…I’m no stranger to Bouchon or its sister Bakery – I’ve been to each of them at least once and to the Vegas location multiple times on each previous trip.Like my previous stays in Vegas this vacation would be no different – except this time the offerings featured a holiday appropriate theme.Visiting the bakery four times during out five days in Vegas many repeats were ordered and all remained as excellent as prior – the Carrot Cake cookie, the Nutter Butter, the Red Velvet Cupcake, the Pistachio Macaron, and the Pain au Chocolate to name a few.Focusing my own ordering on new items and holiday themed selections I managed to sample six new items during the various visits.
Beginning first with the croissant of the month, December featured Dutch Apple.While I personally feel that “croissant” is a bit of a misnomer for such a dense pastry, the dough was unmistakably the same – the difference was the presentation.Essentially a hemi-sected butter croissant topped with cinnamon roasted apples and buttery strudel topping the flavor was that of apple crisp in a warm and portable form.
Moving on to the holiday items, my first would be the Christmas Tree TKO.For those unfamiliar with Keller’s famous take on the Oreo, the recipe is out there and the cookie is divine.This time cut into the shape of a Christmas tree and filled with a mint chocolate cream I personally fancy the original more so as I find mint to be overpowering.On the contrary, however, my mother loved this cookie and ended up with two in her luggage in addition to the two she ate while in Vegas.
Another holiday special featured a frosted shortbread snowflake.At a cost of $4.50 the palm-sized cookie likely weighed in at nearly 8 ounces and if I had to guess the cost was almost entirely based on the full stick of butter included.Dense and crisp, the cookie quite literally melted in the mouth leaving behind a sweet buttery memory.Not for the faint of heart (or high in cholesterol) a single cookie was almost “too much,” but thankfully there was a group of four to split the pair we ordered.
The gingerbread man (and accompanying woman) were a bit of a letdown in my personal opinion.Lightly frosted and quite thin the cookies were hefty in cinnamon and sweetness, but rather lacking in the characteristic gingerbread flavor.
A fan of all things mint and equally of macarons, the Peppermint Macaron was a no-brainer for my mother.For those unfamiliar with Bouchon’s style of Macaron, they are approximately the size of an adult male palm and when fresh they are every bit on par with the best I’ve tasted in the United States.A shining example, the peppermint variation featured the characteristic crackling shell which gave way to the soft and supple cookie within.Filled with a cocoa accented peppermint ganache I know some folks contest that Bouchon’s macarons are too sweet and while I’ll fully admit this was the sweetest I’ve tasted, the flavor was akin to a York Peppermint Patty in cookie form – it was delicious.
The final selection of our visits to Bouchon Bakery would be the Chocolate Bouche de Noel.Served as a 1.5 inch thick slice of the “log” and garnished with meringue mushrooms and cocoa covered almond stones, the chocolate Génoise was rolled and frosted with chocolate buttercream and lightly dusted with confectioner’s sugar snow.Dense and filling I was glad I ordered coffee with the cake while my companions contested this was the sort of dish best enjoyed with milk.
Rarely one to revisit the same spot multiple times at all let alone on the same visit I will continue to frequent Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery whenever I have the chance – like when I visited the Beverly Hills location on December 22nd and the Vegas location for Christmas brunch.
While I cannot be certain of it I’m willing to wager that when Aria was conceptualizing their restaurant collection it was not Shawn McClain that they expected to steal the spotlight – a Beard Award winner in his own right, McClain’s fame has largely been limited to the windy city and Sage would be matched up against culinary giants such as Masa, Serrano, Mina, and Vongerichten.Flash forward one year, thousands of diners, multiple awards, and myriad local and national publications naming Sage “best new restaurant” – obviously the midwest has been hiding a secret.With Spring soon to close (rumor has it McClain will be expanding his Vegas foothold) and Green Zebra and Custom House still functioning at a very high level I felt somewhat untrue to my roots choosing Sage as my first McClain experience, but at the same time I’d heard the meal was one that shouldn’t be missed.
Having done my research and scouted the menus I called in advance to find out if a tailored tasting menu could be arranged – not a problem at all I was informed by assistant general manager Elaine Hartline.Wanting to experience as great a variety as possible during my visit I suggested nine courses and was quoted a price of $130 plus tax and gratuity – a veritable bargain by Vegas fine dining standards.Arriving early for my 7pm reservation I located Sage easily upon exiting Crystals and wandered the Aria property, perhaps my favorite in Vegas, before checking in at the hostess stand where I was greeted by two lovely young ladies and subsequently by Elaine herself, with a copy of the tailored menu printed out and presented to me on arrival to the table.
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Having already walked past the expansive bar and through the well adorned lounge I must say that the dining room at Sage is amongst the most dramatic in Vegas.High ceilings, excellent spacing, minimalist art on the walls, plenty of dark tones and piano finish, plus ample lighting at each seat without being too bright between tables – the word “sexy” comes to mind immediately.With ambient forgettable music playing overhead the location and setting does not hide the fact that you are in Vegas, but at the same time you feel miles away from a “casino restaurant.”Not as secluded as Savoy, Robuchon, Twist, or Alex, but a different experience entirely – Sage feels accessible, a place where a drink and appetizers, a course or two a la carte, or a tasting menu are equally valued and nice jeans and a button down shirt look just as appropriate as the Tom Ford suit you could buy next door.
Greeted promptly by the captain of my service team, a friendly yet somewhat smug fellow named Jason, I was offered a drink which I declined after a day that had begun at 4:30am Eastern time – water was ordered as my sole beverage and remained greater than 3/4 full by the exemplary ancillary staff throughout the meal.Affirming that there were no dietary restrictions the next person I would meet was the bread man who also kept me quite full throughout the meal.With two options including bacon brioche and a crunchy salted baguette the breads both featured a nice crumb and were nicely complimented house-whipped Midwestern cows butter and Murray River sea salt.
Starting the meal, the amuse of the night would prove a subtle opening volley on an otherwise heavy menu.Described as Dungeness crab salad with Picholine Olive and Sutsuma Orange the crab itself was sweet and flavorful – accented only mildly by a light vinaigrette.With the olives lending their characteristic bitter flavor and the orange proving an ample foil, the serving size was also quite impressive for an amuse.
Beginning the menu proper (I’d told the chefs to send out my courses in whatever order they felt ideal) my first course would be perhaps Sage’s most famous dish – the Foie Gras Creme Brulee with Blood Orange, Gran Marnier Glaze, Cocoa Nibs, and Salted Brioche.Cracking the crisp crust and taking a bite the custard was ethereal – light yet harboring the very essence of liver with notes of egg, orange, and cocoa largely detectable on the palate more so than the tongue.Eating slowly each bite was as good as the last and pairing the custard with the crunchy and buttery brioche was every bit on par with the best torchon I’ve ever had – at The French Laundry – and if possible Sage’s version was even lighter and more flavorful.
Already abuzz with anticipation of what could follow such an incredible opening act my second course would prove equally competent.Titled Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi with Smoked Ricotta Cream Sauce, Truffle Puree, and Parsnips the pasta was absolutely flawless – pillows of potato accented air that dissolved on the tongue.Utilizing crispy parsnips and fresh spinach for textural variation while liberally topping the plate with fresh shaved truffles and a pleasantly subtle cream sauce with hits of parsley and chive the entirety of the amalgam tasted something akin to a baked potato with the aroma of truffles.
For my third course I received the only dish that did not wow me in every regard.Described as Main Lobster Agnolotti with Lemon Olive Oil, Mascarpone, Haricots Verts, and Mustard I was hesitant the moment I heard the word mustard and while the flavor was understated, it still overwhelmed the sweet and understated lobster.Again using incredibly fresh vegetables, this time haricot verts, to add texture to the creamy pasta I will note that the Agnolotti themselves were exquisite, but as usual I simply find mustard too pungent a spice for ingredients as pleasantly nuanced as mascarpone and lobster.
As good as the foie gras and gnocchi were, my favorite savory of the meal would turn out to be the fourth course – Slow-poached Organic Farm Egg, Smoked Potato, Shaved Winter Truffle, Toasted Country Bread.Always one to favor egg dishes, everything from the presentation to the flavor of this course was immaculate.Served in a bowl at least 1 foot in diameter with a creamy foam of creme fraiche topped with shaved truffles as the only visual stimulus on arrival, the smell of the dish was that of truffle and smokiness.Plunging my spoon deep and piercing the creamy egg I mixed slowly while enjoying the aroma before taking a bite – smooth potato gratin, creamy egg, the mild tang of the creme fraiche, and the aroma of truffle rising to the palate.Again eating slowly and using the bread to soak up every last drop there is no doubt that this dish falls on my year’s top ten flavors.
Moving on to heavier courses, dish five featured Roasted Sweetbreads with glazed pork belly, creamy white polenta, crispy spinach, and trumpet mushrooms.Served still sizzling in the roasting pan this dish would prove to be the smallest serving of the night – thankfully so considering how rich it all was.With a base of white polenta made with cream and mascarpone the next layer featured crispy spinach leafs and atop this was a fricasse of two pan seared and creamy sweetbreads, two chunks of pork belly, and a handful of fibrous mushrooms.Cheese, pork belly, sweetbreads – really, the flavors had no chance to fail – but what made the dish truly lovely were the mushrooms and crispy spinach which served to balance the hefty proteins.
My sixth plate would prove to be another stunner – and the best duck I’ve yet to experience in Las Vegas.Titled Grimaud Farms Duck, Celery Root Puree, Confit Leg, Heirloom Apples and also featuring crispy Fried Kale and Black Mission Figs the duck itself was meaty without being gamey and fatty without being overly so.With crispy skin the three one ounce slices of duck were perched atop an unctuous and salty confit of leg while the plate was topped with a reduction of fig and balsamic.Sitting at the base of the plate, a pave of celery root topped with apples and figs – bitter and sweet, multi-textured, and seamlessly melding with the duck forms above.
My final savory found me getting full – something that doesn’t often happen with a simple 9-courses, but I’m rather certain Sage was serving me “full portions,” despite the low price and extended menu.Arriving hot and smelling of sweetness and smoke, Iberico Pork Loin with Brussels Sprouts, Crispy Confit Shoulder, and Smoked Dates was nicely done and surprisingly light for a pork dish.Featuring two thin slices of loin crusted with brown sugar the pork itself was easily cut with the edge of a fork and its succulent flavor was well met by the vegetal components of Brussels Sprout Leafs and the smoky cut dates.Tucked beneath the loin, the “crispy confit shoulder” was actually something like an egg roll made with phyllo dough and porchetta with a puree of dates mixed in.
Impressed and full I can honestly say that Sage was the first time in a while that two desserts seemed like perhaps “too much,” but with a pastry kitchen like that at Sage I would have been a fool to cut myself off.Taking a small break while I enjoyed a French press of Avanti coffee, I chatted with my server a bit and was once again visited by Ms. Hartline who wanted to make sure everything was going well.Asked if I was ready to proceed with desserts, I agreed.
Arriving first, Winter Spice Cake Doughnut Holes with Malted Milkshake and Fresh Cranberry Sauce featured half a dozen golf-ball sized doughnuts piping hot and coated in cinnamon, nutmeg, and sugar.“Made for dipping” according to my server, the paired sauce was more cranberry puree than sauce and much sweeter than any traditional cranberry sauce I’ve ever tasted.Intensely sweet, the doughnut and sauce combination was nicely balanced by the creamy and mild vanilla tones of the milkshake.
Following the doughnuts, a much more dense dessert, but the obvious “must order” for myself.Indeed served as a full portion as I’d seen others receive this dish a la carte, Warm Brioche Bread Pudding with Roasted Pecans, Myer’s Rum Sauce, and Brown Butter Ice Cream was absolutely the best non-chocolate bread pudding I’ve ever tasted.Soaked through yet delicately crisp on the exterior the buttery brioche was spongy without being wet or heavy.Topped with a thick and boozy sauce and then with a quenelle of rich and buttery ice cream the dish found contrast in temperature while crunchy pecans proved a crunchy foil to the otherwise soft and intensely sweet dish.
Completely and utterly satisfied, my final taste of Sage would be delivered with the modest tab – a small glass of Orange Caramel Infused Hot Chocolate.Tasty and rich I do wonder whether this dish pays homage to the time McClain spent at Trio (and its disciple TRU) where Tramonto and Gand are known to complete meals with a similar citrus infused cocoa.
Settling the tab with a sizable tip I collected my menu and made my way for the doors.Despite being nearly 10:15pm, the restaurant remained at least 1/2 full while the lounge area and bar were seated at approximately 75% capacity.Bid farewell by my server and breadman, bartenders and Ms. Hartline everything about the visit felt very friendly and inviting, much like the cuisine.The first dinner in a truly over-the-top week of eating, I still look back fondly on my experience at Sage.Call it Midwestern sensibility if you like, but there is simply something to be said for the elegant yet accessible nature of what McClain and team are doing at Sage – the space, service, and prices are nothing like the top tier of Vegas dining – but the experience and food every bit as impressive.
…the new kids on the block, but not really, is probably the best way to describe the collection of restaurants at Vegas’ newest property – the Cosmopolitan.Sheik, swank, dazzling, and quite frankly over-the-top I have to say the property is impressive and actually downright sexy – it somehow feels “softer” than other Vegas resorts.Obviously taking a cue from the rest of Vegas (save for WynnCore,) The Cosmo outsourced its dining operations to a number of well known chefs and aside from a Conant and Andres most of them opted to port over a previous concept to the luxurious confines instead of creating something new.With 8 days of eating planned across Las Vegas and Los Angeles it seemed only fitting that my first meal of the visit would be at David Meyers’ LA import Comme Ca.
Trained by Charlie Trotter and Daniel Boulud (as well as at Les Crayères,) Meyers is perhaps the least well known of the star chefs at The Cosmopolitan with all of his previous efforts located in Southern California – first Sona, later Comme Ca, and recently Pizzeria Ortica – but unlike the others his resume includes a Michelin Star.Arriving early for my noon lunch reservation I fully anticipated some kinks in a 2-day old restaurant…what I didn’t expect was to find Meyers working the kitchen, the room, and even the bar.I also didn’t expect to find a room quite so modern.
Arriving early I was greeted pleasantly and led swiftly to a two-top near the floor to ceiling windows looking out onto the rainy strip.Simple and clean on the interior with a fantastic looking patio adorned with red lamps for outdoor dining the feel of Comme Ca was not exactly “French Bistro” but “French Vegas Bistro” – clearly a stylistic choice befitting Meyers and a move I personally enjoyed since Pinot, Bouchon, and even Mon Ami Gabi seem to try to hide the fact that they are indeed located in Las Vegas.
Provided a menu, wine, and cocktail list I browsed for a bit before my server, a humble and helpful gent named Robert (originally from just up the road in Sandusky Ohio) greeted me, answered a few questions (soup du jour, no substitutions on the lunch prix fixe, and not all the charcuterie was in stock yet,) and took my order.Sitting back and listening to the soft French-pop over the speakers it was a matter of moments before my first taste of Comme Ca would arrive – a hot and buttery soft baguette with a texture almost like an Amish pretzel – a nice start and in my opinion superior to Bouchon’s famed epi in all ways except the ice-cold butter (which was largely unnecessary given the buttery flavor of the bread.)
For my first proper dish I opted for the $15 selection of charcuterie in addition to the $28 three course prix fixe.With the pork rillets unavailable I opted for the pate, head cheese, and chicken liver mousse.Served along with lettuce, toasted baguette, cornichons, and mustard the portions were ample and each selection was nicely prepared though I actually found the chicken liver somewhat less flavorful than I’d have hoped while the head cheese was flawless and sliced thinly enough to melt on the tongue leaving behind nothing but a bold and smoky sapor.
For the proper first course of my lunch I would receive the soup du jour – butternut squash bisque with lardons, toasted pumpkin seeds, and crème fraiche.A larger bowl than I’d have expected for a prix fixe the “bisque” was more ”veloute” with its creamy yet vegetal finish and a slight tang from the crème fraiche.With intermittent flares of crunch and salinity from the lardons and seeds the dish was nicely prepared with hints of nutmeg and pepper occasionally shining through and again, the portion was unexpectedly sizable.
With the place slowly filling to approximately half capacity the service remained excellent throughout – water never dropped below half full and I was checked in on frequently.With approximately 15 minutes passing between soup and main course my next dish to arrive would be one of my standards – the Croque Madame.Served with a frisee salad topped with mild vinaigrette the Croque itself featured two slices of country bread – buttered and pan toasted inside and out – envelopingtwo thin-cut pieces of ham and gruyere with a second layer of gruyere melted and toasted atop the sandwich.Crowning the composition with a lightly salted sunny side egg and served piping hot this was a very competent Croque with excellent ingredients and the ham/egg/cheese/bread amalgam still remains my favorite sandwich ever since I was a boy and Denny’s Moons over My-Hammy was the standard bearer.
Sitting for approximately 15 minutes between my Croque and dessert I enjoyed three cups of Illy Regular blend while listening to the French-Pop overhead and watching the motion on the strip.Sated but certainly not stuffed prior to dessert I was pleasantly surprised when my profiteroles arrived – three portions of choux pastry approximately one and a half times the size of a golf ball topped with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream and wisps of spun sugar.Topped tableside with thick Valhrona chocolate fudge I was further surprised when I plunged my spoon into the pile only to discover the pastries themselves were stuffed with a mellow pastry cream.A full portion as part of a prix fixe the choice was certainly a gluttonous choice at lunch but every bit worth the calories.
