Endo Edibles

May 14, 2015
7:52 PM
by: Uhockey

HUSK, Nashville TN

Husk

Benne Seed Rolls with Butter

HUSK Charcuterie Plate, Dijonnaise, Cheddar Biscuits, Pickled Green Tomatoes – Fried Pork Rillette, Cotechino Sausage, Coppa, Pancetta di Testa, Fennel Salami, Ham Hock Terrine with Coffee and Sorghum

Carolina Rice Griddle Cakes (c.1875) with HUSK Pimento Cheese, Chipped Beef

Cheerwine Glazed Belly Ham, Soft Rolls, Pickled Onion and Cucumber, Smoked Duke’s

Grilled FL Asparagus, Potato, Egg, Bottarga, Crispy Pig Ear

Pit Roasted Wedge Oak Farm Chicken, Lightly Fermented Turnip, Mustard Jus

Hot Water Cornbread, Sliced Cucumbers and Raw Onion, for the Table

Bear Creek Farm Beef, Barbecued Cauliflower, Brassicas, Sauce Chausser, Szechuan Peppercorn

NC Catfish, Green Garlic Dressing, Smoked Potatoes, Nettles, Toasted Buckwheat Groats

O&S Chocolate Pie – Peanut Butter Ice Cream, Brown Butter Caramel

White Chocolate Parfait – Florida Strawberries, Buckwheat Streusel, Sorrel

Double Chocolate Cake – Hickory Ice Cream, Toasted Marshmallow, Graham Cracker

Floored by McCrady’s, but a bit less enthusiastic about a meal at HUSK in Charleston, it was with two friends that I decided to dine at Sean Brock’s second ‘homage to southern ingredients,’ and once again finding the restaurant housed in a renovated historic home the experience was unsurprisingly not dissimilar, the friendly service and lively setting bolstered by an ever evolving menus where high prices and small portions spoke to the quality of the sourcing, if not the creativity utilized in the kitchen.

Undeniably a beautiful space, the two-story home built into a hill with bar downstairs and open kitchen at ground level, it was in passing by several tables and room of aging meats that I found my friends seated on high stools and finishing their cocktails it was back upstairs we wandered, a tidy fourtop just left of the hostess stand our seat for the next 140 minutes during which the din of the dining room occasionally reached unexpected peaks while creaky floors and high ceilings acting to amplify the sound.

Quickly offered water along with a folded bill of fare that had changed only slightly from what was offered the night prior it was with great indecisions that options were weighed, a trio of buttery rolls soon joined by a stump of cured meats, pickles, and fluffy cheddar biscuits from which the fried rillettes and smoky cotechino particularly shined, though in reality not a single uninspired bite was to be found.

Continuing a trend of strong starters, round two featured stellar belly bacon atop soft rolls that would make almost any upscale bao hang its head in shame and although neither of my Southern dwelling pals appreciated the Pimento Cheese with rice cakes as much as I did suffice it to say HUSK’s “caviar of the South” is about as sharp as it gets, the asparagus in bright green broth proving a bit less bold than would be expected in the presence of pigs ears and bottarga, though certainly not lacking for vegetal flavors in any conceivable way.

At this point feeling confident that the combination of old friends and good food would make this visit to HUSK more memorable than the last it was unfortunately in entrees that the meal fell from grace, the meaty catfish recommended by our server a lone standout amidst bitter nettles and nutty groats while the sauce Chausser and peppercorns absolutely buried the beef, an overcooked breast of chicken only propped up by a bed of stewed dark meat hidden beneath a blanket of turnips lightly tinged in brine.

Entirely unamused by ‘hot water’ cornbread that likened a wet sponge both in texture as well as taste it was with hope for a reprieve that sweets were selected, and although the lauded Grit Pudding is apparently only available at lunch it was with good fortune that all three desserts proved as delicious as those found in South Carolina, the Chocolate Chess beneath peanut butter and caramel every bit as decadent as its ingredients would suggest while a square parfait was silk amidst strawberries and sorrel granita, the chocolate cake topped with smoky ice cream and toasted meringue serving up the flavor of S’mores without the campfire and mosquitoes, just the way I’ve always wished it could be.

Home

Posted in Bread Basket, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, HUSK, Ice Cream, Nashville, Pork, Tennessee, Vacation

May 14, 2015
3:30 PM
by: Uhockey

The Farm House, Nashville TN

The Farm House

Coffee Cured Duck, Lamb Rillette, Bresaola, Beef Jelly, Blue Cheese Crumble, Pickled Green Strawberries, Pickled Mustard Seeds, Biscuit

Pimento Cheese Beignet with Harissa and Onion Ash

Baby Iceberg, Chow Chow, Boiled Peanuts, Corn Nuts, Chorizo Ranch

Strawberry & Beets, Watercress, Rhubarb, Almond

2x potato, cheese, bacon, onion, truffle, soured cream

Cornbread, Steen’s butter

Pork Belly Poptart, jam, walnut, lemon

Coconut Cake – White Chocolate Crunch, Coconut Sorbet, Meringue

Baked Alaska – Ricotta Ice Cream, Chocolate, Meringue, Caramel Sauce

Seemingly taking notes from Sean Brock in presenting “reimagined farm-fresh Southern classics…in a hip space,” The Farm House seemed an inspired place to grab a few bites with family before meeting friends for dinner at Husk, and although Tennessee native Trey Cioccia may not have garnered the accolades of his South Carolina based competition the cuisine that rolled out of the kitchen during our 90-minute meal was not only more interesting, but undeniably more delicious than anything experienced at 37 Rutledge Street later that night.

Promoting a list of local purveyors for everything from meats and produce to brews and décor while the soundtrack trends mid-90s Pacific Northwest rather than “down-South” the menu at The Farmhouse is one of daily changes and with entrees ignored in place of several small plates this method of ordering proved fortuitous as generous portions were found at prices far less outlandish than other local upscale locales despite everything from charcuterie to ice creams being made in house.

Starting with the aforementioned cured meats, along with two buttermilk biscuits served piping hot from the oven, one would be hard pressed to name a flavor more dynamic than that of the coffee-cured duck while both the gamey rillette and dried beef were also quite pleasant – a lone ‘oddity’ found in gelatinous beef jelly with the sapor of bone marrow that admittedly did not go over like a lead balloon.

Requesting items be expedited as they were readied from the kitchen, largely on account of time, it was merely fifteen minutes before an opening trio arrived and with both salads prone to wow by both texture and taste it was unsurprisingly the molten pimento cheese beignets that provided the most dynamic early bites, a pocket of buttery brioche and ‘caviar of the south’ made all the more impactful through the addition of pepper paste and ash.

