Gun-shy to “fine-dining” Italian outside of New York and a few select spots elsewhere I had originally planned to conclude our myriad lunches in the DC area with Korean or Ethiopian food – I had considered this until a trusted gourmand suggested that the Northern Italian fare of Massimo Fabbri at Ristorante Tosca was the best he’d ever had in the US and on par with all but the best of Italy.A fan moreso of pasta and antipasti than secondi in Italian dining I was additionally intrigued by seasonal menu of hand made pastas with focus on local ingredients and Fabbri’s creative interpretations of classic Italian dishes. With the restaurant located in Penn Quarter just steps from other destinations on our day’s agenda Tosca seemed ideal.
Arriving moments early for our noon reservation we entered Tosca and instantly felt underdressed for the occasion.An eggshell white interior, white table cloths, beige carpets – the whole restaurant felt serene in its monochromatic presentation, yet unfussy with lively colored prints lining the walls.Similarly monochromatic were the well suited businessmen filling the tables to capacity and the tuxedoed waiters standing in attention.Greeted by the young receptionist I was grateful to not feel judged – as a matter of fact she was quite pleasant and led us to a fine table in the middle of the main dining room.Water choices offered (still vs. sparkling) we opted for still.Moments later our waiter would arrive with menus and a description of the daily specials – left to decide I suddenly found myself with quite a dilemma – there were at least fifteen things I wanted to try.
Browsing the menu and debating the best way to try as many dishes as possible we were surprised when the bread service appeared along with iced tea for my mother and aunt.A stellar basket paired with a smooth and nearly citrus olive oil we were treated to warm Ciabatta, Sourdough, and Whole Wheat in the first basket with a second basket arriving later containing a Rosemary Garlic Bread, Olive Sourdough, and more Ciabatta.Crusty and well prepared the bread service at Tosca was perhaps the best I experienced on my drip to DC – the Olive Oil, too, was excellent.With orders placed we sat back and awaited our main courses while browsing the room – normally a well dressed individual the number of tailored suits made me self conscious despite a short sleeved buttoned shirt and slacks, but again, that was on me not the restaurant (I’d still wear a suit if I were to return.)
Arriving first, along with our second bread basket, was my appetizer – Molecche di baia in crosta di farina integrale con ragu di pisellini, aglio orsino e fagiolini “cera” or Soft shell crab in a whole wheat crust, with sautéed English peas, ramps and yellow wax beans.Split as compared to the whole preparations at Eve and CityZen the crab was once again beautiful, clean, and sweet.Paired with a buttery lemon emulsion that I drizzled gingerly over the crustacean the effect of the sweet peas, vegetal beans, and pungent ramps came to life.While certainly a more traditional presentation of softshell than the others, the flavor was excellent.
Arriving after approximately 20 minutes (and more bread) was a parade of three pastas and one risotto.The first, Tagliatelle al nero di seppia con polpa di granchio, carciofi e aglio arrosto (Black ink tagliatelle with jumbo crab lump meat ragu, artichokes and roasted garlic) was ordered by my sister and it was the showstopper in terms of presentation and color palate.Al dente, mildly salty and thick the pasta was fantastic – pairing it with the sweet white crab flesh, golden garlic, crispy green artichokes, and acidic rouge tomatoes – fresh, simple, and all the better for it.
Continuing the trend of using top notch ingredients in simple complementary manners was Gnocchi di ricotta e patate con ragu di Luganega, Pecorino e pomodorini al forno (Ricotta gnocchi with Luganega sausage, oven dried cherry tomatoes, Pecorino cheese and black pepper.)A fan of gnocchi I’d planned to order this dish until my aunt did so – thankfully she can never finish a dish and I got my fill.Fluffy pillows of potato that gave to the simple pressure of the tongue the gnocchi were amongst the best I’ve ever had.Pairing the delicate dumplings with the mild pork cheek sausage, acidic tomatoes, and savory cheese plus black pepper cracked tableside added a bit of spice and nuance but overall the flavor profile was that of a pork ragu.
For mother, Risotto con aragosta, basilico e ricotta fatta in casa (Risotto with lobster, basil and house made ricotta cheese.)What the dish lacked in presentation, essentially orange on orange with flecks of green, it made up for in flavor and texture.Crisp, buttery, snappy lobster paired with creamy, toothsome, and smooth risotto – perhaps the simplest dish of the afternoon but also perhaps the most decadent.
For my order I opted to go with Fabbri’s signature, the Pappardelle alla carota biologica con ragu di coniglio locale e timo fresco (Carrot flavored pappardelle with a rabbit ragu in a white wine sauce and fresh thyme.)With hand cut pasta full of bounce and texture providing only minimal resistance to mastication the flavor of carrot was there, but subtle.Served over top the pappardelle was a savory ragu of chopped rabbit saddle, braised in wine and thyme plus a dollop of olive oil.Light yet flavorful with the characteristic gamey flavor of rabbit balanced beautifully by the sweetened wine and aromatic thyme – a dish worthy of the title “signature” to say the least.
The only logical answer to the question “can I interest you in something sweet” after such fantastic pastas was “absolutely.”Browsing the menu again led to indecision given the number of excellent options and we once again settled it by each ordering something different.First, for my mother, the Crostata di rababraro e fragole con semifreddo ai limoni Meyer a salsa ai pistacchi (Strawberry and rhubarb crostata with Meyer lemon semifreddo and pistachio sauce.)While I personally would have never ordered this dish, my mother loves both lemon and rhubarb and as such this was a must.A sizable tart – fibrous and tangy with a buttery crust – sat adjacent to a lovely and smooth whipped lemon cream, the two divided by a line tasting akin to pistachio pudding.Dissimilar tastes yet impressively paired – it was good, and mom loved it.
My aunt’s selection was Tart tatin alla banana con gelato alla crema acida e salsa alla nutella (Banana tart tatin with crème fraiche ice cream and nutella sauce) and, to be fair, I’m pretty sure there was no “tart” to be found.Featuring well ripened bananas caramelized in a sauce of chocolate and hazelnut the plated circle of banana sat above a creamy banana pudding studded with vanilla cookie.Topping the “tart” in addition to the nutella sauce was a smooth and tangy ice cream, light in flavor but weighty in texture.
Figuring my sister would order the Tiramisu I was surprised when she instead opted for the Tortino al cioccolato caldo con granita alle mirtilli, mirtilli canditi e panna montata (Warm chocolate cake with blueberry granita, sugared blueberries and whipped cream) but as it turns out, she ordered the best dessert of the meal.While the concept of lava cake seems tried and tired to me, this version was different – more a disk of dark chocolate with a crispy exterior and an interior fluffy like a croissant.Light, the cake paired wonderfully with the icy blueberries and pillow of whipped cream.
With Erika opting to forgo the Tiramisu my choice was easy – it was again Chef Fabbri’s signature dish, the Tiramisu tiepido moderno (Chef’s modernized tiramisu.)Served in a glass the dish went layer by layer – good, great, fantastic.A creamy rum pudding dusted with cocoa atop, espresso-laden ladyfingers beneath, creamy and chilled mascarpone at the base.With chunks of chocolate strewn within for texture and the unique design preventing the pooling of alcohol that often mars such presentations the texture was familiar yet dynamic – classic, yet inspired.
Paying the tab we walked out of Tosca full and tremendously happy – my family because they love Italian, myself because I’d found another great fine dining Italian spot to add to a short list. Some call it an expense account lunch – I call it every bit worth the price. Fantastic pastas, clever and unique desserts, superior service, a pleasant setting, and great memories with family – even if everyone else in the room is talking business and going back to work in an hour.…in my opinion that is what Italian food is all about.
With an old friend of my mother’s coming in via rail from Baltimore for breakfast and a bus tour my sister, aunt, and I were left to explore the early morning of our last day in DC together. Wanting a quick but not substantially large breakfast we decided to stop by Bistro Bis – largely because of the solid reviews, but also because it was a convenient walk to the Capitol building. Arriving around 7:30am we made our way into the deceivingly small entrance to find a large expanse of a dining room – many tables with suited clients reading the paper, drinking coffee, or talking business. Greeted by a pleasant hostess we were escorted to an enormous booth towards the back of the restaurant where we had a nice view of the kitchen – though not much was going on.
Seated for only moments before our server arrived, a friendly enough chap named Moises, menus were presented – a significantly truncated menu compared to that of the online Brunch menu. Inquiring whether the Croque Madame was available I was told “no, that is only offered on the weekend and it is A-MAY-ZING.” Disappointed but understanding I looked for a suitable replacement and in the mean time ordered a coffee while my aunt and sister opted for tea. Returning moments later with our drinks, a decent albeit forgetable house blend and a box of designer teas, orders were placed and we sat and listened to the lowkey background of a large party discussing local school legislation.
Waiting less than 20 minutes before Moises would return with our breakfast selections I will note that the ancillary staff at Bis was quite good – coffee and water remained full without need for request and all tables appeared well staffed.When Moises did return with our dishes they were presented nicely and everything looked fresh – but pricey and boring for the price.For myself, the most unique option of the trimmed menu, a “Bakery Basket” featuring a miniature croissant, a smaller yet apple Danish, and a slice of cinnamon gingerbread approximately 1/2 the size of a deck of playing cards.Accompanying the breads were a whipped butter, Orange Marmalade, Strawberry Rhubarb jelly – the jellies were quite good.
For my aunt and sister – A waffle with bacon and sourdough French toast, respectively.At $18 and $14 these selections were honestly no better than Denny’s.Sure, the ingredients were likely better and the setting nicer, but for $32 I truly do believe I could have made better at home.
In the end, our bill with tip was $61 – outrageous for the quality and quantity of the food.I realize there is something to be said about location, but there is also something to be said about “bang for your buck” and in that sense Bistro Bis was severely lacking.
In planning the family trip to DC it must be noted that the trip itself was functioning as Christmas, Graduation, and Birthday for me – I worked overnight call for every major holiday this year and as such requested each family member to dine with me somewhere in DC during our visit as my gift – similarly I took them all out for their respective holidays…”stuff” gathers dusts while memories of special times with family last a lifetime.For the final meal of the big three I knew a bit of planning would be necessary – to call my aunt an unadventurous eater would be an understatement.Having heard of the legendary service at Michel Richard’s Citronelle I opted to e-mail ahead to see what could be done for a picky eater and what followed was one of the most impressive displays of hospitality I’ve ever encountered.
Conversing extensively with General Manager and Maitre d’ Jean-Jacques Retourné prior to our visit in order to be certain I could enjoy the Promanade Gourmand while my Aunt opted for less food (and less adventure) I was assured “we can definitely do something to that effect” – they even went so far as to offer to let me customize the Gourmand for myself.Delighted with Mr. Retourne’s service and communications we planned for a 7:00pm dinner in the main dining room and arrived early to scope out the Georgetown area.After a short walk we made our way into the Latham Hotel through the Citronelle Bar area, a pleasant space with many folks enjoying cocktails and small bites before being greeted by a host who led us to a great seat overlooking the entire dining room and the enormous and gleaming kitchen.
Moments after seating we were greeted by Jean-Jacques himself – a pleasant man with a long history of serving in Chef Richard’s restaurants and, for all intents and purposes, an expert in the field of hospitality.Pleasant, jovial, and conversant he introduced us to our servers for the evening and presented us with customized menus – 4 courses for my aunt, 9 courses for myself.Already waiting with baited breath we were offered cocktails, an offer we gladly accepted, and we proceeded to order one each – for Aunt Michel’s Cosmopolitan with Absolut Citron, Cointreau, Cranberry Juice, Drunken Raspberries and for myself the Bubbly Martini – Absolut Citron, Marinated Cherries, French Champagne.Heavy on the alcohol I must say the house cured fruits added great nuance to the drinks, but for a lightweight like myself they were still a bit “hard.”Sitting back we waited only moments before the grandeur of Citronelle would be on full display.
With napkins folded each time someone rose for the restroom, water filled as if by an invisible hand, and frequent check-ins by everyone from the Maitre d’ to the waiter to the runners the service at Citronelle was beyond reproach – elegance with charm, refined with a sense of humor…much like Chef Richard’s cuisine.To begin, for our Amuses Bouche we were served different items – first for my aunt a trio consisting of Ratatouille Taco, Daikon with Potato and Prosciutto, and a Salmon Mousse Cupcake.Varying textures, temperatures, and a progression of flavors from vegetal to savory to sweet the small taste I had of each was good – and for amuses, each portion was impressive.I particularly loved the cupcake with the small orange salmon eggs atop – akin to a bagel with lox, but more playful and sweet.
For my amuse, on an excellent illuminated “plate” that drew stares from across the room, I was served Asparagus Tartare with Black Truffle and Asparagus , Potato, and Egg Veloute.The first served in an egg cut lengthwise and the second served in a leg cut down the middle, one hot and one cold, one a crunchy salad and the other a creamy and buttery soup.One of the best conceptualized amuses I’ve ever tasted.Served along with the amuses was a crisp sourdough – similar to, but served with creamier and sweeter butter, the version at Central…the bread would be ever replenished, just like the designer bottled water.
Beginning our proper tasting was a plate a piece, aunt receiving larger portions, myself receiving more courses.For Aunt, Goat Cheese Ravioli, Mushroom Broth – simple in title but without a doubt the most shockingly delicious option of the evening.With seven small and creamy Ravioli hidden beneath a “meadow of spring vegetables” the dish was finished tableside with a creamy mushroom broth and smelled like the very essence of earth.Fresh carrots, peppers, zucchini, and celery forming the “meadow,” the flavors came alive with the broth and were well balanced by the creaminess of the cheese.
For my first course I received one of Chef Richard’s signature dishes – the whimsical Lobster Begula Pasta – a pseudo-caviar experience based on a misspelling in the chef’s past.Utilizing small squid ink orzo to form the roe, the warm pasta laid atop a layer of butter poached lobster and poached fresh croutons of brioche for texture.Classic flavors served in a playful manner, even the ice was an effect – they were actually cubes of glass.The effect of the dish – wonderful.
With Aunt resting for a course my next dish was served shortly after our plates were collected – it was perhaps the dish I looked forward to the most of the evening and it did not disappoint.Entitled Foie Gras Roulade with Duck Rillettes the dish itself featured a round disk of foie gras pâté surrounded by a smooth and spicy duck rillet.Heavy and unctuous the Foie was flawlessly prepared and unlike the quail in a jar at Per Se it was expertly balanced with the rillet, neither overshadowing the other.Surrounding the liver and protein was a circle of beet and passion fruit emulsion – sweet but earthy, and laying across the disk was a rice crispy treat…a little sweet, a lot crunchy, a great texture.Served alongside the dish was another surprise, a matching disk of buttery brioche served atop a steaming hot stone.
Halibut with Vegetable Tart, Lobster-Saffron Broth would arrive next for myself – utilizing a firm and clean flavored slice of the mild fish with crispy skin the kitchen once again showed a deft hand with their proteins.Serving to not only enhance but improve the flavor of the mild fish, I was very pleased with the seemingly Indian inspired flavor of the buttery lobster sauce.With a pea pod, peeled tomato, and summer squash thrown in for texture and some vegetal accents I liked the dish even though it wasn’t as exemplary as the prior dishes…when a great piece of well prepared fish is your worst dish of the meal the kitchen is doing something very right.
Arriving next, a larger version for my aunt and the miniature version for myself, would be Michel’s Lobster Burger with Yukon Gold Chips.With well textured and buttery crustacean balanced on a sweet brioche bun with potato tuilles, tomato confit and house-made mayonnaise the burger was every bit as good as advertised – crispy, supple, and decadent to an extreme.The chips – wafer thin – the very essence of butter and salt on a crisp delivery vehicle.
Lamb Rack with Jalapeno-Cumin Sauce would follow the burger – it would prove to redefine the manner in which lamb should be served.The lamb was flawless – a subtle bit of gamey flavor and easily cut with the side of a fork, but when paired with the savory/spicy/pungent/aromatic green sauce at its base it was as if the entire palate was awakened.Interestingly, tasted on its own (dipping some sourdough) the sauce wasn’t as excellent – it was as though it was made to be served with this very piece of lamb.The accompaniments, a crispy sunchoke and parmesan potato crisp were nice, but largely insignificant to the brilliance of the lamb/sauce pairing.
What came next, both my dish and my aunt’s, was the true testament of the kitchen’s skill – one a classic all fancied up, the other not as classic, but every bit as impressive.First, for my aunt, the Chateaubriand, Tater Tots, Mushrooms, Horseradish – a large portion of the most tender beef to ever touch my tongue.Yes, I realize I don’t normally eat beef, but when my aunt (who doesn’t like rare presentations) was ooh-and-aahing a piece of rouge protein I had to see what the fuss was all about.Smoky and savory with an almost ham-like texture the beef melded elegantly with the horseradish spiced seared onions to form a very hearty yet elegant presentation.Alongside the beef was a “cannoli of wild mushrooms” – essentially a crispy potato roll containing an amalgam of blue foot, hen of the woods, and lobster mushrooms – it was perhaps better than the beef.In a side dish – a serving of Richard’s tater tots – essentially pan seared mashed potato cubes with a bit of parmesan.
For my main course, for once a bird following the mammal instead of the other way around, Duck with Roasted Meatballs and Beet-Cinnamon Sauce.A perfect slice of breast with succulent fresh and crispy skin over a thin layer of fat, the duck was paired with crispy potato strings and a trail of fresh beans and vegetables.Like the lamb, the duck was vastly enhanced by the earthy and aromatic sauce – thick, like A1 in texture, the flavor was akin to Poblano mole sauce.Behind the duck were served three small roasted balls of confit duck leg – fatty, smoky, and melting on the tongue.
Becoming somewhat full we were grateful for a break between savories and sweets – watching a table next to us celebrating an anniversary with a giant sparkler cake I had to smile – it is refreshing to see people actually having fun and taking it easy in such a rarefied room.As we chatted a cheese course was delivered featuring four selections; Bonne Bouche Vermont Goat, Triple Cream Brie, Maytag Blue, and Manchego Cheese.Paired with a delectable raisin-pistachio-wheat bread all three were excellent, but I particularly enjoyed the Brie and the Bonne Bouche, a novel cheese to myself full of floral and buttery notes.
More room watching followed before my palate cleanser, the “Egg-ceptional Lemon Meringue” arrived.With lemon yolk over mascarpone white, a white chocolate shell, and a nest of sheared butter-cookies the composite taste when combined was precisely that of a lemon meringue tarte.Cute, clever – a well conceived palate cleanser.
For our desserts proper my aunt received the Napoleon Crème Brulee with a side Crème Brulee Ice Cream and Chocolate Buckshot.Fluffy pasty layered with torched custard the napoleon offered more texture than the traditional dish and was all the better for it.Served over a rich caramel sauce, the Napoleon itself was good.Equally good, and sporting a surprisingly similar flavor to the Napoleon, was a custard textured ice cream with the same delightful chocolate buckshot served at Central.