Finishing the meal and paying the modest tab (about 35-40% less than a similar 4-course at Bouchon) I made my way to the door where I was stopped by Chef Meyers and a man who introduced himself as the Dining Room Manager who asked how everything had been – while I regrettably forgot to ask for a signed menu despite the opportunity, both the men were pleasantly conversant and seemed quite interested in what I (and multiple diners before me) thought of the food, room, and service.Impressed that such a new restaurant was executing so well I told them exactly that and both seemed pleased and thanked me for coming in – a nice gesture to end an excellent lunch.Whether Comme Ca will remain as impressive once Meyers returns to Los Angeles remains to be seen, but for now I wholeheartedly recommend a visit, whether for a full meal or just drinks, appetizers, and excellent service in a beautiful space.
…I’ll be the first to admit I do not watch Top Chef – as a matter of fact, I don’t watch The Food Network at all unless one of my favorite chefs happens to be battling it out on Iron Chef.It is with that disclaimer that I note I made a reservation at Stephanie Izard’s curiously named The Girl and The Goat almost a month and a half in advance – and lucky I did as reservations were completely booked only a few days later – for the whole night.My reasons for making the reservation were two-fold, number one I had a 7:50 flight out of O’Hare and TGatG opens at 4:30.Number two – well, to call the Evanston native’s restaurant the hottest ticket in town may be overstating considering Alinea, but given the difference in styles and duration of meals I’d almost have to give the not to Izard for the time being…basically, I wanted to see if the hype was justified.
Formerly working under Shawn McClain at Spring and later opening her own restaurant which subsequently went under due to financial issues, Izard herself is probably most well known for winning on Top Chef.Looking into the restaurant’s title largely out of curiosity (thank goodness google images has a filter) I found out that apparently Izard’s last name is a type of Pyrenees mountain goat and the original title was to be “the drunken goat,” but that changed due to copyrights.Reading more about the young chef it turns out that the drinking and partying may have actually played a part in the long delay in TGatG’s opening, as well – for all intents and purposes it seems Chef Izard had been living quite well since her sudden celebrity.
Arriving at the West Loop location (walking by Avec which was jammed packed at 3:45 en route) the area is decidedly gritty, but not unattractive our seedy in any way.Dark on the outside I sat across the street sipping a coffee before the Goat would open its heavy black doors to welcome me in – employees arrived by the car-full, all dressed casually in jeans and t-shirts.When the time hit 4:15 I decided to head in and was greeted promptly by an attractive young lady who said they’d start seating at 4:30 and invited me to sit at the bar.Opting instead for a low leather couch in the lounge area I was admittedly taken by the contrast of dark and light woods, plethoric open kitchen, and intriguing soundtrack playing overhead.By 4:29 the lounge was jammed packed, as was the bar.
Withone couple arriving before me I was seated second – and the seat was a delightful and unexpected surprise – on a bar stool at in front of the kitchen where Chef Izard herself and a team of at least twelve were working at a frenzied yet controlled pace.Bread stations, meat stations, fish stations, sauce stations, and more were abuzz despite the fact that not a single order had yet been placed.Throughout the evening Izard would be there on the line with her cooks chopping, finishing, tweaking, and educating – always with a smile.She emerged occasionally from the kitchen to greet a friend or patron but all told it was clear that as much as she is “the boss” she is also “one of the guys/gals.”
Seated at the far right end of the bar I watched intently throughout the evening and conversed at length with the crew in front of me about what they were doing, what I do, the Chicago dining scene, Michelin, and all sorts of info – as it turns out one of the chefs there was actually affected by the same exact Schwa issue as I just three days prior.With water filled I was presented a drink list which I declined and the menu featuring 10 vegetables, 10 fish, 10 meats, 3 breads, and 4 roast beasts.With options ranging from whole goat leg, to grilled goat t-bone, to smoked goat pizza, to hiramasa crudo with crisp pork belly almost everything on the dish sounded unique and delicious.While my server made plenty of suggestions, most (surprisingly) for lower priced items, I trusted my gut and went with one item from each column.
Having explained to my hilarious and helpful server that I’d be flying out that evening the evening’s dining got started quickly after ordering – the first dish to arrive would be my bread selection.While some may quibble about a restaurant charging for bread, if most breads were baked in house and tasted this good I’d gladly pay.Served as a sliced loaf and piping hot from the oven, Spence Wheat Bread with “Hunk-a-burnin’ Love Butter” with Bacon, Banana, and Peanut Butter plus Wildflower Honeycomb was excellent.Hearty and fragrant on its own the bread was only improved with the decidedly calorific spread.Adding honey only made things more interesting and I only wished my sister, a fan of such sandwiches (sans bacon) in her childhood could have been there to share – it was definitely filling.
The second course to arrive, as I was enjoying the bread and chatting with the chefs, would be Kabocha Squash Ravioli with Mushroom Raisin Ragout, Brussels leaves, Shroom Crème Fraiche.Having asked my server about portion sizes to avoid large plates this dish was significantly larger than billed – seven Raviolis compared to the four promised – and each was delectable, perfectly cooked, and stuffed to near bursting with a nutty but sweet puree of squash.Complimenting the raviolis was a light and earthy whipped sauce, pungent Brussels sprouts, and fibrous mushrooms intermingling with golden raisins.Never one to complain about more food if it is good I have no complaints at all.
The next course to arrive would be perhaps the most talked about dish at TGatG – the Wood Oven Roased Pig Face with sunny side egg, tamarind, cilantro, potato stix.Described at length in many of blogs and reviews (most hilariously here:http://www.chicagogluttons.com/the-girl-and-the-goat-chicago/) the dish was every bit as good as the rumors.With the pig’s tongue rolled in the center of the facial fat and musculature and formed into a sausage the braised dish was crisp on the exterior and creamy within – something akin to trotters but more, if it is a word, porky.Adding some levity to the decidedly heavy protein were drizzles of savory cilantro and tamarind oils while lightly fried thin cut potatoes added some crunch.Topping the dish with a golden fried egg topped with sea salt and black pepper I watched the whole dish come together at the braising station before my eyes and as much as I enjoyed eating it, watching the construction was even more exciting – without overexaggerating, the kitchen at TGatG is every bit as much fun to watch as Volt’s Table 21 or Ko.
The final savory of the evening would be from the fish menu – though titling it fish may be cheating.While everything I had at Izard’s establishment was great, it was the Lamb Sausage Stuffed Calamari with Sweet Garlic, Sweetbread Crisp, Currant Saor alone that made me want to stand up and bow to the chefs behind the counter.With three perfect cephalopods stuffed with succulent lamb at its core the dish really didn’t need much more – but then you add two crispy chunks of thymus, pureed and sliced roasted garlic, and a sweet reduction of currants – after my dinner at Schwa I knew sweetening up protein was “in” but this dish did it with pizzazz.An absolute must order that shows off Izard’s deft hand with seafood and the restaurant’s house curing of sausage and salumi all at once.
Having eaten my savories in just under an hour I gladly agreed to take a look at the dessert menu when it was offered– a decision I’d strongly recommend every diner at TGatG also consider.From Shiitake Gelato and Maple Fat Gelato from Black Dog (with a cute “Shout out to Jessie at Black Dog Gelato.Werd” at the bottom of the menu) the four choices could only be described as “eclectic” and as such I had to order two.
Arriving first would be the “house special” according to my server and the chef – Cocoa Nip Donuts with pomegranate Ganache, brut sabayon, smoked pear, pine nut brittle.With the donuts plucked directly from the deep fryer each was stuffed with bitter dark chocolate and resting atop a bed of small chocolate chips and boozy cream.Adding sweetness but leaving the dish largely bitter-sweet was a compote of pears and pomegranate plus a saccharine sweet brittle adding crunch.Amazing interplay of flavors, textures, and temperatures – but the best was yet to come.
My final taste at TGatG would be delivered with the phrase – “what better way to end an evening than with a sticky date?”Cracking a smile thinking “wow, I can’t think of many places I eat where someone would say that” I received Sticky Date Cake with three philosopher’s marshmallow, meyer lemon quince, and pepita crunch.Thick and dense the date cake was a textbook preparation – incredibly sweet, heavy with spice, and steaming hot.Topping the dish with a slowly melting marshmallow that tasted faintly of beer and tangy chopped quince the whole dish was pepped up again by a “brittle,” this time from candied squash seeds.Asking me how it was the chef informed me this was a new addition to the menu for the coming weeks and I strongly suggested he whip one up for himself during a break – and keep it on the menu for some time to come.
Bill paid, tip left, and bags collected I made my way out the door and was bid farewell by many of the staff.Making my way to the train station just past 6:00pm and to O’Hare by 6:45 I made my flight with ease and slept all the way home, full of the memories of the trip past.On my arrival home I was met with the news that Michelin had released the first half of their awards – the Bib Gourmand list – and The Girl and the Goat had been named to the list.While Bib Gourmand is certainly an honor, having been to Casa Mono and other Michelin Starred “bargain” spaces in New York, Los Angeles, and San Francisco all I can say is that The Girl and the Goat is every bit worth the hype and after another year of maturing I’ve no doubt it will net a star if things continue as they are.
The phrase “accidental expertise” was applied by them, not me – and when I say them I’m referring to The Hearty Boys, Dan and Steve.Never professionally trained but known by millions due to stints on the food network, a best selling cookbook, and a ten-plus year old catering company I’d always heard of the couple’s unique urban/casual style but had never been in Chicago for a full Sunday to partake in their brunch – neither at their first eatery, HB, nor the newer and more ‘refined’ Lakeview storefront simply called Hearty.With my sister and her friend planning for an early afternoon departure and myself flying out late I figured this visit would be a perfect time to see what the fellas’ had to offer.
Arriving shortly after the small shop opened it doors we were greeted by a friendly young lady at the door and with reservation made we were led promptly to a solid wooden four-top in the middle of the mid-American themed room, complete with exposed brick and a unique wall mounted fireplace, plus “floral” centerpieces made of cut soda cans.In the corner, a television played old Droopy and Tom & Jerry Cartoons while the overhead soundtrack piped in a random array of feel good tunes.
Greeted next by one of our two primary servers, a tall man my sister thought looked “exactly like the server from Lifehouse” we were presented with menus and our waters were filled.Myself opting for a bargain $2 bottomless cup of Metropolis Indonesian coffee and Erika choosing from a selection of Stash Tea our service was excellent throughout – suggestions were thoughtful, drinks remained full, everything arrived piping hot, and everything was done with a smile and no-hassle approach even as the restaurant reached capacity by 9:45am.
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With orders placed we sat back and chatted for a while and watched the bartender throw together any number of unique drinks for extremely mixed crowd – young and old, gay and straight – and everyone seemed to be having a great time even prior to imbibing, moreso later.
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With a unique but small menu and no desserts at brunch our decisions were diverse but rather easy given our own personal preferences – this is a menu with something for everyone.Starting things off, a Scratch made Biscuits with pumpkin clove butter.Tasty, large, buttery, and aromatic this was the sort of biscuit you’d expect further south – but the butter itself was not especially apparent. Good, but not on the level of the biscuits at Big Jones the day before.
For Nate, again abstaining from the sweets, a tarragon chicken & brie omelet with smoky breakfast potatoes and a scratch made biscuits with pumpkin clove butter was selected.While I did not taste the dish, it certainly looked and sounded good.
My sister’s selection, Cinnamon Mascarpone Stuffed French Toast with raisin nut cocoa and pure maple syrup looked and smelled heavenly with accents of cinnamon and cocoa prominent and the syrup inherently sweet.Utilizing a thick brioche as the base, however, this French Toast suffered the same fate as the version at Big Jones in that the interior of the bread remained largely uncooked and doughy while the exterior was appropriately crisp and buttery.Again, perhaps I just like a custard French Toast because my sister seemed to enjoy it – the cocoa baked walnuts were wonderful either way.
For my breakfast – never one to turn down sweet and savory – Chicken and Pumpkin Waffles with boneless southern fried chicken breast, house made waffle, quince butter, and Cajun maple shot.Tasty and fragrant, the waffle portion of my dish was excellent – crisp exterior and soft within.In the savory department, the chicken itself was somewhat overcooked but the decidedly spicy and thin batter was delicious.Adding ample butter and the hot sauce infused syrup lent an extra degree of fruity heat to the plate – not that it was needed given the black pepper laden batter, but it worked.
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With no desserts offered we sat and chatted for a bit while finishing our coffee, never feeling rushed to leave the bill was presented and after paying we made our way to the street.Looking back at the meal I have to say that given the hype I left somewhat unimpressed, but perhaps inappropriately so.While nothing in particular “wowed” in the manner than many Chicago breakfast/brunch spots do, the service was superb and the setting was fun.Claiming that they appeal to the gourmand and the kid in each of us on their website I’d have to say I agree – I simply lean more heavily to the gourmand side and, per their own admission The Hearty Boys are all about upscale comfort food, not haute cuisine.
Leaving Hearty my sister and Nate were heading back to Oxford and asked where they could drop me off – figuring Fox & Obel was rather central to the area I’d like to browse I asked them first to swing by our missed stop from the day prior – Floriole Bakery.Named “Best Bakery” in Chicago (In a city that contains Fritz) by Chicago Magazine and featuring what many were describing as the best Canele in the city (In a city that contains L2o) I figured Floriole was a can’t miss.
Arriving slightly later than the previous day the café was abuzz when we arrived – myriad bakers buzzing about the kitchen and the staff stocking the case with 20-30 classic French pastries from bread to baguette to pound cake to tarte to quiche to croissant.Advertising that everything was made with European butter and organic or local grains and produce I noted at least ten items I wanted to try but limited myself to three as they’d be serving as my daytime snack before an early dinner.With friendly service abounding I paid the relatively hefty tab of $9 plus a dollar tip and made my way back to the car.
Beginning first with the Macaron – $1.50 for a rather small serving, I made the choice of coffee over caramel and can simply say it was okay.Purportedly fresh from the oven I found the cookie to be somewhat dry while the interior was rich coffee cream.While better than a “doughy” macaron, I can’t say my first bite was a good impression.
Improving significantly on the small cookie the $4.25 Almond Croissant was everything I’d hope from a place billed as the “best” bakery.Flaky and crisp exterior, buttery smooth interior with aromatic notes of almond and a sweet almond paste the croissant stood up nicely to mastication with its springy interior giving way to bite without distorting the shape of the pastry.While not as good as some elsewhere (Payard, Petrossian,) potentially the best I’ve had in Chicago.
The final selection, a classic Canele de Bordeaux baked in a bee’s wax mold was superb – crunchy shell, eggy custard center, not too sweet.While it would require some side to side, bite to bite comparison I’d place it on par with that of L2o and La Colombe (Philadelphia) for best yet.
Having sampled only three of a large collection of fine pastry’s the verdict is still out on my end as to whether or not Floriole holds up to its reputation as best in Chicago, but either way it is an excellent bakery provided everyone gets to work on time and the selections are ready and warm.
Next to Charlie Trotter’s iconic restaurant, Everest stands as perhaps the most well known elder statesman in a dining scene dominated by cutting edge technique and “hyper-modern” cuisine.While both styles clearly have their place in 21st century dining, Chicago’s predilection for molecular gastronomy somehow makes a place such as Everest stand out in a way it may not in San Francisco or New York.Other factors that makes Everest stand out – its glorious location on the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange, four star reviews by the Tribune and Sun Times, designations by Relais & Chateaux/Relais Gourmand, Traditions & Qualite, and Le Grande Table du Monde – and just days ago, a Michelin Star.
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Helmed by Chef Jean Joho, a native of Alsace and a James Beard and Bon Appetit Chef of the Year award winner, and part of the LettuceEntertainYou (TRU, L2o, etc) empire Everest had been on my list for some time but always seemed to get overlooked for someplace less traditional and more innovative.Having originally planned this meal with my friend Dave who dined with me the night prior at Schwa due to Saturday family obligations, I opted to keep my reservation this time and dine alone – after all, I’d communicated extensively with the lovely special events manager, Megan Laskoski, who had helped to set up a personalized extended tasting menu by Chef Joho for evening – I’d have been a fool to take a pass.
Arriving minutes early for my 7:00pm reservation after a brisk walk from Millennium Park I made my way into the building, through security, and to the first of two sets of elevators – I guess the location comes with a price.Checking my bag after the specially designated elevator transported myself and another couple from thirty-nine to forty I headed for the end of the hall and turned left to find one of the most grand dining rooms I’ve seen.Thick white tablecloths, elegant monogrammed carpeting, chandeliers, and a view that went for miles to the right and the hostess stand with none other than Ms. Laskoski at my left – greeted pleasantly I was led swiftly to a table towards the windows – surprisingly given the current economic climate the restaurant was packed.
Seated in a comfortable padded chair I was to decide between still/sparkling/tap and I was next presented with a wine-list slightly thinner than the phonebook in my home town.With my special menu noted I was left to browse the drinks and upon deciding against alcohol I was asked if I might enjoy a non-alcoholic option such as Martinelli’s Sparkling Cider, an option that actually sounded quite nice.Having never had a $10 cider before I will definitely note it was sweeter and more punchy than the average apple cider the mouth feel was quite similar to champagne.
With a female captain and two younger males managing my table service was excellent throughout the evening – everything was presented with full description, the team was aware of preparation techniques, and my water glass remained persistently full.Presented with a signed copy of my night’s menu I did have to inform the team that I’d specifically requested the Foie Gras be included in the meal (it was not on the menu, but was added without question) and I was a little disappointed that the Duck Margaret would not be part of the evening, but otherwise everything sounded wonderful – even the timing was exacting with each dish arriving approximately 10-15 minutes following my completion of the prior course.