Opting next for three heavier plates, dessert soon joining the mix as a large party had slightly set back the savory half of the kitchen, both the signature pork-belly ‘poptart’ and texturally compelling ‘2x’ potato were whimsical yet elegant as rich flavors of swine and cheese were reined in by acid and earthy aromatics, the steamy cast-iron cornbread topped in creamy cow’s butter competing bite-for-bite for top billing while sweets showed even better – a tiny baked Alaska bruleed in the kitchen proving toasty and smooth atop a thick chocolate base while a sphere of soft coconut cake perched atop a pile of sorbet was as beautiful as it was delicious, the chocolate crumbs and spiky ring of meringue lending just enough sweetness to make more subtle flavors really come forth.

http://thefarmhousetn.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Nashville, Pork, Tennessee, The Farm House, Truffle, Vacation

May 14, 2015
1:16 PM
by: Uhockey

Jack’s Bar-B-Que, Nashville TN

Jack’s BBQ

Combo Plate – Brisket, Shoulder, St. Louis Style Ribs, Creamed Corn, Mac n’ Cheese

Cornbread

Chocolate Chess Pie

Chess Pie

Exceedingly unimpressed with Barista Parlor, but with more than an hour to kill before the conference resumed, it was to Broadway that I turned and with reviews of Jack’s BBQ ranging from ‘tourist trap’ to ‘Best BBQ in Nashville” I decided to take a chance, the answer found somewhere in between as not only the cuisine but the experience was worthwhile, if not particularly worth writing home about.

A staple of Nashville’s entertainment alley long before the city’s recent wave of growth, and since spawning additional locations where waiting is rarely an issue, it was to a short line that I entered the three-story property and quickly entering the queue it was with only a few seconds to decide that I approached the wordless server, a combo plate quickly slapped together and handed to me on a tray with cornbread – two pieces of pie added en route to the cashiers who did little more than collect $20 before sending me off to find a table.

Opting to eschew upstairs seating and instead occupying a teensy two-top near the front door it was amidst a décor of sports, pork, and country regalia that I partook in my ‘cue and immediately finding the wet “St. Louis Style” ribs meager in meat and overly sugared a transition to the brisket and shoulder proved far more competent, both versions juicy and moist with a good bit of smoke complimented by light sauce, while both creamed corn and macaroni n’ cheese were on par with the environs, the former none too sweet and far more creamy than that from a can.

Moving to desserts, but remiss to not mention slabs of toothsome cornbread that reminded me of the savory stuff down in North Carolina, it was admittedly a bit of a surprise when I popped open clamshells to realize I’d selected two versions of Chess rather than what looked to be Pecan, but never one to quibble a good piece of pie one would be hard pressed to name a better slice of either in the city of Nashville, the vinegar notes peaking through the sugar at all the right times in the traditional version while the chocolate was far more rich despite a mouthfeel closer to that of pudding.

http://jacksbarbque.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Jack's Bar-B-Que, Jack's BBQ, Nashville, Pork, Tennessee, Vacation

May 14, 2015
9:01 AM
by: Uhockey

Barista Parlor, Nashville TN

Barista Parlor

Cold Brew from Sightglass

Cinnamon Sugar Donut / Strawberry Donut

Almond Buttercream Macaron

PB Chocolate with Caramel Pretzel Drizzle Pop’s tart

Biscuit

Pop’s Strawberry Waffle – Strawberries, Cream Cheese Stuffing, Powdered Sugar

Considered by some to be the best coffee shop in the city, but a bit disappointing to me as they opt to outsource their beans to purveyors such as Stumptown, Four Barrel, Sightglass, and Intelligentsia instead of roasting in-house like nearby Crema, it was for the first part of a two-part lunch that I stopped by Barista Parlor and as much as the sprawling space inhabited by Nashville’s hip and trendy is remarkable in its open layout little of what was experienced within its confines was otherwise memorable, a buttery scratch-made biscuit with impressive rise the lone exception to the rule.

Featuring all sorts of coffee apparatus, along with beans by the bag and an area equipped with a roaster that makes me wonder exactly what its purpose is, if not to roast, it was on approaching the counter that a hirsuit young man greeted me and opting for four pastries, a coldbrew, and two kitchen-prepped items a long wait while browsing WiFi would ensue – the baked donuts proving doughy at best beneath their repective toppings while the Macaron was fairly decent with a crisp break and creamy filling, the “Pop’s Tart” a total dud reminiscent of Toaster Strudel without warmth, flakiness, or much caramel flavor at all.

Sipping the coffee while awaiting my entrée, suffice it to say that the aforementioned biscuit was without a doubt the only item worth waiting for because as much the quality fluffy yet crisp waffle was appreciated the meager sidecar of strawberry compote was absolutely no match for the heavy slathering of cream cheese that was so sour I actually questioned whether it had spoiled, the majority of it scraped off and discarded along with half of the pop-tart and any desire to recommend the space, let alone to return.

https://www.facebook.com/BaristaParlor/

Posted in Barista Parlor, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Macaroon, Nashville, Tennessee, Vacation, Waffles

May 14, 2015
7:26 AM
by: Uhockey

Puckett’s Grocery and Restaurant, Nashville TN

Puckett’s Grocery and Restaurant

Sausage Biscuit, Bacon Egg and Cheese Biscuit, Chicken Biscuit

The “King’s” French Toast – Egg Dipped and Pan Fried Brioche, Bananas, and Peanut Butter topped with Powdered Sugar and Served with Syrup and Fruit

Southern Stack – Slow-smoked pulled pork over sweet potato pancakes and fried apples, topped with a fried egg, and served with a side of our home fries

Maple Pecan Pie

Deep Fried Brownie Sundae – Brownie batter mixed with triple treat cookie dough, battered and fired, topped with vanilla bean ice cream and candied bacon

Andy’s Triple Treat Cookie – chocolate, peanut butter, & butterscotch chips mixed with pecans and topped with Vanilla Ice Cream

With the conference set to begin at 8am it was an early alarm followed by a long run, shower, and quick drive that saw us arrive at Puckett’s mere moments after doors were unlocked, and opting for excessively priced parking next door as a matter of convenience it was almost immediately on entering that we were seated – the service given every chance in the world to be timely given the absolute lack of patrons but excessively delayed as our waitress stood sipping her Starbucks and kibitzing with the kitchen.

Eventually acknowledged, and placing an order in an expedited manner after being informed that desserts are not offered until 11:00, it was perhaps twenty minutes of waiting that followed before plates were delivered and with the space approximately 1/4 full by that time the noise level remained relatively tame, a later return around noon showing the scene to be entirely different as a 1-hour wait for a two-top was quoted over sounds that likely challenged a rock concert in decibels.

Soon receiving our plates, though water refills were decidedly hard to come by, it should seem obvious that Puckett’s targets the tourist population, but at the same time doing things right with regard to sourcing and preparing most items in house the cuisine itself was actually quite competent – the French Toast presenting a lone disappointment as it was still somewhat doughy in the center with too little topping while the biscuits fluffy and golden surrounding quality proteins, the sweet potato pancake beneath a pile of pulled pork and a fried egg undoubtedly the most interesting of the options with great flavor to the smoked shoulder that makes me wonder if other meats fare as well.