For my dessert, it was yet another adventure in Chocolates with the nightly Chocolate Degustation.Featuring a milk Chocolate panna cotta with caramel and buckshot, dark chocolate tart with warm raspberry compote, Michel’s Chocolate Bar, and a double Chocolate Cheesecake popsicle…really, how could you go wrong with this dish?Featuring so many different textures, temperatures, styles, and approaches to chocolate – decadence defined.
Arriving with our desserts was a plate of mignardises – four each we received cocoa covered grapes, chocolate-hazelnut operas, sour cherry financiers, and chocolate almond cookies.A great mignardise place I particularly liked the super fresh and sour grapes coated in dense chocolate and cocoa.
Opting against coffee as it was nearing 10:30pm we watched a few more tables snap pictures as sparkler candles burned – the room was full and smiles were everywhere.As Mr. Retourne personally stopped by to ask us if we would like anything else we both thanked him for the wonderful evening and he presented us with copies of the menu to keep.Paying the relatively modest tab and leaving a substantial tip we were led by our server through the kitchen and up the stairs where the door was held open as he wished us a good evening.Looking back on the experience I can only say that Richard’s cookbook is appropriately named “Happiness in the Kitchen” – there wasn’t a moment spent in Citronelle where I wasn’t happy to be there…and more importantly, there wasn’t a moment where it felt like they weren’t genuinely happy to make our evening fantastic.
Having already experienced Zaytinya and Café Atlantico it was only natural that my trip to Washington include some uproar, revelry, and merry-making at Jaleo.Citing that Spanish definition of the wordand realizing that this was perhaps José Andrés most well known restaurant I will admit I was at first somewhat hesitant to book reservations – how original could something be that had already been replicated twice?With fears set aside by some assuring word of mouth and an extensive menu that would certainly please all in my family I concluded the worst it could be was generic – and quite frankly, generic and Andres just don’t seem to belong in the same sentence.
Arriving early in the lunch hour we were greeted by the hostess and led to a cozy four-top in the back corner of the restaurant – an odd choice given the fact that there was only one other couple present when we arrived.With the extensive menu of 70+ items and 10 more daily specials presented it was suggested that 2-3 items each would likely suffice and we were left to make decisions.Water sat empty for some time before our waiter, perhaps the most disinterested server since Norma’s in New York – a man named John P arrived.When he finally stopped by he filled water and took drink orders – two Iced teas and two of us sticking with water.Returning with the iced tea he left before we could order…and didn’t return (bear in mind, there were approximately 10 people in the whole restaurant at this point, though it would fill up later.)Eventually catching the eye of another server I gave him a “head nod” and he walked over – explaining the situation orders were quickly taken and later we saw John P taken aside by the dining room manager…service would subsequently improve, though certainly not to the level of Atlantico or Zaytinya.
With orders placed the table bread arrived – a crusty and warm Sourdough paired with a sweet olive oil poured tableside over a whole clove of crushed garlic – an excellent bread with a crust so hefty and crumbly that making a mess was required.
While it took our table nearly 30 minutes to place orders I must say that the speed of preparation and delivery was vastly more efficient – ordering all at once the dishes began to arrive fast, furious, and fresh from the kitchen.Options arriving during the first wave, each with excellent descriptions by a variety of runners, included Flores de calabaza con queso Idiazabal y jamon (Squash Blossoms with Idiazabal Cheese and Ham,) Pan con tomate (Toasted slices of rustic bread brushed with fresh tomato and Pasamontés farmhouse Manchego,) and Manzanas con hinojo y queso Manchego (Sliced apples and fennel salad with Manchego cheese, walnuts and Sherry dressing.)Each featuring a combination of cheese and vegetables I was quite pleased with the Tomato bread and Salad ordered, but I knew I would be – we’d had them both at Bazaar in the past.The most unique item of this round was from the daily specials, the Squash Blossoms with Idiazabal and Ham – unfortunately it was also the worst (and priciest.)Tasting largely like good ham and excellent cheese on toasted bread there was nothing wrong with the sandwich – but from the menu description I simply figured the featured flavor would be the largely untastable blossoms.
The second round of courses, arriving as we worked on the first dishes, included two new options – Erizos de mar con pipirrana (A spoonful of sea urchin with diced peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers) and Arroz de pato ‘Jean-Louis Palladin’ (Rice with duck confit, duck breast and foie gras cream.)Pricey at $6 I will say that from the small bite of the Erizos I tasted the urchin was phenomenal and paired well with the salsa-esque compontents.Better yet, and much more substantial in portion, was the Arroz de pato, a rich and hearty comfort-food presentation with perfectly prepared rice balanced against rich cream and rare pan seared duck.
Datiles con tocino ‘como hace todo el mundo’(Fried dates wrapped in bacon that you will want to eat every day,) Croquetas de pollo (Traditional chicken fritters,) and Salmón con coliflor y frambuesas (Seared salmon with cauliflower purée and raspberries) would arrive next – each well prepared and delicious, though the first two certainly best as tapas for sharing and the last more suited as a “main course.”Sweet and Savory the dates were everything I expected and the fritters, another flashback to The Bazaar, were creamy and smooth.With regard to the salmon I must note it was slightly overcooked for my tasted, but paired well with the creamy cauliflower puree and zesty raspberry reduction while the crispy cauliflower and whole berries added a fibrous contrast.
With everything served tapas style as it left the kitchen it was somewhat interesting that 2/3 of my aunt’s dishes came out last – no fault of the kitchen, just luck of the draw.Arriving together the Salpicón de cangrejo (Jumbo lump crabmeat with cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, cauliflower and Sherry dressing) and Papas arrugas (Canary Island-style wrinkled baby potatoes served with mojo verde (cilantro, cumin, garlic, Sherry vinegar and olive oil sauce) were both quite excellent.With an ample pile of sweet blue crab balanced with mild vegetables and a fantastic Sherry dressing the crab salad was certainly my favorite cold dish of the meal while the Papas were simple, salty little bites that paired quite nicely with the mildly acidic and heavily nuanced dipping sauce.
Arriving with my aunt’s dishes were two ordered by myself – the Guisantes al natural con huevo (Sautéed organic Tuscarora fresh English peas served with a slow cooked poached egg) and Calamares con piñones y Pedro Ximénez (Seared fresh squid with pine nut praline and a PX reduction)…they also turned out to be my two favorite savories of the meal.Feeling a tad full from the bread and other tapas I’d sampled I started off with the Guisantes…superb and much more than the description would have you believe.Perfectly sautéed in the smoky pork broth with ample hints of mushroom and cumin the peas were sweet yet creamy – and that creamy flavor was only improved by the fresh and luscious egg.More impressive yet, the squid –two large cephalopods stuffed with a sweet pine nut and surrounded by a buttery vinegar reduction…potentially the best “Calamari” I’ve ever tasted.
With myself the only person over ordering everyone else eyed the dessert menu with lust – at least 6 options jumping out at us.Declining coffee but never one to forgo the pastry side of an Andres kitchen I joined in and four desserts were ordered, all arriving at the same time.First, for my mother, the Flan al estilo tradicional de mamá Marisa con espuma de crema Catalana (A classic Spanish custard dessert with ‘espuma’ of Catalan cream and oranges.)Simple, elegant, and wonderful this dish truly did exude tradition as the creamy sweetened flan held up nicely to the fork and the melting cream proved a brilliant foil to the strong citrus of the vinegar reduced oranges.
My sister’s choice, Sopa fría de frutas del bosque con helado de queso fresco (Chilled mixed fruit soup with berries and fresh cheese ice cream,) was not something I would have ordered, but on tasting it I was certainly glad she did.Almost a molecular gastronomy experiment focused on the concept of the cheese cart the dish featured a truly aromatic and pungent ice cream that I’m rather certain was Idiazabal paired wonderfully with a smooth reduction that tasted the very essence of summer – Strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, and raspberries.Delightful.
My selection of the afternoon, Compota de manzana al pan perdido con Pedro Ximénez (Apple charlotte with Pedro Ximénez & vanilla ice cream,) once again turned out to be my favorite.Essentially a Spanish Bread Pudding the dish reminded me fondly of the version at The Inn at Little Washington with a delicate custard cake seemingly made of semi-solid applesauce paired with creamy vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of sweet vinegar – good at first the dish actually got better with each bite as the bottom was immersed in a caramel/vinegar reduction.
Espuma de avellanas y chocolate (Chocolate and hazelnut mousse torte) was my aunt’s selection and while delicious on its own (think nutella on chocolate cake) the addition of a creamy drizzle of “hot chocolate reduction” and caramelized corn nuts only added to the experience – clever, whimsical, and tasty.
Collecting our plates the check was dropped off – modest for so much quality food, but somehow it seemed high for the experience.Sure, the service was sub-par and some of the food rather pedestrian, but normally good food with family is enough to make me feel the meal was worth it…something about Jaleo just felt generic…like the whole concept could be replicated anywhere with a competent kitchen and some stylish paintings…then I realized it could be – at two other places within 50 miles.A nice place for lunch, hors d’oeuvres, or happy hour – sure, but not a “dining experience.”
After our meal at Komi we enjoyed our suckers while wandering the Dupont Circle area until my aunt and mother arrived to pick us up. Having forgone dinner themselves the decision was made (by them) to go pick up some dessert at the famous Georgetown Cupcake – arriving half an hour before closing time we found a 30+ person line but decided to wait it out. Standing with the largely college-aged crew and chatting the line progressed slowly – a young girl came out around 8:45 to stand at the end and prevent more people from joining the line.
Making our way into the store we had already identified the cakes we would order from the large menu – unfortunately many of them were sold out (though still present on the racks they were purportedly already spoken for.) Changing two of our decisions we opted for four cupcakes, paid the relatively substantial fee, and made our way out the same way we came in – the store design is much like Magnolia in NYC and could use some work.
Though not really hungry I tried a bite of each of the cakes – Red Velvet, PB Chip, Chocolate Ganache, and Coconut Chocolate. While it should be noted that our visit was late in the day, Georgetown was still baking when we were there…but after tasting the cakes I’m uncertain if the baking was for those of us in line or the noon crowd the following day. Not wanting to jump to conclusions I waited for my family to weigh in…the verdict was dry, boring…perhaps even stale. While the frosting on each was quite nice, the cakes themselves tasted as though they could have been made with Bisquick…..if I had to name a favorite I’d go with the Ganache…but I really don’t have to name a favorite so I won’t.
Thrilled with Komi, disappointed with GK we got home early and went to bed early – rising as early as usual I went for a long run and felt great.With big museum plans for the day we hopped the Metro and were downtown by 8:00am and decided to stop for a bite to eat at Founding Farmers – first of all because of the great looking Breakfast menu, secondly because of their dedication to local farming and an almost Slow-Food ideal, and third because of the catchy name and eye catching restaurant…to say their mission impresses me would be an understatement:“Take comfort knowing that nearly all of our products are made by us, including all breads, pastries, dressings, sauces, pastas, desserts and even our ice cream. When ingredients are available locally and it is sensible for us to buy them, we do.”
Walking into the largely empty restaurant we were seated quickly – as we walked through the hostess explained some of their Green concepts…it didn’t feel “contrived,” but rather honest.Seated at a 2-top near a group of lawyers discussing business we were greetedby our server, Cory W, a friendly young man who presented menus, filled water, and kept our coffee and tea (both provided by Intelligentsia) filled throughout the meal – unlimited refills on a bold Intelligentsia blend (plus one for the road) for only $3 would alone be enough to justify my visit to Founding Farmers in the future, though I will note I much prefer Equal over Splenda and Stevia (their only 0-cal sweetener options.)
With orders placed we sat in the pleasant sun coming through the floor-to-ceiling windows and discussed our day – it took only 20 minutes for orders to arrived and both items were presented with a nice description and a refill of our respective drinks.For my sister the choice was the McCann’s Steel Cut Irish Oatmeal Served Warm with Vanilla Bean Cream, Fresh Strawberries, Brown Sugar, Almonds and Granola.Originally stating she “didn’t want a lot of food” I don’t think she realized exactly how much food she would get for $5.Easily a 2-cup slow cooked serving of the oats and ample toppings the Oatmeal was fresh, tasty, and nicely made – the vanilla bean cream was amazing but made it just a wee bit runny for my tastes.
For my selection I opted for Fried Chicken, Eggs and Waffles, a dish of Crispy-Fried Free-Range Chicken Tenders with Country Gravy, Two Poached Eggs, and Golden Waffle with Whipped Farm Butter.A substantial deal compared to the $26 option at Bouchon or $15 smaller section at Roscoe’s I will say that it was good, but not as good as those mentioned.Overly poached but still with a runny yolk the eggs were golden and creamy – quite tasty.The waffle also was impressive with the crisp exterior yielding fluffy insides.What was only average, unfortunately, was the chicken – salty with a bit of black pepper there simply wasn’t a lot of chicken taste above the breading – the thick country gravy helped, but true fried chicken would be a better option than the tenders.
Settling the tab and leaving a nice tip after receiving to-go cups of our drinks we made our way to the street quite happy with the experience – environmental, economical, tasty, and great service is definitely a motto I can get behind.
In planning the family trip to DC it must be noted that the trip itself was functioning as Christmas, Graduation, and Birthday for me – I worked overnight call for every major holiday this year and as such requested each family member to dine with me somewhere in DC during our visit as my gift – similarly I took them all out for their respective holidays…”stuff” gathers dusts while memories of special times with family last a lifetime.For the second of these meals in DC I selected the restaurant widely regarded as best in the city – no, not the fabled minibar or famous-by-way-of-TV Volt Table 21 – a small 30 seat restaurant situated above a dry-cleaner, Komi.The vision of Johnny Monis, a man younger than myself who reinvented a local neighborhood restaurant at the age of 24 (in 2005) Komi proved an easier reservation than I’d heard – a simple call at noon one month in advance was all it took for my sister and I to secure an early table, though apparently the seats closest to the kitchen had already been booked.
Seated near the large window looking out onto Seventeenth Street moments after our arrival I will note that the décor of Komi is quite stripped down – mellow yellow walls, wood panel floors, a receptionist stand built into the wall, a center table with flowers, and the brilliant white kitchen open for all to view in the back.What the restaurant lacked in décor (we’ll get to the food in a moment) it more than made up for in service – “tag team” with everyone from the hostess to the maitre d’ to the sommelier chipping in and describing dishes in excellent detail, but more importantly whimsical, interested, and interesting with drinks never below 1/4 empty, no questions unanswered, and an ever present smile.Adopting a semblance of naivety I figured the best way to address their photo policy (not listed on website or in house) was “don’t ask, try, and if they say no the answer is no.”Admittedly I was discreet and some pictures imperfect but…well, they never said no.
..
After an explanation of the two menu options – the “dinner” at $90 or the Degustazione at $125 we went with the longer menu with our only stipulation being no beef – with menus collected I asked if Chef Monis could possibly provide a menu of the items on the Degustazione and was told “certainly.”Sitting back and chatting with Erika it was a matter of moments before our first of twelve Mezzethakia arrived – Kampachi with hot tuna broth.Single bites, one per diner, this crudo presentation was followed by two more in quick succession – Hiramasa with Olive Oil, Chive, Sea Salt and Madai with cured olive and pickled rhubarb.Fantastic quality fish it was only three courses into the meal that my sister said “yeah, I think I’m going to enjoy this.”
A change of pace arrived next as the restaurant filled to capacity and remained that way throughout our three hour meal – entitled Taramosalata the dish was described as Monis’ modern take on a traditional Greek dish made with bread and Caviar, in this case a steamed brioche bun topped with salmon caviar and packed with lemon, parsley, and crème fraiche.Placing the dainty bun into the mouth it burst on mastication delivering a very traditional yet pleasantly balanced flavor – I could have eaten 5 more.
Scallop – 2 preparations arrived next.The first, on spoons, featured a “Shellfish sabayon,” essentially a tartare with almonds and cilantro while the shells presented a crudo atop Dill mustard and topped with white truffle, olive oil, and sea salt.Usually unexcited by mustard I must admit the shell preparation was quite nice…the tartare, however, was wonderful with the almond flavor and sweet bivalve balanced by a heavy dusting of sea salt.
Course six was served in a cocktail glass and was my sister’s favorite of the night – entitled “Sorbet” of Alaskan King Salmon Belly with Baltic Salmon, Shiso sorbet and Candied Pine nuts the dish was thrilling.Having never had salmon belly before I was pleased to find it quite unlike any salmon I’d ever had – literally velvet smooth it truly did melt in the mouth.Pairing the belly with the smoky/pale flesh of the Baltic Salmon and sweet + sour sorbet and pine nut topping worked to great effect.
Enough has been written about course seven that anyone who is thinking about dining at Komi should know what it is all about – interestingly, however, when Monis writes it on the menu he names it “Spanakopita” – an interesting fact given its more common description (both by diners and the server who presented it) as Caesar Salad Cube with fried Romaine lettuce cream fried, Caesar dressing, and Parmesan cheese.Instructed to eat it whole that is exactly what we did and, yes, it tasted like a warm liquid Caesar Salad.
Mezze number eight was Monis’ take on traditional Greek skewered meat.Dubbed Souvlaki – pork belly, house made sweet pickles this was the second time in DC that I received a broasted pork belly, drier than most of the fatty pan seared options, and the second time I thoroughly enjoyed it.Savory and balanced with the sweet pickles it reminded me much of something from the Momofuku universe – I knew I’d like it but I was downright surprised when Erika liked it just as much.
Octopus with charred cauliflower, grilled scallions, onion yogurt, and candied pecans was served next.Served family style it was after a single bite that I considered stabbing my family member in the hand so I could have the whole thing.My favorite of the mezze courses the charred octopus defied any previous description of octopus – it was not chewy, it wasn’t “heavy,” if anything it was crisp, smooth – even buttery.Making the cephalopod seem even more refined was it’s pairing with smoky cauliflower, pungent scallions and tangy yogurt, plus sweet pecans.A truly beautiful dish.
Dish ten, entitled “Gambas” was not something I expected at a fine dining establishment – not because it wasn’t fresh, well prepared, or delicious – but because it was impossible not to make a mess with it.Instructed to “just go at it, don’t worry, we’ll bring warm towels” two large lemon salted prawns were served whole over a basil reduction and after substantial work we had indeed made a mess…but mopping up the sauce with the piping hot crustacean the work was certainly worth it.
The dish that came next was named “Asparagus” per Monis’ handwritten menu, but the star of the show was clearly the house-made Mortadella.Two thick slices, pan seared and served alongside the charred green asparagus, blackened spring onions, andsmoky tomato sauce – savory and comforting, albeit a tad overly salty.
The last of the mezze turned out to be Komi’s infamous Dates; specifically oven-roasted Medjool Dates stuffed with with Mascarpone and topped with extra virgin olive oil, sea salt.Intensely sweet I’m rather uncertain as to where Monis’ sources his Dates from, but whether it is the product or the preparation this dish is every bit deserving of the hype.Paired with a glossy olive oil, creamy mascarpone, and ample crystals of salt my only complaint is that we received only one each.
