Du-par’s, Las Vegas NV

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Du-Par’s

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Coffee

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Bread Pudding with Ice Cream, Caramel, Walnuts, Raisins

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Short Stack Pancakes

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Short Stack French Toast

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Glazed Donut Hot at 7am

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Almond Bear Claw Hot at 7am

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A veritable Los Angeles institution that I’d always neglected given their ever-evolving dining landscape I was admittedly excited when I found out that DuPar’s famous pancakes could be found in Las Vegas at the Golden Gate Casino, but it was not until I found out that they were available 24/7 and that some inebriated friends from out of town were there post-clubbing just as I was finishing my morning run that I committed to a 5:15am Saturday visit. Located right in the heart of downtown where the last of the nighttime crowd was returning to their homes/hotels free street parking was an easy score and with myself the only person in the restaurant who’d actually been asleep the night prior it was mere moments before we were seated, coffee poured, and orders taken – a plethora of carbs from which my friends would merely pick at prior to retiring for the night thus leaving me with enviable task of playing cleanup to some truly textbook diner food, decadent desserts, and even a pair of fresh baked goods as I hung around abusing the free Wi-Fi and copious coffee refills until 7:00am. Without a doubt the sort of place where quality and quantity both matter it really came as no surprise that both the restaurant’s French Toast and signature pancakes, even as ‘short stacks,’ were immense but outstanding – the pancakes particularly light and quite literally ‘melt-in-the-mouth,’ but perhaps more impressive were the pastries and bread pudding – the donut a lightly raised and amply yeasted version without a bit of grease, the “bear claw” reminiscent of the Hungarian Nut Horns at Christmas during my youth but warmer and 10x the size, and the bread pudding a dense, steaming hot wedge covered in caramel and ice cream that rivals the best I’ve found in Sin City – especially at 5am.

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http://goldengatecasino.com/dining

http://www.du-pars.com/index.html

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Du-par's, Dupar's, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes

Osteria del Circo, Las Vegas NV

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Osteria del Circo

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Cherry Pecan, Focaccia, Ciabatta, Grissini, Olive Oil

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Margherita with Prosciutto

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Terrine de Foie Gras aux Figues et Gelee au Porto – Lillet Marinated Foie Gras Terrine, Poached Candy Stripe Fig, Black Currant Puree, Ruby Port Gelee, Black Pepper Brioche

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Gnocchi al Pesto Gratinati – Potato Gnocchi, Creamy Basil Pesto Genovese Gratin, Parmigiano Raggiano

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Pici Toscani – Hand Rolled Spaghetti, Bolognese, Aged Pecorino

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Ravioli di Mama Egi – Sheeps Milk Ricotta, Spinach, Swiss Chard, Butter Sage Sauce

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Agnello Alla Moda Del Circo – Colorado Rack of Lamb, Pecorino Cheese and Thyme, Crushed Potatoes with Peperonata, Lamb Jus

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Whipped Mascarpone Polenta

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Banana Souffle with Caramel Ice Cream and Banana Bourbon Shake

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Bombolini, Chocolate and Strawberry Jam

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Tiramisu, Espresso Gelato

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Chocolate Almond Biscotti, Vanilla Meringue

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With the restaurant a longterm member of my Vegas “to-visit” list and now scheduled to close in 2014 it was with a big smile that I booked Circo when friends from out of town perused the menu and agreed it looked excellent, a smile that would again emerge the moment we entered the whimsical room only to be led to the best seat in the house and a smile that would last throughout the subsequent three hours of pristine pastas and pizza, decadent desserts, and even a torchon of foie gras from Le Cirque next door. Fluid in service from beginning to end despite our request for courses to be served family style it was with bread and a sturdy, aromatic Margherita that our evening began and moving through a silky round of foie with decidedly sweet accoutrements it was with a trio of pastas that the meal truly began to wow, each a textbook preparation of the respective noodle/dumpling and the sauces rich without being heavy – particularly the meltingly-thin ravioli. Clearly over ordering but happy to indulge, a single secondi of lightly braised lamb arrived rife with grassy notes beneath a savory glaze while the accompanying bowl of polenta proved sticky, rich, and decadent – the latter carrying right over to desserts, each excellent but the towering cloud of banana truly special and every bit as good as the one being served next door, still one of my favorite soufflés to date.

