August 27, 2010
5:01 PM
by: Uhockey

Osteria, Philadelphia PA

As a visitor to the City of Brotherly Love I guess I didn’t realize just how far the city itself spanned – as it turns out the walk from Carman’s Country Kitchen to the Art Museum is nearly three and a quarter miles. Happy for the morning breeze and an Ipod loaded with Interpol the walk went quickly and the museum itself (plus the Late Renoir exhibit) was exemplary…even if I didn’t run the steps Rocky-style like many other visitors. Full on culture and low on fuel I would soon turn east and march yet another mile to my lunch destination – the second Vetri establishment on my tour, Osteria.

Helmed by Jeff Michaud, a Beard Award winner who actually began his cooking career as a youngster at a pizzeria, Osteria has gathered quite a following since its opening despite being rather far from the rest of the city’s fine dining. With extensive training first at Vetri and then in Michelin Starred restaurants across Italy and especially fond of rich, bold, and rustic foods it was actually as much Jeff’s menu as Marc Vetri’s that I had enjoyed at Amis – that fact alone had me excited for my visit.

Making my way into the rustic stylized interior of Osteria I have to say it is a beautiful space. Highly polished woods, walls made of broken down boxes of wine, a vintage salumi slicer, and simplified table settings with rustic seating all lent to the feel of something vintage yet refined. Greeted by the hostess I was led to a nice table near the bar and shortly thereafter was greeted by my server, a pleasant and unobtrusive sort of fellow who filled my water and presented me with the menu.

In my traditional fashion of wanting to taste as many different dishes as possible while conserving stomach room I inquired about half orders I was assured that the pastas could be accommodated but told steadfast that half and half pizzas were generally not done. Having spoke to Shane James, service manager, via E-mail I found this strange as I was assured this was common practice and although I did not want to make a big deal of it I must note I had to insist on speaking to Mr. James when my server again refused. A friendly man both via e-mail and at the restaurant Mr. James happened to be in house and after a quick discussion I was assured that a half and half pizza could indeed be done – just not the Lombarda given the manner in which it bakes as compared to the other pizzas (due to the egg.) Misunderstanding resolved I was now presented with the arduous activity of deciding how to narrow my selection from twenty different things to a more reasonable amount.

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While weighing the pros and cons of the myriad fantastic sounding pizzas and pastas my water was refilled and I was presented with a bucolic basket made of a hollowed log. Inside the basket would be warm slices of sea salted focaccia and semolina white bread and alongside an oil can of mildly sweet and glossy olive oil. Not wanting to fill up on bread I would invariably fail in the task – while the semolina white was good, the focaccia was superb; moist, oily, and salty with a great crumb.

Orders placed I would sit back and wait while reading a few e-mails via free Wi-Fi in the connecting building. Seeing my neighboring tables enthralled in their pizzas (a family of 3 on one side and a business meeting of 4 on the other) I grew more excited by the minute. With less than 15 minutes passed my pastas would arrive first. Presented plainly yet elegantly, my first taste would be that of Corn Tortelli with Ricotta Salata. A half portion consisting of six small packets of luscious corn and cream the pasta was more tortellini that tortelli (traditionally round rings) but honestly I did not really care – paired with a simple sauce of clarified butter and shaved pecorino the dish tasted like the creamy equivalent of fresh buttered corn off the grill – a perfect summer dish for the warm weather outside as each pocket burst with dazzling flavor.

My second pasta, served simultaneously with the tortelli, would be the Chicken liver rigatoni with Cipolline onions and sage. This time appropriately titled and served in a rustic bowl the handmade rigatoni was ideally prepared with just a bit of spring in it. Utilizing ground chicken liver sweetened by melted Cipollinie onions and heavy hints of sage the sauce adhered beautifully to the pasta while grated parmesan added the slightest bit of bite. At first somewhat grainy in mouth feel the sautéed liver actually melted on the tongue with minimal mastication and the entirety of the dish was decidedly rustic, but at the same time restrained despite using such heavy hitting ingredients.

With my pasta plates mopped clean using a piece of focaccia they were cleared and my server would stop by to check in and chat – moments later he would return with a refill of my water and seconds later with what was expected to be the star of the afternoon, one of Osteria’s “classic” style pizzas. Featuring a Romanesque thin and crispy crust that was lightly charred and slightly aerated despite its thinness I was impressed by the flavor the wood burning oven imbued. Beginning with the left half as it looked the most interesting I was greeted with a rush of heat, flavor, smoke, and brine as I bit into Polpo. Utilizing wood grilled octopus atop the wood grilled crust and pairing it with sweet tomatoes, coarse red chili flakes, and smoked mozzarella the entire dish had the essence of a hearty cioppino but in the form of a Pizza. Not subtle in the least each flavor fought for the palate’s attention yet none managed to overwhelm the others – a dazzling pie to say the least and I especially loved the presentation of whole tentacles both visually and orally.

The second half of the pizza was one suggested by Shane – he said it was the best pizza in the city. Entitled Pannocchia and featuring blistered corn, grilled scallions, bufala mozzarella and black truffles it would honestly be hard to say whether this or Tacconelli’s white was the best Pizza in the city – in reality they’re both amongst the top 5 I’ve had anywhere. Underlied by the faintly woody charred crust, the flavor of the corn and scallions were perfectly paired while creamy pools of mozzarella accented with olive oil and the aroma of black truffles rose to the palate.

Finishing my pie the server stopped by to ask if I might want to see the dessert menu. Having watched table after the table order gelato I was told that it was the house specialty but having read otherwise I did indeed request the menu – as expected, the item I’d heard a trusted fellow gourmand refer to as the most “shockingly good” dessert he’d ever had was there – I ordered it along with a cup of coffee. Brought without hesitation and refilled thrice the bold flavors of Colombe proved a wonderful brew once again – enough that I’d order it again at Vetri and take 3lbs home from their Rittenhouse store the next day. Aside from the house coffee at Daniel I can’t think of a better coffee to compliment chocolate desserts.

Arriving with my first refill of coffee was my highly touted and unassuming dessert – the Polenta budino with GianduJa mousse and candied hazelnuts. Different from my previous budino experiences this version was nonetheless an absolute masterpiece. Slightly gritty in texture and topped with the characteristic flavors of sweet chocolate and hazelnut in the form of an airy mousse the delicate pudding was sweet, salty, textural, and ethereal in mouth feel. Adding a spoonful of candied Hazelnuts for added crunch and texture completed the picture and formed what is undoubtedly a member of the top 10 things I’ve eaten in 2010 and on par with Vetri’s Gnocchi as my fondest Philadelphia food memory. As an added bonus I will note that after my meal I e-mailed Shane James a thank you and he sent me a copy of the recipe.

When the meal was all said and done it turned out that Osteria’s Credit card machine was down which forced them to run each card by hand (and led to jokes about being BYO and Cash only given the current trend.) A stellar meal from start to finish aside from a small miscommunication about the half-pizza I can only say that Osteria is a formidable contender in my mind for best food memories of the year and that the budino will definitely be making an appearance at a future family get together. With Amis and Osteria now in the books the only logical thing to do would be to complete the troika that night at the flagship.

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Italian, Octopus, Osteria, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pizza, Vacation, Vetri

August 27, 2010
11:50 AM
by: Uhockey

Carman’s Country Kitchen, Philadelphia PA

Call me crazy – as much as I love fine dining breakfast kitsch will always hold a special place in my heart (and belly.) Having dined at some of America’s greats – Dottie’s True Blue, Griddle Café, Bongo Room, Miss Shirley’s, and Pamela’s to name few – I knew that Carman’s Country Kitchen was a must on my visit to Philadelphia. With lunch and dinner plans starring Marc Vetri and still sated from Modo Mio the previous evening I knew daytime snacking would be light and a solid breakfast would hold me the six hours to lunch – per usual I woke early and hit the ground running, arriving at the Country Kitchen before they even opened the doors.

With the truck-table parked outside I took a seat on the hitch for only a moment before the front of house man would open the door and say “she ain’t ready yet, but you can come in and take a seat and have some coffee or something.” Making my way into the restaurant the server introduced himself by name and asked for mine – he’d call me Mike for the duration of my meal. Browsing around the small diner I have to admit the décor is not exactly G-Rated, but it certainly is hilarious – pigs and tea pots with enormous genitals, pictures from God knows where, and the famous “Put the C*nt back in Country” signage.

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Sipping my coffee – dark and solid, a bit acidic but not “bad,” I chatted with the server about what I was doing in town, the restaurant, and Philly in general – he had a lot of suggestions for interesting things to see and do. Around 8am Carman herself would come in through the back door with an enormous grocery bag full of ingredients that she picked up on her way to work – things to “experiment with for next week’s menu.” Browsing the big board I made my selection (remember, only 4 mains and 4 sides are available) and Carman introduced herself and conversed boisterously from the back kitchen while preparing my food.

Offered a selection of newspapers, magazines, and other assorted reading materials I browsed the sports section while we discussed the restaurant’s history and other spots Carman recommended in the city. Never short on words or opinions Carman held up her end of the conversation admirably with lots of anecdote – for a solo diner who would spend the duration of his meal at Carman’s as the only person in house it was actually very interesting. After 20 minutes and a couple cups of coffee my plate would arrive along with a dispenser of thick, rich, maple syrup.

Entitled Buttermilk Pancakes with White Figs, Dark Chocolate, Ginger, Ground Almonds, and Anise I tasted a bite solo and then added syrup. At $14 and cash only for an Aunt Jemima based cake I have to admit the price seemed a bit steep for the portion size, but what was lacking in size was more than made up for by flavor. Impressively well balanced I was shocked by the sweetness of the figs and the manner in which they were balanced by the bitter dark chocolate and aromatic spices of the fresh ginger and Anise. Well cooked and fluffy the pancakes were stellar examples as well – whatever Carman is doing to the base mix I need to figure out.

Finishing my pancakes and settling the tab I chatted with my hosts some more – parking cop lore, stories of the best places to go drinking in Philly, and her theory on why the Phillies were slumping all came to the table – I was also given a business card and told the menu would be changing the next day if I wanted to make a reservation because “it gets busy early on Saturdays.” With food and service so impressive I have no doubt it should.

Posted in Breakfast, Carman's Country Kitchen, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Pancakes, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Vacation

August 26, 2010
11:15 PM
by: Uhockey

Tacconelli’s Pizzeria and Modo Mio, Philadelphia PA

Dinner on the second day of my visit to Philadelphia would see me doing something quite uncharacteristic – deferring to the tastes of another – and a stranger at that. A man familiar to the ranks of Chowhound and (as it turns out) more fine dining Meccas than anyone I know – delucacheesemonger – had offered to meet up with me for a meal…or two. Volunteering his car, his company, his intelligence, and (most importantly) his wit the decision was made to visit two spots on his recommendation – Tacconelli’s Pizzeria and Modo Mio. For the sake of full disclosure I will note that Mr. cheesemonger was a well known entity to both restaurants and as such the service may have been skewed in our favor…but from the looks of things I’m rather certain both restaurants treat everyone like a VIP.

With reservations (mandatory at both stops, one to reserve the dough and the other for a seat) made by my companion for 6 and 8 I arrived early – as always – and Mr. cheesemonger welcomed me as though we’d known each other for ages. Chatting about food, life, medicine, travel, and any number of other topics time passed quickly and we made our way to the car for the short drive to Somerset Street – home of what many call one of America’s 10 best Pizzas.
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Arriving moments before our reservation time I was honestly surprised at the unassuming nature of the location – small, homey, wooden booths, false hardwood floors, paper plates, Styrofoam cups – what wasn’t surprising was the warm welcome…Tacconelli’s is a place where everyone is treated like a regular and all the regulars are treated like best friends. A one man, one oven operation utilizing recipes and an oven dating back to World War II Tacconelli’s keeps it simple – patrons must call in advance to reserve dough and that dough is utilized to make one size of pizza with a limited number of toppings. Payment is cash only, hours are ~4pm to ~9pm 5 days a week, and alcohol is BYO. 1/2 and 1/2 pizzas are allowed – mix n’ match as you like. Seated we were poured water and given menus – the cheesemonger knew what he wanted on his half and after a moment I knew what I wanted on mine.
Seated and chatting time went quickly – but even so it was hard not to be jealous of each and every sublime looking pie coming from the kitchen…Tacconelli’s should sell tickets just to smell the tomato and garlic laden air. Approximately 40 minutes after entering Tacconelli’s our pie would arrive – one half “White” with salt, black pepper, cheese, garlic, whole tomatoes, and spinach and the other a “Regular” pie with cheese, sauce, and prosciutto. Featuring a cracker crunchy semolina base with just a bit of char the crust was flawless – not bubbly or chewy, but not “too hard” either – just flawless. The cheesemonger made an interesting analogy I’ll not repeat, but it will stick in my mind on how to judge a crust from here on out.
Folding a piece and taking a bite I was wowed by the sweetness of the sauce and the mild saltiness of the pork – neither were overwhelming, both shined as though they were born to go together. Devouring a second piece I managed to burn the roof of my mouth – a small price to pay. Graciously offering up a slice (and then a second) of the other half I have to admit that as good as the sauce was and as much as I fancy my ability to order, my companion’s experience paid off – the “white” pie was even better than mine. Amply garlic laden but tempered elegantly by the fresh tomatoes and creamy mozzarella the fusion of ingredients was simplicity at its best – a magnificent pie that undoubtedly constitutes the best non-designer pizza I’ve ever tasted.
Settling the modest tab (after learning the rules of liar’s poker) and being bid farewell by our server I felt like I was just hitting stride for a night full of fantastic dining. Rustic and low key Tacconelli’s is one of those hidden gems that a tourist without a car could never get to – a loss for them, but good news for the locals – keep it a secret, else face the issues now surrounding Great Lake in Chicago.
Making our way to the car our next stop would be Modo Mio – with the cheesemonger telling me of his myriad previous experiences at the restaurant I rather expected a warm welcome, but what we got when we arrived was more than I’d have ever guessed – servers stopping by to say hello while we waited for a table, the hostess stopping for small talk…and their warmness extended past my companion to myself – even before the meal Modo Mio felt like a family gathering. Telling the cheesemonger that they had a special surprise for him “fresh from the market” we waited only moments before being led to our table at the center of the bustling dining room.
A small space with an impossibly small kitchen for the impressive menu size, Chef/Owner Peter McAndrews’ restaurant definitely delivers on their website promise of “we hope that you will visit and indulge your passion for food and friendship. We are intimate and loud at times, but we have a great time!” Energetic but not deafening, low-lit but not cliché “dark-romantic,” tight but not cramped, and plain but not boring…the feel was like Babbo but less loud or Vetri but less formal. Before getting deep into the review I will note that the small space did have a couple drawbacks – the first being nearly elbow to elbow with your fellow diners…the second, well, we’ll get to that later.
Re-greeted by our server (we talked outside before seating) two small bites and one large one would arrive even before the menus – amongst the amuses would be two bruschetta – one a grilled rustic bread with snails, aged provolone, lemon caper butter and the other with crispy pulled goat, black cherries, and aged balsamic. Featuring subtle and crispy bread brushed with olive oil and lightly charred I personally loved both options – the briny snails tempered by the sharp provolone and lemon caper butter while the gamey goat was brought to a peak by the combination of sweet cherry and sharp balsamic vinegar.
The second dish to arrive would be a complimentary surprise for the cheesemonger. A fan of tripe, and particularly Modo Mio’s previous menu version, he had apparently noted that on his previous visit their version was a tad pedestrian and as such this time the chef had gone out of his way to make amends. Served in a large bowl and easily big enough for 2 (and as it turned out a 3rd,) Lamb Tripe and cabbage stew with parsley, olive oil, basil plus grilled Tellagio bread was my first experience with Lamb Tripe, but ideally not my last. Flawlessly cooked the offal was minimally gamey and mildly pork-like in flavor. Cut into thin strips the preparation was raw and rustic with the flavors reminding me of my Grandmother’s Hungarian Style Stuffed Cabbage. With my companion appropriately impressed but already starting to feel full we offered a sample of the dish to our neighbors and they graciously accepted. When the biggest complaint about a dish is that it is “too much good food” and “now I have to come up with a different antipasti to try” that is saying something.
With menus finally delivered, along with a house made crusty salted semolina bread served with a clean yet grassy olive oil and a dollop of fresh Ricotta, I was stunned by the variety of selections and the $33 for four courses menu turista. Settling quickly on an antipasti and pasta I asked my server which secondi he recommended and given his lack of hesitation I went with his suggestion. Already getting somewhat full the cheesemonger went with 2 antipasti, no pasta, and a secondi…it would still prove to be too much food; luckily he was dining with a great cleanup man.
Before getting into the meal I will note that the service was resoundingly friendly, efficient, and informative – not just to our table, but to everyone around us. Speaking fondly of a recent visit to Italy and how it influenced the menu there was a passion in everyone’s voice – from the kitchen to the servers the staff itself seemed the closest knit I’ve seen outside of (perhaps) Alinea. I will also note here a rather serious service gaff that occurred when the bread lady stumbled while carrying ~10 plates of olive oil and ricotta across the restaurant – one of those plates ended up on my back with the viscous fluid rolling down my spine and soaking my shirt while staining my pants. Exceptionally apologetic and offering everything from a free meal to overnight dry cleaning to hints on how to get the stain out myself I was shocked by the degree of attention and stated I’d gladly take care of it myself – really, it was the apology that made all the difference…especially after “the Spiaggia incident,” and really, with as good as the rest of the meal would prove to be for such a bargain basement price I’d have been embarrassed to let them comp the bill; mistakes happen and the rest of the service was absolutely exemplary.
Beginning the meal proper would be my “Polpo” with grilled octopus, spicy chickpeas, raisins, almonds, lemon, arugula. A salad in presentation but with warm grilled octopus setting the temperature somewhere around that of the room this would be the first many agrodolce presentations from Chef McAndrews. A hearty balance of crunchy and smooth, spicy and acidic, sweet and sour there were no wasted elements and the balance was quite impressive. At 1/2 the price of Amada’s Octopus there was more here and it was vastly superior in taste and texture.
The cheesemonger’s first course would’ve been my choice had he not ordered it. Entitled “Crocante” with prosciutto wrapped chicken livers, cherries, gorgonzola, and sweet red wine reduction this dish was perhaps my favorite of the evening. Lightly fried pancetta encompassing mild chicken liver was served over warm artichokes and chopped cherries tossed with a creamy gorgonzola. Topping the whole amalgam with a thick and aromatic red wine reduction and spices lent an almost haute-Marsala flavor to the whole dish – it was beautiful.
Waiting a short while and chatting about my new friend’s significant foreign travel I was again impressed by how well I could hear and be heard without yelling – unlike Scarpetta and Babbo I think the lack of music definitely helps. Arriving shortly would be my pasta and his second antipasti…and as it turns out I’d end up eating most of both dishes as he was already starting to get full. Beginning first with my “must order” dish at any Italian restaurant, gnocchi, Modo Mio’s option featured classic ricotta dumplings topped with crab, plum tomatoes, capers, and cream. Topped nicely with sweet crab and sweeter tomatoes in a surprisingly lightly brined sauce the gnocchi themselves were unfortunately not terrible memorable. Dense and flavorful, but not the light dumplings I’ve come to expect.
Faring better amongst the second courses would be “Lingue” with braised calf’s tongue, pizziola, portabello, plum tomato, and capers. Inspired by the Italy trip our server stated that the concept here was to “introduce” diners to tongue by creating a pizza-esque flavor without the dough. Delicate and thinly shaved the protein was surprisingly light while it was actually the mushrooms that lent heft to the dish. With ample notes of basil, tomato, olive, caper, and cheese I can say their attempt to replicate a pizza flavor was spot on and I enjoyed the dish much more than I had expected.
Completely stuffed my cohort stated he would only have “a bite” of the main courses – had I known that I would have just had him order the two I was trying to decide between. True to his word when his Braised Lamb Shank with Rosemary, Lemon, Vin Cotto arrived he took a bite, smiled and said “wonderful” before pushing it my way. Fatty and succulent the lamb literally fell off the bone and melted in the mouth – simply paired with gentle spices and lemon the agrodolce preparation was plated atop heated red wine and worked just like the lamb tripe…warm, rustic, hearty, and wonderful.
My secondi selection (trumping the duck on our server’s suggestion) would be “Animelle” with veal sweetbreads, artichoke, pancetta, lemon, and thyme. Bearing in mind the fact that I’d already eaten substantially during the day and was now eating for two I was lucky this was so good – it was worth being “stuffed” for. Ample in portion, crispy on the surface and creamy within the offal was paired inspiringly with crispy artichokes – similar in texture yet vegetal in composition. Topped with chopped pancetta and a lightly lemon accented olive oil the entire plate came together nicely and ranks amongst my favorite dishes in Philadelphia – an assessment that Phillymag also seems to agree with.
Moving towards dessert our server again appeared to tell us the specials – with both of us quite full but dessert included in the menu turista we listened and ordered…only to have the server provide us a third dessert that the kitchen was especially proud of on the house. Ever giving and pleasant we were also offered shots of Sambuca (a first for me) and a glass each of Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999 – warm, pleasant, and floral even to my naïve nose.
Starting first with the cheesemonger’s dessert option – a simple and rustic spiced pear tart with Almond Ice Cream. A free form galette with a buttery crust and high notes of cinnamon, brown sugar, and clove accenting the sweet pears – lovely, light, and complimented nicely by the aromatic ice cream.
My option would be the Chocolate Budino with hand whipped cream and strawberries. Somewhat drier than a traditional Budino the overall texture of the dish was actually somewhere between a pudding and a soufflé. Light and small like the tart the budino was a nice end to the meal, though not extremely memorable.
Our third dessert and the last taste of the evening would be Gorgonzola Panna Cotta, White Figs, Honey – it would also be (by far) the best dessert of the night. Like a composed cheese plate arranged into a stunning cheesecake the panna cotta would prove to be impossibly light despite its hefty cheese notes while the pungency and bite of the aged cheese was tempered beautifully by the lavender accented honey and sweet poached figs.
Bordering on a genuine food coma at this point we were asked if there is anything else we’d like and while I’m sure I would have liked to try almost everything on the menu we decided to take a rain check. Settling the tab – a mere $45/pp with a hefty tip – we bid farewell to the staff and I again received apology from the servers for the spill who offered to have me back the following evening at no charge. Thanking them again but declining the offer we made our way to the street and (thankfully) my friend volunteered to drive me back to my B&B.
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Looking back on my visit to (and receipts from) Philadelphia Modo Mio would invariably be my cheapest lunch or dinner – less than 1/2 the price of Le Bec Fin and less than 1/3 the price of Vetri…it was also cheaper than recent Italian jaunts in New York, Las Angeles, and Columbus. While not every plate was spot on, the dishes that did excel did so to an incredible degree and not a single flavor fell short of at least being good. Speaking with fellow diners (and waiters) at Zahav, Vetri, Supper, and Le Bec Fin I can’t say I was surprised by the fondness with which people speak of Modo Mio – it truly is a special place that I was lucky to enjoy with a fantastic fellow gourmand.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Italian, Modo Mio, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pizza, Pork, Sweetbreads, Tacconelli's, Tasting Menu, Vacation

