June 16, 2011
11:32 AM
by: Uhockey

Doughnut Vault, Black Dog Gelato, Alliance Bakery, Hot Chocolate, Atwood Cafe Chicago IL


Having just returned from Boston a week earlier the turnaround time for yet another trip to the Windy City was short, but with NEXT reservations and a trip to the Rookery as well as Wright’s Home, Studio, and Walking Tour of Oak Park as the impetus for the trip and two of my very favorite people coming along for the ride I knew it would be a whirlwind of great memories. As the reigning champion on my list of favorite Breakfast/Brunch cities and resting near the apex of best dining cities overall the question of where to eat was harder than it should have been, but after much debate three breakfasts, two lunches, and two dinners made the final cut along with a number of snacks in between.

Having gotten up at my traditional “insane” hour according to my mother for a nice run our departure from her home in Northwest Ohio would precede sunrise by a few hours and making great time our arrival to Chicago would not only beat the rush hour traffic, but also leave us waiting outside our first stop before the doors opened…in a line of about ten that would subsequently grow to thirty or more at a relative newcomer to the local food scene; The Doughnut Vault.

Located in a doorway off North Franklin and open from “Tuesdays-Friday starting at 8:30am until we run out. And Saturdays at 9:30am until we run out” The Doughnut Vault is the brainchild of Brendan Sodikoff who also owns Chicago’s “Gilt Bar” (and a pretty impressive resume including time with Keller and Ducasse) and although there have been some detractors calling his success yet another food fad, it is hard to argue with lines greater than twenty deep ever since opening in April and having never been “wowed” by a doughnut I took my place in queue as we watched the metermaids do their thing.

With the line growing slowly the doors would open at 9:30 on the dot and as mostly locals and regulars stood at the front it would be no time at all before we found ourselves before a nice young woman dancing to cheesy 80s music and with a quick exchange of “What can I get you?”, “One of each.”, “Good choice – $14, cash only.” we were on the street again with a big box of doughnuts including a Gingerbread Stack, Old Fashioned Buttermilk, Vanilla Glazed, Chocolate Glazed, and Pistachio Glazed – all still warm – and all shockingly delicious despite my previous convictions about fried dough.

Beginning first with the gingerbread stack – three “smaller” doughnuts (IE a normal sized doughnut like you might get from Dunkin) – these were the heaviest of the quintet and but despite the cakey texture they were anything but oily, instead similar to a coffee cake and loaded with spicy notes, cinnamon, and sugar. Moving next to the Buttermilk – another dense cakelike doughnut, smaller (and cheaper) than the others – something like a cruller but with tangy notes, a melt-in-the-mouth glaze, and not a bit of greasiness. Last but not least – the glazed trio – each at least twice the size of a “normal” doughnut yet nearly as light as a glazed Krispy Kreme with a wispy yeasty interior contrasting with a slightly crisp sugary shell first coated in the same glaze as the buttermilk but then with an additional layer of flavoring – each delectable but most impressive the Pistachio with subtle smoky notes and bits of crushed nut for texture; easily on par with the best baked breakfast goods I’ve had in Chicago and well worth both the $3 and getting out of bed early enough to avoid the line.

With sightseeing consuming much of our first day a second snack stop on this trip to Chicago was another relative newcomer to the scene – this time in the frozen variety from Black Dog Gelato, a small shop in the Ukrainian Village that wasn’t necessarily “on our way back” from Oak Park, but a relatively short detour hopefully well worth it for those of us with an eye for esoteric ice cream flavors. Oft raved by local gourmands and sourced by local chefs for their dessert menus it was with luck that we not only found Black Dog to be unbusy, but also that we found free parking right next door.

With twelve flavors on rotation and three young ladies working on cookies and house-whipped cream in the back it was without delay that we were greeted and with The Shins playing overhead our smiley server suggested to “let me know if there’s anything you’d like to taste” before we even made it to the counter; and taste we did, making it through ten of the flavors before we finally decided to order three small ($4.75) cups with two flavors in each and a clear predilection for sweet meets savory.

Beginning with the one flop, at least to me, Mexican Hot Chocolate was simply one of those flavors that worked as a small bite but when served in quantity proved to be not only overwhelming but damned hot. Creamy and textural to be sure it was just too much on its own, but vastly improved when mixed with Salted Peanut – a mellow and smooth flavor somewhat akin to the inside of a peanut butter cup but far more buttery. Moving on to “safer” but delectable options, Butterscotch Bourbon Pecan and Pistachio would both taste very much like their namesake ingredients with the Butterscotch tasting largely like a southern-style pecan pie rendered into a silky dense gelato. Finally, amongst the more interesting and challenging flavors, Goat Cheese-Cashew Caramel and Sesame Fig Chocolate Chip would prove most delightful – particularly the sesame fig chocolate combination which was equal parts sweet and savory, smooth and crunchy but a bit less dense than I’d have expected from gelato – perhaps a good thing considering the amount of eating we did on this trip, but overall enough to make me say I appreciate what Black Dog is doing but I wouldn’t go out of my way for it at such a high price point.

For our finally mid-day bite in Chicago – this one on day two – we opted for an older member of the culinary scene that I’d actually walked into once prior during the Renegade Art Fair but neglected to buy from due to the line; Wicker Park’s own Alliance Bakery. Again scoring free parking and making our way to the shop with ease as hipsters and families alike dined on the sunny patio a stop at the window was mandatory first simply to witness the masterful cakes ranging from Green Eggs n’ Ham to Macaron towers to three tiered wedding cakes.

With the doors open letting in a cool breeze (and letting out the wonderful smells of butter and vanilla) we next made our way in to see what Chef Peter Rios and a team of youngsters (both in the kitchen and at the counter) had on display and after a few tough decisions we emerged from the shop to enjoy our choices on the patio.

Beginning first with the French classics, my mother selected two Macarons – one Blueberry Cheesecake and the other Passion fruit chocolate – both textbook in texture with a crackling shell giving way to lovely filling, but the Passion fruit Chocolate so cloyingly sweet that between two of us the $2 cookie went unfinished. Thankfully the Blueberry Cheesecake fared much better.

Moving next to two of the standards by which I judge a bakery my aunt’s and my selection were a Red Velvet Cupcake and the Dulce de Leche Bread Pudding. Beginning first with the cupcake, a $3.50 selection with good notes of cocoa and a tangy cream cheese frosting started out with a good base, but was unfortunately a bit dry – so much so that when my aunt took a bite the back half fell off landing directly on her chest; a comedic event to be sure, but not exactly the way a cupcake should be remembered. Moving next to the Bread Pudding which was served in a small tin topped with a sugar lacquered strawberry and powdered – it was dense and it was sweet, no more and no less but thankfully only $2.50.

With sightseeing, breakfasts, lunches, snacks and bites shared with the family while dinners were either with friends (NEXT) or flying solo (Avenues,) both nights of the trip would see me reconvene with my mother and aunt after dinner for dessert – a sweet ending to an evening pizza for them and a third or fourth bit of indulgence for myself (but who’s counting?) – and on the first night our target after drinks and bites at Aviary would be a place my aunt had always wanted to visit and a place that had for too long flown under my radar; Mindy Segal’s newly renamed “Mindy’s Hot Chocolate” on North Damen.

Described by optimists as an upscale café with great desserts and by detractors as an “overpriced urban bistro” with savories lagging far behind the sweets our trip to the four time Beard Award Nominee’s flagship admittedly came with a bit of warning – namely that the place can be wildly inconsistent, loud, and that after 9:00pm seating could be tricky – and after once again finding free parking (clearly our lucky day) we walked through the front doors to find two out of three to be true instantaneously; the place was deafening and our options for seating included the lounge or “about an hour for a table.”

With a quick glance to the ladies and a brief browsing of the depleted pastry case we elected for the lounge not only because it seemed quite and comfortable, but also because the clock was pushing 10:00pm and we’d not yet even checked into our hotel and without hesitation we were led to a cozy corner with long leather benches and appropriately low lying tables complete with silverware, candles, and water glasses that were filled without hesitation. Greeted next by our server, Laura K, we were asked if we’d ever visited before and on stating we had not she explained to us that each “dessert” was generally composed of two to three different items and we were left to decide – a process that took no time at all as we’d already researched the online menu en route to Chicago.

With orders placed and service appropriate but largely separated from the lounge throughout the evening the first item to arrive was a prerequisite given the restaurant’s name and although not quite as transcendent as that at Jacques Genin or LA Burdick the Black and Tan Hot Chocolate made of 1/3 hot fudge and 2/3 medium cocoa hot chocolate was certainly rich, creamy, and entirely too much for one person (especially after a full day of eating.) Sharing it around the three of us it was interesting to hear different impressions – all positive, but each catching different notes in the chocolate from vanilla to honey to fruit.

Moving on to the proper desserts – each priced at $11 – my mother’s choice was the restaurant’s signature “Chocolate #1(64%)” featuring a warm chocolate soufflé tart topped with salted caramel ice cream and a tuille of housemade pretzel; an exercise in balance and every bit worthy of its acclaim. Beginning first with the tart – hot, molten, and bitter – sure the concept of a lava cake is played, but as long as it made with great care and better chocolate it really doesn’t matter, especially when it is matched with extra sweet yet subtly saline ice cream and a crunchy salty sourdough pretzel for texture.

Moving on to my dessert, a seasonal option titled “My Honey Pie” and featuring “warm and luscious honey pie with honey-roasted peanuts, honey caramel, berry-rose syrup, graham cracker and ‘PB&J’ Ice Cream Sandwich this dish was another winner, but a case where one less ingredient could have been more. Beginning first with the pie – I love honey, I love peanuts, and I love caramel so it is needless to say that the warm gooey amalgam poured inside a thick buttery graham cracker shell had ‘had me at hello’ even before Segal crash landed a peanut butter and grape jelly ice cream sandwich directly into it. Already with a lot going on – fruit, honey, sweet, savory, hot, cold, gooey, and crunchy – the unfortunate aspect of this dish was not knowing when to quit, specifically in reference to the cloyingly sweet syrup whose perfume did nothing but distract from the pie’s nuance even though it was present in only a small quantity.

For the final dessert, my aunt’s (and the one I’d have ordered had she not,) “O’Dan-A-Banana” featuring a ‘nilla puddin’ icebox cake with ‘nilla wafers, cocoa nib ganache, vanilla bean pudding, bananas foster sauce, and a chocolate phosphate was everything I’d hoped for when planning to visit Hot Chocolate and then some. Beginning first with the phosphate – it was a textbook old school chocolate soda with a bit of extra thickness from the cream and although sweet the slight sour from the phosphate proved a perfect foil to the other half of the plate; a cake that would have been more appropriately described as a horizontal mille-feuille with alternating layers of thick banana pudding diving crispy house made wafers doused with caramelized banana chunks in a hot boozy sauce plus a bit of extra chocolate for good measure – all in all the best dessert I’d taste on this entire visit to Chicago.

With the bill paid and people still continuing to file in even as we exited the restaurant around 10:30 we thanked our server and again made our way to the street where a short drive would land us at our hotel exhausted, full, and happy to have experienced Segal’s intriguing concoctions even though not all were perfect and despite the fact that our ears were still ringing as though we’d just been to a concert as opposed to a restaurant (okay, slight exaggeration.) That said, having now experienced the scene at night I’d definitely not hesitate to return for brunch to see the savory side of the menu – and to try those brioche doughnuts the girl at the table next to us was eating.

Moving on to our final non-meal bites of the trip, the second night’s dessert setting would feature one of Chicago’s elder restaurants – The Atwood Café located inside the classic Reliance Building – a fitting end to a day that saw us spend most of our time downtown browsing Chicago’s iconic architecture from The Rookery to The Watertower and a distinct opposite from the loud cutting edge scene of the previous night at Mindy’s Hot Chocolate.

Making our way into the small restaurant by way of the hotel we were greeted first by tuxedoed door men and then by a friendly host named Patrick who would additionally act as our server for the evening. With the hour again past 10:00 we were told the main menu was no longer available and confirming that just desserts and coffee was our intent we were led to a nice four top in the middle of the heavily draped and upholstered room where we found both silverware and menus continuing the robust art-deco theme. With water poured and coffee offered and accepted by myself it was little time before our decisions were made and with a jovial “all the best choices” Patrick disappeared only to return moments later with both water refills and coffee warm-ups and once again ten minutes later with our dessert selections.

Without a bad sounding selection on the menu, the first dessert – my mother’s – would be the most “plain” yet at the same time perhaps the most intriguing, a dish called Buttermilk Pie with Huckleberry Compote. Described as being fashioned after something the pastry chef’s mother used to make at a diner down south and somewhere between tangy custard and sweet panna cotta baked into a soft shortbread crust this simple pie was topped with pan reduced huckleberries bursting with their juices and a dollop of whipped cream that served more to smooth than to sweeten – all in all this was diner food dressed up and down-home delicious.

Moving next to the more complex menu options, my aunt’s choice for the evening would be Red Velvet Cookie Dough with Goat Cheese Icing and Beet Puree – clearly another southern inspired dish, but this time reconstructed from the ground up with dollops of what literally tasted like chocolate chip cookie dough touched with cocoa and cream beneath inverted ice cream cones and resting atop a thick and tangy cream cheese. With the earthy flavor of beets both spread across the base of the plate and lacquering the inside of the cones this dish was far less sweet than what most folks would expect from Red Velvet (as popularized by the cupcake craze) but actually much more interesting though I must admit the texture of the cookie dough did get to be a bit much at times.

Rounding up the trio with my choice, a choice that would have been a no-brainer on any menu in America for me, Fig Bread Pudding with Lemon Basil Sorbet and Chantilly Cream was every bit as good as anticipated…or at least the Bread Pudding and Chantilly Cream were. Beginning first with the pudding – to be fair it was less bread pudding and more a traditional English Steamed pudding rich with both creamy and fibrous bits heavily accented with notes of honey, cinnamon, and brown sugar, but semantics aside it was great, especially when paired with the light and smooth Chantilly plus drizzles of honey fig sauce on the plate. Loving the bulk of the plate and really rather indifferent to the sorbet I’ll only note that while it didn’t really “hurt” anything, the sweet and savory concoction certainly did not compliment the dish in any conceivable manner and would have likely been served with another dish while pairing something more fitting with the pudding.

With no pressure to leave as Rat Pack standards played overhead we sat for a while enjoying our desserts while I sipped my coffee before Patrick would stop by again to make sure all was well and suggest we request the bill “whenever we were ready.” Another cup of coffee later and at this point not really making much difference in my fatigue the bill was next collected and paid with a sizable tip and after declining a cab since we’d driven we made our way to the streets which, save for the elevated train were largely quiet, and with my mother opting to drive I fell asleep almost the moment we got into the car – a well earned food coma if I do say so myself.

Posted in Alliance Bakery, Atwood Cafe, Black Dog Gelato, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Chicago, Coffee, cupcakes, Dessert, Doughnut Vault, Hot Chocolate, Ice Cream, Illinois, Macaroon, Souffle, Vacation

June 7, 2011
8:57 PM
by: Uhockey

Durgin Park, Boston MA

For my very last meal in Boston I took a chance on Durgin Park; sure its location, reputation, and fame screamed “tourism” but then again how could a space in operation since 1827 not be? With a sign reading “Established before you were born” and street performers, kiosks, and crowds dominating the exterior I will admit my skepticism on approaching the only restaurant my mother remembered visiting in Boston 30+ years prior but something told me to press on if only for nostalgia factor.

With my plane leaving at 8:05pm my arrival at Durgin Park would occur between lunch and dinner and while the streets outside were bustling the restaurant itself would prove largely uninhabited. Greeted first by a man at the bar and then by a hostess in a long Quaker-style dress I was given the option of sitting indoors or on the patio and although the weather was gorgeous the loud crowds outside and desire to see the aged interior led me to choose the upstairs indoor dining room – an area that would turn out to be completely empty throughout the duration of my seventy minute visit save for the cooks and servers arriving and preparing for dinner service.

Seated at one of the myriad long communal tables near the open windows with ceiling fans churning overhead I browsed the heavily wooden and tile room for a bit before my server, a nice young woman named Shively approached with a pitcher of water and the restaurant menu. Expecting the gruff attitude some say that Durgin Park encourages from their servers I’ll note that I received no such behavior but rather smiles and “you’re welcomes” throughout the meal and with the full pitcher of water left on the table refills were never an issue. With the menu filled with “traditional New England-style” options and a focus on that which is broiled, boiled, or fried accompanied by side dishes largely reserved for Thanksgiving dinner in the Midwest I weighed my options for a bit before making my decisions – an order declared “all the classics – good choice” by Shively.

With the restaurant reportedly functioning with “one chef and only a couple servers” due to my time of arrival I was told it would take “about half an hour” to put my order together but with plenty of time before my plane was to arrive I had time to waste and set to reading the extensive beer list and a small book about Durgin Park’s history while I waited. Expecting the whole order to take thirty minutes I was surprised when Shively returned with my first course less than ten minutes later; Clam Chowder with Oyster Crackers and Corn Bread with a pat of butter. Beginning first with the cornbread – nice firmness and a touch of sweetness, plenty toothsome but unfortunately a bit dry even with added butter. Moving on to the chowder – definitely a step in the right direction and much more as I’d expected from the clam chowder in New England – thick, creamy, loaded with potatoes and clams – but unfortunately just a bit too bland, a situation I remedied by adding the salty oyster crackers which definitely helped.

TTFiI/AAAAAAAAJ2k/yU9etvkt970/s1600/049%2B-%2BDurgin%2BPark%2B%25287%2529.JPG">Smilie: 8OTTFiI/AAAAAAAAJ2k/yU9etvkt970/s320/049%2B-%2BDurgin%2BPark%2B%25287%2529.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631050880239474210" border="0" />

Moving on to my main course which would indeed arrive approximately thirty minutes after I placed my order, Baked Boston Schrod with seasoned Breadcrumbs, Boston Baked Beans, and Butternut Squash was two hits and one epic failure. Beginning first with the miss – the butternut squash – a soupy unseasoned mess that I can only imagine being palatable to babies; it honestly tasted like chunky water and had someone in the kitchen tasted it I cannot imagine this dish being sent out. Moving on to bigger and better, first off were the beans served in a small bowl and bursting with flavor. Soft without being mushy, fibrous without being chewy, sweet while still savory, and all with a light undertone of pork filling the palate. Last but not least, the Schrod with seasoned breadcrumbs reminded me strongly of the battered Yellow Perch my grandmother used to make during summers back in Ohio – flavorful and light, flaky and delicate, and great alone but better with ketchup.

With the schrod all gone and my feelings about the squash noted by the still full bowl dessert would arrive quickly on the heels of my main course. Ordered at the start of the meal as to avoid delays and essentially the impetus for my visit in the first place, “Indian Pudding” would appear in a bowl much larger than anticipated and as a fan of bread pudding, pudding in general, polenta, cornbread, maple syrup, and cinnamon the dish really had no chance to fail. Steaming hot and absolutely slathered with quickly melting vanilla ice cream this was exactly the sort of dish I’d hoped for – a dish that could double as breakfast, dessert, or a side dish with minimal difficulty and absolutely loaded with texture, nuance, and sweetness; sure it isn’t going to win praise as the most attractive or artistic dessert out there, but for me it just might have won out as the most utterly satisfying.

With the bill paid – an admittedly steep $40 after tax and tip – and more smiles and thanks from my server I made my way to the top of the stairs where the chef yelled to me from the kitchen to ask me how everything was. Responding that everything was good (I didn’t have it in me to complain about the squash after the Indian Pudding) he asked where I was from and stating “Ohio” he responded “yeah – ya ain’t going to find Indian Pudding there” and thanked me for coming in even though he didn’t have to; the thanks was mine to give for sending me home from Boston on such a fine note.

Posted in Boston, Cornbread, Dessert, Durgin Park, Massachusetts, Vacation

June 7, 2011
5:06 PM
by: Uhockey

Rino’s Place, Boston MA

For my very last 3/4 day in Boston my agenda finally had nothing to do with the conference but rather with seeing the New England Aquarium – the last remaining “Top 10” aquarium left on my United States list – and visiting some of Boston’s more touristy, famous, and well-known spots. With an early run and morning visit to Mike’s Pastry already completed by 6am and 8am respectively my arrival at the Aquarium would precede the opening of the doors and with small children and tour busses arriving only after I’d been there for more than two hours (seriously, the little blue penguin exhibit and central tank alone justify the cost of admission) the visit was one of the best in recent memory…and at this point the day had only just begun.

With logistics conveniently planned and with Droid-based Googlemaps in hand a quick walk from the aquarium to the Blue Line toward Wonderland would lead me to East Boston, a place some had told me to avoid, but a place that nonetheless contained a restaurant I didn’t feel I could afford to miss – a restaurant featuring Zagat food ratings on par with O-Ya at a bill less than 1/8 the price and a restaurant that was often known to sport 2+ hour lines at dinner despite its location – Rino’s Place.

With the Blue Line surprisingly efficient compared to the Green or the Silver and maps thankfully accurate my departure from the aquarium at 10:30 and a quick walk would have me at the doors of the 25 year old family owned red sauce joint just moments after the doors opened and aside from a small sign outdoors and a large poster of Guy Fieri within the “Place” was about as unassuming as it gets. Watching Food Network and similar programs rarely (if ever) and having never seen Fieri’s show that made Rino’s the phenom it has become I surprisingly entered the small ~50 seat space with only one other couple already present and after being encouraged to sit wherever I like I was presented with the menu, wine list, and a glass of water by my server – a tall bald fellow who knew everyone (and was likewise known by everyone) who entered the restaurant that afternoon except for myself.