Having previously mentioned the lack of sweets available at breakfast, it was only later that I returned solo to sample a few of Puckett’s signature skillets, and bellying up to a bar during lunch to find service surprisingly even less attentive than what was offered earlier it was with good fortune that the both the award winning deep fried brownie and Triple Treat cookie were every bit worth the annoyance and accolades, the former a chewy bit of decadence wrapped in crunchy cookie dough beneath ice cream and candied bacon while the later arrived just browned at the edges with a soft set center chockablock full of melting morsels equally crowned with ice cream and caramel, the piece of Maple Pecan Pie taken to go also quite pleasant but certainly not reaching the high standard set by other versions in the city, let alone the items served just short of molten noted above.

https://www.puckettsgrocery.com/nashville/

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Nashville, Pancakes, Pork, Puckett’s Grocery, Puckett’s Grocery and Restaurant, Puckett’s Restaurant, Tennessee, Vacation

May 13, 2015
7:01 PM
by: Uhockey

The 404 Kitchen, Nashville TN

The 404 Kitchen

Flight 404 – Martin Miller’s gin, Crème de Violette, Luxardo, lemon

Pig Plate – Woodlands back bacon, coppa di testa, 14 month Benton’s, goldrush apple butter, whiskey apple butter, sourdough

Wedge Oak Farm Duck Egg – wild mushrooms, Anson Mills farro, egg yolk, herbs

Fava Beans – rock shrimp, orange, honey, pecorino

Glendale Farm Chicken – Anson Mills dirty porridge, lacinato kale, button mushrooms

Ponce Inlet Bay Scallops – cauliflower, brown butter, paddlefish caviar, white truffle

Anson Mills Skillet Cornbread – Kentucky bourbon barrel sorghum butter

Lemon Curd – Medjool dates, cashew, Italian meringue

Olive & Sinclair Chocolate Budino – almond, port, cherries, crisps

Saffron Ice Cream – strawberries, shortcake, Marcona almonds

Small in size, and difficult to locate in an area currently high in construction, Matt Bolus’ The 404 Kitchen was the finishing piece to a large puzzle of dinner decisions in Nashville and featuring more ‘farm to table’ cooking inside of what was once a shipping container the cuisine proved every bit as good as highly praised spots like Josephine, Husk, and City House while the setting and service were perhaps even better – the small size and tongue-in-cheek humor providing an excellent experience spread over the course of two hours.

Described as ‘uncomplicated’ by the chef, with a menu that varies almost day-to-day, our arrival at The 404 Kitchen found a four-top ready in waiting despite a late arrival due to difficulties finding the space around orange barrels and joking about how much the city had changed in the last 12 months, not to mention the dozen years past since our last visit, it was almost an immediate connection with the staff that was established – the conversation free-flowing and full of recommendations not only for food and drink, but things to see and do in the area.

Eventually deciding on a four-course order to begin with a plate of locally sourced charcuterie paired to housemade preserves and warm sourdough brought in from a local baker it was much to our surprise just how enjoyable the whisky apple butter was alongside the more briny bites of pork and slathering the bread thick with Goldrush Apple compote while sipping a mighty fine spin on the classic Aviation it was with the restaurant quickly filling to capacity that appetizers arrived, the duck egg and faro dish presenting an earthy aromatic bowl of creamy porridge while the fava bean soup was the very definition of vibrant – a fresh seasonal expression that saw every ingredient utilized to the utmost potential for texture, flavor, and balance.

Progressing to entrees, and taking into account the amount of eating already done that day, it was in two plates that we invested along with a side of skillet cornbread that easily proved to be the best in the city when soaked in smoky-sweet butter, and although the “jellybeans of the sea” scallops were indeed quite sweet amidst their rich accoutrements both the small size and use of truffle oil were offputting considering the $32 pricetag, a far better appropriation of funds invested in the pan roasted bird atop liver-rich porridge balanced out by the tender mushrooms and kale.

Inspired by dessert descriptions, at least enough to order one of each, it was once again here that Tennessee surprised my generally citrus-averse palate, for as good as both the thick port-infused chocolate pudding and innovative take on strawberry shortcake were neither even came close to the mason jar parfait of creamy lemon curd decorated by meringue with roughly chopped dates and cashews, a dish that in many ways supported the Chef’s vision of simplicity while still presenting as quite sophisticated, much like the experience as a whole.

http://the404nashville.com/kitchen/

Posted in 404 Kitchen, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Nashville, Pork, Tennessee, The 404 Kitchen, Truffle, Vacation

May 13, 2015
1:04 PM
by: Uhockey

Monell’s Restaurant, Nashville TN

Monell’s Restaurant

Biscuits, Cornbread, Rolls

Port Poached Pears

Cinnamon Apples

Coleslaw

Pasta Salad

Corn Pudding

Green Beans

Country Gravy

Mashed Potatoes

Mac n’ Cheese

Sage Stuffing

Baked Chicken

Fried Pork Chop

Pan Fried Chicken

Banana Pudding

Serving Nashville residents and tourists the best in home cooked Southern cuisine for over thirty years, and having now spawned two other locations, it was almost a requirement of a trip to the Tennessee capitol to visit Monell’s, and opting to visit the original location just after 1:00pm on a Tuesday our party of three found the oft-packed 19th century building with just four seats available, a prompt seating seeing food placed before us no less than 60-seconds later with plate after plate soon to follow.

Originally opened as a sort of boarding house, the Monell family serving downhome cooking to persons staying in the residence, the space has since been converted to a one-price all you can eat experience open for lunch and dinner plus weekend brunch, and with some parties opting for a made-to-order meat-and-three option the true ‘experience’ is most certainly found at a communal table with shared plates passed amongst new friends and travelers, the food every bit as good or better than rumors have it with a pricepoint that really cannot be beat.

Beginning first with several passed sides, though some tables may begin with breads or proteins depending on what the kitchen has most recently prepared fresh, it was with attention to the fact that much more was to come that small portions of items such as green beans, mashed potatoes, stuffing, and pasta salad were sampled and first deciding to go all-in on cinnamon apples followed by corn pudding both items proved to be absolutely delightful, the biscuits and country gravy also quite impressive while cornbread proved just a bit drier than one would hope, a situation augmented admirably by butter and honey, or poached pears that are also available by the jar to take home.