August 26, 2010
3:15 PM
by: Uhockey

Lacroix, Philadelphia PA

Despite many people telling me it was worth it, that it was “different” from other buffets, that I’d have plenty of time to get to my plane I just couldn’t justify making reservations for one at Lacroix’s luxurious Sunday Brunch. Try as I might I’ve never been enamored by buffets and relying on public transport to get me to the airport I simply couldn’t go against my instincts. With that fact noted, however, I had heard some fantastic things about new Chef Jason Cichonski’s menu approach and I given the setting and menu I knew I owed it to myself to give Lacroix a try…with dinner’s already booked solid for my trip I figured a lunch would suffice.

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Arriving at Rittenhouse Square dressed casually around 11:15 and making my way into the lavish hotel I was treated as a valued guest – doors held, all “sir, please, and thank you,” a liaison even offering to walk me to the restaurant. Chatting as we walked up a single flight of stairs I was told a little bit about the hotel and restaurant and assured it was “one of the best in town.” Arriving at the entrance to Lacroix I was introduced to the Maitre D’ and led to a lovely table along the lower rim of the dining area. Floor to ceiling windows, marble pillars, white tablecloths and plush velvet chairs I was next presented with a menu and asked if I’d like the drapes up or down – opting for up the room was flooded with fresh sunshine and water was filled.

Greeted next by my server, a pleasant young man with great knowledge of the cuisine and the local area, I was told lunch was just starting while breakfast was just ending and I was asked which menu I wanted to see. Jokingly I stated “how about both – and dinner too…” little did I know he would say “certainly” and return with all three menus in a matter of minutes. Making sure that all three menus could be prepared I received an “absolutely” and was left to decide as if this request was somehow normal or expected. Thrilled I took to browsing the options and identified no less than 10 things that sounded wonderful.

Realizing that I had aggressive dinner plans and afternoon snacks already planned I decided to temper my ordering and suffice for one appetizer, one entrée, and one dessert – approving of my selections, particularly the appetizer, my waiter took note that I was planning to attend the Phillies game at 1:00 and assured me that wouldn’t be a problem. Disappearing for only moments he would return quickly with a bread basket featuring three warm breads paired with a clean and mellow butter. Rosemary Pepper Ciabatta, Sourdough, and 9-Grain – all excellent, but all merely tasted in order to save room.

Arriving first amongst my ordered courses would be a dish my waiter described as “The best Foie Gras I’ve ever had.” While I can’t say I felt quite so strongly, Foie Gras Torchon with Warm Banana Bread, Shaved Carrot Salad, Peanuts did deliver a fantastic impact for its $14 price tag. A ~3oz torchon, thick and unctuous (as opposed to airy and creamy like that of Keller) served atop piping hot moist banana bread the liver literally melted in the mouth. Adding texture would be a lightly vinegar seasoned salad of carrots and spiced peanuts – the whole dish worked very nicely and had a pleasant degree of East meets West that seemed to highlight much of Cichonski’s repertoire.

My main course, ordered from the dinner menu, would be Hudson Valley Duck Pastrami with Swiss Chard and Grilled Brulee Peaches. Ample in portion and rippled with a gratuitous layer of fat and crispy skin the flavor of the bird itself was superb. Not overly salted but instead accented with hints of paprika, coriander, sugar, and garlic the “pastrami” influence was certainly notable and an excellent juxtaposition to the acidity of the lightly seasoned salad and grilled peach with a crackling layer of sugar. My reigning favorite form of protein the duck was exemplary – on par with the best I’ve had.

Having heard that Lacroix makes an excellent soufflé from a local Philadelphia epicure I inquired about it when I was originally offered the various menus. Given the time it takes to prepare a proper soufflé my waiter had to inquire with the kitchen – thankfully they said it would be no problem and they’d start it early so as not to delay my departure for the game. Described as an “Angel Souffle” and adorned with swirls of silver and gold the dish would arrive piping hot and standing tall and proud. A Peppermint Dark Chocolate Souffle with Coconut Anglaise and milk chocolate tapioca I first pierced the cloud of chocolate and was met by a gush of aromatic chocolate. Taking a bite the hints of mint were appreciable but not overwhelming as the creamy dish melted in the mouth. Adding the shot glass of Coconut Anglaise and creamy chocolate tapioca I was delighted as the soufflé remained standing tall – no deflation at all and maintaining its composure throughout consumption.

With my meal completed and plenty of time to catch the SEPTA to the stadium I sat and chatted with my server for a while about the Rittenhouse area and my other dining plans for the trip – a Philadelphia native he was friendly and informative despite his young age. Declining coffee I was brought the bill along with a plate of candied orange peel, dried cranberries, and candied almonds as well as a box of two house-made chocolates that I would save for the game – chocolate ganache and caramel, both attractive and tasty.

Settling the tab and making my way to the door I was asked if I needed directions to the nearest SEPTA and upon declining I was bid farewell by my server, the hostess, and on the way out of the hotel the concierge who walked me to the restaurant even asked how I liked the meal. Making it to the game in plenty of time (even if the Phillies didn’t seem interested in playing) I looked back on meal and even now I think it may have been the most underrated meal of my trip. A beautiful setting, fantastic food, and friendly professional service is something that all restaurants should aspire to – and something that LaCroix pulls off seemingly effortlessly. Next time I’m in Philadelphia I’m going to the brunch, no doubt.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Lacroix, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Rittenhouse, Souffle, Vacation

August 26, 2010
11:43 AM
by: Uhockey

Sam’s Morning Glory Diner, Beiler’s Bakery, Millers Twist, Philadelphia PA

I have to admit Sam’s Morning Glory Diner was not on my “must visit” list when I originally planned my trip to Philadelphia, mostly because I’d heard seating was incredibly limited and waits could top 2 hours. Waking up the day after Amada’s pig roast and heading north while chatting with my Aunt I passed the “Singing Fountain” and decided to alter my path from the previous day…..as it turns out the path would lead me right past the door of Sam’s and upon looking at the menu and seeing no wait I decided to stop in.

Stating that they “pride themselves on creating innovative menu items from the best of our local bounty” and listing the local markets they support (The Italian Market and Reading Terminal Market specifically) I have to say I liked the feel of Sam’s – it reminded me of a cleaner and less hipster Dottie’s True Blue. Greeted by a friendly young woman at the door and told to sit wherever I like I additionally received a smile and greetings from the pierced and inked young lady at the griddle who would prove quite handy at cooking, conversing, and singing along with the excellent overhead soundtrack featuring U2, Interpol, Radiohead, and more.

Seated at a cozy table I was presented with the standard menu and the list of daily specials and my coffee was quickly filled. A hefty and dark brew served with cream and all sorts of sweeteners I fixed the coffee to my liking and was thrilled by the fact that Sam’s allows you to fill your own (and to take a cup for the road.) Browsing the menu I identified three items I wanted to try but was unfortunately told that half orders could not be accomidated. Settling on the choice that sounded most unique I waited while watching others receive their Monkey French Toast, enormous fresh biscuits, and omelettes.

Approximately 20 minutes passed before my order would arrive, and arrive it did in grand fashion. Titled Homemade Cornbread French Toast the dish featured “Fresh Orange Zest in our Rich French Toast Batter, topped with Sliced Strawberries and served with Whipped Cream and Maple Syrup” and it was every bit as good as it sounded. Three thick slices, crispy on the outside and custardesque within the toast had the expected cornmeal texture but lacked the grainy texture of sub-par cornbread and the orange essence was a welcomed touch. Adding butter and syrup (alas, not pure maple) created a delectable pairing with the fresh berries and whipped cream and the entirety of the dish was surprisingly light, refreshing, and tasty at a mere $9.

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Finishing up my breakfast and getting another cup of coffee to go I settled the modest tab and was bid farewell by both cook and server. A friendly place with affordable (and excellent) food I must say I liked Sam’s a lot and I understand the long weekend waits. That said, a better quality syrup and a bit more leniency on half orders is something all breakfast spots need to consider – some people don’t just want a big homogenous plate….I really wanted to try that Monkey French Toast.

Not full but with lunch and two dinners already planned on each side the Phillies/Astros businessman’s special at Citizens Bank Park I figured the next stop on my sightseeing and eating agenda would be the Philadelphia Free Library and some of the downtown outdoor sculptures (Love and the Claus Oldenburg Clothespin) before swinging by the Reading Terminal Market for some game time snacks. Walking quickly (the blisters had not yet formed on my feet at this point) and realizing the library would not open until 9:30 I instead opted to head to Reading first and found myself standing before the impressive selection of Beiler’s Bakery shortly after the market opened its doors.

With at least 100 options available I asked the small man dressed in traditional Amish attire what he’d recommend for a true Beiler’s experience and he directed me to no less than four items that he said were “best you’ll ever taste.” Not wanting something as simple as a donut and knowing that I’d be eating quite heartily throughout the day I opted to select two of the four, paid the modest fee of $4 cash and made my on to other stands after stopping to take some pictures of my purchases.

Although some time (plus a lunch and a pretzel) passed between my purchase and the consumption of Beiler’s products in the left field bleachers during the 5th inning I will note that both items were excellent. Beginning first with the Pumpkin Whoopie Pie I loved the way the soft cake blended with the extra creamy filling – like a portable pumpkin pie with whipped cream, heavily accented with cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. The second item, the very definition of Pennsylvania Amish Cooking would be Shoofly pie – essentially a gooey molasses and brown sugar pie with a texture somewhere between pecan pie without the nuts and coffeecake with more moisture. Profoundly sweet and topped with a crumbly butter topping there was nothing elegant or reserved about this pie – it was down home, simple, and delicious.

My second stop in the market on this Thursday would be another Amish spot – this time Miller’s Twist. Having already stowed my Beiler’s items for game time and assuming a pretzel would be best eaten hot I asked the young clerk what she recommended, the Pretzel sticks or the big twist and she suggested the twist. Paying the modest fee and watching the other employees assemble pretzels rapidly as more people arrived to place orders (and here I was thinking I was the only one who’d be eating a pretzel at 8:30a,) I snapped a picture and made my way to the street to continue my walk.

Warm, buttery, somewhat sweet and not overly salty the Twist was everything I’d read and more – pretzel perfection. Sure there are any number of places in Philly offering 20 pretzels for $5 and I admittedly did not try any of those – but at only $1.85 for something as good as Miller’s Twist I really don’t feel the need to skimp…especially when compared to the $5 over salted Stadium Pretzels offered in most US cities.

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Reading Terminal Market, Sam's Morning Glory Diner, Vacation

August 25, 2010
11:48 PM
by: Uhockey

Capogiro and Amada, Philadelphia PA

I’ll admit I spoiled the surprise – I saw Capogiro gelato at a small shop in Pittsburgh back in June and had to order it during my visit. Fresh, creamy, intense, and intriguing in both sourcing and flavors I said at that time that it was the best gelato I’d ever had outside of the Batali Empire. Making my first trip in twelve years to Philadelphia, home of four Capogiro stores I knew I’d have to make the trek at least once – and after a long day of wandering the city in the heat I decided to stop in for a look, some tastes, and perhaps a small cup.

Without going into extensive detail about the quality of sourcing and dedication to quality (really, they make everything in store each day so the options at one store may differ from the other less than 2 miles away) I will note that I totally abused the tasting privilege and enjoyed well over 10 samples prior to settling on the order I knew I was bound to place walking in the door. Peach, Blueberry, Bananas Foster, Marshmallow, Pistachio Siciliano, Dulce de Leche, Crème Fraîche, Malted Chocolate, and English Sea Salt all greeted the tongue a blend of sweet and salty, creamy and delicate – all could have justified blowing off dinner and ordering cup after cup. Paying the $4.78 for a small I made my way to the street to indulge.

Half Cioccolato Scuro and half Nutella, first sampled solo and then swirled into a delectable amalgam – perfection defined. Eating dinner later with a fellow gourmand he stated he didn’t really like Capogiro because the texture reminded him more of pudding than gelato – interestingly that was exactly what I loved…but I wouldn’t say pudding, more an airy mousse or whipped cream, but ice cold. It is with much regret that I didn’t return to Capogiro for more tastes prior to my departure, but as per all my travels the goal is variety of locations as much as variety of flavors…besides, there is always next time.

Moving onward and visiting the entirety of Independence National Historic Park and the Poe House over the next few hours I slowly progressed towards the site of dinner – a 7:00pm reservation for eight at Jose Garces’ flagship Amada for the whole roast suckling pig. An Iron Chef Winner, Beard Award Winner, Cookbook Author, and self proclaimed “master of Latin cuisine,” the “Latin Emeril” really needs no introduction. After gaining his footing in the Starr empire the Chicago native has quickly risen through the culinary ranks beginning first with Amada in 2005 and subsequently opening four more restaurants in Philadelphia, one in Chicago, and a new “Trading Company” that I’d visit later during my trip. Given his notoriety and the fact that eight of us would be meeting for the pig I will fully admit the bar was set high for this meal.

Proposed by myself and organized, mostly, by a Philly local we were scheduled for the whole Roast Pig with the suggestion of additional Tapas while our pig was prepared per the restaurant and as is my custom I arrived 30 minutes early to find two members of the party at already at the bar. Ordering a delightful “Tinto” Sangria consisting of Spiced Red Wine, Orange, Apple, and Cinnamon we sat and chatted until the others filtered in – Ironically it would be the person who set up the party who would arrive last – nearly 15 minutes late.