Asked if this was my first visit I affirmed the suspicions to which I was bid “Welcome – the specials menu is gonna take a bit, but if you need anything just give me a holler – bread will be up in a minute” and with that I sat and relaxed at my white tableclothed table sipping my water and listening to the kitchen while the specials menu was hand-written in great detail. With windows to my left and a large mural to my right it would be a good twenty minutes before the menu was completed and in the interim I placed an order for an appetizer while the restaurant slowly filled to capacity.

With tip-top service throughout the afternoon and water that never reached less than half empty the specials menu took a bit of time to navigate but once my full order was placed it would be mere seconds before the meal would begin – first with a simple house salad topped with zippy house made Italian vinaigrette (the alternative option being an enormous helping of rigatoni with red sauce that could have easily served two, as was ordered by my neighbors who opted against waiting on the specials menu and had their full meal in front of them before the hand written menu was complete.)

With the salad relatively straight forward and now knowing the rumor of Rino’s portion sizes to be true I slowly ate some greens while reading The Globe’s sports page when a warm basket of sliced house made Italian Bread arrived along with packets of butter. Asked if I’d like “some gravy for dipping” I declined (once again, worried about portion sizes as I’d ordered three different dishes) and with a pat of Land O’ Lakes Whipped Butter as the alternative condiment I will note that although slightly sweet with an ample crunch this is the sort of bread that is made for dipping – not that it was bad, but more that it was a sort of dense carbohydrate sponge that would prove useful as subsequent plates arrived.

Ordering half portions in order to maximize tasting while saving stomach capacity, my first dish to arrive would be a $6 plate of gnocchi described as “homemade potato dumplings sauteed in a fresh plum tomato sauce and topped with fresh mozzarella and baked.” With the dumplings clearly handmade and so light they seemed ready to float off the plate and the blend of slightly sweet yet subtly spiced tomato sauce and creamy cheese providing just the right amount of flavor this “half” portion was easily two-fold the size of an average plate of restaurant gnocchi and served piping hot without suffering from the sogginess that maligns lesser preparations it was substantially better than most, as well.

With the gnocchi plate mopped clean with a slice of bread my next course would arrive with bread of its own and a flavor profile somewhat similar to the gnocchi, but a lot more spice. Titled simply “Tripe” and described minimally as slowly simmered in Fresh Plum Tomato Sauce served with Toast Points I was told that this was one of the “chef’s favorites” and at $6.50 for what was easily half a stomach it again proved vastly better than its price would dictate. Savory, light, rustic, and flecked with spicy notes of black pepper plus pecorino, garlic, and notes of cumin and paprika this was tripe done right and thankfully light despite the significant portion size.

Realizing at this point that three half-portions was enough that dessert probably was not in the cards and unable to resist wiping up the tripe sauce with the crunchy garlic bread my final course arrived steaming hot from the salamander oven and as good as the first two courses was it proved to be the best of the night – and amongst the best rustic Italian dishes my Midwestern palate has ever encountered. Described simply as “Layered Eggplant” and ordered largely on the word of my server who called it his favorite “non-meat” dish on the menu this half-eggplant arrived in three thick rounds pan seared to a supple consistency supported by a fried panko crust and sandwiched around whole roasted tomatoes, layers of fresh mozzarella “from a store just down the street,” and topped with a thick garlicky basil pesto sauce. To say the least it was delicious, to say more would just be hyperbole – if it is on the menu it is a MUST order and at $6 I have no idea how they’re making money on this dish.

Nearly bursting at the mere suggestion of dessert (especially with an early dinner planned before hopping on a plane back to Ohio) my server asked me if there was anything else I’d like and with the restaurant now full with a couple of parties waiting I thanked him and said no, just the check. Full and happy the bill did not hurt my mood with a total of $24 after a nearly 25% tip and thanked as though he didn’t expect such generosity I made my way to the street and back to the Blue line where I managed to avoid falling asleep en route back to Boston knowing that a walk around the Freedom Trail remained on my agenda. Thankful for the weather and even moreso that I’d made the decision to travel over to East Boston for lunch I can wholeheartedly recommend Rino’s Place and given the quality to price ratio I can even say that it might be worth the hour-long waits.

Posted in Boston, Bread Basket, Food, Italian, Massachusetts, Rino's Place, Vacation

June 6, 2011
11:05 PM
by: Uhockey

No. 9 Park, Boston MA

While many touristy stops such as Durgin Park, Mike’s Pastry, Pizzeria Regina, and Union Oyster House come to mind when thinking of the Boston dining landscape there is perhaps no other location (save for the currently closed Olives) as significant as Barbara Lynch’s No 9 Park in terms of putting Boston on the “fine dining” map. Sure fancier restaurants have entered the dining landscape in recent years (Including Lynch’s own Menton) and some suggest that the Beacon Hill location is not what it once was, but with Chef de Cuisine Patrick Campbell still serving many of the dishes that won Lynch attention from Food and Wine, the Beard Awards, and countless other publications en route to beginning her empire I thought the old townhouse would prove a fitting close to my first exploration of Boston’s world of haute cuisine.

With reservations made well in advance and a request for a table with adequate lighting having heard that the space could become considerably dim I approached the unassuming building at 9 Park Street mere moments before my 7:00pm reservation and with the Bruins first NHL Finals game in nearly twenty years about to begin the city was electric. Entering the small doors and greeted by a friendly young man at the podium I was told it would be a few moments before my table was ready and asked if I’d like to take a seat in the lounge while I waited. Never really a fan of this tactic as I could see a few open tables to my right (including the one I’d be sat at fifteen minutes later) I consented to the request and after declining cocktails twice and having my water knocked over by a tipsy elderly gentleman I was finally rescued from purgatory and shown to my table hoping that the night would improve substantially from here on out.

Making my way through the low ceilinged room the noise from the bar quickly dissipated and with deep wooden floors and ancient crystal chandeliers above I suddenly understood the comments about the lighting and realized there really was not a seat with “good lighting” save for those nearest the large windows looking out into the street – the two-top of which would be mine for the evening. With padded wooden chairs, thick double linen tablecloths, crystal, and silver the room was one that felt formal without being stuffy and old without being dull. Greeted soon by the sommelier I was offered a wine and cocktail menu which I perused but declined and moments later I met Matthew – a young charismatic server who would provide not only great service throughout the evening, but also interesting stories of the restaurant and substantial knowledge of the menu.

Having acknowledged my interest in some of Lynch’s classics I will note here that the menu at No 9 Park is not exactly the most intrinsic in that there are two options – a tasting or a prix fixe, but for the tasting two of Lynch’s “classics” as well as cheese come at an additional supplemental charge of $15 each. Never one to skimp and finding the night’s tasting quite favorable save for the main course of beef it was without question that I was allowed a substitution of the main and opting for the full tasting with all three supplements the night began quickly without an amuse, but instead with the first of many warm house made Buttermilk Biscuits with creamy unsalted butter.

Beginning the tasting my first menu course would arrive and while I personally feel it would have been better suited as an amuse it would not have been very good either way. Titled “Striped Bass Crudo with fava beans, green garlic, crème fraiche” this two-part presentation featured a tasty ceviche at the left and a terrible tartare to the right – flavors so dissimilar I actually found it hard to believe they came from the same fish. Beginning first with the crudo, the bass was clean, smooth, and nicely matched to its accoutrements while the tartare tasted fishy, nearly “pickled,” and downright sour from the crème fraiche. Not wanting to judge too quickly I will note that when Matthew returned to find 3/4 of the tartare still on the plate his inquiry as to whether I enjoyed the course was answered honestly (and apparently reported as such to the chef.)

Moving on to bigger and better things, course two would be more of what I expected from a restaurant so highly regarded and once again it would arrive as a duo on a single plate. Titled “Dayboat Sea Scallop with potato mille feuille, chanterelles, baby leeks, and mushroom puree this clever dish featured a beautiful caramelized scallop to the right and to the left an equally attractive round of creamy potatoes that looked nearly identical. Pairing each with savory leeks and woodsy mushrooms I really enjoyed this dish and in all my times fine dining I have never seen this playful trick before.

For my next dish I was served an ingredient I don’t traditionally fancy that was prepared so well that it didn’t even matter. Given the option to swap this course when I asked for a different main course in place of the beef my decision to keep Stinging Nettle Gnudi with ricotta, smoked veal belly, and sage was based largely on Lynch’s roots in Italian cooking and thankfully while the veal was a mere undertone the five creamy orbs of Gnudi were immensely flavorful with notes of sage, smoke, and salinity all in perfect balance.

Beginning the supplemental dishes it seems crazy to me that one should have to “add” the restaurant’s most famous dish and it seems even crazier that one would ever consider not doing so. Ordered with all intent to pay the $15 surcharge but instead served “on the house” due to my displeasure with the bass “Prune stuffed Gnocchi with foie gras, almond, and vin santo” was the perfect marriage of two of my very favorite foods and the sort of dish where although the portion size was ample I could have easily eaten it all night. On one hand intensely sweet from the potato dumplings wrapped around prune preserves and on the other smooth and savory with a gossamer finish from the liver the true brilliance of this dish was actually the vin santo sauce bringing both together while bits of crunchy almond added texture.

Not to be outdone by the gnocchi, my second supplement was an absolute steal for a mere $15 as it featured an easily 3-4oz slice of pan seared Hudson Valley Foie gras perched atop “baked fig en croute” and alongside dollops of pistachio puree and drizzles of reduced port. Clearly intended to be served as a one-two punch with the gnocchi this dish was every bit as delicious but nearly the exact opposite in texture with the liver more firmly cooked and the figs still fibrous in their skins beneath the flaky pastry shell. Less reliant on the sauces for balance than were the gnocchi I will note that while I enjoy foie gras paired sweetly the port was almost too much in this preparation while the pistachio puree was creamy, subtle, and restrained.

Continuing the hit parade with another of my favorite ingredients, “Native farm egg with house made sausage, spinach, and truffle brodo” was essentially a soup or broth that I’d have normally expected earlier in the menu but given the heft of its ingredients it also served as an appropriate sixth course. Arriving as three overlapping rounds topped with shaved summer truffles tableside this hearty amalgam first featured a disc of cooked spinach topped with a creamy golden egg, and finally by a pan seared slice of crispy sausage. Running the gamut from vegetal to creamy to savory to earthy this was a well crafted dish even with the truffles less aromatic than optimal.

For my final course in place of the beef I was served, by request, Peking Duck Breast with confit leg, baby root vegetables, chestnut puree and sour cherry. Having gotten somewhat used to the complex flavors of aged duck breast during recent dining experiences (namely Paris and the night prior at L’Espalier) this fresh preparation was surprisingly tasty and although a bit “chewy” the skin was immaculate and crisp thanks to what I was told was a few hours of brining in soy, sugar, and Chinese Five-spice. Moving past the breast to the molten confit and the sweet/savory balance of accoutrements on the plate I really liked the way each ingredient seemed to pull a different flavor from the duck – particularly the cherries which highlighted notes of cinnamon and clove in the crispy skin.

With the cheese cart arriving tableside next I will fully admit I was stunned by Matthew’s knowledge of the selections as most servers Stateside can barely pronounce the cheese let alone describe its province, notes, and their personal opinions on it. Again suggested as “on the house – Chef Campbell feels bad that you did not enjoy the bass” each cheese was described at length and after some debate I opted to allow Matthew to choose and as such was served Monte da Vinha, Tomme de Chevre au Muscadet, and a phenomenal Cow’s milk cheese titled Dom Villas from Portugal with notes of grass and spice enrobed in a silky texture and a rind with crystallized bits. Served with the cheeses were a plate of accoutrements described as honeycomb crunch, grapes, hazelnuts, wheat toast, and peanut butter apricot fig terrine – the latter of which was spread on a buttermilk biscuit to great effect.

Moving on to desserts I can only say that it is rare for me to be impressed by savories and let down by sweets but that is exactly what happened at No. 9 Park. Arriving first and declared a palate cleanser Cherry Soda with Shiso foam was precisely as described – a bit bubbly, plenty tart, but no better than the cherry limeade at Sonic (at least so far as my memory of 5-6 years ago serves me.)

Arriving quickly on the heels of the palate cleanser, “Native Strawberries with Saffron, Vanilla, and Lychee” would definitely prove more interesting than the cleanser with the strawberries served in three forms – frozen, cooked, and raw – beneath a gelatin infused with saffron and a dollop of vanilla cream smoothing out the citric punch of lychee sorbet. Tasty and interesting I cannot say this was a bad dessert, nor a boring one, it just wasn’t my style and it was far too similar to the Soda and Shiso in citrus/berry composition to serve an ample closing to an otherwise well designed and diverse menu.

With a table of lawyers behind me checking the Bruins score frequently and the local team winning in a landslide I sat and finished my water while debating coffee until Matthew arrived with my check and some mignardises – a Raspberry gelee on shortbread and a chocolate mousse with chocolate ganache that saved the day for those of us who prefer our desserts laden with cocoa, caramel, or nuts. Requesting a menu and paying the bill I thanked Matthew for the excellent service and en route to the hostess stand to gather my bag I was met by Chef Campbell who wanted to “personally apologize for the tartare – I think we may have gotten a bit of tail meat in a couple the servings tonight” – a very nice gesture that although totally unnecessary was a classy touch.

With bag collected and a cab easily hailed within seconds the drive back to my hotel was a long one due to traffic leaving the Garden but with windows down and a cabby born and raised in the area the scene and conversation were lively and memorable and having heard where I’d just dined my driver informed me that No. 9 Park was the very place he and his wife had celebrated their 20th wedding anniversary 8 years prior. Asking me if they should go back for their tenth I hedged my bets and said it was certainly worth considering both for the nostalgia and the food to which he asked “Do they still have that gnocchi? Its one of the best things I’ve ever had!”

Posted in Boston, Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Massachusetts, No. 9 Park, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation

June 6, 2011
5:46 PM
by: Uhockey

Eastern Standard Kitchen, Boston MA


When I arrived in Boston my Monday lunch had originally been unscheduled; on one hand I figured I’d be getting a bit worn down by the conference by that point but at the same time I did not want to marry myself to anything specific in the event that I was not…at least that was the plan until I ate at Island Creek Oyster Bar two days prior and walked by their sister restaurant Eastern Standard en route to Fenway the same day. Having already heard about Eastern Standard from locals and duly impressed by Owner/Chef (and L’Espalier trained) Jeremy Sewall’s approach at ICOB I checked out the menu and called to make reservations along with a “if possible” request that would turn out to be quite possible.

With the best lectures of the day largely pooled in the morning hours and Eastern Standard featuring lunch, dinner, and “mid-day” seatings (and menus) I scheduled my reservation at the very end of lunch and arriving at 2:20 I was right on time. With the restaurant 95% empty save for a couple at the bar and a few folks on the patio when I arrived I was greeted first by a pair of hostesses (who would actually be interviewing new wait staff during my visit) and told I could sit anywhere I liked. Opting for a table near the patio but protected from the sun I was seated at a nice marble two-top table with vintage leather chairs and next visited by Ksenia, my omnipresent server, who would present the lunch menu and descriptions of the daily specials, charcuterie, and soup.

Wanting to sample broadly from the eclectic menu and having already confirmed that my special request from the dinner menu could be accommodated at lunch I sat and decided for a few moments and after being told the stuffed dates were sold out my order was placed, water was filled, and I was left to soak in the nostalgic feel of the room and music while I waited watching folks walk by on Commonwealth. With Dean Martin overhead and a red vinyl couch and pictures of Marilyn Monroe to my right it would not be long before Ksenia would appear at my table with my first bites of Eastern Standard’s cuisine – a small plate with five half slices of Whole Wheat Sourdough and smooth unsalted butter. With fond memories still lingering of the impressive bread and butter at Island Creek I will merely note that this bread was a bit of a letdown only for that reason, otherwise it was serviceable table bread served warm and baked in house.

Opting for three appetizers as opposed to an appetizer and a main course my first dish to arrive from the kitchen was my request from the dinner menu and delivered hot with golden brioche “match sticks” Pan Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Rhubarb and Fennel Cream was a very good preparation with sweet and savory holding one another in check while also each complimenting the delicate liver in entirely different ways. Ample in portion and equally in flavor I’ll note that while I personally would have benefitted from more of the golden brioche this is a minor quibble I have pretty much everywhere except places where it is replaced anew during the course of the dish…..and even then I really can’t say no to more brioche.

With the foie gras as good as hoped it would be a bit of a delay, perhaps 25 minutes of reading my conference books, before my second and third plates would arrive – one excellent, one not so much. Beginning first with the daily charcuterie plate with mustard, cornichons, and pickled onions the days selections on the bargain $14 board would be Coppa, Salami, Prosciutto, Duck Rillets, Lamb terrine with mint, and Veal tongue – all excellent examples, but particularly the rillets and the veal tongue which were both a bold balance of spices, salinity, and texture.

Having noted my disappointment with the accompanying dish I will note a caveat in that when I mentioned the issue – namely overcooked egg and undercooked sweetbreads – it was replaced immediately and not only was an apology offered, but the dish was comped as well…but unfortunately it still was not all that good. Titled Frisee aux Lardons with Hazelnuts, Sweetbreads, and Poached Egg this salad certainly had all the makings of a great dish, but unfortunately the gaminess of the sweetbreads when combined with too heavy a hand with the vinaigrette led to something muddled, heavy, and simply lacking the balance I’d hoped.

With my primary target of the afternoon being a dessert (even more so than the Foie Gras) my order was placed without need for a menu and when delivered I knew immediately that this would be one of the highlights of the trip. Described as “Butterscotch Bread Pudding with Praline Ice Cream and Salted Caramel” and delivered as a steaming hot square absolutely smothered with liquid caramel the only way to sum up this dish is with the Def Leppard lyric – “I’m hot, sticky sweet.” With the pudding thick and creamy, the caramel salty and smooth, and the ice cream retaining its temperature by clever placement atop a thick praline this was everything a pan-style bread pudding should be and one of the best I’ve ever tasted.

With caramel, foie gras, egg, pork, and sweetbreads now competing for stomach space my server arrived once again to ask me if there was anything else I’d like and joking that a nap would be nice I was cleverly oriented to the fact that Eastern Standard was attached to a hotel (something I’d have never guessed as it certainly does not feel like a “hotel restaurant”) and with the bill paid I thanked the team and made my way outdoors for a nice walk to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts to see the Chihuly exhibit. With my last dinner of the trip still to come I can without a doubt say that for a place marketing itself as a “kitchen” or “bar,” the food and service that Eastern Standard is offering is certainly more befitting of a proper restaurant and one well worth a visit for those traveling to Boston – especially for dessert.

Posted in Boston, Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Dessert, Eastern Standard, Eastern Standard Kitchen, Foie, Food, Massachusetts, Pork, Sweetbreads, Vacation

June 6, 2011
10:03 AM
by: Uhockey

Parker House Restaurant, Boston MA

With the first lecture of the day scheduled to be a good one I got up for an early run at 5:00am on Monday June 6th so that I could have a proper sit-down breakfast at a Boston landmark before the meeting and having already put ten miles of pavement under my feet by the time I arrived at The Omni Parker House I had thankfully worked up quite the appetite. With many (luckier) conference attendees apparently staying at the Parker House the room was full of familiar faces and nametags when I arrived and despite the early hour the classic grand dining room was already over 1/3 full. Approaching the hostess stand and requesting a table for one I was asked then if I’d be enjoying the buffet of a la carte and stating I was as yet uncertain I was offered a table close to the buffet so I could peruse the options.

With the room seemingly unchanged from its mid-19th century origins I was led past high ceilings, oil paintings, wood paneling, crystal chandeliers and hand carved molding by the hostess before reaching a comfy two top near the wall. Asked if I the seat was acceptable I agreed that it was and with that I was left to browse the menu and the room where John F. Kennedy spent many a nights. With the seats posh and the linens thick I will certainly agree with some that the room felt dated, but at the same time there are certain places in history that only need a little maintenance to maintain their charm.

Greeted next by my server my water was filled and I was offered coffee – a bold nutty brew that I often had to stop the bussers from “warming up” because the nearly continuous flow was throwing off my sweetened balance. With the online menu already browsed and the buffet underwhelming a quick perusal of the paper menu and a single question (with a surprising answer) confirmed my order and with that my server disappeared to the kitchen returning moments later to be sure my coffee was filled.

With my question being whether I could order the Parker House rolls as a side dish for breakfast and her answer being that I could simply go up and “take a couple from the buffet – but wait for them to come out warm” I took my cue when a young man carrying a tray of croissants, muffins, bagels, and rolls walked out to replenish the stock and with a small plate in hand I did just as I was instructed while also procuring a tablespoon of butter and a dollop of honey. With the rolls golden on the exterior and warm and soft with notes of yeast and sweetness within I will note that although good these certainly weren’t the quality of the gems that Eric Ziebold is making in DC, but at the same time it is hard to say that something is “better” than the original since, by definition, the original is how it is “supposed” to taste.


For my main course the decision came down to sweet versus savory and as usual the sweet won out when all was said and done. Arriving perhaps fifteen minutes after my order was placed and served hot from the griddle, “Banana Pecan French Toast with sliced Banana, Pecans, Apple Butter, and pure Vermont syrup” was an absolute knockout and despite my adherence to the house classics otherwise it was not only the best dish of the meal, but also the amongst the best breakfast items I had on my visit to Boston. With the toast itself featuring that all-too-rare balance of golden crispy exterior and custard soft center the dish was only improved by the addition of warm sautéed bananas, crushed pecans coated with cinnamon, and a substantial pile of apple butter that was more like apple whipped cream than butter. Finally, though the plated selection was already stellar the addition of an ounce of liquid gold from Sugarman of Vermont only served to gild the proverbial lily.