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Beginning the night’s dining would be a trio of les amuses bouche – left to right the choices included Wild Mushroom Crème Brulee, Maine Lobster in Alsace Gewurztraminer Butter, and Sweet corn Panna Cotta with bacon.While it is tough to trump lobster in butter, the highlight of the amuses would actually be the brulee with its darker earthy tones nicely melding with the sweetness of the crystallized sugar.The panna cotta, while good, was perhaps a little too heavily buttered for my taste and the corn did not shine through the salty bacon as I’d have hoped.
For bread service I was next presented with a slice of Midwestern unsalted butter from Ohio – smooth and sweet on its own, Everest is rare in that each table has a small salt and pepper shaker and the butter was even more impressive with a touch of salt.Amongst the evening’s breads were Rye, 9-Grain, Baguette, Sourdough, Potato, and Milk.House baked but unfortunately served less than warm I tried each and found the crumb of the baguette and milk bread quite wonderful while the standout flavor wise was certainly the nine grain with obvious notes of sesame and wheat.
Beginning the meal proper, approximately 25 minutes after I sat down, would be my specially requested Pressé of Cold New York State Foie Gras, Rosehips, Heirloom Apples, Marinated Melon with toasted brioche.Thin and perfect the strip of liver clearly highlighted the dish – not quite mousse like that at The French Laundry, but more so than that at Henri.Topped with a compote of apple and cinnamon and complimented with a twirl of honeydew and cubes of watermelon I actually found the most intriguing part of this plate a flower spiked balsamic spread on the plate – savory but with floral notes evident and especially nicely complimenting the apples.
For my second course I was served a dish I’ll certainly look back on as one of the best of the trip – Farm Fresh Shirred Egg, Champagne Cream, Smoked Sturgeon Caviar.Featuring half an ounce of glistening black eggs both topping the egg and filling the molten yolk interior, the layer in between was a piped sponge of bracing contrast, something like whipped cream made of dry champagne.Perhaps the most memorable savory of a meal full of top notch preparations.
Continuing the parade of well executed preparations using superior ingredients dish number three would prepare Vintage Carnaroli Risotto with a Compote of Cinderella Pumpkin and Boneless Quail Supreme.With crispy skinned quail at the center and a drizzle of pan jus surrounding the bird the highlight of this dish was the creamy rice, just toothsome enough to make itself known in a broth that tasted somewhere between chicken soup and sweet potato pie.I’ve realized over the years that I am in the minority of persons not wowed by Risotto, but this was a great interpretation.
The fourth course to arrive at my two-top was Sautéed Casco Bay Sea Scallop, Pomme Mousseline, Jus de Poulet – and by sautéed I’m pretty sure the kitchen meant “soaked in butter, caramelized atop, and sashimi style within.”With the seemingly hockey puck sized scallop dominating the plate’s center and a pool of buttery sieved potato beneath the jus was merely a savory afterthought.
Plate five would present the most aggressive flavor pairing of the evening in the form of Crepinette of Wild Sturgeon, Wrapped and Roasted in Cured Ham and Cabbage, Pinot Noir.With the sturgeon nicely prepared and flakey, the typically mild fish was somewhat overwhelmed by the combination of aromatic cabbage, savory pork, and reduced wine.A decent sized portion for a long tasting menu my favorite aspect of the dish was the buttery “cabbage crust” and the texture lent by the crispy pork.
The final savory of the evening would be Filet of Venison, Wild Huckelberries, Braised Pear, Alsace Knepfla.Never one to order deer by choice I must admit I’m always happy when it arrives as part of a tasting.Mildly gamey the rolled loin was coated in what I believe to be graham cracker and seared on the exterior with a crimson center.Adding levity to the hefty meat would be a puree of membrillo, sliced braised pear, and a reduction of huckleberry.Served as a “bonus,” a small bowl of buttery pasta knepfla pasta with a texture not dissimilar to spaetzle – tasty, but oddly presented in my opinion.
Always one to take notes I am remiss to note that I did not detail the night’s cheese selection – an Assortment of Small Midwestern Farmer’s Cheeses.Presented as a quartet with mild to pungent from left to right I do remember that two were from Indiana, one from Ohio, and another from Michigan and that there was a blue, a raw cow, a sheep, and a goat.Overall each of the selections were pleasant and the accompanying walnut raisin bread and compote of candied fruits and nuts were quite tasty.
Marking my transition from savory to sweet, the palate cleanser of the day would be Composition of Heirloom Apples en Gelee.Pale green on pale green on pale green the course featured silky smooth green apple gelato over tart apple jello.With a crystallized apple chip topping the gelato and small cubes of apple dotting the dish the serving was actually quite large for a palate cleanser and quite good, to boot.
For my desserts I’d mentioned to Megan when I made the reservation that there were two I was quite interested in, something old and something new – both would find their way to my table that evening.Starting first with the Classic Old Rhum Infused Baba, Raisin Pineapple Glace, 18th Century Alsace Recipe all I can say is that it was as classic as the name portrays, aside from the ice cream.Topped tableside with a spicy and boozy shot of rum the baba was flawless and the ethereal buttery pastry simply melted in the mouth.An equally competent counterpart, the rum raisin and pineapple ice cream was served atop a compote of candied pineapple and raisin.Having had far less traditional Baba Au Rhum from Ducasse and Kruether, this classic presentation was an equal delight.
As good as the first was in its tradition, the second succeeded in its novelty.Presented and topped tableside with a “free form” soufflé standing tall and proud at the center, the New Wave Fromage Blanc Soufflé with Persimmon Coulis, Squash Confit, and Alsace Spice Cake Glace was sublime.Light yet harboring the essence of cheesecake with a base of “spice cake crumble” the soufflé itself was a marvel.With chunks of confit squash alongside and room temperature coulis adding fructose sweetness the main portion of the dish alone was worth the hefty price tag ($22 if ordered a la carte.)Equally impressive as the soufflé and served over the spice cake crumble at the bowl’s edge would be one of the five best ice creams to ever grace my palate – nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, allspice – and smooth as silk.
Sipping my coffee – appropriately Intelligentsia given our location in Chicago – I was next presented with a tray of mignardises.Rather full from the day of eating I opted to taste only one of each (the waiter quickly said “as many as you’d like” when I asked if he could just leave the tray.)Featuring a Marshmallow Chocolate Cone, Anise cookie, Pistachio Financier, Rum Square, and Lemon Pate a fruit I loved the Marshmallow cone’s presentation, texture, and flavor while the cookie and financier were rather dry.
Settling the tab – $200 for the meal, $10 for the cider, plus tax and tip – I bid my team farewell and made my way to the exit where Megan greeted me.Stemming from a mere comment to my server (when I noted the Foie Gras) about my menu being dated “October 6th” as opposed to November Megan apologized and stated she would take my name and have a menu sent out immediately.Insisting it was not a big deal she persisted and I left my name and address – four days later I received a new copy of the menu, with the Foie Gras and correct date – plus a signed card from the team and some promotional information.
Similar to my TRU and L2o experiences there is no doubt in my mind that LettuceEntertainYou is similar to the Danny Meyer Empire in NYC – a “yes” organization where the diner’s enjoyment is of the utmost importance.While it certainly is not a cheap meal, the combination of atmosphere, food, and service at Everest is amongst the best in Chicago – if I were with Michelin they’d have gotten two stars, just like Trotter’s.
Making our way through Millennium Park I anticipated the long lines, hour plus waits, and loud environment without a system reservations – given its prime location, quartet of well respected chefs, and recent appointment by Bon Appétit as one of the 10 best new restaurants in America I understood the hype.For a concept that seemed so simple (and something done in other cities prior) to get such rave reviews I figured The Pig had to be something special but in all reality the main selling point for myself and my traveling party was that the full menu was available for lunch and that it was easily walkable from our Saturday visit to the Art Institute of Chicago.Arriving at the small space on Michigan Avenue the restaurant certainly lived up to the rumors – a line snaked out the door and the volume was audible from the street.
Making our way through the nicely heated outdoor seating area to the door we were greeted by a pleasant hostess who told us the wait would likely be 45 minutes “or so” for a group of three.Without further plans we put our name on the list and looked for a place to stand – the restaurant was jammed packed and we essentially spent the next 20 minutes standing/sitting near the glass window watching plate after delectable looking plate emerge from the kitchen.Twenty minutes at 1:00pm on a Saturday – yes – when a group of 8 stood up from the long center table and multiple persons ahead of us on the wait list had apparently left or didn’t hear their name called over the din we were seated without further ado, handed a menu, and water was poured immediately.
Browsing the multitude of menu options my companions noted that they weren’t terribly hungry and would likely be ordering only one item each – thankfully when asked if they’d sample some items if I was paying they assented.Although the place was packed and loud with seating tight and the gathering throng of waiting patrons invading our one foot radius frequently I will note that service was friendly, prompt, courteous, and never rushed – yes they were turning tables at a good pace, but never did I feel like plates were being rushed and when we finished we were even asked if we wanted dessert or more small plates.Orders placed we began our wait and watched plate after plate of pork parts pass by whetting our appetite.
With plates arriving randomly as they were completed in the kitchen (like most small plates experiences) timing was actually quite excellent and we were able to finish most plates before the next round arrived.Kicking things off would be the Open face pork belly BLT with a fried egg.Featuring Benton’s Bacon pork belly sliced and fried crisp over rye bread and topped with artisan frisee, fresh tomato, and a golden fried egg this was designer comfort food – savoriness sweetened by the tomato alone and balanced with the hefty and crusty bread – a tad difficult to cut and share, but an excellent start largely consumed by Nate who enjoyed it thoroughly.
Arriving shortly after the BLT would be more delicious pig parts – perhaps the most “famous” dish on the menu – Pig’s Ear with Crispy Kale, Pickled Cherry Peppers & Fried Egg.Having only had pig’s ear twice in the past this was actually the strongest presentation to date with the ear actually less crisp than the intense kale – well done with melting collagen between layers of protein.With acidic as opposed to hot pepper intermingled and served in an adorable pig bowl the dish was again egg topped and the creamy yolk proved a nice foil for the otherwise contrasting flavors and textures.
With the next two dishes arriving as a pair the first would be a cheese course.Simply paired with toasted bread and quince compote our selections would be Truffle Tremor, Capriole O’Banon, and Manchego – all cheeses I have had in the past and all served in large wedges at a relative bargain price of $17 for the three.As much as I’m a relative novice to cheese tasting in general, Cypress Grove’s three chevres continue to wow me each and every time.
For my sister’s choice she opted for the Sepia with Snap Peas and Toasted Almonds and Rosemary.Served largely unadorned in ceramic bowl the squid itself was tender and juicy with just a touch of olive oil and lemon.With crunch lent by the almonds and sweetness from the surprisingly fresh mid-Autumn Peas this was a successful dish despite its lack of swine.
For our final two dishes more of the restaurant’s namesake animal were on the order – the first a “smear” of Mortadella, Balsamico & Pistachio on toasted house made bread.With the fatty salume ground to a chunky paste and ample with notes of pepper, nutmeg, and coriander the high notes of this dish were without a doubt the crunchy fresh pistachios.Accented with a tangy and sweet balsamic vinegar the dish was not the most attractive, but it was certainly my favorite of the meal.
Our final plate of the meal is perhaps the Purple Pig’s most notable; The Milk Braised Pork Shoulder with Mashed Potatoes.With the recipe featured on the website I rather figured this dish would be somewhat akin to my Grandfather’s rustic pork-steak and potatoes with a texture similar to Luke’s Cochon au Lait – unfortunately while it was quite good it didn’t live up to either.Fatty and succulent to be sure I really cannot fault the pork itself, but rather the lack of nuance or seasoning outside of a heavy handed salt shaker.Attempting to dissect the protein away from the gravy I personally think this dish would actually be better off without the gravy – or perhaps with a firm starch or vegetable.
Happily sated but certainly not stuffed we agreed to take a look when the dessert menu was offered but unfortunately the budino I’d been eyeing on the online menu was nowhere to be found and while the Panino con Nutella sounded tasty we also had cupcakes waiting from the morning and decided to pass.Check delivered we settled the tab and made our way through the crowd to the street – total meal time from entering to exit just shy of 100 minutes.Impressed but not wowed I think The Purple Pig is a great concept with good execution – the sort of place it might be nice to pop in for a drink and snacks, but not necessarily a “destination” or “must” in a city with such great diversity of options – though it is open for lunch when many of its competitors are not.
Returning to our parking space in MillenniumlaceName> ParklaceType> after some Michigan Avenue shopping we were greeted by our cupcakes from Sweet Mandy B’s.Touted as an old fashioned bakery and featuring an assortment of nostalgic cookies, cakes, pies, whoopie pies, bars, and cupcakes the small shop is perhaps the oldest cupcakery in Chicago and a place I’d missed out on thrice during previous visits.Having gone early in the morning when Floriole was still behind on their morning baking the shop was bustling with a minimum of five bakers and three persons working the front of the house – service was excellent and prices surprisingly reasonable.
With our bounty of cupcakes less than 6 hours old and having sat in the chilly car I feel confident saying that our selections were still “fresh” and with each of us selecting one cake plus a mutually agreed upon fourth I will note I was disappointed there was no Red Velvet, but happy that there were so many unique options.With frosting aplenty and cake moist without being “doughy” each option was quite good – first a lemon selection that tasted somewhat artificial but plenty tangy – more lemonade than ice box, but good none the less.The second option, a seasonal pumpkin with cream cheeseicing fared better than the lemon to my palate, but with significantly hefty nutmeg, clove, and cinnamon the pumpkin took a back seat to the spice.Choice three would be French Toast – a lovely flavor with ample notes of cinnamon, maple, and butter – it truly did taste like French Toast.The final choice, and best by far, was Caramel Apple.With chunks of baked apple providing contrast to the soft batter and a topping of butter cream and caramel the flavor was almost that of an apple dumpling.
Heading back to MillenniumlaceName> ParklaceType> where Dr. Oz’s Health Expo was ongoing we had the opportunity to watch Art Smith – a known diabetic – and guest star Elmo prepare healthy foods while discussing the day’s gluttony and looking forward to the evening’s extended tasting by Chef Joho at Everest.Places like Sweet Mandy B’s make me glad that I take care of patients with diabetes and do not have it – but I’d rather tax my pancreas at Sugar Bliss, Southport, or Molly’s.
For breakfast on the third day of our trip to Chicago I planned in advance – while I’m willing to wait in long lines for great food I’d much rather make a reservation and avoid it.With most Chicago brunch hot-spots opening around 9:00am I woke up early as ever a hit the gym before waking the crew and hitting the road – our first stop would be Floriole bakery at 8:00am – unfortunately they’d had some issues with staff arriving late and very few items were ready – unabashed we walked next door to Sweet Mandy B’s where we picked up some cupcakes for later.
Loaded back into the car by 8:30 we proceeded through the cold streets and arrived in Andersonville by 8:45 – familiar with the area from our visit to GreatlaceName> LakelaceType> the night before we actually parked in the same exact spot and made our way to Big Jones by 8:55.Just slightly north of freezing we stood waiting for the doors to open while we watched three fellows (one with his pants essentially halfway down his posterior) attempt to hang a large curtain near the hostess stand…when 9:00 rolled around the doors did not open…nor did they open at 9:05, 9:10, or 9:15 as the team fussed with the curtain and moving plates around on tables…I know they saw us – they saw our group and another two couples standing in the cold yet the “closed” sign remained in place.At 9:20 they finally opened the door without any explanation for the delay – even when I strode up the host stand and made a point stating “We had reservations for three at 9am” – and without a hello or a smile we were led to a seat near the front of the restaurant where their newly hung curtain would fail to prevent an extremely cold draft every time someone opened the door.
Without going on at length about the abysmal service at Big Jones and thus rendering this review negative throughout I will note here that aside from the seating gaffs there was also the issue of empty coffee and hot water for tea, orders presented to the wrong persons, significant delays and lack of personality despite the restaurant being half empty, and a dessert order that required advanced notice was forgotten thus prolonging our frequently frigid stay by 30 minutes.Those issues out of the way, I will now note that the setting was charming, the seating comfortable, and the concept/cooking quite appealing.As described by chef/owner Paul Fehribach“I do what I do because I want to see nutrition, sustainability, and humane treatment of farm animals become the standard by which we judge food – not cheap price, industrial consistency, or marketing dollars spent. We can all eat better by treating the land and our animal friends better.”
Warming up with the first of three cups of Intelligentsia orders were placed and the first item to arrive was the restaurant’s signature complimentary beignets.Served in a group of four and topped liberally (or sparsely if your point of comparison is Café du Monde) with powdered sugar the puffs of dough were toothsome on the exterior with a supple interior that melted in the mouth – as quickly as they arrived they were gone.
For our appetizer selections we decided to share two of the myriad Low Country options – the first being Cracked Pepper and Goat Cheese Biscuits with Honey butter and house blueberry preserves.Textural and buttery the biscuits were excellent with a distinct tanginess lent by the cheese.Visually obvious I personally did not feel the pepper added much flavor to the dish but with that said the saccharine sweet honey butter and smooth preserves were excellent additions and served to highlight the cheese’s nuances.
The second appetizer, Cajun Pancakes with blueberry preserves and honey butter fared just as well as the biscuits and perhaps better.Thin crepes with the butter folded inside the crispy yet light cakes were paired with powdered sugar and the same delectable preserves presented with the biscuits.Thinking aloud I mentioned to my sister that any dish raising memories of my Maternal Grandmother’s Hungarian palachinka is never a bad thing – interestingly another dish later in the day would raise memory of my Maternal Grandfather, as well.