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http://bellagio.com/restaurants/circo.aspx

Posted in Bread Basket, Circo, Dessert, Foie, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Italian, Las Vegas, Osteria del Circo, Pizza, Pork, Souffle, Tiramisu

Born and Raised, Las Vegas NV

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Born and Raised

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Homemade Mac & Cheese Bites – chipotle cheese sauce, cheetos dust

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Warm Garlicky Pretzel Bites – hummus

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Colonel’s Fried Chicken – baconnaise, pickle chips, sweet potato tots

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Monte Cristo Sliders – French toast stuffed with ham, turkey, swiss cheese & fried eggs, served with a side of potatoes and Watermelon

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Banana Bread French Toast Sticks – banana brulee, caramel sauce

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Hendertucky Toast – fruity pebbles coated French toast

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Not particularly fond of beer or bars it was with some trepidation, but on the advice of someone high enough in the industry that I trust his word, that I walked into Born And Raised with a friend from Columbus for an afternoon of college football and catching up; little did I know the afternoon would also feature excellent service, a fantastic selection of music both new and old, plus some of the best ‘bar food’ I’ve encountered in a setting with no less than fifteen live sporting events on a single wall to entertain my eyes. Ostensibly a locals-only place in theme and due to location B.A.R. does not seem like much from the outside and upon entering the surprisingly large space we were met by some surprise as the restaurant was having a rather slow day (something I’m told NFL Sunday is certainly not) but greeted by our server we were quickly led to a high table in the main dining area and with menus in hand a decision process began resulting in two beers and six plates plus a couple more when another friend arrived later. Creative in theme given the 24/7 nature of the space and featuring items running the gamut from simple sliders to inspired stoner-cuisine two of our items would derive from each of the appetizers, sliders, plus breakfast menus and proceeding sweet to savory every item was executed every bit as good as the new class of celebrity-chef gastropubs on-strip; the monte cristo slider, Mac n’ Cheese Bites, and Banana Bread French Toast particularly memorable while the Hendertucky Toast is simply too absurd, fun, and affordable not to order.

http://www.bornandraisedlv.com/

Posted in B.A.R., Born and Raised, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

Suzuya Pastries & Crepes, Las Vegas NV

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Suzuya Pastries & Crepes

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Kabocha Squash Cream Puff

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Anko Bean Cream Puff

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Fuji Apple Pie

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Mille Feuille

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Rocky Road Crepe – Slivered Almonds, Pocky, Chocolate, Kinako Marshmallow, Whipped Cream

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A relative newcomer to the diverse Las Vegas pastry scene I’d originally been made aware of Suzuya by a friend suggesting the small southwestern store produced the best crepes in town; not particularly a dish I go out of my way for…at least until he also mentioned the phrase mille-feuille and caused me to dig deeper, my research quickly mandating a Saturday visit when already in the area for lunch with a colleague from at Born and Raised. Small and neat, a simple pastry case and a crepe stone at the front of the restaurant with the kitchen in back and a few stools and chairs for dining in it was just after 10:15 when I arrived at Suzuya and with a couple picking up a custom cake while another woman, clearly a regular, stopped in for two-dozen apple pies I spent some time chatting with the employees about what was best, eventually allowing them to talk me into a crepe to go with a quartet from the case. Clearly focused on fusion but well-versed in French techniques my tasting of Suzuya started with a pair of crisp and buttery choux puffs filled with traditional Japanese accoutrements and although I’d have personally preferred the squash to be more sweetened the red bean version was exquisite and the pasty textbook, a trend that would continue onward to the buttery lattice of the subtly sweet apple pie and a crisp mille feuille filled to order and garnished with Chantilly cream and fresh fruit – both every bit on par with versions from b.patisserie during my June visit to the Bay and as such amongst the best I’ve experienced stateside. Clearly not leaving without at least doing due diligence to the crepe it can only be said that as far as crepes go this was about as good as it gets, the batter light and airy with a silken mouthfeel just robust enough to hold up to the equally light ingredients and a veritable deal at $4.75 which will see me back sooner rather than later to enjoy the mille-crepe cake or whatever Chef Misuzu and Plourde think of next.

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http://www.suzuyapastriesandcrepes.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Suzuya, Suzuya Pastries & Crepes

The Peppermill Restaurant & Fireside Lounge, Las Vegas NV

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The Peppermill Restaurant & Fireside Lounge

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Coffee

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Ambrosia French Toast, No melon, with whip

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Carrot Cake

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Rarely one to stay out late and certainly not the sort to do so while drinking heavily only to find myself craving greasy food at 3:00am I’d be lying if I suggested the iconic Peppermill had ever interested me as more than a sort of Las Vegas curiosity and yet with a 12-mile run and a few donuts from Ronald’s already under my belt it was with a ‘what the hell’ smile that I entered the neon-lit space with mirrored ceilings just as the cops arrived to deal with an unruly inebriated couple who were refusing to pay their tab. Featured in everything from CSI to Showgirls and featuring a 24/7 menu of everything from breakfasts and burgers onward to acclaimed nachos and desserts plus a setting quite unlike any other with drunken creatures of the night in all sorts of disarray it was clear on entering the space that it was I who was the novelty and requesting a table for one while using proper manners I was seated quickly, greeted immediately thereafter, and provided with superlative service throughout my 55 minute and 5 cup of coffee (plus one for the road) stay. Certainly not ‘gourmet’ or ‘artisan’ but wholly satisfying for both ‘dinner’ and ‘show’ my order would consist of only two items and electing for the carrot cake as an appetizer while my main course was prepared I was happy to find a modest slice of high quality placed before me, the dense body not overly sweetened but instead nutty and aromatic with a thin layer of cream cheese icing adding a tangy sweetness without overwhelming – a balance I neither expected nor received with the decadent pile of custard-laden egg bread that followed complete with fresh fruits, whipped cream, and warm syrup…exactly the sort of thing I imagine I’d crave after a night of drinking…or after an early morning run…or when I was 8 years old…or 25 years later.