When all party members were accounted for we were led to a large table on a platform in the middle of the main dining room – raised approximately a foot above the rest of the tables and featuring backless benches that were hard as a rock I’ll note that the combination was somewhat uncomfortable – both the seats and the stares. While not “barstools at Momofuku Ko” uncomfortable, it was close, and the noise level was equally loud. Browsing around the restaurant it is obvious that Amada is the sort of place to go in order to be seen, but overall it did not feel contrived, just busy. Were I to return I’d have personally requested a seat closer to the open kitchen so that I could watch the chefs at work.

Greeted quickly by our server we were told it would take some time for the pig to be finished in the oven and he suggested we order some Tapas to pass the time. Helpful and courteous albeit overworked as he appeared to be covering at least 8 tables he explained portion sizes and suggested that each tapas plate would offer a taste for approximately four people. After some discussion the table opted for two orders of four different tapas so each of us could get a taste. With plates rolling out rather quickly from the kitchen we received items rather quickly at first and then waited nearly 45 minutes before the pig would arrive. While some members of our party were bitter and stewing about this delay, I personally did not understand the gripe as it allowed time to digest and chat – water remained full and our waiter checked in on us with status updates at least thrice during that time.

Beginning the meal proper would be Amada’s “house bread,” a Crispy Flatbread with Tuna and Caper spread. Tasty and light with plenty of flavor I was happy they opted against serving a puffy and filling bread like many tapas restaurants do in order to fill the guest up – as it turns out we were to get PLENTY of food, anyhow.

For our tapas, the first option was not something I’d have ordered if left to my own devices, but offal is in and the nightly special was Blood Sausage. Substantially salty and chunky compared to my previous experience with blood sausage this was the sort of dish where a little went a very long way. Drizzled with honey to temper the salinity the small portion size seemed somewhat expensive for the quality, but honestly I can’t imagine being able to eat much more than the small portion I was allotted. In the future I’ll stick to the creamy consistency of French Boudin Noir over the Spanish Morcilla.

Our second tapas selection would be PULPO A LA GALLEGA – Spanish Octopus. Served on a wooden round the grilled octopus was nicely salted and accented with Paprika, Cumin, and Garlic and paired with thinly sliced fingerling potatoes that added a crispy contrast to the smooth and chewy cephalopod. Pricey given the high carb to protein ratio I think we each got two small bites of octopi and those bites were good, but nothing transcendent.

Dish three would be an item I’d targeted before even making reservations and it would turn out to be the best small plate in terms of quality, uniqueness, and price per bite; MADRE E HIJO – Chicken Breast with Fried Egg, Mojama & Truffles. Expecting fantastic things given my experience with Batali’s similar dish at Casa Mono (with Duck egg, sans chicken) I must say I was a bit let down. While the egg was appropriately creamy and the aromatics of the truffle quite profound, the minimal shaving of grated Mojama was utterly imperceptible over the savory chicken. A good dish to be sure, but not as good as I’d hoped.

Dish four was a flop despite being highly touted by one of my dining partners. ALMEJAS CON CHORIZO – Clams & Chorizo would pair infinitesimal clams with thin slices of spicy pork in a thin broth of onions, chives, garlic, and what I believe tasted of nutmeg. Flavorless and small the edible portion of the clams lent little to the dish and while the broth was decent (and appropriately served with bread to soak up the juices) the chorizo was largely overpowered by the spices. For me, the highlight of the dish was actually the broth on the bread – though I tried not to eat too much for fear of filling up.

After the last of our tapas arrived there was a wait as previously noted. While some members of our party felt this entirely inappropriate (to the point where someone demanded to speak to the manager) I will note that it was explained and we were not abandoned – the server checked in regularly to be sure drinks were filled and plates were cleared. After the delay we saw the pig emerge from the oven and moments later it was wheeled tableside where it would be deftly carved by one of the chefs who stated he’d performed the deed over 500 times. Starting with the standard cuts we were asked if we wanted more exotic pieces such as ears, snout, cheeks, and tail and stating we did indeed want these things the carving commenced. As the sides were arriving simultaneous with the pig carving I will admit I looked away multiple times and never saw where the exotic cuts were placed – this would again be a sore subject at our table as some members seemed to feel others were hoarding the unique items, but honestly I’m pretty sure everything was just mixed in – I know I had one cheek and some ribs, but I never did see snout, trotter, or tail.

With the COCHINILLO ASADO dispersed amongst four large plates we each forked ample portions onto our plates and dug in. Intensely porky and wonderfully salted I can definitely say the pig was worth the visit, the wait, and the expense…much more so than any of the tapas. Impossibly crisp skin pre-brined and roasted to perfection the key was to match skin with muscle in order to balance salinity and get a balanced bite. Focusing larger on the leaner cuts, particularly the loin, as well as the ribs I will note I ate a lot of the pork and despite my propensity for multi-course meals I found the pig intriguing in the way each bite provided a novel experience, my only wish would be that the cuts would have been separated better on the board so that I knew what I was eating in order to take mental notes.

In discussing the sides I will note that the Herb Roasted Fingerlings were rather standard potatoes – well cooked, somewhat salty and well spiced – I ate a few but really felt no need to fill up on starch. Similarly the GARBANZOS CON ESPINACAS – Chickpeas & Spinach were rather uninspiring aside from the slightly overcooked layer on top – crispy like a corn-nut and nicely balanced with tomato, spinach, and a hefty shake of paprika.

More impressive amongst the side dishes were the Rosemary White Beans – creamy and well cooked with ample notes of parsley, rosemary, and butter and the incredible CALÇOTS CON SALBITXADA – Grilled Green Onions which were seared to a char and served with chili pepper spiked garlic butter. Receiving only one plate of the onions I actually requested a second which I consumed almost entirely on my own as the rest of the table was getting full.

Watching others slow their eating I continued to pick at the pork, onions, and crispy chick peas for a while chatting with those seated closest to me about their jobs, families, and the city of Philadelphia. It was around this time that I suddenly realized other members of the table were getting testy. Perhaps it was the long drive, perhaps the long wait, or perhaps something else but regardless there was at first a scowl, then audible complaints about the service. Finished with the pork our server arrived to clear plates and to pack up the leftovers – a good 4lbs of pork and at least 4 cups of garbanzo beans. Returning to the table with the leftover protein packed in only two boxes this was another source of controversy and complaint even though I volunteered to talk to the server about getting things repacked – it was at this point that someone decided to invoke the manager.

With the manager present and grievances apparently aired we were asked if we wanted dessert or coffee and the most vocal member of the table opted to speak for us all and say no until I piped up and suggested we could at least take a look at the menu. With menus delivered and leftovers taken to the kitchen for re-boxing (4 people wanted to take some home, including, oddly, the people who seemed least pleased with the meal) a few ordered coffee (GTC Reserva, currently on brew in my home) and cappuccino while myself and another diner opted to split a dessert, the delectable PASTEL CON ESCABECHE – Warm Brown Butter Cake, Peach Escabeche, and Almond Ice Cream. Served as a dense cylinder with ample notes of cinnamon and butter the cake paired quite nicely with the sautéed peaches and fragrant ice cream.

Arriving with the check would be a second dessert, two small almond cookies that tasted somewhat akin to a fortune cookie – light, whimsical, and a nice touch. Splitting the bill evenly (with 20% tip already included) the total came out to approximately $70 per diner, a deal given the amount of food and duration of the meal, even if not the highest quality of comfortable seating. Bidding each other farewell some people disappeared quite quickly while others hung around to chat out front or to visit the restroom. With two of my fellow diners offering a ride back to my B&B I graciously accepted and decided to leave after 5 minutes of waiting for the hostess to get me a copy of the menu…that would be my only service complaint of the evening.

When it was all said and done I have to admit I was left with mixed feelings about Amada and the experience. While the pork was excellent and every bit worth the price, the failure to present the exotic cuts separately led to a lot of confusion and complaint…that and the grumbles about service left a bad taste in my mouth. Additionally, the tapas were good but not great while the seating and noise level were rather unwelcoming. All in all I’m definitely glad to have visited Amada and I certainly understand the appeal, but I can’t say it is a place I’d rush back to, especially given the quality of the Philadelphia dining scene.

Posted in Amada, Capogiro, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Octopus, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork, Vacation

August 25, 2010
5:08 PM
by: Uhockey

Amis Trattoria, Philadephia PA

Most epicures are aware of Marc Vetri and more and more are learning quickly of his 2010 Beard Award winning protégé Jeff Michaud. With three restaurants currently running under the Vetri lineup I have to admit that part of the impetus to visit Philadelphia in the first place was to sample what many consider to be the best Italian food in the United States. Having already scheduled the Degustazione at Vetri and a lunch at Osteria for later in the week it seemed only logical that I sample the whole lineup during my visit and as such my first lunch of the trip would occur at the newest of the spaces – Amis, on South 13th Street.

Having heard mixed things about prices and portions at Amis I entered the experience with a clear expectation of what was to follow – a sort of Romanesque Tapas experience, if you will. Collecting on my 1:15 reservation I was offered outdoors or indoors and wanting to watch the action I selected a seat at the bar so that I could watch the kitchen at work. Greeted by my pleasant (and exceedingly helpful) server as well as General Manager Ben Fileccia I inquired about portion sizes and how best to experience as many tastes as possible without filling up too quick. With the restaurant less than 1/4 filled both my server and Mr. Fileccia were extremely helpful in assisting me through the highlights of the menu.

Ordering in sections to gauge my appetite I browsed around the heavy wood and brick room room – rustic yet refined, “bar like” but comfortable and bright, and with enough sound insulation to prevent it from being “loud” I have to imagine the space can get quite noisy when filled. Differing from the contemporary feeling of Osteria and the rustic formality of Vetri there were a few commonalities between the three – specifically the flowered and the service which was all at once pleasant, whimsical, professional, and knowledgeable.

Starting things off, my first selection would be the daily House Cured Salumi Platter featuring Fennel Salami with Pickled Onions, Duck and Chicken Liver Terrine with Drunken Cherries, and Coppa with Walnut Honey. Served alongside the meats was a lightly oiled warm Foccacia. Beginning first with the hard salami I found the flavor to be appropriately porky but nicely balanced by the aromatics while the onions added a pungency that helped to meld the flavors together. Moving next to the coppa and honey – a delectable balance of sweet and savory with the crunchy walnuts adding texture. Finally, and most anticipated, was the terrine – not fully whipped I have to admit I truly loved the chunky texture and the overall flavor was more foie gras than chicken. Paired with sour black cherries the pate spread nicely on the bread and most definitely served as the highlight of the platter.

Moving on next to the small plates I opted to order a trio – two per my own selection and the other at the suggestion of Ben. Beginning first with the Almond dusted sweetbreads with fennel marmalade I can’t say I was wowed. While the thymus itself was appropriately crunchy on the outside and creamy within, I personally did not taste much almond or sweetbread as the marmalade overwhelmed some of the subtleties of the dish. Having had a number of sweetbread preparations over the years I will note the quality of the product was excellent, but the flavor pairing just was not to my liking.

The following dishes would prove much more successful than the sweetbreads – particularly the Fried lamb’s tongue with salsa rossa as recommended. Minimally gamey but intensely textural and compelling the lightly fried tongue was exquisitely tender and balanced nicely with the sweetened red pepper reduction. Adding lightly cooked red onions served to add a vegetal texture and the entirety of the course was truly enjoyable – a definite must order.

My final small plate would be the charred prosciutto wrapped figs with ricotta. Another exploration of sweet and savory these small bundles featured creamy figs wrapped with razor thin prosciutto slices that were seared black before my eyes before being plated atop a bed of whipped ricotta. Drizzling the entirety of the dish with a thick acidic balsamic reduction and served piping hot I will admit that the $12 price tag seemed a bit steep for only four servings, but the complexity and intensity of the flavors more than justified the expense – honestly, it is always hard to nitpick prices when top quality ingredients are prepared in a top quality kitchen, especially when the result is so good.

For my main course I was informed that half orders of pasta could not be accommodated and I would be forced to make a tough decision between the bucatini with artichokes and pistachios and the fettuccine with pork ragu and stone fruit. Asking the chef closest to me what he’d recommend I was told “the bucatini is good, the fettuccine will blow you away” and with that my decision was simplified. Watching one cook toss the hand cut pasta into the boiling water for what must have been less than 3 minutes while another tossed a handful of chopped peaches, plums, and apricots into a thick pork stock it would be less than 12 minutes before the completed plate would arrive before me – hot, aromatic, and hearty. With pecorinio shaved over the dish before me I plunged a fork into the thick ragu and was met with a subtle mélange of salty shredded pork and the sweet fructose of the fruits. Melding perfectly with the al dente pasta I will say that this dish was the second best pasta I had during my trip to Philadelphia, falling just short of Vetri’s signature spinach gnocchi in “wow” factor.

Sated but not stuffed my next order was coffee – my first of 5 experiences with the La Colombe lineup during my trip to Philadelphia. Cocoa accented with high notes of caramel the coffee was stunning and a perfect pairing for chocolate based desserts (future tastes at Osteria and Vetri only served to confirm this) – I bought three pounds before returning to Ohio. Accompanying the coffee, this time ignoring my server’s suggested dessert, was the daily dessert special of Tiramisu. With lady fingers made in house and the evening’s batch being prepared before me a large slice was presented on a plate and although not avant-garde in any way, the classical preparation was flawless in execution with cocoa, mascarpone, coffee, and rum each presenting prominently.

After chatting with the chef about my eating agenda (and, humorously about his opinions of the local cheese steak scene) I was presented with the bill – substantial to be sure, but not inappropriately so given the quality of the food, service, and ingredients. Full but not stuffed and knowing I had a big meal upcoming that evening I settled the tab, finished another cup of coffee, and bid the team farewell. Looking back in retrospect at the Vetri family of restaurants I can now say that Amis is certainly the least refined and yet not the least pricey. Tapas in its presentation I feel the ideal way to experience it would be with a group, as is their intent, in order to taste as many different presentations as possible – and if I lived locally I’d be looking for a group right now in order to head back for more.

Posted in Amis, Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Italian, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork, Sweetbreads, Tiramisu, Trattoria, Vacation, Vetri

August 25, 2010
12:41 PM
by: Uhockey

Sabrina’s Cafe and Termini Brothers Bakery, Philadelphia PA

The trip to Philly began like any other – gym first thing in the morning, a drive to the airport, a quick 6am flight, and getting checked in at my “hotel” – this time a B+B on south 8th street, a mere block from Termini Brother’s famous Pastries. Despite having an aggressive site seeing and eating agenda I couldn’t pass up such an opportunity and decided to start my vacation with a visit. Entering the small pastry shop I was greeted by two pleasant females and a stern sign telling me “Please do not handle pastries.” Amused I browsed with my eyes while helping myself to some of the samples at the register – a pair of delectable fig and apricot cookies and some chocolate biscotti.

After browsing all the available choices I went with the obvious – two canolli, one with chocolate cream and chopped walnuts and the other with sweet ricotta, chocolate chips, and pistachio. Paying the modest $6 fee I watched the bakers fill the pastries before the store clerk boxed and tied them with a bow and presented me with a delectable sample of warm cinnamon coffee cake from the kitchen.

Making my way to the street I quickly dispatched with the bow and after a short debate decided to start with the chocolate canolli. Featuring a buttery and crisp shell that gave way with an appropriate crunch I was greeted by a light cocoa cream and subtle notes of toasted nuts, light and smooth yet substantial and flavorful. Impressed I moved on to the ricotta option – the clear cut winner and an absolute must order for any visitor to Philadelphia. With an equally crispy shell the mildly lemon accented and texturally heterogeneous cheese speckled with nuts and chocolate chips was delightful, albeit significantly heavier than the chocolate cream. While I cannot say I am a cannoli expert I have had a number in my life and the versions at Termini Brothers were every bit as good as the prior best.

Turning northward the next stop on my agenda would be a proper breakfast at Sabrina’s Café. Arriving shortly after 9am on a Wednesday I was spared the famous excessive line and was given the option of seating outdoors or inside – with 70 degree weather, a nice breeze, and the active Italian Market just to my East I decided to sit outdoors in the shade. Greeted by an impressively attentive young female server I ordered coffee (a rather standard blend which was filled instantly and repeatedly) and browsed the menu for a few moments – identifying two items that sounded excellent I inquired if half orders were acceptable and when I was assured it was I opted for a half order of each.

Seated, sipping my coffee, and browsing my maps I waited for approximately 20 minutes before my options would arrive – and arrive they did, excessive in both size and presentation. Long winded in words and ingredients, my first selection would be the Killer Quasar Stuffed French Toast with Challah, Stuffed with Mascarpone, Blueberry and Vanilla Crunch, Topped with Peach-Vanilla Syrup and Seasonal Berries…and to be honest, it was Killer. Almost a bread pudding in consistency the buttery Challah was crispy outside and custard like within while the mascarpone lent its characteristic flavor and texture. Breaking up the smoothness were fresh strawberries and crunchy bits of blueberry granola and the whole dish was topped with a “syrup” that was more akin to a compote of pureed peaches.

The second choice, Magnificent Magnetar Pancakes with Buttermilk Cakes Topped with Polenta-Orange Cake Crumble, Dried Apricots, Orange-Honey Berry Compote, and Walnut-Orange B utter was good, but certainly not as great as the French Toast. Again using an amalgam of summer textures and flavors I will definitely note that the flavors were outstanding and well thought out despite the multitude of ingredients. What was lacking in these cakes, however, was the pancakes themselves – doughy, thick, and uninspiring on their own – I actually left the lower pancake on the plate after consuming the entirety of the top pancake and all its toppings.

Paying the modest tab and leaving a sizable tip (the service was much better than it needed to be, something uncommon for a “hip” restaurant) I made my way back to the market for more browsing before turning north en route for the Mutter museum. An excellent start to a trip that would be full of great sites, people, and food.

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, French Toast, Pancakes, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Sabrina's Cafe, Termini Brothers, Vacation

July 20, 2010
10:43 PM
by: Uhockey

Kihachi [2], Columbus OH

When I last visited Kihachi – almost 2 years ago despite it being less than a mile from my door – I stated “from the moment you enter the door to the moment you leave the experience is challenging yet simplified, complex yet refined, formal yet fun, and all-in-all wonderful.” but after that visit I’m afraid I fell out of love with the simple elegance of simplified cuisines and raw fishes…between work, studies, and living in the Midwest where there is a logistic limitation to the freshness of the fish I’d spent more time honing my palate in the formal realm of America’s best restaurants while on vacation than enjoying a culinary diamond in the rough in my own back yard. With that noted, I have to say I was excited when a colleague suggested a return visit to Kihachi – it is not often a friend has the money or inclination for such a place.