After a lengthy delay of around twenty-five minutes the restaurant had filled to approximately 1/2 capacity and our main courses began to arrive.With Nate again not preferring sugary breakfasts he opted for a beautiful looking rendition of classic Eggs Benedict with Neiman Ranch applewood pit ham, and poached eggs served over popovers and topped with hollandaise alongside classic potatoes O’Brien.Judging by his lack of chatter during the meal and subsequent empty plate I will assume he enjoyed them.
Eschewing her love of sweet breakfasts for her love of both cornbread and pancakes Erika’s selection would prove to be the best of the group – Low country style corn cakes with cheddar cheese, vegetarian red beans, poached eggs, and green tomato chili sauce.Far less spicy than I’d have imagined (a good thing for me but likely not for those who fancy “low country” heat) the cakes themselves proved to be toothsome without being grainy and sweet without being sugary.Topped with perfectly poached eggs whose yolks helped to balance the acidity of the tomatoes and rimmed by red beans the dish was certainly heavy but not so much that it was overwhelming.
For my option, featuring house made Sally Lunn Bread, I selected the Sally Lunn French Toast with Brandied Harrow’s Delight pears, Neiman Ranch applewood ham, and Michigan Maple syrup.Sweet, Savory, and slightly boozy all at once this dish could have been a standout save for one thing – as well caramelized and eggy as the bread was, it was largely uncooked on the interior and more a grilled ham sandwich than French Toast.Tasty for sure and featuring some of the best breakfast ham I’ve had in some time I simply prefer my French Toast with a more custard center.
At this point our server returned to ask “will there be anything else” and when I mentioned the dessert order he admitted he had forgotten and apologized.Asking if we would still be interested I assented and after another 30 minutes of chatting and drinking coffee the desserts would arrive – the first a house made Bourbon Bread Pudding with Autumn Apples, Salted caramel, and vanilla bean ice cream.Considering myself something of a Bread Pudding Aficionado I have to say the flavor of the dish was quite good but the texture of the pudding was a tad stiff and the apples were underwhelming both it taste and texture.With the vanilla bean ice-cream and the crumbled salted caramel propping up the dish I will simply say I was underwhelmed that this came from a restaurant proclaiming itself to represent Southern Costal Cuisine.
Our final selection, and the reason for the delay, was the fresh baked Red Velvet Cake with cocoa, beet, and citrus plus cream cheese semifreddo.What the dish lacked in presentation – essentially a puck of red velvet tilted up by the semifreddo and crumbles of salted caramel along side – it more than made up for in taste, texture, and temperature.With the still steaming cake slowly melting the impossibly creamy and smooth semifreddo and caramel adding texture each bite was a different experience – cocoa, citrus, earthy, and entirely worth the wait – a dish that alone justifies a visit to Big Jones, even if just for dessert (perhaps after a Pizza at Great Lake?)
Settling the bill and making our way to the car the day remained cold while my feelings about Big Jones could be summed up as tepid.With ethics and a business model so strong I felt rather disappointed that customer service was so poor and while some items were truly exemplary others were rather ho-hum and poorly executed.Having now had a number of great breakfasts and brunches in Chicago – in my humble opinion the best brunch city in the US – I can’t say I’d rush back to Big Jones for anything aside from that Red Velvet cake…provided I did not have to stand and then sit in the cold for 2 hours to get it.
If you’re reading this site you are likely aware of Schwa, Chef Michael Carlson, the obscure reservations system, and even the GQ Article that vaulted the restaurant above other temples of molecular gastronomy as “The Most Revolutionary Restaurant in America.”Hailed by some as a genius, some as an artist, and some as a mad scientist or simply a madman there is no doubt in Carlson’s pedigree – classic Italian training both in Italy and alongside Bartolotta at Spiaggia paired with training in molecular cuisine with Achatz (while at Trio) and Blumenthal at the Fat Duck.What may be in doubt, however, is the seemingly nonchalant, renegade, or downright annoying process of getting to eat Michael’s cuisine.
Calling on the last day of September in hopes of getting a seat for the weekend of my visit in November I was shocked when Carlson actually answered the phone at 12:30pm Ohio time.Sounding a bit perplexed by my question of “Did reservations for November open up today?” he responded “Um, yeah” and proceeded to take my number (no name) and date/time of reservation.After a quick read of the BYOB policy he said “peace, see ya on the 4th” and the line went silent.Wanting to make sure my reservation was legit I tried to call back a couple times in October but always reached their full voicemail box….then on November 2nd I got a call from Mathew to confirm – 6pm – again, no name was requested.
Flash forward to November 4th – 4:00pm the phone rings as I’m browsing in Crate&Barrel – it is Matt again.“Bro, man, we’ve got a problem.”A problem with the building…we’re cancelling service tonight…we also just had two people quit…we’re really sorry…we’ll make it up to you…any date you like…etc.Explaining that I was in from out of town he stated he would “call the chef and get back to me in ten minutes.”That call never came.Frustrated I called back and met that same familiar voice recording over and over…eventually after approximately 20 calls (and 35 minutes) Matt again answered – I explained I was the guy from Ohio and got a “Oh, s&%$ man, I forgot.”To this point I’m still uncertain as to whether he forgot to call or forgot I even existed – the whole conversation was very disjointed and full of “um,” “bro,” and “dude” but regardless he told me that they were going to open up “early” the next day to get us in – when I asked for a time he told me 7:00pm and again read the scripted BYOB policy.A quick scramble to swap my Bonsoiree reservation and things seemed, at least for the time being, set.
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Having just whetted my appetite with my sister and her friend at Great Lake we made the quick trip to North Ashland and found the restaurant looking just as I’d seen in pictures – certainly not the portrait of haute cuisine.Receiving a text message from my friend Dave that he’d be there around 7:05 I bid my companions farewell and entered the restaurant – the darkest dining room I’ve ever seen, completely empty, and Redman and Methodman blaring – I laughed and thought back to my experience at Ko…the music, the setting/neighborhood, the reservation system…everything felt a bit familiar.Standing in the middle of the room for a few moments I watched the motion of the kitchen – Carlson hand cutting pasta through the illuminated window suddenly looked up and motioned to one of his colleagues, Matt, who came out to the dining room and said “hey bro, can I help you?”Introducing myself I was met with a “cool, cool – the dude from Ohio, right – I thought we said 7:30?”Knowing for fact he’d said 7:00 but largely unconcerned he led me to the two-top closest to the kitchen where I would sit for approximately 10 minutes before Dave arrived – water was filled and I was left to listen to Wu-Tang, Ozzy, Mastadon, KRS One, Tupac, and a progression of loud music while watching the small team of three (Matt, Matt, and Michael) work the kitchen.
Arriving with wine, Dave was greeted quickly and the bottle was taken back to the kitchen.Not recalling what wine Dave brought I’ll note that glasses were kept full throughout the evening and Matthew even opened up some of the wine in the kitchen to pair a Pinot Noir with the lighter courses. Still the only full table in the restaurant both Matt and Michael visited the table to welcome us and service began quickly.Without going into too much detail I will note that throughout the evening service was excellent despite the fact that the chefs were also the servers and although there was a lot of slang and mumbling the plates were delivered with extensive description of ingredients, technique, and inspiration – the team also went out of their way to learn about diners (asking what dishes/ingredients worked or didn’t, inquiring about our jobs and interest, etc.)
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Without further ado – while I’m sure some of my descriptions are lacking an ingredient or five (the menu I was given at the end of the night listed 3-4 ingredients per plate) the meal started off with the night’s amuse – Clarified Bloody Mary with spicy tomato, pepper, and pork.Similar to Alinea’s Thai Distillation this simple shot was exactly what you’d expect from the title – hot and savory, smooth and refreshing.Interestingly when Matthew saw me snap a picture he offered the advice “don’t worry if you wanna use flash dude, it’s pretty dark in here.”
With the soundtrack blasting Busta Rhymes our first course arrived – “Octopus – Pineapple, Macadamia Nut, Char.”Featuring supple slow boiled octopus that lacked any semblance of chewy/rubberiness cascaded across the plate atop smears of burnt pineapple and macadamia nut puree the flavor of the cephalopod was nicely complimented by the sweet and nutty admixtures.Adding complexity and texture would be thinly sliced pan seared arctic char, shaved nori, baked yucca chips, and micro greens while dots of aged Sherry vinegar lent a savory finish.
When course two arrived we were still enjoying our three:two server/chef:diner ratio and Carlson delivered the plate himself.Titled “Elote – Corn, Lime, Cojita” the plate featured Warm corn soup made with “mayonnaise and cilantro pudding” and a side salad consisting of charred corn, lime puree, chili spiced popcorn, and cojita cheese.Interestingly using the lime to adhere the cup to the plate we were instructed to eat this “however you like” and after a taste of the soup – a fantastic flavor/texture best described as cornbread veloute – I proceded to add bits of corn, cheese, and lime to the admixture which produced more nuanced flavors.All in all my least favorite course of the meal, but a successful take on the popular Hispanic street food which the course was named after.
It was with course three that the soundtrack switched from Rap to Metal, loud and heavy either way, and more patrons began arriving…as a matter of fact, the restaurant went from empty to full almost immediately at 7:45pm and we chuckled as a few patrons were turned away despite bringing boozy gifts for the kitchen.With service slowing only slightly the next plate was one of Carlson’s more famous options – “Tagliatelle – veal heart, huckleberries, honey.”Featuring a spiral of hand cut pasta snaking up the edge of the bowl and topped with chopped veal heart, whole huckleberries, Tellagio cheese, honeyed veal demiglaze, shaved black truffles, and arugula this course once again showed off Carlson’s fondness for sweetened proteins.Tender and al dente the pasta itself was beautiful but the star of the show was undoubtedly the manner in which the sweet gravy enhanced the savory offal.This course and its follow-up were the only courses where I truly wished there was bread service at Schwa as I would have loved to sop up every drop of the sauce.
Our next course would be offered as a “bonus” and true to rumor when a later table requested the dish they were told it could not be accommodated as the kitchen had “run out.”As much a signature as anything at Schwa, Carlson’s famous Quail Egg Yolk Ravioli with Buffalo ricotta, brown butter, white truffle, and Chive was every bit as good as the rumors.Likely influenced by his time at Trio with Achatz (who was then perfecting Black Truffle Explosion) the Ravioli was served solo and we were instructed to let it cool a moment and then eat it in a single bite.Bursting in the mouth and potentially the only dish of the evening lacking substantial sweetness I’m going to go out on a limb and say I enjoyed this even more than Achatz’s fabled dish – the texture of the molten egg yolk was simply one of the best mouth-feels I can imagine and the brown butter/white truffle combination was divine on the palate.
Returning to the menu, course four was an interesting dish of opposing flavors that worked much better than one would expect.Titled “Roe – Watermelon, Violet” the course was served in a rounded bowl and featured Steelhead Roe floating in a semi-solid watermelon gelee and topped with viola flowers.On the edge of the bowl rested a curl of watermelon rind and on the plate balancing the rounded bowl was a bit of tempura steelhead roe.Taking my first bite of the dish I was instantly struck by the hefty flavors of watermelon – a flavor so strong it almost tasted artificial like Bubbalicious – but on mastication a pleasant salinity broke through as the caviar burst on the tongue and the overall effect was something like tapioca pudding in texture and with the aroma of violet the course seemed to serve as a palate cleanser to both the tongue and the nostrils.Not to be forgotten, the rind was cured and somewhat vinegar-sweet while the tempura roe was intensely briny and crisp.
For our fish course, “Halibut – Anchovy, Black Garlic, Zucchini” would arrive as the largest portion size of the meal.With easily 3 ounces of broiled and seared Halibut centering the plate the day boat fish was perfectly flaky and tender.Seated amidst crispy garlic chips, grilled zucchini, sprigs of lavender, and drizzles of sesame oil the fish was additionally paired with three distinct smears – sweet black garlic, tangy Greek yogurt, and subtly briny white anchovy puree.Tasting the fish with each component provided a different experience and although diverse in scope each item served to highlight the protein without distracting from the others.
Course six would be another familiar face on the Schwa menu – “Biscuits and Gravy – Sweetbreads, Red Eye Gravy, Mustard.”Described as a tribute to Michael’s southern grandmother the dish featured three plump and crispy sweetbreads with characteristic creamy centers juxtaposed with three tiny buttermilk biscuits from his grandmother’s recipe.A lovely start, the plate was next supplemented with bitter braised mustard greens, fibrous Chinese black beans, ground pink peppercorns, micro-arugula, miniature pearl onions, and coffee spiked redeye gravy.With each flavor playing a part in the entirely southern feeling dish I have to admit I was a bit taken aback by the spiciness of the gravy – it was appropriate for the dish, but required nearly a whole glass of water on my admittedly un-southern tongue.
Our main course, arriving during a particularly loud and profanity laden track by Nas, would be one of Carlson’s more recent creations – a dish detailed as “S’mores – beef mole, graham, marshmallow, campfire.”Having to walk through the kitchen to get to the restroom I’d seen this course being prepped earlier in the meal – or at seen Carlson taking the Wagyu from the sous vide bag and shredding it.Featuring Wagyu short ribs in a cocoa nib mole that literally melted on the tongue, the dish was topped with crumbled graham crackers, a creamy graham cracker puree, and black cardamom marshmallow all placed in a cone.With the cone resting in a smoking vessel we were instructed to lift the cone and eat with a spoon while the campfire smoke poured forth.Again pairing intense sweetness with a traditionally savory dish I can say that of all the creations I experienced at Schwa this is probably the most memorable – it was a truly beautiful and on par with the Tagliatelle for best of the night.As an added bonus the dish included an ounce of Gran Marnier consommé as a “sidecar” – intensely boozy with hints of orange and cinnamon, another intriguing palate cleanser.
The night’s cheese course would prove to be small, intense, and unlike any other cheese course in my experience…no surprise, all things considering.Titled “Pretzels and Beer” the course featured a small pretzel gougere stuffed with Chimay Cheese and topped with Chimay Beer Foam sitting on a puddle of Mustard Paint.A single bite, a flash on the palate – first mustard, then beer, then a creamy lingering finish.While I’m a fan of neither mustard nor beer neither of them were overly potent when compared to the cheese and I still wonder how Carlson managed to form a pretzel that dissolved on the tongue.
For our dessert course we received the dish I’d expected, “Celery Root – Banana, Chocolate, Caramel.”Featuring a pool of sweetened celery soup with slowly melting white chocolate mousse at its base and a disk of celery root cake at the center the cake itself was next topped with a shard of white chocolate while a rum roasted bruleed banana doused with salted caramel sat alongside.Topping the dish with Banana leather and clover I have to say that the cake itself was almost too celery for me – someone who eats celery frequently and loves the flavor – and my friend did not enjoy it at all.The key to this dish, however, seemed to lie in combining everything at once and taking a bite – the bitterness of the celery, the sweetness of the banana, the smoothness of the chocolate, and the salty caramel forming a unique flavor that tasted something like heavily sweetened matcha.
With the place jam packed and the decibel level rising as people enjoyed their beverages of choice (yes, even the guy who brought the case of PBR) Michael and Matt both visited our table once again to thank me for adjusting my schedule to accommodate the issues of the night before – “we really wanted to cook for you guys, but sometimes s#@% just happens – it’s awesome that you could make it.”Thanking them we were told we could hang out as long as we liked as they had no more reservations for the evening – they even offered to pour us some beer which we politely declined.Arriving with the check and a copy of the menu Matt said “seriously guys, we don’t f#$& up – whenever you’re ready” and opening the check we found that we’d been given half off the tab.Leaving a $75 tip for the awesome evening we thanked the crew once again and made our way to the street.
A bizarre restaurant and experience in all ways it is really hard to sum up what Schwa “is” in the grand scheme of restaurants when looking back on it.The best comparison I can offer up is the one I assumed going in – Momofuku Ko.Obscure reservation system, off beat location, “come as you are” dress code, blaring music, and obscure ingredient pairings that somehow work.With that said, the bar stools, snooty attitude, excessive price tag, and NO pictures policy at Ko speaks to a restaurant that doesn’t care what you think – they believe it is a privilege to experience their vision.On the contrary, quoting Michael Carlson himself, “We cook food we want to eat in an environment we want to eat it in” and “Our game plan is the same game plan as every night. We’re making 30 people happy.”On November 5th 2010 Schwa made me very happy and it was absolutely worth the effort.
Dinner on Friday was to’ve been Bonsoiree but that all changed when Schwa called me and changed things up on Thursday.Frustrating as it was at first, what resulted was not only a swapping of dates between Schwa and Bonsoiree, but a later seating at Schwa that opened up an opportunity I could not pass up – the opportunity for an early pre-dinner featuring what many (including Alan Richman who took the place global on his GQ list) consider to be the best Pizza in America – Great Lake.Traveling with my sister and her friend we called ahead to find out Great Lake would open at 5:00pm and we arrived in Andersonville around 4:30, grabbed a cup of coffee at Kopi, and proceeded to wait in the line already sporting two other couples.
Standing in front of the large window with curtain drawn we could see the vague outlines of Nick Lessins and crew working inside and I explained to my colleagues the controversial Pizza-Nazi-esque reputation that has been spread across the net.Undeterred by the stories and rather intrigued by the ethics of a husband/wife team that have stayed true to their roots – cooking each pie individually, sourcing everything they can locally or from well trusted providers, and honing their craft in the image of the restaurant that inspired them (Pizzeria Bianco) – instead of selling out and compromising an operation they clearly love, I rather figured the trip would be worth the effort.As we stood and a few snowflakes fell a car pulled up and out hopped Lydia Esparza with a large bag of groceries – making her way past the now 14 person line she opened the door and ushered us in.