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http://www.peppermilllasvegas.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, Nevada, The Peppermill, The Peppermill Restaurant & Fireside Lounge, Vacation

Ronald’s Donuts, Las Vegas NV

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Ronald’s Donuts

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Bearclaw

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Apple Fritter

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Cherry Cake

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Cinnamon Twist/Tiger Tail

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Buttermilk Bar

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Apple “Burrito”

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With friends in town for the second weekend in a row since moving to Sin City and my temporary housing located on Spring Mountain Road it seemed only logical to begin the morning with a long run and predawn visit to the iconic Ronald’s Donuts. Small and humble, a true ‘old-world’ donut shop with bad coffee and all the classics but none of the fuss, it was no real surprise that on my arrival a typical scene appeared; old men shooting the breeze, smiling clerks occasionally weighing in, and a slow but constant trickle of patrons gathering pink boxes of still-warm pastries to go – mine containing a hefty half dozen. Modest in my expectations even amidst the historical praise my tasting of Ronald’s work began with a tangy and delicate buttermilk bar and progressing through options both yeasted and cake including an impressive tiger tail and seemingly half pound bear claw chalk-a-block full of apples it was not until I reached the greasy and overly processed tasting ‘apple burrito’ that Ronald’s would stumble, a theme also notable in the sizable but otherwise underwhelming apple fritter – an item made far better at Friendly, Coco, and Pinkbox.

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http://www.yelp.com/biz/ronalds-donuts-las-vegas

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Ronald's Donuts

Chada Thai and Wine, Las Vegas NV

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Chada Thai and Wine

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Bouchard Pere & Fils Reserve Bourgogne Pinot Noir

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Willi Schaefer 2011 Graacher Domprobst Riesling

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KAI TOD – Fried marinated-Cornish hen with garlic

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YUM KAI NOK KATA – Fried Quail eggs, topped with dry shrimp, cilantro, onion. Spicy lime dressing

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TOM YUM KOONG – Spicy and sour lemongrass soup with shrimp and mushroom

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SPICY DUCK RICE – Fried rice with roasted duck meat, green onion, chili paste and fish sauce

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CHU CHEE LOBSTER TAIL – Served with Chu-chee curry of Kaffir Lime and Cilantro

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DUCK PANANG – roasted duck with panang sauce and Kaffir lime leaf

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CENTURY EGG BASIL – Preserved egg with basil and chili

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KANG KUA KADUK MOO – Braised pork rib stir fried with chili paste, turmeric, peppercorn and Kaffir lime leaf

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THAI SUNDAE – Peanuts, Coconut Ice Cream, Condensed Milk, Coffee Jello, Lychee

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Owned and operated by Bank Atcharawan, local king of Riesling and former sommelier at Lotus of Siam, Chada Thai and Wine had been on my ‘must visit’ list for some time but without a car during many previous visits to Las Vegas and largely without friends or family interested in the cuisine it was with good fortune that I finally found myself seated at a large table with five new friends on a Saturday night in early November for a two hour meal that would prove my best experience with Thai food to date. Dark and moody, almost romantic aside from the unexpected modern pop soundtrack, and decidedly more intimate than LoS as soon as one walks through the doors it would be mere moments after seating that we were greeted by our server and told of a few daily specials the laborious process of trimming our order from “I’ll take the lot” to something more reasonable began – the end result ten plates of food including a double order of the truly remarkable century egg, a dish certainly amongst the ten best I’ve enjoyed in 2013. Served in waves as we worked through two bottles of wine including a lightly sweet Riesling that proved an ample compliment to both heat and acid it was so frequent that someone at the table would proclaim their love for a dish that to describe them all would prove redundant, a simpler suggestion as relates to my palate being to order everything you can that features an egg or bird while disregarding any preconceptions you have about ‘heat,’ instead preparing your palate for complexity and balance.

http://chadavegas.com/

Posted in Chada, Chada Thai, Chada Thai and Wine, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Nevada, Pork

Snowflake Shavery, Las Vegas NV

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Snowflake Shavery

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Black Seasame Snow, Mochi, Condensed Milk, Egg Pudding

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Green Tea Snow, Red Bean, Condensed Milk