For our thirteenth dishes we were each delivered separate pastas which we ate half of prior to swapping.While I’m uncertain how they decide who receives which dish I am certain that it did not really matter – both were excellent.As well prepared as expected, the hand rolled Macaronia with goat neck Ragu was sweet yet smoky with a creamy tomato and olive accented tomato sauce adding levity to the hefty and fatty shredded goat.Softer and more creamy than the Macaronia was the Ravioli with Guanciale and Peas.Stuffed with ricotta and drizzled with a smoky butter sauce the peas, incredibly sweet, proved an excellent foil to the savory jowl.
For our main course – really, there is nothing “fine dining” about it other than the quality of the ingredients and the excellence of preparation.Titled Katsikaki with Pita, oregano salt, chile sauce, roasted red pepper sauce, Baba ghanoush, Buttered Fennel and Cumin slaw, Cucumber tzatziki the dish was served family style and we were encouraged to eat with our hands.With thin and crispy skin atop a layer of fat surrounding some of the most lean and tender tasting meat I’ve had in some time I simply fell deeper in love with this dish the more I ate – think pulled pork but without the ham flavor – clean and a welcoming palate to the condiments.Forming our own pitas as we went along (and requesting a second serving of hot, buttery pita) I’m rather certain I ate approximately 2/3 of the delicious goat and left to my own devices I’d have probably eaten more of the large shoulder…especially with that ghanoush and buttered fennel slaw.
Sated but not stuffed I rather hoped desserts would be small and dynamic as opposed to large or gluttonous – of course I was thinking dessert and forgot about cheese, a dish titled “Appalachian” featuring Meadowcreek Dairy’s buttery raw Appalachian paired with a crisp crostini and candied orange peel.A good composed cheese course I appreciated its mellow nature and the manner in which the orange brought forth some of the earthy tones.
The followup to our cheese course, an intermezzo noted as simply “Strawberry” was served in small porcelain bowl – 2oz at most – and featured a freshly pureed locally grown strawberry in tangy Greek Yogurt with a hint of lime.My sister called it the best smoothie ever, and I would be inclined to agree.
“Baklava,” the only dessert constant on Komi’s menu came next and featured the much discussed Frozen Baklava with Cinnamon ice cream, Crispy Walnut, Phyllo crumble, and Greek honey.Essentially a scoop of vanilla walnut ice cream served in a deconstructed form with all the traditional constituents of Baklava I must say it was clever and tasty – it made me remember trips to a Greek diner back home with my parents when I was young…advanced comfort food, if you will.
Our final dessert, the largest of the group, was unfortunately the weakest course of the night, though perhaps not the fault of the restaurant as Erika and I simply don’t fancy Rhubarb.Titled “Rhubarb” this dish was essentially an exploration of textures and flavor – poached, foam, cream, and syrup served over a house-made graham cracker.While effective in its scope, the taste just wasn’t all that sweet – it would have worked better as an intermezzo after the cheese, perhaps.
For our mignardises we were presented one at the table and one to take home, the first a liquid Caramel topped with sea salt.Served warm on a spoon the flavor was buttery, sugary, perhaps even a little bit of bourbon undertone – the salt was a beautiful textural addition – and it seemed to fit the rest of the meal quite appropriately.
Receiving our check and two of Komi’s signature Lollypops (Lemon ginger this evening) we joked with our server about the mess we’d made of the tablecloth and she assured us we” did better than most – the point is to enjoy the food and have fun!”Given the quality of sourcing, preparation, and service plus their stature as best restaurant in DC I find it difficult to think the only point of a meal is to enjoy the food and have fun, but at the same time something about her comment rang true.What Johnny Monis is doing at Komi isn’t as serious as Restaurant Eve and it isn’t as innovative as Jose Andres…the best comparison would be to what RJ is doing with Vidalia 24, but Monis is doing it for two services five nights a week.If the point was only to enjoy good food and have fun, Komi was a resounding success…if the point was something more – to provide fantastic service of superior ingredients prepared in an expert fashion…they do a fantastic job there, as well.
Having dined on Mediterranean, Indian, and “Nuevo-Latino” lunches thus far in DC we decided it was time for something a little more familiar – yet something you can’t really find in small town Ohio – French Bistro fare.With dinner plans for Citronelle the following night the four of us met up at Michel Richard’s downtown Brasserie – Central – the 2008 Beard Award Winner for best new restaurant.Having heard about Central’s sizable portions and decadent desserts we eschewed breakfast and arrived just as the restaurant was opening – as a matter of fact we were the first to arrive.Greeted by the pleasant receptionist we were led to a great four-top near the back of the restaurant – a seat with a great view of the all-glass kitchen as well as the dining space which would quickly fill to capacity with black suits and business wear.
Sitting down we were greeted by our server, a young woman named Valentina – she was pleasant if not overly attentive, our water and bread reaching empty and requiring requests for refills on more than one occasion.Menus were presented and drink orders placed – Dr. Brown’s Cherry Soda, House Made Grapefruit Soda, Iced Tea, and Coffee plus the previously mentioned water…as we made our decisions we were delivered a basket of hot and crusty sourdough paired with a delightful salted butter.
With orders placed we sat back and watched Sportscenter on the television at the bar while discussing the day’s plan – after fifteen minutes we received our first selection of the afternoon, an enormous cone of hot and fluffy gougeres.Flaky pastry exterior and creamy cheese within the Gougeres weren’t as meltingly succulent as those at the Keller establishments but they were salty and savory little bites straight out of a French Culinary text.
A basket of gougeres and a basket of bread devoured we waited only fifteen more minutes before our mains arrived – by this time the restaurant was filled and noisy, but not loud.After requesting refills of bread, water, and coffee we dug right into our mains – first for my sister a tasty Ahi Tuna Burger cooked rare and served with a fresh frisee salad topped with a light vinaigrette.Served with a light and zippy mayo, tomato, and two of Michel’s signature potato tuiles the hefty tuna patty worked beautifully with the brioche textured bun while the tuiles added a crunchy texture and a light buttery flavor.
For my aunt the selection would be a loaded corned beef sandwich atop toasted bread – she stated it was the best she has ever had and I’ll take her word for it.Tasting her coleslaw – a light version with cabbage, carrot, zucchini, and spices I quite liked the lack of heavy mayonnaise that plagues many slaws and the French fries were a delight – golden, crisp, and topped with crystals of kosher salt.
With mom ordering the item I’d targeted I opted for some traditional bistro fare – the Charcuterie Plate featuring Faux Gras, La Quercia Prosciutto, Country Pate, Boar Sausage, House Cure Salami, Head Cheese, Cipollini Onions, and Cornichons alongside a Frisee, lardon and poached egg salad.One of my favorite salads, the airy yet fibrous frisee was a clean palate for the creamy poached egg and incredibly salty lardons – adding house-made croutons and a light vinaigrette only helped.With regard to the Charcuterie Plate I was glad for some help from the family – the board was enormous and the options delectable.While each slice of meat was delicious and the Country Pate the best I’ve ever tasted I particularly fancied the Faux Gras – a buttery textured terrine of chicken liver with a peppery undertone.
Fried Chicken with Mashed Potatoes and Mustard Sauce, my mother’s option, turned out to be every bit the showstopper I’d heard it was – a difficult task for something as simple as Fried Chicken. Paired with sieved “pomme puree” loaded with butter and a side of mustard sauce the bird was tender, moist…juicy even with accents of rosemary and thyme.Undoubtedly brined the fantastic chicken was only enhanced by the buttermilk and cornmeal accented batter, laid on thick and forming airy hush-puppy-esque pockets surrounding the natural curvature of the bird.
Heavy options all around for the main courses there was no way we were skipping dessert – the menu was simply too tempting and Richard’s pastry kitchen too well renowned.Knowing what I’d order before we even arrived we each selected a different option and shared around – believe me, these aren’t skimpy desserts, there will be plenty to share.Starting with my option, Bread and Butter Pudding, all I can do is think back and smile…simple, flawlessly executed, and warm the four by four inch square was served swimming in a buttery rum sauce and topped with fresh whipped cream and candied Pecans.Everything bread pudding should be the flavors were balanced – sugar, cinnamon, butter, and cream plus small bites of golden raisin hidden in a supple brioche that melted on the tongue.
For my mother’s option – well, she still raves about it today as her favorite single dish of the trip.Simply titled “Michel’s Napoleon” the nearly 1/2 foot tall amalgam of pastry cream and flaky (think Phyllo Dough) was served in a hefty vanilla sauce and crackled with each poke of the fork.While somewhat difficult to eat without making a mess the mild flavor profile was delicious – in my opinion it begged for some fruit, but for mom it was perfect.
My aunt’s choice was Michel’s signature – a dish originally served at (and still served at) Citronelle.Simply titled “Michel’s Chocolate Bar” or “Le Kit Kat,” the dessert was a veritable tasting of chocolate in and of itself.Served as a long bar composed of a thick layer of chocolate crème, crushed hazelnut, and crispy chocolate wafer in a pool of milk chocolate my only critique of this dish would be that the wafer was so dense that it nearly needed a nice…and that that it cried for coffee or a glass of milk – it was large, dense, and decadence at its best.
Going for the gusto, my sister opted for The Banana Split.One of her favorite desserts, Valentina warned us that the dessert was immense but Erika was undeterred.Delivered in a plate over a foot wide the split made the other desserts look tame…almost pedestrian.With three ice creams (creamy vanilla, icy strawberry sorbet, and profoundly dense chocolate) each topped on their own in the upper sections of the dish the bottom half consisted of three half-bananas, split lengthwise, beneath a mound of hand whipped cream, almonds, chocolate fudge, pineapple, and cherry sauce flanked on each side by caramel and chocolate sauces swirled in vanilla cream.Excessive, yes.Delicious, yes.Finished almost entirely by a short and thin female, you bet.
Noting that service did indeed improve after I drew her attention to the empty beverages and bread I still felt Valentina was a mediocre server compared to our previous DC dining experiences at lunch – sure the restaurant was busy, but so is everywhere downtown in DC at that time of day.That said, everything that came out of the kitchen during our visit to Central was exquisite – as good as “simple” bistro food can be and it is obvious that others are paying attention, from the Beard Award to the 30 minute wait for a table as we were leaving shortly before 1:00.No, they’re not going to wow you with cutting edge cooking methods or the effusive service of Citronelle, but they are going to give you a lot of great food at a fair price in a pleasant setting.
I was number one on the waitlist for minibar on Tuesday, but I didn’t figure there was much chance I was getting in.With many of DC’s top tables booked for the other six days of my stay my backup needed to be something good – 2941, Marcel’s, Proof, The Oval Room, and others were considered but in the end I decided to go with my instincts – “hotel” restaurants generally provide excellent service for solo diners and with a long term Keller alum helming the kitchen of a restaurant consistently amongst Gayot’s top 40 food ratings each year I knew the food would hold up to the other kitchen’s on my tour itinerary.
Arriving at the Mandarin Oriental ten minutes early for my reservation at CityZen the hotel staff and reservationist couldn’t have been more helpful – doors were opened, “sir” and “doctor” used liberally, chairs and tables pulled out as I was seated (per request) at a table directly next to the glistening open kitchen where I would be privileged to watch Chef Eric Ziebold operate throughout the evening.Yet another Beard Award Winner, the third of my trip, Ziebold seemed to be at every station during my visit – a working man’s chef despite his critical acclaim.Matching the flawless kitchen the décor at CityZen was sleek, clean, and modern – everything in its right place, everything looking the part of a very fine dining establishment and surprisingly both the kitchen and the restaurant were quite quiet – Radiohead’s Kid A playing softly overhead.
Greeted moments after seating by my primary server for the evening, Renee, the service at CityZen was precise if not overly friendly – everyone did their job but no one seemed interested in knowing the diner or showing much personality.Questions were answered without delay, dishes described in exacting detail, requests (in my case for a substitution on the tasting menu, in the case of the table next to me for gluten free preparations) allowed without question, but everything seemed very stiff; fine-dining-by-number, if you will.Choosing the tasting menu and requesting the final savory be replaced by an item from the prix fixe Renee checked with Ziebold himself who stated it would be no problem, merely a $10 upcharge – much like in the kitchen it was clear that Ziebold was in total command of his restaurant.
Beginning the experience I opted for a mixed drink, in this case a CityZen Dark and Stormy with Fresh muddled Limes, house made ginger syrup, Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, Soda Water.A delightful beverage it arrived directly from the bartender moments before my amuse of the evening, Potato and Leek Panna Cotta, Lobster and Cajun aioli.A small morsel of chopped lobster beneath a buttery crisp the dish was approximately 2 bites and well balanced – the smooth and creamy custard and lobster forming a flavor not unlike a semi-solid spicy lobster bisque.
A follow-up to the amuse was three canapés – a Halibut Cheek Croquette on Tomato Confit, Bass Belly on Melted Leek, Head Cheese on Bread Soup.Confused as I generally expect canapés to precede the amuse proper I wasn’t about to complain about these choices, all three expertly prepared and cleanly presented without a lot of embellishment or fuss.All quite delicious I particularly liked the melt-in-the mouth croquette and the supple head cheese, specifically the way the smoky and melted collagen mingled with the garlic and thyme of the “soup.”
Arriving prior to my first course I was delivered two butters – a salted French option and an unsalted sweet Amish butter sourced from Pennsylvania.To accompany the butters three bread options were offered; Sourdough, Forcaccia, and Whole Wehat – all room temperature and replenished without requiring request.Serviceable but not extraordinary in any way I liked the Forcaccia with its smoky garlic tones best of the three.
Soft Boiled Path Valley Farms Hen Egg with Melted Spring Onion, Shaved Shoat Leg, Morel Broth would be my first proper course and it would also be my favorite of the evening.Flawless execution with the egg sous-vided to a consistency where the yolk and white were hardly distinguishable the dish came alive on mixing – the pungent spring onions, savory pork, and smoky morel mushrooms all flawless.Fine dining or not, I used some of the sourdough to mop the bowl clean.
My second course presented a heavier flavor profile and something I’d never tasted before – a confit of fish.Confit of Big Eye Tuna, Marinated Yama Imo and Yuzu Aioli was intriguing in its obvious Asian influence yet refusal to simply present a sashimi of Tuna.Served warm the tuna was supple, somewhat akin to a pan seared preparation with beautiful red flesh inside but a creamy exterior layer.Accompanied by smooth citrus aioli, radishes, and sweet vinegar marinated Japanese Yam the dish was again quite balanced with each ingredient serving a purpose to enhance the overall experience.
Continuing the trend of expert execution and clean plating the next dish was apparently one of Ziebold’s more famous seasonal creations – Beer Battered Chesapeake Bay Softshell Crab with Black Radish, Toasted Cashew, Rhubarb Gazpacho.The best softshell I’ve ever had, bar none, the crab itself was impossibly sweet while the bitter radish and acidic yet smooth broth lent some lightness to the otherwise hefty fried preparation.It was at this point, three courses into the five savories that I started to realize I’d seen and tasted preparations like this before – refined, flawless, cleanly plated, text book execution…Keller’s influence on Ziebold was evident in a good way.
If my experience with the first courses made me think about The Laundry, course four sealed the deal – Sweet Butter Poached Maine Lobster with Baby Bok Choy, Crispy Sunchoke, Lobster Veloute looked straight out of my photos from Napa and tasted just as excellent.Skipping the sous-vide and instead presenting the Lobster as a slow poached version in butter it was succulent and snappy.Balanced with buttery bok choy and Crisp Sunchoke in a broth made of butter and lobster coral – again, detailed and refined, even if not very ground-breaking or daring.
Arriving next along with my main course was the house-made famous Parker House rolls – delightful, buttery, steaming hot and served in an elegant cigar box…it is too bad the standard Bread service wasn’t this good.For my main, the $10 supplement, an Aiguillette of Pekin Duck Breast with Citrus Braised Rhubarb, Fennel Salad, Navel Oranges, Foie Gras Vinaigrette.True to its name, this “cord” of duck breast was classic in preparation – rose flesh between layers of crispy skin and it sat next to a similar cord of similarly textured lemony rhubarb – an interesting interplay for sure.Topping the dish was seared fennel, sweet oranges, and a glossy sauce that pulled everything together – rustic yet refined, east meets west.
Finishing my savories I was offered coffee – with the time approaching 11:30 I declined…at this point the kitchen itself was actually cleaning up (though pastry Chef Amanda Cook and her team still appeared hard at work.)Having heard good things about the cheese program none was offered and I decided not to inquire – instead I awaited my palate cleanser, a smooth but unexciting Vanilla Ice Cream with Sour Cherry Gelee that served its purpose but really seemed no better than cherry Jell-O with whipped cream.
For my dessert I was served a Frozen Valrhona Chocolate Terrine with Orange Scented Fudge Cake and Blood Orange Sauce.Small and elegantly presented the cake itself constituted approximately four bites.Tasty if not ground breaking the dessert featured a cookie crisp bottom layer topped with an ice cream exuding accents of cocoa and orange – sweet balanced with sour, perhaps my expectations were set too high given Cook’s recent Beard nomination, but I wasn’t blown away.
Having seen multiple neighbors receive the mignardise plate I was somewhat disappointed when mine arrived without the house made cupcake, instead featuring pistachio Marshmallows, Cassis Macarons, and cold chocolate Peanut Butter Bars.Inquiring about the cupcake I was told they’d run out – c’est la vie.Tasting the mignardises it was clearly late in the day – the macarons were crumbly and the marshmallows dry…I did enjoy the bars more than my dessert proper, however.
When it was all said and done I left CityZen sated and appropriately impressed by Ziebold’s skills but overall the meal felt flat.At first I thought the disappointment may have been due to the sheer number of excellent dining experiences during my visit to the DC area, but looking back I think the problem was that CityZen tries very hard to be fine dining and ends up lacking soul in its efforts.Everything is fine, everything is elegant, but throughout the meal you feel like the diner…you don’t feel like a “guest.”
We’d wandered the aquarium for four hours, the Visionary Art Museum for two, and also been to the Poe Grave – the next stop on our 12 hour visit to Baltimore would be the “World Famous” Lexington Market – one of the oldest community markets in the United States and more importantly the home to two of Baltimore’s most well known establishments – Faidley’s Crab Cakes and Berger’s Cookies.Without getting into too much detail I will note that the market itself and the area surrounding it are not savory at all…as a matter of fact I’ve never seen so many unsavory, shifty, and downright frightening persons…traveling with three women I felt uneasy throughout our visit that someone’s purse was soon to go missing.
Making our way through the various ethnic eateries of the market (largely heat lamps and buffets of unappetizing foods) and browsing the unique selections such as Scrapple we found Faidley’s with minimal difficulty – there are quite a few signs.Arriving at 3:30pm we’d missed the lunch line and made our way straight to the front of the line where we met the owner, Nancy, a pleasant and helpful lady who recommended the Lump cake stating “if you’re going to try one, make it the best of ‘em.”At $13 the bar was set high.