Working slowly on my main course while sipping my coffee my server asked if I’d like my next course readied to arrive while I enjoyed the French Toast and agreeing to this it would be mere moments after I finished before my dessert (yes, dessert at breakfast after a dish that could have easily served as breakfast) would arrive – predictably the Parker House’s original Boston Cream Pie with two layers of moist sponge cake divided by smooth pastry cream and topped with chocolate and almonds with a hint of rum. Often imitated and frequently duplicated this was perhaps as good as a traditional Boston Cream Pie can get and while I must admit a preference to the more elaborate version at O Ya two nights before it is, like the rolls, a matter of taste; and you really can’t argue with a place willing to serve a single serving cake for breakfast either.

Happy and satiated I sat for a bit while drinking yet another cup of coffee and hoping that the caffeine would overcome the pending crash after my pancreas caught up with the glucose load I’d just consumed. With the time drawing on 7:30 and the conference due to begin at eight I next requested my check and with it would receive one last sweet taste from the kitchen – a post meal palate cleansing shot described as a Strawberry-Banana yogurt cooler; tart, fresh, and delightful.

With the bill and my thanks to the server paid I soon made my way back through the grand room to the lobby where I browsed the classic yet understated interior of the hotel for a few minutes before taking my leave through the golden doors where a young man immediately offered to hail me a cab. With the offer declined and taking to the street I was greeted by the morning sun, Old City Hall, and more of the Freedom Trail as I made my to the conference center arriving just on time for the first lecture. With the lights not yet dimmed I found a seat near the middle of the pack where I’d ironically I’d find myself sitting next to an elderly physician I’d seen eating at the Parker House – a physician who would ask “Was that Boston Cream Pie you were eating for breakfast?” and to which I responded happily “Yes…but the French Toast was better.”

Posted in Boston, Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Massachusetts, Omni Parker House, Parker House Restaurant, Vacation

June 5, 2011
11:52 PM
by: Uhockey

L’Espalier, Boston MA


As one of the earlier East Coast members of the “farm to table” revolution and a regular amongst the “best of” lists in various local and regional publications dinner at L’Espalier was the easiest dining choice I made in all of Boston. Of course I’d heard the rumors that Frank McClelland was spending less and less time overseeing the operations of his flagship restaurant since migrating near the Mandarin Oriental Hotel but under the well trained hand of Shane O’Neill I had little doubt the of the kitchen’s capabilities and given the local sourcing of many of its ingredients from McClelland’s organic Apple Street Farm I had no reason to doubt that no matter who was cooking on the night of my meal the food ‘should’ be delicious….and of course a little extra assurance by literally dining in the kitchen didn’t hurt either. Having planned for this to be my longest, most elaborate, and most expensive meal during my trip the necessary contacts were made through Daria Caritano approximately two months in advance and with my time of arrival set to be 7:00pm everything went according to plan as I entered the lobby at five minutes to seven.

With greetings offered by a pair of capped doormen and my reservation confirmed my first stop at L’Espalier was the elevator to the main dining room floor – a ride during which I’d clearly been pronounced to the hostess at the top of the lift as I was greeted by name and my bags were checked before the doors had even fully opened. With the maître d’hôtel soon to arrive and again all smiles and pleasantries I was introduced to at least fifteen members of the staff en route to (and through) the kitchen where I would finally land at a large four-top behind a glass window overlooking the entirety of the kitchen. Seated on a comfortable high stool with padded lumbar support I was next greeted by Chef O’Neill and encouraged to “make yourself comfortable – we’ve got a lot of great dishes planned for you tonight” and with that the maître d’ suggested I remove my coat “because it gets pretty warm” and instructed me on the use of my own private air conditioner.

With the kitchen moving at a frenetic yet focused pace due to two large graduation parties and a rehearsal dinner the next man to greet me would be Shah – for all intents and purposes my own personal server for the evening. A quiet yet knowledgeable man whose tenure at the restaurant dated back to its prior location the only two decisions of the evening would arrive quickly – the first being whether I’d prefer still or sparkling water and the second being the selection of a cocktail or wine to go with my meal. Left with the extensive wine list and slightly less substantial cocktail menu to decide for a moment while my water was fetched I must note that although I generally do not drink the cocktail menu at L’Espalier proved to be one of the most intriguing I’d seen in some time and in the end it was not a matter of deciding whether I wanted one of the $15 beverages but rather which – a decision Shah made easy on me when he affirmed one of the three I’d considered to be his favorite.

With the decisions part of the night taken care of within 10 minutes of seating I was once again left by myself to watch the action of the kitchen and all its chefs, dynamics, dramas, lectures, ebbs and flows – an experience not unlike that in many cooking shows yet vastly more real and interactive as home life was discussed, skills were honed, jokes were made, and in one case a licked spoon re-entering a sauce pan resulted in an entire course being restarted (and extra cleaning duties at shift’s end for the offending party) – to say the least it was an experience like no other and everything that anyone ate at L’Espalier during my three hour meal was mine to observe, question, and enjoy.

With the kitchen (and air conditioner) humming the first item to arrive at my table was in fact not my cocktail but rather a pair of canapés – one a creamy goat cheese gougere and the other a creamy slice of Foie Gras terrine with cherry compote served on a porcelain spoon – both excellent and a sweet/savory pairing that served their purpose admirably to awaken the palate.

With canapés consumed and amuses en route Shah would arrive next with my “Red Sidecar” shaken and poured tableside featuring Myers Dark Rum, Cognac, Pomegranate, and Fresh Orange. Admittedly a lightweight when it comes to alcohol but generally an admirer of rum based drinks when I do opt to imbibe this drink was right up my alley with a lot of sweetness included a sugared rim to balance the woody aromatic blend of cognac and rum.

Arriving shortly after the cocktail and announced as my amuse bouche of the evening Copper River Salmon Crudo with crème fraiche, buckwheat crumble, and caper “caviar” would prove to be not only very texturally compelling, but also quite interesting in replicating the traditional smoked salmon and caviar experience without using eggs or a smoker at all.

Having heard great things about the bread service at L’Espalier I would not be let down when Shah arrived next at my table with a basket of warm house made bread nine slices deep paired with a round of sweet butter with sea salt. With the nightly options consisting of Rosemary Focaccia, Pretzel Roll, Multigrain Wheat, and Fig it was with much restraint that I limited my intake of bread between courses, though I will fully admit to taking only a bite or two of the multigrain while finishing each of the other options and requesting another couple slices of the fig to accompany the selections served with the cheese board later.

Now well settled in and watching the kitchen produce forty orders of sweetbreads for one of the parties while the pastry team sliced an enormous white cake crafted for the rehearsal the tasting menu proper would begin with something I more or less expected considering the city I was visiting – an oyster. Titled “Misty Point Oyster, mignonette, North American Caviar” this relatively straight forward preparation was served shucked from the shell in an elegant double glass bowl with a touch of liquid nitrogen doing double duty as temperature control and special effects. With the oyster itself smooth and surprisingly sweet and the mignonette flavors fashioned by the combination of the foam and the jus this tasty bite went down smoothly with the caviar adding a touch more brine and texture.

With courses arriving on average at ten minute intervals and flawless timing and execution the rule throughout the evening my second course would be one of the most memorable of the night both for its wonderful flavor and for its relative simplicity. Titled Apple Street Farm egg mousse with white sturgeon caviar and featuring a creamy sweetened pudding rife with egg yolk juxtaposed against briny bubbles of caviar it was like Keller’s Oysters and Pearls minus the oyster plus more cream.

Moving through the list of my favorite ingredients the third item of the evening was Butter Poached Main lobster with garlic emulsion, English peas, and ham consommé – a dish prepared a la minute by O’Neill as the team prepared twelve menu lobster courses for one of the parties and in my case pairing a snappy half tail simply with sweet shucked peas, mellow yet heady garlic, and the slightest essence of smoky ham.

Course four would prove to be my favorite of the night and having the opportunity to watch the sous-chef break down six or seven whole lobes of foie gras over the course of my meal I gained a whole new respect for the time and skill needed to make the ingredient shine. This time the same preparation as on the nightly menu, Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras with almond cake, salted caramel and green almond milk foam was one of the best seared Foie Gras preps I’ve had in recent memory with the supple organ meet creamy on the inside and caramelized on the exterior pairing perfectly with the almond sponge and dehydrated nut butter on the plate’s left. Generally preferring my liver sweet to savory the addition of the airy nuanced almond foam and smears of sticky caramel worked beautifully for me, though I will note that for some this dish may have proven “too sweet” for so early in the meal because in all reality it undeniably could’ve been served as dessert and I’d not have complained one bit.

Course five would be another dish that seemed somewhat oddly placed as it functioned almost as an early meal palate cleanser prior to beginning the heftier proteins but having enjoyed meals at places like Alinea and VOLT where the savory sweet savory sweet flow is seamlessly incorporated into the progression of the meal the only problem with “Buffalo milk panna cotta with Tabasco tomato caviar/Ricotta crumble/olive oil gelee, matcha crumble and eucalyptus sorbet, Strawberry watermelon cocktail with strawberry sphere” was that there was simply too much going on for a single plate even if the “plate” was in fact three distinct entities. Beginning first with the ice cream as it was the most likely to melt I will note that this singular fraction of a dish was the only failure of the night at L’Espalier – too minty, too grassy, too potent. Moving next to the Panna Cotta – a huge swing in the other direction – this deconstructed caprese was flawless and tinged with a bit of heat that brought everything together. Finally, the cocktail was molecular gastronomy personified with the fizzy strawberry layer floating atop a thicker watermelon broth containing an “egg” filled with creamy strawberry foam.

With one of the parties wrapping up it was around this time that the kitchen started to slow down a bit and the chefs became more conversant discussing their techniques, sourcing, and concepts while inviting questions. For the sixth course I was served “Georges Bank Halibut with Prince Edward Island Mussels, Parmesan Gnocchi, English peas, and Truffled egg yolk” – an absolutely lovely dish with a portion-size big enough to constitute a main at many a fine dining establishments. With the fish itself faultlessly prepared and featuring a golden sear over-top moist flesh and the hand formed gnocchis nearly the same texture as the mussels this base of this dish was strong with the flavors of the sea while the whole peas, carrots, and pea puree formed a sweet vegetal note mellowed by notes of truffle.

Next up the kitchen would bring the funk and the heat in the form of Veal Sweetbreads, confit ox tongue, pickled shimeji mushroom, and horseradish cream – sort of an upscale charcuterie board with the creamy sweetbreads mildly gamey and the thin terrine of tongue entirely so. Served on a plate that looked like weaved glass and paired with pickled mushrooms and smooth yet spicy horseradish it was not my favorite sweetbread plate of all time, but it was well composed and soundly executed.

With duck always a must order when available my next course would feature Roasted Lola Duck with sweet onion puree, Radishes, and Spring Ramps. Plated simply with duck and jus at one side and smooth puree, bitter radish, and melting ramps at each other this was a no tricks/no gimmicks sort of dish and with the duck clearly aged, approximately 12-14 days in house according to O’Neill, it was exemplary with golden skin crackling to give way to supple rosy flesh – a contender for top five duck dishes I’ve ever enjoyed.

Pronounced as my final savory, course nine of the evening arrived sizzling from roaster after a quick sear on the grill. Titled Herb crusted tenderloin of lamb, green asparagus, and potato with butter truffle emulsion this aromatic presentation was perhaps four ounces of supple loin crusted with an amalgam of spices including but not limited to chives, cumin, and sage paired with a smear of curry, two unique purees both imbued with butter and truffle, plus a small pile of wilted Swiss chard.

With my cheese course announced to arrive next I was a bit surprised (and so was Shah) when a palate cleanser arrived in its stead – an apparent “mix up” from the pastry team, but when the biggest mistake of the evening entails an extra dessert how can I complain? Described as Mixed summer berries, strawberry sorbet, apricot gelee, yogurt foam, and fruit leather “party favor” the young female pastry chef who delivered this suggested I break the leather over the bowl and on doing so the parfait was completed with a topping of house made granola. Tart and tangy but smooth and light this was one of the better palate cleansers I’ve had in recent memory and a glimpse ahead to the welcomed whimsy displayed by the pastry half of the kitchen.

Moving on to the previously promised cheese course (and joking with the pastry team that I’d “obviously need another palate cleanser after the cheeses”) it was plain to see that L’Espalier takes their cheeses seriously as the selection of seven was delivered with a detailed listing of thirty available in house for purchase. Amongst my “Selection Grand Fromage” the options chosen for me by the house included Menage from Carr Valley Cheese, Coupole from Vermont butter and Cheese Creamery, Caccio di bosco from Tuscany, Hoch Ybrig from Zurich, Robiola la Rustica, Epoisse de Bourgogne from Burgundy, and Caveman blue from Rogue Creamery Oregon. A great selection of cheeses ranging from the nutty three-animal blend of Menage to the sharp white truffle tinged flavor of Caccio di Bosco all the way to a stunning briny Epoisse the plate was made all the better by an accoutrement tray of apricots, candied walnuts, pine nut honey, raisin walnut bread and whole wheat slices.

With the savory half of the kitchen now beginning their clean-up for the evening Jiho Kim would arrive with my next course and an unnecessary apology for the “mix-up” with the first palate cleanser declaring the next dish a “palate re-cleanser” of Liquid nitrogen panna cotta with raspberry jus, mango sorbet, and coconut powder. Again with a focus on tart meets tangy but smoothing things our with the slightly savory coconut powder I enjoyed this dishes textural variation a great deal even though at first the nitrogen frozen panna cotta was so cold it actually adhered to my tongue and cheeks before starting to melt.

Beginning the proper desserts I will admit that I’d contacted the restaurant in advance and told them I didn’t want to miss out on two of Joho’s current main menu options (not generally part of the Kitchen Table experience) and graciously they agreed to do both – the first amongst the ten best desserts I’ve ever eaten. Titled “Chocolate banana macadamia bread pudding, crème anglaise; milk chocolate sorbet” and served with with Buddha’s Hand Gelee and milk foam this tall cylinder was presented tableside first and then, with the young female pastry chef running to grab a “bigger knife for more drama,” Shah chopped through the outer edge releasing a stream of crème anglaise laden with hot banana pudding, sweet smooth chocolate, foams, and hard malted milk balls. Texturally complicated and entirely delicious I’d recommend anyone visiting L’Espalier to request this dish in advance.

For my final proper course of the meal, number fourteen, a trio of desserts were offered up on a single composed dish titled “Milk chocolate caramel soufflé, caramel financier, grapefruit gel; Gianduja ice cream” and while the soufflé was light, tasty, and beautifully accented by the salty caramel sauce and the Ice cream was like frozen whipped nutella, the part I couldn’t stop thinking about for the rest of my trip to Boston was that Financier – a delicate little crumb cake that tasted as though the pastry team had figured out how to make bread with nothing but sticky caramel.

With the my plates cleared the mignardises would begin first with a show from Shah in the form of liquid nitrogen quenelles of Orange and lychee Ice creams made tableside. With each tart and tangy dollop causing me to billow a puff of smoke through my nose I will admit that even as it becomes more and more common to use liquid nitrogen tableside I still think it is fun and if you can make it tasty and interactive, why not?

For the final bites at my table a plate of mignardises would arrive featuring a yuzu marshmallow, almond coconut cookie, guava pate de fruit, and coffee and Prosecco chocolates – all good, but none the quality of that financier.

After a chat with the pastry chefs, Shah, and Chef O’Neill about the high points and low points of the meal and a quick tour of the rest of the restaurant (I’d spent nearly three hours there and had never even seen the dining room) which was now empty save for two tables lingering over coffee and dessert I settled the bill and collected a copy of the menu as well as my belongings before making my way back to the elevator in the lobby. Greeted once again by the maitre d’ I was thanked for my patronage and offered a 20% off card for any future lunches at L’Espalier along with a buttery coconut macaron I’d enjoy on the cab ride home.

Having now rambled on at length about the experience I can say without a doubt the food was good and sometimes beyond reproach – particularly the bread pudding, the duck, and the foie gras; all three of which rank amongst my top five ‘must order’ menu items anywhere – and while perhaps not as innovative or “wowing” as places like The French Laundry, Alinea, or Per Se at a comparable price point, the ability to literally sit in the kitchen and interact with the chefs at such a level is something I don’t really feel you can put a price tag on. Was the Chef’s Table at L’Espalier the most amazing of my life? No. Was the meal even the best food in Boston? Close, but not quite. Was it memorable and worth every penny? You bet – and I’d do it again.

Posted in Boston, Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Dessert, Foie, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, L'Espalier, Lobster, Massachusetts, Pork, Souffle, Sweetbreads, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation

June 5, 2011
3:40 PM
by: Uhockey

Mistral, Boston MA

Of all the places I’d marked as likely visits in Boston Mistral’s brunch was the only one that raised some red flags with a few trusted opinions stating it was not worth it, yet aside from being part of a dreaded ‘restaurant group’ never was a reason stated for this opinion save for “Craigie on Main is the best Brunch in Boston.” With the detractors noted but having already pegged Craigie (perhaps mistakenly) for a dinner it seemed senseless to overlook favorable reviews by many national publications because of a couple naysayers and aside from the reviews – both positive and negative – Chef Jamie Mammano’s menu contained pretty much everything I love about big city brunch

.

With reservations made well in advance after hearing the French-Mediterranean bistro could often present a substantial wait at the bar for walk-ins I arrived just on time for my 12:30 reservation and having walked from the convention center in dress shirt, slacks, and jacket I was glad to find the room cool and my table ready when I checked in – what I wasn’t ready for, however, was just how jammed packed the main seating area would be with tables certainly less than an child’s arm length apart and a noise level bordering on the loudest I’d ever experienced in a restaurant with linen and quality silverware.

With my bag checked and reservation confirmed I was quickly led through the lengthy dining room by way of the lounge/bar where Nadal and Federer were battling it at Roland Garros and within moments I found myself at a comfortable two-top covered with paper and within moments my water and coffee were both filled – the water remaining so throughout the meal without fail but the coffee often sitting empty for long periods of time largely because I’m pretty sure the servers simply couldn’t see (or navigate) through the fray. Greeted next by my captain the menu was presented but having already browsed the online options thoroughly and wanting to get back to the conference by 2:30 I opted to place my order without further ado – and to be honest, I think he was relieved since in the course of my 90 minute meal he was the only server besides the water and bread attendants to visit any of the ten tables in my vicinity.

With orders placed and coffee (a smooth but rather boring blend) prepared to my liking I sat back for a bit and enjoyed the high ceilings, slate floors, and ornate lighting while thinking to myself that that if the tables were better spaced and the noise turned down it really could be a lovely and dramatic room – and with that thought in mind I was interrupted by a woman’s purse grazing my temple followed by a quick apology. Slightly annoyed by the ambiance (or lack thereof) thankfully this would be the last glitch of the afternoon as my next interruption was the welcome sort – a young man sporting a tray of warm brioche “coffee cake” muffins topped with brown sugar streusel and a side dish of house made cherry compote and unsalted butter – all lovely, but the butter completely extraneous as the cakes themselves had plenty built in.

Having been told that my order would start to arrive “in about fifteen minutes” and now with two muffins (literally) under my belt I was a bit surprised when my first menu selection arrived after a mere ten minutes – particularly as the menu indicated a fifteen minute wait was to be expected for this specific choice. Titled simply “Warm Cinnamon Buns” and arriving as a pair in a piping hot rectangular Staub cast-iron dish with the creamy frosting still bubbling my first thought was “damn, I over ordered” but after a single bite those thoughts changed to “I’ll make room!” Gooey, golden, loaded with Vietnamese cinnamon, and so buttery that it almost seemed impossible that the pastry itself remained fluffy these were not your typical “Cinnabon,” but rather the sort of cinnamon roll you’d make at home if you had the time.

Working slowly on the cinnamon rolls as I tried to decide if I wanted to eat both considering I had two more courses coming there was thankfully a sizable twenty five minute gap before my next course and thankfully when it arrived I noted the small appetizer price was mirrored by the small portion on the plate and after finishing my cinnamon rolls I indulged in the house made parfait of Hudson Valley foie gras on brioche with cognac cured red grapes – an ingredient list that would have had to try pretty hard to fail. Arriving again as a pair this time with the golden brioche at most two-bites each and the “parfait” essentially a whipped terrine topped with cracked pepper, sea salt, olive oil, and small slices of grape this was a very competent foie gras prep and although small in size the gossamer finish was quite substantial.

With my breakfast sweet tooth well documented my final selection of the morning saw me shun the impressive sounding duck confit hash in favor of the pancakes – specifically the Milk chocolate chip pancakes with banana brulee, hazelnut nutella, and crisp plantains. Arriving after another fifteen minute wait and stacked three high with a sealed container of Vermont maple syrup my first impression on receiving the plate was one of awe – the entire dish smelled like chocolate and nutella though none was to be seen, but with the plate then dressed in warm syrup and my fork cracking through the caramelized banana my answer came quickly as a gush of liquid chocolate poured forth from the steaming cakes. With a side order of golden and buttery Lyonnaise potatoes with rosemary, onions, and chives serving as a counterpoint to the pure sweetness of the pancakes I will simply note that in the end many potatoes returned to the kitchen but not one of the hundreds of chocolate chips remained.

With my table cleared and the restaurant now perhaps half full as the brunch hour neared its end I was asked if there was anything else I’d like and with another cup of coffee the bill was paid and I found myself back on the street en route for the conference center by 1:50pm – perfect timing and now with a breeze coming out of the east bringing perfect weather. Admittedly pricey at $40 with tax and tip I cannot say that I’d frequent Mistral for brunch if I lived locally even though the food was excellent given the noise and cramped seating but at the same time I’d definitely consider going back for dinner sometime when (hopefully) there was less noise and (ideally) equally excellent food.