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Originally intrigued but inevitably underwhelmed by the Fro-Yo fad it was with high expectations that I approached the highly praised Snowflake Shavery hoping that the new ‘foodie’ trend of Japanese Snow Cream would succeed where others had failed, namely creating a reason to ever crave it in a world full of gelato and ice cream. Located, like many wonderful things, on Spring Mountain Road in the same complex as Kabuto, Raku, Monta, Zen, and others it was just after 5:00 when I entered the small shop and greeted by friendly servers and low prices I opted for two small “Cool Combos” and with the all-natural ‘snow’ shaved and topped I made my towards the door to indulge, the delicate ribbons slowly shifting as I walked and the first fluffy bite crossing my lips just as I stepped outside, the flavor quite subtle and decidedly improved by the accoutrements, particularly the egg pudding which I would gladly eat by the bowl topped with or without a scoop of red bean. Admittedly a fan of sweet, decadent desserts and perhaps expecting too much based on the publicity I will simply say that while I appreciate Snowflake’s ethics and ingredients I’m just not their target market – if I want health food I’ll stay home and eat as I always do and if I want frozen desserts I’ll head over to Art of Flavors.

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http://www.facebook.com/SnowFlakeShavery

Posted in Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Snowflake, Snowflake Shavery

Novecento Pizzeria, Las Vegas NV

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Novecento Pizzeria

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70% Cocoa Chocolate, Hot Chocolate

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Roasted Beets with butter lettuce, Gorgonzola, Red wine vinegar dressing

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Chopped – Romaine, Genoa salami, Gorgonzola cheese, red wine vinaigrette, roasted red peppers, red onions

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Caesar

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Garlic Bread

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The Chef Marc – House Sausage, Cherry Tomatoes, Basil

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Bianco – Pesto, Gorgonzola, Roasted Onions, Fresh Mozzarella, Truffle Arugula

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Roma – Margherita with Pancetta, brown egg, cracked pepper, grated Romano cheese

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Naples – Marinara, Bufala Mozzerella basil, EVO, grated cheese

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Calzone – Prosciutto and Artichokes (made by me!)

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Strawberry Mascarpone Dessert Pizza / Peach Mascarpone Dessert Pizza

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Sweet Potato with Marshmallow, Pumpkin Spice, Olive Oil Rosemary, Rum Raisin, Red Velvet, Pistachio, and more Gelato from Art of Flavors

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Having already gone off-strip as a tourist to experience Chef Marc’s rustic Italian masterpieces at Parma it was with good fortune that my first weekend as a ‘local’ not only included Marc but also two dozen additional culinary enthusiasts at the newly minted Novecento Pizzeria in Henderson for an afternoon of fun, food, and even an opportunity to work the dough and 900 degree woodfired oven with my own two hands. As much an event as a meal it was mere moments after our party was seated that the education began and kicking off the afternoon with rich steamed-to-order hot chocolate each item to follow would prove superior in both ingredients and in skill, the salads complex and balanced while every item from the oven featured a smoky note of char overlying supple, leavened crust with great chew and a sloppy center. Admittedly a special event from the opening bites to the off-menu dessert pies and Art of Flavors superlative gelato I can only speak to my experience with Chef Marc manning the ovens, but dollar for dollar I’ve yet to find a better pizza in Las Vegas and while that search will undoubtedly go on and potentially uncover one better I’d be truly shocked if it comes from a more humble and dedicated man.

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http://www.novecentopizza.com/

Posted in Art of Flavors, Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Italian, Las Vegas, Nevada, Novecento, Novecento Pizzeria, Pizza, Pork, Truffle

Layers Bakery Cafe, Henderson NV

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Layers Bakery Cafe

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Raisin French Toast with Syrup

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Baklava

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Chocolate Bread Pudding

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Sour Cream and Sour Cherry Coffee Cake

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Blueberry Scone

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Iced Coffee

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Located in a strip mall off Green Valley in Henderson, Layers Bakery was seemingly the sort of place I would love – an organic artisan bakery focused on cakes, cookies, pies, and a breakfast menu both savory and sweet that looked great for a leisurely meal shared with an old friend…and save for some truly bizarre policies including refusal to use anything but raisin bread for the French toast or to slice more than one cake or pie per day it was. Sterile and commercial in design despite the local owners and organic approach it was just shortly after the 9am opening that I arrived at the restaurant and with my friend running late I was encouraged to order without her, an easy enough process entailing four pastry selections plus one from the kitchen and taking a seat with items to be plated and delivered it would not be long before my choices arrived; my friend walking in mere moments before the French Toast which she declined to taste due to the raisins just as I knew she would. Overall a decent collection with options ranging from crisp and surprisingly subtle Baklava plus one of the most buttery coffee cakes I have had in recent memory to a ‘scone’ whose texture more closely resembled that of a muffin and dense, flavorless bread pudding I cannot say I would venture down to Henderson for Layers, though perhaps if they were slicing (or willing to slice) the Golden Nugget or Bloody Good cake I’d reconsider.