Moving on, much like the sides Monell’s offers a regularly changing list of entrees and joining ever-present fried chicken that features light batter and minimal grease overlying a lean bird that could have arguably used a bit more brine or seasoning was actually the baked bird that was the best protein available, a nice spice profile overlying skin almost as crisp as that of the fried version, the pork faring far less favorably and quite tough even when taken bite for bite with cinnamon apples, most of mine remaining on the plate to allow for a second helping of corn pudding, the lone dessert of banana pudding proving a competent, if not particularly compelling, iteration with a touch to much sog to the wafers.

http://monellstn.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Monell’s, Monell’s Restaurant, Monnell’s, Monnell’s Restaurant, Nashville, Pork, Tasting Menu, Tennessee, Vacation

May 13, 2015
11:11 AM
by: Uhockey

Pied Piper Eatery, Nashville TN

Pied Piper Eatery

Monty “Python” Cristo – Ham, Turkey, Cheese on Texas Toast, Hand Battered and Fried with Raspberry Sauce and Powdered Sugar

White Cheddar Mac n’ Cheese

I’m Goin’ to Graceland (half) – Peanut Butter, Banana, Honey on White Bread, Hand Battered and Deep Fried with Powdered Sugar, served with Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Sauce

Pecan Pie

Chess Pie

Cinnamon Sugar Bread Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream

Continuing on despite the recent passing of its owner, Becky Piper, Pied Piper Eatery was the third stop on Tuesday’s breakfast triathlon and with Led Zeppelin followed by The Who, Doors, and Stones quickly playing on entry as tables featuring all four bands plus severeal were found throughout the dining room I knew right away that we were in for an experience, the food in some ways an effect of the concept but quite creative and tasty just the same.

Greeted by a young woman with ‘old-timey’ mannerisms that seemed surprisingly natural considering her age and side-job fronting a local rock band it was a clever all-day menu both in names and compositions that we investigated, the eventual order entailing one entrée, one included side, and four desserts from which only the odd custard based Pecan Pie was less impressive than the descriptions implied.

For all intents and purposes a locals oriented rock n’ roll diner with a small prep kitchen tucked behind a white wall with more seating than I’ d imagine is usually necessary, it was with only three other parties present that our meal at Pied Piper took place and opting to have everything delivered at once as a matter of schedule it was to quite the smorgasbord that we were treated, the white macaroni and cheese surprisingly well made with plenty of sharp cheddar balanced by buttery notes atop soft, spiral pasta while the steamy square of bread pudding, proudly touted as being without raisins, was bold with cinnamon and sweetness beneath a melting ball of creamy vanilla ice cream.

Having already mentioned the pecan pie, it was the seemingly the exact same pie minus pecans that served as Pied Piper’s take on Chess and although far better here than with the nuts the flavor was still somewhat ‘off’ compared to others in the area, the far better investment being a pair of deep-fried specialties including the Presley inspired “I’m Goin’ to Graceland” with honey, bananas, and peanut butter and far too infrequently seen legitimate Monty Cristo, a hand battered stack of ham, turkey, and cheese on Texas toast given a quick bath in hot oil before being patted dry and paired with housemade raspberry puree for a taste both sweet and savory that by itself more than justifies a visit to Pied Piper…in this case, the concept most definitely secondary to the cuisine.

http://piedpipereatery.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Nashville, Pied Piper Eatery, Pork, Tennessee, Vacation

May 13, 2015
8:22 AM
by: Uhockey

Yeast, Nashville TN

Yeast

Blueberry Kolache

Cinnamon Roll

Cinnamon Chocolate Chip French Toast Casserole

Unapologetically targeting a Breakfast triple-header since later days would largely see my mornings absorbed by the conference for which I was in town, stop two on Tuesday was at East Nashville’s Yeast and known to be the local home of the Kolache I was pleased to find at least a half-dozen takes on the regionally celebrated interpretation of a Czech/Slovak specialty, the eventual order settling on a sticky blueberry circle that was still warm to touch with stewed blueberries sitting at the center of a yeasty, lightly sweet rim.

Featuring an open kitchen set amidst a small row of buildings housing several local businesses Yeast is without a doubt a mom n’ pop place with a reputation built largely on word of mouth, and with two young ladies providing top-notch service with a smile to a steady stream of traffic it was much to my delight that in addition to the Kolaches two of my other personal favorites were being offered that morning, the ‘casserole’ a substantial upgrade on any savory amalgam of meat and eggs instead featuring bread soaked in custard overnight with ample pockets of chocolate and a light bit of cinnamon that lingered on with each bite.

Already impressed, but happy to seek a recommendation from servers who seemed to really enjoy what they do, I was told by both ladies that although unauthentic the Cinnamon Roll made from the same dough as the Kolache was perhaps the small bakery’s best item and although the item was saved until later given our extensive eating agenda a gentle rewarming to melt the frosting showed the staff opinions to be true, the pillowy base formed into a gentle curl around butter and cinnamon with frosting that was of the more tangy variety, yet still sweet enough to let you know that what you’re eating is about as indulgent as it comes.

http://www.yeastnashville.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Nashville, Tennessee, Vacation, Yeast

May 13, 2015
7:44 AM
by: Uhockey

Sky Blue Café, Nashville TN

Sky Blue Café

Drew’s Brews Coffee

Croque Madame – Ham, Swiss, French Toast, Hollandaise, Sunny Side Egg

Brie French Toast – Drizzled with Honey

PB&J Stuffed French Toast Pancakes

Unamused by almost every aspect of Pancake Pantry on Monday it was a bit off the grid that breakfasts ventured the following day, and heading to trendy East Nashville where a small corner spot in a residential neighborhood houses Sky Blue Café the experience was a veritable one-eighty from all the hype, a down homey spot full of creativity with great coffee in endless quantity from a local vendor known simply as Drew’s Brews.

Certainly catering to the growing hipster and wannabe musician population inhabiting much of the area, Sky Blue Café is the sort of place where local artists decorate the walls while community events such as Cornhole tournaments are advertised alongside boardgames it was just seconds after seating that a young man who looked fresh-from-bed greeted us with stubble and an Iggy Pop T-Shirt, orders soon taken and delivered directly from the kitchen by a woman with a huge crown of braids who joked that we’d likely bitten off more than we could chew.

Dimly lit on the interior, but bathed with sunlight from a lovely day outdoors, it was with great gusto that we tucked in after a long morning run, and starting savory before moving onward to sweets the Americanized take on Croque Madame with French Toast and buttery Hollandaise was inauthentic yet excellent, the Tennessee ham particularly briny but well balanced by cheese, sauce, and egg.