Planning around our schedules we decided Tuesday at 6:00 – the restaurant’s Mon-Sat opening time – would be ideal and arrived before the sign flipped from closed to open. The first persons to arrive in the restaurant we opted for counter seating and the restaurant quickly filled behind us – a situation no doubt somewhat due to Bourdain’s recently aired episode of No Reservations (actually filmed in November.) Greeted by the same two ladies who functioned as my translators/servers on the last visit water was filled promptly and service was exactly on par with previous, though items progressed from the kitchen slightly slower given the large crowd. Selecting between the “set menu” and the daily specials we each opted for four courses and then sat back to chat and watch Chef Mike’s masterful knife work. Sitting next to a pair of Japanese females the chef showed his preference for the language of his ancestors talking almost exclusively with the pair throughout the meal – he certainly seemed more personable on this visit than last.

For our first courses my dining companion ordered the baby octopus of my last visit while I opted for something new, a food I’d not yet encountered – the nightly special of Sea Cucumber with Melon, Lemon, and Seaweed in garlic soy broth. With a texture somewhere between Octopus and an actual cucumber I found the mildly sweet and snappy protein quite excellent while the mélange of sweet, sour, and salty in varying textures provided for a very appealing contrast – a well thought out dish, and a memorable one as well.

Our second courses would see my dining partner get two courses – the geoduck with miso and scallions (another dish I ordered on my previous visit) and the chef’s arranged tempura plate of fried japanese sweet potato, pumpkin, lotus root, shrimp, and octopus. For myself, the second course would entail my favorite dish of the night – a simple Otoro Roll with Ginger and Wasabi. Wound tightly and with just enough wasabi to add some heat the Fatty Tuna Belly was amongst the best I’ve had anywhere – and at $20 for twelve pieces much cheaper than I’ve had anywhere, as well.

Arriving shortly after my second course would be another sushi dish – this one much more interestingly paired. A box-style sushi that was interesting to watch the chef prepare, Sake Sea Bream with Lime and Mint would prove a very intoxicating concoction – the sweet fish painted with a bit of sake and the other constituents exuding hints of a mojito, but tamed enough by the savory fish and mild rice to prevent any one flavor from dominating the plate. Paired with a passion fruit infused soy sauce this dish was excellent.

Chatting some more while the burners were firing and the kitchen was working at a rapid pace we watched multiple other items come from the kitchen – fried mushrooms stuffed with shrimp, pork cheeks, a fried soft shell crab, amongst others. Shortly thereafter our main courses would arrive – simple, straight forward, salt-grilled Ayu. Served whole with the head on we each started from the tail and dissected upwards (tricky with chopsticks) identifying glandular meats as we went along. Salty, savory, perfectly crisp skin – and with liver and cheeks that trumped even the flesh…my only advice would be order this but skip the stomach.

When it was all said and done the four courses, tax, and tip rang in at just over $50 – certainly not cheap to say the least, but certainly not for a meal that you can find anywhere else in Columbus either. With all the debate going on about Bourdain’s strip malls and Applebee’s comment I still contest that I largely agree – but I’m also glad there are places like Kihachi in town to keep those of us who want a bit more from our cuisine happy. At some point I need to come back for the Omakase – perhaps when Uni season is back. Sushi restaurant or not, I still contest that Kihachi is the only place worth visiting for raw (or minimally cooked) fish in Central Ohio.

Posted in Columbus, Food, Kihachi, Octopus, Ohio, Sushi

June 30, 2010
10:38 PM
by: Uhockey

Bona Terra, Pittsburgh PA

Our final meal in Pittsburgh – literally, we drove back to Columbus after dinner – would actually be in Sharpsburg. A BYOB located in a rather blue collar part of town the restaurant may seem an odd choice to the unfamiliar – everything about its location, size, and layout seems to say “locals only.” What those paying attention would realize, however, is that Chef Douglas Dick has twice been a Beard Award Semi-Finalist, thrice been named Pittsburgh Magazine’s Chef of the Year, and has been embracing the “Farm to Table” movement since before most had American’s even heard of it. Locally sourced foods prepared by an internationally educated chef and a menu that changes daily (because Dick goes to the market daily for his products) everything about Bona Terra sounded fantastic.

Contacting the restaurant in advance to make certain photos were allowed I was assured that they were, provided no flash was used – I was also given helpful information on parking, the alcohol policy, and asked if anyone in our group had allergies or intolerances. With reservations made for 6:00pm, the restaurant’s opening time we arrived just moments early and found free parking without difficulty. Making our way into the restaurant we would soon be greeted by the Maitre D’, a young man named Adam, who informed us that the daily menu was being printed at that time but he’d be glad to get our drink orders – an iced tea for mom and water for my sister and I.

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The first table to arrive we were quickly joined by three other tables and the restaurant would later fill to capacity – not a difficult accomplishment considering there are less than 20 tables in the entirety of the space. Browsing the simple décor – yellow walls, fresh flowers in glass vases, and paintings of “mourning” flowers along the walls…tasteful and fitting the feel generated by the excellent soundtrack of Band of Horses, Motown Classics, and Classical played softly overhead. Greeted next by our server carrying the nights fresh menus I will note that the service at Bona Terra was refined yet whimsical, pleasant and punctual, present but not hovering – it was excellent.

After a short perusal of the menu our orders were placed – our server commenting that we’d ordered “very well.” Sitting back and enjoying the setting, music, and each other’s company it would only be a moment before our first taste of Douglas’ culinary skills would arrive. Described as Soy Glazed Heritage Farms Chicken over Coconut Rice the single skewer arrived and smelled heavenly. Clearly Asian in influence the tender and juicy breast meat was clearly marinated in soy and grilled until caramelized. Served over a smooth and nutty rice with a fatty texture that led me to believe it was boiled in coconut milk the whole dish worked nicely, albeit somewhat large for an amuse.

Given our large lunch and long drive ahead it was decided that we would share a couple of small appetizer plates prior to our mains – and given the fact that neither appetizer required cooking they would arrive quite quickly after our amuse. Starting first with a cheese plate, Cypress Grove Lamb Chopper with poached Bartlett Pears, Mixed Berry Infused Honey. Brought forth by the same company who makes my favorite cheese of all time, Humboldt Fog, the Lamb Chopper was described as a sheep’s milk Gouda imported from Holland. Smooth as butter and fragrant without being as pungent as many sheep’s milk cheeses the fromage was accompanied by impossibly sweet pears, water crackers, local strawberries, and a clover honey blended with what tasted largely of blackberry. A very well composed plate and a great cheese.

Having heard of Chef Dick’s daily shopping treks we decided a taste of his hand selected produce was in order – our second appetizer being a light salad of Penn’s Corner Romaine Lettuce with Vermont Chevre, Poached Pears, Cucumber, Local Strawberries, Toasted Almonds, and Strawberry Balsamic Vinaigrette. Crisp and fresh, a beautiful balance of sweet and savory, crunchy and smooth – simple, but excellent.

Following our appetizers would be a short delay – but a delay with the most unexpected treasure of the night…a bread and butter combo that still leaves me weak in the knees. Served singly (thank goodness or I’d have invariably eaten ten,) and piping hot from a wooden basket were “Brioche Rolls and Salted Peach Butter.” Warm and buttery on their own the rollswould have been suitable without any topping – they would have been every bit as delectable as the rolls at CityZen or Craftsteak or The French Laundry – but paired with a peachy sweet mélange of butter and cream cheese, they were heavenly. All told I ate four…in retrospect I still wish I would have eaten ten.

Arriving minutes before our main courses the table would next receive a palate cleanser in the form of a ball of Pineapple Sorbet made the previous evening. Light, creamy, and the very essence of pineapple.

For our main courses there were three fishes and four meats offered that evening and aside from the beef every single one of them sounded excellent; I imagine those who are lucky enough to enjoy a tasting menu at Bona Terra leave quite impressed. Starting with my mother’s selection, not wanting anything heavy she opted for the Marinated and Grilled Tiger Prawns over Greens and Tomato-Cucumber Gazpacho, Marinated Avocado and Balsamic Reduction. An ample dish for a mere $14 the four shrimp were large and clean, snappy with a sweet taste. Served over boiled greens and surrounded by a chilled tomato broth with ample notes of balsamic the shrimp were then topped with creamy avocado forming a “shrimp tartare” sort of flavor. Nicely plated – and indeed not at all heavy.

For my sister’s main course the choice was Oven Roasted North Atlantic Cod over Israeli Cous Cous and Sauteed Green Beans, Tarragon Infused Butter-Wine Pan Sauce with Grilled Black Mission Figs. Having never seen fig meets fish on a single plate I was intrigued by this dish from the start and only moreso when it arrived. A substantial slice of mild and buttery cod over a toothsome cous-cous and pan-crispy green beans, the fish was topped with a halved plump and juicy Fig clearly soaked in wine and butter while a sweet/savory reduction of butter, wine, and chopped figs circulated the plate. While the plating, in my opinion, could have been dressed up I’m rather certain the flavoring and quality couldn’t have been improved.

While my companions’ dishes were good mine was unreal – and only improved from the menu listing when Chef Dick informed us that he’d just gotten in a lobe of foie gras and if it “met his approval” he’d like to add it to the dish. Arriving with the smells of cinnamon, cherry, allspice, and thyme the “chef suggests medium rare” Seared Maple Leaf farms Duck breast and Hudson Valley Foie Gras over long grain Basmati rice, Sauteed Zucchini, Local Sour Cherry Compote, Sweet and Spicy Tropical Jamaican Jerk Reduction was fantastic. Smooth and supple with a clean layer of fat ribboned beneath the crispy skin the duck was potentially the best quality duck meat I’ve ever had. Topped with a velvet and ample slice of foie gras a presented over a benign rice and vegetal zucchini mélange the dish was brought to a peak by the addition of poached black cherries and a reduction that added heat and spice without overwhelming the multiple nuances of the dish – on par with the duck dishes in New Orleans, potentially better.

After a meal so stunning dessert was a must – a short list, made in house and unprinted – our waiter recited them all off in great detail. Discussing a moment amongst ourselves while he went to the kitchen to prepare my second La Prima Coffee of the day we came to consensus – as usual, all different orders with lots of sharing. Arriving after approximately 10 minutes, along with a coffee refill, was Mom’s option – the Meyer Lemon Tart with Whipped Cream and Blackberries. Sweet and sour the creamy custard met the buttery crisp crust nicely – not a fan of lemon desserts in general I thought it was good while mom felt it was the second best Lemon Tart she’d ever had.

For my sister’s selection she targeted the “newest item on the menu” – the Bavarian Chocolate and Hazelnut Tart with Local Strawberries. Served in a buttery crust similar to my mothers, Erika’s tart would consist of a creamy whipped dark chocolate mousse loaded with what I can only describe as “Chunky Hazelnut Butter.” Something like a “dark” Nutella pie the simplisticy of the tart was matched only by its decadence.

For my dessert the decision was between cheesecake and the dish our server described as the “house special.” With everything exceptionally special so far I went with the obvious – a simple and decidedly indulgent Rich Chocolate Cake with Peach Ice Cream. Served almost like Keller’s Bouchon dessert the thick, rich, and warm cake was topped with a large scoop of ice-cream that tasted like a melting peach without the fuzz. Focusing on the cake – the texture was almost that of a steamed pudding – a little wet, but “set” and hefty. Complimenting the dish with fresh berries, chocolate sauce, house made whipped cream, and sliced candied almonds rounded out a fantastic presentation and closed a wonderful meal.

With a long drive ahead of us our server brought us the bill – I was actually sad the meal (and trip) was over…if only we’d have had more time for a tasting. Settling the tab the Maitre D’ stopped by and asked how everything had been – we told him fantastic and he said he would pass the information on to the chef…whether he did or did not I can’t be sure. What I can be sure of, however, is that our meal at Bona Terra was one of those experiences that makes you realize just how good largely unmanipulated fresh fruits, vegetables, and proteins can be when placed in the hands of a skilled chef. Great food, wonderful service, and a nice location without all the hype and frills – a “hidden gem” if there ever was one.

Posted in Bona Terra, Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Vacation

June 30, 2010
5:30 PM
by: Uhockey

Casbah and Prantl’s, Pittsburgh PA

For our last lunch in Pittsburgh we decided to return to the Big Burrito Group; Eleven was quite good and both Gayot and Pittsburgh Magazine compared the experience at Casbah favorably to that of Big Burrito’s crown jewel. Citing a mix of Mediterranean and Northern African influences with a bargain Piccola Gusto Menu for lunch and the option for indoor or al fresco dining it seemed as if Casbah was a can’t miss option…well, sometimes things don’t turn out quite as you expect – almost everything that transpired from the moment we arrived until the moment we left was a failure.

Taking a step back and trying to be objective – arriving around noon it was evident from the start that Casbah was a “happening” sort of place – power lunches in suits, couples dressed as if they were out for an evening, ladies gossiping and exchanging gifts – the outdoor patio (reminiscent of Spago) was full and the inside just short of packed. With that noted, we had reservations and there were open tables – we were seated promptly by the hostess…and then we waited upward of 7-8 minutes for menus or a staff member to arrive.

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When our server, a young woman named Amanda L who would prove quite inept and inefficient from start to finish, finally did arrive our menus were delivered with a brief hello before she wandered away – another server later stopped by to fill our water and drinks were never even offered. When Amanda finally did return she was capable of answering a couple questions about portion size and our orders were placed. With my mom and sister opting for the two-course Gusto lunch and myself choosing two courses a la carte we sat and sipped our water.

Waiting approximately 10 minutes another ancillary server arrived with bread and butter – a light and airy white bread with a hefty crust paired with a sweet and salted cow’s milk butter – decent, but nothing to write home about compared to the myriad bread options at Eleven. After this point we would not see another staff member for 30 minutes…well, we would see them, they just wouldn’t be walking anywhere near our table – instead bussing tables and running around while the hostess flirted with a man at the bar…I’ll note that my water glass remained empty for greater than 15 minutes.

When our first courses did arrive they were not delivered by Amanda but instead by the man who had brought our bread. Left without a description but with a full glass of water we dug in, finally freed from the culinary prison of bread and water. Starting with the soup du jour, ordered by both my mother and sister, Mushroom Soup, ramp pesto, walnuts – earthy and aromatic, some contrast from the walnuts, but actually quite bland and served lukewarm…mom actually considered asking for salt but deferred – I’m not sure if that was because I commented about her blood pressure or because she assumed it would take an hour.

My first selection would prove much better than the soup, but certainly not as nuanced as I’d expected for a dish with so many ingredients. Titled Potato Gnocchi, asparagus, sun-dried tomato, rosemary, greens, braised chicken, Landaff cheese I will first note the dumplings themselves were very nicely done – toothsome but dissolving on the tongue. Tangy and nicely melted the Landaff was a great addition to the plate and served to nicely compliment the gnocchi. Where the dish faltered, unfortunately, was the exact opposite of the soup – the combination of braised chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, and cheese simply overwhelmed the more mild flavors of the other vegetal constituents and spices. A competent dish with great texture and giving me the impetus to look into Landaff the next time I decide to make Macaroni and cheese; it was just too salty.

Finished with our first courses approximately 10 minutes would pass – long enough for me to actively collect each and every plate and stack them at the empty seat of our four-top – before Amanda would finally return to collect the dirty plates…we’d not see her again until 15 minutes later when she filled our water glasses and told us our main courses would be “right out.” While I guess she didn’t define “right out,” what this actually meant was “in 25 minutes.” Starting first with my mother’s combo – Jumbo Lump Crab, pepper bacon, avocado, radish sprouts, on a paesano bun and Orecchiette Pasta with grilled chicken, dried cranberries, Riverview Farms goat cheese, sage cream – all I can note from my single bite of the sandwich was that the bacon was excellent (mom notably liked the sandwich a lot.) While the sandwich may not be memorable, the pasta was actually quite impressive. Using a less salty cheese and mild cream to flavor the al dente little ears of pasta worked wonders while the sweet/savory mélange of craisins and grilled chicken were a nice match.

Vastly less well done than my mother’s plate would be my sister’s option – the Grilled Vegetables, portobello, zucchini, eggplant, arugula, chickpea hummus, on baguette and Maccheretto pasta with wild mushrooms, white beans, sun-dried tomatoes, rapini pesto, fontina, walnuts. Beginning with the sandwich, the bite I had was good in taste but rather mushy in consistency – too many similar vegetable textures and the hummus spread too thickly. Moving on to the pasta – first Erika tasted it. Then I tasted it. Then my mother tasted it. Honestly, to this point I’m still not sure what we were supposed to be tasting – it tasted like watery cheese…no spice, no salt, and certainly nothing resembling pesto or tomatoes. For the first time in the meal Amanda actually opted to check on us approximately 10 minutes into our main courses and when told of the watery pasta she did apologize and offered to replace it with something else – another order of the Orcchiette would prove as good as the first.

For my main course I received a simple side salad – fresh greens, crispy onion strings, and a pleasant vinaigrette. The salad, of course, was served alongside Elysian Fields Lamb “Mac and Cheese”, tubetti pasta, mascarpone, cheddar, Pecorino-Romano, and bread crumbs. Piping hot and browned with crispy bread crumbs the dish was a decent Macaroni and Cheese, but honestly the lamb was so scarce and thinly cut that it added little. Additionally confusing – these “tubetti” pasta…like a macaroni noodle cut in half…personally, I’d have opted for something with more size and body.

Completing our mains approximately 110 minutes after entering Casbah we again waited nearly ten minutes before anyone would stop by to collect dirty plates – a different ancillary server this time. With my mother and sister already deciding enough was enough they stood up to use the restroom before leaving – by the time Amanda would stop by to ask if anyone would care for dessert our two course meal had lasted 2:05 and I skipped on a menu entailing bread pudding, carrot cake, and panna cotta with “just the bill.”

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As a man who wears his emotions quite prominently I’ve no doubt I looked pissed at this point – no apology was offered, however. Settling the bill via credit card no tip was left because no tip was deserved – in reality Amanda may have actually be the worst server I’ve encountered at a fine dining establishment in the last 2 years. I will note that when I wrote to Big Burrito (something I rarely do) I was met by a (seemingly) sincere apology without excuses – the Manager stated things don’t’ normally happen like that and he’d be sure the issue was addressed. He closed with “I hope you will join us again in the future.” I will not.