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http://www.layersbakery.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Henderson, Las Vegas, Layers, Layers Bakery Cafe, Nevada

Grouchy John’s Coffee Shop, Las Vegas NV

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Grouchy John’s Coffee Shop

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Apple Fritter

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Pumpkin Cream Cheese Muffin

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Jedi – Coconut White Chocolate Latte

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Moving on from Friendly Donut House with hopes of getting some work done prior to meeting a friend for breakfast at Layers a two hour stop at Las Vegas Weekly’s “Best Coffee Shop” Grouchy John’s would prove more than apt to the task in terms of style, service, and beverage even though baked goods severely lacked. Friendly and efficient with a staff of baristas happy to engage the customer in banter about the myriad coffee concoctions or the day’s events while satellite radio plays overhead and local art decorates the walls it was with some discussion that I eventually settled on “The Jedi,” and although generally a double espresso or Americano sort I have to admit the flavor profile and mouthfeel were perfect while sweetness was not overdone, a sometimes-lost art that I appreciate for allowing the quality of the beans to show. Moving next to the baked goods, the fritter room temperature while the muffin was lightly warmed, and having been told subsequently that neither item is made in house I will simply say ‘good’ as the former was flavorless and dry while the later possessed the texture of a wet sponge – a shame considering the vast number of quality local bakeries from which they could be sourcing instead.

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http://grouchyjohns.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Food, Grouchy John’s, Grouchy John’s Coffee Shop, Las Vegas, Nevada

Friendly Donut House, Henderson NV

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Friendly Donut House

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Apple Fritter

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Apple Bearclaw

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Blueberry Cake

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Old Fashioned

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Bismarck

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Cherry Glaze Cruller

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reshly transplanted to Las Vegas just days prior and with friends new and old in town an early morning trek after my typical morning run landed me at the doors of Friendly Donut House just after 5:30am, the Henderson breakfast staple already playing host to a sextet of elderly gentlemen holding court over coffee plus a pair of folks joining in. Truly oldschool in terms of design, variety, and price with customers more like kin to the friendly staff it was clear on entry that the presence of a camera was not common around these parts and inquiring into my business I briefly explained, the end result a few laughs and rolled eyes followed by a multitude of suggestions and one congenial fellow refusing to allow me to pay, instead suggesting my half dozen be “placed on his tab,” a tab the clerk suggested he never pays anyhow. Thanking everyone involved and taking my selections to the street it would not be long before the tasting began and opting for variety the most remarkable thing about Friendly was consistency; each fried pastry a textbook example of its genre with light yeastiness to the raised options and supple textures beneath a crisp glaze on the buttermilk and blueberry. Moving next to an impressive Bismarck suggested to me as ‘can’t miss’ by the table of two and then to a delicate cruller with thick cherry glaze it was largely expected that what followed would represent “saving the best for last” and sure enough both enormous bearclaw filled with spiced apples and the crispy apple fritter would prove the best I’ve found in Las Vegas and although perhaps not ‘destination’ worthy, certainly worth a visit for those in or around Henderson.

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http://www.yelp.com/biz/friendly-donut-house-henderson

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Friendly Donut House, Henderson, Las Vegas, Nevada

Spot Dessert Bar, New York NY

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Spot Dessert Bar

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Golden Toast – Honey Buttered Toast, Condensed Milk Ice cream, Strawberries, Whipped Cream

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Kabocha Brulee Cake – Warm Japanese Pumpkin Cake, Walnut Soil, Condensed Milk Ice Cream

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Chocolate Green Tea Lava Cake – Soft Dark Chocolate Cake, Green Tea Ganache, Green Tea Ice Cream, Walnut Soil

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reviously featuring the culinary talents of Pichet Ong but later transitioned to an in-house pastry team focused on American desserts with Eastern influence “Spot” dessert bar had long been on my ‘to visit’ list and with Saturday night in the Lower East Side still relatively young there seemed no better time than the present to stop in, a single spot at the window countertop available amidst a jovial crowd of young Asian students from NYU as loud K-Pop played over head. Undoubtedly a locals sort of place and featuring a menu consisting of everything from cookies, cupcakes and ice cream to fully plated desserts both ‘classic’ and seasonal it was with little effort that I decided on a three-course tasting and warned by my server that this was ‘a lot’ for one person I proceeded, my only complaint being that all three items arrived at once as opposed to being coursed out thus leading to much melted ice cream. Doing my best to sample a wide swath of the menu and thus selecting one seasonal, one signature, and one ‘classic’ item the tasting began with the ‘golden toast,’ a pan griddled version of traditional honey toast that would prove good though not particularly special but moving on to the cream meets crunch kobocha cake and ‘best seller’ lava cake with smooth herbal white chocolate pouring forth from the cloud-like soufflé it would be difficult to decide which was more impressive, my lean toward the later if only because it elevated the ubiquitous lava cake to new heights both in terms of taste and texture while the green tea ice cream was perhaps the best I’ve ever had.