Refilled with coffee for the umpteenth time, never once requiring a request, it was next the French Toast sandwich stuffed with Brie that caught our attention and although the cheese itself was expectedly mild the addition of honey brought out some of the more creamy notes, no such subtlety necessary or found in the French Toast Pancakes that literally saw two slices of eggy French Toast stuffed with peanut butter and jelly lodged between two pillowy buttermilk pancakes, a meta-food that from my perspective puts the Turducken to shame.

http://skybluecoffee.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Nashville, Pancakes, Pork, Sky Blue Café, Tennessee, Vacation

May 12, 2015
7:54 PM
by: Uhockey

Josephine, Nashville TN

Josephine

Pretzel Bread, House Mustard, Butter

Charred Snap Peas, Goat Cheese, Radish, Spring Herbs, Bread Crumbs, Honey Lavender

Bibb Lettuce, Bacon, Croutons, Radishes, Herb Buttermilk Dressing

Scrapple, Compressed Strawberries, Balsamic Vinegar

Mustard Dumpling, Pork, Mushrooms, Spring Herbs, Peas

Spring Pea Agnolotti, Candied Carrot Sauce

Risotto, Duck, Asparagus, Crimini Mushroom, Lemon

Housemade Pappardelle, Assorted Mushrooms, Pecorino

Chocolate and Salty Caramel Tart with Opal Basil, Orange Zest, Meyer Lemon, Chocolate Crunch

Considered to be one of Nashville’s most inspired kitchens it was somewhat unfortunate that a seat at Josephine’s newly launched 10-by-10 dinner could not be found during my stay, but taking the opportunity to instead dine with my mother and aunt it was just after 7:00pm that we were seated in the restaurant’s front left corner, the unforgiving chairs and pillowed banquets not exactly an ideal arrangement for a long meal, but better than being crowded around the excessively loud bar.

Admittedly far louder than one might expect for a restaurant considered by some to be ‘fine dining,’ the service at Josephine was perhaps equally surprising with a young staff that was not only a bit less refined than I’d expected, but also a bit discombobulated when it came to describing plates and presenting a bill that nearly doubled the price of a pre-ordered “Large Format” dessert I’d been quoted a price of $35 for when securing it with a credit card just two days before.

Taking a sort of pan-European approach to Southern ingredients with an ingredient steeped in seasonality and local produce it was with a few questions answered that an order was assembled, the $7 loaf of steaming hot pretzel bread arriving in a matter of minutes along with two salads including lightly charred snap peas with goat cheese and honey from which not a single unimpressive taste or texture would be found.

Onward with small plates, course two featured a pair of the more interesting plates offered on a menu with no lack of creativity and intrigue, and as much as the description of scrapple may turn some people off it can only be said the version served at Josephine is a whole different ballgame, the compressed meat treated to a light breadcrumb coating and served with elegance amidst greens and balsamic to reign in the natural sapor without burying it, a similar degree of subtlety discovered in poorly named ‘mustard dumplings’ that instead presented like pan-seared Parisian gnocchi with only a hint of the ingredient amidst a rich stew of pork, mushrooms, and peas.

Having discovered the housemade pastas in the Volunteer State to be almost universally on par with some of the best throughout the United States it was in two plus a plate of creamy risotto that savories would culminate after an unexplained thirty minute delay and although the crispy skinned duck was rosy and rich atop risotto that was marred by too much citrus both the ribbons of al dente pappardelle and tender agnolotti were picture perfect, the morels atop the former a very pleasant surprise while the sweet carrot reduction was as boldly flavored as it was colored, each bite leaving me to wonder if a better spin on peas and carrots has ever been prepared.

Having already mentioned the pricing issue related to dessert, it was equally perplexing that the already prepared tart was presented in whole tableside before being returned to the kitchen where it took nearly twenty minutes to cut, but setting aside these issues one would be hard pressed to find fault in a single aspect of the dish, a large number of discrepant ingredients coming together to form a flavor profile that ran the gamut from bitter ganache to milk chocolate rocks atop a lacquer of salty caramel while light sours from Meyer Lemon and orange zest melded seamlessly beneath the aromatics of freshly cut opal basil that lingered on the palate, if only for a moment, following each bite.

www.josephineon12th.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Josephine, Josephine on 12th, Nashville, Pork, Tennessee, Vacation

May 12, 2015
1:29 PM
by: Uhockey

Hattie B’s Hot Chicken, Nashville TN

Hattie B’s

Medium White with Pimento Mac n’ Cheese

Hot Dark with Red Skin Potato Salad

Banana Pudding

Peach Cobbler

Taking a trip to Belle Meade Plantation between meals three and four it was just prior to the post-work rush that we entered the original Hattie B’s, and finding almost no wait where a nearly two hour line would be noted just a few days later when we passed by it was on the outdoor covered patio that we indulged, nearly every item selected proving exactly how much quality ingredients benefit everything from soul food to fine dining as the fried chicken proved to be amongst the two or three best I’ve ever tasted, a subjectively high standard to say the least.

Opened near Vanderbilt as recently as 2012 by a father and son team known for their previous work at a nearby Meat-and-Three, Hattie B’s has skyrocketed to the top of most local “hot chicken” lists and receiving long lines of patrons as well as accolades a first bite of the juicy bird immediately explains the fervor – a light bit of heat found in the medium while a great depth of spice but no unnecessarily scorching peppers permeate the “hot” option, a few more degrees available to those interested but not something my Midwestern-born palate was willing to chance on that particular day.

Equally impressed with Pimento tinged Macaroni and Cheese, and truly surprisingly by skin-on Potato Salad that eschewed all the mustard in favor of cream and acid to balance the bite, it was with a duo of desserts that the meal finished up, the pudding a rather standard rendition with some of the ‘Nilla Wafers left crunchy while the cobbler with fresh peaches was an early summer treat with a whole lot of sweetness that I rather wish I’d have ordered a la mode.

http://www.hattieb.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Hattie B’s, Hattie B’s Hot Chicken, Nashville, Tennessee, Vacation

May 12, 2015
1:20 PM
by: Uhockey

Peg Leg Porker, Nashville TN

Peg Leg Porker

Shoulder, Smoked Green Beans, Mac n’ Cheese

Fried Peach Pie

Picked for its clever name, strong reviews, and proximity to Arnold’s Country Kitchen it was just after one o’clock that a table at Peg Leg Porker was found and approaching the counter where disappointment was allocated in disinterested service and a death of almost any branded T-shirt made for persons less than Jumbo-sized a small order was none-the-less procured – the “shout a name over the cacophony” service structure not really conducive to a pleasant experience even with the room less than 1/4 full.

Owned and operated by Carey Bringle, a locally raised man with an intriguing story including survival from childhood cancer that saw his right leg amputated, it should go without saying that much like any place I visit I really wanted to like Peg Leg Porker, and given the Pit-Master’s story plus dedication to the community it was while waiting that I wandered the large room – an indoor bar juxtaposing the outside patio with enough décor to tell the space’s story and accolades without being tacky – no small feat considering several other spots for ‘cue spread across the USA.

Still a bit put off by the young female cashier who acted as though any small question was a dramatic waste of her time it was perhaps ten minutes before the order was called out and taking the hickory smoked shoulder plus two sides to the table only to be called back 3 minutes later for a another item suffice it to say that the meat had cooled slightly by the time I finally took a taste, the smoky sapor of the pork quite pleasant on its own and best off left that way as both the mild and hot sauce proved far too tomato laden to be properly enjoyed.