Driving away from Casbah we set the GPS to the Warhol museum…dessert could be cupcakes at Dozen in the Warhol Café, we figured. Driving though the streets of Pittsburgh up to Walnut Street the GPS alerted us that a programmed destination was close and our plans changed – Prantl’s would be dessert, instead. Ever intrigued by restaurants, shops, bakeries, and cafes that become infamous for a single item (see Haydel’s in NOLA or Patisserie Claude in NYC) I felt it necessary to see if the Burnt Almond Torte lived up to the hype.

Parking at a Premium at this time of day I hopped out while the others circled the block. Entering the small shop and finding no less than 7 people waiting in line I grabbed a number and browsed the selections – 5 full cases ranging from whole cakes to single iced cookies and everything in between. With 5 servers behind the counter the line moved quickly and it would be a matter of minutes before I had to make a decision – opting for three items that spanned a wide range I paid the modest $6 tab and made my way outside.

Opening the string-tied box the smell of cinnamon quickly filled the air announcing to everyone my first selection – a still-slightly-warm Cinnamon roll. Ample, yeasty, and loaded with butter and Cinnamon I quite liked that the pastry was not overly-iced, instead focusing on the more nuanced flavors and natural yeasty flavor of the roll. While my sister contested it would have been better hot (I can’t say I disagree) it was an excellent pasty none the less.

The second selection was ordered more out of tradition than out of necessity – a chocolate cupcake with colorful sugary frosting. Having not yet indulged on a cupcake in our Pittsburgh trip I can’t say this option looked particularly interesting, but tradition is tradition and surprisingly it was actually quite good. Simple white on black cake, moist and sweet – nothing new, but certainly an adequate cupcake for $0.99.

The final choice was obviously the Burnt Almond Torte – a single “Bar” for $3.25. Large and heavy I was expecting to have my mind blown given the reviews all I can say is that the rumors are true. Somewhat Twinkie, somewhat Pound Cake, smooth and complex custard plus whipping cream, and sugar laden almonds cooked to just short of scorched. Crispy, creamy, crispy, creamy – layer upon layer of home style decadence. Sharing the bar around the car (and making a mess) everyone agreed that this was one of the best baked goods we’d ever experienced – and an absolute bargain at that. Really, much like King Cake in NOLA and Pizza in Chicago I can’t imagine going back to Pittsburgh and not getting a slice of Burnt Almond Torte from Prantl’s.

Posted in Bread Basket, Casbah, Crab, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Prantl's, Vacation

June 30, 2010
12:15 PM
by: Uhockey

Coca Cafe, Pittsburgh PA

After an incredible experience at Falling Water and Lautrec the night before it was back to The Burgh for more art, flowers, shopping, and food – waking up later than usual I decided to forgo the gym and after a quick shower the three of us made our way down to hipster/bohemian Lawrenceville section of Pittsburgh for a breakfast I was told “can’t be beat.” Arriving at Coca Café just after 8am and finding free parking along the street we made our way in to the small shop to find only four tables full and only one server working. Greeted pleasantly we were invited to sit wherever we like.

Speaking of tables and seats, they are probably the first thing anyone visiting Coca Café will notice. Somewhere between yard-sale and antique store the restaurant features no less than 20 different styles of chair and everything from a small two top to a table that looks like something you’d find in your grandmother’s kitchen. Lining the wall with works of local artists, many of which were for sale, and filled with natural light the main room is fun and whimsical – so much that you can almost overlook the coffee, juice, and tea bar that dominates the right half of the space.

Greeted quickly by our server, an attractive and smiling young woman named Sharyn we were presented with menus and drink orders were placed – 2 coffees, one Almond Coca Moca and a subsequent hot tea for my sister, plus water. I will note now that if Sharyn is not an owner or co-owner of Coca Café she deserves a BIG raise – making lattes, taking orders, bussing tables, running food from the kitchen, rolling napkins and silverware…I wouldn’t have been surprised if she was cooking, as well – and even with all that our cups never reached empty. Inside those cups – bold and balanced La Prima Coffee with free refills for $1.95 and Stash Tea for $1.25…a resounding bargain.

Orders placed we sat for less than fifteen minutes before our shared starter would arrive steaming hot from the kitchen. Listed as “Zucchini Bread – made with chocolate chips and coconut, served with fresh fruit” this was unlike any Zucchini Bread I’ve ever had in that the bread was certainly made of well chopped zucchini – fibrous, moist, and full of nutmeg and cinnamon – but it was also loaded with shredded coconut and small chips of bitter dark chocolate giving it a “Mounds Bar” taste and texture. Topped with a creamy butter this was a nice taste – it made me want to try the Banana Bread, as well.

When it came to main courses we ordered in predictable fashion – each ordering something different and sharing around. Selecting first my mother, a fan of all things lemon, opted for the Almond French Toast – with fresh berries and lemon cream sauce. While the dish certainly would not have been my first choice it actually turned out to be superb with thick and hearty rustic French bread cut at an angle, dipped in cream, vanilla, and cinnamon plus chopped almonds and pan fried crispy. Topped with an ethereal cream sauce that tasted far too sweet to be called “lemon” (perhaps Meyer Lemon?) the whole dish felt light, summery, and fun.

For my sister’s selection, the dish I’d originally targeted – Challah French Toast with brie, fig jam, and fresh berries. Luscious and buttery the Challah on its own would have been delectable, but dipped in batter and griddled to crisp the bread was lovely. Topping the bread first with heavy slices of creamy brie and then adding a smear of sweet fig compote plus a handful of strawberries and blueberries the dish was already wonderful, but a drizzle of maple syrup really brought out some of the mellow notes in the cheese.

For my main course, potentially the most interesting item on the menu – the Herbed Goat Cheese French Toast with country white bread stuffed with herbed goat cheese and topped with fresh berries. Featuring three huge pieces of thick and airy bread, the slices were then cut diagonally and stuffed with rich and pungent chevre laden with basil, chive, salt, pepper. With a hearty crust supporting the bread and earthy aromatics sandwiched within the bread was then dipped and pan seared to golden brown. Topped simply with berries the whole concoction begged for a generous helping of pure maple syrup and when completed resembled the sort of sweet/savory interplay that one would expect from an Italian or Greek dessert course.

Full but not stuffed we settled the modest bill and left a well deserved tip for our outstanding “do-it-all-and-do-it-well” staff of one. Making our way to the street and subsequently to Phipps Conservatory the meal at Coca Café was one of the best breakfasts I’ve had in some time and everything from the quirky decorations to unique selections to outstanding service were absolutely worth the trip.

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coca Cafe, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Vacation

June 29, 2010
10:15 PM
by: Uhockey

Lautrec, Farmington PA

To this point I still have no idea what I did to warrant this gesture, but when it was all said and done I had just completed an absolutely stunning meal and was sipping my coffee when my waiter appeared tableside and stated “the check has been taken care of by Nemacolin.” With that noted, for the first time in my life I must start a review with a disclaimer – while some may not believe it possible to be objective under such circumstances all I can say is that even prior to those 9 words my meal at Lautrec was amongst the ten best dining experiences of my life.

Starting from the top; approximately one month prior to our visit to Falling Water I’d heard about Lautrec – it was recommended by the Maitre D’ at The Inn At Little Washington. Seemingly unrelated to the outsider it turns out that the suggestion was prompted by two facts – first, the Maitre D’ had recently had a great meal there and secondly because Chef Kristin A. Butterworth had recently graduated from her job at The Inn to the position of Chef de Cuisine at Lautrec, a AAA and Forbes 5-Star dining destination. Having not heard of the restaurant prior I scoured for information and although reviews of the restaurant were few and far between, the location at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort was highly regarded (to say the least.) Contacting the restaurant for reservations I was graciously assisted by general manager Anthony Arcurio who set me up for a table for one at 6:30 on June 29th and I was assured pictures would be okay provided no flash was used – he also offered me a tour of the kitchen during my visit, a nice gesture I’ve had the privilege to enjoy at multiple great restaurants.

Arriving at Nemacolin nearly an hour before my designated dining time I wandered the grounds – to say they feature something for everyone would be an understatment. From putt-putt to golf, a shooting academy to shopping, wooded walkways to off road adventures……and that isn’t even to mention the rock climbing, archery, ziplines, croquet, tennis (grass courts,) swimming pools, wildlife collection (lions, tigers, bears….and buffalo,) shopping, and fine dining. Really, they have their own airport. Duly impressed I made my way back to the main building where I met a friendly valet who took the car while another led me to the doors of Lautrec…along the way we met no less than 5 smiling employees.

Making my way to the hostess stand outside the restaurant I announced my name and was briefly confused as the young man could not find my reservation. Noting that the restaurant “isn’t very busy today, I’m sure we can fit you in” he fumbled for a moment before locating the reservation (filed under V instead of U) and apologized profusely before leading me quickly to a fantastically plus two-top near the window with a full view of both the gardens and the entirety of the restaurant. Left for merely a moment before being greeted by one of my two servers I browsed the decadent room, full of plush upholstery, high thread counts, Christofle and Crystal, and deep reds and blues harkening to the restaurant’s namesake artist – even the chargers were themed to artist (not to mention the 6 Lautrec originals found throughout the dining area.)

After a brief introduction from my waiter the first thing to arrive at my table was the champagne carte – Cristal, Krug, Dom, and others all well represented. Declining the champagne (and 10 types of Caviar offered on the same menu) but taking the cocktail list I opted for the Passenger 54 Martini – Grey Goose, Kahlua, Bailey’s, Espresso, and Chocolate Shavings…it was excellent but quite potent, though I admit a fairly low tolerance.

Greeted next by Mr.Arcurio (and another unnecessary apology for the reservation mistake) I was presented with the nightly menu, both prix fixe and tasting. Opting for the tasting menu but requesting a substitution for the beef it was suggested I simply take any item from the prix fixe and substitute it in – a great resolution given the available options. Orders placed I was asked to sit back and enjoy the experience while a mix of Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra, Chopin, and Mozart played softly overhead. With the restaurant less than half full I will say right now that although there were only two servers present that evening there was never a moment of want, whether for the house purified water, bread, silverware, butter, or anything else – they even brought me reading material (3 magazines, a portfolio on the restaurant’s layout and design, and a book about the Hardy Art Collection) to browse between courses.

Starting things off was a gift from the kitchen – the daily amuse bouche featuring House Cured Salmon Belly, Crème Fraiche, Candied Lemon, Micro Chive and Parsley, plus house blend hybrid caviar. Locally blended the caviar was apparently osetra plus beluga plus American sturgeon and the flavor was mild – almost a bit sweet. Small but well paired I particularly liked the manner in which the caviar was complimented by the melting salmon and sweet/sour interplay of the crème fraiche and lemon.

Following the amuse my server arrived with the house-baked bread selections and two butters, a goat butter from England paired with Maldon Sea Salt and a cow’s butter from Vermont paired with Atlantic Tangerine Salt. Selecting amongst the five breads – Sourdough, Olive Sourdough, Sweet Pumpernickel, Nine Grain, and Baguette…well, I selected one of each and had quite a few refills during the meal. Particularly impressive I truly enjoyed the Olive Sourdough and the Pumpernickel. In terms of the butter – the cow’s milk was mild and tasty, but the goat’s milk…I went through two plates of the grassy and nearly cheese-like spread.

Moving on to the tasting menu my first dish was actually presented by Chef Butterworth herself. Peeky Toe with local Compressed Melon, Crème Fraiche, Chive, Mint Jus was delightful. Featuring sweet crab wrapped in cantaloupe and cryo-vac compressed honeydew the dish was finished with a combination of chive, dehydrated crème fraiche, vanilla oil, and mint. While not entirely molecular gastronomy there were clearly modern elements at play in this dish, but all of them were quite functional and all worked quite nicely to form an attractive and light opening plate.

Dish two would be (somewhat predictably) a soup course, in this case Spring Onion Soup with Caramel, Pickled Ramp, Garlic, Chive, and Onion Tuille. Arriving as a pile of vegetables to one side and a white powder to the other the veloute was added tableside and the powder quickly dissolved releasing the smell of both onion and caramel simultaneously. “Dehydrated Caramel” said my waiter – “bon appetite.” Mixing the mélange adequately and allowing it to cool slightly my first bite was a revelation – everything just worked wonderfully together. Earthy and pungent yet sweet and smooth with variable textures galore – on par with the soup at Per Se for best ever.

A short wait between courses two and three led to more conversation with Anthony – we talked about my dining experiences, the places he had worked prior, and his home town of Parma, OH – a city about an hour east from where I grew up. It was here that he told me the menu would be changing on July 6th and that my next course was going to be going away for the season – after tasting it I must say that is a shame. Titled Butter Poached Halibut Cheeks, Black Quinoa, Pioppini, Grilled Ramp Vinaigrette the dish was fantastic and I’d later find out that it actually wasn’t Chef Butterworth who was responsible, but rather another young female chef working the fish station. Pairing the flawless and mild fish with toothsome and nutty quinoa the dish was finished with a dusting of pepper, crispy mushrooms, and a pungent yet tamed ramp puree – the presentation was clean, simple, and elegant.

Plate four would be Chilean Sea Bass with Lobster Sausage, Potato, Caviar Butter Sauce. Again prepped by the fish half of the kitchen this dish would prove to be equally delicious as its predecessor, albeit much heavier in flavor and portion. Pan seared and lightly salted the Bass itself was finished in the oven and flaky to fork – perfect execution. Pairing the mild bass with a fatty sausage exuding the very essence of lobster and shellfish the fish was then rested upon a pomme puree not dissimilar from that of Joel Robuchon and the dish was finished tableside with a reduction of shallot, wine, lemon, butter, and paddlefish roe. Salty but nuanced the entire focus of this dish was clearly on the quality of the Sea Bass and while I understand many take issue with this fish due to overfishing, I must say that when done right it is a true delight.

Dish five would be Lautrec’s signature dish, but for all the hype I found it to be the least interesting course of the evening – not bad, but just not the same level of wow as the others. Entitled “Truffle – 60 minute Egg, Capellini, Reggiano” the plating consisted of a small tightly wound pile of house made Cappelini tossed in butter sauce with the golden yolk of an egg rested atop. Added tableside, slices of Umbrian truffles and shaved Parmesiano Reggiano. Flawlessly executed, perhaps I’ve just been spoiled by similar (better) versions at Charile Trotters and Per Se.

Following the Truffled Egg would be the course I selected to replace the beef – an obvious choice to anyone who knows me, the Foie Gras Trio – Hazelnut Pain Perdu, Local Blueberries, Lemon, Aged Balsamic. Arriving in three forms – seared hot, bruleed warm, and chilled puree, each was better than the next when progressing from left to right. Leftmost on the plate, a seared section simply seasoned and perched atop hazelnut bread with ample notes of rum, honey, and paired with a blueberry balsamic reduction. Central a baked custard of foie gras, egg, cream, and maple syrup – nicely caramelized and matched with a lemon infused greek yogurt. Finally, and most impressive of all, a lolli-pop of foie gras, port, and gelatin paired elegantly with a white peach puree, honey comb and honey granules.

Impressed by the overall sizes of each course I was surprised when dish seven arrived – I had expected it to be my main course – but in retrospect, it turned out to be the best dish of an otherwise incredible meal. Entitled Quail – Bacon, Asparagus, Morels, Fried Egg the dish featured Quail in four forms – all from Palmetto Pigeon Plant in Sumter South Carolina. Beginning first by brining the legs in myriad spices including cherry wood, rosemary, and bay leaf and subsequently rendering a confit utilizing duck fat. Drained, the confit was then packed into the breast of the bird and subsequently wrapped in quail bacon prior to pan searing – on its own this elaborate presentation would have been heavenly. Adding another layer of depth, however, were aromatic butter roasted Morels and snappy asparagus which added a vegetal component to the heavy proteins. Completing the dish – a deep fried quail egg, runny and creamy – a beautiful dish and an absolute must order from the Spring menu.

Getting somewhat full at this point it was now time for the final savory of the evening – Elysian Field Lamb, Spring Pea Risotto, Morel Mushrooms, Sherry. Prepared rare, sliced, and shingled with a round left to be sliced the lamb rested above a pillow of sweet peas and creamy rice – simply paired, excellent quality. To the right of the protein, a puree of sweet peas and mild was subsequently topped with a layer of Sherry cream sauce while crispy morels flanked the proteins adding their characteristic earthy flavor. Simple, well prepared – not as good as the lamb the night before at Eleven, but very good.

Arriving next, oddly considering their $75,000 Christofle Cheese Cart, was an pre-arranged cheese plate. Featuring three options selected by the chef to best represent the cart and paired with two types of local honey, almonds, peanuts, pain perdu with blueberry syrup, and a quince moutarde I have to say I liked what was chosen. From left to right, first Tomme de Chévre from France – sweet yet nutty, salty yet with pronounced tang, the most complex of the three. Second, aged English Farmhouse Cheddar – sharp and grassy, potent and an excellent pairing with the pain perdu. Finally, a 15 month Aged Cashel Blue from Ireland – extremely pungent and a bit spicy, too rich for my general tastes but balanced by its creamy texture. (a note to anyone eating at Lautrec, the cheese course is included on both the tasting and the prix fixe.)

Following cheeses I chatted with Anthony some more while the pastry chef prepared a sweet ending. Having already suggested a tour of the kitchen I was asked if I’d also like to see the $1.75 million dollars worth of wine in Nemacolin’s vault and have a tour of the 6 Lautrec’s (some contained in private dining rooms.) Suggesting that this would be fantastic my palate cleanser next arrived- a house made sparkling strawberry soda with a dollop of basil sorbet resting atop. Sipped slowly with a straw I was reminded of dessert at Eleven Madison Park 2 years ago – the first time I’d ever had savory spices mixed into a dessert course.

At this point in the meal two carts were brought tableside simultaneously – first a full cart of dessert wines, ports, and liquors, and second an antique tea set with 30+ loose leaf teas for perusal and infusion. Declining both (but adequately impressed) I opted for coffee – a bold and balanced blend from the houses that brew Illy; it was allowed to steep tableside before being poured from a silver French Press. Clearly Lautrec pulls out all the stops when it comes to service wear, tableside presentations, and “wow factor.”