Making our way in the door we simply followed the line up to the counter where Lessins could be seen preparing crusts and a young man was quickly chopping the ingredients Lydia had brought.Browsing the menu on the wall there were three pizzas, three addable ingredients, and two salads available for the evening – we quickly came to a consensus and placed our order.Handed a cork with two aces it was suggested we sit at an end at the communal table.
Seated for a few moments a young man brought us water and three cups – we were left to pour our own, as were all persons providing their own wine.As we sat and chatted we watched Nick slowly prepare each pizza step by step – throwing the dough, adding olive oil, placing each ingredient by hand, and manning the oven all on his own.We also chuckled as Lydia shot down a special request (from a particularly annoying mother with two young girls who unfortunately sat right next to us) to order Pizza #2 without black pepper.
With the gas oven capable of making only two pizzas at a time we sat for approximately 20 minutes before the first two came out of the oven and watched with baited breath as our neighbors indulged.With a short line slowly forming outside we additionally started to realize the non-stop calls coming in for carryout orders – by the time we left the pickup time was nearly 2 hours.Thankfully our wait was much less considerable and the pizza was delivered to our table a mere 35 minutes after sitting down.
Delivered piping hot with cheese still bubbling our #1 with Tomato, Homemade Fresh Mozzarella, Mona Aged Cheese, Basil, Oregano, Rosemary, and 1/2 with thick cut Gunthorp Farms Bacon was every bit as good as the rumors.Ten slices in total and featuring what I can only describe as the “perfect” crust I actually burned the roof of my mouth in taking my first bite – the supple charred crust proving astoundingly chewy beneath the creamy house mozzarella and cow/sheep blend.With the spice blend nicely complimenting the exquisitely sweet and mildly acidic tomatoes and the smoky bacon adding its characteristic savoriness the totality of the pizza was exactly what you expect when you think of “pizza” and given the quality of ingredients and preparation it was that “pizza” in its ideal form.
Settling the admittedly hefty $30 (w/tax+tip) tab after three slices each we thanked Lydia and Nick (I think Nick may have even looked up from the pizza station and smiled) and made our way to the street.Having eaten a number of other top notch pizzas from ovens of wood, coal, and gas I can say without a doubt that while I often prefer esoteric ingredients there is no doubt in my mind that the crust and ingredients at Great Lake are amongst the best I’ve ever tasted.Is it the best in the USA – I don’t know, I really liked Osteria, Tacconelli’s, and Supinos as well. While some people may not like the “attitude,” I’m okay with a man (or woman) truly dedicated to his/her craft and if they want to be perfect six hours a day and four days a week I’m okay with that – perfection is worth waiting for.
Despite a large breakfast, after five hours of wandering SOFA, sitting in lectures, and chatting with persons far more creative than myself I was getting hungry – thankfully my lunch reservations had been made far in advance…nearly 2 miles away at Coco Pazzo.Walking in the 36 degree “Windy” city weather from the Navy Pier to the merchandise mart I made good pace and covered the distance in just over 20 minutes.Arriving minutes early for my 1:00pm reservation I was greeted by Jack Weiss himself at the reservationists podium and welcomed warmly – I’m not sure if Mr. Weiss remembered, but I’d written in advance to ask if one of the dinner menu items could be offered at lunch and he’d noted it in my reservation.
Seated promptly by a courteous and observant server (he noted my SOFA bag and inquired about the show) I was glad I’d worn a leather blazer – even at lunch Coco Pazzo is packed and has a lot of style with well-heeled clientele talking about the stock market over cocktails and plates of charcuterie, vegetables, and pasta.Offered tap vs. bottled water I selected tap and Joel named off approximately 8 daily specials all of which sounded quite good before presenting me with the menu displaying another twenty or so choices.With a focus on local/seasonal produce, pastas and breads handmade in house daily and “every stock, sauce, pastry, and dessert prepared by our passionate and creative staff” it is hard to find any fault in Coco Pazzo’s business model.
With multiple awards including a Mobile Travel Guide 4-Star rating lining the back walls, a wood burning stove featured prominently in the kitchen, and heavy curtains, white table cloths, exposed brick walls, and Vetri-esque centerpieces adorning the dining room the feel of Cocco Pazzo was rustic yet refined.With water poured and never reaching half-empty my request from the dinner menu was confirmed and I selected two “appetizer-portion” menu items to compliment that choice.I will note here that I rather wish I’d have been told that half-portions were not half price (closer to 3/4 price, actually) but I must admit I love the ability to order smaller portions to taste more options.
With my orders en route for the kitchen I was next met by the bread server – a delightful young woman who, despite poor grasp of English, managed to keep my bread plate full throughout the meal.Served with an intensely grassy olive oil the daily selections included cheesy bread sticks, rustic white sourdough, and rosemary sea salt laden foccaccia.I could lie and say I took it easy on the bread, but let’s just say I have trouble turning down fantastic bread and the Foccaccia was just that.
Beginning my meal proper was the appetizer I’d requested from the dinner menu – I’d heard on good word that it was stunning.Titled Terrina di Fegato with Duck Liver Terrine, Fig Mostarda, Heirloom Apple, endive, and grilled foccaccia I was first surprised by the portion size – for a mere $10 this was a lot of liver.Airy and whipped – not dissimilar to The French Laundry in texture – the liver was one of the more potent flavored terrine’s I’ve had – not “gamey” but not as refined as most Foie Gras preps.What made the dish truly shine was actually the manner in which it was paired – the heavy handedness of the terrine nicely balanced with bitter endive, mild apples, a drizzle of olive oil, and sugary sweet figs.Both on its own and spread on the grilled bread I liked the dish but was not “wowed” in the same manner as by the version at Henri the day before (or Everest the day after.)
Waiting perhaps 10 minutes between courses and wishing I’d have brought my sister and her friend (alas, as art students they wanted to attend all the day’s lectures) to try more dishes and pizzas I have to say the pastas I did experience were exemplary.Beginning first with the Ravioli di Zucca with butternut squash filled pasta, brown butter, sage, and amaretti I couldn’t help but make comparison to Batali’s famous Pumpkin Lune’s at Babbo.With parmesan grated tableside the four small packets were light and textural, but unfortunately somewhat more al dente than I prefer for filled pastas.Pasta “done-ness” preferences aside, the textural contrast lent by the grated cookie and intense sweetness smoothed by the nutty brown butter the flavor of the dish was spot on.
Pasta number two fared much better than the Ravioli in terms of texture and was perhaps one of the best pasta’s I’ve had this year (which is saying something considering the Vetri/Amis/Osteria troika in August.)Titled Tagliatelle Castagne with Chestnut noodles, mushrooms, leeks, pumpkin, and speck the flat ribbons of pasta were flawlessly al dente and tasted like smoky chestnuts through and through.Paired with melting leaks and mushrooms which added further earthiness, baked pumpkin for sweetness, and shreds of house cured speck the entirely of the plate was smoky, sweet, and savory – from what the waiter said it is one of their most popular seasonal recipes and returns for a few months each year.
For dessert I was hoping to see a budino, bread pudding, or tiramisu – alas none were to be found.Featuring seasonal apple tarts and chocolate based desserts I finally settled on Tavoletta with Gianduja mousse, flourless chocolate cake, chocolate hazelnut crunch, and raspberry coulis.Served as a four-layer dessert approximately the size of a pager and topped with two plump raspberries the flavors melded well, but the raspberry gelee atop was nonadherent and fell off with each attempt to cut with a fork.A good dessert, but not a great dessert.
When the meal was over I was again satiated and quite happy with the manner in which I was taken care of.While minor issues with the food were noted they certainly weren’t glaring errors and the service was exemplary.Overall I’d say Coco Pazzo compares favorably to Café Spiaggia in terms of cuisine and service, but I personally found the experience, setting, and flavors at Café Spiaggia superior – either way, in many US cities Coco Pazzo would be the best Italian in town.
After a wonderful first day in Chicago that unfortunately ended up with us missing out on the Frightened Rabbit show at the House of Blues because it was sold out I woke up early for the gym and let the youngsters sleep in till 7:00am – our goal was early breakfast and making it to The Navy Pier for SOFA by 9:00am.A long run completed and all cleaned up piled into the car and made our way south largely unencumbered by Chicago traffic and arrived at Southport Grocery and Café by 8am.Half restaurant, half boutique grocery store, and also the home of what many consider the best Cupcake in Chicago – the whole concept sounded like the best parts of Fox and Obel with a smaller and better culled collection.Arriving at the small shop and finding ample free parking we made our way in to find only one table occupied and we were sat immediately by our friendly and pleasant waitress.
With menus presented my seating did not last long – seeing the bakery case and shelves upon shelves of amazing looking goods I was up browsing within minutes.Identifying at least 10 things that sounded excellent in the bakery case and on the shelves I made my way back to the seat and found another ten items on the menu that also sounded good.Offering to buy each of my companions a bakery selection on the provision that I get to try a bite they gladly accepted and made their way to the case to browse.
With the three of us finally seated, waters filled, and tea ordered for my sister with Intelligentsia El Diablo for myself our waitress returned to take orders – a total of seven items for three people she warned us that it would be a lot of food but I assured her we’d be alright.Chatting and again browsing the store while we waited I was appropriately impressed – Foie Gras in the refrigerated section, Columbus’ own Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams in the freezer case, and even Scott Conant’s famous Tomato Sauce on the shelf.
Returning to our seats our bakery appetizer courses arrived quickly – and all were much bigger than they looked in the case.Beginning with Nate’s selection, a Vegan Blueberry Cornbread Muffin, we all took a bite and everyone agreed – sweetened only by the copious number of berries and perhaps a touch of sugar the muffin was dense without being heavy, toothsome without being chewy, and moist yet crumbly – it was very very good.
Moving next to my sister’s choice – the grilled sour cream coffee cake topped with Zingerman’s cream cheese.An enormous portion – easily enough for a party of 2-3 to share the coffee cake itself was lovely and baked to perfection.Incredibly moist, tangy, and loaded with cinnamon, walnuts, and sugar the cake was buttered on each side, griddled,and then loaded with cream cheese prior to plating adding a whole extra level of luxury to an already rich dish.A must order for anyone who loves coffee cake – the last time I had one so good was actually, ironically, at Zingerman’s Roadhouse in Ann Arbor.
For my appetizer it had to be the cupcake – and an excellent cupcake it is.Small and pricey at $3 the “simple” chocolate cupcake features local European style butter, dutch processed cocoa, and the smoothest frosting you can imagine loaded with Nielsen Massey vanilla extract.Dense and moist, springy and luxurious it was definitely in my top 5 cupcakes all time…I only wish they had more flavors.
Moving on to our main courses it was clear that Nate did not share my sister’s and my taste for a morning sugar bolus – he selected the bruschetta crostini layered with scrambled eggs, smoked chicken sausage, tomato-red onion-balsamic mix, & topped with queso fresco.Quite large in portion I will note that the dish looked and smelled excellent (and Nate ate every bite) but I did not try a bite.
Moving on to more sinful selections my sister opted for the cupcake pancakes – that’s right, pancakes made from the same luxurious batter (sans cocoa) as the signature cupcake.Somewhat more crispy on the exterior than the average pancakes but with a moist and intoxicating interior almost like a custard the stack of three cakes was topped with sweetened vanilla bean butter and a “ration” of pure maple syrup.Tasting quite akin to the cupcake the only way this dish could’ve been better is if it were slathered with the same frosting as the cupcakes themselves.
Knowing going in the door that the Bread Pudding Pancakes were at the top of my “must order” list I was thrilled to find out they offered single cakes – this would allow me to sample more than one “main course.”Fascinated by the marriage of two of my favorite foods – bread pudding and pancakes – expectations for the dish were high and fortunately were not only met, but trumped.Described at length here (http://www.southportgrocery.com/2010/10/28/bread-pudding-pancakes-a-tasty-mystery/) from their inception to the recipe all I can say is that the pancakes are a little slice of heaven in the form of a pancake, or bread pudding, or whatever.
For my actual main course the selection of the day came down to a decision between two types of French Toast – and eventually the victor was Stuffed french toast with seasonal local apples, cream cheese, streusel, soy-maple reduction & pralines, plus a “ration” of local apple butter.Buttery and crisp on the exterior with an admixture of apple, cream cheese, and streusel inside the custardy bread the French Toast itself was exemplary, but what truly made the dish was the sweet yet savory reduction which tasted like a 50/50 blend of soy sauce and pure maple syrup.Topped with toasty candied almonds and a cinnamon spiked apple puree the whole amalgam was nicely balanced, beautiful, and entirely satisfying.
Reading the above review some people may call me gushing and I have to say I cannot disagree.From the store to the setting to the free parking to the service to the food Southport is doing everything right.As someone who has visited many of the “best” breakfast and brunch places in the United States I can definitively say that Southport Grocery and Café, their cupcake, their coffee cake, and their pancake all rank in my all time top 5 – there is no doubt I’ll be back on subsequent visits to Chicago and that Bread Pudding Pancake recipe will be replicated at home soon.
The circumstances that led my sister and I to a table at BonSoiree on the evening of November the 4th are a bit complex but I’ll try to explain.When I originally booked the trip I knew I would have 4 dinners available, the 4th was to be Schwa with my sister, the 5th undecided, the 6th an Extended Tasting at Everest with a local friend, and the 7th at The Girl and the Goat prior to my flight home.After much debate I selected BonSoiree over Avenues and Graham Elliot as my Friday meal largely due to the excellent looking menu and tremendous customer service provided by Dozzy Ibekwe – the 13 course menu was selected and I was told the chef would be ordering some “unique” ingredients for the evening.
Excited as I was, things change.First my friend had to change his date due to family issues, then Schwa called me to cancel my reservation only 2 hours beforehand due to issues in their building (more on this in a future review) – scrambling for an ideal situation I called BonSoiree and asked if my sister and I could come in on the 4th.Speaking with Chef Shin I was told that they’d be glad to have us on the 4th but the 13 course would not be available – instead they could do 10-11 courses – and happily we accepted a reservation for 6:00pm – a reservation for which we’d be 45 minutes late due to rain that became hale and traffic that went from slow to stopped.Finally arriving we drove right past the unmarked restaurant at first but then realized our error, parked for free, and walked back in the suddenly clear weather.
Entering Bonsoiree we were greeted promptly and given our choice of “any two top” as the restaurants 26 seats were less than 1/3 full.Seated towards the front and away from the kitchen I have to admit I was somewhat taken back by the design of the space – intimate to say the least a combination of exposed brick walls, dangling track lighting, and floral sculptures plus a soundtrack of the kitchen’s sounds were all the ambiance provided and small details such as chipped paint seemed a tad out of place.Notably the hand selected plates at each course were an excellent touch but unfortunately a few were chipped and certainly needing replacement in the coming months, the silverware too was dingy.
Hanging our server her BYO “S.O.S.” beer we were provided with filtered tap water and our somewhat extended menu was confirmed.BonSoiree does not offer bread service or any beverages outside of water and while I will note that service was adequate, it certainly was not on the level of that provided by Dozzy in arranging the evening.Certainly everything arrived nicely and with excellent temperature and adequate description plus I was even presented with a hand printed copy of the menu at night’s end, but plates often sat empty for several minutes prior to clearing, water thrice reached empty, and servers largely seemed disengaged from the diners until the very last two courses.
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Beginning the meal would be the nightly amuse a Frozen Black Grape topped tableside with a creamy Warm White Grape Cider.An interesting texture and temperature contrast this opening volley was simple in concept but dynamic on the palate as it was downed in a single gulp.
The first proper course of the meal would be Pumpkin Salad with Escargot, White Anchovy, Baby Frissee, and Pumpkin 5 ways.Served on an elaborate plate made of hand-blown glass this salad was a great introduction to the chefs’ style with a unique interplay of sweet and savory, textured and smooth, and French technique meets Eastern styling.With pumpkin seeds, vinaigrette, boiled, tempurad, and pickled forming the majority of the dish the varying styles were appealing to both the eye and the mouth while the nicely prepared Escargot melted on the tongue.Not particularly a fan of Anchovies in general I will note that these were actually quite mild and nicely balanced by the bitter greens and punchy vinaigrette.
The second course would prove to be the most traditional Japanese presentation of the night, but at the same time not traditional at all in its flavor profile.Titled Crab and Scallop Motoyaki with Torched Ponzu Aioli the dish was served in a shell with sizeable chunks of fresh crab and scallops interspersed in the creamy admixture with hints of soy and yuzu.First cooked in the oven and then bruleed for a crackling crust the dish was potentially the most sweet of the evening, even compared to the desserts.
Dish number three was perhaps Chef Shin’s “signature,” an item always available at a supplemental cost.Entitled Duck Duck Goose the course featured a nicely prepared slice of Seared Duck Breast atop melt-in-the-mouth and surprisingly un-crispy Duck Confit alongside a seared slice of Foie Gras, fig puree, crabapple, and smooth saffron gastrique.Served elegantly in stackable Plexiglas boxes I was pleasantly surprised that my sister actually enjoyed this rather firm preparation of Foie as she generally does not.A solid dish I must say that as a supplement it really did not seem to “fit” the East meets West theme of the rest of the meal.