Moving on to sides, a place where several have said Bringle and his team excel, there is good reason to believe the rumors as the creamy macaroni and cheese was far more flavorful than versions at steakhouses much more expensive while the green beans smoked over hickory were unexpectedly delicious with great depth of flavor, the lightly fried peach hand-pie a relatively disappointment comparatively, though not really any better or worse than one might expect from seasonal fruit in a glistening, glazed shell.

http://peglegporker.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Nashville, Peg Leg Porker, Pork, Tennessee, Vacation

May 12, 2015
10:28 AM
by: Uhockey

Arnold’s Country Kitchen, Nashville TN

Arnold’s Country Kitchen

Fried Grouper, Chicken n’ Dumplings, White Beans, Candied Yams, Mac n’ Cheese, Corn Muffin, Pancake, Banana Pudding, Chess Pie, Pecan Pie

Leaving a fair amount of breakfast from Pancake Pantry on the table before heading north to Gaylord Opryland Resort and Opry Mills mall it was after several hours of walking and shopping that we returned to downtown Nashville for a two-part lunch, the first stop seeing our trio just beat the crowd at Beard Award Winning Arnold’s, a landmark cafeteria-styled luncheonette fabled by locals and tourists alike.

Open in its current format for nearly as long as I’ve been alive and featuring Southern Classics in a setting where communal seating always at a premium, Arnold’s sits next to a rather sizable parking lot in a rapidly gentrifying area along 8th Ave and with rotating daily specials plus several standby signatures the only real question is how long a wait and what to order – our answers to this being no time at all, and two “Meat & 2s” plus bread and three plates of sweets in our case.

Not particularly renowned for their service, the staff left to navigate a rather narrow space behind steamer tables brimming with choices as line cooks worked feverishly at their backs, it is perhaps fortunate that many selections are of the ‘help yourself’ variety while mains and hot sides are scooped and slopped on plates to be stacked on trays, a bit of persistence needed in our case to get the chicken n’ dumplings that we’d ordered as the woman taking orders turned her attention elsewhere immediately after scooping up some candied yams and white beans.

Undoubtedly the most affordable meal of the trip, a whole lot of homestyle cuisine served up for just a shade over twenty bucks, it was immediately after sitting down that we tucked in and although both the pancake and cornbread were almost insufferably dry everything else on the plate was reference standard cafeteria grub – not the sort of ‘upscale American’ being peddled for top dollar elsewhere, just flaky fish beneath golden batter and rich stock with tender noodles and chicken plus the sort of sides you’d associate with holidays at Grandma’s house – the smoky beans particularly delicious, while the yams were sweet enough that they could have served as dessert themselves.

Moving onward to proper desserts, an older African American man circulating to refill beverages and clear trays in order to promptly seat new patrons, those fancying Southern staples would be well served to visit Arnold’s if only for some pudding and pie, the former a ‘Nilla wafer studded homemade iteration with stick-a-spoon-up-straight thickness and the later a tossup between Pecan and Chess as to which was better, the former almost purely nuts without much filler while the later was amongst the most creamy I’ve tasted despite a top that was cooked till cracking, an absolute steal at just $2.75.

http://www.arnoldscountrykitchen.com/

Posted in Arnold's, Arnold's Country Kitchen, Arnold's Meat & 3, Bread Basket, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Nashville, Pancakes, Pork, Tennessee, Vacation

May 12, 2015
7:28 AM
by: Uhockey

The Pancake Pantry, Nashville TN

Pancake Pantry

Cornmeal Pancakes with Honey

Swedish Pancakes with Lingonberry

Banana Bread Pancakes with Cinnamon Cream Sauce

Half Order French Toast

Coffee

Arriving in Nashville the night before I almost couldn’t wait to finally visit a restaurant my breakfast-loving self had long heard was amongst the best in the region, and opting to avoid rumors of long lines with an early Tuesday arrival our party of three walked right into the Pancake Pantry, a cozy table at the center of a large dining room ours for as long we’d want it, a relatively slow morning never once seeing the space more than half filled.

Celebrating “50 years & still 23 varieties” in reference to their eponymous griddled specialty it was with water filled and menus in hand that menus were perused and quickly poured the type of atrociously over-roasted coffee that makes it clear why some people absolutely hate the stuff it was thankfully that the kitchen was not overburdened, a trio of pancakes soon arriving alongside half an order of French Toast.

Unfortunately not offering 100% Maple Syrup, but instead featuring house-made Cinnamon Cream Sauce and some sort of artificial rubbish overly sweetened with High Fructose Corn Syrup, it was with the French Toast that the tasting began and featuring eggy cinnamon bread not quite soaked to the core the flavor was perfectly fine, though certainly nothing worth writing home about, a slather of butter and cinnamon cream adding a bit more flavor both here and to ‘banana bread’ pancakes that were oblong and lightly tinged in both fruit and nuts without being too sweet or aromatic at all.

Perhaps making a mistake in eschewing classic buttermilk or signature sweet potato flapjacks it was onward to thin Swedish pancakes that the tasting progressed and although already cool to touch by the time they arrived the flavor of both the light batter and lingonberries were quite pleasant, the far more toothsome cornmeal cakes dressed up in honey proving to be the best bites of the breakfast largely due to the lightly bronzed and buttery exterior, plus the fact that everything else was just so mediocre.

www.thepancakepantry.com

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Cornbread, Food, French Toast, Nashville, Pancake Pantry, Pancakes, Tennessee, The Pancake Pantry, Vacation

May 11, 2015
7:43 PM
by: Uhockey

Rolf and Daughters, Nashville TN

Rolf and Daughters

Orange Shrub with Lime

Sourdough with Seaweed Butter

Spring Onion Fritto Misto, Lemon, Bottarga

Crostini, Stracciatella, Watercress, Olio Nuovo

Sweet Potato, ‘nduja, Green Onion, Yogurt, Lime

Potato Gnocchi, Morel, Spring Garlic, Piave

Sweet Potato Agnolotti, Mustard Greens, Testa

Squid Ink Campanelle, Florida Squid, Shrimp, ‘nduja, Basil, Breadcrumbs

Stumptown Cold Brew

Meyer Lemon and Whole Grain Tart, Pistachios, Olive Oil

O+S Chocolate Cake, Coffee Panna Cotta, Milk

Strawberries, Rhubarb, Almond, Coconut

Unable to predict an arrival time for Nashville on a Monday during which several of the capitol’s best restaurants are closed, it was with good fortune that walk-in only Rolf and Daughters was found to be only 75% full just after 7:00pm and taking a seat at the far end of the communal dining table with several seats separating us from the next party it was to a meal of almost universal excellence that we were treated, the hippest place in town also serving some of the city’s best food.