Dessert proper would follow coffee – along with a second and third press later. Dubbed “Chocolate – Virginia Peanuts in Many Forms, Bruleed Banana” this dish, like the Foie Gras, actually featured three separate dishes united by a common ingredient. Starting left, a Banana Macaron with traditional almond Macaron cookies filled with banana custard and sitting atop Peanut butter powder formed with maltodextrin with bruleed bananas along side. Central, a simple peanut butter ice cream, melting and smooth atop crumbled candied peanuts. To the right, the highlight of the dish, a flexible dark chocolate ganache – light and airy – topped with crispy chocolate mousse and crumbled raw Hubb’s Northern Virginia Peanuts. Chocolate, peanut butter, bananas – really, this dish had no chance at failing and the varying flavors and textures spread linearly kept it from being monotonous.

Along with my last cup of coffee I was brought a tray of Mignardises – four options total, but multiples of each on the tray. Selecting one of each I was plated a blackberry pate de fruit, a lavender marshmallow, a cocoa truffle, and a passion fruit opera cake. Each quite tasty I rather wonder, considering all the other carts and gestures, why Lautrec would not go for the gusto a la Savoy or Robuchon and add a carte de mignardises (or bread, for that matter.) Not a critique, but perhaps more a suggestion – everything else was fantastically well done, why not add a few more flourishes?

Expecting my check to arrive next, Anthony stopped by to let me know they were preparing a copy of the menu and that he’d like to take me on a tour of the facilities if I had time. Certainly in no rush after such a wonderful experience I followed him through the wine vault, the private dining areas where one of our servers (a member of the Lautrec team for 15 years) joined us to describe the art, and finally the kitchen where I thanked the Chefs for the wonderful experience. Making my way back to the table I would find a small box containing two buttery lemon accented Madelines (alas, not warm like Ducasse, Stratta, or Boulud – but tasty none the less) and a copy of the menu rolled up waiting for me. Sitting back and finishing my coffee it was then that my server arrived to inform me the bill was taken care of.

Taken aback and uncertain how to respond to the gesture (I wanted to leave a tip but I don’t carry cash and I couldn’t exactly give them a credit card without a bill to sign) I thanked my server and made my way to the door where I was bid farewell by what seemed to be the entire front of the house. Making my way out into the lobby I stopped by the cigar shop to browse the souvenirs and picked up a signature “Fat Bird” statue from the resort – again, the clerk was nothing but smiles and manners. Driving away from Nemacolin (past the “Moose Crossing” sign) all I could think about was the meal that had just happened – pure magic from start to finish, not a single dish ranking below very good and service that was so effusive it bordered on perfection. Located in the middle of the woods – over an hour from any major or minor city – Lautrec is not the place you just happen upon, it is like Yountville or Washington Virginia – a destination well worth the effort.

While I cannot say every experience will end like mine, judging from service delivered and smiles received from the other diners lucky enough to be there that evening the only difference will likely be the bill – modest compared to similar experiences. It is only a matter of time before I end up back at Nemacolin…next time I’d like to stay for a bit and explore the grounds, Aqueous, Autumn, and get back to Lautrec…I hear Falling Water is beautiful in the Fall.

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Farmington, Foie, Food, Lautrec, Macaroon, Madeline, Nemacolin, Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation

June 29, 2010
4:06 PM
by: Uhockey

Lidia’s, Pittsburgh PA

Lunch on the second day of our visit was the one restaurant that gave me pause when booking the reservation – reviews were mixed, the chef was a celebrity, the location was trendy, and it was part of a mini-chain. On the other hand, my previous experiences in the Batali and Bastianich empire of restaurants had been a resounding success and this was the restaurant of Joseph’s mother, Lidia’s…it had also been in operation for nearly a decade, was designed by David Rockwell’s Group, and had recently held onto its three-star review from the Post-Gazette. Always on the lookout for excellent Italian and impressed by the bargain basement lunch menu we decided to give Lidia’s Pittsburgh a try.

Arriving at the midpoint of the lunch hour we were surprised to find the restaurant less than 1/4 full. With the bar empty and only one section being seated be claimed our reservation and were led quickly to a table near the large glass windows – an excellent view of the river would be our companion throughout the meal. Meeting our waiter, a friendly man named Chendo we were given menus and a brief explanation of the daily special pastas for the Pasta Trio. Left to decide what sounded best (honestly, there were far more great options than mediocre options) one of the numerous members of the ancillary staff arrived to fill our water glasses and take drink orders – tea for my sister, coffee for myself, iced tea for mom. With the restaurant quite slow that day I will note we were very well taken care of throughout out meal – the service staff was excellent.

Browsing the high ceilinged room, randomly placed bottles and objects, and abundant brightly colored glass panels plus Chihuily influenced chandeliers I have to say Lidia’s is a very handsome restaurant – it has that “wow” factor of many New York City dining rooms (The Modern or Alto come to mind.) While the white paper over white tablecloth aspect of the table setting struck me as odd, everything else felt “fine dining” without seeming forced. When Chendo returned we placed our orders and were surprisingly told soup or salad would be included with the meal – a nice touch, albeit unadvertised.

Sitting and waiting for our meals to arrive we were first delivered one of the better bread baskets I’ve had in recent memory – Sea Salt Foccacia, Rustic Italian, and Cracked Wheat Sourdough served with two spreads, a Chick Pea Pesto and pureed White Beans with Black Olive, both resting in a pool of slightly sweet extra virgin olive oil. Served warm the breads were tantalizing and given the size of the portions soon to be arriving it was definitely a chore not to overindulge (a chore I failed, miserably.)

Approximately 10 minutes after orders were placed our first course arrived as promised – a competent albeit under seasoned Leek, Potato, and Bread Soup. Served piping hot my first bite was deceiving in that I thought the temperature was responsible for the obscuring the flavor. Unfortunately as the soup began to cool I realized that I was not fooled – the soup just wasn’t well done. Pungent and potato laden, in reality the only seasoning seemed to come from the salt on the bread. Not a good start – even if it was free.

For our main courses my mother opted for a salad and a contorti while Erika and I chose pastas. For myself (unpictured due to a camera malfunction) the choice was quite simple – my favorite pasta and my favorite protein on the same plate, Gnocchi with Duck Guazetto. An Italian Stew not unlike Chicken Cacciatore, but featuring duck in white wine instead of Chicken in Red the thick reduction was hearty, meaty, smoky, and laden with vegetables. Paired with a toothsome yet non-doughy potato gnocchi the dish was not only enormous, but incredibly filling. While I will admit I ate a lot of bread and helped my mother and sister with their plates I can say that this was one dish I couldn’t finish, it was just too large – but it was so good that had our hotel had a microwave I’d have certainly taken some home with me.

For Mother’s selection she opted for the Roasted Beet and Apple Salad with Frisee and Fresh Goat Cheese plus the Pan Seared Golden Polenta Fritters. A competent salad with sweet apples balancing earthy beets and pungent goat cheese the dish was brought together by a splash of balsamic and olive oil, ample in size and flavor, very nicely done. Not fairing quite as well as the Salad were the Fritters – nicely prepared and crispy on the outside with creamy polenta within, they again lacked flavor, much like the soup. Paring the fritters with some of the sauce from my sister’s pasta or the Guazetto certainly helped, but if I were Lidia’s I’d use a more aromatic cheese or pair these squares with a marinara.

Erika’s selection would be the signature Pasta Trio – three pastas plated tableside with unlimited refills. Admittedly the concept sounds somewhat “Olive Garden” but that is before you realize two of the pastas are made in house and one is imported direct from Italy…and all the sauces are made daily in the kitchen, as well. Served up onto a single large platter the daily selections for the 29th of June would be hand torn Tagliatelle and Pork Ragu, Imported Orchiette with Fennel Sausage and Thyme, and house folded Sweet Pea and Corn Ravioli with Cream Sauce. Enormous in portion I cannot really fathom anyone requiring seconds of the trio and at a mere $14 the selections were excellent. Smoky and Sweet the Pork Ragu complimented the al dente Tagliatelle nicely while the aromatic sausage was an equally balanced flavor for the Orchiette (which, in my opinion could have used a little more straining prior to adding the sauce.) The most impressive of the group, the sweet pea and corn ravioli, was sweetened only by the vegetal components while the cream itself had notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. Some may call the trio gimmicky – personally, if a gimmick is good I don’t mind.

Returning food to the kitchen and actually quite full we originally declined Chendo’s suggestion of dessert – but then decided it wouldn’t hurt to look at the menu…well, at least it wouldn’t hurt anything but our waistlines. Browsing the menu from top to bottom and finding not a single unimpressive option we decided to go with two desserts to be shared around. Arriving simultaneously and thankfully smaller than the entrees was Torta di Mandorle e Mirtilli – Blueberry and almond cake, blueberry-lavender ice cream, almond crunch, blueberries. If a little is good a lot is better seemed to be the theme of this dessert and it worked nicely – the fresh blueberries lacing the buttery pound cake, the flowery accent to the blueberry ice cream, and the crunchy sugared almonds paired with even more blueberries – excellent.

The second dessert, larger in size but lighter in texture, would be Panna Cotta alla Fragola – Strawberry and ricotta panna cottas, lemon-strawberry sandwich cookies, fresh strawberries. Served in a 12oz glass better suited for a milkshake the panna cotta was surprisingly springy and well blended with a more gelatin strawberry base topped by an ample creamy layer of whipped cream and ricotta. Unnecessary but welcomed the lemony cookies were much akin to a shortbread in texture and Madeline in flavor.

Settling the modest bill my mother picked up a Jar of Lidia’s Marinara as a souvenir for my aunt and paid up front before we made our way to the street. With a full afternoon of wandering Falling Water and Nemacolin ahead of us I have to admit I slept like a baby in the car while my mother and sister navigated – a nice carb load will do that to you. Thinking back on the meal I have to admit it wasn’t the best Italian food I’ve ever had, but it was nicely done and served at an excellent price point in a fantastic room. Having heard “upscale Olive Garden” comparisons I personally find that assessment far from accurate and would actually go so far as to say that aside from the lack of seasoning (ironic given the fact that most people critique Batali and Bastianich restaurants for over seasoning) the experience was on par with many fine dining Italian establishments in other cities…if the portions were smaller I’d have loved to try more of the menu.

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Italian, Lidia's, Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Vacation

June 29, 2010
12:01 PM
by: Uhockey

Pamela’s P+G Diner and Mon Aimee Chocolat, Pittsburgh PA

Their recipes are well guarded, the restaurant world famous, the chain ever expanding, and they even cooked for the President at The White House – clearly a visit to Pamela’s was on the agenda for our trip to Pittsburgh. Arriving on the strip around 8:00am and finding meter parking for a mere 50 cents we made our way from the car, hit the ATM (cash only at Pamela’s) and entered the restaurant to find it just under 1/2 full. Invited by a friendly young woman to seat ourselves we opted for a booth along the wall and sat for a moment absorbing the kitsch…vinyl furniture, plastic menus, stone walls, and random photographs of celebrities past and present.

Opening the menus and blatantly skipping all the boring eggs, bacon, and ham our waitress appeared to fill drink orders. With only sweet n’ low and sugar available for the coffee I opted to stick with water while my mom chose coffee and my sister selected tea. Drinks delivered, including full pitchers of each to put the diner on refill duty, we placed our orders and browsed the lively restaurant while listening to the sounds of classic tunes overhead. Founded in 1980 Pamela’s certainly appeared older than its stated age, but it worked.

Waiting less than fifteen minutes our waitress checked in on us to be sure nothing else was needed and to let us know our food would be right out…after watching our neighbors receive their options I have to admit I was quite excited…and without fail the food arrived moments later, piping hot from the griddle. With each of us selecting a different item and each plate large in portion and ample in flavor there was much sharing to be done.

Beginning first with my selection, perhaps Pamela’s most famous option, I opted for the Strawberry Hotcakes. Served in Pamela’s famous crepe style the hotcakes themselves were divine. Yeasty and soft yet caramelized and crisp around the circumference the pancakes themselves were stunning. More impressive yet, ordered in the peak of strawberry season, the cakes were absolutely stuffed with super sweet fresh strawberries, brown sugar, and a zippy sour cream then topped with whipped cream. Adding a touch of syrup (unfortunately not pure maple) the whole plate came alive – really, the dish made a fantastic breakfast but could have just as easily been served as dessert.

Following my lead and going with the signature hotcakes my mother received two enormous cakes absolutely crammed with hot bananas, bittersweet chocolate chips, and packed with whipped cream. Nicely caramelized and crispy along the edges I sensed more of the yeasty and buttery nature of the batter in her batch and also perhaps the scent of nutmeg – I think it was in the batter, but perhaps it was the bananas – either way, it was excellent.

Figuring she would get plenty of opportunity to taste the pancakes my sister opted to try Pamela’s French Toast – specifically the Croissant French Toast featuring two split house made croissants soaked in cinnamon-vanilla egg batter and topped with caramel sauce and nuts. In order to understand how sweet this was you’d have to know my sister – the lady puts syrup on nearly anything that can be consumed for breakfast…and after her first bite she stated “wow, this doesn’t even need syrup!” With Buttery croissants nicely pan crisped, crunchy oven roasted almonds and walnuts, and decadent caramel syrup the best way to describe the dish would be a deconstructed cinnamon roll, but better.

Settling the modest bill and leaving an ample tip we left Pamela’s very content and with blood sugar certainly well above fasting levels – the total duration of our meal was only 45 minutes but it actually felt much longer and not at all rushed. Pleasant service, a nice setting, and a wonderful (albeit limited) menu I only wish Pamela’s would offer some alternative sweeteners and a better brand of syrup…with those minor tweaks a great breakfast could have easily been in consideration for one of the best ever.

Walking away from Pamela’s we realized there was still plenty of time left on the meter and that The Mattress Factory didn’t open for another 40 minutes. Wandering up the strip we noticed a shop we’d seen closed the day prior was now open and decided to stop in to Mon Aimee Chocolat. Greeted by owner Amy Rosenfield the moment we walked in the door I was a bit taken aback – she seemed frustrated…but her mood quickly changing as we entered the shop. Jovial, pleasant, and ready/willing/able to discuss her collection of confections at length it turned out that her original frustration was due to a downed credit card machine and getting the runaround from the IT folks over the phone.

Browsing the shop while Amy dealt with the folks via phone we stood in awe of the diversity of the collection Aero bars from Canada, Amadei from Italy, and even Hershey from right up the road. Vintage to current, house made to international, gums, cookies, caramels, and…Capogiro gelato. Already full of Pamela’s fantastic breakfast we debated (briefly) whether ice cream before 10am was a good idea – a unanimous yes. Selecting two scoops at a somewhat pricey $4.25 our choices were Cappuccino and Cioccolato Scuro (“Bitter.”) Having heard great things about Capogiro but not yet making it to Philadelphia all I can say is that the rumors are true – the flavors were superb, the texture like silk, and the weight light and appealing…the Scuro literally tasted like brownie batter without the doughy texture.

Selecting a few creamy salted caramels, a small bag of housemade chocolate covered blueberries, and a few gifts to take home to my aunt we settled the bill and bid Amy good luck with the tech support. A fantastic store with a selection rivaled by few I’d place Mon Aimee on the “must visit” list for the Strip.

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Mon Aimee Chocolat, Pamela's P+G Diner, Pancakes, Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Vacation

June 28, 2010
10:44 PM
by: Uhockey

Eleven, Pittsburgh PA

Ideally I tend to avoid restaurants owned by a “restaurant group,” especially the groups that seem intent to cover every corner of the culinary globe. Its not that I’m against large conglomerates owning restaurants, it is that they often feel contrived or “put-on” – as if they’re trying to hard to be everything to everyone. With that noted, I must say that there are certainly exceptions like Danny Meyer’s Union Square Restaurant Group in NYC and the LettuceEntertainYou Group in Chicago that have put on outstanding meals – great enough that I felt it requisite to visit at least one of the Big Burrito family during my visit to Pittsburgh.

With most of the collection open for both lunch and dinner I scoured the reviews and the menus – it was honestly a toss-up between Umi, Eleven, and Casbah from the start. In the end it turned out that Umi was closed and I actually preferred Casbah’s lunch menu to dinner…and Eleven apparently had a Chef’s Table Tasting Menu that was largely unadvertised. Calling the restaurant I was informed that the Chef’s Table was generally for groups of 4-6, but if no one had booked it for a given night they’d be willing to seat a solo for the standard price of $100 for 9 courses – placing my reservation a couple weeks in advance I was glad to find out that Mondays were generally quiet and I’d have the table all to myself.

Arriving at the attractive restaurant – high ceilings, glass, and sleek woods galore – just before my 6:30 reservation I was greeted by a pair of smiling hostesses and led immediately to the Chef’s Table – a long wooden booth adjacent to the kitchen. Somewhat disappointed as my only vantage point of the action in the kitchen was through a small slit in the tiles, I was promptly greeted one of two servers who provided the cocktail list and filled my water. Professional and courteous I will note that service throughout the evening was mostly competent, albeit not overwhelming – a course was delivered without silverware, water reached empty twice, plate clearing was a touch slow. Fortunately, as part of the Chef’s Table experience I had the honor of receiving all of my dishes (and excellent descriptions of preparation and ingredient sourcing) from Chef Chad himself.

Drink order placed (a potent yet subtly sweet Effed Up Tom Collins featuring Effen Black Cherry Vodka, Lemon, and Soda,) I sat and chatted with the young chef for a bit – a pleasant and down to earth man it was great to see how excited he was about his menu and sourcing, especially his house cured charcuterie. Asking me about likes and dislikes our dialogue lasted approximately 5 minutes before I was wished “Bon Appetite” and the Chef disappeared to the kitchen.

Shortly after the chef’s departure the bread-lady arrived with a woven basket featuring three house-made breads. Browsing the online list and realizing Eleven takes orders for breads and confections all I can say is that the bread basket gives me a good idea why – all three of the options were excellent. From a sweet yet toothsome Currant Semolina Sourdough, to a rustic and aromatic Carraway Wheat, to a heavenly moist Sea Salt Focaccia each of the options was excellent…and while my primary server wasn’t always on the ball, I was never for want when it came to bread.

Kicking off the tasting menu was a pairing not unlike many amuses bouche – to the left a Beau Soleil Oyster Wrapped in Zucchini and topped with a yuzu gelee, and to the right a foie gras mousse topped with pink peppercorn and strawberry. While somewhat predictable I have to say that the Oyster was one of the better raw preparations I’ve ever had – the briny mollusk tempered nicely by the crisp zucchini and sour cube. The foie gras – it was good, but nothing I hadn’t experienced before, and much smaller.