Getting back to the seasonal menu, plate four was a shallow yet enormous rimmed bowl featuring Kabocha and Nasturtium Soup with Tempura Chive Bites, Japanese Cajun Spice, Oberon Caramel, Maitake Chip, and Cognac Apple Melt.Boozy and spicy, sweet and savory, and smooth as silk until you added the tempura bites the nutty sweetness of the Japanese Pumpkin was perfectly highlighted by the multitude of ingredients, each detectable but none overwhelming save for the mild aftertaste of cognac.
Dish five was another “always available” supplement on the Bonsoiree menu – the Smoking Bacon Box with house cured pork belly bacon, sunny side quail eggs, toasted ouzo marshmallow, and applewood smoke.Served in a small box and opened tableside with a puff of smoke arising from the marshmallow that filled the room with a lovely smell of pork and spice we both found this dish to be far more successful than the Duck Duck Goose – it was the second best dish of the night by both our palates.Crispy and slightly sweet the pork was divine while the egg added its characteristic smoothness – a dish worth visiting Bonsoiree for any time of the year.
Arriving after the box was my sister’s favorite dish of the night, served in a long hollowed out porcelain bowl, Slow cooked Rabbit with Madeira Beurre Blanc, Pancetta Gnocchi, Tomato Intensity, and Sage Silhouette.Nutty and supple the rabbit was the best I’ve tasted and it paired nicely with the robust sweetness of the Madeira.Flanking the rabbit were two fluffy pillows of savory gnocchi, tomato confit, and dehydrated sage that had been concentrated and melded with gelatin to form a single blade of “sage” that tasted, if possible, more sage-like than the herb itself.While I wasn’t quite as wowed as my sister who was still talking about it days later it was certainly an outstanding dish.
For our “main course” we saw a return to Shin’s French meets Asian ingredient style in the form of Pumpernickle Crusted Lamb Loin with Karashi, Japanese BBQ, Furikake matchsticks, nori-roasted sunchoke.Not a fan of mustard in 95% of instances I certainly could have done without the karashi, but aside from that small detail this dish was quite good, albeit not quite as adventurous as others of the meal.Nicely prepared the lamb itself was excellent and ample in portion.Flanking the lamb loin was a lamb-neck meatball with spiciness reminiscent of chorizo and crispy sunchokes plus matchstick “fries” both tasting somewhat briny.Served horizontally on an unfortunately chipped porcelain plate the dish was potentially the most oriental “looking” of the meal.
Moving on to our cheese course, my favorite of the night, the 8th dish of the evening featured Uni Grilled Cheese with Candied Brussels Sprouts, French Onion Dust, and Pomegranate Molasses.While my sister did not fancy this dish, largely because she does not prefer the unctuous nature of urchin, I personally loved the manner in which the uni butter and small section of mollusk accented the aged white cheddar. Featuring untraditional cheese-course sides like a crisp candy-like Brussels Sprout and intensely fructose molasses I could’ve eaten about 5 of these instead of the two I ended up having.
After a short break and chit-chat with our neighbor (a single female Chicagoan who’d obviously been to Bonsoiree multiple times but had never heard of Alinea – confusing, yes) we were informed it was time for dessert – the first of which was served on a simple white plate and entitled Boston Cream Beignets with Cardamom Fudge, Almond Icing, Charred Nectarine, Creme Brulee Ice Cream.A stunning dessert in all ways this dish featured a Cocoa Laden Beignet coated with Almond Icing and a Vanilla Cream Beignet with a gingery fudge situated atop a drizzle of smoky nectarine puree.In a small cup sat a smooth frozen custard topped with a crystal chip – it too was delicious, but almost “too sweet.”
The final course of our evening was served with instructions – specifically to “break” the yolk and to eat the “Button” last.Clever and whimsical the Eggs Benedict with Sweet English Muffin, Candied Bacon, Lavender Hollandaise, Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta, Encapsulated Mango, and Sansho Pepper Button looked very much like its namesake breakfast dish.With a scone-like muffin sliced lengthwise and topped with candied pork, a ring of smooth vanilla, and a Moto-like fruit capsule the true star of this dish was actually the Hollandaise – a thick and creamy sauce with excellent floral tones that seemed to bring everything to a peak on the palate.Having never experienced Sichuan (Sansho) pepper in the past I have to admit I was a bit curious on why we were instructed to eat this last and separate from the dish but a single taste set aside all question – talk about the ultimate palate cleanser.
When it was all said and done the total with tax and tip was approximately $140 per person – certainly not cheap, but also not out of line when compared with other 9+ course tasting menus in the city (Avenues, TRU, Moto, L2o, Alinea, Graham Elliot, Schwa, etc.)Settling the bill I thanked everyone for a great meal and for being so accommodating, but I still felt somewhat guilty for changing plans last minute – I still wonder what could’ve been had we done the 13 course with specially ordered items.
That noted, I feel Bonsoiree sits amongst the top 10 restaurants I’ve experienced in Chicago and the setting and price point (especially for those who choose to bring alcohol) is quite nice for both the shorter and longer menu.An excellent reservationist and a talented chef could very well net Bonsoiree a star when Michelin hands out rankings in a week but considering Shin’s talents I rather wonder if they could aspire for more by focusing on the little things like silverware, plating, and service.Overall I certainly wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Bonsoiree for a nice night out – but I’d also not rush back before returning to a number of other Windy City top tables.
In September of 2009 I ate at The Gage prior to U2’s opening date of the US tour at Soldier Field – it was a great meal in the most unlikely of spaces for someone who doesn’t fancy bars, beer, or “pub” food…and the concert was excellent too.Preferring French to any other cuisine I was particularly interested when I heard that Executive Chef Dirk Flanigan and Chef de Cuisine Christopher Cubberley had decided to expand their line of restaurants one door down from the Gage – a new concept called Henri with a menu “influenced by the refining principles of classical cuisine.”
Named after architect Louis Henri Sullivan, a huge influence on the Chicago city-scape, Henri sits nicely just off of Millennium Park and knowing my sister and friends would not be arriving until mid-day I made reservations for one at noon. Arriving early I wandered the park for a while before returning to the restaurant where I was greeted warmly and sat immediately – still carrying my bags they were checked at once by a friendly hostess.Offered the option of a table near the front or the back I chose the back – as it turns out there were only 2 tables open in the entire restaurant.
Led through the bustling dining room and seated at a cozy two-top everything about Henri felt the part of classic French Bistro – heavy drapery, velvet walls, hardwood floors, crown molding, crystal chandeliers, and an oyster bar to boot.With water filled I was handed the daily menu and a cocktail list with my waiter returning shortly thereafter to ask if I had any questions and subsequently to take orders.Without belaboring service I will note that for a “bistro” the service was excellent – water never reached half empty, food arrived with adequate description, and timing was excellent – I was never left to want for anything despite the busy nature of the lunch hour at such a popular location.
Merely moments after my orders were taken I was greeted by the bread man – a friendly fellow presenting a single option, but an excellent one.Described as a “mini baguette” and served with a sweet room temperature butter the roll arrived warm from the oven and a crispy golden crust yielded a soft and supple interior with a delicate crumb.Akin in texture and flavor to Keller’s Epi at Bouchon I ended up eating three of these rolls and gladly would’ve eaten more had I not been trying to pace myself.
Arriving approximately 20 minutes after seating my first course was obvious – and at $22 the most expensive appetizer choice on the menu.Served with golden pan-grilled brioche the Torchon of Foie Gras with apricot and aged balsamic would turn out to be every bit as good as I’d hoped.Classic in presentation the liver itself was served in three large slices, each topped with salt and pepper plus flowers for garnish.Perfectly cleaned and nicely textured the unctuous liver paired nicely with the sweet and savory aspects of the fruit and vinegar while the brioche was crisp, warm, and buttery.Quality ingredients, excellent presentation – exactly what I expected.
Finishing up the Foie Gras I sat back and waited for my main course – my other “must order” on the menu loaded with wonderful choices.Arriving piping hot and with a side of crispy pommes frites and ketchup, the Croque Madame with aged French ham, Comte, and Gruyere on Brioche was every bit as classic as the Foie Gras – and every bit as strong a representation.Thick with a sweet and smoky ham the crisp brioche stood up nicely to Gruyere both inside and out while a layer of Comte coated the top of the sandwich.Topped with a single fresh farm egg served over easy I sliced the sandwich bite by bite with the provided Laguiole knife and was absolutely delighted – a dish on par with my favorite Croque of all time at The Butler and the Chef and every bit worth the hefty $18.50 price tag.
Impressed by the savories I strongly considered dessert until I received a text from my sister saying they’d arrived in town and I was informed by my waiter that the lemon soufflé was only available at dinner.Sated but not stuffed I opted to settle the bill – a bill arriving with a lemon pate de fruit – and thanked my server and hostess for an excellent experience.While I’m sure the hype surrounding Henri will wane as the restaurant ages I certainly hope the quality of food and service doesn’t change.While it certainly isn’t a cheap lunch, the quality and location justifies the cost and a reservation is definitely worth the effort.With Irish Pub and French Bistro exemplified one can only wonder what is next for Chef Flanigan and team, but whatever it is I’ll be sure to check it out.
Leaving Henri I received a text from my sister saying they were hungry and headed to Pizzeria Uno as they do each year at SOFA.Having never been to Uno on my many visits to Chicago due to the lines and lack of reservations I texted her back – I’d meet them there – I still had stomach real estate to spare. Turning north and walking quickly I arrived at the restaurant in approximately 20 minutes and found the crew seated at a small table in the jam packed restaurant – an order already placed and due in 20 minutes.
Regardless of what rumor you believe about the invention of Chicago-Style pizza, whether it be 1941 or 1943, Sewell or Malnati, there is no doubt Uno is the name most folks think of when they think of Deep Dish Pizza and as such I expected something special.Arriving a mere 10 minutes after I sat down the pizza arrived piping hot and thick as expected.With a plethoric crust in a well seasoned pan and sides pulled up high the crust was covered with cheese and then, per my sister’s order, Spinach, broccoli, chunky tomatoes, feta, Cheddar, mozzarella and grated Romano forming the Spinoccoli pizza.
With servings plated for each of us I took a bite of the hot pie and instantly felt a hint of disappointment.Perhaps it was the choice of pie – certainly not what I’d have ordered – but the taste was largely butter and broccoli, no tomato and certainly no bite.Unlike the spicy and acidic sauce melding with creamy mozzarella at Art of Pizza or the caramelized crust herbal sauce at Lou Malnati’s there was simply nothing special to the pie and I certainly couldn’t taste 2 different cheeses, let alone four.
Paying the modest tab and making our way to the door we passed by a waiting throng of at least forty – I wanted to tell them it wasn’t worth it – to walk down to Lou’s where there is no wait and better pizza.Obviously I refrained – perhaps someday I’ll go back and try something a bit more traditional – but with so many great places left to try I somehow doubt it.
The day started like any other in Ohio – early alarm, a trip to the gym, and my typical breakfast…four clock hours later (5 minus 1 accounting for time difference) I found myself seated at a table at Jam in Chicago for the first meal of my most recent trip to the Windy City – this time to see SOFA.With my sister and her art pals coming to town via car and myself flying Jam would be one of my solo meals for the trip and arriving shortly after 8am the place was largely empty.Seated immediately and presented with a menu I ordered a coffee and browsed the scene.
Owned and operated by Jeffrey Mauro (who was manning the open front kitchen along with a young female,) Jam defines “hipster kitsch” in terms of music (Radiohead to Beach Boys,) layout (Acrylic Chairs,) and menu (upscale brunch classics somewhat reinvented.)It is also cash only.Sipping my coffee, a sturdy blend by Metropolis, I was next greeted by my server and orders were placed – a pastry and the dish described as their “signature.”I will note that the online menu is not up to date, though both the online menu and in-store menu were full of wonderful sounding options.
Settled in I was first delivered an amuse bouche – a nice touch for breakfast.Slightly bigger than a thimble the apple cider brioche was perfect for the season – loaded with spice and dissolving on the tongue in a manner similar to a gougere.
Arriving second and plated much more elaborately than I’d have expected from something simply described as a “cinnamon roll” was – well – a cinnamon roll.Served hot off the grill and frosted in the open kitchen the pastry was of similar dimensions to a hockey puck but crisp and flaky seated next to a lovely hand whipped cream and raspberry jam.Somewhere between a croissant and a cinnamon roll in texture, buttery and aromatic – one of the better cinnamon rolls I’ve ever had, and small enough to serve as an excellent appetizer.
For my main course I opted for the Malted Custard French Toast with Macerated Rhubarb, Lime Leaf Cream, and Pink Peppercorn.Watching the dish prepared from start to finish I will first note that this is some elaborate French Toast – thick brioche was pulled from a large container of liquid and first pan seared prior to entering the oven to be finished.After approximately 10 minutes in the oven the dish was plated and served up piping hot.Unfortunately everything that the toast had in preparation and presentation it largely lacked in flavor.Buttery for sure and interesting in the interplay of lime and peppercorn the dish lacked any sweetness aside from that imparted by the Rhubarb.While this dish may have found a more receptive audience amongst those who prefer a savory breakfast it simply wasn’t my style.Adding to the disappointment, when I was presented with the bill it turned out I could’ve ordered a half-order and thus saved stomach space for another menu item.
When it was all said and done I settled the bill – just over $20 with a good tip for excellent service – and made my way to the street en route for MillenniumlaceName> ParklaceType>.While Jam was good, particularly in comparison to the options in my home town, I can’t say I’d rush back – there are simply too many excellent breakfast and brunch spots in Chicago.
Nowhere near full and having already walked over 6 miles in addition to my workout I decided my next stop would be something to quell my sweet tooth – what better name than Sugar Bliss to accomplish such a task?Owned and operated by Le Cordon Bleu trained Teresa Ging I’d heard fantastic things about Sugar Bliss but had missed out on my previous two trips to Chicago due, largely, to lack of stomach capacity.
Arriving around 10:00am I was happy to find the shop uncrowded and even more thrilled when I realized they sold minis – what better way to sample a variety?Greeted by a pleasant young lady who couldn’t have been more than 20 years old I asked her what she would recommend and was surprised at her candid answers as she told me exactly which ones she liked and why.Having planned to only try one or two her salesmanship turned that number into one regular sized cupcake, four minis, and a dollar tip – $10 for what was essentially the size of two cupcakes – I told you she was good.
Making my way to the street I started with a full sized Red Velvet – the method of standardization used in my cupcake ratings.Frosted with a beautiful flower of cream cheese the cupcake was moist and delicate but not the sort that falls apart.The cream cheese was slightly sour and melded excellently with the cocoa.Three bites later the cake was gone and I sat with a smile – certainly one of the best red velvets I have ever tasted.
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Moving on to the minis I started with a nutty and aromatic carrot spice cake and then tasted a lovely peanut butter and chocolate – each excellent.I next moved on to the strawberry shortcake – complete with a Bruled strawberry and decadent whipped frosting.Finally, and most impressively, was a miniature S’mores – a deep and rich chocolate cake stuffed with smoky marshmallow filling and topped with chewy marshmallow frosting plus a chip of graham cracker.Each mini topping out at a single bite (and $1.50 each or four for $5) they certainly were not cheap, but the quality was worth every penny – to this point the best cupcakery I’ve experienced in Chicago.
Described as “upscale modern American” I had it on good word that the setting and food at Supper were worth the trip at any time of day, but especially at brunch.Browsing the online space and the menu I had to admit I liked the sound of it, but I’d be torn as to what to orders as there were so many divine options.Per usual I figured it never hurts to ask if half orders could be accommodated and I e-mailed the restaurant… surprisingly Mitch Prensky answers his own e-mails…he allows half orders…and he also makes an excellent brunch in his own kitchen…dinner too, I’d gather.
Arriving shortly after my 11:00am reservation and a morning wandering around the Italian Market and Philadelphia’s Magic Garden I was greeted pleasantly by a hostess who noted my reservation and led me promptly to a nice seat directly next to the kitchen – a quick glance over my shoulder gave me full view of the chef’s and action.Minimally crowded at the early hour I smiled at the minimalist exposed brick and wood design, playful overhead music, and folks sitting at the bar with their daily libations.
Water filled I assented to coffee – a smooth and mild morning brew and was asked if I needed to see a menu since Chef Prensky had already noted the item’s I’d inquired about.Figuring it never hurts to look I again browsed the menu and although the Lamb French Dip, Supper Dog, and Johnny Cakes sounded tempting I stuck to my original order and added a side dish.Stating I’d made a “great choice” my server left me to coffee and the tunes overhead.As the place was empty aside from two other tables the service was predictably spot on and my server stopped by to chat a couple of times – mostly about the collapsing Phillies.
Waiting and watching as the chefs prepared my items the kitchen was spotless and calm – quite large as well.After approximately 15 minutes my server would appear with my first course – the side dish of Cornbread Hush Puppies.Steaming hot – too hot to eat at first, actually, I allowed the little orbs to cool before taking a bite.Perfectly described by the golf-ball sized pieces were crisp outside and moist inside with plenty of corn flavor and hints of what I believe were honey and bacon renderings.Nicely done and enough to share if dining with a group.
Shortly following the hush puppies – actually, arriving after I’d only eaten one due to the temperature – would be my two half-mains. Beginning with the “good,” and then moving to the “amazing,” the first item was Red Velvet Waffles with sweet cream cheese mousse, toasted pecans and bourbon cherries.A small square, mildly crisp outside and fluffy within, the waffle was tasty with hints of cocoa.What made the dish shine, however, was the whipped and airy cream cheese mousse and boozy bourbon cherries.
