black Pepper + Gouda
Carbonara Wood Oven Flatbread – Panchetta + Soft Poached Egg + Onion
Roasted Squash – Burrata Cheese + Brown Butter Nut Granola
Lobster Polenta – White Corn + Mascarpone + Chives
Tuna Carpaccio – Avocado + Meyer Lemon + Jalapeno
Scallop Tartare – Plum Vinegar + Basil + Grapefruit
Charred Octopus – Smoked Potatoes + Rocket + Chorizo Aioli
Harvest Quinoa Salad – Chickpea + Apple + Gouda + Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
Espresso on Ice
Peanut Butter Lava Cake – Butterscotch + Roasted Banana + Brown Butter Ice Cream
Butterscotch Pudding – Cookie Butter Crunch + Whipped Cream
Blood Orange Sherbet
Filling an enormous footprint at Red Rock Resort and Casino with urban-rustic décor, flatscreen televisions, and an open kitchen alongside a sizable raw bar, Light Group’s Hearthstone represents the company’s first off-Strip Las Vegas venture and with Brian Massie overseeing the restaurant’s launch the residents of Summerlin should take notice as the future of innovative dining options in the masterplanned community may depend on it. Every bit the trendy spot, but comfortable with several seating options and a soundtrack ranging from Taylor Swift to The Doors, the experience at Hearthstone begins with vibe and featuring a staff already exceedingly well trained and exuberant in their discussion of the food and drink the large menu is the sort that could just as easily seen in Chicago, Los Angeles, or even New York – a wide selection of shared plates, snacks, cheese, and charcuterie alongside a few ‘entrees’ and desserts.
Seated at a raised leather booth, overlooking the kitchen where Massie and his team worked non-stop in front of wood burning ovens turning out pie after pie, it was in a selection of housemade charcuteries, spreads, and bread from Bon Breads that the meal began and with both the rillette and ricotta truly standout alongside truffled honey as well as reduced balsamic cream the “FGJ” only found its footing after being allowed fifteen minutes to warm up, the texture then smooth enough to spread athough the accompanying brioche had long since cooled down. Sipping the well balanced and whimsical “Honey Badger” as I awaited round two, it would not be long before a flatbread and two sides arrived and with a well blistered crust bolstering the flavor profile of cracked pepper, onions, and pork beneath an egg added tableside the only thing that prevented me from devouring the whole “Carbonara” immediately was the quality of the sides, a creamy low-bowl of polenta teaming with butter poached lobster while the squash was a perfect taste of autumn – a substantial plate for $7 and perhaps the best bites of the night.
At this point quite sated it was an unexpected surprise that the team opted to send out a few more items to try and although I cannot say the tuna did much for me as I generally find the fish to be quite boring, the scallop tartare was absolutely silken in texture with a bold hit of acid up front and light heat on the finish. Rounding out the savories with a salad far more interesting than I’d have guessed and charred octopus no less fabulous than that at Carnevino atop an admixture of brine and smoke it was onward to dessert that the meal progressed and although the apple tart was already sold out the highly recommended pudding and seemingly overplayed ‘lava cake’ both showed strongly, neither exceedingly sweet and the cake especially remarkable when the crowd-pleasing center poured forth with a flavor of pure roasted peanuts and bananas rather than some sugary concoction that could have unbalanced the whole plate.
FOUR STARS: Declined any form of a check and thus presenting an uncomfortable situation where I emptied the limited cash in my wallet in order to compensate the stellar service I’d originally considered reserving my opinions for a second visit, but evaluating the cuisine and experience as objectively as I can I’ll simply say that Hearthstone has the potential to be very special, particularly given its location. As yet still finding its footing and offering a menu that seems a bit ‘everything to everyone’ it will be very interesting to see how Light Group tries to bring locals out to Red Rock for such a large and aggressive concept, but with plans for daily specials and prices trending far lower than similar spots on the strip I’d suggest that the average couple could easily compose a great meal here for less than $100 by focusing on small plates and come away very happy, the well-culled charcuterie selection and a cocktail also presenting an option for those looking for an after-work hangout or a light bite before a night out.
RECOMMENDED: Baked Ricotta, Rillettes, Roasted Squash, Quinoa Salad, Octopus, Lava Cake.
AVOID: The tuna was the only plate I did not enjoy, but those with dietary limitations would be well advise to ask about individual item preparations as unannounced items often appear, the jalapenos on the scallops or the capers amidst the octopus both with potential to ‘ruin’ a dish for someone overly sensitive to heat or brine.
TIP: Although not a wine drinker I’m told the list is excessively overpriced at Hearthstone, the top-shelf $12 cocktails perhaps a better value for those choosing to imbibe while several craft beers including 8 drafts range from $6-8.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