Dish two would up the ante in terms of size, flavor, and technique. Entitled Salmon with Lemon Miso, Cucumber, and Radish the course paired an excellent slice of sashimi grade line caught King Salmon with crisp cucumber, bitter radish, and a texturally compelling lemon accented miso paste. Drizzled with a spicy sauce highlighted bold accents of jalapeno the overall flavor harkened to a spicy salmon roll.

The third course of the evening would provide the first “wow” of the tasting – an impressive accomplishment given the simplicity of the dish. Served proudly and with great description by Chad the House Cured Prosciutto with Three Sisters Mesclun, Vin Cotto, Olive Oil was sublime – the nutty notes of the silky pork only enhanced by the slightly bitter greens, acidic yet sweet vin cotto, and smooth olive oil. A new passion of the young chef I was even given the opportunity to see the curing area after my meal – a small section of the wine vault with meats aged anywhere from a week to nearly a year – a return visit for charcuterie at the bar would certainly be on my agenda if I lived locally.

Course four would return to fish yet also continue the savory tones of the previous course. Alaska Halibut with Red Pepper, Bacon, Tarragon, Asparagus, and Carrots proved to be a rather straight forward dish – familiar yet well done. Anchored by a nicely seasoned pan seared slice of halibut the addition of fresh vegetables, salty bacon, and spicy red pepper simply served as a reminder that chefs need not always use esoteric ingredients to make a fresh piece of fish taste great.

Dish five would mark the midpoint of the meal and continue to display Chad’s skill with traditional “American” food done right. Again featuring ingredients that were neither unfamiliar nor exotic, Tagliatelle with Lobster, Mascarpone, Asparagus, and Lobster Coral featured snappy and sweet Atlantic lobster, approximately one claw and half a tail, served over nicely prepared hand torn Tagliatelle. Mellowing the sweet protein salty lobster eggs and crisp asparagus added texture and flavor, though I must admit I was a tad confused by why the chef would opt to use the same vegetable in back to back dishes.

A short break followed the pasta and the chef emerged to chat a bit between courses. Largely content although certainly not overwhelmed I was told that the next two courses were two of his favorites. The first, course six, would be another familiar flavor – but also one of the most stunning pieces of poultry I’ve tasted in some time. Described as Heritage Farms Chicken – Salt Roasted with Chanterelles and Savory the dish could not have been more simple or American…it also couldn’t have been much more delicious. Succulent and moist with a crispy skin the chicken itself was flawless. Pairing the fantastic bird with pan crisped woodsy mushrooms and an aromatic sauce – everything felt very “down home” yet at the same time very upscale.

The final savory of the evening would be my favorite, as well. Large in portion and bold in flavor, Elysian Field Farms Lamb – Sous Vide with Crispy Lamb Neck, Anson Mills Polenta, Golden Artichoke, and Mint was marvelous. Nearly raw yet sizzling hot, the lamb itself was not as gamey as would be expected and the crispy wrapping of neck lent plenty of texture and savory flavor. Acting as a bed to the butter-knife soft lamb was a chive laden and creamy polenta with the slightest hints of mint and mace. Flanking the protein along with a savory lamb jus were crispy artichoke hearts – pan seared and creamy within, a vegetal composition not unlike the lamb in terms of presentation.

Following the lamb, course 9 would serve as my cheese course. Browsing the cheeses offered I have to admit I was hoping for Red Hawk as my composed course and I was delighted when the washed, triple cream cow’s milk cheese from Cowgirl Creamery arrived. Entitled Red Hawk, Brioche, Membrillo, Honey, Walnuts this was one of the better single offering composed cheese courses I’ve had the opportunity to enjoy…mostly because the buttery velvet texture of the Red Hawk is just so good on its own and the slightly sweetened brioche was (like everything from Eleven’s bakery) fantastic…and really, quince never fails either.

A long delay followed the cheese course – it was then that I took a tour of the wine/charcuterie room, was treated to a view of the kitchen, and chatted with Chad some more. Returning to my seat I was next greeted by the pastry chef who presented me a trifecta of her favorite desserts from the menu. Titled on the menu as “Tasting” the trio contained miniature versions of Eleven’s Famous Peanut Butter Pretzel Candy Bar, Banana Cream Pie with Tapioca, and Brioche Bread Pudding with Cinnamon and Strawberries. While I will note I’d have preferred received all three as separate courses (time and temperature reasons only) I will also note that the lady has talent – each option was stunning. Creamy peanut butter with chocolate ganache and salty pretzels, caramelized bananas with hand whipped cream and graham crackers…and oh the Bread Pudding. With finger-thick slices of buttery brioche caramelized and doused in a salty cinnamon caramel reduction, the only thing that made it better was the ice cream, a smooth dollop of spicy cinnamon that melted slowly over the hot pudding.

Full but not stuffed I awaited my check while chatting again with the chef – in all honesty I really do think Chad spent a good 30 minutes (of my somewhat expedited 115 minute tasting) either at my table or showing me the facilities. Bidding the chef farewell and congratulating him on a largely successful meal my bill arrived with a small plate of mignardises – Apricot Pate a Fruit, Strawberry Balsamic Pate a Fruit, and a Cocoa rolled Dark Chocolate. Settling the bill and collecting my belongings I made my way to the bar for a short time while awaiting my ride – a nice space, lively, and much more filled than the restaurant proper.

Looking back on dinner at Eleven the word the two words that come to mind are “American” and “Competent.” To be fair, in my experience I’ve never really had a tasting menu that I would call “American” without pronounced flourishes of French or Mediterranean – the Chef’s table at Eleven was almost like going to CUT or a similar high end steak house and getting a tasting…the food varied from very good to excellent, but certainly did not re-invent the wheel. For $100 the quality, presentation, and ingredients were certainly worth the price – but at the same time, I can’t say I would rush back. That said, Chad is an excellent Chef with a lot of potential and the space at Eleven is beautiful – I’d certainly go back for some a la carte selections and dessert anytime.

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Dessert, Eleven, Foie, Food, Lobster, Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Pork, Tasting Menu, Vacation

June 28, 2010
4:27 PM
by: Uhockey

Il Pizzaiolo, Pittsburgh PA

Amongst the many organizations guiding and teaching the production of Neapolitan style pizza the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association is one of the most famous and well regarded. With less than 50 approved locations nationwide and only one in the Midwest region of Michigan/Ohio/West Virginia/Indiana/Pennsylvania I knew that Il Pizzaiolo was a likely visit on our trip to Pittsburgh – the convenience of lunch hours on a Monday made it an absolute must. Arriving around 1:00pm at the small location and scoring yet another free parking space along the street we made our way into the boisterous restaurant and landed the very last open table – the entirety of the restaurant remained full throughout our visit.

Greeted by our server, a friendly college age girl with an ever-present smile, our waters were filled and menus presented while we were left time to decide – time that would be welcome given the large size of the menu and the fact that I would have liked to try at least thirty items. Discussing amongst ourselves while scouring other tables for evidence of portion size we eventually settled on one appetizer, two pastas, and a pizza…we then began the agonizing process of deciding which option sounded best.

Orders finally placed we were next brought the first of two baskets of warm bread. Baked in house the first basket was had only three options while the second arrived with a fourth. With each bread a great example of its particular type the baskets featured a smoky Rustic Italian, buttery Semolina Vienna, amply sour sesame seed crusted Sourdough, and a buttery moist Foccacia. While I rather wish the pairing would have been a nice olive oil as opposed to butter neither were really necessary with all the sauce that required mopping up.

Beginning the meal as the sounds of eager diners bounced around the wonderfully decorated brick and tile interior was a delightful Arancini with creamy arborio rice providing a slightly toothsome contrast to velvety fried Mozzarella. An ample portion for a mere $6 the dish was only enhanced by resting the crispy balls of cheese in a pool of house-made marinara. Remember the comment about the bread – a whole basket was used to dredge the plate clean of the aromatic and slightly acidic sauce.

Appetizers devoured we waited a short time while waiting for our pastas – a somewhat new addition to the formerly all-pizza menu. Selecting two of the eighteen pastas the pair was delivered simultaneously and looking back I still cannot decide which was better. Beginning first with the Paglia E Fieno, a spinach and egg tagliatelle with peas, prosciutto di parma, parmigiano-reggiano, and cream I was stunned by the bouncy texture of the pasta to tooth yet its undeniable melt-in-the-mouth texture upon mastication…al dente done just right. Complimenting the pasta were sweet and snappy peas, a smooth and salty prosciutto, and a pungent parmigiano-reggiano that added texture and pungency. All balanced by a somewhat sweet cream sauce the entire dish was well thought out, well balanced, and divine.

Not to be outdone, Gnocchi Di Ricotta featuring Ricotta Gnocchi, Butter, Sage, and Parmigiana-Reggiano was a dish that would have the three of us fighting for the last dumpling. Simply prepared, as one expects from a rustic dish like gnocchi, the dumplings were undoubtedly the star of the dish – literally melting puddles of potato and ricotta cheese that provided little resistance to tooth, yet enough body to support and absorb the subtly sweet and aromatic sauce. Topped with a quick grating of cheese and cracked black pepper the gnocchi was one of the best I’ve ever tasted – a skilled hand, perfect cooking conditions, and largely un-fussed-with.

Enjoying all the previous efforts so much the “star” of the afternoon was nearly an afterthought – and one heck of an afterthought given that it is where the restaurant made its name. Opting for the Provola with Smoked Mozzarella di bufala, Cherry Tomatoes, Fresh Basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Baby Arugula, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil we watched as the dough emerged from the temperature controlled room, was rolled by hand, topped and was placed inside the stone oven for a mere 90 seconds. Emerging bubbly and charred the pizza was topped with a heap of fresh arugala, drizzled with olive oil and a quick shredding of Parmigiano-Reggiano before being plated and brought to the table. Squeaky and smoky the cheese was a perfect foil for the cornmeal accented and yeasty dough. Crisp and toasted around the circumference of the 13 inche pie and sopping wet at the center each ingredient was pronounced in flavor with the super sweet tomatoes and basil forming the foundation and the bite of the parmigiano and bitterness of the Arugula providing a nice compliment of flavor.

Happy with every aspect of the meal thus far the option for dessert was gluttonous – we were quite full, but necessary. A limited menu of sorbet, gelato, biscotti, tiramisu, and cannoli we opted to order one Cannoli and one slice of Tiramisu and share. Arriving quickly and in ample portion the house made desserts were both presented simply and unadorned. Beginning first with the Tiramisu – a rather standard example with buttery lady fingers, smooth mascarpone, high quality cocoa, ribbons of chocolate, and a hefty shot of rum – it was good, but like many pre-prepared versions it was largely unbalanced with the rum soaking the bottom layer and cream dominating the top. Significantly more impressive was the Cannoli, a crisp and slightly cinnamon accented shell housing a lightly lemon tinged ricotta cream. One end dipped in crushed pistachio, the other in chocolate chips, and sitting atop a bed of hand whipped cream – light, refreshing, and authentic.

Loud without being overwhelming the restaurant runs that fine line of a place like Otto or Mozza – somewhere between fine dining and higher end casual, and it walks the line perfectly. Great service, everything expertly prepared, and prices that fit the quality of the ingredients I was very happy with every aspect of our meal. Honestly, when the pizza, one of the best I’ve ever had was the “worst” savory…that is saying something. Clearly I need to start paying attention to that Verace Pizza Napoletana Association list when I travel.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Gnocchi, Il Pizzaiolo, Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Pizza, Pork, Tiramisu, Vacation

June 28, 2010
1:51 PM
by: Uhockey

Primanti Bros and Enrico Biscotti, Pittsburgh PA

The legend of Primanti Bros. and their original cart in the Strip District in the 1930’s has been well documented – featured on no less than 5 Food Network programs the history of Joe Primanti and his hefty sandwiches loaded with fresh cut fries, sweet slaw, and plenty of toppings is perhaps the most legendary in the Pittsburgh dining scene. Driving up from Columbus early on a Monday morning we decided to kick off our trip with the legendary (albeit revised) original location – a small bar on 18th Street, at the heart of the Strip District. Arriving at 9am we arrived between breakfast and lunch and found easy free parking before making our way into the heavily wooded and entirely homey feeling bar.

Finding the location surprisingly empty (we were the only patrons) I was a bit put off as the two older ladies behind the register eyed us without saying a word. Making our way further into the restaurant and chuckling at the legendary Pittsburgh caricatures lining the walls I rather guessed that the 24-hour nature of Primanti Brothers had left us with employees at the beginning or end of a shift as it actually required a concerted effort to place an order. Not wanting to get filled up as we had a whole day of eating and museum hopping ahead of us we opted for a single sandwich and two “pops” to which our cashier stated “is that it?” almost incredulously.

Undeterred we sat down and waited while our sandwich was prepped, dressed, and brought to the table on white paper. By the time our sandwich had arrived another couple groups had entered the restaurant and our server’s mood began to soften – a little. Presented with a smile our Bacon, Egg, and Cheese sandwich was quite good. Thick yet yielding the white bread provided a great transport medium that stood up well to the sweet and savory slaw, crispy golden fries, salty bacon, creamy egg, and (honestly) somewhat underwhelming cheese. Divided amongst the three of us the sandwich was enough to get a taste of what the restaurant was all about and enough for me to say the food largely makes up for the service. Much like many “legendary” restaurants (Tony Packo’s, Central Grocery, etc) the food at Primanti’s isn’t going to blow your mind – but the setting, style, and experience are definitely something to witness when you’re visiting from out of town.

Making our way out of Primanti’s the next stop on our list was another stop well thought of by locals – Enrico Biscotti Company. Featuring house made, old school, all natural, hand cut Italian treats I rather expected to enter a large rustic space full off cakes, cookies, and confections – and to that end we most certainly weren’t disappointed. Greeted by a friendly young man as we watched two young ladies cut biscotti in the back I asked about a number of items that were not clearly marked and the three of us eventually settled on four separate options. Paying with credit (I was actually amazed how many spots in the Burgh were cash only) we made our way to the car and drove to the National Aviary where we’d enjoy the desserts while waiting for the exhibits to open.

Having heard great things about the Chocolate Ravioli I’d ordered one – or at least I thought I did. Taking a bite we’d clearly received the wrong order as the filling of the crisp and buttery shell yielded candied lemon peel. Tasty, sweet, but definitely not what I’d expected. Moving on to the next taste, a dish described as “Strawberry Soft Biscotti” we were yet again duped, but this time in a good way. Sweet and cakelike this “biscotti” was most certainly not Strawberry but instead a sweet and complex amalgam of maraschino cherry and pistachio. The best of our four options and also the most filling of the group I was quite happy with the biscotti while my mother and sister remained underwhelmed.

Moving on to our second pair of selections, the drier of the options, we started with the “Banana Walnut Biscotti.” Tasting minimally like banana, less like walnut, and mostly like a good sugar cookie all I can say is that it was nicely textured plain biscotti – I’m not sure if this was another mistake in our order or simply a lack of pronounced flavors. Following the biscotti was a “Blackberry drop” Scone – a sugary biscuit with lush pockets of butter and thick whole blackberries – it was excellent.

Throughout the rest of our visit to Pittsburgh we would see Enrico Biscotti at multiple markets, bakeries, and shops – clearly they are not hurting for fame or business, even if they are hurting for competent help at home base. While none of the items we had were bad, only the scone was more impressive than an average quality version of the same thing at any good bakery – perhaps we just went on a bad day or perhaps we ordered wrong…then again, perhaps we ordered right and just got the wrong thing?

Posted in Dessert, Enrico Biscotti, Food, Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Pork, Primanti Bros, Vacation

May 21, 2010
10:19 PM
by: Uhockey

VOLT Table 21, Frederick MD

I’ll be honest – I don’t watch Top Chef, Hell’s Kitchen, or any of those cooking shows…though I do enjoy Iron Chef on occasion. With that fact in mind, when I originally started planning my trip to DC I really did not know much of Bryan Voltaggio as a TV star, only that he owned a somewhat well regarded restaurant in Frederick Maryland that had a very well regarded Chef’s table. Further reading about his seasonal menu focusing on local ingredients, the quaint location in a 19th Century Brownstone in Frederick, and his substantial training at the CiA, at Pic, and under Charlie Palmer put Volt on my radar.

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Having heard that Volt’s Table 21, a 4-seat experience in the kitchen with 21 small bites was booked solid for a year in advance I tempered my expectations – I called and made reservations in the main dining room and placed myself on the wait list for Table 21…less than 21 hours passed before I was called and told the experience had expanded to two seatings of 8 persons each and it would be no trouble at all to visit on May 21st. Excited, I booked the slot – it would be my last meal on my first trip to DC.

Arriving at the charming small town of Frederick around 7:00 and reservations not until 8:30 I browsed the town. Founded in 1745 everything about Frederick looks historic – it is beautiful, the people are friendly, and like Washington Virginia it seems like a place lost in time. With splotches of urban chic dotting the outside of the building I made my way into VOLT’s packed bar by 8:15 and waited…nearly 35 minutes before we were seated – to kill time I starred out the enormous window, checked out the hypermodern restroom, browsed the artwork speckling the lobby, and watched the televised action from the kitchen on display over the bar – the wait was off putting, but I loved the fact that Voltaggio seemed so comfortable letting people watch his kitchen, his craft, and his skills.

After our brief delay we were led to the now famous table – two flying pigs, 7 chefs and sous chefs, and two “dining room tables” to the left. The first to arrive I was offered first seat choice – the one closest to the kitchen. Greeted by the Frederick native with a sincere apology for being late we were told the menu had just changed, we’d be experiencing things that only the table before us had tasted. With that statement uttered we were asked about food intolerances and allergies, offered a beverage list, and greeted by the rest of the staff. Without going into tons of detail about the service I will note that compared to Vidalia24 or Ko, the chef’s table experience is slightly different at Table 21 – you watch everything being cooked not just for you, but for the main restaurant. Additionally, Voltaggio’s interaction with the crowd is minimal – his focus on the food and kitchen is very pure, though I will note he was quite fun and witty with the dishes he did serve – his ancillary staff was more conversive, though certainly not on the level of RJ at Vidalia but much preferable to the crew at Ko.

Beginning the menu was a cocktail, course one called Sparkling Mint Lemonade, Crown Royal, Strawberry Foam. A nice opening volley the dish was served in a martini glass with the cool Mojito-esque beverage topped with a whipped foam from a canister that tasted of strawberries with the bitter undertone of crown royal – tasty, light, refreshing.