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http://www.spotdessertbar.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, New York, Spot, Spot Dessert Bar, Vacation

Nicoletta, New York NY

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Nicoletta

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Fresh Cheese (made in house daily), Olive Oil, Fig Jam, Griddled Flat Bread

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Arancini – Porcini Risotto, Truffle Oil, Parmesan, Chives

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Margherita Pizza with Prosciutto (Daily special with San Marzanos, Buffala mozzarella, Green Market Basil)

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Fior di Latte Soft Serve with Salted Rum Caramel Sauce, Peanut Butter Crumble, Rosemary Caramel Popcorn

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Largely unaware of the agenda of the wedding that brought me to New York in the first place it was with good fortune and better planning that I’d purchased a flexible flight home, a quick call moving me from redeye to earlybird and opening up a slot for a late night stop at Michael White’s Nicoletta. Praised by some and discarded for others it was just after 11pm when I entered the largely empty space and with servers aplenty I was quickly greeted, seated, and served – the whole process handled by a friendly youngster named Joey who provided great recommendations and ample anecdotes until just prior to midnight. Clearly a restaurant focused on the pie with dough leavened in house and much of the cheese and meat sourced from White’s own kitchens it was without much thought that the daily special Margherita was selected and with the crust smoky and supple beneath peerless ingredients I personally loved the chew, a sturdy center to pair with a robust crust that is rare in a Neapolitan dominated market. Moving past pizza and on to antipasti that I’d requested come shortly thereafter it was actually the same dough as the pizza griddled to light pillows that served as delivery for sweet jam and stretchy cheese while delicate rice teaming with earthy aromatics rested in a pool of parmesan rendered smoky by the oven rounded out the savories. At this point sated with dessert plans to follow I will admit it took a bit of convincing to sell me on soft serve but with a promise that it was “waaay better” than Big Gay Ice Cream I assented, the result an herb tinged take on Cracker Jack that redeemed my faith in soft serve bite after creamy, cunchy, sweet, and savory bite.

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http://nicolettanyc.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Italian, New York, Nicoletta, Pizza, Pork, Truffle, Vacation

Piedigrotta, Baltimore MD

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Piedigrotta

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Tiramisu

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Ricotta Cannoli

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Sfogliatelle

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Lobster Tail

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Diplomatica

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Located in Baltimore’s Little Italy and home to Carminantonio Iannaccone who, according to some, invented the Italian classic Tiramisu in his native Ponte di Piave Italy over forty years ago it was with heavy hearts that my sister and I entered Piedigrotta Bakery on October 12th, the last stop on a truly epic trip that had led us from Manhattan to DC and back over the course of nine days and although disastrous delays caused by the Baltimore Marathon beset us on both sides of our visit the experience proved every bit worth the effort. Truly a “mom n’ pop” establishment with the maternal role played by the gracious and smiling Bruna who helped to guide us through a multitude of Italian classics it was with a great deal of difficulty that we eventually trimmed our order from a dozen to five and opting to have each of the items plated as opposed to boxed we took a seat and eagerly awaited what would come; a flurry of butter, flour, milk, eggs, sugar, chocolate, cheese, and cream every bit as good as the rumors and perhaps even better given the lack of pretense and delightful decor. Rustic but beautiful and traditional yet refined our tasting of Iannaccone’s wares obviously began with a slab of the dense, creamy tiramisu alongside an equally hefty yet booze balanced diplomatic and clearly showing his skills with cakes the meal would only improve with the pastry, a trio of filled to order cannoli, shattering lemon tinged sfogliatelle, and puffed lobster tail filled with pastry cream all ranking amongst the best to ever cross my path.

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http://www.piedigrottabakery.com/

Posted in Baltimore, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Maryland, Piedigrotta, Tiramisu, Vacation

Artifact Coffee, Baltimore MD

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Artifact Coffee

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V60 Pourover Counter Culture Triunfo / Macchiato

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Morning Bun / Brown Butter Tea Cake

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Roasted Ginger Peach Muffin

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Chocolate Cupcake

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Vanilla Bean and Smoked Sugar Donut

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Peanut Butter filled Donut

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Making an early escape from Washington DC only to find ourselves imprisoned in Baltimore by a marathon that brought the city to a grinding halt it was perhaps no surprise that those aware of the race had largely avoided Spike Gjerde’s Artifact Coffee on Saturday morning and although much of what we experienced was good, most of it was simply “good for Baltimore” and none of it was worth the four hours we subsequently spent in traffic. Expectedly rustic-chic and bearing a cozy semblance to Woodberry Kitchen with a small prep area in back and pastries up front it was our original intent to order from the counter but taking into account the day’s activities table service was instead suggested and taking this advice it would not be long before pastries arrived with coffee to follow, the later a particularly earthy blend from Counter Culture and the former a bit of a mixed bag ranging from the disappointing and dry morning bun to the downright decadent Peanut Butter Brioche Donut and Brown Butter Tea Cake. Obviously focused on sourcing quality ingredients and providing an environment conducive to conversation it would be difficult to call Artifact isn’t a “run-of-the mill” coffee shop but taking that into account it would be equally challenging to consider it a true destination for connoisseurs until they begin roasting their own beans, a challenge I’m honestly surprised they’ve not yet embraced.