Posted in Boston, Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Food, Massachusetts, Mistral, Pancakes, Vacation

June 5, 2011
1:18 AM
by: Uhockey

O Ya, Boston MA


Save for the newly appointed Restaurant at Meadowood the only stateside Michelin 3-Star I’ve not yet been is MASA and considering how frequently I visit New York this is admittedly no accident. Call me crazy or call me unrefined but when you grow up in the Midwest the difference between fish here and the fish at almost any costal location is so profound that I just can not fathom spending nearly $500 (and not being allowed to take pictures) on “amazing” sushi when I could be nearly (or just as) impressed by a meal one quarter the price at a “good-to-great” costal sushi spot. With all that said, however, my interest was peaked when review after review and friend after friend told me Boston had something different–that there was a place doing “sushi” in a way that not only featured the freshest fish and designer ingredients but also found a way to make the food and experience something totally different and entirely unlike anything else out there; that place was O Ya.

A frequent reader of Food and Wine plus many blogs and newspaper articles I’d obviously heard of O Ya – it was hard to miss given the fact that the small location in Boston’s leather district had once been named The Best New Restaurant in America by Bruni and owner/chef Tim Cushman had nabbed Food & Wine’s Best New Chef award the same year. With the restaurant seating a mere three-dozen my reservations were made far in advance and even despite my late hour of arrival the place was packed throughout my visit –some folks drinking a bit of sake and eating a couple plates while others opted to indulge in the $250 long-style tasting menu and any combination in between. Having requested a seat at the sixteen stool bar I arrived slightly early for my reservation and greeted by Nancy Cushman and a pair of hostesses my bag was taken and I was led quickly to the seat I would inhabit for the next 160 blissful minutes.

With my seat directly before one of the three sushi chefs and my water filled by an astute young man who would keep me filled to the brim throughout the meal the next person to greet me would be my captain of the evening, Jessica, who presented the luxury tasting menu along with the a la carte menu and a sake/wine list. Explaining to me also that there was the option for a chef’s omakase that could be constructed for $160 and tailored to the diner’s likes while focusing on the restaurants signatures and whatever was most fresh I spent a few minutes deciding and eventually opted for the omakase as opposed to the luxury menu largely because the luxury contained two beef courses, but also because I decided putting myself in the chefs’ hands with the notes of “no beef, but as many foie gras courses as they would like to serve” seemed like a grand idea.

With Jessica returning to the kitchen after a smile and a “good choice,” the meal would start slow as the overhead stereo delighted with Radiohead and Led Zeppelin bouncing about the high ceiling of the former firehouse and as I waited for my first course I would be pleasantly entertained not only by the sushi chefs and action in the largely visible kitchen, but also by the smiles, oohs, and aahs of nearly everyone around me. With dish after dish presenting something new and unique – certainly not your standard salmon on some sticky rice – I watched with great interest as items were torched, sous-vided, grilled, foamed, sliced, seared, and assembled. While not as interactive as many of the sushi bars I have seen, the level of skill was undeniable and during the rare moments when the sushi chefs were not working on a specific plate they were smiling, conversant, and clearly enjoying their clients reactions to the complex flavors of each and every dish.

Seated for perhaps twenty minutes hoping that each impressive creation that passed before my eyes would be included in my menu, my first bite of O Ya was a single Kumamoto Oyster with watermelon pearls and cucumber mignonette. Served on ice and bracing in its sweet/salty balance punctuated by a creamy gush on biting into the oyster this was the sort of raw oyster that even I, a man generally unimpressed by uncooked mollusks, could learn to like.

With the pacing tending towards a new plate every 7-10 minutes my second of the twenty courses would be Hamachi with spicy banana pepper mousse – an intriguing preparation with the lightly torched fish characteristically clean and a bit smoky, but with extra “oomph” added by the acidic sweetness of the pepper that brought out some of the more flavorful notes of the otherwise mild fish.

Noting in advance my overall blasé feeling for both salmon and overpowering citrus flavor, course three would be my least favorite of the night and – to be fair – the only dish out of twenty that didn’t work for me. Titled Salmon with unfiltered wheat soy moromi and yuzu the salmon was reportedly wild caught and actually quite good in texture and flavor; what didn’t work for me however was the bracing fermented wheat and yuzu combination which smelled something akin to waterless hand sanitizer – not a good thing and even with the characteristic heft of salmon totally overwhelming.

With that single disagreeable bite behind me the next sixteen savories would literally serve as a perception altering foray into the world of Chef Cushman and teams’ brilliance – the first eye opener entitled “Warm eel with thai basil, kabayaki, fresh Kyoto sansho.” Served over slightly sweetened rice and indeed warm I was explained that this slice of eel was originally dipped in soy and then broiled prior to a quick pan searing of the skin to create a dramatic effect with the fish crispy on one side and creamy on the other. Not settling for a simple great piece of eel the addition of sansho and thai basil gave the bite an earthy flavor with top notes resembling anise that melded well with the unctuous flavor of the fish.

Next up – a slice of chutoro as thin, fatty, and as perfect as one would expect. Described as “Peruvian style kindai bluefin chutoro tataki with aji panca sauce and cilantro pesto” this was one of my favorite courses of the night and having never heard of aju panca in the past I was told it was a form of sweet Peruvian pepper the chef fancied for pairing with more subtle fishes, particularly tuna, and all-in-all I must say it was an inspired choice acting to not only accent the buttery fish but to also serve counterpoint to the bold flavor of the pesto.

Arriving sixth would be a dish I couldn’t help but hear my neighbors gushing over and although it really did not seem like much at first the moment I tasted “Homemade Russian fingerling potato chip with summer truffle” I immediately understood why. Featuring a single razor thin chip, crisp and buttery as possible and topped with nothing but a bit of chive, crème fraiche, and a slice of truffle this was simplicity done well – chips and dip perfected – all perched peculiarly atop hand formed sushi rice.

Following the chip, Wild Santa Barbara spot prawn with garlic butter, white soy, and preserved yuzu was a relatively straight forward presentation and with the jellied yuzu intensely sweet to offset the punchy garlic this snappy torched shrimp was delicate and flavorful yet nicely balanced with a saline top note from a quick paint-brushing of white soy prior to service.

Reverting back to the first course and amongst my favorite bites of the menu, dish eight would present Fried Kumamoto Oyster with yuzu kosho aioli and squid ink bubbles. An extremely dynamic presentation both to the eyes and to the mouth this morsel featured a single oyster – tempura crisp and buttery outside but liquid, briny, and slightly sweet within topped with a frothy amalgam of tart citrus, a bit of spice, and a lot of brine that permeated the nostrils the moment it entered the mouth and clung to the palate well after the bite was gone. I could have (and should have) ordered an a la carte round of these simply to experience it again.

bF_V0/Tg9WpXOOUGI/AAAAAAAAJo0/zBKc9c7MAP4/s1600/028%2B-%2BO-Ya%2B%252833%2529.JPG">Smilie: 8ObF_V0/Tg9WpXOOUGI/AAAAAAAAJo0/zBKc9c7MAP4/s320/028%2B-%2BO-Ya%2B%252833%2529.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5624809728217337954" border="0" />

Nearing the midway point of the menu, Kyoto style morel mushrooms with garlic and soy was a great followup to the oyster in its earthy simplicity – no tricks, no gimmicks, just an excellent morel with some traditional seasoning and rice – if you like morels you would like this dish and from my standpoint I like morels as much as I like truffles and this meaty specimen wad excellent.

For my next course I was granted a gift – the only dish of the evening not on the menu and described by Jessica as “something the chef has been working with – he wanted to send this out since you said you like foie gras; he calls it Foie Gras spoon with miso and yuzu.” Served as stated on a wooden spoon I’d actually seen something similar to this before at Alinea and on inquiring how it was done the technique was confirmed as the foie was first house cured, then blanched and frozen before being pushed through a sieve and then dehydrated to form the creamy microspheres that melted on the tongue into a creamy pool lightly accented with savory miso and candied yuzu.

Course eleven would arrive on hand-blown glass plate and was titled Shima Aji and Hokkaido Sea Urchin ceviche vinaigrette with cilantro – it would be the heftiest flavor of the evening save for the final savory and also amongst the most refined services of a jack fish or mackerel that I have experienced. With rosy flesh and silver scale plus a ribbon of fat betraying its cold water sourcing the fish itself was slightly sweet and firm yet supple – a truly perfect specimen – but what truly put the plate over the top was the urchin vinegar pairing with the two distinct flavors literally melting into one indescribable taste that only punctuated the complexity of the fish.

With the restaurant now starting to empty as the hour neared 10:30 the soundtrack slowly shifted to some heavier more modern tunes including the Silversun Pickups and Pearl Jam and with that my next course would arrive in a steaming basket. Annotated as “Arctic Char – yuzu cured with smoked sesame brittle, cumin aioli, cilantro” this warmed preparation was uncovered at presentation and with a puff of steam the air immediately filled with a smoky grilled aroma yet the dish itself would be merely warm as the scent lied beneath. Meaty and flavorful, slightly sweet but more so a mélange of spices and a lovely balance of textures from the smooth fish, crunchy brittle, and creamy aioli – another resounding success.

For lucky number thirteen another sashimi course would arrive – this time Kindai Bluefin Tuna Tataki with smoky pickled onion and truffle oil. Another return to more traditional flavors and topped with strings of daikon the tuna itself was as good as one would expect at a restaurant such as O Ya while the savory onion and aromatic truffle oil served to accentuate the more “meaty” tones of the fish.

With the tastes and textures now clearly progressing towards the heavier end of the spectrum my request for a foie gras heavy menu would be realized with three of the last six savories – the first of which was “Seared diver scallop and Foie gras, Shiso grapes, Vin Cotto,” an intriguing “surf n’ turf” served on a nearly eighteen inch long plate. Starting first with the scallop and foie gras my favorite aspect of this dish was the manner in which Cushman chose to prepare them nearly identically – cool at the base and crispy caramelized atop (though the foie was notably sous vided prior to meeting the pan) – a unique flavor contrast to be sure. With the proteins at the centered and minimally adorned the next step in this plate’s success was the ‘choose your own adventure’ aspect of it; an open invitation to explore the nuances of the scallop and liver with toppings including tangy vinegar, tiny grapes dotted with bits of shiso paste, and a thick puree of what I believe was chestnut and spices – this would be the first time in the meal I utilized my fork and knife, largely because I didn’t want it to go to fast.

Next up, “Shiso tempura with grilled lobster, charred tomato and ponzu aioli,” a dish that seemingly took notes from Chef Thomas Keller’s playful manner of undermining the ‘wow-factor’ of lobster by naming other ingredients first, yet in this case appropriate given the impact of the crispy leaf of savory shiso on the dish – an impact that when combined with the creamy ponzu and smoky tomato lent this dish a nearly “BLT” tone with a lot more pizzazz.

Course sixteen would be one of the most talked about on O Ya’s continuous rotation partially because of Bruni’s glowing review of it but also because it really is quite good. Titled Grilled Chanterelle and Shitake mushroom sashimi with rosemary garlic oil, sesame froth, soy and featuring lightly sautéed strips of sliced mushroom tinged with notes of both soy and rosemary for myself the highlight of this dish was actually the “froth” – the very essence of woodsy mushrooms and earth with crunchy bits of sesame punctuating the otherwise creamy and smooth experience.

Originally Chinese but now adopted by Japanese culture as well, gyoza seemed a logical choice for the O Ya menu and if one is going to make dumplings why not fill it with something delicious – and top it with something equally excellent? Entitled Foie Gras gyoza with Kyoto sansho and pink peppercorns, course seventeen would prove to be the most substantial of the meal and also the most spicy. With the dumplings nearly translucent and the creamy filling also used as garnish the sapor of liver was notable throughout, yet by utilizing the peppercorn/sansho/crisp bacon garnish there was nothing simple or one-dimensional about this plate and as a matter of fact despite not generally enjoying a lot of heat this may have been my favorite uses of whole peppercorns ever.

For my “final savory” of the evening I was served Tea Brined Fried Pork Ribs with hot sesame oil, honey, and scallions, a relatively straight forward dish with a pleasant balance of sweet and spice overlying crisp skin, succulent meat, and melting cartilage.

Having noted that the prior dish was my final savory, dessert was next – and it too contained Foie Gras. With a slender glass arriving first and filled with a shot of 13 year old sake the final course of my omakase was titled “Foie gras with balsamic chocolate kabayaki, raisin cocoa pulp, sip of aged sake” and like the rest of O Ya’s signatures it did not disappoint. Perfectly seared and served still sizzling the foie itself was lovely while the combination of raisin, cocoa, and balsamic lent a sweet and aromatic top note that only became more pronounced with a sip of the semi-sweet sake.

With the clock reaching 11:15 my server would arrive to ask if I’d like to try dessert and never one to pass on at least looking at the menu I knew the moment I saw it that the Tres Leches soaked Boston Crème Pie with cocoa crumble and sesame was a must. Priced at $12 and served as a sort of angel food cake with cream filling absolutely drenched in sweet milk and resting atop crumbled chocolate cake laced with notes of soy and cinnamon everything about this plate simply worked. Complex – for sure. The best Boston Crème Pie I had in Boston? Without a doubt – and in a trip that contained a number of stellar desserts it was certainly the most unique.

With the bill paid (well less than half the cost of MASA or Urasawa for those keeping tally) and a menu collected I made my way to the hostess stand after a bow from the sushi chefs and a “thank you for coming” from Nancy and within moments I was tucked into a cab en route for my hotel with not only some great food in my belly and some great memories in my mind, but also a new found appreciation for sushi and a new member of the Top-10 meals I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy in the United States.

Posted in Boston, Dessert, Foie, Lobster, Massachusetts, O Ya, Pork, Sushi, Truffle, Vacation

June 4, 2011
8:19 PM
by: Uhockey

Island Creek Oyster Bar, Boston MA


…on Saturday the Boston Bruins by way of the Boston Red Sox unknowingly threw a big monkey wrench into my well planned trip to Boston. Having visited many of the most storied stadiums in baseball and the most fabled arenas in hockey I knew that the Garden would have to wait until another trip – tickets for game three were topping a thousand dollars and while I know it would have been a great experience I’d only spend that much if it were my Kings in the finals. With that noted, a trip to Fenway seemed like a must for my trip to Boston and with the Sox in town playing the A’s in a 7:05pm start and the last lecture of interest scheduled to end at 5:00pm I knew a quick trip on the Greenline would afford me a pre-game bite at Island Creek Oyster Bar and provided the game didn’t go too long (or if I left early) I could make it back to O-Ya for a late seating. With stubhub supplying the ticket and reservations made my plan seemed perfect…but you know what they say about best laid plans.

With the lecture proving less dynamic than hoped and myself departing early to hop the silverline to the greenline (breaking down only once on this trip) I found myself at Island Creek just after 4:40 and although my reservation was for 5:30 I was greeted pleasantly by the hostess in the bustling bar and within moments was led through the expansive room (easily eight fold the size of Neptine) to a great two top next to the banquet in the main dining room. Still early in the dinner hour there were perhaps three tables full when I arrived though the banquet would quickly contain a group of ten celebrating some sort of business financial success (platters of seafood, plenty of champagne, and clinking glasses abound) and the restaurant would slowly fill to 2/3 capacity by the time I departed fifty minutes later (the rush my decision.) With a wall of oyster shells to my left, the loud bar to my distant right, and plenty of leather, wood, and steel the place felt even more upscale casual than Neptune and the clientele mirrored that with most in buttoned shirts and some in ties and sports jackets.

Greeted by my waitress, a bubbly young woman with a great smile named Jillian, and deferring the cocktail list while she filled my water the daily menu (literally, printed daily, and stamped with the date) was presented and suggestions made regarding what was freshest on the raw bar. Left to decide with the note “I’ll go get you some bread” my decision process was relatively straight forward as I the two items most raved were on the standard daily menu – though I must admit the daily Johnny Cake dish and the lobster with uni stuffing sounded delectable. With my order in mind it was at this point that I became aware of something, however – the folks at the bar were cheering loudly as the Red Sox had apparently just gone up by four in the game…the game I was supposed to be going to in about two hours…the game that had (unbeknownst to me) been rescheduled to a 1:05pm start due to the Bruins.

With Jillian returning to the table with bread as promised and confirming that the game had indeed been rescheduled I explained my predicament to which she was sympathetic stating she’d understand if I wanted to run and see if I could at least use my ticket to get in and see the stadium, but with the game now in the 8th inning I decided to call it a loss and stay; I could always do one of the Fenway tours the following day. A bit disheartened my order was placed and with that Jillian promised to bring “milk and cookies – on the house” as a consolation prize and left me with bread – a basket of pillowy Honey whole wheat paired with salted almond honey butter that was nearly the flavor of sweetened peanut butter and just as creamy – the best table bread of the trip even compared to the impressive pretzel roll at L’Espalier.

With the kitchen upstairs and orders starting to appear for other tables in the restaurant I sat and listened to the light overhead music while checking for missed e-mails about the game’s time change on my phone but my browse was interrupted in less than ten minutes when Jillian returned with my appetizer course of Local Clam Chowder with Hand Dug Clams, Buttermilk Biscuit, and House Cured Bacon. Served piping hot and of medium thickness this creamy potage was everything Neptune’s was not – briny yet balanced, smoky yet subtle, and absolutely chock full of clams and less-so with potatoes. Decorated with three buttery ping-pong ball sized biscuits as opposed to generic oyster crackers this was a soup worthy of its $10 price tag and I was glad to have bread with which to soak up every bit of it.

With the soup sopped it was at this point that the bar groaned – according to my phone the Sox had miraculously managed to give up four in the top of the 9th and the game was headed to the bottom of the ninth and for the first time I thought to myself that maybe, just maybe there was a chance I might luck out and as good fortune would have it my main course arrived just as the game headed to extra innings. Having heard great things about ICOB’s Lobster Roe Noodles but somewhat skeptical given my cynicism for beef I’d decided to take the chance for two reasons – one was that my dining partners the day prior didn’t even remember short rib being included in the dish and the second was that both Jillian and one of the guys at the table across the way stated “you can barely taste it” and although they were wrong in that regard as I certainly coul taste it, the piled high plate was very impressive.

Titled officially as “Lobster Roe Noodles with Grilled Lobster, Braised Short Rib, Pecorino, Chanterelle Mushrooms” and featuring each ingredient in plethora plus sweet green peas the star of this dish was most certainly the house made noodles – briny and smooth, perfectly al dente and the very flavor of lobster roe – yet at the same time, the flavorful amalgam topping the noodles was not far behind in the flavor department with notes of sweet, savory, ocean, and earth all competing equally for palate space. With the lobster snappy, the short rib melting in the mouth, and the sauce somewhere between butter and smoky pan jus there was really nothing left to be desired and although pricey at $27 this was the sort of dish that could have easily served two as a lighter meal.

With two outs in the bottom of the 10th and the game still tied Jillian arrived at my table to collect my empty plate and asked if I was still interested in dessert – a difficult call as everything had been so excellent, but an option on which I deferred first of all because of the game, but also for the sake of my 9:00pm reservation at O-Ya. With the bill settled and a hefty tip left for the great service I made my way to the street and part jogging headed for the stadium where I would not only get in but would also watch one inning from the 6th row behind home plate and the next two from the top of the Green Monster until JD Drew ended it with a single to score Crawford in the bottom of the 14th…the crowd went crazy, I later went to O-Ya for one of my best stateside meals in recent memory, and if I ever come back to Boston I’ll most certainly return to Island Creek Oyster Bar.

Posted in Boston, Bread Basket, Food, Island Creek Oyster Bar, Italian, Lobster, Massachusetts, Vacation

June 4, 2011
2:24 PM
by: Uhockey

Sportello, Boston MA


If someone were to ask me my biggest gripe about Boston the third thing on my list would be the dearth of quality eats around the conference center; numbers one and two are reserved for the confounded green line that breaks down almost every time you’re on it and the fact that their sports teams have won a championship in every major sport over the last ten years while Ohio teams…well, you know. With the conference beginning on a Saturday and myself not at all planning to dine on catered food or the cafeteria-style options of the center, the one recommended spot that was open on Saturday and within walking distance was Sportello, a counter-style Italian themed spot from acclaimed local chef Barbara Lynch. With plans already made to visit Lynch’s flagship No. 9 Park for my final dinner in Boston a quick look at the menu made my decision easy – as a bonus, the standard lunch menu would be supplemented with Brunch items as well.

Arriving at the restaurant early during our lunch break I was slightly confused by the hidden entrance and lack of signage to the point that had I not been looking for the address I’d have certainly walked right past it. Entering the door and climbing the stairs to the sounds of happy-go-lucky 80s pop I was next surprised by how empty the restaurant was – only two other diners present and the staff largely standing about chatting. Greeted promptly I was told I could sit anywhere I liked and making my way through the white and wood motif I selected a spot at the bar closest the open kitchen and with the place-setting serving as one menu I was handed the brunch specials while my water glass was filled by my cheery server, Haley. With time constraints noted given the number of lectures I wanted to see and having already browsed the online menu I quickly made sure the items I’d targeted were available and within minutes my order was placed.

With the restaurant quite quiet save for the music and the sound of the griddle I have to admit that the space was much smaller than I’d expected, but with a bakery in one corner and unique retail items and books near the door I have to admit Lynch’s ability to put a lot in such a tiny space was admirable. Upscale yet casual both in style and in server demeanor I was next asked if I’d like bread to enjoy with my meal and with the obvious answer being yes a plate of moist and dense Scali bread with sesame seeds arrived warm alongside a plate of creamy ricotta, olive oil, and fresh rhubarb compote – a lovely sweet yet savory touch that made me wish I’d have had time to return in order to sample more of the bakeries offerings (or that the bread service at No 9. Park was half as good.)

Having eschewed appetizers and bakery selections instead opting for two main courses – one savory and one sweet – I watched my first plate come together piece by piece as one cook worked the grill and the other the oven to construct Smoked Duck Hash with slow scrambled eggs, root vegetables, potatoes, and griddled toast. A rather standard preparation rendered impressive through the use of top quality ingredients each aspect of the dish was nicely done with the duck smoky and supple and the eggs nearly a buttery porridge in consistency. While I personally would have preferred the vegetables a bit more crispy that was hardly a quibble as the previously confited and subsequently heated cubed carrots and turnips were quite delicious.