Walking to one of the standing bar/tables in the middle of the area we chatted for a few moments before the Crabcake was delivered – a thick baseball of a cake loaded with buttery and succulent crab, bound with a creamy breading somewhat akin to cornbread and speckled with pepper and Old Bay.Diving the cake into fourths we were each afforded 3-4 bites and while different, I can say it rivals my previous favorite cake from San Francisco Ferry Place Seafood for best all time.
Making our way further into the market our next (and last) stop at the Market was Berger’s, a nearly 175 year old family owned bakery known predominantly for their German Vanilla Wafer cookie topped with thick fudge.As opposed to trans-fat as I am, I figured I should give the cookie a taste given its longevity and fame – for $1.25 we received two of them.Tasting largely like a soft sugar cookie topped with a rich ganache of pure fudge there was certainly nothing wrong with the cookie – it was good, as good as a Black and White cookie minus the white can be, I guess – but for the gram of trans fat and 140 calories I’d sooner have eaten something else.Inquiring about their Red Velvet cake I was told it did not use Cream cheese frosting, but rather “sugar frosting,” and as such I passed and we left the market for more quick bites around Baltimore.
Having done some of the Baltimore browsing my Aunt suggested something sweet – Baltimore Cupcake Company.Setting the GPS we made our way to the storefront only to find them closed…fortuitously a new shop called Caroline’s Cupcakes had opened only two doors down two weeks prior – making our way in the door we were greeted by a pleasant young woman who described the premise of the company to us – quality ingredients, small batches, and unique creations atop of a core “collection” – a concept similar to most cupcake shops but with average sized cakes for a good price – we selected four and made our way to the car.
Titled Vanilla Wonder and Pink Wonder, two of the cakes were quite similar – a buttery and thick Vanilla “wondercake” (essentially a buttercake or vanilla accented poundcake in texture) topped with frosting – rich vanilla bean in the case of the vanilla and a sugar-sweet and somewhat citrus/berry accented version atop the Pink.While my family quite liked both options and I loved the cake I felt the frosting was a tad overwhelming (and ample.)For my taste, the other options were vastly superior, first the PB&Joy featuring a fabulous salty and textural peanut butter cake and rich chocolate frosting with a chunk of peanut butter cup I would not be surprised at all of the cake contained more peanut butter than flour.The second option, the standard by which I judge a cupcakery, was a moist and deliciously cocoa accented Red Velvet with the smoothest and most subtle Red Velvet I’ve had since Sweet Revenge in NYC.Definitely a formidable selection given the young age of the store I hope Caroline does well as she tweaks and refines recipes.
Pulling away from Caroline’s the last stop on our afternoon food-trek through Baltimore was Dangerously Delicious Pies – despite their new location in the DC area and mixed reviews my Aunt had heard about them on Food Network and I have to admit I liked their approach – all natural, hand made, sweet and savory both, and a set price of $6 a slice, regardless of type…they even offer vegan friendly options.Reading their humorous website, titles, and descriptions only fueled my desire to check the place out – finding meter parking only 20 yards from the store didn’t hurt, either.Making our way into the store to the sounds of Pisces Iscariot era Smashing Pumpkins we were greeted by a friendly single server who was baking, cutting, and serving pies while also acting as cashier.Browsing the options we decided on two sweet pies, a coffee for myself (Stumptown blend) and a large milk.
Making our way to the back of the shop to eat, our two options were an old classic – Apple, and their signature Baltimore Bomb with Berger Cookies melted down and swirled into a Vanilla Chess pie.Beginning first with the apple – buttery crust, still-warm Granny Smith apples, Cinnamon, Sugar, and more butter…everything an American Apple Pie should be, without the cheese.While I’ve heard some state high prices, I’ll note this was a pretty hefty slice of pie and the ingredients were far above your average diner.Moving on to the Bomb – what decadence – an almost buttermilk flavor combining effortlessly with the cookies to form a thick and creamy cookies and milk experience.Almost egg-custard in texture, but with chunks of the cookie forming a nice contrast with the smooth pie, I have to say I “get” why this is a best seller.
Heading home from Baltimore I was definitely glad we made the trip…while the Lexington Market was a bit of a disappointment and the Berger cookies somewhat overrated on their own, Miss Shirley’s, Faidley’s, Caroline’s, and Dangerously Delicious Cupcakes made for a great foodie visit while the Aquarium, Visionary Museum, and Poe Grave were all worth the time and effort.
Baltimore is a city I did not know much about – sure, Hopkins is there, as is one of the best Aquariums in the world, and Camden – but it was never high on my list of places to visit.Deciding that we needed to add this Aquarium to the ever growing list it was up to me to find a suitable breakfast or lunch – asking around the options seemed bleak but a trusted source who knew my love of Bongo Room and Griddle Café suggested I’d “probably like” Miss Shirley’s…as a bonus is was less than half a mile from our destination, as well.While I will fully admit I have a soft spot for breakfasts that could double as dessert, there are some only a few places where the menu is just so smile-inducing that gluttony seems required – Miss Shirley’s was one of those places.
With a stiff wind and nearly horizontally moving rain inducing a run from the parking garage to the front door we arrived around 8:30am to find Miss Shirley’s approximately half full – greeted by a smiling manager at the door we were quickly led to a large booth, water was filled, and we were offered beverages.Opting for two coffees and two teas I can’t say there was anything terribly memorable about either – what was memorable was our server, a young man named Tim who kept our cups filled and bested the service of many waiters in the fine dining world throughout our meal – even if he didn’t warn us about just how indulgent our order would turn out to be.
Deciding on a couple of appetizers and a “main course” each we realized immediately on arrival of the appetizers that we’d over-ordered.Arriving first, in spectacular fashion, was Funky Monkey Bread – Cinnamon Pull-Apart with Bananas, Chocolate and Pecans, Powdered Sugar.Enormous, literally the size of a full-size Bundt cake pan, the buttery and yeasty dough was pure cinnamon roll.Topping the ring of flaky dough with sliced bananas, chopped pecans, and chocolate chips the center of the ring was filled with a chocolate and pecan dunking sauce – the entire dish excessive in every way.
The second appetizer – arriving along with the Monkey Bread – was a Mini Bundt cake Sampler with Red Velvet and Cream Cheese, Chocolate with Vanilla cream, and Lemon Blueberry with Lemon drizzle.To call these “mini” was accurate – assuming the reference point was the Monkey Bread, however each cake was twice the size of an average cupcake.With all three cakes providing different texture and taste we were assured all were baked from scratch using the owner’s original dessert recipe (appetizer indeed!) and each was quite tasty, warm from the oven.Cocoa nuanced and with a mildly sour cream cheese I liked the Red Velvet best while others fancied the Blueberry Muffin textured version paired with hints of lemon and what I believe was mint.The chocolate option was heavy and dark, akin to a Hostess Cupcake with better quality cocoa.
Still working on the appetizers after 15 minutes our mains began to arrive – not since Bongo Room would there be quite this many sweets on the table at once – Tim joked that we had our work cut out for us – I agreed.
Beginning with my option, listed at MP on the menu, the $18.99 Crab Cristo with Jumbo Lump Crab Meat, Smoked Ham and Swiss Sandwiched between French Toast, Deep Fried until Crispy, Drizzled with Honey Mustard and Citrus Aioli, Dusted with Powdered Sugar and Old Bay.It is hard to gauge size from a picture, but suffice it to say that I have large hands and each half of the sandwich was thicker, longer, and wider than one of my hands.With vanilla loaded French Toast on each side, the bread was layered with a slice of cheese, then a slice of smoky ham, and finally stuffed full with fresh picked blue crab meat before being dipped in the deep fryer to form a golden and crunchy crust.Topping the dish with a combination of sweet sugar and savory Old Bay (I opted against the Honey Mustard) plus lemon and chive aioli there was a whole lot going on, but somehow it worked – it was fantastic and drew a humorous degree of curiosity from neighboring tables given its size…and more curiosity as to how “someone so skinny could eat so much.”
For my mother, a fan of coconut but already full from Eve the previous night, the plate du jour was Joyous Almond Cakes with Coconut, Chocolate Chip, Toasted Almond.As expected from the name the dish itself tasted like a warm cake made with melted Almond Joy candy bar.Excellent on its own I was surprised when Tim brought the syrup – pure maple from Vermont – and although my mother didn’t feel it was necessary the bites I tasted were very nicely complimented by the spicy and thick maple flavor.Despite not eating much of the appetizers (too full) mom managed only two of her three pancakes…my sister and I managed the rest.
My aunt’s options were decent, but not fantastic – in general she has an uncanny ability to order poorly at breakfast, mostly because she hates maple syrup and egg dishes and therefore attempts to fruit based options – even when those fruits are neither regional nor in season.Opting for two short-stacks of 2 pancakes her choices were Raspberry White Chocolate Pancakes and Upside Down Pineapple Cakes – Brown Sugar Caramelized Pineapple and Cinnamon.With fluffy buttermilk pancakes forming the base, these options were simply pancake + topping, and while both toppings were nicely done, both were rather tame and would have benefitted from more in-season fruit toppings.1/2 of her Raspberry pancakes was the only thing that went back to the kitchen uneaten.
For my sister – the girl definitely knows how to order at breakfast – the choice was Coconut Cream Stuffed French Toast with Cream Cheese, Mascarpone, Flaked Coconut, Bruleed Banana, Powdered Sugar and Cinnamon.As large as my sandwich and equally golden brown the dish featured a whole banana, two enormous slices of bread, copious flaked coconut, and easily 3-4oz of the smooth and sweet cheese blend.Swimming in a sauce of Strawberry the flavor of this French Toast was fantastic – and aside from a couple bites shared with the family she managed it almost entirely on her own…a true maple syrup junky (see also our meal at Norma’s in NYC) she even topped this dish with it and actually, it made it even better.
Settling the tab and leaving an ample tip for Tim’s stellar service I asked him if they had a dessert menu – both he and the neighboring table cracked up.Filling out the comment card and dropping it out front I strongly suggested they consider building outside the Baltimore area – perhaps in Columbus Ohio – I hear there is an enormous college campus there and an extremely sub-par breakfast/brunch scene.Then again, perhaps it is better they stay in Baltimore – I quite like my wardrobe and don’t really want to have to buy pants with a bigger waistline.
In planning the family trip to DC it must be noted that the trip itself was functioning as Christmas, Graduation, and Birthday for me – I worked overnight call for every major holiday this year and as such requested each family member to dine with me somewhere in DC during our visit as my gift – similarly I took them all out for their respective holidays…”stuff” gathers dusts while memories of special times with family last a lifetime.For the first of these three meals the decision was made to attend Restaurant Eve in Old Town Alexandria with my mother.Having heard good things from multiple friends and Washingtonians (including Chef Cooper at Vidalia and the Maitre D’ at The Inn) I was quite excited for the meal and although reservations were a bit tricky it worked out well as the Tasting Room is open on Mondays and we landed a two top for 6pm.
Arriving 20 minutes late due to traffic we parked the car and made our way down the tiny alley to the lobby of Chef Cathal Armstrong’s beautiful restaurant and were greeted pleasantly by a pair of young ladies who led us quickly to the Tasting Room, a lovely space separated by glass doors from the restaurant proper.The vision of Chef Armstrong and his wife Meshelle, Eve features three dining areas with each sporting different menus and price ranges, the tasting room being the most exclusive.Having contacted the restaurant ahead of time I was assured it was okay for me to order the spontaneous 9-course menu while mom opted for less food – I will note that Reservations Manager Ashley Pique’ was quite helpful both before and after the meal, when she E-mailed me to ask for a mailing address for a copy of the menu.
Seated and with water filled we were greeted by one of three servers who would assist us throughout the night.Courteous, pleasant, and ever-present in the room I will note that at first the service felt a tad “hovering” but it relaxed as more diners arrived.If I had but one negative (the only negative, I might add) to say about Eve’s service it would be that plates were occasionally dropped off by runners who failed to describe the plates, instead leading the diner to wait 15-30 seconds for a server to arrive tableside…an easy fix I recommended on the comment card at the end of the meal; simply train the runners in the art of describing a plate.While mom browsed the menu I opted for a drink, something I rarely do but couldn’t resist when I saw Lemony Laurel with Roasted Lemons, Bay Leaves, Galliano, and Smirnoff Citrus Vodka – Spicy, smoky, citrus, and packing a bit of punch…best mixed drink of the trip.
With orders placed, myself going with the spontaneous 9-course and mom choosing 5 from the prix fixe, our canapés arrived first – three each I was surprised that mom not only ate them, but liked them all!Featuring Deviled Quail Egg with Osetra, Goat Cheese Fritter with Horseradish, and Salmon Rillet each was quite tasty and balanced – dense egg/creamy mousse, creamy cheese/spicy horseradish, creamy salmon/crunchy toast.A welcoming opening round, for sure.
Our amuse proper of the night was Rabbit Liver Mousse, Rabbit Sausage, Baguette, Cream – and again mom ate it, though she didn’t like it as much as I.Using the cream and savory sausage to balance the unctuous and gamey liver was a nice setup in my opinion while the baguette added a nice contrast and crunch.I can’t say I fancy rabbit liver the way I do other animals, but it was good.
Interestingly our next course was an Intermezzo featuring a beautiful first of the season strawberry sorbet paired with a dry and still bubbly champagne plus hints of lemongrass – while I can’t say I expected an intermezzo so early, it was very nicely done.
With amuses cleared the bread service began next – the night’s selection (baked in house…actually, it seemed most aspects of Eve’s cooking including stocks, sauces, coffee roasting, and bitters were done in house) consisting of a crunchy and cheesy breadstick,a smooth Buttermilk Biscuit, and an olive-rye roll.Served along with these options was a slab of authentic Irish Kerrygold butter – the best butter I’ve had outside of The French Laundry/Per Se and Manresa with its grassy nature tempered by a smooth sweetness.
Beginning mom’s tasting was her first selection – eschewing more esoteric options on the first course she chose Fresh Chickpea Falafel with Housemade Yogurt, Lemon Coulis, Baby Romaine – a constant on Eve’s menu featuring two crisp and tasty chickpea balls paired with smooth and slightly sour yogurt, clean lemon flavor, plus crispy romaine the overall feel of the dish was distinctly Greek in nature and quite delicious.While I can’t say it would have been my choice the bite I tasted indicated I certainly wouldn’t have been disappointed it arrived on the spontaneous menu.
Noting my previous statement I will say that if I received the Falafel instead of my dish, Sauteed Softshell Crab with Carrot Orange Vinaigrette, Navel Oranges, Herb Salad I would have been disappointed.Featuring a large and buttery panko crusted crab with extraordinarily sweet meat the protein was well paired with a salad of fresh garden herbs and lettuces, citrusy oranges, and a sharp yet restrained vinaigrette that tasted more carrot than orange.
For my second course, arriving approximately 15 minutes after the first was cleared (keep in mind that Eve takes its time to do things right – the whole meal took nearly 4 hours and was worth every moment) the presentation was Chef Armstrong’s signature 000 “Oysters, Cippolini Onions, Iranian Osetera Caviar” and like other signature oysters and caviar dishes it is worthy of the title as signature dish.A clever play on the “000” rating given to Beluga caviar I opted stir and combine the dish after cutting the oyster in half – the fluffy tart itself being substantial and the oyster being solo.With the overall flavor of the dish strongly influenced by the supple oyster flesh and briny popping caviar I appreciated the manner in which the sweet and pungent onion balanced out the heavy and buttery tart – each flavor showing on its own but also complementing the others.
Mom’s next course was no surprise, not after her two previous experiences with John Dory and this one was potentially the best yet.Titled Roasted John Dory with Saffron Bread Sauce, Baby Fennel, Piquillo-Olive Relish the large filet was butter roasted and pan flashed – cooked through and falling apart to touch.With the mild fish laid across braised and earthy fennel the dish was subsequently topped with a smoky and sweet olive relish and finished tableside with sauce that can best be described as saffron and cream with a hint of onion.Utilizing a variety of heavy ingredients in a rather subtle style I found this dish particularly representative of what Cathal did throughout the meal – using each of his well selected ingredients to their utmost potential.
The next dish for myself was a $15 supplement (even on the spontaneous tasting there are three options for supplemental cost – foie, lobster, and Iranian Osetera) and worth every penny – even if it did look like the world’s most golden Twinkie when it arrived.Simply dubbed Foie Gras en Croute with Bliss Elixir and Pickled Rhubarb the best way to describe this dish is to see a picture – essentially a sliced log of Foie gras baked in a golden pastry shell and served alongside sour pickled rhubarb, shaved wisps of fennel, and a strawberry-lavender-citrus sauce.A thicker and more texturally layered slice of liver than most I rather assume the Foie Gras itself was first roasted before baking, but whatever the method it was excellent and ample in portion.
More time passed between the third and fourth course as the tasting room began to fill – again, it was nice as the noise level was low, the bread was good, and the company was better but I’m not sure eating alone at Eve would be comfortable – the first time I’ve ever thought this…the room is simply small and crowded.Opting against the lobster option for more local cuisine the next dish to arrive was Filet of Atlantic Halibut with Spring Vegetables and Eve Green Curry – the first sous vide preparation of the evening, juicy and tender inside, pan kissed on the skin.Served with the mild fish was a smoky and fresh curry made entirely with herbs grown on premises and peas, shallots, and onions – again, simple flavors used elegantly to compliment a perfect piece of fish.
The next course was a bit of stretch for my mother – but she took a chance and ordered the roasted Breast of Squab with Baby White Asparagus, Rhubarb, Summer Truffle Squab Glace.I say the dish was a stretch because generally she favors her poultry overcooked and this dish, roasted, promised to be delivered rare – and it was.Expertly prepared and amongst the best preparations of game-bird I’ve ever had, my mother simply couldn’t get past the scarlet flesh and opted for the portions closest to the succulent and crispy skin.Pairing the fine bird with aromatic truffle broth and snappy al dente vegetables I have to admit I wasn’t entirely disappointed that mom wouldn’t eat the whole plate solo.
My fifth course was amongst my favorites of the night, largely because it presented something I loved in a manner I’ve never seen done.First roasted to remove some of the fattiness, then pan fried to crisp, the dish of Crispy Belly of Pork with Virginia Asparagus, Jamon Iberico, Sauce Soubise was excellent.Minimally fatty for pork belly, the two slices were wrapped around a thin slice of Iberico ham that added a smoky flavor to the already intensely savory belly – paring the two pig proteins with potato batons, onion, and nutty green asparagus gave the dish a stew-like essence…it reminded me of a more refined version of the Pork Steak and Potatoes my Grandfather used to make…a good memory, to be sure.