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http://artifactcoffee.com

Posted in Artifact Coffee, Baltimore, Breakfast, Coffee, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Maryland, Vacation

Rogue 24 [2,] Washington DC

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Rogue 24

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Strawberry Shrub – Strawberry, Rice Vinegar, Yogurt

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Usual Suspects – Avua Cachaca, Bryan’s Tonic, Pineapple, Paprika, Cilantro

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Porcini – Meringue, Chicken Liver, XO Vinegar

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Puff – Prawn, Whitefish, Ossetra, Dill / Kushi – Cucumber, Finger Lime Caviar / Pinenut – Brook trout roe, dill

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Potato – Truffle, Potato – Parmesan, Beef Tendon – BBQ Spice, Kelp

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Shiso – Rau-Ram

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Lick of Caviar – Lemon, Crème Fraiche

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Angel’s Son – Byrrh, Elderberry, Elixir, Bubbles

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Hamachi – Fresno Pepper, Puffed Barley, Coconut, Coriander

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Avocado – Sake Salmon Roe, Cilantro, Togarashi, Lavash

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Sepia – Samphire, Potato, Ink, Lime

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Roederer estate Brut Rose

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Urchin – Rice, Seaweed, Coffee

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Foie Gras – Consommé, Honey, Ice Lettuce

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Pigtails – Bitter Herbs, Smoked Peach Gel

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Poet’s Leap Riesling 2011 (no photo) / Evolution Craft Brewing – Lot Number 6 Double IPA, Salisbury MD

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Salsify – Oyster Leaf, Seaweed, Oyster Gel, Salsify Puree

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Lamb Tartare – Sprouted Lentils, Wild Yeast, Mustard, Rye

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Matsutake – Caramelized Bechamel, Wild Rice

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Snails – Potato, Garlic Threads

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Sorrel Stems – Horseradish, Red Cabbage

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Pigeon – Rice, Offal, Orange, Hazelnut

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Adrian Rubeno 2012

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Goat Curd – Nasturtium, Espelette, Sourdough

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Yuzu – Black Sesame, White Chocolate

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Blueberry – Vanilla, Pistachio

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Strawberry – Chocolate, Balsamic

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Dolce – Late Harvest White Wine, 2007

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Happy Endings – Little Things, Small Bites (Buckeye, Orange, Mint, Sable, Pate de Fruit)

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La Colombe Single Origin French Press

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Having originally met RJ Cooper in mid-May 2010 during a truly astounding meal at the short lived Vidalia24 and remaining in contact ever since it would be foolish to suggest that I can fairly assess a meal at Rogue24 without bias and yet with that in mind I can definitively say three things about the man himself. #1) RJ is one hell of a chef and his cooking as well as his creativity has only improved with each visit, each plate excruciating detailed yet still taking calculated chances with a high risk/high reward style where not every dish is ‘perfect’ but each is exciting – and the ones that are perfect such as ‘Sepia’ and ‘Lamb Tartare’ will blow you away. #2) RJ and his team know how to work a room; everyone from the chef himself to the sous chefs, pastry kitchen, hostesses, servers, and bussers more than capable of presenting a dish and focused on make sure everyone is having a great time. #3) RJ is a dedicated sports fan – and a terrible gambler. Go Buckeyes.

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www.rogue24.com

Posted in Coffee, DC, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, Rogue 24, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation, Washington

Graffiato, Washington DC

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Graffiato

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Kabocha Squash – Persimmon, Vanilla, Arugula

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Potato Gnocchi – Pork Ragu, Whipped Ricotta, Crisp Rosemary

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White House – Mozzarella, Taleggio, Ricotta, Prosciutto, Black Pepper Honey

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Grilled Flatbread with Pepperoni Sauce

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Pumpkin Bread Pudding – Cinnamon Gelato, Caramel, Spiced Pepitas

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Chocolate Budino – Olive Oil Gelato, Pine Nut, Dried Cherry