Currently helmed by former Gwynnett St. Chef Owen Clark, a man who stunned me with his creative cuisine in Brooklyn during an April 2013 meal that still ranks amongst the most memorable in the borough, the sharable plates at Rolf and Daughters see the young toque revisiting familiar territory with a focus on local produce and bold spice profiles amidst modest amounts of protein and suggested to be enjoyed in a series of three courses by a server extremely well versed in both ingredients and technique one would be hard pressed to name a single savory that could have been improved, even the non-alcoholic orange shrub proving to be the sort of fresh flavor I love as light notes of drinking vinegar lingered beneath a bubbly top note of citrus and soda.

Inquiring on portions and preparations largely to maximize sampling of several plates amongst our party of three it was with house sourdough and seaweed butter that the meal kicked off and with vegetal brine helping to balance out the flavor-forward starter this is one bread most would benefit to pay for, the crisp crostini draped in watercress, stretchy cheese, and fresh olive oil equally simple yet delicious with an almost absolute lack of sweetness allowing pepper and buttery notes to flood the palate in a surprisingly unrestrained way.

Moving on the flavors less subtle, it should seem rather obvious that fried spring onions dressed in citrus and briny shaved roe presented a significant upgrade on standard restaurant rings and, although not exactly large enough to share amongst three as a few bites will only leave the diner wanting more, the tender rounds of sweet potato topped in spicy sausage and those same onions were absolutely brilliant, the heat only arriving on the finish as yogurt tinged in lime presents an up-front bit of tang.

Transitioning next to pastas, all made in house with ingredients that sang of farmer’s markets in the spring, it was in three plates that appetites were invested and although the gnocchi was a bit softer than purists may prefer the addition of nutty cheese, fresh garlic, and earthy morels provided a depth of flavor rarely seen at ‘hip’ restaurants, the sweet potato packed pockets of pasta draped in house-cured testa somewhat resembling the flavor of stewed collards while the al dente Campanelle once again found Calabrian pork working its magic amidst a jumble of sautéed seafood given extra texture by just enough breadcrumbs to make it all work.

More than impressed by savories, and fondly reminiscing about desserts from my Gwynnett St. experience, it was with a ‘one of each’ order from the sweets section that the meal would conclude, and paired to Stumptown’s bold coldbrew the results were nearly on par with the rest, only the slightly over-applied coconut on a chilled plate of strawberries and rhubarb seemingly out of place, while both the subtle citrus tart crowned in nuts and bitter panna cotta topped in crumbles of cookies and sweet milk ‘powder’ were exactly what I’d expected – a study of contrasts without compromise ready to challenge and surprise.

http://www.rolfanddaughters.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Italian, Nashville, Pork, Rolf and Daughters, Stumptown, Tennessee, Vacation

May 11, 2015
1:53 PM
by: Uhockey

Muddy’s Bakeshop, Memphis TN

Muddy’s Bakeshop

Buttermilk Pie

Coconut Chess Pie

Pecan Pie

Chocolate Chip, Pecan, Bourbon Pie

Chocolate-Peanut Butter Layer Cake

Chocolate with Chocolate Buttercream Cupcake, Neapolitan Cupcake, Grasshopper Cupcake, Red Velvet Cupcake

Selected as a last stop en route from Memphis to Nashville largely as a result of location plus a menu that seemed unlikely not to wow it was just after 2:00pm that we entered Muddy’s Bakeshop, and although service from the trio of young ladies behind the counter couldn’t have been more friendly suffice it to say that a lack of puddings as well as a weekly menu of options far less fanciful than many listed on the website was only the first of many disappointments, the overall quality of all but a few options proving to be far beneath the standard set by dozens of bakeries found throughout the United States.

Whimsical in nature with gnomes, coffee cups, and several branded items for sale speckled amidst the pastel tinged décor it was with samples of the bakeshop’s rather underwhelming toffee offered that we perused the options and with a few questions answered a nine-piece order was placed, part of it plated for immediate indulgence while the rest was boxed for later consumption – the cupcakes all exceedingly dry just a few hours later with only the ‘Prozac’ titled chocolate on chocolate proving even remotely well flavored as the grasshopper was exceedingly artificial in its ‘mint’ while the red velvet lacked any semblance of cream cheese tang.

Again finding the simple chocolate cake to be pleasant and moist in a slice of layer-cake upgraded by rich peanut butter frosting it was mostly the pies that had caught our attention from the start and although the ‘buttermilk’ was far less flavorful than other local iterations of Chess, the coconut topped version was absolutely reference standard creaminess beneath lightly toasted curls, a true standout amongst a quartet that also included Pecan pie with too much sticky filler and “Tollhouse Jack” that mostly tasted like an soft and sweet chocolate chip cookie despite the supposed inclusion of both nuts and booze.

http://www.muddysbakeshop.com/

Posted in cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Memphis, Muddy's Bakeshop, Tennessee, Vacation

May 11, 2015
12:16 PM
by: Uhockey

Germantown Commissary, Memphis TN

Germantown Commissary

Ribs and Shoulder Platter with a Roll, Deviled Egg, Baked Beans, Coleslaw

Lemon Ice Box Pie

Caramel Cake

Banana Pudding

Chosen as the final Barbeque stop on the way out of Memphis, Germantown Commissary may not gather the praise of Cozy Corner, Vergo’s, or Central, but tucked into a building absolutely bursting with charm and décor on the west side of town a small line of patrons clearly believed the truth I’d been lead to believe – that the Commissary is perhaps the best spot for ribs and hickory smoked pig in town.

In reality an old store, the location now open to serve up smoked meats and other delicacies such as wings, tamales, desserts, and sides for over thirty years, Germantown Commissary is the sort of place where a wait of twenty minutes or more is expected during even non-peak times and set alongside an old train track the only thing more interesting than the food, space, and absolutely charming service is when a locomotive soars by without horn or whistle, the very foundation of the building beginning to shake and rumble in a scene reminiscent of days forgot, or at least long passed.

Deservingly proud of ribs that are butchered in house and served dry after just over 6 hours in a smoker you’d be well served to see if offered a tour, as I was, it was perhaps fifteen minutes after seating that our combo-plate was delivered and with baked beans featuring nearly as much meat as sauce plus slaw that finally had a bit of vinegar amidst the cream it was largely to meats that attention was turned, the 14+ hour shredded pork shoulder exceedingly tender and nicely enhanced with both hot and mild sauces provided at the table while the ribs were smoked literally to the bone, a light pinkness to the flesh and minimal fat despite being the juiciest of the trip – not a bit of sauce needed to be enjoyed by a purist, but further enhancement found with a pinch of dry rub that added an almost molasses-like note.