For my final savory of the night I suggested no beef and instead received lamb – specifically Shenandoah Valley Rack of Lamb with Spring Onion Custard, Bluefoot Mushrooms, Lamb Jus.A substantial portion after already eating plenty of food and plenty of bread, I was quite impressed by this presentation – spring onions, fresh green garlic, supple bluefoot mushrooms, and a lovely custard that tasted of sage, onion, and chive – matched with the smoky lamb reduction there was no gaminess to be found.
Cheese courses at Eve are composed – always a risky maneuver for the kitchen that can backfire if the diner doesn’t like a specific cheese, but also a potential revelation if matched appropriately.For my mother’s selection, the pairing of Everona Piedmont with Poached Grapefruit and Eve’s Garden Lavender Honey was perfect – the smooth and fragrant sheep’s milk cheese wonderfully balanced by bitter/sour grapefruit and homegrown lavender honey…yeah, they make their own honey at Eve, too.
My cheese selection was a Stracapra with Applewood Smoked Onions and Cumin Seed Crackers plus house pressed Olive Oil.A cheese I’d not heard of it was introduced to me as a raw goats milk cheese but aside from its soft texture it could have passed as Tallegio – it’s sweetness well matched by the smoky onions.I personally didn’t feel the olive oil added much to the dish, but indeed, Eve presses its own olive oil too.
Our second intermezzo of the night was delivered shortly after the cheeses and consisted of a small Peanut Butter Cookie with Berry Mousse and Fresh Spring Strawberry – tasting like a crunchy peanut butter and Jelly sandwich it was tasty and refreshing, precisely what it was supposed to be.
My pre-dessert was small but tasty – probably as much food as the intermezzo and interestingly similar to the point where I wonder if it was planned.Titled Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Strawberry and Pistachio the overall feel of this was a smooth and buttery strawberry shortcake matched with crunchy pistachios – nutty, buttery, strawberry – similar flavors, different textures from the preceding dish.
For our desserts proper my mother’s selection was “Banana’s Foster” – Napoleon, Bourbon Bananas with Smoldering Cinnamon, Bourbon Caramel Gelato…essentially a Banana’s Foster deconstructed and focusing on each component of the traditional dish separately.With the bananas nicely caramelized and the fluffy pastry housing a smooth banana cream, the show stealer of the dish was indeed the gelato – a smooth boozy and buttery bite that worked nicely alone but better when mixed with the banana’s.Served with a smoldering cinnamon stick I had to chuckle when our server suggested that part was not edible – I was told the same at Alinea…and both times took it as evidence that someone must have once tried.
My dessert, interestingly (given the fact that I’d experience 5 other tastings of chocolate during this visit to the DC area) was a Tasting of Amano Chocolate with Pumpkin Seed Oil and Sea Salt.Featuring creamy and rich vanilla bean ice cream drizzled with caramel atop a profoundly rich smear of dark chocolate, a ribbon of citrus accented ganache, and a meltingly smooth yet bitter lava cake balanced out by coarse sea salt I found the dish to be good, though given Amano’s diverse collection I’d have personally liked to see more variations of chocolate than the seemingly unrelated ice cream.
Having written ahead to tell them we’d be celebrating my mother’s birthday in addition to the previously mentioned accomplishments we were next delivered what has become a signature dish of the Eve Bistro menu – the Birthday Cake.Expensive at $12 the cake was wonderful with a poundcake textured interior and rich buttercream frosting – as a larger version of the recipe has been published in that past by the Washington Post (http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/04/20/AR2006042002164.html) I do wonder if they used Kerrygold butter in the dish or if a “lesser butter” would produce a dish equally rich – if the later this could become a go-to standard cake recipe for myself.
Sipping my coffee, a rich (again housemade) blend, we were finally brought the check…along with a two-tiered platter of mignardises and some take home gifts.For the gifts, a unique concept – do-it-yourself at home to remember this night scone mix, kerrygold butter, and 2oz of whole bean coffee…the very blend I was sipping.Copies of the night’s menu were also provided and (as noted above) a copy of the spontaneous menu was mailed my way arriving at my home before I returned from DC.The mignardise plate – Almond Rochers, Strawberry Marshmellows, Chocolate Tartes, Buttercrisp Shortbreads – all quite tasty, particularly the Rochers.
Making our way to the door we had a glimpse of the small kitchen – almost too small to imagine so much great food coming from, especially with all the home curing, brewing, pressing, and roasting.Bid farewell by our primary server and the hostess we made our way to the street with our scones and butter in hand to find the world of old town Alexandria buttoned up tight and quiet – like Washington, VA the place seemed miles away from the metropolis of DC.Looking back on the meal I have to say it was a wonderful experience – the food Armstrong is putting out of that kitchen being some of the balanced and “unfussy” I’ve had at a restaurant of that caliber and his sourcing, business model, and dedication to a vision beyond reproach.
We got home late from The Inn At Little Washington – thankfully I slept in the car.Rising with the sun (and the troops across the street at Arlington Cemetery) I went for a run, woke my group, and off we went – first to see the morning scene at George Washington and Georgetown, then to see some monuments and for lunch.Getting off the metro around 7:30 we made our way West for coffee and baked goods at Baked and Wired – what better way to start a day?Arriving at the small shop in a light drizzle we chuckled at the poetry on the sign, the cute pink bicycle, and the cliché group of hipsters both inside and out.
Entering the small store we immediately checked out the baked goods – a formidable selection of small batch goods – the signs about quality were certainly accurate as everything appeared super fresh, many options still warm from the oven and more being produced as we browsed.Making our way to the coffee side we were greeted by a friendly young lady wearing neon pink eyeliner and a tutu – she informed us that the single drip roasts weren’t available until 11:00 so we opted for the house blend – happily a just-brewed carafe of Intelligentsia Agoga with rich nutty tones and a bit of fruit.
Coffees in hand we selected amongst the 30+ options and made our way to a small seating area in back.Wanting to keep it light we went with two choices each and shared – for my sister the selections were a VanillaLatte Cupcake with bold and creamy vanilla cake topped with espresso buttercream – smooth, pleasant, and without a bit of grit.Better than the cupcake was a Maple Ginger Sandwich Cookie, small but only $1.50 the soft cake and impossibly sweet filling was more Whoopie Pie than Cookie and it was great.
For my choices, first the traditional cupcake, a Red Velvet with substantial chocolate flavor, hints of vanilla and cinnamon, and an ethereal cream cheese frosting – on the short list for one of the best Red Velvets I’ve had – a stunning example that balanced the moisture and texture of the cake with airy yet substantial frosting.My second choice was the Caramel Apple Bar, largely because the server was just plating it, it was still warm, and it smelled heavenly.Described as apple pie meets caramel apple in bar form I can only add that there was some aspect of cobbler, as well , with brown sugar oatmeal crusting laying a backbone to the melting apples and buttery caramel.
Making our way out of the small shop it appeared we had just beat the rush; a line of 15+ extended down the tiny street as the rain began to pickup.Worthy of the praise I can certainly say Baked and Wired offers the best cupcakes we sampled in DC – the best customer service and “scene” as well.
After a few monuments and museums while trudging through the rain we met up with the family for a meal in which none of us were really sure what to expect…coming from small-town Ohio we hadn’t really had much experience with Indian food and our few tastes (save for my sister) were predominantly curry and salt laden options that left a bad impression.Having heard fantastic things about Rasika from trusted sources I decided it would be worth the experience – the menu options presented online certainly looked promising and diverse.
Arriving near the beginning of lunch service (actually, we were the first people in the restaurant) our umbrellas were checked and we were led to a nice table in the dining room.Greeted promptly by our server, an extremely pleasant and efficient young fellow named James, menus were presented, waters were filled, and drink orders were placed – water for myself anda delightful passionfruit iced tea for the ladies.Browsing the room it had a bit of a “hotel lobby chic” feel to it, but certainly no moreso than a place like CityZen or Le Bernardin.
Orders placed after a short while we sat back and talked for approximately 10 minutes before our first dish arrived – during this time the restaurant had gone from empty to bustling and nearly full and it would remain that way throughout our 90 minute visit.Presented by James the Bread Basket with Naan, Naan with Onion and Sage, and Mint Paratha was paired with a Chutney Sampler of Eggplant/Ginger, Tomato/Golden Raisin, Mango Chutneys.While I can’t say the dish was a good bargain ($14 for the combo) I will note that the Naans were delicate and puffy while all three Chutneys were delicious.Given the option between this and Zaytinya’s freebie Pita with Olive Oil, however, I’ll simply say it wasn’t worth the price (and goodness knows I’m not one to quibble prices when dining.)
Kicking off our proper courses we selected three appetizers – two because they were recommended by our server (and pretty much everyone who has eaten at Rasika) and the other because it sounded interesting.Starting with perhaps their most famous dish, Palak Chaat with Crispy Spinach, Sweet Yogurt, Tamarind, Date Chutney – yeah, it lives up to the hype.Impossibly crispy yet dissolving like the communion host at a catholic church the Spinach alone is worth the plate – when paired with its creamy, smoky, sweet constituents and blended the dish is simply a whole vastly greater than the sum of its parts.
The second highly recommended dish, Sev Batata Puri with Crispy Biscuit, Potatoes, Raw Mango, Gram Flour Vermicelli, Chutney also came from the savory/chaat section and it too was wonderful.More textural than the aforementioned Palak, the dish balanced a biscuit not-dissimilar to paratha with slices of sweet mango, mint and eggplant chutney, warm baked potatoes, and small noodles of chickpea flour.Another well balanced dish it was at this point that I started to realize my previous experience with Indian food was like using Taco Bell to gauge your interest in Mexican Cuisine.
Our third appetizer was Lamb Galouti – Pan Fried Minced lamb, cashew, saffron, tawa paratha over lemon sprouts.Featuring two small patties of seared lamb mixed with spices (think lamb sausage) served over crispy paratha and lemon sprouts the dish was topped with saffron cashew butter and a mild green curry with significant smokiness and a small amount of bitter/sweet balance – the entire bite tasting somewhat akin to a greek gyro with more heat and spice.
Pleasantly surprised thus far our plates were cleared and we browsed the room – to call Rasika a business hot-spot would be an understatement with most men suited and women in business clothes.After approximately fifteen minutes discussing the day’s plan our main courses arrived.For my aunt, Karwari Crab Cake with Mustard seeds, Curry leaves, coconut chutney.I had suggested to her that she shouldn’t order crab cakes at an Indian restaurant but she insisted and while I think we all agree it was the most average cake of the trip, it was still quite good and certainly a unique interpretation.More filling than I would have preferred, I’m rather certain the flour used was chickpea and the cake was well cooked.Using a creamy and sweet coconut chutney worked well with the crab and the mustard/curry combination added some needed smoke and savoriness.
My sister’s dish turned out to be the least nuanced and perhaps least “Indian” tasting of the group – Shrimp Malai Curry with Onions, Bay Leaf, Coconut Milk, Yoghurt was served as a steaming bowl of snappy fresh shrimp swimming in a sea of aromatic coconut, buttery onion, and Bay Leaf.Not sensing much of a traditional “curry” spice to the dish or the expected cool tang of the yogurt the shrimp was served with a mound of white rice which lent some starch and texture to the dish.
Chicken Biryani with Aromatic Chicken, Basmati Rice, Saffron, Raita was my mother’s selection and the bargain of the meal – at a mere $15 I’m rather certain she received 3/4 of a chicken served under a puffed pastry shell that was removed and placed on the plate to which James scooped out the chicken, creamy rice, and aromatic sauce teaming with pepper, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cinnamon (and I’m sure >3 other spices my naïve tongue failed to identify) forming an inverted pot-pie of sorts.Served alongside the dish was a creamy and cool cucumber sauce pleasantly adorned with the tang of yogurt and the flavors of mint and onion.Both on its own and with the Raita this dish was superb and given my mom’s meager appetite it was shared all around – a fantastic dish, better than any “chicken and rice” dish I’ve had.
My main course – I had to stay true to form and go with the duck.Narangi Duck with Duck Breast, Cashew Nut, Mace, and Orange Pulao honestly could have been better – the duck could have been more crispy and the rice a little softer.What worked in this dish, however, was the beautiful manner in which the softened cashews blended with the spice of the mace, the sweetness of the orange peel, and the creamy ghee based sauce with hints of garlic, ginger, cardamom, and orange.It was good, but not as good as that chicken.
Mains finished I opted for a coffee – clean and nutty served in a French Press while my sister chose a Masala Chai – almost smoky in flavor but full bodied, creamy, and minimally sweet.Along with our beverages we clearly needed to sample some Indian Desserts – two of which clearly taking influence from Europe and two unlike anything I’d ever ordered in the past.Beginning first with the familiar, my sister ordered Pumpkin Spice Crème Brulee – essentially a miniature pumpkin pie without the crust.With only the crystallized top pointing to the concept of Crème Brulee given the thickness of the contents I will note it was good, but more pie than crème brulee.
The second familiar option was my mothers, and it was a knockout.Showing the clear British influence on some aspects of Indian food the Date and Toffee Pudding could have been straight from a textbook – delicate and melting in the mouth, sucrose sweetness balanced with the buttery molasses tones of the toffee, steaming hot and smooth as silk.For the second day in a row it took effort to steal a bite of dessert from mom.
My dessert selection was Walnut Kulfi with Figs – according to our server the most traditional option on the sweets menu.A gritty and texturally complex ice cream the overall mouth feel of the ice cream strongly resembled Japanese Mochi with substantial notes of nuttiness and cardamom and sugar rising to the palate.Paired nicely with warmed figs and topped with crunchy walnut pieces it wasn’t my favorite of the desserts, but an experience I’m glad I tasted.
Carrot Halwa with cinnamon sabayon was the selection of my aunt and, served piping hot, it was my favorite of the desserts (a substantial compliment given the Toffee Pudding.)Having read about this dish in the past I’d planned to order it myself but was surprised when my aunt did so – then again given her love of Carrot cake I shouldn’t have been.Stirring memories of Carrot Cake in taste and Bread Pudding in texture the dish featured buttery tones balanced nicely with the taste of cinnamon and cardamom, a fibrous texture from the milk-boiled carrots, and ample hints of sweetness from raisins and sugar.With occasional pistachio inside and those on top adding more texture and a bit of the nut’s salty character I will certainly attempt to replicate this dish in the future.
When our meal at Rasika was all said and done the experience had done something few meals have done in recent memory – it changed my opinion on a whole genre of food…and it did the same for my mother and aunt.The unfortunate circumstance in living in the White-bread Midwest, at times, is a lack of experience with other cultures – or experiences that largely do not represent the best of what that culture has to offer.While some say Rasika is not entirely traditional all I can say is that what they are doing looks good, tastes good, and is served in nice setting by excellent servers – it also makes me want to try other Indian food in the future, whether at Rasika or elsewhere…except for that place in my home town.
I wanted a special restaurant to celebrate with the entire family – something classic, somewhere classy, someplace where the four of us could sit back, eat great food, and be taken care of as we celebrated mom’s birthday, my completion of residency, and our first long trip as a whole family in years…what better place than one of the most celebrated dining rooms in the entire United States – a 30 table restaurant in operation for greater than 30 years?Residing nearly 60 miles outside of Washington DC in a city known almost entirely for its restaurant and Inn, the trip to The Inn at Little Washington was quick and colorful…and when we finally stopped driving none of our cell phones had service – to call the restaurant remote would be an understatement.Parking the car and wandering about the small town, shops, and related properties while snapping some pictures the entire scene felt very quaint – small town Victorian America – like another place and another time.
Making our way to the doors of the famed restaurant I asked the young man at the door to snap a quick photo – with perfect manners he complied and jokingly said he acted both as the doorman and house photographer.Making our way into Patrick O’Connell’s famed lobby we confirmed our reservation, were welcomed cordially, and after a short wait were led to a fine table along the wall in the main dining room.Greeted shortly thereafter by the dining room manager and our primary server, a young and somewhat smug fellow named Landry, we were presented with personalized menus and our water was filled.Browsing around the glorious room the Victorian feel of the city was continued aplenty – heavy drapes in crimson and gold, pleasant lighting, fresh cut flowers, excellent spacing, and personalized white linen and china, crystal stemware, and silver covering each table – it is no wonder the Queen opted to dine at The Inn during her visit, everything felt very regal.
Browsing the contemporary menu – long titles with plenty of whimsy – I was delighted to see many of O’Connell’s signature dishes being offered that night and I was additionally impressed by his strong commitment to local businesses…everything from meats to cheeses to vegetables and fruits appeared to be locally sourced – much like the servers and staff, everything felt like it belonged in Little Washington.As we browsed and sipped our water another young man appeared to discuss wines – stating we didn’t consume alcohol my aunt and mother opted for Iced Tea while my sister and I stuck with water – as the young man disappeared another collected the wine glasses while a young woman delivered the night’s bread selection and a creamy cow’s milk butter.A quick taste of the two breads, a cornmeal crusted French baguette and pecan-raisin rye with sea salt, indicated the bread girl and I would become friends during the evening – given my seating against the wall this necessitated her reaching across on the first refill, but after that I simply presented her the plate…the bread was heavenly and we all ate too much of it.
With Landry still missing and our orders unplaced nearly 20 minutes after seating (thankfully his team did a great job taking care of us as he seemed rather disinterested, aloof, and preoccupied) another young man appeared from the kitchen presenting the night’s collection of canapés.Eight options total with five different bites I was a little confused as to why each diner wasn’t presented with one of each bite, but reading other reviews this seems to be the custom at The Inn.Spoiled as I am my family members allowed me to have a bite of each of the options – a Red Wine Risotto Ball, a Beet Purée with Cranberry and Horseradish, the “World’s Smallest Baked Potato,” a Lamb Carpaccio Riding a Surfboard on a Hummus Wave, and Saffron Parmesan Panna Cotta.Disliking the sharpness of the Horseradish in the beet dish I will note that both my aunt and mother raved about it – of the other options I quite liked each with the Lamb Carpaccio so good that it influenced my later order.
With Landry finally returning to take our orders I will note he was helpful – I had specific requests about adding additional courses and these were allowed without question; he didn’t question my gluttony even though my family did.With orders placed he noted our menus would be placed in an envelope at the front desk so they would not get damaged.Having requested the menu be signed if at all possible I was told that Chef O’Connell would be leaving early that night and may not have time to sign the menu (which he did not.)Shortly after Landry’s departure the kitchen once again brought us a treat – this time an amuse proper for each of us in the form of a split pea veloute with hints of grape paired with a crumbly and cheesy gougere.Creamy and sweet I loved the soup’s velvety texture and the sweetness balanced nicely with the salty and buttery ball of cheese.
A short while passed and we ate more bread (seriously, that French Roll is dangerously addictive) before our first courses began to arrive.For my mother and aunt the option was simple – with more esoteric items dominating the first part of the meal they each opted for the Chilled Main Lobster in Sherry Vinaigrette with Avocado, Grapefruit, Crispy Lotus Root.Presented beautifully in a rainbow of colors the lobster itself was chilled in a mild cream sauce and speckled in three large piles beneath the crispy lotus chips.Sweet and succulent the lobster was complimented with the acidity of bitter-sweet grapefruit, creamy chunks of avocado, and intensely sweet (especially for the season) fresh tomatoes.Tying the dish together were the pleasant notes of the vinaigrette – sour without being acidic, fragrant without overwhelming the subtleties of the composition.