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Zeppole – Salted Toffee

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A substantial day of eating behind us and the main event of the evening, dinner at Rogue24 yet to come it was largely a matter of weather and a lack of anything else to do during the government shutdown that led us through the doors of Mike Isabella’s Graffiato for early evening snacks on Friday evening and unfortunately I think the same could be said of our server, Shannon, a young woman so incompetent and neglectful of our table that no matter how good the food there was no way to avoid her as the focal point of conversation or memory. Obviously a trendy space given the Chef’s celebrity status and fanciful location it was just after 4:00pm when we arrived at the largely empty space and seated swiftly juxtaposing the pizza oven the night started harmless enough with water filled and menus presented just as the bar began to fill and dancing plus flirting became the priority over customer service – the latter left to the back servers who had to be asked about nightly specials and depended upon when our second course was inexplicably absent 45 minutes after the aromatic, creamy gnocchi and tender, sweet squash were finished because our ‘primary’ server had forgotten to enter the items in the computer. Thankfully in no rush to leave and with Shannon in no rush to apologize, but rather to make “darn computer” excuses as we’d watched her hang off the neck of one of the bartenders to the tunes of 311, both the pizza and the flatbread would again show great work from the kitchen as the lightly leavened dough came through smoky with a lightly fermented note plus great chew and moving on to sweets all three proved competent if not particularly memorable aside from the fact that we actually had to order them from another waiter working the bar as ours, like her tip, was nowhere to be found.

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http://graffiatodc.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, DC, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Graffiato, Ice Cream, Pizza, Pork, Vacation, Washington

Pearl Dive Oyster Palace, Washington DC

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Pearl Dive Oyster Palace

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Playing Cards

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Potato Latkes – Apple-Serrano Pepper Jelly, Chive Crème Fraiche

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Sticky Cinnamon Roll – Toffee Sauce, Cream Cheese Frosting, Caramel Bacon Sauce

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Pontchartrain – Poached Farm Eggs, English Muffin, Blue Crab, Tasso Ham, Crawfish, Cayenne Hollandaise

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Fried Chicken Dinner – Salt Roasted Potatoes, Braised Organic Greens, Creamy Slaw

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Chocolate Chip Pound Cake Bread Pudding with Crème Anglaiase and Chocolate Ice Cream

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Black Skillet Apple Pie for two with Cinnamon Ice Cream and Double Espresso over Ice

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Not an oyster aficionado by any stretch but told by two friends that there is much more to Pearl Dive than briny bivalves it was still with a bit of skepticism that my sister and I approached the restaurant at 1612 14th St NW only to experience what was actually the best brunch of our nine day trip to New York, Baltimore, and DC. A comfortable, rustic space with a full bar up front and chilled seafood selections at a bar in the back plus wood (literally) all around and smiling, congenial service our arrival at Pearl Dive just as they opened assured us our choice of seats and with menus already perused as we waited in the doorway as shelter from the storm orders were placed quickly, a three course sweet-savory-sweet affair interspersed with games of Gin Rummy using the house-provided deck in which each course only improved on the last. In some ways ‘lowcountry’ and in others simply ‘southern’ in styling and featuring impressive ingredients all around the meal started off with light latkes and a dense cinnamon bun served in cast iron and moving on to savories it was with little effort that the restaurant’s two signatures were selected, the brined bird good but the Pontchartrain truly remarkable with a complex backbone of sea and swine brought to focus by the bright hollandaise. At this point sated and happy but with the rain continuing to fall while the restaurant remained cozy and quiet it was clear that dessert was a must and with a daily special of bread pudding up against the restaurant’s acclaimed apple pie there was only one thing to do; a “one of each” situation where no clear winner was ever decided and both plates returned to the kitchen virtually spotless.

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http://www.pearldivedc.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Crab, DC, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Pearl Dive Oyster Palace, Pork, Vacation, Washington

Ben’s Chili Bowl, Washington DC

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Ben’s Chili Bowl

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Pancakes, Scrambled Eggs, Grits

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French Toast and Half Smoke

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As true an American Classic as they come, U Street landmark Ben’s Chili Bowl had always been one of those places I knew I’d visit eventually but given my general distaste for hot dogs I’d never had a pressing “need” to wait in line for the experience, a situation I’d heard was far less common at breakfast and one that proved non-existent during poor weather in the early hours of October 11th, 2013. Every bit as ‘hole-in-the-wall’ as they come and seemingly unchanged since opening its doors in the late ‘50s it was with good humor that we walked in the door of the small restaurant to find a fully suited pastor holding court about the ongoing government labor stoppage as Motown Era tunes played overhead and with a “just ignore him, always carryin’ on” we were quickly seated and left to peruse the menu although our order was already in mind. Every bit a place for locals as for tourists and with service friendly and fun it would not be long before our orders arrived from the griddle; a pair of breakfast specials no better and no worse than the typical diner along with one of Ben’s famous “Half Smokes,” ostensibly just a well-made hotdog with a slight smoky undertone, though certainly more memorable in this setting and something I’m glad to have finally checked off my culinary ‘to do’ list.

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http://benschilibowl.com/

Posted in Ben's Chili Bowl, Breakfast, DC, Food, French Toast, Pancakes, Pork, Vacation, Washington