While the waffles were good, the Key Lime French Toast with graham cracker crust, key lime cream, warm blueberries and coconut marshmallow were amongst the top 5 breakfast concoctions I’ve had in 2010.Dainty but custard laden within the French Toast itself was good, especially coated with a crisp and crunchy layer of Graham crackers.Pairing the toast with torch bruleed marshmallows topped with shredded coconut, sour key lime mousse/cream, and sweetened fresh blueberries provided a nearly tropical experience and a dish that is entirely too time consuming to be prepared at home – and an excellent reason to visit Supper.
Settling the extremely modest tab and thanking the chef as well as my servers I made my way to the street, past the “old school cereal bar” and toward the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.Invariably impressive from the customer service to the space to the food I wholeheartedly recommend everyone check out Supper’s brunch for a change-up to the long lines at other Philly “institutes,” it was the best breakfast I’ve had since May in Baltimore.
En route to the Cathedral I made a point of stopping by Garces Trading Company to pick up a few pounds of coffee and snacks to enjoy while awaiting my plane at the airport.Arriving early in their brunch hour the place was crowded and loud – so much so that it took me nearly 20 minutes to purchase two pounds of coffee, a cannele, and two Macarons.
While I will say that the coffee was excellent (I’m actually drinking some of the mildly cinnamon kissed GTC Reserva while writing this) the pastries did not fare as well…and although I cannot be sure, I’d venture to say that they were baked in advance and refrigerated – or at least the canele was as it lacked any crunch or nuance, instead almost marshmallow in texture and far too sweet.While the Macarons fared better – particularly the Caramel Butter cream, the shell lacked the characteristic crackle.
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All in all I’d give the Trading Co another shot – the cured meats selection and cheeses looked fantastic and the people enjoying their brunch seemed happy and boisterous – but I really don’t like when traditional French pastries come out soggy, limp, and overly sweet…but perhaps I shouldn’t expect traditional French from a man whose history is Spanish and Latino fusion?Too bad really, better pastries would make an excellent pairing for the outstanding coffee.
Surviving my trip to Camden despite a chance encounter with the wrong bus and some rather insistent homeless persons along my walk to and from the Adventure Aquarium, I arrived back in Philadelphia via bus safely and quickly.Thirsty and low on caffeine I decided to pay a visit to the roasters who had wowed my palate during three great meals via Vetri – La Colombe.Entering the small shop to the predicable aroma of coffee and the sounds of cappuccino machines I was surprised (but not really) to find a line of approximately ten at 5:30pm.
Browsing the small and well cultivated collection I inquired of the barista which blend was used at Vetri and he was surprisingly unaware that they used La Colombe products.No matter, my next question was about flavor profiles and noting my preference for chocolate, caramel, fig, honey, and wood over citrus he directed me to two blends – I bought a pound of each.As an added bonus, a second sales person was in the midst of re-filling their bakery case with fresh scones and canele.Selecting two canele the barista spotted me a free 12 ounce coffee, I settled the tab, and took a seat.
Lacking Wi-Fi I sat and browsed my map to see if there was anything fun I could see before my dinner reservations while I sipped my coffee.Deciding to taste the canele while fresh I will note that they were an excellent example – perhaps the second best I’ve had outside of Laurent Gras mignardise at L2o.Crunchy exterior, flawless eggy custard within, sweet without being overwhelming.
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Having now consumed half of my first pound of Nizza I’m rather certain that is the version served at Vetri – but quite frankly, the cup of Monaco I had at the café was also quite excellent.All said, La Colombe’s limited lineup seems to allow them to focus on blends that work very well and the staff, shop, and sourcing are all top notch.
Making my way from La Colombe I began the slow walk across Philadelphia en route to the final dinner of my gastronomic tour – according to Phillymag I’d be visiting the city’s best restaurant a mere two hours later.Having never really been a fan of Middle Eastern food in the past I have to admit that my visit to Washington DC had done a lot to place Zahav on my list of “must eat” places for the trip – both Zaytinya and more so Komi had impressed my palate and dining sensibilities.Calling and e-mailing the restaurant a month in advance I will say that Jilian was the most helpful concierge in the city outside the folks at Bibou (unfortunately on vacation during my trip.)
Schlepping across town and visiting the tomb of the unknown en route I have to admit I was a bit taken back when I arrived at Zahav – I don’t know what I expected, but a strip mall style appearing restaurant on the second floor of a flavorless building in the middle of residential East Philadelphia was not it.Entering the space it was surprisingly large – the bar to the right, kitchen to the left, high ceilings and well spaced tables.Decorated darkly and sparsely in sandstone and splotches of stained glass with acceptable kitchen noise and what I can only assume to be “Middle Eastern” music playing overhead the restaurant definitely conveyed a cohesive theme and the bar was packed.
Greeted by the host (who actually remembered calling me the day before as “the guy who couldn’t hear a thing because you were at the Phillies game”) I was greeted and my bag stored before being led to my table, a cozy wooden two top near the windows in back.Seated I would next be greeted by my server and the Maitre D’ who introduced himself and said “So, you’re the guy who wants to try the lamb shoulder solo?No one has ever ordered it alone before, y’know?”Chuckling I did indeed confirm that I was the guy who’d asked Jilian if this was allowable – the rave reviews just seemed too good to ignore.
At this point I feel the need to divert my review for a moment in explanation.When I originally contacted Jilian I explained to her that I wanted to try the lamb, but if that prevented me from getting multiple rounds of mezze then I’d prefer go the small plates route, especially in the setting of the new seasonal tasting menu.I specifically told her the sweetbreads, crispy haloumi, and “The Hungarian” were dished I’d be interested in trying.Additionally, when I spoke to the Maitre D’ I again expressed my desire to taste “as many different things as I could” to which I received the response “I think you’ll be tasting about 90% of what we do this evening.”With a chef as talented as Michael Solomonov and a front of house trained under Danny Meyer I was thrilled.
With the Mesibah confirmed it would be only moments before my primary server, a delightful and pleasant young female, would arrive with a plate of spices and a bowl of pickled vegetables.Tasty and crisp the pickled cornichons, radishes, and olives were a nice opening taste but the spices – ranging from quite mild to scorching – were a bit lost on me since each dish was teaming with unique spicing blends at presentation.
Arriving next on the table and sharing space with the pickles and spices would be the oft raved Hummus-tehina with sesame paste, garlic, lemon, olive oil, cumin, parsley and house made laffa bread.Teaming with spice, most notably cumin, and smooth as silk save for the occasional chunky chick pea the hummus was fantastic.Crispy and mildly charred the laffa was a solid example, but not in the same ballpark as the light-as-air version at Komi.
The next dish, costing $24 on the standard menu, yet included in the $42 Mesibah would be the “sampling of Salatim.”A daily rotating selection of eight salads my selections seemed similar to those mentioned by previous friends and gourmands with a few unique items; smoked eggplant, stewed okra, beets with tahini, pickled wax beans, shredded carrots and jalapeño, Israeli salad, spiced fennel, and tabouleh.While no option was bad, the shredded carrots were quite unique and the stewed okra and smoked eggplant were both fantastic.
With the tiered tray cleared my proper mezze would begin first with the watermelon salad topped with Bulgarian feta, black olive paste, and crispy parsley.Not generally a fan of watermelon I have to say I was a bit disappointed when I saw the dish arrive but I quickly warmed up to it after taking a taste.Nicely picked and prepared the watermelon was surprisingly tame for such a potent fruit while the earthy olive paste, pungent feta, and intriguingly textured parsley added another dimension of flavor and depth.Very well thought out and not overly filling I was left excited for what would come next.
Following the Watermelon rather quickly (perhaps less than ten minutes) would be my second mezze – Fish kofte or “fish balls” made of halibut and served over spicy chickpeas and boiled English peas.Light and laden with herbs (cumin, cinnamon, cilantro) the packets were intense with flavor and the admixture of chickpeas and English peas was bright and bold.
Finishing the three small fish bits rather quickly I was next brought a pair of tongs and a large serving plate – the server stating “your lamb will be out soon.”Finding this weird having communicated my preferences and having been told “90%” only 30 minutes earlier I sat puzzled…for 45 minutes.While the water man would pass frequently and refill my beverage my server would not return again during the delay – as a matter of fact, the next time I would see her was when dessert was delivered as the Maitre d’ himself would present The Whole- roasted lamb shoulder with pomegranate and chickpeas.
I will have to admit I was surprised when the shoulder arrived – not just because I hadn’t gotten any of the other mezze I desired, but because I figured they’d scale the course down for one person – they did not.Perched atop a bed of Egyptian rice and sweet, savory, and crunchy chickpeas the shoulder was enormous, flawlessly executed, and decadent.Crisp skin – salty and savory – yielded a thick layer of fat and unctuous supple flesh that literally melted in the mouth.Eating slowly and pairing the protein with the saffron perfumed rice and chunky chick peas there was not a doubt in my mind that the lamb trumped Amada’s pig in terms of skilled preparation and flavor.Setting aside fat and bone and focusing on protein over carbs I actually managed the whole shoulder with ease – seemingly to the amusement and shock of the diners around me and the maitre d’.So shocking, apparently, was my accomplishment that the Maitre D’ brought Chef Solomonov over to my table to introduce us and after a long chat about the Philadelphia dining scene, his former employer Marc Vetri, and the film “The Great Outdoors” he said “You know, you’re the first person to ever eat that solo – with the blond hair and an appetite like that you’re like a Viking!”
Viking tendencies aside I declined to have the fat, bone, and small amount of rice packed up to go – I instead sat and enjoyed a cup of dark and nutty coffee while I awaited my dessert, the house special Halvah mousse with blueberry puree and chickpea praline.Similar in texture to the sublime budino at Osteria the day before the “parfait” was served in a glass with layers of texturally complex custardy mousse intermingling with New Jersey blueberry puree and topped with a chickpea praline that bordered between corn-nut and pop rocks in texture; a fantastic dessert with plenty of character and balance.
When the meal was completed, after a second cup of coffee, I was presented with the bill and plenty of thanks from the staff.Full, but not uncomfortably so I settled the tab and made my way to the street for a pleasant walk back to the Italian Village – my first night out “late” on a weekend I was treated to Philly’s impressively lively “scene” as I wandered.Impressed by the food I tried but overall somewhat disappointed that my tastes were not accounted for I filled out my opentable survey (as I always do) on my return to Ohio and for the first time in my life actually received a response from the restaurant – Jilian stating that she was sorry to hear that things hadn’t been perfect – that there had apparently been a miscommunication – or more specifically “Because you were our first brave guest to order the Mesibah dinner for one, I know our staff was trying to ensure that you were able to enjoy as many items as possible without becoming overwhelmed with the quantity of food (especially with the signature lamb shoulder as the final savory course.)”
Overall a good meal that could have been great – from now on I guess I’ll have to make restaurants aware they are dealing with a Viking.If I ever have the chance to go back I’m ordering the tasting and supplementing substantially – $48 for five courses of Solomonov quality food is a steal…or perhaps a pillage or plunder?
Amongst the primary reasons for visiting Philadelphia – research, museums, sports, dining, and culture – dining at Le Bec Fin was decidedly one of the more significant.Once considered by many the best restaurant in the United States I’d recently heard that Georges Perrier’s vaunted Le Bec Fin was to close its doors forever within the coming year…the rent was too expensive, American’s no longer fancied formal French, the chef was planning to use the money for myriad new projects – the reason did not really matter, I only knew I needed to enjoy the experience before it disappeared forever.
Housed in a bank-like vaulted building along Walnut Street I rather wished I could have seen Le Bec Fin in its hay day instead of under its current circumstances (housed next to an Urban Outfitters, for instance,) but having heard mixed reviews over the previous years I had it on good advice that the kitchen and service were on the up and up.With the mandatory jacket policy and fancy “Please Ring for Admittance – Merci” button replaced by business casual, lunch and prix-fixe options instead of the traditional tasting menu it seems as though Perrier realized the pretense was not packing the house.After a long walk from breakfast to a morning tour of the Eastern State Penitentiary I would make my seminal visit to Le Bec Fin for their Saturday Lunch.
Entering the small (think a medium size elevator) lobby I was greeted by a pleasant male/female hosting combination and upon checking in the female took my bag to a storage room while the man led me to a fine seat in the center of the elaborate dining room.With the room more than half full I was glad to see most everyone dressed appropriately – I wore a jacket because it felt right and most of the crowd, 50+ year olds in general, did the same.Browsing around the multiple chandeliered room with large twenty foot high pale yellow walls and floor to ceiling mirrors everything felt very fine – even a spot pretentious, but not overwhelmingly so.
Settling into what may be the most comfortable chairs in dining history and placing the thick linen napkin on my lap I was greeted by a young man who inquired as to whether I preferred tap or bottled water – selecting tap my glass was filled and remained well above half-full throughout the meal’s two hour duration.Three knives, three forks – all silver, a potted plant, and salt and pepper shakers decorated the well padded table and I’d shortly be greeted by my server, a pleasant and jovial man who admitted to being new to the Perrier family, but never failed to have the (right) answer to any question or request.Presented with the menu it was explained that there was an a la carte, a 3-course business lunch, or the tasting menu – I was also told of three specials and given suggestions as to the restaurant’s signatures.
Left for a few moments to decide on my choices I browsed the room and fellow diners – most if not all seemed to be celebrating events and it seemed as though there was a 2-server to 1-table ratio throughout.Tables were well spaced while the music was somewhat cheesy-classic and low enough that it was ignorable but loud enough to drown the din of other tables conversations.Returning my server asked if I was ready to order, indeed I was.“I’ll have the tasting menu and I’d like to add a couple of courses.”“Sir, I must warn you that will be a lot of food.”“I’m sure I’ll be fine.”After a few jokes I inquired about the cheese and dessert cart and was informed they are not operated during lunch, but that any/all selections from either could be done as a composed plate.
Water refilled and silverware doled out for the first course the bread man would next arrive.Along with a surprisingly sweet butter there were three forms of warm bread at Le Bec Fin on the day of my lunch – a French miche naturally leavened with house-stock wild yeast, a traditional sliced white baguette, and sweet and dense potato bread.Sampling each I’ll ended up sticking with the miche – almost “sourdough” but somewhat smoky.
My first course of the afternoon would be course one of the tasting.Served in a small sauté dish which was uncapped tableside the Escargots Cassolette with Hazelnut, Champagne, Garlic Butter smelled like a dream come true – a very pungent dream.Featuring shelled and plump snails, at least ten to my tongue, plus tiny bits of chopped nuts in an aromatic broth with the bite of champagne but the base of pure butter and finely pressed garlic the dish wowed.While perhaps not something you’d want to order on a date night, the contrasting textures and rich aromatics were profound and well balanced…I soaked up every drop with a slice of baguette – my server agreed this was “the only way to do it.”
Course number two would be another successful dish and it would arrive with excellent timing, approximately ten minutes after I finished the Escargot.Titled Diver Sea Scallop, Charred Watermelon, Tomato, Rosewater Emulsion the dish did not really look all that interesting with a single scallop sitting in a cloud of foam, but looks are often time deceiving.Regarding the scallop – it was perfect, fresh, nearly brulee crisp on the exterior and practically raw within.More interesting than the scallop, however, was its bed – a texture I can only describe as finely chopped salsa with hints of smoke, sweetness, and acid all nicely balanced.The foam – tasteless, but with the nose of rosewater and melon – was a distinctive touch.
My third course would be one of my supplement courses – it would also be the best dish of the afternoon and every bit worth the title “signature.”Described in French as a Galette the Signature Crab Cake with French Green Beans and Whole Grain Mustard Sauce sat tall, proud, and without a bit of filler.More a crab burger than cake in shape/size and more a sweet crab omelet than cake in flavor the dish was topped tableside with a pour of buttery mustard speckled béarnaise that did not overpower but instead served to enhance – knowing that the recipe is readily available on the internet I only wish crab were more readily available in Ohio…not normally one to order a crab cake this is one I’d order at every visit.
Course four would be a return to the tasting menu – Mushroom Cappuccino of Wild Mushroom Veloute, Steamed Milk, White Pepper.Served in a coffee cup the dish was not fanciful to the eye, but more so to the tongue.Served piping hot the soup tasted the very essence of earthy aromatic mushrooms without detectable infusion of butter or enhancement.Topping the soup with creamy steamed milk and just a shake of salt and pepper served to bring out more subtle notes.Overall the weakest of the day’s courses, but certainly not a bad dish – good mushroom soup is never a bad thing.
Hitting a nice pace with a dish arriving every 15 minutes my next course would be the other supplement – 3 ounces of Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Port poached cherries, and French toast in a maple foie gras reduction.Flawlessly seared, perfectly clean, a little sweet, a lot savory – not a novel presentation, but a classic done classically.
For my main course there was the option of a black bass dish and lamb – I’d thought about asking if I could substitute in the Duck Margaret but decided to go with the lamb…a wise choice in retrospect.Described as Domestic Lamb Loin with Purple Cauliflower, Crunchy Oats, Marcona Almond, and Golden Raisin Reduction the dish was remarkable.Served medium rare and so tender that they opted against presenting it with a knife the lamb itself was a fine piece, slightly gamey as expected but well met with the sweet raisin reduction.Presented beautifully with the pureed purple cauliflower as a base and topped with a granola textured compote of oats and almonds the dish was a sight and flavor to behold.
Returning to find yet another empty plate my server seemed surprised stating “wow, I guess you weren’t kidding about having an appetite…but did you save room for dessert?”The answer was obvious and – and coffee sounded like a grand idea as well.Presented quickly in a sterling French Press along with the dessert menu the coffee was largely unmemorable, but it remained full and certainly wasn’t subpar.Looking at the dessert menu I was told I could order the Crème Brulee, a single cake from the dessert carte, or a few different slices of cake to try.“How about a little of each” I asked?Wide eyed the response was “of course.”