For my sister’s first course, the mélange of Spicy Big Eye Tuna with Mango, Avocado, Crispy Shallots, and Sake-Yuzu Sorbet.A large portion with ruby red tuna, fresh as if it were just caught, complemented with traditional avocado and shallots but also with nectar sweet mango, lemony sorbet, and cracked pepper I quite liked the composition of this dish.Lacking the creaminess of most of the tartare dishes presented in fine dining these days the mélange was more…substantial, perhaps and the sorbet was a very nice accoutrement providing temperature and texture variability.
For my started I’d planned on the Tin of Sin – until I tasted the lamb carpaccio amuse.Arriving as a beautiful palate Carpaccio of Herb Crusted Baby Lamb with Caesar Salad Ice cream was marvelous – a single option charcuterie board flanked with potato wedges, onions, a leaf of crisp romaine dusted with parmesan, a smear of basil, and ice cream that tasted the very essence of Caesar dressing.Delicate, melting in the mouth – every bit as delicious as beautiful.
Clearing our plates it was only a matter of five minutes before our second courses arrived – a seemingly short time given the mere four courses, but oddly not overly quick as we lingered on each dish for some time.For my mother’s selection during this course she opted for Our ‘Lasagna’ of Morels, Country Ham, and Asparagus – the least attractive of the group but perhaps the most delicious.Featuring a free-form lasagna with hand torn noodles draped around a smoky ham, fresh earthy morels, and the most fragrant green asparagus I’ve yet encountered the dish was finished tableside with parmesan and a buttery sauce that warranted extra bread for mopping up.
Erika’s selection was From Our Hen House – Spinach and Cheese Filled Ravioli with Molten-Gold Center – a dish that reminded me in presentation of the duck egg ravioli at Osteria Mozza but in flavor and constituents blew it out of the water.Lightly fried and loaded with ricotta and a liquid egg the pasta burst open on piercing allowing its contents to meld with the pool of butter, pine nuts, and crispy spinach – yet another dish that begged for additional bread.
For aunt, the most linear macaroni and cheese ever – Macaroni and Cheese with Virginia Country Ham and Shaved Black Summer Truffle.7 handmade tube pastas, perfectly al dente, lined along a curl of crispy pastry over a slice of ham formed the backbone for the dish which was topped with a small salad of chopped crystal lettuce, oven browned buttery bread crumbs, mozzarella, parmesan, black truffle, and a sauce not dissimilar from Béchamel.Fortunate enough to land a single noodle I find the notion of this being called Macaroni and Cheese the same as calling the Vatican “a church.”
For my second dish – a no brainer – A Marriage of Hot and Cold Foie Gras with Sauternes Jelly and Pickled Cherries plus Brioche.A marriage in that they remained separate identities but worked well together both preparations were stunning examples – the char and mildly smoky flavor of the seared versionwell tamed by the use of a red-wine and fig reduction and the terrine a smooth and subtle slice with only touch of sugar from the sauternes jelly and some sourness from the picked cherries.Spoiled as I am I rather wished someone would have brought more warm brioche as I ran out rather quickly, but a simple request produced more within a few minutes.
Fully admitting that when I go out to eat I try to sample the best in variety, house specials, and my personal favorite foods I simply couldn’t decide on one main course – so I ordered two.At a mere $30 surcharge the decision was simple and after fifteen minutes of reveling in the flavors of our second courses the mains began to arrive.For my aunt, another lobster course – this time the Pan Roasted Maine Lobster with Braised Baby Bok Choy in a Fragrant Coconut Sauce Perfumed with Lemongrass.Served simply but elegantly in a large bowl the whole lobster was flawless – sweet and tender yet snappy moist.Complimenting the crustacean was buttery bok choy and a silky smooth coconut butter sauce with only the faintest hints of lemon.
My mother’s main course was a bit of a mistake for someone with a small appetite (and already full on bread plus a previous pasta course.)Artichoke Filled Cappelletti with Braised Artichokes Perfumed with Mint was a substantial portion – at least 10 stuffed pastas matched with a buttery morel sauce, crispy pan braised artichokes, and only the faintest accents of mint.Impressively thin and wonderfully prepared the pasta hats alone were on par with the best pastas I’ve ever tasted but when paired with the earthy sauce and crispy artichokes the whole dish was a wonderful surprise – and I got to eat plenty of it.
Miniature Filets of Black Cod Saute with Lemon Vodka Sauce and Lilliputian Shrimp Dumplings, my sister’s choice, was another winner in terms of preparation but I found the potency of the sauce a tad overwhelming of the mild fish.Speckling the plate with seared mushrooms and miniature shrimp dumplings I enjoyed the manner that everything was cooked – crispy yet tender – but in general I did not enjoy the dish quite as much as the others…my sister, on the other hand, raved it.
For our “shared” main – plated at the center of the table but largely consumed by myself – I opted for the Duet of Peking Duck:Seared Breast and Braised Leg with Turnip Puree and Dried Plum Sauce.Delectably fatty and ample in portion this dish was a stunner with the confit leg served over an applesauce accented turnip puree and the large slices of breast perfectly seared crisp and interspersed with whole figs and a vinegar accented plum sauce.
My second main course was potentially O’Connell’s most famous dish – a playful reinterpretation entitled Pepper Crusted Tuna Pretending to be a Filet Mignon Capped with Seared Duck Foie Gras on Charred Onions with Burgundy Butter Sauce.First of all, yes, I know I ate three slices of Foie Gras in this meal and I don’t feel bad about it – this dish was a masterpiece.Peppery without being overly spicy the large slice of tuna was seared brown on the exterior yet ruby red inside – “rare” if you will, and topped with a slice of smooth and buttery liver that was literally melting like butter over the fish.Serving as a base to the proteins were three large onion rings and two types of squash – a pungent meets vegetal accompaniment to the hearty flavors above.
Arriving to check in on us Landry offered the dessert menu and coffee or tea (included in the dinner price) – with two coffees and two herbal teas ordered we perused the menu and made our selections, again adding one additional dish at the cost of $20.Moments later we heard the ringing of a bell and the “moo” coming our way.Perhaps one of the most iconic images of The Inn, Faira the Cow, arrived after a long trot across the restaurant and with her a fromagier from the kitchen who helped guide each of us to a selection of 6 (out of easily 25) beautiful cheeses; Barely Buzzed – Cow, Albarene Ash – Goat, Skyline Blue – Sheep, Cave Aged Gruyere – Cow, Camembert – Cow, Other Raw Goat (name forgotten) along with Walnuts, Apricots, Honey and a basket of water crackers and thinly sliced bread.Whimsical to say the least each of the cheeses was excellent, particularly the Barely Buzzed and Albarene Ash.
Moving on to sweeter things, our desserts arrived after approximately 20 minutes and a refill of coffee.For my mother, a lemon and rhubarb fiend, Our Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp, Moonshine Laced Lemon Pudding Cake, and Strawberry Honeysuckle Ice Cream.To ask if this was good you’d have to ask my mom – normally one to share anything with her children I got only a small bite of the pudding cake – I was lucky to even get a picture.
For my selection, like the foie gras, it was another no brainer.Steaming hot and somewhat different from a traditional bread pudding The Inn’s Warm Custard Bread Pudding accented with Solera Vinegar and Pickled Cranberries was my favorite dish of the night in a night that contained nothing but fantastic food.Highly accented with vanilla and sugar the custard pudding itself was remarkable – almost soufflé light yet moist and delicate with hints of acidity peaking though in the lower layers.Paired with spun sugar, minced quince, and the pickled cranberries the dish was sweet without being overly so – a truly remarkable choice and amongst the most complex desserts I’ve had in some time.
For my aunt the choice was between a trio and a septuplet – in the end she went with the trio.Entitled “A Chocolate Manage a Trois” with Black Forrest Mousse Bombe, Chocolate Crème Brulee, and Bitter Chocolate Soufflé I will admit that the qualities of the chocolates here were ethereal despite the dessert being somewhat undersized compared to the other selections.Featuring a soufflé that was easily 68% cocoa and a Bombe that may have been pushing 80% the focus of the dish was clearly on dark chocolates and it was all the better for it, especially when combined with the significant sweetness of the Brulee and chocolate ribbon.
Erika’s dessert selection was the house favorite Seven Deadly Sins with the Bombe from the Manage a Trois, the Rhubarb Crisp, a wheel that tasted like a divine Tiramisu, butter pecan ice cream, a creamy panna cotta, banana rum cake, and a mint chocolate ice cream cookie.While the flavors were certainly somewhat disconnected the point of this dish was clearly quality, quantity, and gluttony.Tasted by everyone at the table I will note that I particularly enjoyed the cocoa and coffee wheel while Erika raved the mint chocolate cookie.
With dessert completed we were presented a cute and kitschy box of mignardises in the shape of the Inn.Finely crafted of paper and filled with Candied Lemon and Orange Peel, Almond Cookies, Chocolates, and shortbread I appreciated the attention to detail and the humor – as refined as everything is at The Inn they’ve clearly not lost their sense of humor.
Sitting and chatting after paying the bill I asked Landry if we could see the kitchen and was told “of course” but warned that it would take a few moments.Not in any rush we sat in the parlor where Faira resides for approximately 5 minutes before the maitre d’ arrived to escort us to the renovated kitchen – a kitchen that puts all but Alinea’s to shame in terms of sheer size, cleanliness, and grandeur.Greeted by the sous chef (acting as Chef du cuisine that evening as O’Connell had to leave early) we were told of the kitchen’s history, their reasons for the unique animal themed decorations (and Dalmatian pants) and largely treated as VIPs throughout our tour around each station – I’d recommend the kitchen visit to anyone interested, it is awe-inspiring.
Making out way out the way we came we were bid farewell by everyone from the hostess to the maitre d’, to the door boy – everyone except Landry who walked right past us without a word.Having heard rumors that The Inn at Little Washington had slipped a notch or two in recent years I have to admit I was bit hesitant about making it the family meal of the visit when I was originally planning, but in the end it turned out to be an absolute delight – the city, the restaurant, and particularly the food which was some of the most delicious and elegantly presented I’ve ever tasted.While our server could use some lessons from the crew at any number of 4 to 5 star restaurants the rest of the staff was fantastic and I’d strongly encourage anyone considering the Inn to make the journey – they aren’t reinventing the wheel, but they’re certainly fine tuning it.
In planning the DC trip I got shut out on minibar and decided instead to sample Andres’ from a more casual standpoint – three lunches during the visit.Having experienced Zaytinya on Saturday it seemed only logical that I should follow that visit up with a trip to the famous Latino Dim Sum at Café Atlantico.Described as “Nuevo Latino” the menu runs the gamut from $2 to $10, a single bite to a full plate, and from Latin to Asian to just plain bizarre.Open for nearly two decades I’d heard that the experience wasn’t as novel as it may have been in the past but overall the reviews were solid, the reservation was available, and the menu was loaded with dishes that sounded at least interesting and at best downright brilliant.
Arriving as the restaurant opened its doors we sat at the bar for only 10 minutes before being led upstairs by our server, a lovely young lady named Lauren.Guiding us through the menu options, suggested number of courses, and fielding questions about various dishes for my picky family she was knowledgeable and friendly – in addition to this our beverages were kept full to the brim throughout the meal – for myself coffee and water, for my aunt the Dominican Lemonade, for mother the mint limeade, and for my sister hot tea.Without going into excessive detail I will also note that my mother, a longtime Meniere’s sufferer, had a rather severe attack midway through our brunch and both Lauren and two other servers checked in immediately to make sure everything was okay – after explaining the condition they offered to do anything they could to help, an appreciated gesture although there was really nothing they could do but wait for the spell to pass.
The above noted I have to say I was quite taken by the colors, layout, and atmosphere of Café Atlantico.Seated just across from the famous minibar the room was spacious and light with high ceilings, four layers, and a centrally located kitchen wide open for viewing.Casual but refined the platings were well manicured and colorful while the individual course presentations were accurate, appropriate in temperature, and served at a pace that was neither too quick nor overly long – the ability to order in waves was also appreciated, especially given my mother’s condition.
Kicking off the meal we opted for Andres’ famous Tableside Guacamole with corn chips and Cotija cheese – at $14 I rather expected something excellent but what we received was merely “good.”Opting for “medium” spiciness the flavor was actually quite mild – less tasty and less spicy than the mild version at Topolobampo.While I enjoyed the tableside preparation the man making it said little and merely plopped the stone bowl down after finishing – without adding the cheese.Approximately a minute later (as we sat there wondering if the cheese had been incorporated without our noticing) the manager arrived with the cheese and topped the dish, acting largely as if this were planned when it was clearly forgotten.With the added sharpness and salinity of the cheese the flavors were indeed improved – but not in line with the price.
For our first round of savories we received the Pineapple shavings with plantain powder and tamarind oil and Hot & cold foie gras and corn soup plus two cute Chinese take-out boxes.First tasting the Pineapple all I can say was that it was bland – almost as if the pineapple simply was not fresh.With a bit of spice and a unique banana tinge my aunt notably liked the dish, but overall the added flavors did nothing for me.Moving on to the soup, essentially a double-shot containing warm corn chowder topped with chilly foie gras froth – it was again good, but not great.Tasting almost like a liquid corn bread I liked the hot/cold interplay and the manner in which the initial taste was sweet corn while the lingering flavor on the palate was the sapor of the foie gras.
.
Contained in the take out boxes were two starch dishes, the Cauliflower-quinoa “cous-cous” and the Coconut rice, crispy rice & ginger.Beginning with the quinoa, quite frankly this fit right in the Chinese Take-Out box.With almost imperceivable flecks of crispy cauliflower dotting the well prepared quinoa the overall flavor was merely salty and soy – this was my least favorite dish of the meal, though my sister (who ordered it) quite liked it. The second box was much more well composed, more nuanced, and a favorite amongst all at the table.Essentially a savory risotto taking on elements of rice pudding I loved the manner in which the mild coconut essence rose to the palate while hints of ginger and sweetness pleased the tongue.Adding contrast were rice puffs, only somewhat more crispy than those made by the folks at Kellogg’s – somehow it worked perfectly.
Moving on to our next round of courses, again served in pairs separated by 7-15 minutes, the first pairing received was Mushrooms with egg 63 and Huitlacoche & wild mushroom quesadilla.Beginning with the egg, a sous-vide preparation I’d experienced at The Bazaar but this time paired with a hearty stew of woodsy mushrooms as opposed to silky potato puree, it was perfect – the creaminess and smoothness of the egg balancing competently with the fibrous and aromatic fungi.Fittingly arriving with the egg was another mushroom dish, this time a pan-crisped house-made tortilla housing layers of silky portabella mushroom, smoky corn-smut, and melted cheese.
The second pairing to arrive, ordered by my aunt and sister respectively, were Endive with Queso Fresco Espuma Walnuts and pomegranate and Scallops with cauliflower puree.Without belaboring the point significantly I will note the Endive was rather uninspired – bitter greens, a flavorless cloud of foam, a chopped walnut or two, and some pomegranate…the overall flavor was simply dull with only the pomegranate showing any pizzazz.Contrary to the bland Endive were the Scallops – fresh, immense, buttery and only pan-kissed they would have been excellent on their own – paired with a mild puree of what seemed to be only sieved cauliflower and garlic they were flawless.
It was around this time that my mother’s vertigo flared – the servers were confused and things were slightly delayed, but after everything settled down and I explained the situation the meal was back on pace – with six dishes arriving only moments apart.Beginning first with the dish ordered but not tasted by my mother, Chicken Wing, Sweet Potato Puree, Blue Cheese I will say that these boneless wings were crisp, juicy, and not at all spicy – instead they were mildly sweet and well complimented by the bite of the cheese and the smoothness of the sieved potatoes.Arriving along with the Chicken wings were the Malanga chips Plantains and curry, a light and tasty dish of paper thin taro flash fried and well accented with sweet plantains and pungent curry.
Two seafood dishes arrived quickly – the first my aunt’s Seared crabcake with citrus and the second the famous Conch fritters with a liquid center ordered by myself.An excellent crabcake light on filler and heavy on crab the dish was compact yet tasty – the sweet crab well matched with two bitter-sweet slices of grapefruit and a small salad.More impressive than the crab, however, were the Conch fritters – literally a corndog style ball loaded with a creamy cheese and chunks of fresh conch.Three to the box, eat-smile-repeat.
Our final two savories were Tuna ceviche with coconut and Fried egg with mashed black beans & pork.Straight forward and citrus kissed the nearly raw tuna was fresh and complimented texturally by the crunchy and smooth coconut.With small specks that tasted almost like graham crackers dotting the plate I quite liked the small bite my sister allowed me to taste.The second dish – essentially the most savory “ham n’ eggs” you can imagine.Crispy on the exterior yet runny inside the egg simply melted together with the heavy flavors of the black beans and smoky pulled pork while crunchy tortillas added texture.
With mom feeling better but still not up for eating we decided to order dessert – at $9 we selected three options and they all arrived simultaneously.Selecting the chocolate item du jour my aunt received warm chocolate cake with Venezuelan chocolate flan,banana foam and fresh banana-lime salad.While I personally did not note the lime, there was certainly a citrus accent to the plate that worked unexpectedly well with the lava-style cake and smear of chocolate flan – it prevented this from being a simple exercise in chocolate and bananas that predominates so many dessert menus these days.
My sister’s option was warm Apples & Raisins with cinnamon brick dough, green apple sorbet & tamarind sauce.Crisp and somewhat akin to a strudel I found the entire dish quite tart with only the raisins acting to add sweetness.With the apples served warm the apple sorbet melted quickly and again seemed too sour for my palate – perhaps I just like sweet desserts…
Speaking of sweet desserts, my choice for dessert was Cuatro Leches “Morir Soñando” – leche merengada ice cream, oranges and almond.Having tasted tres leches multiple times in the past this dish added almond milk and true to form was intensely sweet.With an almost butter-cake texture to the pastry itself I loved the mingling of sweet-milky tones and particularly enjoyed the notes of almond milk and crumbled almonds as they contrasted with the citrusy orange slices.
When the meal was finished my mother opted to return to the hotel with my aunt while my sister and I opted for the National Gallery – with our big family meal planned at The Inn at Little Washington that evening mom needed some time to get her strength back while we needed to walk off some of Jose Andres’ handiwork.Looking back on the meal I have to say it was the least impressive of the ThinkFoodGroup’s offerings, but certainly not a bad or overpriced meal for the quality of the food and service.While some items shined others left me wondering what the big deal was – unlike The Bazaar, Zaytinya, or the vast majority of our tapas at Jaleo.At some point I’d still like to get back to minibar, regardless – especially if it happened to be on a night when Andres was in the kitchen.