For my second course the preparation would unfortunately not begin until I was nearly done with the first and given the duration of its cooking time my planned meal of less than an hour ended up taking nearly 80 minutes. Noting the delay, I can certainly say that the souffle pancake with huckleberry jam, powdered sugar, and maple syrup from Vermont was worth the wait as I watched the whites and yolks folded together then quickly pan seared, flipped, and finished in the oven to create a puffy single plate-sized cake with a slightly crunchy top and fluffy interior very much like a soufflé. With fresh huckleberry jam (incidentally sold in the store) and pure maple syrup finishing the plate this was essentially a $12 dessert well worth the price.

With the bill paid – a somewhat pricey $35 with tax and tip for brunch – and my thanks to the staff I gathered my things and with the restaurant now perhaps 1/2 full as the hour approached noon I made my way back to the street where a quick walk would have me back at the conference center less than 1:45 after I’d left and all the happier for having done so. While certainly not the best lunch/brunch/or meal of my trip Sportello’s location, hours, quality, and service put it in a league of its own in Boston and if there is ever another conference I should attend in Boston I’d return without hesitation for the gnocchi, rigatoncini, or some selections from the bakery.

Posted in Boston, Bread Basket, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Massachusetts, Pancakes, Souffle, Sportello, Vacation

June 3, 2011
11:44 PM
by: Uhockey

Craigie On Main, Boston MA


Walking in to Craigie on Main I must admit I was hesitant; as a matter of fact, for the sake of full disclosure I’ll note that until Chef Tony Maws won the Beard Award for Best Chef Northeast one month earlier I’d been ignoring suggestions to add Craigie to my agenda largely because the menu simply seemed too much like everything else trendy out there these days – offal this, local-regional that, and nose-to-tail porkcentricity. Rarely one to question trusted palates in the cities I visit it was in fact the Beard Award (and particularly who he beat out) that forced me to reconsider my decision and after a week or so of watching the restaurant’s social media feed I decided to give it a go – a quick e-mail to the restaurant assured me that the tasting menu could be ordered by a solo, that they’d avoid a main course of beef or veal, and that a printed copy of the menu could certainly be made available at the meals end; with a full day of sightseeing already scheduled I opted for 7pm and I arrived right on cue.

Greeted at the door by two young ladies, including one I could only assume to be the dining room manager as I later saw her doing everything from delivering plates to taking orders to hanging coats as the place got increasingly more busy, my reservation was confirmed and my bags checked before I was led to a nice (but poorly lit as the sun went down) two-top along the wall. With the room mostly heavy woods and brick plus some off white wallpaper juxtaposing the white tablecloths and quality service ware I actually liked the feel of Craigie save for one thing – the music which when combined with the open kitchen and room full of graduates, families, and parties was one of the loudest I’ve ever experienced.

Seated for approximately 5 minutes before Joseph, my captain for the evening, would arrive my water was filled (and kept nearly filled to the brim throughout) and a menu was delivered by a young woman. With the menu divided into a la carte options, a six course, and a ten course I asked a few questions (largely to make sure that the main course was not beef and that a copy could be provided) and Joseph explained to me that the way the ten course worked was he would ask if there was anything I really liked and/or didn’t want and the chef would craft it from there; thinking this sounded ideal and noting my likes and dislikes I opted for the ten course and things were underway. With the two-top next to me notably requesting the six course (hard not to eavesdrop when everyone is yelling over the din of the room) and the table of six to my left opting for the ten course I will note that although the restaurant was busy service was quite good throughout and descriptions of each dish were detailed – but save for a couple of items it really didn’t seem like the tasting was tailored at all.

Eschewing the custom of amuses and canapés first (more on this later) my meal would begin with cold bread and colder butter to go with my water. Arriving in a basket theoretically covered with a towel to retain heat, the chilly collection of carbohydrates consisted of two pieces each of sourdough, demi-baguette, and cereal bread – all decent, the cereal bordering on good, but none memorable and all done a disservice by the mundane unsalted butter.

For my first course of the night (little did I know that at Craigie the “ten course” is actually only seven courses as they count the palate cleanser, sorbet, and amuse as part of the tasting) the item listed as the “amuse” on my later printed menu was noted as Three Seafood Preparations: Tartare of Citrus Cured Halibut with Sea Trout Roe, Squid Noodles with Nuac Cham Vinaigrette and Crispy Garlic, and Smoked Sablefish Rillettes with Hackleback Caviar. Served as three single bites in a sectioned porcelain dish and progressing left to right in terms of complexity and depth of flavor I will note that each taste was flavorful and interesting, particularly the squid, but none were anything new or novel and the singular theme of fish and brine did not really do much to prime the palate for other tastes or textures.

Arriving literally on the heels of my amuse, the second course was listed on my printed menu to be Yellowfin Tuna, but from my pictures, notes, and memory the Salad of Scallop Sashimi with Pickled Mango and Red Onion Salad, Avocado-Lovage Puree was certainly not tuna – nor was the it for either of the tables neighboring mine. Again no more than a bite in terms of overall size, this second course was certainly more interesting than the amuses with the flawless mollusk sliced linearly into two creamy rounds and paired delicately with soured mangos and sweetened onions. Texturally complex and utilizing the lovage’s bitter qualities to touch all parts of the palate this was a dish designed to be an amuse both in size and in scope.

At this point keeping pace with the surrounding tables receiving the same dishes, course three would feature Line-Caught Striped Bass with Iraqi Beet Stew, Fresh Florida Rock Shrimp and Farro Verde and upping the ante both in size and in flavor this course was a knockout. Beginning first with the bass; the flesh tender and moist due to olive oil poaching and the skin crispy from a kiss of the pan I can sincerely say it was perfect – one of the best slices of bass I’ve ever had. Paired with sweet shrimp, smoky cubed beets, and a locally sourced toothsome green spelt this would prove to be my second favorite savory of the night.

Plate number four would be the only place where my tasting differed from the six course to my right and one of two places where it would diverge from those to my left (yes, that means the “six course” turned out to be 9 of the 10 I received as part of the ten course – though I will say the couple was celebrating an anniversary and were clearly known to the house.) With the table to the right lingering over the bass and that to my left receiving a whole family style hamachi collar to share, my plate would include Crispy Tempura of Soft-Shelled Crab with House made Cole Slaw, Preserved Lemon, Pickled Peppers, and Squid Ink Anchoiade – a dish I see has subsequently been added to the a la carte menu. With the soft-shell nicely prepared in panko but relatively par for season and the amalgam of slaw, lemon, and peppers tasty but rather benign the high point of this dish for myself was actually the black anchoiade with the potent flavors of anchovies and garlic serving a nice foil to the sweetness of the crab.

Described as “the pasta course,” dish five included the House Made Rye Flour Straccetti paired with a Ragout of Ham, Peekytoe Crab, and Mousseron Mushroom, but in all reality it might as well have been described as “wet noodles with ham puree” because that was truly all you could taste and although it tasted fine, I’d have much preferred something a little more subtle, or perhaps just an order of the rigatoni with chicken confit and chicken liver mousse from the a la carte.

My sixth item of the tasting menu would be a successful venture into the seemingly decreased number of offal courses compared to previous menus and although the couple to my right sent more than half back because they did not enjoy the texture, I personally found the Braised Veal Sweetbreads with Hom Shimeji Mushroom, Bok Choy, Hakurei Turnip, Ramp Kimchee and Almond Butter to be the most successful course of the evening. Delicate, creamy, and approximately the size of a jumbo egg with a nicely crisped exterior the gland itself needs no further description – it was applause worthy. What made this plate so successful from my vantage, however, was the Asian theme imparted by fibrous mushrooms, melting bok choy, and an interesting turnip something like a water chestnut bathed in a broth both sweet and savory, smooth and acidic all at the same time – the best use of the night’s bread service was actually mopping this plate clean.

For my final savory, myself now one course ahead of the table of six who was enjoying another shared course of chicken in place of the sweetbreads, course seven would be Vermont Pork Three Ways with Spice Crusted Rib, Grilled Belly, and Morcilla with Sorrel Coulis, Pea Tendrils, Radish, and Grilled Ramps. Large in portion and more so in flavor with protein plated to the left and vegetables to the right this is one situation where I can say the vegetables save for the tasty crispy ramps were extraneous save for visual contrast and appeal; the star here was invariably the swine and each of the three presentations (literally) brought something different to the plate. Beginning first with the rib – smoky, rich, and fibrous, next the belly – crisp skin and fatty supple flesh, finally the blood sausage – bold, heterogeneous, and full of spice – it is no wonder Maws’ kitchen is decorated entirely in shapes of the pig, he clearly has a great love for it and understands its preparation thoroughly.

Still somewhat perplexed by course six (little did I know the amuses were included actually making the pork course seven) being announced as my “final savory” in a ten course progression, my next dish featured Pink Grapefruit Campari Sorbet and Champagne Foam – a bitter little bite I could have certainly done without, and all the more frustrating when I realized this palate cleanser was actually course eight.

“For your dessert course – Bourbon Pecan Ice Cream Tart with Sea Salt, Smoked Mexican Chocolate Sauce and Bacon Pecan Crust” said my server mere moments on the heels of the sorbet and with that I was offered coffee (declined) and left to enjoy what would actually be a pretty remarkable dessert. Served essentially as a long thin sliver of buttery boozed up ice cream studded with candied pecans atop a savory crust and beneath a ribbon of salty chocolate ganache the tart itself was great but what really put it over the top was a smear and a dollop of chipotle and cinnamon spiced chocolate that added a whole other layer of complexity by bringing the other flavors to an peak on the palate.

For my tenth course of the night I was presented a rather innocuous “Greek Yogurt Foam with Red Beet and Blood Orange Granite” – slightly tangy, a bit earthy, and plenty citrus I certainly preferred it to the sorbet. Along with this course my captain would present to my table for only perhaps the third or fourth time of the evening and when he asked me how everything had went I simply stated “it was alright” and when he asked “just alright?” I inquired as to why the six course and ten course were so similar both in length and composition to which he confirmed my suspicion that the table next to me were “friends of the house.”

With the room still loud but starting to fade as the hour approached 9:30 the check was delivered along with two small macarons described as “Chocolate Almond Tobacco” and although their dry texture was not ideal the flavor was certainly intriguing. Also delivered with the check was a comment card, something I always take the time to fill out whether good or bad but especially in this case as it came with check-boxes a long note from Chef Maws requesting feedback. Of course, since Joseph had also forgotten to pass along word of my desire for a printed menu I had a good fifteen minutes to fill out the card and as such became rather wordy – mostly praise but also noting that while some dishes shined others disappointed, especially in the setting of a “ten course menu” when four courses could have been served as amuses or palate cleansers rather than proper courses.

Having now been up for nearly twenty hours I settled my bill and with menu in hand I made my way to the door where my bags were gathered and within moments I found myself in a cab en route for the South End. Having spent a good portion of the day eating I most certainly was not hungry, but at the same time I also wasn’t terribly satisfied with my visit to Craigie on Main either. Sure some of the courses were good – as a matter of fact, some were excellent – but for $150+ I tend to expect more from a Beard Award winning chef…and when I returned home to Ohio perhaps I found out just what I should have expected and received in the form of an apology and offer from Marjorie Maws stating “…ff course we’re upset that you weren’t blown away by our food. Here’s a possible explanation (but definitely not an excuse.). You came in at a time when there are lots of out of town visitors who are here for one of the many graduations in the area. We learned a few years ago that many of these diners were not as adventurous as our local crowd and so we made the menu a little more “normal” for a couple of weeks. We do, however, still have several “funky” preparations available and our servers are instructed to ask where each party is on the “funk scale.” It sounds like that may not have happened in your case and, if that’s true, we are terribly sorry. May I offer you a gift certificate for a return visit to Craigie so that you can enjoy our full range of our selections? Again our apologies and we really appreciate your feedback. We can’t wait to cook for you again!”

I’ll also note that since that visit the online description detailing the “Ultimate Craigie Experience” has been truncated from ten to eight courses while the sample menu itself still lists the same ten courses I received. While I can’t say my first visit to Craigie on Main was my best in Boston all things being equal I’d definitely be willing to give anyplace that classy a second chance and on my next visit to the North East I shall.

Posted in Boston, Bread Basket, Crab, Craigie on Main, Dessert, Ice Cream, Macaroon, Massachusetts, Pork, Sweetbreads, Tasting Menu, Vacation

June 3, 2011
6:49 PM
by: Uhockey

Neptune Oyster, Boston MA

I’m just going to come right out and say it – the hour plus wait at Neptune Oyster (even at lunch) did not make a whole lot of sense to me. Sure the oft raved restaurant has a fanciful location in the touristy North End, sure the seafood is fresh and somewhat uniquely presented, and without a doubt the place is too small for its popularity – but really, is it THAT much better than the rest of Boston’s oyster bars and purveyors of fresh seafood? Well, for my first true sit-down meal in Boston that is exactly what I aimed to find out and joined by two locals who had been there a number of times I can only say I’m glad we had appetizer pizzas at Regina before braving the nearly 80 minute out the door line.

Owned and operated by Jeff Nance and featuring a mere 44 seats including the raw bar my first impression on entering Neptune was probably the first impression everyone has – sardines – as in “packed in there like sardines;” to say the least this place is a tight squeeze. With that consideration noted, my second thought on walking past each diner en route to our table was “that looks good – that too – oh, and what is that;” in other words, the product they are putting on the table looks outstanding even from afar and the restaurant smells nothing like an “oyster shack” but rather like the upscale bistro that it is – a bistro of bivalves if you will.

With the paper menu already perused during our long wait it would be a short time before our server, a pleasant young man with an astounding knowledge of the myriad types of raw oysters and other seafood combinations on the menu, would arrive at our table with glasses of ice water. Not an enormous fan of raw oysters myself but pleasantly seated with a direct view into the kitchen I listened as the province, flavor profile, and texture of each oyster was described and within moments one of my co-diners had selected a half dozen that would arrive shucked on ice and by then the rest of our order was decided and we were left with perhaps a twenty minute wait during which beverages never reached less than 1/3 empty.

Noting already that service was extraordinary throughout our meal, I will note that the small kitchen’s pacing was unfortunately less so – an issue for myself particularly as I ordered a warm appetizer and warm main course with both delivered simultaneously leading to a conundrum as to which would suffer from the air conditioner blowing directly over our heads. While our server noted that this “shouldn’t have happened” even as he delivered the food and tried to make up for it by granting our request for a sample of the a la minute clam chowder it unfortunately did happen and the thin milky lacking both salinity and texture really did not make up for a lukewarm $25 main course.

With my co-diners having already visited Neptune a number of times in the past one of them decided to try something new while the other opted for his tried and true; the first a Vitello Tonnato sandwich with roasted veal, tuna tartare, cucumber salad, and spicy wasabi mustard and the second a plate of seared Georges Bank Scallops with Braised Pork Shank, Sienna Farms Root Vegetables, Brussels Sprouts, and Chanterelles. Graciously allowed to taste a couple bites of each I’ll note that despite my feelings about veal/beef in general, the Vitello was actually much more like a creamy and subtle tuna tartare sandwich than veal – as a matter of fact, if anything the veal mostly served to make the standard tuna seem more textural and fatty; toro-esque if you will and while I personally feel a heftier bread would have helped, it was still quite good. Moving on to the scallops – they were almost so good that they made me regret my order as the caramelized scallops married perfectly with the slightly sweet pork while the root vegetable and chanterelle combination did likewise with the caramelized Brussels.

For my selections, save for the timing issue alluded to above, the flavors at Neptune Oyster remained spot on for both appetizer and main course – the first, the house special Neptunes on Piggyback. Described as “Crispy Oysters, Berkshire Pig, Golden Raisin Confiture, Pistachio Aioli” and served beneath greens and atop toast these lovely plump oysters arrived perfectly crisp on the exterior and briny and sweet within. Paired with the tasty shredded pork beneath, sweet raisins, and a splash of acid from the aioli I personally could have done with more oyster and less bread considering the price, but all things being equal this was a surf n’ turf combination done quite right.

For my main course – well, I simply couldn’t resist the hype; especially after we’d waited for so long and it seemed everyone in the place was ordering one. Described simply as “Maine Lobster Roll with toasted roll, hot with butter, fries” and checking in at $25 all I can say is that the parts I was able to eat hot were everything you’d expect from hot buttered lobster – no more and no less. Ample in portion and with the bread nearly saturated with butter while still holding its form I only wish more places in Boston served their lobster rolls in the manner as opposed to cold with Mayonnaise. Was it worth $25? Probably not, especially as I was not wowed by the fries – but it was quite tasty and prepared perfectly with a great meat to bun ratio and plenty of butter.

With the check divided and paid our exit from Neptune would be almost precisely one hour after we entered the door and even then the wait time for those leaving their name at the door remained “an hour to an hour and a half” and all things being equal I’d say the experience and food was worth the wait at least once – but looking back in retrospect on my trip if I were a local I’d probably not return anytime soon unless I lived in the neighborhood given the quality, size, convenience, and reservations system of their new competition near Fenway – Island Creek Oyster Bar.

Posted in Boston, Food, Lobster, Massachusetts, Neptune Oyster, Vacation

June 3, 2011
3:08 PM
by: Uhockey

Bakeries and Bites, Boston MA

Prior to early 2011 it seemed as though Boston would never quite top my ever growing list of places to visit; an incredibly historic city with a culture quite unlike any other it was a place I knew I wanted to see someday, but one way or another it never quite achieved “destination” status until my profession made me an offer I couldn’t refuse – the 2011 Endocrine Society Conference at the Boston Convention Center. With CME as the backdrop and literally hundreds of lectures distributed across the four day conference I knew the days would be long and full of education and networking, but seeing as how the conference did not see fit to serve meals (meals I’d have avoided anyhow) I also knew that this would prove a great opportunity to explore Boston’s culinary scene; and with the conference/travel/hotel paid for well in advance and nearly six months to plan explore I did with 12 restaurant meals and 11 experiences I’d qualify as “ancillary eats” in between.


Beginning first with my snacks, the list spread over the course of five days and included destinations ranging from Cambridge to the South End, pastries of American, French, Japanese, and Italian heritage, ice cream and “Fro-Yo” both, hot chocolate, plus the North End’s elder statesmen of both pizza and arancini – to say the least I cast my net wide and with the added benefit of a local tour guide for my first day the only thing holding me back was stomach capacity, something I thankfully have a lot of.

Beginning first with the pastries, my very first taste of Boston was not a cream pie or a lobster tail, but rather something more rustic from the ironically named Modern Pastry Shop, a full-service cash-only family owned Italian bakery just down Hanover Street from the more famous Mike’s Pastry. Strongly recommended by national publications and respected palates alike it was with good fortune that I arrived mere moments after they opened their doors and with shelves fully stocked I asked the pleasant young clerk what she recommended – an question to which I received nearly a bakers dozen suggestions from her and one overwhelming suggestion for the Sfogliatella from an elderly couple sitting down to enjoy their pastries with coffee and a newspaper Knowing at this point that my first day in town would entail no less than eight stops (it actually turned out to be nine) culminating with a ten-course tasting at Craigie on Main I decided the better part of valor was to heed my elders advice in addition to the two standards by which I judge an Italian bakery.

With my selections boxed and bowed despite the fact that I ordered my options to dine-in I parked myself at a seat nearest the window and while the world walked by dressed in Bruins Yellow and Black I indulged, first on an authentic filled to order Sicilian Cannoli. True to form and filled just prior to service as they are in Italy my bite was greeted with an excellent crack as the buttery pastry gave way to sweet, slightly textural, and entirely delicious ricotta filling. Not to be outdone, my second selection was a traditional Italian Baba highly recommended by the clerk. Opting for the vanilla custard filled version with a cherry on top this dish was the antithesis to the sweet and crunchy cannoli with the light sponge heavily laden with rum and Strega providing a boozy herbal tone mellowed by the sweet cream. To put it lightly both options, the options by which I judge the quality of an Italian bakery, were textbook.

Moving next to the sfogliatella I really didn’t know what to expect; sure I’d heard of the Neapolitan classic but in all honesty I’m not sure I’d ever even seen one in person let alone tasted one. Served warm and appearing somewhat akin to a croissant but at least thrice as dense this traditional Italian pastry was indeed layered and flaky, but what was inside was quite unlike anything I’d ever tasted before. Reportedly made with “yellow cream” and semolina and featuring a mouth-feel somewhere between mascarpone and ricotta with hints of lemon, orange, and cinnamon this nicely nuance treat was surprisingly light on the stomach despite its considerable heft and additionally – well – it was fantastic, just like everything at Modern Pastry Shop and well deserving of the glowing recommendations.

Having already mentioned Modern’s more famous competition, Mike’s Pastry, another morning would see me visit this North End favorite in a state of flux. Having heard of slightly rude service dissuading some while slightly stale pastries turned off others my plan was to arrive early – before the crowds had time to wear on the staff and while all was fresh – and while the latter was a success the customer service aspect was foiled by a pair of issues, namely a broken air conditioner and the city of Boston jack hammering the sidewalk out front in order to pour a new one (apparently unannounced to the owners.) With the service prompt yet gruff as the owners and clerks wondered aloud how anyone was even going to be able to see they were open let alone enter the shop once the pouring began my order was placed quickly and $17 later I was seated at the table enjoying breakfast with more treats for later boxed to go.