Waiting approximately 20 minutes while the desserts were plated in the kitchen the restaurant was now bustling – nearly every table full nearing 2:00pm.Enjoying my coffee and its subsequent refills the plates that would arrive yet were unfortunately not from a trolley or carte, but they certainly were beautiful.Arriving with ample description, two plates and easily a pound in weight – all nine of Le Bec Fin’s signature desserts – to the shock of my server I would clean these plates as well.
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On the first plate, Gateau Le Bec Fin with Rum-Soaked Chocolate Génoise and Chocolate Butter Cream, Costa Rica with Praline Crunch and Baily’s Cremeux and Coffee Marscarpone Mousse, Seasonal Lemon Tarte, and Wendy with Milk Chocolate Mousse and Vanilla-Bean Crème Brulée on Vanilla- Soaked Chocolate Sponge.Each expertly prepared and none lacking in quality for their respective ingredients I must stand in awe of the Gateau – an absolute masterpiece that melted into boozy puddles of chocolate in the mouth and the Costa Rica – like Tiramisu but more dense, more coffee, and less alcoholic.
The second plate would feature five options, the Mathilde with Soft Vanilla Macaroon and Lime Mousse with Raspberry Gelée , The St. Nizier Flourless Chocolate Cake, Mahogany of Coconut Dacquoise and Caramel Mousse with Mango Lychee Gelee, a Frozen Grand Marnier “Soufflé” with Candied Orange Peel, and Pecan-Sour Cream Coffee Cake with Cinnamon Streusel.While I’d have personally plated differently and placed the St. Nizier on the other plate with the lemon tarte here, the highlight of this plate was definitely the Mahogany with its airy cake, caramel filling, and lovely sour Gelee.
Clearing my plates the server asked me if there was anything else I’d like and jokingly I said “how about some cheese” which brought about much laughter – I have to admit I was quite full.With the bill presented I settled the tab and requested a copy of the menu that was presented without hesitation.Bid farewell by my server and with my bag already waiting at the door I stopped by Le Bar Lyonnais to see the Lautrec before making my way to the street.
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Stuffed and happy I reflected on the meal as I made my way to the Bus Station to catch the bus to New Jersey’s Adventure Aquarium.While some may call Le Bec Fin’s style dated and the food boring, I personally found the word’s classy and classic much more applicable.No stranger to hyper-modern cooking (Alinea) or loud uncomfortable seating in jeans and a T-shirt (Ko) for greater than $150pp I found Le Bec Fin to be a flashback to the way fine dining used to be.Sure, there will still be refined and high quality service, sourcing, seating, and food once Le Bec Fin closes its doors for good, but even then I’ll be glad to have experienced Chef Perrier’s gem while I had the chance.
For those who know me it should be obvious that my dining style leans toward the finer side – and for breakfast to the eclectic or kitsch.With that noted, my fourth day in Philadelphia would be something different – a trip to the Reading Terminal Market to experience the oft raved about Dutch Eating Place.Having eaten Amish food only twice (and in the distant past) I remembered it to be buttery and filling, down home and unpretentious, but overall natural and quite good.
Having already seen the location on my daily walks through the Market I found the Dutch Eating place without difficulty after a healthy walk from the Italian Village.Arriving only 20 minutes after opening I found a cozy counter spot next to a couple of Pittsburgh natives already indulging on scrapple and pancakes – for those who’ve never been, the seating is entirely counter-facing stools with a “take out” area located to the right.Greeted almost immediately by a polite young girl dressed in traditional Amish attire I was offered coffee which I declined, water was filled, and I was presented with a menu.Throughout the meal my service would be proficient and polite despite the gathering throng of awaiting diners.
Sipping my water and admittedly a little uncomfortable with being elbow to elbow with fellow diners and a line of persons waiting for a seat behind me it did not take long before my order was placed and my first dish would arrive.Never one to shy away from sweets before savories (or no savories at all) my Apple Dumpling would arrive at nearly the size of a softball and when asked whether I fancied whipped cream or heavy cream I went with tradition.Dousing the buttery cinnamon laden orb with sweet cream and taking a bite I was admittedly impressed as the buttery pie shell held up nicely to the steaming apple and cream.I always contest that I don’t eat at “down home” restaurants because I can do better at home, but in this case I’m not sure that is the case.
My second dish from the Amish would be a short stack of the blueberry pancakes.With fresh blueberries from Jersey already in the batter I watched the elder cooks ladle a huge scoop of batter from a large bucket onto the butter laden grill before turning my attention back to the dumpling.Moments later, almost too fast to have been expected, the plate would arrive with two large circumference but somewhat flat cakes topped with a mountain of fresh butter.While lacking fluffiness, the flavor of the cakes was everything I’d hoped and after a heavy pour of rich maple syrup the flavors all melded together nicely.Certainly not the best pancakes I’ve ever had – but probably the best I’ve ever had for less than $4.
Finishing up a solid breakfast and leaving a $10 including a ~40% tip I must admit that The Dutch Eating Place is a bargain to behold – quality fare, quality service, and a clever concept in such an urban environment…certainly better than New York’s attempts at a similar feel (Good Enough To Eat) and, admittedly, down home food that is probably better than I’ve made for breakfast at home in quite some time.
Making my way from The Dutch Eating Place with plans for a walk to (and around, and through) The Eastern State Penitentiary I made an additional mandatory stop – a vacation without a cupcake is frowned upon by my friends and family as it has become a sort of tradition.Having heard mixed things I stopped into Flying Monkey Patisserie where I would be greeted by a friendly young woman.Asking her what cupcake she would suggest (already planning to order the Red Velvet plus whatever she said) she stated the Red Velvet and as such I only ordered one.Paying the $3.00 with tip I have to admit I felt a little strange about the price of cupcakes these days – you could eat a whole breakfast at Dutch Eating Place for that much.
Taking a seat by the Reading Market pig for a traditional “Mike eating a Cupcake” picture I unwrapped the box and noted the cupcake was chilled – being before 9:00am in the morning I’m assuming this also meant it was made the day before.Taking a bite I was mildly impressed by the frosting – cream cheese and expectedly sweet with a tinge of sour.With a good frosting to cake ratio the cake itself just did not live up to its end of the bargain; cocoa and moist to be sure, but more dense then I’d have preferred – and cold.
When it was all said and done this would be my last visit to the Reading Terminal Market (for this trip) and all I can say is that it is without a doubt the best market of its kind that I’ve yet to visit.While not as eclectic as the San Francisco Ferry Market and not as large as Baltimore’s Lexington Market it is the kind of place where there is something for everyone – down home, organic, simple, artisan, vegetarian, carnivore, local, or tourist.
With Amis and Osteria setting the stage, Marc Vetri’s eponymous temple of contemporary Italian was “THE” destination restaurant of my visit to Philadelphia.Opened in 1998 and consistently named as one of the 40-best restaurants in the country by Gayot the intimate 40-seat space (occupying the original Le Bec Fin) serves as host to a Beard Award winning chef, wine program, and service staff…it has also been called the best Italian restaurant in America by both Alan Richman and Mario Batali.With such high praise Vetri had been number one on my “to visit” for approximately 8 months – in other words, since I dined at Per Se (although obviously there were many a great meals in between.)
Raised in Philadelphia and trained both locally and overseas Vetri’s concept is the sort you cannot help but respect – high focus on bold flavors while utilizing the very best ingredients with the “simplest techniques to convey their purity.”Combining this concept with award winning service and a menu of classics as well as seasonal updates plus an environment intended to replicate dinner at a friend’s house Vetri seemed like everything I want from my dining experience.Explaining via E-mail that I hoped to experience as many signatures as possible I was assured that this could easily be accomidated whether I attended for the Degustazione or a weekday meal.Obviously opting for the signature Friday Degustazione the expectations were high to say the very least.
Making my way up to the tiny row-house on Spruce I couldn’t help but think of Babbo or VOLT, but on making my way in the door the feel was more French Laundry – a small entry way with a rather simple hostess stand and lovely flowers.Greeted promptly and pleasantly by one of the nearly entirely female staff I was led to a small table in the main dining room.Chair and table pulled out for me I took a seat and once my water selection was confirmed the hostess returned to station as the restaurant was already filling up despite opening only 5 minutes earlier.
Greeted next by one of the 5 female servers I was offered a glass of Prosecco to welcome me – while I don’t normally consume alcohol I’d never tried Prosecco so I agreed.Dry and sweet with hints of citrus; in my opinion better than champagne I have to say it was a welcomed flavor.Greeted next by the Sommelier he explained the wine pairing and when I stated I most certainly couldn’t handle that much liquor and asked what he recommended as something that would pair best with the later courses since I planned to nurse my Prosecco he surprisingly recommended the most affordable per-glass item on the menu, a lovely Rose title Librandi, Ciro Rosato 2008 with hefty hints of strawberry, cherry, and spice.
Greeted next by my captain for the evening the menu format was explained and my requests for “mostly” classics confirmed.For those unfamiliar with the Degustazione there is only one menu with 4 sections, each section containing 3-5 options.From that list the diner is served, at the chef’s discretion, 2 Antipasti, 2 Pasti, a Secondi, a palate cleanser, and a dolci.One can substitute a cheese course for the dolci or add it on for a mere $10.Both diners are not guaranteed the same menu, but likes and dislikes are accounted for.Stating I was not opposed to any of the options I was met with a smile and left with great anticipation.
Sitting solo my neighbors decided to chat with me, an older couple celebrating their 30th wedding anniversary.Nice folks I use them as a reference with regard to the sound level at Vetri – it is quiet enough that you can hear the table next to you, but loud enough that the buzz of the restaurant can provide more than enough privacy.Browsing around the room at the lovely florals, hard woods, and yellow walls everything felt very “Vetri,” after having been to the other two restaurants.Also similar to Osteria and Amis was the fantastic service; though obviously a bit more refined at the flagship it remained humble, conversant, and formal without feeling stuffy.
Seated for approximately twenty minutes my amuse du jour would arrive – or, actually four of them.Beginning right to left my first taste of Vetri would be spicy house made Calabrese salami with hefty porky flavors well tempered by pepper, paprika, and onion.Next up, a lightly fried Zucchini fritter with a supple and aromatic interior tasting of cinnamon and cheese – crunch giving way to creamy.Skipping to the end of the platter I next sampled the Rabbit Rillet – expectedly gamey and cut with just a hint of chives and toasted bread it was good, but unmemorable compared to the rest.The final bite, a Vetri classic, would be the Foie Gras Pastrami with peach mustarda on brioche.Smooth as butter, spiced precisely like pastrami, and accented by the sweet compote – a beautiful bite that I could have certainly tolerated in greater abundance.
With amuse plate cleared the bread man (always my favorite staff member unless there is a mignardise cart) arrived and presented a plate of freshly pressed olive oil along with three styles of olives.Salty and smooth I managed to go through 2-bowls of the savory fruits paired with the warm house made breads of the evening – Semolina Focaccia and Tuscan Wheat.The first salty and dense, the second airy and mildly bitter, but both a nice pairing with the olives and oil.
Almost as if reading my mind the tasting menu proper would begin with a seasonal selection – the Squid and Artichoke Galette.Fried gently and drizzled with olive oil and lemon the dish was as much fritter as galette and the creamy texture of the artichokes balanced nicely with the succulent and slightly savory squid.A solid opening act, but undoubtedly the weakest of the evening…which says a lot for everything that would follow.
Arriving next would be the first in a succession of Vetri classics (and per many his most wonderful,) The Sweet Onion Crepe with truffled parmesan fondue and parmesan gratinee.Utilizing caramelized golden onions rolled with cheese into the form of a crepe and then sliced the round is then topped with grated parmesan and broiled.Subsequently plated onto an inverted bowl in a shallow pool of truffle accented fondue the presentation is actually quite subtle – but the flavor is anything but.Aromatic without being pungent, salty without overpowering the nuance, crispy on the exterior and smooth within – perhaps the best thing ever done with an onion outside the famous “000” at Restaurant Eve…perhaps even better.
Having sopped up every drop of fondue with the focaccia it was a surprisingly short amount of time before my next course would arrive.Potentially my most anticipated dish since Achatz’s Black Truffle Explosion the Spinach Gnocchi in Brown Butter was everything I’d hoped for and more.Having been told jokingly by a friend the day before that I should keep my hands above the plate to make sure these perfect dumplings didn’t float away my first bite awakened me to exactly what he meant – light as a cloud yet so densely packed with flavor that they did not even seem real.Made of only sieved spinach, egg, and a “spot” of cream the four balls rested unassumingly in a pool of scalded butter with shredded smoked ricotta atop yet somehow the whole was much more than the sum of its parts – the best gnocchi I’ve ever had, even if they contained none of the ingredients of traditional gnocchi at all.
Again returning a clean plate to the kitchen and again receiving my next course within ten minutes, my second pasta would prove nearly as lovely as the first.Once again featuring a restrained and simple plating, Almond Tortellini was anything but simple and restrained – as a matter of fact, its complexity given the minimalist ingredients was perhaps more impressive than the gnocchi. Packed to almost bursting the pockets of pasta were soft and smooth while the interior of risotto and creamy cheese provided a nuanced contrast.Topped with crunchy toasted almonds and lightly sauced with a reduced white truffle sauce the entirety of the plate was everything Vetri promises about ingredient purity and simplistic technique of preparation – flawless.
Not yet nearing satiety (yes, I know… I was a tad worried when I was told my main course would be arriving next – thankfully there would be a twenty minute delay and some more bread as my stomach caught up with my brain.Arriving shortly and impressively plated would be “Capretto” or Baby Goat on soft golden polenta.With crispy skin giving way to smoky grilled loin (I was told I got “the best piece” the flavor of the goat was much less meaty than the version at Komi and the skin was far less crispy – it was almost like a different animal.Pairing the mesquite grilled flavor with the buttery smooth polenta was a nice variation in texture, but overall I think I fancy a less refined approach for goat.
Having seen the cheese carte on entry I was somewhat disappointed when cheeses were selected by the staff and served on a cheese board, but with that said the selections were excellent.Served with local wildflower honey and fig marmalade plus raisin toast the board consisted of four selections in ample portion for the mere $10 supplement.Amongst the selections were Ubriaco del Piave (cow’s milk cheddar with red wine,) Pecorino Tartufo (sheeps milk with truffle shavings,) Verde Capra (Goats’ Milk Blue cheese,) and Moliterno (raw sheeps milk with black truffle.)Usually a fan of mild fromage I have to say I was most taken by the Verde Capra and its creamy texture with pungent flavor and the Moliterno with its earthy aromatics and sharp taste.
The intermezzo of the day would be a watermelon Gelee w/ Prosecco.Instructed to make sure I mixed the two layers well I did exactly that and consuming the single shot of liquid provided a taste and texture not dissimilar from a jello shot with significantly more watermelon than alcohol.
Prior to dessert proper I was offered coffee – La Colombe once again.Stating that I’d love coffee, especially if dessert was chocolate based (after Amis and Osteria I knew this to be wise,) I was assured that the dish would indeed be chocolate.Consuming three cups from an elegant French Press La Colombe once again did not fail to impress with its bold caramel high notes and thick cocoa finish.
Having noted only one chocolate dessert on the menu I knew what would be next and I was not disappointed when the signature Chocolate Polenta Souffle with Vanilla Gelato arrived.Not technically a soufflé in presentation the dessert was fantastic in smell and taste, but most interesting in texture.Utilizing Italian cornmeal in the almost “lava cake” presentation the interior was not precisely molten, but more like the interior of a soufflé while the exterior possessed a crunchy coating not unlike a canele.Paired with creamy vanilla gelato that tasted almost as if it were yogurt based this was classic “chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream” done, like everything else, simply and expertly.
Happy and impressed but still wanting more I was very happy when the mignardises arrived with another refill of coffee.Featuring a dense Chocolate torte, Pistachio brittle, Blueberry pate a fruit, Yuzu tarts, Honey Macaroon, and Tiramisu opera cakes each option was quite nicely done but the brittle and macaroon stood out most – both were among the best mignardises I’ve had since Alex or TRU.
The final treat of the evening would arrive with the hand-written bill – a take home bag, signed and painted menu, and two lemon muffins for “breakfast” – or, the walk home.Surprisingly mild the polenta based muffins were actually quite lovely and their toothsome texture bested either of the table breads by some degree.Before leaving a veritable parade of persons including the chef du cuisine, sommelier, hostess, and waitresses would stop by to ask how I enjoyed the evening – a very nice touch indeed.
When it was all said and done I made my way from the final stop on the tour of Vetri very happy but at the same time thinking that when (not if, but when) I come back I would likely not go for the Degustazione again.While a great deal at $145 for 9 courses plus Prosecco, amuses, mignardises, and take home muffins (essentially the same number of courses and gifts as The French Laundry at $240 and Per Se at $275) there is a certain kind of “plate envy” that occurs when you see a menu with 15 options that sound great and you only get 8 of them – a nagging part of me that wished I’d have offered to pay double to try everything, or to go during the week and order the grand tasting plus multiple supplements.Some may call the previous statement gluttonous…that’s okay, I’m fine with being labeled as such when every single course at three different restaurants was good to great while the service and setting was equally grand.Rumor has it Vetri will next be opening a spot in Atlantic City…I haven’t been there yet…but I bet it will be excellent.
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