Day two in Washington DC began with a long run around Arlington – 7 miles in approximately 55 minutes had me quite hungry despite the previous day’s gluttony and I returned to the hotel thankful that my family had stopped by Red Velvet Cupcakery the previous night.Profoundly creamy and smooth in texture the cakes themselves were delectable while the cream cheese frosting on the Red Velvet was smooth, sweet, and without a bit of grit – classically done and all the better for it.With three quarter-cupcakes remaining I will admit my sampling may have been a bit skewed due to their being baked the day beforebut overall I found their signature Red Velvet to be great while the cookies and cream and peanut butter cup were rather bland and dry.
Ready to face the day my sister and I next made our way to the streets of Arlington and walked to the nearest Metro.Arriving downtown shortly after 7:30am not much was open and my sister was hungry so we opted to stop by Café du Parc for a morning bite to eat.Located at the elegant Willard hotel we made our way into the marbled dining room and after browsing the menu opted to enjoy pastries and coffee at the counter – we already had brunch plans, anyhow.Greeted by a pleasant fellow with a thick French accent we each opted for a coffee – smooth and nutty, served with a free Madeline (Chocolate for Erika, Lemon for myself,) and refilled repeatedly including a cup to go for a mere $3.
Accompanying my sister’s coffee was a pain au chocolate – buttery and crisp outside, still warm on the inside, but overall lacking the amount of chocolate I would expect.Tasty, sure – and a good deal at $2, but not remarkable in any way.Her Madeline, on the other hand, was divine – smooth and spongy yet yielding to the bite – cocoa accented but not overwhelmingly so.
Alongside my coffee I opted for a small almond croissant –a shocking $2 for a two-bite pastry, but largely worth the price given its luxurious texture with buttery and flaky shell, airy interior, and ample notes of buttery almonds – and a pain au raisin, the best dish of the meal in my opinion with notes of apple, cinnamon, and a sweet glaze that worked well the sucrose of the raisins.While my Madeline certainly wasn’t as good as the cocoa version its light lemony flavor was textbook – I only wish it had been more pillowy and fresh.
Settling the modest bill we made our way to the street quite happy with the experience – everything about the Café exuded an air of Europe and even if it was a tad contrived given its location I can’t really argue with well done French pastry – not when they are basically impossible to find at home.On future visits I’d definitely consider coming back for lunch or brunch – the continental buffet looked and smelled excellent.
…I’ll admit it, when I was originally planning my trip to Washington DC Vidalia was not on my dinner list – it was penciled in as a potential lunch.Of course I’d heard of RJ Cooper – a Beard Award winner in 2007 who grew up just up the road from my childhood home in Northwest Ohio – it’s just that DC’s dining scene seemed so dynamic that I couldn’t commit to a “classy southern” restaurant, no matter how good their Pecan Pie supposedly was.Obviously my opinion was swayed when I heard about Cooper’s newest project, though – a 24 course chef’s tasting menu presented by Cooper to 8 lucky guests each Friday and Saturday.
By the chef’s own accord the idea to start Vidalia 24 was based on what Chef Bryan Voltaggio is doing up at Volt’s Table 21 in Frederick – he noted that Voltaggio blew him away with a few dishes and he felt the need to do something equally innovative…not particularly to “one up” Volt, but rather to show his culinary skills and to provide diners with a unique experience.Having experienced Volt Table 21 only 6 days after Vidalia 24 there are notable differences; at Volt you are in the kitchen while at Vidalia you are in the bar, at Volt Bryan introduces himself but largely allows his team to handle the cooking and plating while at Vidalia RJ works with a single additional chef and does everything from cooking to plating to describing the dishes for himself, at Volt things feel formal while at Vidalia the atmosphere is one of eating in your friend’s kitchen – if your friend is a humorous and down to earth Beard Award winning chef willing to discuss everything from his children to his dislike of The Buckeyes to the EMP after party to his opinions of everyone from Daniel Boulud to Thomas Keller to Grant Achatz to the stars of the DC dining scene.An additional difference – at Vidalia 24 copious wine pairings are included for $150 (or non-alcoholic pairings for $120) while at Volt Table 21 there is no included pairing and they charge for non-alcoholic beverages.
Without further discussion of service (top notch) or comparison to other DC tables I will note that the crowd at Vidalia 24 consisted of two groups of three (mother, father, and son in both cases) plus myself – all of us experienced diners who engaged readily with Chef Cooper about our experiences and listened intently as he described his.Seated at 7:30 our water was filled (Voss Sparkling and Fiji Still) and drink pairings began – champagne for the drinkers and a delightful Passionfruit soda for myself – each drink presented and poured by sommelier Ed Jenks.With a total of 8 alcoholic beverages (and 4 non-alcoholic drinks) poured during the course of the meal I will note that conversation became much more lively as the night progressed – but even with the noise and music from the bar the noise level was never problematic – if anything it added to the experience.
For our first course of the evening we received one of the two constants on the Vidalia 24 menu – Sterling Caviar-Egg-Crème Fraiche.Featuring the salty fish roe sitting alongside a “pappardelle” of egg, cream, and butter the classic flavors are paired with a lemony emulsion, chive, and a toast point.Elegant and potent yet attractive and balanced the dish provides a smooth opening to the menu and a glimpse of the type of creative whimsy with classic flavors that dominates much of the 24 course experience.
The second course was entitled Uni-Sake Caviar-Guanciale-Squid Ink Toast and per Chef Cooper’s admission it was inspired by exactly what I guessed on first taste – the Uni/Lardo dish at Marea.Featuring a compressed Panini of salty grilled black bread wrapped around the delicate and unctuous urchin tongue the flavors were brought to a peak on the palate by the vegetal savoriness of the jowl bacon.
Dish three was a bit of heat following the more refined opening dishes, a hearty dish of Beef Heart-Jalapeno-Pickled Radish.Meaty and spicy the combination of offal and jalapeno was tempered by the sour radish – not my favorite dish of the evening only because I don’t largely favor the flavor of jalapeno peppers.
Almost as if sensing the need to temper the heat the followup dish to the beef heart was entitled Distillation-Tiki, a liquid nitrogen preparation of strawberry and yogurt that tasted like a daiquiri and left each diner blowing smoke from his/her nostrils a la the Dragon Popcorn at minibar or the Scallop at Moto.
Moving back to fish courses (part of what I loved about Vidalia 24 was the non-linear progression that kept surprising the palate) our fifth course was Madai -Avocado-2 Pepper Powders and featured a thin cut of Madai belly served over a creamy avocado panna cotta alongside a Madai tartare topped with a torched slice of avocado.Creamy vegetable paired with melt-in-the-mouth fish may seem to lack nuance, but in fact the overall balance of the dish was quite excellent – mild yet smoky with hints of the pepper peaking though only slightly.
Dish number six was another mild exercise in molecular gastronomy and a resounding success – Entitled Olive-Peas-Goat Cheese the dish featured a small piece of creamy goat cheese topped with paper forms that tasted the very essence of black olives and sweet peas.Adding another degree of texture was a small olive and a soupy pea veloute – salty yet sweet, crunchy yet smooth – excellent.
Dish seven was a course that RJ appeared quite proud of – a dish of house made Ricotta-Honey-Tellicherry later finshed with Mani Olive oil and a slice of and Brioche Toast.Instructed to eat the cheese separate and to add peppercorns as desired I absolutely loved the mouth feel of the cheese as it slowly melted in the mouth giving off only the mildest hints of saltiness as it blended with the sucrose of the honey and grassy glory of the Mani.Using the Brioche only to cleanse the palate between bites I was grateful for something so subtle to taste so divine.
Dish eight was the only dish of the night that did not work for me.Entitled Musk Melon-Shrimp Powder-Ham Oil I knew the moment the plate was described that it would be a challenge to overcome my dislike of musk melon, the flavor that overpowers all others.An admirable attempt with the shrimp and ham poking through the cloying sweetness I found the flavors to be largely Asian in influence – like a sweet pork and shrimp dumpling at a dim sum house, perhaps.Served alongside this dish was my second non-alcoholic pairing (not pictured) – a drink that the sommelier announced as “wink” – Pink Grapefruit, Lemongrass, and Lime.
Dish nine was a small bite entitled Asparagus-Hot Mayo-Bresaola marking a return to more refined and balanced flavors.Beefy and smoky yet subdued by the snappy asparagus and creamy egg emulsion I liked this bite on its own and appreciated its placement in the menu even more so when our next dish arrived.
Dish ten, Ham Hock-Scallop-Cracklings, was one of my favorites of the evening.Featuring a foamy soup that exuded the very essence of ham hock topped with a single chip of cracklings the diners were instructed to take the spoon of tartare scallop and mix it into the soup before downing it like a shot.Smoky and savory yet briny and creamy the dish’s balance of hot/cold, sea/earth was absolutely beautiful – the cracklin used to scrape the bowl clean was pretty darn tasty too.
For dish eleven we were presented a game – a dish entitled “Rocks” that were to consume from front to back and “guess what the flavors are.”Featuring a Spring onion “tree” lying across a green path meant to represent Chef Cooper’s back yard the rocks themselves were a Yukon gold potato, a creamy sheep’s cheese, and something akin to sourcream and the whole dish largely resembled a traditional baked potato – cute, clever, and whimsical and tasty.
Dish twelve was a classic and was presented using minor tweaks in classic flavor pairings.Titled Foie Gras-Cherry-Whisky Pound Cake the dish was a thin strip of creamy foie gras terrine topped with cherry jam resting atop a punchy pound cake with hefty hints of whisky.Tempering the dish and adding additional contrast was a dehydrated nut butter and crumbled oats plus small drops of 100-year vinegar.Beautiful.
The followup to the foie gras was a dish simply entitled “Liquid” but described as Liquid Chicken-Black Truffle-Parmesan in a pate a choux pastry.While I tried not to compare the dish I just couldn’t help myself as the diners around me ooh’d and ahh’d – everything about this dish tasted of Grant’s Black Truffle Explosion plus a little bit of chicken stock but the execution simply wasn’t as elegant or balanced.
Following the liquid was a return to sweet dishes and another paired beverage – this time Green Tea-Yuzu-Taragon-Honey, a bitter drink which I sipped only twice before allowing it to be discarded.Where the drink lacked, the dish shined – another of the permanent collection on Vidalia 24 – Bread n’ Bacon.Featuring bacon and Vidalia onion-flavored ice cream produced utilizing custard, bacon fat, and caramelized onions alongside a maple accented strip of pan friend brioche and candied baked Benton’s bacon the dish is finally finished with a drizzle of caramel which produces a startling sweet yet savory amalgam with excellent balance in temperature, texture, and flavor.
Dish fifteen again jolted us back into the realm of savories, and in a very nice way.Titled Eel-Smoke-Seaweed-Grapefruit the dish paired sous-vide eel that was torched tableside with fresh seaweed and a seaweed gelee plus a spot of grapefruit and a creamy sauce similar to Béchamel.While the gelee was a bit watery, the rest of the flavors worked very well.
Dish sixteen was fishy; almost too much so at first bite but later finding its footing when tasted with its counterparts.Featuring sous-vide sturgeon, briny salmon roe, crisp (and paper thin) radishes, plus a streaking of pungent green garlic I found this dish slightly less balanced than the prior fishes, but a good transition from the eel to the following dishes.
Dish seventeen arrived with my final drink pairing – the best of the night consisting of Muddled Blackberry, Basil, Balsamic, and simple Sugar.For the dish itself we were presented something inspired by Chef Cooper’s past in Detroit – his rendition of a dish served at “The Lark” – a restaurant still standing and amongst the best in Michigan.Entitled Lamb-Peanut-Rye and served with a fresh Fiddlehead and lamb/potato napoleon the dish worked brilliantly with the nutty lamb loin (Elysian Fields sourced if I remember correctly) balancing beautifully with the peanut foam and vegetal lending’s of the fiddlehead.
Dish eighteen was off-putting to some if only due to its name; Squab-Blood-Rhubarb.Plated as a grilled breast of squab and a southern fried leg the meaty bird was paired with a pile of melting confit-style rhubarb, a similar Béchamel to that served with the eel, and a red drizzle that tasted not so much like blood but more like a sour balsamic – blood orange, perhaps?Once everyone got over the title the dish was a hit – it was one of my favorites of the evening.
Dish nineteen was an intermezzo of sorts – a shot glass entitled Elixer-Mirepoix.Tasting like a spicy V8 the notes of onions, celery, carrots, and parsley filled the palate and the nostrils.While I’d have considered serving this dish earlier in the meal, it worked here to open up the palate for the upcoming final savory.
For our savory I decided to once again give beef a try.While I’m not a fan of steak or hamburger flavor or texture in general my two previous experiences with Wagyu were pleasant enough and in this case Chef Cooper was proudly touting his sourcing of the highest grade of been available in the United States – A7 Wagyu.Entitled Wagyu-Morels-Favas-Potatos-Onions the dish was served as a sort of shabu-shabu with a hearty broth with notes of Morel, Onion, and Beans and potato crisps serving as the base.Dropping the marbled pink slices of beef into the broth for merely a moment I opted to first taste the meat solo and then along with the bowl’s constituents.Smooth as silk and literally melting in the mouth the beef possessed the texture of toro and a sweet grassy flavor – paired with the broth the entirety of the dish was almost like a beef stew in its perfect form.
Dish twenty one would mark our cheese course – in this case prepared by the sous-chef at the table.Entitled Cayuga Blue-Strawberry-Spiced Cashews the dish enlisted a crumbly and pungent raw goat’s milk cheese to pair with a smear of strawberry jam and crunchy warmed cashews.One of the best composed cheese courses I’ve had and the first time I’ve had a Goat’s milk blue.
Dish twenty two was Mango-Rum-Coke, a refreshing little bite we were instructed to consume all at once.Featuring a fried plantain, cold mango, pineapple pate du fruit, and an ice cream that tasted somewhat akin to pistachio on its own the flavors melded nicely when complained with the drops of rum and cola gelee to form a flavor reminiscent of Captain Morgan’s Parrot Bay and Coke.
Our final dessert of the menu was entitled Chocolate Textures 2010 and Chef Cooper made a point of letting us know that this was his dish before Bryan made it famous on the Table 21 menu at Volt.Presented beautifully the dish ran the gamut from hot to cold, crunchy to smooth, white to milk to dark to so bitter it made you wince.Having experienced the Chocolate degustation at Vidalia, The Inn at Little Washingon, Restaurant Eve, Volt, and Citronelle during my visit I’ll simply say Vidalia’s was only rivaled by The Inn…and theirs only had three options on the plate.
Titled Finishing Touch our mignardise plate consisted of Bubblegum Marshmallows and Chocolate Chip Cookies plated for the group and placed at the center of the table on a wooden charcuterie board.Tasting exactly like bubblegum the marshmallow was tasty but paled in comparison to the cookies, which (although I could have been imagining things) tasted almost bacon infused and salty.
Opting against coffee as it was getting quite late (11:30pm) in a day that had begun in the gym at 4am I was ready to leave when Chef Cooper decided to sit down at the table with us to chat.Jovial and pleasant despite a long day in the kitchen he shared with us more stories of his love of motorcycles and rock, his life and family, and his myriad experiences both in the kitchen and at the table in some of the world’s finest restaurants – to be fair, even without the amazing food the experience of chatting with a Beard Award winning chef at such a level would have justified the $120 tab.Joking with Chef Cooper regarding a recent article in the Washington Post about their Pecan Pie I asked if really was the best in the city to which the answer was “nah, its terrible” followed by a short story about how long their pastry chef had been working at Vidalia and a “hey, pack this guy up a slice of Pecan Pie to go.”Stating that this wasn’t necessary he insisted – stating that it would go great with coffee in the morning.
Thanking the chef and his team for the wonderful food, experience, and generosity I made my way to the street where my family awaited and while I’d like to say the Pie made it to the next morning that would be a lie – with both my sister and myself rating Pecan Pie amongst our favorite desserts it was quickly consumed on arrival back at the hotel.Featuring a nearly pudding textured interior that tasted of boozy caramel paired with a buttery crisp crust and crunchy yet supple candied pecans there was no disagreement in our group with the Post – this was the best Pecan Pie that any of us had ever tasted.A beautiful ending to a fantastic day and a truly one of a kind experience.Great food with superior ingredients, a fantastic price with or without wine parings, wonderful service and a Chef who is going out of his way to please each and every guest – without a doubt Vidalia 24 is an experience to be cherished.
…I enjoyed the Bazaar when I was in LA and I had every intention to attend minibar while I was in DC – except of course for the fact that it takes an act of God (or political connections, I hear) to get reservations at minibar (Fact: it is the first reservation I’ve ever tried consistently for and failed to achieve.)Un-deterred and already with a myriad of DC’s top tables on my dinner itinerary for the trip I opted for plan B – to exploit the fact that each of Andres’ restaurants were open at lunch with a menu nearly identical to dinner.Deciding that Zaytinya, the highest regarded of the group, had the most solo-friendly menu I made reservations for mid-day Saturday during their brunch service.
Open since 2003, Zaytinya (Turkish for Olive Oil per my server) continues Owner/Operator José Andrés’ small plates concept while focusing on his interpretation of the cuisine of Turkey, Greece, and Lebanon – cuisines that I’d experienced but never truly delved into due to lack of those populations in my place of residence.With Mike Isabella, a name known to many from Top Chef, helming the kitchen I was told that Zaytinya has been quite busy recently and sure enough the place was full both inside and out throughout most of my 75 minute meal.Energetic but not loud I found the seats to be well spaced, the servers quite educated, and the music authentic to the restaurant’s concept without being obtrusive.Multi-layered much like Jaleo the room’s blue and white décor and lighting provided by floor to ceiling windows added to its Eastern Mediterranean feel.
Browsing the menu and gauging my hunger I opted to order a couple courses at a time – most pre-determined from ogling the online menu but one dictated by a choice made by one of the neighboring tables.With water filled my friendly server, a self admitted native of Turkey, dropped off the house signature airy pillows of house-made pita and a small bowl of Greek olive oil and a “Z” of pomegranate vinegar.Having considered a spread to go with the bread I quickly decided against that option on tasting the oil and vinegar – it was heavenly and on its own pushed me to consume two baskets of bread.
Beginning my proper courses was the pairing of Seasonal Mushrooms sautéed with dates and toasted almonds alongside Octopus Santorini with marinated onions, capers, yellow split pea puree.Beginning first with the Mushrooms – a mélange of five varieties sautéed in olive oil and pan fried to perfection, the earthy mushrooms were beautifully complemented by small sweet bits of dates while the crunchy almonds lent textural diversity and a degree of saltiness.Moving on to the Octopus, a “house favorite” according to my server, it truly was an exceptional dish and a must order.Featuring a large portion of poached-then-grilled octopus I loved the way in which the supple and sweet protein was complimented by pungent onions and salty capers while the vegetal yet sweet pea puree proved a competent balance for the char.