Having already noted my standards two of my selections were no surprise to anyone – the first a Rhum baba nearly 1.5x the size of that at Modern and while equally flawless in texture and creamy balance so boozy that I’d be surprised if it contained less than a shot and a half of rum in addition to the Strega – to be fair it was delicious and quite similar to some of the best I had in France, but at the same time it likely would have been better served after 8am. In addition to the Baba, my other breakfast choice was something novel – a delicacy titled “Boston Bocconotti,” essentially a cream puff masquerading as a Boston Cream pie…or perhaps a portable Boston Cream pie – but either way a lovely balance of sweet vanilla cream housed in a crunchy pate a choux style shell and dipped in semisweet chocolate with a white chocolate drizzle.

Turning toward my second standard bearer, and certainly Mike’s most famous item, I must say that with more than a dozen options there was no way I could simply select one Cannoli and in the end I opted for three. Well aware of the fact that Mike’s Cannoli’s were pre-filled as opposed to the a la minute style served at Modern my expectations were appropriately tempered – especially as I waited nearly 2 hours after ordering to enjoy mine – but in the end I came away duly impressed both by the flavors and the textures which, while not as crisp as Modern, were still better than 95% of my previous cannoli experiences. With my choices including chocolate cream dipped in chocolate chip, ricotta with hazelnut, and peanut butter mascarpone I will note that given the wetness of ricotta this was certainly the least crisp of the trio and for those looking for a traditional cannoli (with ricotta) the better choice would certainly be Modern – but for those looking for more interesting options you could do a whole lot worse than Mike’s – especially if you arrive early enough to skip the line.

Another pastry stop (actually two) during my 110 hours in Boston would be to Japonaise – first the location on Beacon and subsequently the spot on Commonwealth when the first was sold out of our desired items. Having heard great things about both their Almond Croissant and Azuki Cream (and with my dining companions sporting a groupon) our order was straight forward enough with 2 croissants and 4 creams packed and ready within minutes by a pleasant young Californian looking girl…selling largely French pastries…with a Japanese touch.

Beginning first with the croissant – according to some the best Almond version in Boston – all I can say is “really?” Perhaps it was our timing (around 3pm and not eaten until nearly 6pm) or perhaps I was spoiled by my recent trip to Paris, but whatever the reason I was simply unimpressed. With the exterior appropriately crisp and buttery, the “almond butter cream” interior was more like a wet layer of artificially flavored paste that although sweet and tasty enough entirely bogged down the pastry. Fairing better, perhaps due to lesser experience and expectation, was the Azuki Cream – another flaky croissant-style creation this time filled with mashed sweetened red beans and whipped cream. Again quite hefty with the filling – in this case expectedly – weighing down the pastry I actually really enjoyed the savory aspects of this creation and particularly the way the slightly coarse texture married with the impressively light cream.

Continuing on the topic of bakeries and staying on the South End one of my morning stops en route to the conference would lead me by South End Buttery, a spot I’d noted on my morning run the day prior and on review of their website later that day seemed well worth the visit., especially given the early opening hours, focus on “organic, all natural, locally raised and grown ingredients as much as possible” and coffee from Equator.

Entering the shop to the sounds of Radiohead’s “The Bends” and the smells of cinnamon, vanilla, and coffee this was the first bakery of the trip that smelled (to me) like a bakery and although decidedly hipster and aloof, the clerks proved quite helpful and pleasant in gathering my selections, bagging them up, and at the same time putting together a variety of espressos and foamy coffees for other patrons. With the bill paid and a long walk ahead of me a quick stop for pictures was requisite and afterwards I ate some while I walked and saved the rest for later – nothing like an Endocrinologist enjoying a butterscotch scone during a lecture on inpatient blood glucose management – and a superlative scone it was dense and biscuit-like without being dry and absolutely loaded with pockets of butter juxtaposing toothache inducing pools of caramelized butterscotch.

Not to be outdone by the scone, additional options from South End included a dense and moist Sweet Potato Walnut Blondie with hints of cinnamon and vanilla plus just the right amount of sweetness, an almond croissant that was a bit too doughy on the interior but nicely Frangipane nuanced and perfectly golden on the exterior, and finally the best Pecan Sticky Bun I’ve had in quite some time – still slightly warm and gooey in some areas while crunchy and caramelized in others with ample notes of butter and pecan throughout.

For my final pastries of Bean Town I eschewed the detractors and my own feelings about multi-store “chains” and given its close proximity to the conference center opted to visit Flour Bakery and Café on Farnsworth near the Children’s Museum. Again arriving shortly after the doors opened on a Saturday my first impression of Flour was that it felt corporate – like a regional Panera with its polished fast paced service and seats filled with both families and business folk alike. With this idea noted, my next impressions were of the goods themselves as I stood aside assessing the options while patron after patron moved with the ebb and flow of the line.

With selections made and coffee poured, a somewhat astringent fair trade blend I wouldn’t particularly recommend, I found a seat and began first with my traditional choice – an Almond Croissant that would turn out to be not only the most authentic I’d taste in Boston, but also the best with a golden shell that shattered on mastication and a fluffy interior lightly sweetened and subtly kissed with Frangipane. While perhaps not as good as the “average” in Paris, this warm bite was amongst the five best I’ve had to date in the United States, though admittedly the fact that it had just emerged from the oven may have had something to do with that.

For my other options, one eaten en route back to the center and the other eaten during a lecture later, I selected Flour’s much revered “weekend only” sticky bun and a hefty chunk of their admittedly unattractive Chocolate banana bread pudding. Beginning first with the sticky bun – my best advice would be to get extra napkins and a fork if you’re going to go at it warm. Dense, soft, and buried under a mountain of salty caramel and crunchy walnuts the most impressive characteristic was actually that something so sweet could also be subtle with yeasty notes balancing the butter and the toasty walnuts preventing the caramel from being cloying.


With the first two options so good it was with great anticipation that I looked forward to the bread pudding – my favorite style of dessert – but unfortunately it would be a bit of a letdown. Bearing in mind that this particular iteration was pre-made and served cold when I generally prefer my bread pudding hot from the oven, the biggest issue in my disappointment was actually that the chocolate was too dark for the quality of the bananas and the bread too absorbent for the amount of cream – in other words, I might as well have been eating a dense chocolate cake as opposed to bread pudding made with chocolate and bananas. Now, keep in mind that for a chocolate cake this was a pretty darned good one – it just wasn’t what I expected when I ordered bread pudding.


Moving past bakeries – at least to an extent – another famous space to make my not-so-short-list in Boston was LA Burdick, largely for their renowned hot chocolate, but also for what a friend told me was the best Cannele he’d experienced outside of Europe. Featuring what they describe to be only the best imported and local ingredients and located not far from Harvard’s campus in Cambridge my senses were ignited the moment I entered the door – wall to wall chocolates and candies, dark woods and subtle music, and a friendly young man offering me a delightful fig and port-wine chocolate. Already contented a mere minute in the door I proceeded to browse the myriad selections before progressing to the back of the store where I was again greeted warmly and after a few moments decision (alas, the single source hot chocolates cannot be ordered as a single-shot tasting) I took a seat and waited for my selections to arrive.

Beginning first with the pastry, an authentic Cannelé Bordelais prepared in a traditional beeswax pan, the texture was spot on with the exterior caramelized and crunchy and the interior lightly tinged with rum, vanilla, and what seemed to be a light note of lavender. A tad pricey at $2 I will note that although excellent they were not the best I’ve had stateside – but a top five contender to be sure. Moving on to the main event and unable to settle on a single choice, my hot chocolate selections included one demi service of Dark with a dusting of vanilla and one of White with a touch of nutmeg – both exceedingly decadent, rich, and complex – both the pure essence of their respective chocolates blended with rich steamed milk – and both rivaling the best hot chocolates I’ve tasted both in America and at Jacques Genin in Paris.

With sweets well covered both by the bakeries and a variety of desserts during proper breakfasts, lunches, and dinners another focus of my visit to the North End was Italian savories from two of Boston’s most storied locales, Galleria Umberto and the original Regina Pizzeria. Beginning first, as I did, with Galleria Umberto – to say there are few places like this left in the United States is an understatement and to be completely honest, if you aren’t looking for it there is a fairly good chance you’ll walk right past it without even knowing it is there…and that would be a damned shame.

Deceptively large given it’s demure exterior, Galleria Umberto seems the sort of place that could have existed in 1911 the same way it exists in 2011 (minus the Pepsi cooler) and with doors opening “around 11:00am” (actually 10:40 on the day I visited) there is no doubt this is a spot for the locals as a small line formed within minutes and everyone in line was not only older than fifty, but also a known friend of the clerks. Assuming my place perhaps ten deep in the line and listening to the chatter both in front of and behind me it seemed the “can’t miss” items consisted of the Pizza, the Panzarotti, and the Arancini (already recommended to me by many others despite my overall distaste for beef) but on reaching the front of the line and seeing the considerable size of each option I decided the better part of valor was to select two and with the modest tab paid ($4.56 cash) I took a seat with nearly a pound of food on a silver tray.

Seated amongst the hustle and bustle of the line soon snaking out the door my first bite was the pizza and unfortunately it was precisely what I expected – a doughy Sicilian style pie with slightly burnt cheese and admittedly nicely flavored sauce. While certainly better than the pie at L&B in Brooklyn, it was almost immediately that I wished I’d opted for the Panzarotti instead – it turns out that save for DiFara’s I’m just not a Sicilian style guy. Moving next to the Arancini, a golden orb approximately the size of a tennis ball, it was then that I realized why Umberto garnered so much hype amongst “foodies” – this was dirt cheap street food done well. Part creamy rice, part creamy cheese, a small pocket of nicely seasoned ground beef, and unexpected green peas lending some sweetness – entirely excellent and a great appetizer for what would follow at Regina.

Admitting my gluttony, the meal following my “appetizer” at Umberto would itself serve as an appetizer to lunch at Neptune Oyster, but now traveling with two Bostonian guides my visit to Pizzeria Regina would allow greater sampling; always a plus when it comes to pizza. Arriving earlier than my dining partners and browsing the premises of the establishment that proudly wears its 1926 origins on its sleeve I had to admit it was bigger than I expected, but the hustle and bustle was precisely as billed with patrons entering or exiting nearly every minute. Sitting on a bench while I waited I was grateful to hear the wait was short (“5 minutes for a table, go park the car” in a perfect Boston accent that tickled me greatly) and when my colleagues arrived the wait was zero and we were seated immediately.

With the Bruins the hot topic of the day at many of the tables around us and the restaurant seemingly full of locals as opposed to tourists it was no time before a waitress, abrupt but pleasant enough, dropped off menus and took our orders for drinks – water for myself and cola plus tea for the others – and after a moment of browsing decisions were made to order two pizzas, one plus a single ingredient and the other minus two ingredients (yet we were charged more for it than the loaded as they refused to simply take ingredients off and instead charged the price for a plain plus the desired toppings.)

Having noted the rather old-school style of service I will note that water remained full throughout the meal and although smiles and pleasantries did not abound, I certainly didn’t find the service any worse than expected for a bustling pizza parlor and within twenty minutes our two pies landed on the table hot and bubbling – the first a combination of Mushrooms, Onions, and Green Peppers over top a thin (requested “well done”) crust with plenty of crunch, spicy tomato sauce, and briny mozzarella. While certainly not my style with the onions and peppers the slice I did try was quite good and I particularly enjoyed the crust – crispier than New York style, yet appropriately yeasty.

For the other pizza my choice was the Fior Di latte Pomodoro with added Artichoke hearts and although I really wish I’d have asked for my crust well done, the toppings and balance of mild Fior de Latte with fresh torn basil and sliced tomatoes in addition to the sauce was tremendous, particularly in areas where the cow’s milk mozzarella pooled to form creamy pockets only serving to highlight the quality of the toppings. Was it the best pizza I ever had – certainly not, but it was quite good and I imagine that had I ordered the Pomodoro with a well done crust it could’ve been stellar.

Rounding out the supplementary bites of Boston were three frozen treats – one a frozen yogurt shop recommended by my dining partners from Regina and the others Boston institutions. Beginning first with the Fro-yo, I have to admit that in general it is not my go-to, but when I was told of this locations Japanese spin including fruit and yogurt “caviar” I was intrigued and the location en route to Japonaise was quite convenient.

With the store largely unadorned save for tables, soft serve machines, and a long bar of toppings near the register and featuring a pump-it-yourself 40-cents an ounce selection of ten rotating flavors there really is not much to say about the store itself and the attitude of the attendant was slightly warmer than the fro-yo; but with that said, the flavors that Mixx is turning out are actually quite impressive and although I found the texture to be a tad more “icy” and less creamy than that of Pinkberry, my small sampling of tangy cheesecake and smooth and slightly savory Taro topped with yogurt “caviar” bubbles was well worth the per ounce price.


A second frosty dessert in Boston would be provided by local chain JP Licks, specifically the location on Newbury as I made my way towards Fenway for the Sox and A’s. With the line surprisingly short despite the warm weather and droves of teens shopping the surrounding stores it was with great delight first of all that the soundtrack was sporting Interpol, and second that the young lady behind the counter was generous with the samples. Having already noted my fondness for ice cream over frozen yogurt I will note that amongst my favorite bites was a creamy peanut butter soft serve, a tangy margarita sorbet, and fresh banana oreo – plus the two flavors I ended up ordering; Myer’s Rum Raisin and Maple Butter Walnut – the first intense and boozy and the second smooth and sweet. While admittedly not the creamiest or subtle ice creams on the planet – as a matter of fact, their overall degree of sweetness is amongst the most intense I’ve ever tasted – I really liked the uniqueness of these two options and the service was nearly as sweet as the product.

Rounding out the list – perhaps Boston’s most famous location for ice cream and a spot the New York Times once named “the best ice cream in the world,” I knew a visit to Toscanini’s was requisite for the trip and thankfully a dinner at Craigie on Main provided the opportunity by placing me literally right next door. With the line out the door both when I arrived at Craigie and when I left nearly two and a half hours later the expectations were high and thankfully they were met.


Having already noted the space to be full by simply walking past, the thing that struck me next was how large the space was when I finally made it in the door – never before had I seen an ice cream parlor stating a maximum capacity of over 100 patrons, let alone one so full. With plenty of time to browse the big board and pleasant servers abound my tastes for this evening included the mildly bitter Earl Grey and (obviously) Buckeye – both lovely and spot on to their namesake flavors – plus my eventual decision of a $4.50 small bowl with one half filled with Burnt Caramel and the other half featuring Grape Nut Raisin.

Beginning first with the Grape Nut – all I can say is you have to taste it to believe it. Somewhere between Humphry Slocombe’s Secret Breakfast and Momofuku Milk Bar’s Cereal Milk in flavor and the very essence of Grape Nut’s cereal left to sit in heavy cream too long this was exactly my style of ice cream – not too sweet, nicely nuanced, and entirely unique. Equally unique, my second choice of Burnt Caramel would represent an ice cream so famous that a magazine article posted on the wall told of its accidental creation and although a bit over the top in sweetness I definitely understood the hype as the gelato-dense concoction was a perfect recreation of the flavor imparted to crème brulee by the torch – if I were to return I’d definitely consider pairing it with a fruit sorbet as I can only imagine this would be heavenly.

Posted in Boston, Croissant, Flour, Galleria Umberto, Ice Cream, Japonaise, JP Licks, LA Burdick, Massachusetts, Mike's, Mixx, Modern Pastry, Pizza, Regina, South End Buttery, Toscanini's

April 16, 2011
11:30 PM
by: Uhockey

l’AOC, Paris France


For our final proper meal in Paris the decision was made to stray a bit from the tried, true, and traditionally highly recommended. While part of the reason for this decision was based on not wanting another epic meal as we had to pack our bags for an early flight back to the United States another part of it had to do with a phrase I kept reading when researching the pedigree of many of the city’s best chefs – “Maitre Rôtisseur” – a title apparently relating to a society called Le Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and based on an ancient guild of meat roasters. Intrigued by this society and having thoroughly researched our trip (as I am prone to do) the one name that kept coming up was a place called L’AOC – a space according to many that currently makes the best roasted meats in the city and honors the traditions of the ancient guild more formally than any other.

With a charming location visible from the Seine finding L’AOC was as simple as the reservations process by way of the internet, though as it turned out given our early hour of dining the reservation was not entirely necessary – with the bistro well lit and the sun not yet set when we arrived the restaurant would be no more than a quarter full throughout the 65 minute duration of our meal. Making our way in the door we were greeted pleasantly by a middle-aged woman who turned out to be the chef’s wife and after realizing we spoke only English she welcomed us and led us to a two top all the way in the back, near the restroom.

Not wanting to complain as the seat wasn’t bad but at the same time getting the sense we weren’t exactly “welcomed” our menus were delivered and we were pointed to the 3-course prix fixe and explained the choices in single words – main ingredients only – and left to peruse the menu. With our server, a young male who spoke minimal English arriving with a wine list next we declined and requested a bottle of water – Evian for 6EU – and perused the menu for a short while before placing orders. Perhaps sensing her relatively chilly welcome I will note that the chef’s wife did stop by twice during the course of our meal, both times with a smile, to see how things were going and when the chef made his way from the grill room to say hello to all the patrons he seemed quite pleasant and hospitable.

With wooden chairs topped with worn leather padding matching hefty wooden tables with pull-through checked tablecloths the feel of L’AOC was everything one expects from a French bistro and the yellow walls, red curtains, and knick-knacks only served to complete the scene. With a charcuterie and pate island at the restaurant center it would be a short while before our meal would begin and having seen other tables delivered a weighted bag of bread it required a request for ours to arrive – a request that I’d have probably been better off not making as the house bread was a chewy baguette served without butter.

With my sister opting for the 29Eu prix fixe and myself choosing to go a la carte and share dessert as there was only one dessert that sounded pleasing our first courses would arrive approximately fifteen minutes after seating and while mine was excellent, Erika’s was the worst single course we ate in all of France. Titled “Avocat cuvettes en verrine” on the chalkboard and described as “Avocados and Shrimp” by our waitress this dish was…well…it was vile. Served in a glass bowl as promised by the name and with a layer of avocado mousse at its base the dish started out well enough, but what sat atop the creamy avocado ran afoul with a watery reduction of what seemed to be tomato, vinegar, corn, vinegar, pepper and more vinegar. Seemingly an attempt at guacamole or salsa but so stringent that any nuance was lost all we could do was sit and scratch our heads as to how such a thing even happened – or why they even added the shrimp as it most certainly couldn’t be tasted.

With Erika’s dud returning to the kitchen less than 1/3 eaten I was somewhat saddened by the fact that she had no interest in my entrée – but at the same time the selfish part of me was kind of happy. Simply titled “foie gras torchon” on the menu and costing a mere 14Eu my dish featured a large chunk of creamy foie gras lying nude on slate with three thick slices of grilled country bread, pepper, and fleur de sel as its only accoutrements. With the liver slightly firmer than other preparations in texture it was no less lovely and although not quite as refined as some of the port-poached presentations I’d had elsewhere a stunning degree of natural sweetness was naturally present. With this nutty bread substantially better than the baguette and still hot from the grill the foie spread nicely and bite by bite disappeared as I smiled with delight.

With main courses arriving literally moments after our first plates were cleared it was with horror that Erika saw the same admixture of vegetables topping her Sea Bream and Eggplant Puree with Balsamic, but thankfully this time the acidic orange layer was not present and things proceeded much more smoothly. Beginning first with the fish, a large pan seared filet served skin on and dressed minimally with lemon and butter the preparation was excellent though the quality of the fish which was merely average when compared to the version at La Regalade only a day earlier. Accompanying the fish in a baked round was a soufflé of eggplant puree – creamy, light, and spiced lightly with pepper – it’s texture similar to stuffing and very tasty both on its own and with bites of the dourade.

With the nightly special roasted meats consisting of mostly beef in various forms my main course selection was a combination platter of sorts featuring “Traditionally roasted duck breast, confit of leg, and wood roasted new potatoes in duck jus.” Benefitted from our early reservation as there were apparently only a few ducks available that night, this dish was by far the best of the evening with the duck breast tender, moist, and lean while the slow roasting melded fat and skin into a crispy layer sweetened by simple syrup and balsamic. Additionally impressive (and the best confit of the trip) the duck leg served atop the breast was nearly burnt in portions yet the flavor was intact and the meat so supple it literally fell off the bone as I tried to cut the skin. With the roasted potatoes smoky and tender and the jus briny, sweet, and clean the entirety of this plate was a winner and the portion large enough that it could have been shared by two.

With plates cleared, mine still holding some potatoes and Erika’s still with some fish, a shared dessert seemed the best course of action since we’d pre-gamed at Jacques-Genin and once again the order of the day would be Riz au Lait – this time a much smaller portion than those previous and although the caramel and almonds were good, the texture wasn’t as “stick a spoon up in it” as it was tapioca. Sure this may have been better than any rice pudding stateside, but when compared to what we’d experienced over the past week it was a bit of a disappointment.

With the bill paid – a modest 69Eu all inclusive – we bid farewell to our server and on the way out the chef yelled a “Merci et Bonsoire” from the kitchen where he was hard at work, seemingly the only person in the kitchen at all. With the night still young as we made it to the street and a night of remorseful packing before us we opted to walk for a bit along the Seine prior to catching the Metro and reflecting on the night I feel a bit mixed about the experience; on one hand l’AOC seems devout to a simpler way of cooking and a simpler way of life with each ingredient fresh and minimally altered, yet on the other hand they seem to want to be a “go to” space given their inviting website, location, and décor while the service and some of the cooking do not live up to such standards. While I certainly do not regret the visit to l’AOC given the quality of the foie gras and the duck if I were to do it again I’d probably opt to go with someone French who loves roasted meats as this is clearly not a place accustomed to non-natives fish is simply not what they are known for.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, France, l'AOC, Paris, Vacation

April 16, 2011
4:23 PM
by: Uhockey

Le Pre Catelan, Paris France

Our last full day in Paris would see us visit the sixth of the ten Michelin three-star establishments within the city limits – though to call Le Pré Catelan “within” city limits is almost a misnomer. Awaking early to visit Sacre Coeur and then catching the metro to the edge of Bois de Boulogne we’d originally considered a taxi but after breathing the fresh floral air of the former royal hunting grounds and taking in the glorious weather and beautiful scenery we instead decided to walk. With the sun high above and Erika in a shiny dress while I donned a jacket and tie it should be noted retrospect that the rather roundabout route of jogging trails and grass may not have been the most rational decision of our trip, but at the same time our nearly thirty minute trek was one of the most beautiful stretches of land we saw in all of Paris.