Prosciutto chips, Potato dip came next. Now a signature of the Table21 menu the dish features crispy prosciutto and a dip that tasted like sour cream and mashed potatoes. It was as good as advertised with the savory pork nearly melting in the mouth (not jerky like, as expected) and the creamy dip light and well balanced.

Course three provided the first “wow” moment of the night as we were served Tuna, Cilantro, Avocado, Soy, Yuzu, Wasabi Whitefish Roe. Tender Toro wrapped in a paper-thin sheet of jicama was nicely complimented by a creamy yuzu-soy puree . What set the dish off, however, was the salty whitefish roe that chef Voltaggio said had been packed in wasabi – hot as hell, but briny at the same time, a little went a long way.

The followup dish was good, but also sort of disappointing in that it would be the only tasting of Foie Gras for the evening. Celeriac Macaroon, Vanilla, Foie Gras was a single bite – an airy meringue of celeriac stuffed with creamy liver and topped with shavings of fresh vanilla bean. Smooth and creamy, delicious for sure, but I could have handled a basket of them.

A short time would pass as we chatted with the sous-chefs before the right half of the kitchen would produce the second stunner of the evening – Green Grape Gazpacho, Yogurt, Rock Shrimp. Served chilled the Gazpacho tasted like white grape juice blended with cucumber – cool and refreshing – and adding sweetness was a dollop of red grape sorbet. Finished tableside by adding a steaming hot shrimp and a cube of liquid nitrogen frozen yogurt the dish was one of those “how did they think of that” moments that worked so very well.

1/4 of the way into the meal the sommelier noticed I wasn’t drinking wine with the folks next to me – up till then he’d never even addressed me (though I’d have not been drinking anyhow) and since there are no wine pairings the couples next to me were drinking by the bottle. Addressing his error I declined alcohol and he could “whip me up” something, to which I agreed. During the course of the meal he would present me with two beverages – Sparkling Apple Cider and OJ and Disco Lemonade with Sprite, Rosemary, Lemon, Pineapple, Soda. While both were quite tasty I was a little (only a little) off-put when I was charged $5 each at the end of the meal – it felt a little underhanded given the manner in which it was offered (and the fact that non-alcoholic pairings are included at Vidalia for $120.)

Course six would be another signature, the Chicken Parmesan with Tomato Fennel Dipping Dots and Opal Basil. Featuring a crispy boneless wing, parmesan noodle, frozen tomato dipping dots, olive oil, and parmesan plus salt added at presentation the flavors were spot on for traditional Parm in an untraditional manner – mg a la Moto, and quite tasty.

Seven would mark, in my opinion, the weakest flavor of the night. It’s not that Cherry Glen Farm Goat Cheese Ravioli, Celeriac, Maitake Mushroom, Sage was bad – it is just that it tasted “common,” like standard mushroom soup, a little creamy, a lot earthy…good, but not special.

Next, a return to interesting – and more so because it comprised another dish I truly enjoyed containing Rhubarb. Halibut, Asparagus Risotto, Rhubarb, Ginger reminded me of the risotto without rice at Manresa in that it featured finely chopped asparagus with the texture of risotto of a base. Over top the pseudo-risotto was a quickly seared slice of mild fish, the flavor well paired with the sweet poached rhubarb and characteristically aromatic ginger.

The next dish was wonderful, perfectly prepared and visually stunning. Topped with chopped lavender the Sturgeon, Cauliflower Variations, Verjus, Beluga lentils was the best piece of Sturgeon I’ve had since my visit to Gramercy Tavern – meaty and crisp, hefty and clean. Beneath the fish was crispy white cauliflower and steamed green/yellow cauliflower plus creamy and toothsome lentils. Bringing the whole dish together, an acidic verjus added tableside.

Next course, more fish – the first of a back to back “surf n’ turf” concept…unfortunately it was not very good. Entitled Salmon, Apple Wood Smoked Bacon, Sunchoke the salmon was unfortunately a bit overcooked – crispy on the exterior, but rather dry within. Additionally, as a “balance” to the meaty fish there was creamy bacon infused sunchoke puree, greens, and a seared spring onion that was so potent it almost brought a tear to my eye – really, not balancing at all, but rather overpowering.

A bit taken aback by the onions I tried first to clear my palate with some water with little success. Having seen the breads coming from the kitchen to the other tables I inquired if I might have some bread to dislodge the taste and to my surprise the answer was not only “certainly,” but my request led to the servers initiating bread service at Table 21, something they said they “never” do because people end up getting too full. With the other diners agreeing that they’d like bread we were all served butter – a pleasant locally sourced cow’s milk base, followed by a basket of no less than six options. Amongst my selections during the meal were a Sea Salt Roll, Chive Buttermilk Biscuit, Bacon Thyme Brioche, and Whole Wheat Proscuitto infused Sourdough – all great, all served warm from the oven of the pastry department.

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While the salmon was not a hit, the followup surf and turf would prove to be my favorite savory of the night and one of the best dishes I’ve had in 2010 – Sweetbread and Scallop, Meyer Lemon, Caper, Tuna. Served over an Alinea-esque sauce sheet of lemon and tuna the scallop was flawless – nearly raw inside, buttery and caramelized on the surface. Paired with two crispy coated sweetbreads and complimented by caper powder and veal jus the tastes lit up all parts of the palate.

The next dish (and all the savories to follow) was another hit – it was called the favorite by all three diners next to myself when Chef Voltaggio asked at the end of the night. Head Cheese, Pickled Ramps, Crystal Lettuce, Truffle Vinaigrette was a house-made slice of headcheese, melted collagen and characteristic gamey taste aplomb paired with sour ramps, earthy and aromatic vinaigrette, and lettuce for texture – with Voltaggio noting VOLT’s plans to focus on more in house charcuterie in the future I imagine this dish will please many more palates in the coming months.

Pork Belly, Calypso Beans, Moustarda, Sorrel would arrive next and prove to be nearly on par with the Sweetbreads and Scallops. With an agar agar sheet of barbeque sauce atop the pork I personally loved the manner in which the fatty belly paired with the fibrous beans while the Moustarda added an almost “applesauce” flavor to this comfort-food inspired plate.

A light course followed all the heavy meats – an intermission of sorts to prepare us for the two main proteins. Beets, Goat Cheese Mousse, Upland Cress, Banyuls was a fantastic dish featuring a dehydrated beat stick (think Cheeto in texture, sugar beet in flavor,) two types of poached beets, a creamy cheesy mousse, greens, and a savory balsamic. With beet salads being all the rage in fine dining this was one of the better examples I’ve had.

Fifteen – Lamb, Eggplant Caponata, Pepper, Curry – was excellent, just as I’ve come to expect of anything from Elysian Fields. A 2oz slice of lamb, lean and grassy, centered the plate and sat in a small pool of aromatic saffron curry sauce. A dollop of spicy red pepper, a pile of chopped eggplant, and crisp mushrooms completed the simple yet reined flavors of the dish quite well.

Our final savory was a “why not” for me – after the A7 at Vidalia24 and the Chateaubriand at Citronelle I’ve rethought my stance on beef; while a charred porterhouse is never going to do it for me, I’m much more open to a 1-2oz slice of beef at a fine dining establishment (especially on a long tasting menu.) From Voltaggio we received Pineland Farm Beef with Farro Risotto, Spring Ramps, Morel Mushrooms, Carrots, perhaps the most “simple” savory of the weekend this dish would’ve fit just as nicely at Daniel as at Volt. Fatty, mild,and sweet the aged beef was served rare – by itself it was great. Joining the steak in our “main course” was an earthy risotto that tasted almost like savory quinoa, a carrot, and morel/ramps rendered in a pan with the pan drippings of the beef.

With others wowed by the beef and myself quite pleased overall we moved on towards cheese and dessert – coffee orders were placed and a press pot of fantastic locally roasted Highland Grog would arrive shortly after the cheese course, Point Reyes Blue Cheese, Almond, Apple, Balsamic. A small and unique preparation the pungent cheese was well met by the dehydrated apple slices and almond powder while the balsamic added just enough acidity to make the single bite memorable.

Dulce De Leche, Caramel, Granny Smith Apple would serve as our first dessert – to say the pastry kitchen at Volt is good would be an understatement. Featuring a creamy caramel cheesecake bite, apple sorbet, dehydrated dulce de leche, and a crunchy toffee bark the flavors were largely caramel apple but the variation in textures, temperatures, and flavors were much more complex.

The second dessert, course 19, would be Pistachio, Strawberries, Ginger, Basil – it would be the most memorable course of the meal (savory or sweet.) Featuring strawberry glass noodles and balls of strawberry as the base the addition of liquid nitrogen frozen ginger ice cream, pistachio powder, and small leaves of basil created a vegetal rollercoaster of an experience – the presentation something out of a molecular gastronomy text and the flavors befitting a modernized Italian fruit course.

Dish twenty was expected as it has, in one form or another, been a staple of Table 21 from the start. Though not as intricate as the version at Vidalia24 the Textures of Chocolate, Caramel, Chocolate Ice Cream was tasty – dark ganache, milk ice cream, 80% chip – each high quality and an ample match for the hefty coffee.

Completing the menu would be a course of mignardises – served per person as opposed to centered like Vidalia our selections were an Almond Macaron with Coffee Cream, White Peach and Vanilla pate a fruit, White Chocolate with orange cream, and a Raspberry Vacherin. With each a good example of their respective genre, I particularly loved the Vacherin – a melt in the mouth custard that exuded the very essence of raspberry and the pate a fruit which tasted like peaches and cream concentrated into a single potent bite.

Delivered with the bill would be a present to take home, a 22nd course, if you will – a Lemon Poppyseed Muffin. Good, but not particularly memorable I shared it with the family on the way home from Frederick.

When it was all said and done I left Volt’s Table 21 and definitely understood the considerable hype the experience has received – the food, save for one boring course and one overpowered by onion, was superb and the constant evolution of the menu is admirable to say the very least. While some people may be impressed by the celebrity of it all, Chef Bryan doesn’t really seem to buy into it – his attention to the kitchen remained nearly undivided at all time. For me, the highlight of the experience outside of the food was actually watching the manner in which the kitchen flowed – between the tasting menu, the a la carte, Table 21, and the Chef’s tables there were literally four services going on simultaneously and everything went off without a hitch. In the end I still have to say I preferred other meals on my trip to DC but I would most definitely recommend the trip to Frederick should anyone manage to secure a seat at Table 21 – the rest of the food coming out of the kitchen looked pretty darn good, too.

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Foie, Food, Frederick, Ice Cream, Macaroon, Maryland, Pork, Sushi, Table 21, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation, VOLT

May 21, 2010
4:16 PM
by: Uhockey

Ristorante Tosca, Washington DC

Gun-shy to “fine-dining” Italian outside of New York and a few select spots elsewhere I had originally planned to conclude our myriad lunches in the DC area with Korean or Ethiopian food – I had considered this until a trusted gourmand suggested that the Northern Italian fare of Massimo Fabbri at Ristorante Tosca was the best he’d ever had in the US and on par with all but the best of Italy. A fan moreso of pasta and antipasti than secondi in Italian dining I was additionally intrigued by seasonal menu of hand made pastas with focus on local ingredients and Fabbri’s creative interpretations of classic Italian dishes. With the restaurant located in Penn Quarter just steps from other destinations on our day’s agenda Tosca seemed ideal.

Arriving moments early for our noon reservation we entered Tosca and instantly felt underdressed for the occasion. An eggshell white interior, white table cloths, beige carpets – the whole restaurant felt serene in its monochromatic presentation, yet unfussy with lively colored prints lining the walls. Similarly monochromatic were the well suited businessmen filling the tables to capacity and the tuxedoed waiters standing in attention. Greeted by the young receptionist I was grateful to not feel judged – as a matter of fact she was quite pleasant and led us to a fine table in the middle of the main dining room. Water choices offered (still vs. sparkling) we opted for still. Moments later our waiter would arrive with menus and a description of the daily specials – left to decide I suddenly found myself with quite a dilemma – there were at least fifteen things I wanted to try.

Browsing the menu and debating the best way to try as many dishes as possible we were surprised when the bread service appeared along with iced tea for my mother and aunt. A stellar basket paired with a smooth and nearly citrus olive oil we were treated to warm Ciabatta, Sourdough, and Whole Wheat in the first basket with a second basket arriving later containing a Rosemary Garlic Bread, Olive Sourdough, and more Ciabatta. Crusty and well prepared the bread service at Tosca was perhaps the best I experienced on my drip to DC – the Olive Oil, too, was excellent. With orders placed we sat back and awaited our main courses while browsing the room – normally a well dressed individual the number of tailored suits made me self conscious despite a short sleeved buttoned shirt and slacks, but again, that was on me not the restaurant (I’d still wear a suit if I were to return.)

Arriving first, along with our second bread basket, was my appetizer – Molecche di baia in crosta di farina integrale con ragu di pisellini, aglio orsino e fagiolini “cera” or Soft shell crab in a whole wheat crust, with sautéed English peas, ramps and yellow wax beans. Split as compared to the whole preparations at Eve and CityZen the crab was once again beautiful, clean, and sweet. Paired with a buttery lemon emulsion that I drizzled gingerly over the crustacean the effect of the sweet peas, vegetal beans, and pungent ramps came to life. While certainly a more traditional presentation of softshell than the others, the flavor was excellent.

Arriving after approximately 20 minutes (and more bread) was a parade of three pastas and one risotto. The first, Tagliatelle al nero di seppia con polpa di granchio, carciofi e aglio arrosto (Black ink tagliatelle with jumbo crab lump meat ragu, artichokes and roasted garlic) was ordered by my sister and it was the showstopper in terms of presentation and color palate. Al dente, mildly salty and thick the pasta was fantastic – pairing it with the sweet white crab flesh, golden garlic, crispy green artichokes, and acidic rouge tomatoes – fresh, simple, and all the better for it.

Continuing the trend of using top notch ingredients in simple complementary manners was Gnocchi di ricotta e patate con ragu di Luganega, Pecorino e pomodorini al forno (Ricotta gnocchi with Luganega sausage, oven dried cherry tomatoes, Pecorino cheese and black pepper.) A fan of gnocchi I’d planned to order this dish until my aunt did so – thankfully she can never finish a dish and I got my fill. Fluffy pillows of potato that gave to the simple pressure of the tongue the gnocchi were amongst the best I’ve ever had. Pairing the delicate dumplings with the mild pork cheek sausage, acidic tomatoes, and savory cheese plus black pepper cracked tableside added a bit of spice and nuance but overall the flavor profile was that of a pork ragu.

For mother, Risotto con aragosta, basilico e ricotta fatta in casa (Risotto with lobster, basil and house made ricotta cheese.) What the dish lacked in presentation, essentially orange on orange with flecks of green, it made up for in flavor and texture. Crisp, buttery, snappy lobster paired with creamy, toothsome, and smooth risotto – perhaps the simplest dish of the afternoon but also perhaps the most decadent.

For my order I opted to go with Fabbri’s signature, the Pappardelle alla carota biologica con ragu di coniglio locale e timo fresco (Carrot flavored pappardelle with a rabbit ragu in a white wine sauce and fresh thyme.) With hand cut pasta full of bounce and texture providing only minimal resistance to mastication the flavor of carrot was there, but subtle. Served over top the pappardelle was a savory ragu of chopped rabbit saddle, braised in wine and thyme plus a dollop of olive oil. Light yet flavorful with the characteristic gamey flavor of rabbit balanced beautifully by the sweetened wine and aromatic thyme – a dish worthy of the title “signature” to say the least.

The only logical answer to the question “can I interest you in something sweet” after such fantastic pastas was “absolutely.” Browsing the menu again led to indecision given the number of excellent options and we once again settled it by each ordering something different. First, for my mother, the Crostata di rababraro e fragole con semifreddo ai limoni Meyer a salsa ai pistacchi (Strawberry and rhubarb crostata with Meyer lemon semifreddo and pistachio sauce.) While I personally would have never ordered this dish, my mother loves both lemon and rhubarb and as such this was a must. A sizable tart – fibrous and tangy with a buttery crust – sat adjacent to a lovely and smooth whipped lemon cream, the two divided by a line tasting akin to pistachio pudding. Dissimilar tastes yet impressively paired – it was good, and mom loved it.

My aunt’s selection was Tart tatin alla banana con gelato alla crema acida e salsa alla nutella (Banana tart tatin with crème fraiche ice cream and nutella sauce) and, to be fair, I’m pretty sure there was no “tart” to be found. Featuring well ripened bananas caramelized in a sauce of chocolate and hazelnut the plated circle of banana sat above a creamy banana pudding studded with vanilla cookie. Topping the “tart” in addition to the nutella sauce was a smooth and tangy ice cream, light in flavor but weighty in texture.

Figuring my sister would order the Tiramisu I was surprised when she instead opted for the Tortino al cioccolato caldo con granita alle mirtilli, mirtilli canditi e panna montata (Warm chocolate cake with blueberry granita, sugared blueberries and whipped cream) but as it turns out, she ordered the best dessert of the meal. While the concept of lava cake seems tried and tired to me, this version was different – more a disk of dark chocolate with a crispy exterior and an interior fluffy like a croissant. Light, the cake paired wonderfully with the icy blueberries and pillow of whipped cream.

With Erika opting to forgo the Tiramisu my choice was easy – it was again Chef Fabbri’s signature dish, the Tiramisu tiepido moderno (Chef’s modernized tiramisu.) Served in a glass the dish went layer by layer – good, great, fantastic. A creamy rum pudding dusted with cocoa atop, espresso-laden ladyfingers beneath, creamy and chilled mascarpone at the base. With chunks of chocolate strewn within for texture and the unique design preventing the pooling of alcohol that often mars such presentations the texture was familiar yet dynamic – classic, yet inspired.

Paying the tab we walked out of Tosca full and tremendously happy – my family because they love Italian, myself because I’d found another great fine dining Italian spot to add to a short list. Some call it an expense account lunch – I call it every bit worth the price. Fantastic pastas, clever and unique desserts, superior service, a pleasant setting, and great memories with family – even if everyone else in the room is talking business and going back to work in an hour.…in my opinion that is what Italian food is all about.

Posted in Bread Basket, Crab, DC, Gnocchi, Italian, Lobster, Pork, Ristorante Tosca, Tiramisu, Washington