Delighted thus far I proceeded to order two more dishes – the Midyes fried mussels with walnut tarator sauce and the Crispy sweetbreads with orange, caper, and baby fennel.Coated with chickpea flour and flash fried I must say I liked the overall flavor of the mussels and the walnut sauce was quite unexpected in its sweetness – almost a walnut-butter with hints of lemon and garlic.Unfortunately for the mussels they were paired with something that made them almost forgettable – the best fried preparation of sweetbreads to grace my palate in some time.Meltingly smooth on the interior with a delicate yet crispy crust the unctuous offal mingled wonderfully with the sweet orange, spicy peppers, and salty capers while the whole dish was grounded nicely by the mellow (and unexpectedly fried) fennel.
While I certainly could have opted for more savories I changed my mind when the couple next to me received their dishes – a brunch item and dessert clearly deserved my attention.Arriving first along with a mellow and fig/cocoa accented coffee was Turkish Delight with walnut ice cream, yogurt mousse, honey gelee, orange-caramel sauce, caramelized pine nuts.Delight – yes it was.Featuring a crunchy layer of fried filo standing between scoops of gritty and nutty ice cream the dish was nicely enhanced by the sour and smooth mousse, sucrose sweet honey, and milky citrus sauce while cinnamon tinged pine nuts added a degree of spice and crunch beyond the filo.Thankfully offering Mezze portions of their desserts this dish was an absolute steal at $4.
Arriving just as I finished the Turkish Delight was the last dish of the meal – an option from the brunch menu and the best item of a meal containing nothing but great food.Entitled Tiganites or Greek Style pancakes with Greek Yogurt, Honey, and Cherrie the primary constituent of the dish was three impossibly light lemon accented pancakes with distinctive hints of olive oil.Resting beneath the pancakes was a creamy yogurt with hints of citrus and a small pile of warm poached Cherries and alongside was 2-3 tbsp of warmed lavender honey in a small dish.First tasting the pancakes solo and then topping them with the cherries and honey I can only say that these were the best textured pancakes I’ve had in well over a year and the flavors complimented one another exquisitely.
When it was all said and done my brunch at Zaytinya with tax and tip cost nearly $60 but it was worth every cent – there are just certain situations where you get what you pay for.While I wish I could say that all of my Andres’ experiences in DC were as good as Zaytinya they simply were not…what I can say, however, is that I wouldn’t hesitate to return – the room, the location, the service, and especially the food are splendid.
With my family meeting up with me for a long week celebrating birthdays, completion of residency, and other happy things our plans were ambitious and enviable to many gourmands…the plans were also made far in advance – they had to be given the difficulty in obtaining some of the reservations.Arriving before my family I asked a friend in the area where a local would recommend for an early breakfast on a Saturday and the immediate response was “Market Lunch – get the Blue Bucks!”Fair enough I thought, I love pancakes.
Hopping on the metro shortly after disembarking from my early morning flight I found myself at the Eastern Market by 9:05am and as I was warned I found a line – a line that took only 5 minutes less time than my flight from CMH to DCA.Waiting in the line I read the story of the counter’s history and re-establishment after a fire, I talked a couple of friendly college-age (and clearly hung over) folks from Georgetown, and I dealt with the potent smell of raw fish wafting from the Market Seafood Stand across the way – I also read the Soup-Nazi-esque rules regarding payment, seating, and ordering.
Finally arriving at the front of the line I was greeted by a hurried young lady who shouted out “ONE CRABCAKE AND ONE BLUEBUCKS” as I placed my order.Handing her the cash I stepped to the size and waiting approximately 5 minutes before my food was plated, placed on a red tray, and topped with butter before being handed to me with a “have a nice day.”Growing ever weary of the fishy smell I filled two small carryout containers with syrup and hot sauce and made my way to the outdoor seating area to enjoy my $15 breakfast.
Beginning first with the Crab cake, first plain and then with some crystal hot sauce and a sprits of lemon, it was a solid example.Moderate in size and perfectly crisp the cake itself featured plenty of lump crab and a bit of back-fin bound by a creamy breading and hints of old bay seasoning – slightly spicy, mostly sweet, entirely worth the price.
Moving next to the Blue Bucks – three thin buckwheat pancakes packed with fresh whole blueberries – I expected they must be good as I’m rather certain every single patron ordered a plate.Taking my first bite I will admit the pancakes were well prepared with golden brown exterior, fluffy interior, and a nice mouth feel.Unfortunately, while ample notes of buckwheat and buttermilk were notable the blueberries were largely underwhelming, most likely due to the season and the generic syrup did nothing but add sweetness.
While the rest of the Eastern Market was a nice (albeit quick) browse I was mostly impressed by the outdoor weekend market as opposed to the daily indoor selections and unless I lived in the area I wouldn’t put the market high on my list of things to see and do in DC.A decent breakfast – sure.A breakfast worth an hour wait – not at all.More focus on crowd flow, air flow, and using a quality maple syrup might help, but I’d still not rush back.
In planning our dinner before the finals of the Frozen Four I looked high and low, steak and seafood, Italian and Chinese – in the end I went with an unlikely choice because I felt obligated to give Michael Symon a second chance.With the rave reviews continually surrounding Lola I figured my experience at Lola could have been an aberration – the bad service, the miniscule portions, the uncomfortable chairs – I mean, the food was good, right?Having heard nothing but good things about Roast despite Symon’s growing empire I booked reservations for three during the earliest dinner slot on a Saturday in order to make it to the Game 1/2 mile away at Ford Field by puck-drop.Arriving and finding the $5 bargain valet we quickly made our way into the hotel-lobby and were led seamlessly to the hostess stand at Roast.Dressed casually (we, and many others were going to a hockey game) we were greeted pleasantly and led to a great table in the main dining room – surprisingly the place was packed despite the early hour.
Taking out seats and presented with the heavy (really, they’re made of copper) menus we were left to review while our waters were filled by the prompt and courteous ancillary staff.Browsing around the room I was quite taken by the large windows, white tablecloths, and modern décor – even the bar was very stylish and attractive.Tables wonderfully spaced across the long room I found the noise level at Roast “just right” – energetic but not too loud, refined yet casual.
A short time passed before we were greeted by a server – a tall man with short red hair who asked if we’d had “time to look at the wine list.”Stating we weren’t wine drinkers he said “oh, well….okay then” and then went on to describe the roast beast (suckling pig) and lamb special before excusing himself with “one of my associates will be over to help you in a few moments.”Attempting to ask what charcuterie was present on the board he recited it in a flippant manner as walking away.Somewhat distressed that this would be another Symon service debacle we waited for his “associate.”
Arriving after only a minute the successor to our arrogant first encounter was an extremely pleasant young lady named Laura who would care for us for the rest of the evening.Providing accurate descriptions and detail, amusing anecdotes and great recommendations throughout the meal I will note that from the moment she took over the service was vastly superior to that at Lola and exactly what I expect from a contemporary restaurant like Roast.(As a side-note, throughout our meal we watched the red haired man schmooze other well-dressed, wine ordering tables and there is no doubt he was the type of server I’d prefer not have and I was glad he’d dismissed us as unworthy of his time – watching him re-explain the concept of charcuterie to a table who asked “why would anyone pay $12 each for lunchmeat” was top notch.)
/
With orders placed our meal began with a pair of breads and an excellent sweetened whipped butter from the kitchen.While I personally preferred the hearty and nutty Cracked Wheat bread both my aunt and mother fancied the white bread which was slightly sweet with an excellent crumb and crunchy crust.Ordering heavier fare and learning a lesson from the night prior at Greenhouse Tavern I used the bread mostly for mopping up sauces while my mother, not typically one to over consume bread, ate far too much.
Although I was disappointed that the sweetbreads listed on the online menu was not available on the evening’s menu, a suitable substitute was easily found on the evening’s pork heavy menu – the Crispy Fresh Bacon with Haloumi, Pickled Tomato, Almond.Featuring pork belly fried till crispy on both sides but still melting soft inside the savory protein was very well complimented by sour pickled tomatoes and crispy almonds while the authentically sourced Haloumi (apparently from Detroit’s Greektown) was only slightly browned and added a degree of creaminess.Not expecting the family to enjoy this I was surprised when both mom and aunt requested a taste – and then another – stating it was “delicious.”
Opting against the side dishes as ordered by my companions I instead selected a salad to accompany my main course – an excellent choice and amongst the best salads I’ve ever had.Entitled Warm Spinach Salad with Fried Egg, Mushrooms, Bacon, Crispy Pig Ear, Balsamic the dish featured a lightly warmed (but not wilted) base of spinach absolutely saturated in a sweet fig balsamic.Topping the dish were pan seared and woodsy mushrooms, a sunny-side farm egg, chopped bacon, and small bits of intense smoky pigs ear.Certainly heavier than the average salad given the protein and fat content this dish was and is a must order.
Arriving shortly after the bacon and the salad, a mere 50 minutes after we were seated (they were aware that we had plans after dinner) were our main courses and sides – each presented nicely by Laura and her team.For my aunt the selection was a Filet Mignon, well done as per her liking.Served in a rather austere manner with only a drizzle of olive oil she stated it was great – I did not taste it.As a side with her steak my aunt selected the macaroni and cheese – a combination of goat cheese, brie, and heavy cream with subtle notes of rosemary and parsley over well prepared al dente pasta topped with crispy buttered bread crumbs.An ample portion, certainly warranting the $7 price tag, and a great paring to her steak though not quite as wowing as the less refined version at Slow’s down the road.
For my mother’s dinner selection the choice for the evening was chicken – in this case Pan Roasted Chicken with Ramps, Morels, Tarragon Pan Sauce.Featuring early season ramps and morels the kitchen clearly knew what they were doing in the preparation of this dish as the smooth pungency of the ramps balanced well with the heavy earth tones of the morels.Not a fan of tarragon in general I found its use in the dish quite restrained and the overall potency of the pan sauce was tempered by sweet vegetables – carrots, peas, a slice of sweet potato.Not to be outdone the chicken was a fine example – crispy skin, succulent meat, not quite as good as that at Forest Grill, but excellent just the same.
Ordered along with her Chicken my mother went with a side she frequents at restaurants in recent memory – the polenta.Recalling the miraculously creamy polenta at Symon’s Lola (served in a Shrimp n’ Grits combo at that location) I was excited when I saw this on the menu and it certainly lived up to my memory.Made with mascarpone, cream, and I believe a touch of thyme the amply portioned side was toothsome without being heavy, creamy but slightly sweet, smooth like a pudding but with more body – think creamed corn meets a fine risotto.
For my entrée the choice was difficult – the roast beast of the day was a hearty sounding suckling pig – but the Duck was calling my name.After much indecision I eventually decided on the duck because my other 3 dishes contained pork – I don’t know what the pig tasted like but I can definitely attest to the quality of the Duck Leg Ragu with Pappardelle, Parmesean, and Caramelized Vegetables.With a thick ragu topping flawless al dente hand-torn pasta as thin and transparent as latex I fell in love with this dish on first bite and only came to appreciate it more with subsequent tastes.Hefty and aromatic duck – stewed until the point of nearly falling apart was complimented nicely with the tastes and textures of peas, carrots, peppers, and morels while the flavors were only heightened by sharp notes of shaved parmesean.Filling but worthy of every bite this pasta was “rustic” at its best.
After the surplus of bread, polenta, and chicken my mother tapped out – she actually had no room for dessert…my aunt was full and myself – finishing mom’s polenta and aunt’s Mac – I could have been persuaded to skip dessert, especially after the lackluster tastes at Lola – I could have been persuaded until I saw the menu.Making a selection without hesitation my aunt was also wowed by one of the nightly presentations and prevented me from looking like more of a glutton than was obvious by ordering a dessert herself.
Waiting approximately 20 minutes before our desserts arrived my aunt opted for her standard – Crème Brulee – in this case a Peanut Butter Chocolate version that tasted like a creamy and crunchy (and substantially portioned) refined Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup.For myself, continuing the porky trend for the evening (save my duck – drat, should’ve got the suckling pig) my dessert selection was the Bacon Doughnut Sundae with Maple Bacon Ice Cream and Cherry Bourbon Sauce.Anchored by a steaming hot cinnamon doughnut similar to those at Zingerman’s in taste and texture the pastry was subsequently topped with a savory maple laced ice cream, chunks of crunchy bacon, and a drizzle of boozy cherry reduction.Delectable, ample, multi-textured and profoundly nuanced this was a standout dessert, both for restaurant itself and on the grand scale of “wow” desserts I’ve tasted anywhere.
When the meal was complete we settled the bill, just over $40 per person with tax and tip, and made our way to the valet stop after a fond farewell from Laura and the receptionist.Collecting our car rapidly we navigated the short half mile to Ford Field and watched the BC Golden Eagles win the NCAA Championship in a blowout.Having become a bit of an NHL Snob in recent years I was pleased to find pleasure in the college game again – but not nearly as pleased as I was to have given Symon a second chance, it was a great choice.
Staying with my mother in Toledo Saturday morning entailed a Saturday morning experience from my youth – a drive across town to Uncle John’s Pancake House for Breakfast.While my tastes in food and dining have clearly expanded past my early days in Toledo there is one thing that holds true – I still love breakfasts that could easily feign as dessert and Uncle John’s offers just that.Undergoing a substantial upgrade both inside and out since my childhood days enjoying their Chocolate Pancakes we arrived to a bright and inviting house of kitsch – darker and older than Zingerman’s Roadhouse, but similar in Midwestern charm.
Making our way into the restaurant just after 9am the seats were approximately 3/4 full – there would be a line by the time we left.Approaching the pleasant young hostess we requested a table for three and were quickly led to a cozy four-top in the back.Greeted almost immediately by a young server-in-training we were presented with menus and a list of “Daily specials” – something the restaurant certainly didn’t serve on my previous visits.Coffee for myself and mom, tea for aunt and we were left to browse the myriad options.
Returning after approximately 10 minutes (and refilling both my water and coffee on cue then and throughout the meal) with her supervisor, an elderly lady with a significant pack/year history our orders were taken and we were left to chat.Located near the University of Toledo campus the mixture of patrons at Uncle John’s was just as I remembered – older folks in flannel, college kids in pajamas, and some pretty rockin’ mullets.The scenery, including a large sculling boat and plenty of UT paraphernalia intermingled with pictures of old Toledo and signage – very diner, but not dumpy as it once was.
Enjoying our coffee and checked in on frequently our plates arrived after only 20 minutes despite the every growing crowd.Opting against the Chocolate Pancakes for the first time and instead choosing one of the daily specials I was delivered a plate entitled Peaches and Bananas’ Foster French Toast.Featuring soaked and pan seared sourdough with ample cinnamon and vanilla notes the dish was topped with fresh sliced peaches, ripe bananas, and chopped pecans in a hot cinnamon glaze.At $6 this was the most expensive sweet on the breakfast menu, largely due to the fresh fruits, but the portion size was quite ample.Certainly southern in feel I quite liked the blend of peaches and bananas with the sweet glaze, unfortunately while the pecans added texture the bread was somewhat mushy and lacking body.Delicious yes, textural no – comfy diner food.
For my mother her option was the Michigan Cherry Crepes with Sauteed Cherries, Whipped Cream, and Sliced Almonds.Featuring surprisingly light and fluffy crepes wrapped around fresh and hot cherries and topped with a dousing of whipped cream I liked this dish and its nuance moreso than my selection – it was even better with the addition of some of the blueberry syrup on the table rack.Accompanying my mother’s cakes was an enormous plate of well cooked Canadian Bacon.Having dined mostly in high end restaurants in recent memory the Oscar Meyer slices were average and once again gave me a better appreciation for artisan meats and quality farms.
My aunt, not a fan of syrup, opted for the bargain $2.99 Swedish pancakes.Featuring three ultra thin Egg Pancakes Served with Lingonberries and whipped butter this dish was relatively boring to me – it was buttery and the Lingonberries good, but in my opinion it tasted a lot better with something from the syrup sampler (maple, butter pecan, strawberry, and blueberry.)
Settling the incredibly modest tab and thanking our server team with a substantial tip I finished another cup of coffee before we made our way to the front – I’m pretty sure the table was turned before we made it to the door.Good food, great prices, and a comfy setting has kept Uncle John’s at the front of the Toledo breakfast scene since I was a lad and it is great to see that, if anything, the economic downturn has led to an even better experience.If Uncle John’s were in Columbus it would be the best breakfast in town – if it were in a major metropolitan area I gather it would still have a substantial fan base – and the prices would be higher with the lines longer.
After a long morning and afternoon of browsing the Toledo Museum of Art we next made our way north towards Detroit.With dinner plans before the NCAA Men’s Hockey Championship still 4 hours away we opted to stop into Mexicantown for a bite at the much celebrated Mexicantown Panaderia.Having had fantastic Mexican pastries in San Francisco and awful versions in Chicago I wasn’t sure what to expect.
Entering the large shop the first thing I noticed was that unlike the previous bakeries this was a fully functional grocery store and that they also served some composed savories.With an ample selection of sweets, groceries, and breads – none written in English – we wandered about for a bit before reconvening to discuss.Clearly meant to cater to the locals and not us tourists the servers were not very helpful – whether they didn’t speak the English or simply chose not to I cannot be sure, but regardless the decisions were all ours to make.
Watching a number of patrons pick up a large round of bread still warm from the oven I opted for one of those, a “Bolillo” according to the sign.Difficult to describe, my best assessment of this bread is that it is something akin to a hamburger bun on the exterior with an airy and fluffy interior somewhat akin to pain au lait – it was delicious and I understand why everyone was buying one.Other options from the bakery case included a Neapolitan polvorones – a chocolate/strawberry/vanilla cornmeal cookie with a great crumb that would have gone perfectly with milk, and an Apple Empanada that I originally figured was pumpkin but pleasantly found out was a compote of apple, cinnamon, nutmeg, and butter.
Selected from the chilled case by my mother and aunt were a boozy Chocolate and raspberry Roll and a pseudo-Napoleon comprised of alternating layers of cream and a crispy shell akin to phyllo dough.While the Napoleon was quite good and the cream balanced well with the crispy layers, the Chocolate roll was saturated with alcohol at the base and quite dry at the apex – the cocoa accented cream was good, the cake was dull.Not as good as the pastries at the Panaderia in San Francisco’s Barrio but vastly superior to those in Chicago I only wish the servers could have been more helpful – perhaps that is why my selections in San Francisco fared so well.
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
+(1).JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
+with+Pasamont%C3%A9s+farmhouse+Manchego.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
+Bread+stick,+orange+peel.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
I/AAAAAAAAFwQ/n1n4s7MBYMM/s1600/121+-+Macaroni+and+Cheese+with+Virginia+Country+Ham+and+Shaved+Black+Summer+Truffle.JPG">.JPG)
.JPG)
,+Walnuts,+Apricots,+Honey+(1).JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
+(2).JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