Making good time as we passed by sunbathers and were passed by joggers it was with a bit of effort that we eventually discovered the former dairy farm turned gastronomic destination but after a short detour through the gardens the signage improved and within moments we were greeted by a young man patrolling the grounds in tuxedo and bow-tie who led us directly to the doors of the restaurant where many great chefs including Thomas Keller once trained. With the doors opened in unison by a pair of hostesses a warm greeting welcomed us and within moments our reservation was confirmed bags were checked and we were led through the grand front dining hall to a lovely sunlit lounge overlooking the garden and patio in back.

Seated at a plush two top with me looking into the main dining room and Erika looking into a large perpendicular room where a particularly boisterous party of at least ten were dining it was mere moments before our server and the maitre d’hôtel would arrive to greet us and provide two separate menus – one the a la carte and tasting menu and the other the 85Eu four-course lunch. Assured that if desired we could order different length menus we ordered a bottle of still Evian (unlimited refills for 9Eu) after declining the champagne carte and were left to decide and after weighing the options we each decided on the lunch menu – essentially two choices for each course and all derived from the a la carte menu, including some of Chef Frederic Anton’s most famous items.

With the off white tablecloth held flat by steel brackets and a signature charger, fine silver, and salt and pepper shakers alongside a single flower in a low vase decorating the table the setting of Le Pre Catelan was surprisingly modern for such a storied building yet by utilizing marble and mirrors with aplomb the room managed a fine balance between its heritage and the modernity of Anton’s cuisine. With tables well spaced and service professional yet friendly I will note that this was one of the few places where our server engaged us in conversation about where we were from and shared some tidbits about himself and the chef throughout the meal – for instance, I of course knew of Anton’s time at Jamin with Robuchon, but I had no idea that he’d previously been at Les Crayères.

Sitting and taking in the room it was approximately fifteen minutes after seating that the meal would begin, interestingly with the bread basket preceding the amuse. With breads made on premises and served warm in a large silver bowl there were two choices – a crunchy baguette with a good crumb and a nutty cereal bread with great chew. For the butter, shockingly it was not Bordier, but rather from a supplier called Beillevaire – the embossed one unsalted and smooth while the other was dotted with fleur de sel and almost honey tinged in its flavor.

With the bread barely buttered our amuse would arrive in a deep vessel with the aroma greeting my nose before it even reached the table – it was onion, no doubt. Described first as Onion Veloute and then finished with Leek Cream at tableside this hot/cool combination was a textural wonder with both mouthfeels entirely different and the flavors surprisingly subdued. While I personally would have preferred a single temperature as opposed to the luke-warm amalgam that resulted after a few bites there was no arguing with the effect of the flavors in awakening the palate.

With a spot of bread to clear the palate our first courses would arrive after a bit of a delay as the large party was enjoying the full tasting menu and a procession of waiters was required to deliver each course. When our items did arrive, however, both were well worth the wait. Beginning first with my selection, Port poached Foie Gras dusted with dried lentils, Foie Gras Cream with black truffles, and toasted country bread – it was everything you would expect with such an ingredient profile. Served on three separate plates with the soup at center I began there while it was still warm and was rewarded with a velvet potage featuring a nearly meringue thick centerpiece laden with the sapor of foie gras and topped with black truffles and a rim of buttery foie gras foam tinged with peppery tones. Moving on to the terrine itself – a textbook example, easily spreadable and nearly melting at room temperature with sweet boozy tones throughout and both fleur de sel and the crunchy lentils to add contrast. Spread thick and thin in varying combinations on the toasted bread (refilled without even having to ask) I stretched the course for quite some time as my sister ooh’d and ahh’d over her selection.

While the Foie was good, as it normally is, my sister’s selection was definitely worth the auditory show of appreciation. Titled Cold Poached Egg perfumed with celery, Remoulade of Celery Root, Rocket Salad with Anchovy Vinaigrette and Aged Balsamic the only thing better than the way the dish tasted was the way it looked – as a matter of fact, in a trip full of visually stimulating food it is this dish that wallpapers my computer even a month later. Meticulous and precise with the egg actually sous-vided in a bag with celery jus and then chilled prior to plating the visual effect was almost that of the egg arising from the sweetened custard beneath and when cut the yolk was untouched – pouring forth as though entirely raw. With the centerpiece plate delicious its accoutrements were not quite as impressive, yet at the same time the spiral of poached celery root in eggy spiced mayonnaise and the bitter salad with heady dressing proved a nice point/counterpoint to the subtlety of the egg.

With the entrees cleared it would again be a leisurely delay spent chatting and watching the parade of gorgeous dishes brought to the tables around us before the main courses would arrive – this time each harkening of Anton’s days with Robuchon in both preparation and presentation. For my sister’s plat, a troika of flavors on two separate plates detailed as Langoustine Ravioli served in Olive Oil Foam with White pepper and Mint and Fried Langoustine Spring Roll and Tempura romaine lettuce with peanut sauce and romaine lettuce jus. Beginning first with the Raviolo, quite large and stuffed with sweet crustacean I loved the way the tender meat was lightly accented by pepper and mint while the “sauce” was almost barely there – a glassy mouthfeel more than anything – allowing the protein to truly shine. With the ravioli quite similar to the one at Robuchon’s Vegas flagship, the tempura shrimp on the slate was a dead ringer for the one at L’Atelier with the fresh tail wrapped in crispy basil and citrus before a visit to the fryer. Served along with the Langoustine in a separate crispy shell was the pure flavor of romaine lettuce – intense and vegetal – and for dipping there were two sauces; one a bitter chlorophyll tinged lettuce juice and the other a thick peanut sauce with flavors of smoke, sugar, and something slightly acidic.

For my main course, again clearly an ode to his mentor, I was served a trio of plates titled Foie Gras Stuffed Quail roasted with Truffle Honey / Buttered Potatoes with Asparagus Tips / Risotto with Parmesan, Quail Jus, and Nuts. Having had Robuchon’s tiny Quail only five months prior the first shocker in the presentation was the sheer size – each leg perhaps three times as large as that at Robuchon and the breasts easily twice the size. Served bisected with a thin layer of liver beneath the skin and the legs coated in honey and black truffle with the breasts honey and green onion the bird was flawless, complex, and nutty. For the sides, the potatoes were apparently dehydrated and rehydrated in butter and subsequently topped with butter poached asparagus tips and a drizzle of honey – as one might imagine with so much butter, these too were great. For the final member of the trio, the risotto was texturally excellent and while the parmesan was almost too potent it surprisingly found levity in the honey sweetened game jus and interestingly textured nuts that appeared almost as though they were pushed through a garlic press.

Realizing that our trip to Paris was coming to a close and that this could be the last time in a while that I would enjoy any cheese, let alone cheeses of the quality we experienced in France, I was admittedly a bit remorseful when the black carte arrived with twenty-one options. Deferring to our server asking for whatever was best this was the third time we were served the lovely four-year aged comte of Bernard Antony along with nine other selections including epoisse, an intense raw Brie that we were told can only be obtained at Le Pre Catelan, a peppered goats cheese, and a very specific form of Morbier utilizing white ash. With each cheese “telling a different story and serving a different purpose” according to our server this was perhaps the most well-culled collection we experienced in Paris and although not the biggest, each choice was exquisite.

For our desserts there were two selections on the lunch menu and although we originally considered adding Le Pre Catelan’s take on Robuchon’s Sphere De Sucre entitled “Pomme” the size of the desserts made us reconsider – this is not a place that skimps on the sweets. For my selection, something we’d seen a lot of on the trip was all dressed up with gold and candied nuts to produce “Le Paris Brest with Praline Cream.” With expectations high for what a 30Eu Brest (if ordered a la carte) would offer this gussied up version was not the traditional wheel but instead a nearly 8inch by 4 inch by 4 inch sandwich of buttery choux and the most intense praline cream of the trip. While I cannot say it warranted the 30Eu pricetag, it was by far the best Paris Brest I’ve ever tasted which is saying a lot on a trip that included nearly ten.

For my sister’s dessert she received an updated look at Escoffier’s classic “La Poire Comme Une Belle Helene.” Served in similar fashion to Le Sucre this dessert featured sugar poached pears, smooth hazelnut pastry cream, and vanilla meringue inside a floral crystal shell. Topped tableside with molten dark chocolate with the shell dissolving slowly this dessert was further complicated and nuanced by crunchy bits of hazelnut and tiny balls of chocolate within providing a dynamic experience to go with the tableside show. With my sister not particularly fond of pears in general even she noted that this dessert was one of the best on the trip and having experienced Le Sucre in two forms in the past I have to say this version was every bit on par in texture and quality while the addition of high quality chocolate really never hurts anything.

With desserts thoroughly enjoyed our final treats of the afternoon were a quartet of Mignardises and complimentary coffee for myself and tea for Erika. Amongst the candies served in a piano-finish and silver box matching the room’s décor were two Vanilla Marshmallows, Raspberry Pate au Fruits, Cocoa Nougats with pistachio, and butter caramel with salty peanuts – each good, but none terribly memorable. With coffee refilled, again included on the lunch tasting, and check delivered we were asked if we would like another round of mignardises while we waited for them to hail us a car – an offer we declined to the puzzled look of our server who seemed confused when we explained to him that we had walked. With the bill paid and a copy of the menu requested we were wished a “beautiful and happy day” and thanked for coming before being walked to the door where a lovely walk through the park to the Musee Marmottan awaited.

Having now dined at more than half of Paris’ 10-Best (at least according to Michelin) I can say without hesitation that Le Pre Catelan is definitely deserving of it’s accolades and Anton’s Robuchon-esque precision produced some of the most beautiful food I have ever had the privilege to eat – yet at the same time, compared to the other restaurants in the category the experience of Le Pre Catelan simply didn’t have that feeling of a special occasion to me. Sure the service was prim and proper – even friendly at times – and yes the grand room as well as the back salons are prestigious, clean, and classic yet modern, but everything just felt so formulaic, like they’ve done this a thousand times to the point where everything is now too easy and there is no impetus to change. With that said – certainly I’d go back and likely this time to order the full tasting – but I probably would not do it at the end of such a trip because while Le Pre Catelan’s light certainly shines brightly it was simply outshined by so much else on our trip.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, France, Le Pre Catelan, Paris, Truffle, Vacation

April 15, 2011
11:24 PM
by: Uhockey

Le Regalade St-Honore, Paris France


After feasting at Michel Rostang for lunch and spending a long afternoon shopping it off at Printemps and walking it off at Centre Pompidou our dinner on Friday would remain in the 1st Arrondissement at yet another member of Paris’ Bistronomic movement; this time at the second iteration of Bruno Doucet’s famous La Régalade. Having initially considered the original location in the 14th but eventually opting on the Saint-Honoré setting based on recent reviews, location, and the fact that Doucet was spending less and less time at the original it was with minimal difficulty that we found the small storefront and having opted for the “early” seating at 7:30 when we called to make reservations a month prior it was no surprise that when we arrived the space was nearly vacant allowing for a swift greeting by one of four young females circulating the small room.


With reservations confirmed and coats hung along the wall we were led to a small wooden two-top midway along the wall looking into the small kitchen and moments later menus were presented and chalk-board specials described. With service certainly more abrupt than other meals on our trip I will note that our server, a cute British lass fluent in both French and English, was excellent throughout although the tag-team style of service did at one point lead to a substantial delay in refilling our carafe de l’eau. Left to explore the menu and browse the room it would be little time before decisions were made and although as it turned out Doucet was out of town and cooking at neither Régalade that night the meal that followed would represent the best “bang for the buck” we found in Paris.


With the 30-seats all packed by 8:00pm and the noise level steadily increasing to something between a hum and a buzz as we watched the young team work frenetically yet quietly in the open kitchen gleaming with copper pots and all sorts of shiny pipes and gadgets the first item to arrive at our table was the complimentary loaf pan containing the night’s “terrine du porc, veau, et canard” with a jar of cornichons and freshly sliced baguette. Instructed to “enjoy as much as you like” I’m rather certain that our server did not expect two diners of our size “enjoy” the whole thing, but with slice after slice full of meaty flavor and heavy aromatics including onion, pepper, garlic, coriander, paprika, and more it was hard to stop. While the entirety of the composition was not quite as complex or smooth as that at L’Ami Jean, the more charred top layer was absolutely fantastic and when paired with the warm baguette and semi-sweet cornichons it was a great start.

Eschewing the up-charged nightly specials as most were beef based our 33Eu three-course journey would begin perhaps twenty-five minues after seating with “Gambas sautees ail et persil, jambon d’Espagne, risotto cremeux a l’encre de seiche” for my sister. Served in a large both of impressive depth and vastly larger than one would expect for an entrée the base of this dish was an intense creamy risotto tinged with squid ink yet still maintaining its nutty essence topped with an admixture of chopped prawns sautéed in garlic and parsley and crisp cracklins’ of Spainish ham. Certainly more “Pan-European” than strictly French the quality of the risotto itself was one of the best I’ve ever tasted and while the garlic prawns may have been just a bit “too garlic” for my tastes they certainly did not obscure the flavor profile of the other ingredients leading to a plate my sister considered one of the best of the trip.


For my entrée the day’s selection would be one of my favorite foods in one of my favorite styles of presentation – “Oeuf de poule bio facon cocotte, epinard, pointes d’asperges et tomates confites.” Delivered in a screw-top glass jar and popped open tableside with the warning that it was very hot, this bubbly soup of poached organic egg in “casserole” was the very picture of early spring. With the smooth and creamy egg plus sautéed spinach forming the backdrop of flavors and crisp snappy asparagus speckling the each spoonful, the most interesting component of this dish was actually the duck fat confit tomatoes – intensely sweet and slightly leathery in texture providing juxtaposition to the otherwise vegetal and subdued flavor profile.


With entrees cleared the plats would arrive quickly on their heels as the steady stream of plates from such a small kitchen was a sight to behold. For my sister’s selection, “Filet de dorade dries sauvage a la plancha, legumes fins et croquants a l’huile d’olive, emulsion a la coriander et au gingembre” featured an imposing fillet of slightly over-cooked grilled sea bream that none the less flaked apart nicely and had a great flavor. Topped with bitter greens and resting on a bed of pine nuts and snappy vegetables including tomatoes, peppers, asparagus, and zucchini poached in olive oil the dish was finished with an aromatic sauce of coriander and ginger that although tasty was also slightly overwhelming of the fish.

For my main course the selection was easy – I simply can’t turn down duck and although “Margret de canard epais roti sur la peau, petites pommes de terres roties au jus de viande” was perhaps the most straight forward item on the menu it was also very well done. Yet another sizeable portion with the honey lacquered skin fatty and supple and the flesh pink and moist the flavor of the duck was quite good while the roasted fingerling potatoes intermingled with fibrous mushrooms in beefy gravy were a nice savory contrast. While I generally prefer the skin slightly more crisp than this presentation I had to tip my hat to the chef as the quality of this particular duck was actually quite distinctive and less oily than I’d expected and as such despite the skin being slightly “tough” the preparation preserved the quality of the flesh.

With our plats cleared it would take perhaps twenty minutes for desserts to arrive largely because of my selection; just when you thought my soufflé fix would have been satisfied by the double header at Rostang, Le Regalade offered a version of their own entitled “Souffle chaud au Grand Marnier.” For the third time following the assumption that if a little is good a lot is better, this towering soufflé arrived tall and teetering, a mountain of white topped with a snowfall of confectioners’ sugar. Simple, sweet, steaming hot, and punchy with notes of cognac and orange it was a classic done well and compared to previous experiences with Gran Marnier soufflés it was understated – a good thing for someone who doesn’t fancy too boozy a preparation.

Furthering her newfound love of Rice Pudding that began at L’Ami Jean, Erika’s dessert selection arrived in a latched jar and although I cannot be certain my gestalt is that pound for pound the portion may have actually trumped even that served to us by Jego. Titled “Riz cuit au lait et a la vanilla comme le faisait ma grand-mere, caramel laitier,” and served with a liquid salty caramel so buttery that it put those at Jacques Genin to shame, the pudding itself was thick, toothsome, rich, and heavily accented with vanilla. Again with the wooden spoon working slowly it was once again to our waitress’ surprise when she arrived later to find the jar empty and both of us smiling in a near comatose state. To be completely honest I can’t say whether the pudding at Jean or Regalade was better – but I’d gladly do a blind taste test again if only to have another chance to taste both once more.

Sitting and chatting (and trying to digest all those carbohydrates) after declining coffee it is notable that the tables seated to our left and right had both already settled their bills and been once again filled as a small line was developing in the street despite being 9:30 – even after eight days in town it still amused us how late Parisians choose to dine. With the bill requested, delivered, and settled our last bites of the meal would be a pair of perfect golden Madelines – warm and slightly tinged with lemon – a textbook ending befitting such a lovely day.

Making our way from Le Regalade St. Honore into a throng of Parisian youths out celebrating the impending weekend it was a quick walk to the Metro and with both of us quite stuffed I was glad to have my sister along as I fell asleep not once, but twice en route back to our apartment and with a mere 30 hours left on our trip I slept like a log for the first time in ove r a week. Having dined at five of the more notable “bistronomic” restaurants in Paris I can say without doubt that Le Regalade St-Honore was at least on par with Chez L’Ami Jean on that particular evening in terms of fun and while the food was not quite as careful or soulful at times, once you take into account price and ‘experience’ this is a spot well worth the reservation as the chef’s seasonal focus, liberal portions, and inspired flavors should command at least twice the 33Eu prix fixe.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, France, Le Regalade St. Honore, Madeline, Paris, Pork, Souffle, Vacation

April 15, 2011
4:46 PM
by: Uhockey

Michel Rostang, Paris France

When someone asks me about the very best meal I had in Paris Michel Rostang is not the first name to come to mind, yet at the same time if I were asked to explain the most “classical French dining experience” of the trip our lunch in front of the kitchen window at 20 rue Rennequin is precisely what I would describe. Family owned and operated since inception and garnering 2-Michelin Stars the year I was born I was told by friends that this would not be the most revelatory experience in the City of Lights, but that if one ordered correctly it could be a stellar meal at a comparatively good price and while Rostang’s kitchen may not produce items as delicious or distinctive as Gagnaire or Barbot I can say without batting a lash that my friends were right.

Located slightly off the beaten path in the 17eme but easily identifiable by its patron’s name on the building outside we arrived to our 12:30 reservation a few moments early and within seconds of entering the door were greeted by a young man who introduced himself as the Maître d’Hôtel and Chef Rostang’s daughter, a pleasant yet serious woman who was very clearly in charge of many (if not all) aspects of the front of the house. With coat and bag taken we were asked if we would prefer a seat in the more “intimate” portion of the restaurant or if we should prefer a seat before the large picture-window looking into the kitchen – an obvious choice and given the situation of the table an opportunity for both of us to watch every aspect of our meal’s preparation without hearing a sound from the kitchen staff.

Seated and greeted by our server, a young man perhaps my sister’s age who spoke perfect English, three distinctive menus were presented and after a couple of questions we both decided to opt for the lunch special – 78Eu for three courses, plus to split an additional appetizer and a cheese course. Having heard impressive things of Rostang’s famous truffle sandwich it was somewhat disappointing when we were informed that they were not currently offering the item because “the current truffle selection is best suited for garnish and sauces” but given the breadth of classics on the menu we certainly were not left scrambling for ideas.

With orders placed and water filled it was a short wait before the meal would begin and during that time we each made a visit to the gilded downstairs restroom largely to see the two separate wine rooms – one quite enormous and rustic with the other well appointed and behind glass showing off some of their more esoteric selections. With the restaurant less than half full throughout our meal we also were left time to remark on the how charming the room was with its heavy wood paneling juxtaposing delicate lace curtains and a collection of ornate statuettes and dolls displayed along the wall – the whole feel like dining in a stately mansion, or as the case may be, the private residence and vision of Monsieur Rostang.

With thick linen napkins unfolded and heavily padded wooden chairs beneath us the meal would begin with a trio of canapés – all three tasty and one utterly outstanding. Beginning first with the simple, a slice of house cured Jambon with truffled vinegar, pistachio, and parmesan was plenty savory, a little sweet, and nicely accented by the nuts. Moving next to the sandwich, described as a club sandwich of hand-picked crab, truffle, and brie this selection was buttery, sweet, and aromatic with each ingredient coming forth with aplomb – I’d have gladly accepted a full portion of this sandwich in place of the truffle sandwich had they offered. As good as the sandwich was, the showstopper of the troika was the Butter tart with onion cream and foie gras – an unctuous amalgam of smooth liver and onion that was even more so plus mildly sweet top notes from the pastry.

With canapés consumed the next item to arrive at our table was the house bread – a single option in the form of a crunchy demi-baguette served with salted Bordier butter. With bread replenished with a warm roll each time the prior version was within a bite of completion I, as usual, enjoyed plenty and the butter was as good as any save for that at l’Arpege.

With Chef Rostang in the kitchen (apparently something less and less frequent these days according to reports and his daughter’s comments towards the end of the meal) largely as an observer and coach as the young team worked convivially our amuse proper for the meal would arrive in a rather sizable bowl described as Fennel Soup with Lobster claws and Lobster coral Crème. Impressive in portion and in taste this medium-warm potage was the definition of “velvety” and with the aromatic blend of spices and fennel balanced against the butter poached lobster and briny cream it was better than most lobster bisques I’ve tasted stateside. While I personally would have preferred it to be hotter and I jokingly mentioned this to the server it was a minor quibble given the quality.