Clearly not passing on dessert, several whole cakes and pies plus banana pudding by the *gallon* offered for catering or those choosing to partake at home, it was in a trio of options that the experience would conclude and although the banana pudding was a fine rendition it simply could not hold a candle to either the buttery moist yellow cake beneath a lacquer of caramel frosting nor the meringue topped ice box pie that singlehandedly made me rethink my general blasé feelings about citrus desserts, an almost lemonade sort of sweetness folded into the rich custard while the topping stood tall, proud, and as light as a cloud.

http://www.commissarybbq.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Germantown Commissary, Memphis, Pork, Tennessee, Vacation

May 11, 2015
10:51 AM
by: Uhockey

Uncle Lou’s Famous Fried Chicken, Burgers, and Hot Wings, Memphis TN

Uncle Lou’s Famous Fried Chicken. Burgers, and Hot Wings

3 Piece – Old Fashioned Breast, Thigh and Leg with Sweet and Spicy Love

Honey Butter Biscuits

Potato Salad

Cream Corn Nuggets

Pecan and Coconut Fried Pies

Spending the bulk of the morning at nearby Graceland it was just after noon that we entered Uncle Lou’s Famous Fried Chicken, and finding the space more than half-filled with locals it was while waiting in line that the menu was perused, a middle-aged African American man greeting me at the counter and coaxing me into ordering a few items I’d originally not intended when his female compatriot informed me that both caramel cake and strawberry banana pudding were already sold out.

Featured on Fieri’s Diners, Dives, and Drive-Ins – and happy to make the fact known both in-store and on their mobile “Fried Chicken. Burgers, and Hot Wings” truck parked outside – suffice it to say that Uncle Lou’s fits the second noun quite well and although not particularly ‘dingy’ the space could certainly use a good scrub down and sprucing up, some adverse GI symptoms experienced later that day not guaranteed to be related, but certainly not helped by a bathroom I’d not recommend visiting, nor a kitchen that all but forced some “sweet and spicy love” atop the dark meat portion of our plate.

Finding a seat with relative ease, the white walled restaurant soon to fill and generate a line nearly stretching out the door, it was after perhaps ten minutes that food arrived and although the coating surrounding the bird was indeed quite crispy and well-spiced the obviously pre-frozen poultry itself was largely lacking in flavor, a fact likely responsible for the suggestion of sauce that was a bit too sweet and far less fiery than I had originally feared.

Ignoring the potato salad as the smell alone was far too mustard-laden for my taste, it was onward to biscuits and fritters of cream corn that the tasting progressed, and with both offering soft, piping-hot centers tinged with sweetness offset by golden exterior crunch there was nary a bad bite to be found, the same to be said of two small handpies from a nearby baker that were suggested in place of missing cakes and pudding, the pecan perhaps a bit too heavy in filler while the coconut came across surprisingly natural with a creamy custard center that could easily have been featured as the base of a very elegant slice somewhere more refined.

http://www.unclelousfriedchicken.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Memphis, Tennessee, Uncle Lou’s, Uncle Lou’s Famous Fried Chicken, Vacation

May 11, 2015
7:07 AM
by: Uhockey

Porcellino’s Craft Butcher, Memphis TN

Porcellino’s Craft Butcher

Pain au Chocolate, Corn Muffin with Cinnamon Cream Cheese Icing, Pecan Croissant

Cold Brew from Relevant Roasters of Memphis

Bacon, Egg, and Cheese Biscuit

Cinnamon Roll

Pimento Cheese Gougeres

Dutch Baby

Almond Butterscotch Coffee Cake Bread Pudding with Malted Chocolate Gelato

At this point having thoroughly enjoyed dinners at both Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and Hog & Hominy it seemed only logical to spend our last breakfast in Memphis at Porecllino’s, the craft butcher, café, and purveyor of local provisions helmed by Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman located next door.

Recently opened, and garnering nearly as much acclaim as the two siblings to which it provides its meats, a morning visit to Porcellino’s is perhaps as “European” an experience as can be found in the state of Tennessee, and greeted by a friendly young man who acted as host, server, barista, and a great source of knowledge about the products and the city it was with quite an order that our meal progressed – the items rolling out in four courses precisely as requested while bold coffee was sipped and the space explored.

Sourcing almost everything used in-house from local purveyors, many of which were also featured on shelves or in a refrigerator case, it was with a trio of pastries that the meal began, and slowly cut up for sharing one would be hard pressed to name a more decadent use of cornmeal than the toothsome iced muffin, nor a more impressive non-traditional croissant than the $7 pecan packed pastry – its shatter on par with the oft-revisited favorite at San Francisco’s Knead Patisserie despite less arching and levity as far more nutty flavor was packed into the still-warm core.

Moving onward to savories and items freshly prepared in the kitchen it was admittedly taking a bit of a risk that the Bacon, Egg, and Cheese biscuit was ordered given the poor quality of the buttermilk round at Hog & Hominy, yet despite supposedly being the same recipe the version at Porcellino’s was superior in every way, the flavors more pronounced and the crumb far more moist – a buttery lightness found where density once prevailed as the smoky bacon, aged cheddar, and fluffy eggs sat atop a rise nearly twice that of the one offered at a similar price with sausage gravy the night before.

Unfortunately receiving the pimento cheese gougeres a bit deflated despite flavor and texture that were bold and almost ethereal, respectively, it was next in a cinnamon roll topped with molten frosting that we indulged and with aromatics that greeted the nose from nearly a foot away it was in quickly dispatching the roll that a tiny Dutch Baby was divided up, the crisp ring surrounding a soft center teaming with lemon that would have only been better if served in a full-grown portion, though at $5 the effort invested in the tiny cast iron version was perhaps the bargain of the morning, and certainly not the sort of thing seen anywhere else before.

At this point again singing the praises of Memphis’ native born Chefs, it was finally an item from the section listed as ‘Dessert’ arrived, and tossing any semblance of discretion to the wind whenever bread pudding is offered the daily Almond Butterscotch Coffee Cake composition was a $7 stunner, the flavors and textures diverse but complimentary thanks to a rich infusion of custard while rich chocolate gelato with light notes of malt slowly melted at its side.

http://porcellinoscraftbutcher.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Cornbread, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Italian, Memphis, Pancakes, Porcellino's, Porcellino's Craft Butcher, Pork, Tennessee, Vacation

HUSK, Nashville TN

The Farm House, Nashville TN

Jack’s Bar-B-Que, Nashville TN

Barista Parlor, Nashville TN

Puckett’s Grocery and Restaurant, Nashville TN

The 404 Kitchen, Nashville TN

Monell’s Restaurant, Nashville TN

Pied Piper Eatery, Nashville TN

Yeast, Nashville TN

Sky Blue Café, Nashville TN

Josephine, Nashville TN

Hattie B’s Hot Chicken, Nashville TN

Peg Leg Porker, Nashville TN

Arnold’s Country Kitchen, Nashville TN

The Pancake Pantry, Nashville TN

Rolf and Daughters, Nashville TN

Muddy’s Bakeshop, Memphis TN

Germantown Commissary, Memphis TN

Uncle Lou’s Famous Fried Chicken, Burgers, and Hot Wings, Memphis TN

Porcellino’s Craft Butcher, Memphis TN

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