For our first course of the afternoon there were six choices and all but one sounded enticing but in the end my love of foie gras won out and my server would soon arrive with “Fresh Sea Scallops and Foie Gras Ravioli in a broth of algae, root vegetables and herbs.” Ever professional if not a bit too serious I was warned that this soup was “hot – as you like it” completely straight faced and indeed it was; it was also wonderful. With the scallops caramelized on the exterior and nearly raw within and the pillows of foie lightly kissed with balsamic the sweet proteins melded nicely with carrots, turnips, and rutabaga while the savory broth sang of Asian inspired umami – an admittedly surprising flourish considering the chef’s classic stylings.

For my sister’s first course her decision, like her main course, was “Le Plat du jour proposé par le Maître d’Hôtel” – in this case described as “Chilled Fisherman’s Stew of Calamari, Razor Clams, Sea Bass, and Belotta Ham.” Expecting a broth-thin cioppino or gazpacho but instead delivered a buttery and smooth veloute loaded with briny seafood, savory ham, and bitter greens balanced against onions and peppers the most impressive part of this dish was the heterogeneity of it all – each bite a new experience with the acidity of the tomato providing an anchor to the diversity of flavors.

For our added appetizer a third soup was selected and though we asked for it to be split in the kitchen we were instead served two full bowls of the “Egg cream with fresh black truffles and Jerusalem Artichokes.” Again served hot and thick this velvety soup was the best of the trio and as a 30Eu supplement well worth the expense as the chopped egg blended seamlessly with the hefty vegetal tones of the Sunchoke and aromatics of the truffle.

With plates cleared we were next visited by both Michel and his daughter (acting as translator) who thanked us for coming and commended our main course selections – “one a classic, the other my new take on surf and turf.” Beginning first with the Plat du jour, “Truffled John Dory with blood sausage wrapped in bacon lardons and black olive puree” – it is hard to imagine more polar opposites. Beginning first with the fish – 2 slices, both pan kissed but moist and flakey with a layer of black truffles atop – it was mild, aromatic, and lovely. Serving as counterpoint to the fish, the very definition of savory – briny bacon, aromatic and heavily seasoned sausage, plus the essence of olives. With a silver sauce-pan of truffled potatoes along side adding a creamy aspect to the plate it was perhaps the best “surf n’ turf” I’ve ever tasted thus making it a classic in its own right.

For my main course, a classic by any definition as it was handed down from Escoffier by way of his father, the selection was easy – La Quenelle de Brochet soufflé a la crème de homard “comme le faisait Jo Rostang” – a serving practically half the size of a regulation basketball and nearly as orange. Plated tableside and served with nutty saffron rice this admixture of pike, egg, and bread was impossibly fluffy and delicious on its own, but what truly raised it to its legendary status was the buttery lobster sauce which was baked to a leathery dome atop with more added not once, not twice, but thrice during the course of it’s consumption. While everything at Michel Rostang was delicious this dish was alone worth the visit and undoubtedly one of the five best savories I had on the trip.

Wiping the rest of my plate clean once again with some baguette we were again visited by the younger Rostang who seemed very pleased we’d enjoyed our meal and cleaning the table herself mentioned that the cheese cart should not be missed. With Erika again growing full I suggested perhaps splitting a course which was agreeable to all – even though as it turns out I’d be eating 90% of it myself. With the two boards unloaded from a clever refrigerated space in the wall and described at length I unfortunately do not recall all of the selections from the Goat-heavy board, but of those selected my notes include “Two year Comte, Epoisse, Ashed Lyon Goat, Raw-milk sheep, Blue, Roquefort, Brind amour” and all were quite tasty paired with slices of toasty house-made Walnut Raisin Bread.

Having missed out on my soufflé the night before and already bearing witness to the sort of products coming out from under the kitchen’s Salamander our dessert selections were similar but entirely different – for my sister the Hot Chocolate Souffle with Cocoa Ice Cream and Black Pepper Whipped Cream and for myself the Salty Butter Caramel Souffle with Williams Pear Sorbet. Larger than expected and with outfitted in silver both I can only note that both were beyond reproach – tall, proud, piping hot, and a cloud of sweet balanced by the nuances of their respective sauces. As an added bonus it should also be noted that the ice creams at Rostang are every bit as good as those at Berthillon – particularly the dark chocolate which is trumped only by Philadelphia’s Capogiro for best Chocolate Ice Cream I’ve ever tasted.

With soufflés finished (and Erika stuffed) the final treats for our meal would arrive on the flowing dress of a marvelous silver statue. With nine mignardises in total including an overly soft Canele, a perfect boozy Baba, and other flavors including Candied Currants, Almond Nougat, Apricot Gelee, Rhubarb Tart, Almond Cookie, Chocolate Ganache, and Lemon Marshmallow all were quite tasty but none truly exemplary – more or less the standard despite the lavish service ware. With the kitchen drapes now pulled and the staff making their way downstairs to change clothes and head home our check was requested as we enjoyed the bites and after noting a double charge for the cheeses that was instantly corrected the bill was paid and a copy of the menu requested while we lingered and chatted with our server for a bit before making our way to the sunny streets.

Having already noted my overall thoughts about Rostang at the start of this review I think it is important to say that although the meal wasn’t “the best,” it did fall in the setting of a shear embarrassment of riches unlike any trip I’ve ever taken…in almost any American city Rostang would be the best restaurant in town by leaps and bounds. While the food was perhaps “old school” there were certainly flourishes that made it stand out and additionally, while the service and room were a bit stodgy and not as much fun as that of Le Cinq or Guy Savoy both were every bit on par with that of LeDoyen or Le Pre-Catalan. In the end I’d gladly go back not only for the quenelles or the soufflé, but also because by being “old school,” Michel Rostang represents something quite unique in the new world of Barbot and Bistronomy.

Posted in Bread Basket, Crab, Dessert, Foie, Food, France, Lobster, Michel Rostang, Paris, Pork, Souffle, Truffle, Vacation

April 15, 2011
2:22 AM
by: Uhockey

Josephine Chez Dumonet, Paris France

Of the sixteen restaurant meals during our trip to Paris there is only one that I do not feel I can evaluate appropriately – a meal that took place at Josephine Chez Dumonet late on the evening April the 14th. As the circumstances tinting my view of this experience (save for seating us in the “American” section up front while all of the French folks were seated in back) were not a fault of the restaurant I will avoid my traditionally wordy assessment and instead simply opt to comment on what was ordered and how it tasted while noting the service and space were satisfactory – neither overdone nor deficient in any way – though with what the meal ended up costing me I’d have much sooner gone elsewhere for both.

Beginning first with the bread service – a house made toasted baguette with a nice open crumb delivered with rather uninspired unsalted butter and extra fleur de sel on request. It was good for mopping up sauce and as a delivery mechanism for the appetizers but overall sub-par compared to the options throughout the rest of Paris.

Complimentary wines – one white and one red with the first a bit too dry for my tastes while the second was quite sweet and fruity and both a nice gesture while we waited for our courses to arrive – the white with appetizers and the red with the mains.

1983 Chateau Terfort Ste Croix du Mont – an old bottle brought up from the cellar that was uncorked and tasted first behind the bar prior to delivery. Nearly a Sauternes in color and flavor with a smooth sweetness that coated the mouth at first but perfumed the palate with a clean finish and notes of pear, honey, caramel, and even hints of cinnamon. An experience in a bottle coming from a menu most do not even realize exists it was a wine suitable for both the discerning and the novice though perhaps not the sort of thing you order with indifference to yours or someone else’s wallet.

Amongst our first courses the first was a demi portion of the house terrine de campagne maison avec salade et cornichons et onions. Similar to that of L’Ami Jean and later Le Regalade St. Honore this was the weakest of the terrines we tasted in Paris and also the only one which was not provided compliments of the house. Overall it simply tasted like meat – the spices largely subdued…a shame as the texture was actually quite nice.

Faring much better than the terrine de campagne, a demi portion of the foie gras de canard frais maison was absolutely sensational – buttery, smooth, and almost melting when warmed to room temperature – the perfect accoutrement to the bread and all the better with some fleur de sel plus a brilliant pairing to the Chateau Terfort with the wine bringing out the sapor of the liver and the liver bringing out buttery toffee notes from the wine.

For our main courses, the first was Cote de veau au vinaigre de framboise – a large slab of meat marinated with and absolutely soaked in a pool of aromatic raspberry vinegar. Not particularly a fan of veal I’ll note that the bite I tasted was supple, slightly sweet, and much more lean than I’d anticipated – an excellent slice of veal which was picked cleaned from the bone by meal’s end.

For my selection, having heard fantastic things of both duck preparations at Chez Dumonet and a fan of all things duck, I selected the Confit de Canard Maison. Served as a sizable leg and thigh over crispy potatoes and an uninspired salad with light vinaigrette the confit was admittedly quite good with a crisp skin overlying a ribbon of fat and dark succulent meat that was slightly gamy with notes of garlic, onion, and chives lending balance. Hefty in portion and low in price the duck was undoubtedly the best deal of the evening – no frills comfort food done well.


The third main plate was undoubtedly the best of the meal and though the 34EU price tag seemed a bit steep the flavors were admittedly complex and the presentation a step (or two) above the others. Titled Millefeuille de Pigeon et ses cuisses confites this two part arrangement was first the legs – lacquered, sweet, crispy on the exterior but melting and falling off the bone within – and then a three layer tower of crispy potatoes with the most flavorful and moist pigeon confit within. With everything resting in a pool of sweetened game sauce with hefty notes of cinnamon and spice I will simply note that even considering the fact that she was stuffed after Guy Savoy it took some convincing to get my sister to share.

With plates cleared and everyone rather full on both food and wine dessert was a rather gluttonous choice, and unfortunately a somewhat controversial one as I was unfortunately prevented the soufflé I’d very much desired instead settling for the Paris Toulouse avec corinthes et framboises – essentially a slightly more dense Paris Brest with filling of berries, whipped cream, and custard. Having heard how large the dessert portions at Dumonet were I was rather surprised at both the averageness of the size and the flavor of the dessert, though the berries were impeccable. Regardless for 18EU I’d have expected better and judging from the soufflés I saw emerging from the kitchen I couldn’t help but feel slighted.

The second dessert ordered was simply a plate of berries and whipped cream – specifically currants and raspberries with the same whipped cream that filled the Toulouse. At 12EU it was again overpriced, but the berries were again excellent.


The last of the desserts was titled “Mille-feuille Jean-Louis” and while I’m not sure which Jean-Louis they are referring to, this two layered version was the most paltry Mille-feuille we experienced in Paris and at nearly 2.5-times the price of the marvelous version at Jacques-Genin (though admittedly more affordable yet vastly less impressive than those at l’Arpege or Guy Savoy) it was simply disappointing in pairing the same vanilla bean custard from the Toulouse with two crunchy layers of pastry…the presentation honestly looked like they’d forgotten another 5 layers.

Ordering coffee because it was nearly 11pm and I’d hit a wall nearly an hour prior it was a humorous display to see our server yipped at by the chef for failing to bring the mignardises with the coffee, but when they arrived these treats were perhaps the best desserts of the meal – particularly the honey and nut tuilles and the fried coconut macaroons.


In the end Josephine Chez Dumonet turned out to be an overly expensive and exceedingly average experience that due to some ancillary issues turned out to be perhaps the meal I regret most on our trip to Paris – while the room, the company, the service, and the experience were fine, with what the meal ended up costing I could have gone back to Le Cinq or any number of one to two starred experiences – not to mention the significantly cheaper and vastly more impressive L’Ami Jean or Le Regalade St. Honore.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, France, Josephine Chez Dumonet, Macaroon, Paris, Vacation

April 14, 2011
4:11 PM
by: Uhockey

Restaurant Guy Savoy, Paris France


I don’t fancy the word “foodie” – it runs afoul with my sensibilities and makes me think of kids acting like everything offal is good, people lining up for food trucks, and all those folks who worship the Food Network and “celebrity chefs.” Don’t get me wrong – I love food and I care about its sourcing, preparation, and presentation but to me the experience is nearly as important as the product on the table…it is what makes a meal worth going out for, and it was with these thoughts in mind and a couple of caveats that the first reservation I secured when planning our trip to Paris was at Guy Savoy.

While some may say that Chef Savoy no longer produces – and perhaps never has produced – the best food in Paris there are very few who critique the “experience” of his Rue Troyon flagship – as a matter of fact, of all the upper echelon spots in the city I’d heard from a number of persons that it was perhaps the most fun and considering my previous visit to his Las Vegas location I had good reason to believe those rumors. For the sake of full disclosure I will note that I was not a stranger at the house of Savoy during this visit as I’d met his son Franck during my dinner at Caesars Palace and had promised him I’d be in contact should I ever return to Vegas or visit the Paris location – but with that said, I made my Parisian reservation on my own through the website for the 110EU lunch before ever touching base with Franck and every aspect of the process was smooth, professional, and faultless from the very start.

With the reservation confirmed and instructions to arrive by noon it was with little difficulty that we found the small restaurant on the Rue Troyon – its doors an identical match for those Stateside – and similar to my previous experience the spectacle of service began before we even reached the walked in the door as both doors opened wide and we were greeted by smiling faces, first a pair of young men and then by Maitre d’ Hubert Schwermer who Franck had e-mailed to personally take care of us. With greetings and pleasantries exchanged we were asked next if we should prefer the main dining room or one of the “smaller, more private” areas and electing for the later were led to a lovely two-top easily big enough for four complete with hefty linens, colorful plates, and the same colorful salt, pepper, and butter service I remembered fondly from Vegas.

With no menu necessary as I’d already arranged the meal through Franck and the reservations department our next contact of the afternoon was with the Sommelier – a friendly man who delivered the biblical tome on a pedestal and after some discussion provided my sister with a lovely 20EU glass of red that she still considers to be the best she has ever tasted. With myself opting for only water we were left next to absorb the colorful space for a few moments before Chef Savoy himself would stop by to say hello at each table as our room filled to capacity – it would be the first of three times we would see Guy Savoy that afternoon and each time he was jovial, humble, and wearing a seemingly perpetual smile.

Already enjoying the pageantry of the dining room, service, and smiles our first bite of the meal would arrive from the hand of Hubert on a small metal toothpick just as it did in Vegas – a sandwich of foie gras terrine between buttered brioche toasts that even my sister, never a fan of liver, stated was good. With one service of such a tasty thing certainly not enough the ritual would repeat twice, each time by a different waiter and since Erika was satisfied with one I ended up with five.

While I’d have been okay with an ongoing flow of foie gras sandwiches it was perhaps ten minutes later when our amuse proper of the meal would arrive – and again it would be just like my first Savoy experience – soup on one side and a hidden morsel on the other. Poured tableside with the fist half a savory veloute of Asparagus served over “lemon caviar” I loved the manner in which the sour dotted the vegetal while the small morsel hidden beneath the cup was an earthy beetroot tart with horseradish – an intense bite opening the palate and sinuses both.

With salted and unsalted butters on the table from the start our next visit would be from the bread cart – yes, that is right, CART. With rounds and braids large and small and varieties including but not limited to Buckwheat with speck, Nori brioche, Five Grain, Rye, Ciabatta, Buckwheat and Oat, Sourdough, and two types of Baguette I’ll only say that I sampled quite a few throughout our three hour experience and although none matched that of Ledoyen or Pierre Gagnaire all were quit good and I particularly loved the coarse crumb of the two buckwheat selections.

Having already noted that our menu was pre-selected the next course was a surprise – an extra course “compliments of the house” described as Line caught whiting with salmon eggs, Dublin Bay Prawn tartar and lemon jelly – a refreshing starter served on a bubbled glass plate with two forms of lemon and two preparations of raw fish. Beginning first with a centerpiece of melt-in-the-mouth prawn surrounded by four curls of meaty whiting topped with briny orange salmon eggs the plate was lent balance, interestingly, by the lemon – some as a sour gel and part as candied gelee with each bringing out different notes in the fishes to great effect.

For our second act – or the first of the requested courses – our selections would differ largely because I wanted my sister to taste Guy Savoy’s most famous dish while I had my eyes set on something I’d been unable to order at the Vegas location as it was out of season. For Erika the choice, of course, was Artichoke and black truffle soup with layered brioche of mushrooms and truffle butter – a signature every bit worth such a distinction and just as smooth and aromatic as before.

For my appetizer selection the choice of the day was a dish described as “Peas all Around” Stateside – or Myriad of young peas when in Paris. Consisting of three layers – the first a gelatin made with pea juice, the second a lightly sweetened puree, and the third a nearly raw layer of shelled peas the petit pois themselves were outstanding – each layer showing off a different aspect of the vegetable’s flavor while the topping of a lightly poached egg, a dash of salt, a drizzle of chive oil, and a few leaves of nasturtium acted only to add nuance and further highlight the intricacy of the produce. Another signature much like the soup I can only say that this dish was perhaps even better – a pure distillation of flavors showing the chef’s intimate understanding of how to extract the maximum experience from an ingredient.

With the format of the 110EU special lunch traditionally appetizer/main/dessert I will note that our main course selection raised the price of the experience to 150EU but in reality it was this specific choice that spurred our decision to visit Guy Savoy Paris in the first place – you see, much like the Peas all Around, the Volaille de Bresse en Vessie was not something that could be accommodated on my Vegas visit though Franck assured me that if I ever made it to Paris I should be sure to ask in advance because “they can always get good bird there, even when it is not on the menu.” …and ask I did.

A grand presentation if there ever was one, the “Volaille de Bresse Pochee en Vessie – Riz au safran, jus truffie-foie gras” arrived carried by two men and to the amusement of everyone in the room was deflated, carved, and plated tableside as Hubert stood by and described the heritage of the preparation, the hen, and even the rice. Beginning first with the succulent breast meat as the dark was returned to the kitchen to be pan-finished everything about this bird was a revelation – as a matter of fact, it was chicken that did not “taste like chicken” but rather something more clean, more buttery, and more intense. With rice equally impressive – nearly risotto in its texture with notes of saffron peaking through the aromatic sauce – and buttery vegetables there is no doubt this was the best chicken I’d ever had and although I generally prefer light meat even the dark meat – added along with more rice, sauce, and vegetables as we worked on the breast – was magnificent and with Erika getting full my third serving (essentially twice the size of the second) was equally exceptional.

With plates cleared it was my expectation that dessert would arrive next and having experienced the parade of sweets at Guy Savoy Las Vegas I knew we would be in for a treat, but instead what followed was another visit from Guy Savoy who said Franck had written to him and said he wanted us to experience the cheese cart “on his tab.” Never one to decline such an gracious offer but knowing Erika was already near bursting I suggested perhaps sharing a course and with that the cart with at least thirty was wheeled over and described at length with our eventual selections including a Triple Cream Brie de Meux, an ashed Goat cheese, 2-year aged Comte, Morbier, Roquefort, and a potent Bleu de Vache along with fresh warm slices of Apricot and Walnut Raisin Breads.

With coffee offered (again “on Franck’s tab) but declined we were told it would be a few moments before our dessert was prepared “a la minute” and as such we were brought “some treats” including a strawberry atop lemon meringue with vanilla Chantilly, a Grape stuffed with Rice Putting, and a Floating Island Cube with Lime and Red Fruits – all tasty, light, and the grape particularly a very interesting textural experience.

For our dessert proper I have to say I was slightly conflicted when selecting as I was not terribly impressed by either of the selections in Las Vegas and as such I decided to keep things simple – a choice that would pay off in the form of the best Mille-Feuille we had in Paris. Again presented by Hubert who described the dish as Mille-Feuille “minute” with vanilla pod custard it was not only the vertical size texture of this pastry that impressed, but also the texture and flavor with puffy layers of pastry shattering on pressure and custard loaded with milky sweetness and potent notes of vanilla. With bite after bite remaining a balance of crispy and creamy even with an extra dollop of custard added to each plate it was actually my sister who commented that she couldn’t believe something so large and decadent could be so light.

In order to again cleanse our palates before *more* dessert, our next dish was Earl Grey Sorbet with Lemon and Black Pepper – a lovely creamy concoction that tasted something akin to American sweet tea with a bit of bite.

For our final “course” of the meal, just like in Vegas, we were visited by Savoy’s famous carte of desserts – a veritable cornucopia of puddings, candies, cookies, and treats. With each option first described by the sever our selections would start with Crème caramel, Banana Sorbet, Chocolate Mousse, Vanilla Rice Pudding, and Rose Rice Pudding with a second round (for me, while Erika slipped into a food induced stupor) consisting of a Chocolate Macaron, Vanilla Marshmallow, Toffee Nougat, Peanut Marshmallow, Coffee Macaron, and slice of Chocolate Tart. With each quite tasty, particularly the Rose Rice Pudding, the Vanilla Macaron, and the Toffee Nougat I will note that a third round was offered and although there were still more options to try I decided the better part of valor was to be able to walk out rather than be rolled.
With the bill paid and a copy of the menu requested Hubert stopped by once again to make sure there was “nothing else we desired” and while I certainly should have liked to try pretty much everything on the menu I instead said “no, everything was wonderful,” and with that we were escorted to the door where upon emerging a small Scotty dog was seen wandering by with tongue lolling, a smile on his face and seemingly without a care in the world – a feeling entirely paralleling my own. In the end a visit to Guy Savoy is something I recommend whole heartedly because while it may indeed not be the “very best” food in Paris (debatable as the chicken and Mille-Feuille are the best I’ve had anywhere,) it was indeed the very best time I had at a table in Paris and the experience – that extra thing beyond the food that I value so much – is unforgettable.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, France, Ice Cream, Macaroon, Paris, Restaurant Guy Savoy, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation