Carnevino – The 19th Hole for The Mario Batali Foundation
Charcuterie Station
Salad Station
Bone-In Ribeye Station
Roasted Beets – horseradish, dijon, and arugula / Arugula Salad – goat cheese, mushrooms, and pickled onion / Lobster Salad Sandwich / Mixed Spring Vegetables with lemon and mint
Bresaola, Prosciutto, Lomo, Finocchiona, Head Cheese, Mortadella, Carne Cruda Crostini
Bone in Ribeye with Gorgonzola Mascarpone and Caramelized Onions, Rosemary Focaccia
Graciously invited to Carnevino as the guest of a friend for the $250 per person 19th Hole benefitting the Mario Batali Foundation it can only be said that while the stakes were a little too high for the silent auction the *steaks* were as impressive as ever, much like everything else within the standing-room only space featuring plenty of Italian wines and signature bites from Chef Nicole Brisson and her talented culinary team.
Now an annual experience of “a little golf, and a lot of food and wine” according to Mario himself, the 19th Hole marks the culmination of the chef’s Celebrity Swing Session and pulling out all the stops with several dining stations and a soundtrack of Led Zeppelin’s Physical Graffiti played beginning to end one would be hard pressed to name a more exemplary bit of ‘event dining,’ even polenta and pasta from chafing dishes showing great texture when paired to their respective braised short ribs and meaty ragu.
Perhaps a bit short on celebrities outside the culinary ranks, but still featuring the smiling faces of a slightly buzzed Batali plus Ming Tsai, Elizabeth Falkner, and more it should come as no surprise that although I did not win the raffle for which I purchased a pair of $50 tickets the experience was still quite memorable with great music, food, and friends all to the benefit of a truly meaningful cause.
More than a touch impressed by the quality of sourcing, service, and execution during a family-style meal at Portofino earlier this year it was without question that the newly launched Spring menu was more than enough an impetus to return, and opting to enjoy the finely crafted flavors in tasting menu format while watching Game 2 of the Stanley Cup Finals in the lounge the ten new savories and three desserts sent forth by Michael LaPlaca again proved to be some of the city’s most dazzling, not one less than meticulously crafted from some of the very best ingredients around.
Having previously discussed the restaurant’s design, and as such left here to focus only on the cuisine, suffice it to say that service at the bar was bolstered by the Chef himself presenting each dish with full description straight from the kitchen and starting off with a fig salad marrying the flavors of roasted banana to creamy gorgonzola while cutting the fruit’s sweetness with acid a high bar was set, the follow-up of wild caught squid snappy beneath light breading with a melt-in-the-mouth texture discovered just as tooth broke skin.
Enthralled with the housemade pastas during visit one, and as such treated to one each of the new creations over the course of the next hour, it was entirely as a result of the dish’s primary ingredient that a full portion of the decadent raviolo draped in truffle and speck was presented, and precisely as rich as one expect from a dish of its constituents it was predictably still a tossup as to whether the rest were any less exquisite – the signature ripatelli and ribbons of pappardelle in a sauce of foie gras and cream each boiled to a perfect al dente while potato gnocchi were feather light alongside crispy offal in a gravy of earthy aromatics amongst butter and tender beans.
Onward to secondi, the majority of the new plates featuring a seasonally appropriate seafood slant, it was admittedly a surprise that a supple cut of salmon atop a polenta cake found such an amicable partnership with fresh peas in two forms, and although perhaps a bit overcooked with the center just past raw a duo of seared scallops proved equally well accompanied, the lightly cooked lettuce reminiscing the flavors of chow mein while crisp bits of caramelized onion helped meld the otherwise robust savory tones.
Thankfully spared a ‘steak and potatoes’ dish that Michael teased was requisite for a boy from Cleveland as such a thing would have undoubtedly cut short later indulgence at dessert, course nine featured a pounded cut of pork beneath zesty caponata and although the golden breading over soft flesh undoubtedly shined in its own right, it simply couldn’t compare to the crisp scales overlying Branzino – each flaky bite rivaling the signature Sea Bass at Guy Savoy at half the price with a baton of creamy potatoes one would be hesitant to have to share.
Admittedly finding desserts during the first visit a bit blasé when compared to that which came before, suffice it to say that spring has seen a substantial upgrade in Portofino’s sweets and although the Tiramisu still remains for those fancying a classic the better decision is to take the paths less traveled, a trio of soufflés themed in American cookies standing proud, fluffy, and perfect for sharing while a Nutella crème brûlée was expectedly rich beneath caramelized nuts and lightly boozed cream, the ‘cake within a cake’ undeniably the most interesting of the group with seasonal berries and a delicate ricotta sponge wrapped in a thin wall of New York style cream cheese.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Still a hidden gem in a world of celebrity chefs one would be foolish to overlook the confidence of Portofino in putting forth “by Michael LaPlaca” as part of its name, and without the fanfare of Batali, Conant, or that guy from “Cake Boss” the restaurant at Mirage is arguably putting out Las Vegas’ best Italian fare at a pricepoint every bit as favorable with equal or better sourcing, service, and creativity, plus the name on the door standing over the stove.
RECOMMENDED: Every Single Pasta on the menu is special, and so too is the Pork, Branzino, and Cassata Cheesecake.
AVOID: Generally preferring my scallops as close to raw as possible the sear was simply too much for my taste, though other’s impressions may vary. I also did not fancy the reinterpreted cannoli during visit one, the only dessert remaining save for the Tiramisu from the previous season’s sweets.
TIP: Neither the family style nor tasting menu are officially listed as dining options at Portofino, but both are easily accommodated by reaching out to the restaurant where GM Chris Zadie has twice proven to be amongst the city’s best hosts.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Located directly across from nearby Container Park, and featuring a name as well as signage that has drawn disapproval from many since even before opening its doors, Glutton from Chef Bradley Manchester has no less received quite a bit of praise from those who’ve actually indulged in the cuisine and taking a look at the newly hatched brunch menu with a baker’s dozen plates plus several cocktails on Saturday morning it seems that not only is the name at least partially appropriate, but so too are the accolades.
Perhaps an unknown commodity to many in Las Vegas, the young chef having sharpened his teeth at several hotels including a recent stint at Green Valley Ranch, Chef Manchester describes Glutton as offering ‘urban neighborhood cuisine’ and although he himself was not present during an 11:00am visit the kitchen showed few signs of vacating the concept while execution was nearly spot on, the service performing a rare feat of being both professional and whimsical while treating every diner from pre-teen to elderly with attentiveness and respect.
Making a few menu selections while letting the kitchen send out a few plates for which they felt most proud, it was my dining companion’s focus on cocktails that saw seven drinks spanning both brunch and dinner menus arrive, and tasting each in limited quantity I was particularly impressed by the smooth fruit and coffee tones of Morningshade while the Deer in the Headlights riff on a Manhattan proved refined despite being amply boozed up, the Lemon Drop leaning Fremont Flip another dangerous sip with a frothy head and citrusy finish that might make it way too easy for even the most restrained to quickly end up soused.
Turning attention to the food, suffice it to say that baked goods and pastries were expected to be strong in a place with a logo suggesting a stretched waistline, and although the choux-based crullers resting in bitter cream were decidedly an adult taste well suited for one or two the cinnamon roll with crackling caramel was a decadent block of curled brioche beneath a lacquer of vanilla frosting well suited for diners of all-ages with a portion more than ample for a whole four-top to share.
Onward to more, the kitchen coursing everything out so that the table was never overburdened, round two showed the kitchen’s strength in sourcing with snappy crisps draped in smoked salmon spiced like pastrami amidst several bold accoutrements before sending forth a casserole of baked eggs with spice and acidity deftly cut by crispy kale, and although the eve- hip pork skins would only be served on request a bit later, these too were nothing short of a twisted inspiration as the flavors of Cheetos were shortly reminisced with a light bit of heat then left to linger on the lips.
Transitioning here to entrees, a duo of savories meeting with the menu’s unexpected star, it was to what I consider to be the city’s new standard for pancakes that course three began, and with an ethereal crumb generated by leavening beneath butter and syrup the texture was such that a whole stack still would not weigh too heavily on the belly, a good thing as the duo of smoky Pork Benedict with crispy duck fat potatoes and “Steak and Eggs” that unfortunately trended a bit too sour by pairing kimchee to kalbi were each quite hearty, the eggs of the former notably a bit overpoached and the only real flaw in execution found throughout the course of our two-hour stay.
Rounding out savories with a toasty Panini composed of three types of cured meat beneath a veil of Spanish cheese and housemade fig jam it was here that eyes proved in excess to capacity, a trio of desserts and the daily special of a Belgian Waffle each thwarting any intention to not overeat, the creamy arancini a mature sort of finale featuring fried cinnamon risotto with a milk chocolate center while the profiteroles harkened my favorite dessert of 2014, the milk steeped in buttered popcorn providing an adept frozen foil to the sweet n’ savory flavors of Cracker Jack while the ginger tinged ice cream proved equally impressive as it swiftly melted over roasted peaches and a caramelized pecan crust.
FOUR STARS: Already executing at a very high level from the kitchen to the front of the house one would be hard pressed to name a more interesting spot for brunch in DTLV than Glutton, and with all due respect to the lines of folks waiting in lines at eat. a quick glimpse at each menu should make one rethink such follies…or at least consider the bar raised when looking for a top tier morning meal worth the hassles of finding parking and feeding downtown meters.
AVOID: Steak and Eggs, Pig Roast, Reading too much into the online menu, and seating too close to the room’s corners where tables seem a bit crowded.
TIP: Although the online menu during our visit indicated that Lunch is offered from 11L00-2:30 Monday through Saturday, this was in fact incorrect and has since been remedied to indicate 11:00-2:30 Monday through Friday with Brunch offered 9am-3pm on Saturday and Sunday. Menu selections are also notably subject to change, a few items such as the uni toast not present during our visit while the Waffle was offered as an off-menu special.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Open from 10pm until 10am, at least according to the sign on the door, Las Vegas Donut House is unfortunately far less predictable than signage would suggest and having twice visited during the aforementioned hours to find doors locked and lights out it was entirely a matter of location that saw a visit chanced on Saturday – the “Open” neon illuminated though the space behind the counter was entirely abandoned as I stepped through the doors.
Decidedly divey, with two small tables juxtaposing a case containing several familiar varieties of donuts ranging from raised and cake to fritters and crullers that were unfortunately sold-out, it was perhaps two minutes after entering that an elderly Asian man emerged from the back and nodding politely as if to ask what I desired an order was decided upon, a request for whatever was most fresh leading me to select three warm rings plus two personal favorites, the results largely impressive at a tally of just under five bucks.
Electing not to stay in store to indulge, instead driving a short distance to somewhere that coffee and Free Wi-Fi could be had, a first taste of Donut House’s goods found pleasantly soft yeastiness beneath messy bits of cinnamon crumb and moving onward to bites of glazed blueberry the quality of the glaze and the mix were surprisingly quite high, a compliment paid equally to the soft crumb topped in Strawberry that was unfortunately far too sweet.
At this point moving onward to favorites that, admittedly, were not described as ‘fresh’ when I asked, it was into the sour cream old fashioned that I first sank teeth and with a nice kick of sour and generally smooth melt the results were on par with many of Sin City’s best, an exact opposite discovered in the greasy fritter that was not only undercooked and doughy, but virtually devoid of fruit leaving more than 80% in the garbage and a rather bad taste in my mouth.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Well priced and seemingly able to please when items are fresh, Las Vegas Donut House is a “your mileage may vary” experience at best, and with several similar spots in the city offering superior goods with more predictable hours a visit here should be more a matter of convenience than a matter of choice.
RECOMMENDED: Raised Cinnamon Crumb, Old Fashioned.
AVOID: Apple Fritter, Strawberry Glaze.
TIP: Sold at prices varying by selection, signage indicates that ‘mixed dozens’ are available at $9 for any 12 donuts. Cash only.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Long on my breakfast to-do list, though not particularly close to home, Saturday breakfast at a space known by some as Omelet House and More, but by others as simply “50’s Diner” saw the sort of food and scene that speaks of an era long past, and with the sounds of Chuck Berry and The King playing overhead it seems like no matter the name there are a whole lot of locals well aware that this place exists.
Owned and operated by the same family for many years, and located just down the way from Boulder City Station, 50’s diner is decidedly a lowkey operation that thrusts patrons back in time with décor as well as smiley service as ‘Please seat yourself’ signage belies a sort of effortlessness that never seems put on, the dog-eared laminated menus speaking to oft ordered classics while specials rotate daily depending on ingredients and chef’s whim.
Open 7a-3p Seven-Days a week, it was with a few questions answered that an order was formed, and omitting biscuits and compotes that were admittedly frozen or canned in order to focus on scratch made selections the first bites of the morning paired to repeat pours of coffee were of the restaurant’s “signature” banana bread, the flavor extremely natural and none-too-sweet with the sort of flavor that spoke to lots of butter, nuts, and fruit plus just a pinch of cinnamon and nutmeg.
Unable to resist pancakes that some have said to be some of the better ones in the city, but happy to set aside the pseudo-syrup in favor of 100% pure stuff from Indiana brought from home, the decision between sweet cream and buttermilk led to an order of the former and with a thinness that makes three a not-unreasonable portion for just $5.99 the light flavors and soft tooth are undeniably pleasant, the French Toast of white bread with just a bit of cinnamon egg wash and confectioner’s sugar far less interesting and, as such, best passed.
Offering any number of shakes, floats, malts, and sodas the dessert menu at 50’s Diner is unfortunately limited to only two options and informed that the apple pie is bought from “a local bakery,” but assured the Marquise is made each night in house, a small rectangle of the graham cracker and chocolate compilation was ordered and with dots of whipped cream serving as garnish the flavor proved to be quite rich with a texture not unlike tiramisu, a nice way to end for just $2.99.
THREE STARS: Friendly without seeming fake and offering good food at an extremely fair price 50’s Diner is certainly not a destination, but worth checking out if one is in the area looking for good pancakes and a whole bunch of omelets, the later seemingly quite popular with those at surrounding tables.
Dark Chocolate Birthday Cake – Dark Chocolate Ganache, Sweet and Salty Frosting, American Buttercream
Double Espresso over Ice
Delaying a fifth visit to Chef Brian Massie’s Hearthstone until the Spring menu launch, dinner on Saturday night saw six persons sit down in the spacious restaurant at a table overlooking the pass, and with the restaurant now free from lightgroup after the Hakkasan buyout the cooking has found a whole new level of creativity while the experience is more mature, the kitchen ever diligent in sourcing and preparation while service under newly appointed GM Peter Varela has improved substantially, easily outperforming several Las Vegas Boulevard locations purporting a more ‘upscale’ environment.
Admittedly having contacted the restaurant in advance in order to concoct a tasting menu focused on seasonal items felt to best exemplify the kitchen’s ever evolving approach it was with frequent check-ins by both Chef Massie and Executive Chef Jordan Hoffman that the evening progressed and as everything from Pearl Jam to Fleetwood Mac played overhead the meal started light, an heirloom watermelon salad with feta and creamy avocado undoubtedly listing summer in its influences while a duo of poke and silky ceviche saw similar ingredients juxtaposing freshly sliced fish with a balance of aromatic flavors that acted to highlight the protein without once becoming overcomplicated or fussy in the least.
Transitioning next to a plate of warm calamari married to buttery chickpeas beneath a red pepper and sautéed zucchini veil it was again to the vibrancy of simple tomatoes on toast that we were treated, the stretchy stracciatella providing a deft balance for light smoke and acidity while a pool of creamy burrata proved no less competent at balancing out the flavors of cured duck and greens paired to sliced figs from MTO Café Chef Johnny Church’s back yard, a light touch on honey almost making me wish I was dining alone so I could enjoy the whole bowl.
Having recently begun to make their own sausage in house, a logical next-step considering the quality of Brian’s housemade meatballs of past meals, it was with good fortune that the next two plates featured both of these items with the spicy beef meatball sliced atop lightly blistered flatbread straight from the oven of Enrico Sautto and the sausage presented seared alongside lightly dressed greens and house mustard, the sapor of pork finding its foil in tender rice and simmered apples plus a diverse spice profile that tiptoed a fine line between savory and sweet.
Told that the collar of the halibut featured in the ceviche is occasionally offered as a wood roasted special well worth coming out for it was with two filets from the same fish that entrees began and with sweet carrot pudding serving to highlight the subtle yet meaty fish the whole grain salad was both nutty and aromatic, the same to be said of black truffle butter served atop a juicy hanger steak that unfortunately had spent just a bit too long on the grill for some of our tastes.
Rounding out savories with an off-menu special of smoky stonefruits surrounding tender pork shoulder that ate like ham beneath a lightly caramelized crust it was additionally to a quartet of sides that the table was treated, and running the gamut from simple grilled onions to carrots cooked soft in cow fat it was the tender mushrooms amidst legumes that provided the most elegant of bites, the natural earthy flavors brought to a peak on the palate through the faintest hints of mint.
Admittedly more than sated it was with espresso and tea served that a short wait would thankfully precede desserts and yet when the items finally did arrive it was almost without question that stomach space would located, the “secret dessert” of Aebleskivers topped with fruits and sweet ricotta an absolutely inspired riff on the classic Danish pancake while the lightly sweetened soufflé itself was itself quite well prepared with a proud and proper rise, a pair of Chef Massie’s “personal favorite” Birthday Cakes rich with bitter chocolate but brightened by buttercream and lightly salinity proving every bit as whimsical as the name would suggest, and entirely worth the indulgence even as buttons threatened to burst.
FIVE STARS: Setting aside the location across from my home and the fact that the Hearthstone family has always treated myself and my friends quite well I feel objectively fair stating that the new spring menu at Hearthstone marks a whole new era for the restaurant, the ingredients and execution reaching new heights of boldness while service has evolved in awareness as well as flow. Not yet a year old and recently hiring a new GM I look forward to seeing where the experience trends next and only hope that the evolution continues as Chef Massie and his team open Salute later this year.
RECOMMENDED: Heirloom Watermelon Salad, Wild Caught Halibut, Whole Braised Carrot, Blue Foot Mushrooms, Hearthstone ‘Secret’ Dessert, and provided one is dining with a group both the Birthday Cake and anything the kitchen is doing with Pork.
AVOID: Fans of the Hanger or steaks prepared more ‘medium’ will likely enjoy the version at Hearthstone, but for my dollar a thicker cut more easily prepared rare would probably prove a better choice.
TIP: Now featuring a DJ during late evenings on Friday and Saturday those interested in such things will find both the patio and lounge area of the restaurant quite lively with both locals and Red Rock Resort guests until well past our 10pm departure while those seeking a more subdued affair would be best served to request a seat closer to the kitchen, or to consider the soon to be shifting menu offered during Saturday and Sunday Brunch.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Having tweeted a picture of Biscuit Love Brunch’s famous ‘bonuts’ while dining in Nashville just two weeks prior it really wasn’t surprising when Yardbird Chef Todd Harrington tagged me in a post showing their own ‘take one’ of fried balls of buttermilk, and essentially inviting myself over to the restaurant after lunch at Delmonico the creativity and generosity Pastry Chef Vivian Chang and the restaurant itself were once again on display; a quartet of desserts arriving after a bit of chat during late-brunch hours that still saw the room more filled than all of its “Restaurant Row” neighbors combined.
Having already experienced the other three options, but always happy to indulge in what I personally believe to be the best Chess Pie in America even after recent trips to Georgia, Florida, Tennessee, and the Carolinas, it should go without saying that Fried Oreos and the restaurant’s signature cake were also well received, and turning finally to the true piece de resistance each of the four golden orbs showed quite well for a rough draft – the greaseless exterior giving way to a center that was significantly more dense and buttery than those served down South while housemade apple filling and ice cream both working in expected harmony beneath thinly sliced fruit and a drizzle of caramel that reminisced of autumn, the perfected item hopefully ready to roll out far sooner with just a few small tweaks.
Grilled Ricotta Cheese Sandwich with Local Basil and Heirloom Tomato Soup
Crispy Fried Young Chicken with Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad and Spicy Creole Tomato Glaze
Dry Aged Bone-In Ribeye with Creole Seasoning and Maitre d’ Butter
Certified Piedmontese New York Strip with Olive Oil, Sea Salted, Roasted Garlic, Rosemary
Baked Anson Mills Grits with Vermont White Cheddar and Bacon
Creamed Corn Gratinee
Sweet Potato Doughnuts with Espresso Foam
Caramel Butter Cake with Vanilla Double Cream
Duck Egg Crème Brulee with Berries and Orange Tuile
Pecan Pie with Oatmeal Shortbread Crust, French Vanilla Ice Cream, and Caramel Sauce
Key Lime Pie with Candied Lime and Strawberry Sauce
Located within Restaurant Row at The Venetian, and still flying the banner of Chef Emeril Lagasse under the direction of Ronnie Rainwater, it was at the behest of a friend that I returned to Delmonico Steakhouse on Saturday afternoon and having contacted the kitchen in advance to be sure some dinner selections could be ordered during lunch the meal that followed was the sort of experience that left me scratching my head wondering why I’d not sat down at the restaurant in more than a half-dozen years, let alone why the space does not get the accolades it most certainly deserves.
Admitting up front a fondness for Emeril that stems from my first fine dining experience many years ago at his eponymous restaurant in Orlando, not to mention several equally impressive visits to the celebrity chef’s kitchens in Las Vegas and New Orleans, it was mere moments after the restaurant’s 11:30am opening that I checked in at the hostess stand and quickly led to a seat in the vast main dining area it was with exquisite service throughout that the afternoon would commence, visits from Chef Rainwater as well as the restaurant’s GM and Director of Culinary Operations Sean Roe helping to provide some background on sourcing, techniques, and their history with the man who made “BAM” as much an ingredient as a phrase.
Recently reinventing their logo and constantly tweaking a menu that features no lack of diversity to compliment several signatures, it was to two small popovers and a large bowl of truffled chips that the table was treated as menu decisions were made, and acknowledging that I knew the meal to be hosted even before sitting down a total of eighteen items were received, most of them self-selected, though a few were simply sent out.
Dining in an unfilled space as both the Venetian and Palazzo were without conventions on this rare weekend it was with somewhat jarring overhead tunes from the likes of the Black Keys, Strokes, and Arctic Monkeys that the air above was filled and within fifteen minutes of placing our order the table was soon crowded with plates, a juicy and sizable Steak Burger brought to satisfy the table’s youngest diner while the rest partook in silky duck liver with classic fruit and crispy bread accoutrements plus thick cuts of bacon that almost made the word look like a slight, each fork-tender bite supple without being fatty as brine was boldly balanced by root beer glaze reined in by pickled bits of watermelon rind.
Deciding that a few seasonal plates as well as a classic would be best before progressing to entrees sure to be quite a bit more robust, it was with a light green salad alongside a fine riff on grilled cheese that round two began and with the tomato soup as deep and vibrant as any in recent memory it’s pairing to creamy ricotta on brioche was without doubt a hidden gem, the famous quartet of crustaceans every bit as snappy and smoky as remembered though the teensy biscuit still fails to make any sense.
At this point ready and waiting for a Bone-In Ribeye aged on premises for just short of 60-days it was quite the surprise when not only it, but also a Piedmontese New York Strip arrived, and with the desired earthy funk of the former bullet-pointed through the addition of butter the grassy wet-aged flavor of the Piedmontese was a fork-tender study in bold contrast, both dinner-menu sides setting high standards for their respective ingredients as the crispy fried bird beneath finger-licking tomato glaze immediately stirred debate as to whether it was perhaps even better than that at nearby Yardbird – a question that would make a great throwdown if the two restaurants could get Sands Corporation to set up such an event.
Never once disappointed by dessert in an Emeril establishment it was in one of those “I’ll take one of each” menus that sweets were presented, but keeping in mind the days later eating and the fact that there were only three diners present a bit of restraint brought forth only five, the hefty application of whipped cream unfortunately muting the impact of Key Lime Pie while both Butter Cake and Crème Brûlée were as rich as expected without doing much to challenge convention, the Pecan Pie and Sweet Potato Donuts thus stepping into the spotlight as absolute must orders with the former almost devoid of filler as candied nuts melded with ice cream and caramel and the latter shockingly light at the center despite a shell as robust as that of the chicken, an aromatic autumnal taste rising high on the palate whether enjoyed on their own or dipped in espresso tinged foam.
FOUR STARS: Noting that, per request, our hosted dining experience was a compilation of both lunch and dinner selections it should simply be said that if Delmonico Steakhouse were willing and able to offer both menus simultaneously throughout the day it very well may be the most dynamic Steakhouse option in all of Las Vegas. Nailing the execution of nearly every dish presented over the course of two-and-a-half hours while offering an environment marred only by a soundtrack that would have seemed slightly less out of place across the hall at Batali’s B&B there is no doubt a reason why Delmonico has withstood the test of time in a city where rapid turnover is more often the norm, and although oft overlooked by both locals and visitors alike, those sitting down for a meal are almost assured to find not only the classics and great cuts of meat, but also some bites of brilliance that they never may have guessed.
RECOMMENDED: Crispy Fried Young Chicken, Apple Cured Kurobuta Bone-In Bacon, Certified Piedmontese New York Strip. Baked Anson Mills Grits, Pecan Pie.
AVOID: Key Lime Pie, and that silly little Rosemary Biscuit.
TIP: Apparently tuning down the tunes during the evening, an idea that seems overdue in all but the lounge at lunch, those interested in novelty would be well advised to call Delmonico and inquire about upcoming ‘set menu’ dinners including massive cuts of their signature Prime Beef with sides including seasonal produce and novelties such as a proper spinach soufflé.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Buttermilk Pancakes with Strawberries and Whipped Cream
Chicken and Waffles
Double Chocolate Cookie
Chocolate Brownie
Intrigued by not only the concept of ‘locals’ casinos, but more so by the early morning activity at such places, and twice impressed by the quality of the pancakes and pastries at Station Casinos Grand Café it was amidst Las Vegans and visitors that breakfast was enjoyed within the confines of Santa Fe Station and similar to its Strip adjacent brother and Red Rock location in Summerlin the breakfast fare was once again far superior to several more pricey competitors while the baked also proved by-and-large impressive shortly after emerging from the oven just after 6:30am.
Lengthy but narrow, with a sort of ‘patio’ overlooking the gaming floor adjacent to the well stocked pastry case, it was on the right side of the restaurant with a view of the television showing Sportscenter that I asked to be sat and greeted by a friendly Hispanic man just about to go off-shift water was quickly filled and a pair of pastries delivered, my order of entrees transferred to a middle-aged Caucasian fellow who seemed to take a minute to get his bearings at the beginning of his day.
Beginning with a simple donut, the $1.25 ring resembling those at Dunkin but not quite as soft in crumb, it seemed to me that while the baked goods were indeed fresh that this fried one might have been a bit old and moving on to the Blueberry Muffin a far better bite was found, the base quite buttery even before adding a little bit more while the top was speckled with pearls of sugar giving the whole thing a light crackle as several fresh berries burst in each bite.
Eventually flagging down my original server for a water refill, even though I’m rather sure he was off the clock, it was not long before entrees arrived from the fellow who seemed to have finally woken up and setting aside “faple,” as in fake maple, syrup in favor of the good stuff the pancakes again proved light and fluffy with light topping of whipped cream and fresh strawberries while the waffle, too, was quite admirable with a good crunch and soft center, the crisply fried breast of chicken perhaps a little more greasy than some would prefer, but at the same time a whole lot better in its hand-battered herbal flavor than the previously-frozen fingers served at 24/7 spots elsewhere.
Sated and happy, but also intrigued by a few novelties within the case of cupcakes and croissants, it was with two items boxed and bagged that I settled the tab and taking my leave to less smoky environs than the casino itself it was with coffee in hand that I partook in two chocolate concoctions that again proved quite pleasant, the rich double chocolate chip cookie with slivers of almonds rich and almost ‘brownie-like’ while the actual brownie was more like a slab of sheet cake with slick chocolate ganache and patriotic sprinkles that may not exactly justified the $4.50 tab, but would have been absolutely excellent warmed up beneath some ice cream as offered amongst the menu’s desserts.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Not the sort of place that is ever going to win any awards or critical praise, Grand Café remains a great option for an affordable breakfast with some of the best pancakes in town.
RECOMMENDED: Pancakes, Cookies, Blueberry Muffin.
AVOID: Donut.
TIP: Locals are encouraged to keep their eyes on mailers from the Casino and to sign up for the free Boarding Pass card as $15 off $30 coupons are frequently offered.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Krispy Kang-Kong – Crispy battered water spinach with garlic mayo dip
Ngo-yong – Cebu’s Chinese Fried Vegetable Lumpia made up of ubod, palm heart flavored with Chinese five-spice powder called Ngohiong
Lechon Belly de Cebu – Slow roasted and seasoned boneless pork belly
Chicken Skin BBQ – Chicken skin marinated and grilled in our special barbecue sauce
Halo-Halo
Ube Cheesecake
Cookie Butter Pie
Located in the cozy corner of a shopping plaza on West Flamingo, Filipino stalwart Café de Cebu had long been on my radar despite a brief October closure by the Health Department for questionable refrigeration practices, and recently reminded of the space by the words of a friend it was for dinner on the night before Memorial Day that I finally stopped in to find myself the only diner in the space, a pleasant experience had thanks to 1-on-1 service more than happy to educate me on a cuisine and culture of which I admittedly have much to learn.
Proudly displaying accolades from the local press for a sizable menu filled with traditional fare straight out of proprietor Mary Villarante’s native Philippines, a meal at Café de Cebu is likely to find unprepared or timid at a bit of a loss, but with ample descriptions provided both in print and from the waitstaff the biggest question becomes one of portions and predilections, a whole lot of offal to be found amidst items slightly more familiar, the first timer encouraged to do their research and ask advice as ‘signatures’ proved to be not only accessible, but also quite good.
Told that no diner at Cebu should go without the Ngo-yong or highly praised pork belly it was with an order of the former that dining commenced and originally serenaded by a native cooking show with subcaptions I admittedly played the ‘dumb American’ in requesting *my* native Cavaliers be turned on instead, the crunchy fried cylinders of pork and hearts of palm rich in cloves as well as allspice proving a bit too heavy to be fully enjoyed in such quantity, though certainly something worth sharing amongst friends.
Moving on to a substantial bowl of fried spinach that thankfully suffered from far less sog than did the aforementioned eggrolls, suffice it to say that this $3.99 dish easily justifies its cost despite falling just short of that at Nittaya’s in terms of delicacy while the barbeque chicken skins glazed in sweet sauce prove an equally impressive value for just two-dollars more, even if the crisp flesh isn’t exactly the easiest thing to liberate from a thin skewer of wood.
At this point turning my full attention to the restaurant’s signature item, my order apparently amongst the last bits left from a fifty-pound roast to begin the day, there is no doubt a reason that many have called the Lechon de Cebu one of the city’s best pieces of pork, and costing just $1 an ounce with orders as small as a half-pound available the small bowl proved just enough for one as skin shattered like glass over supple flesh, a trio of sauces ranging from fermented and funky to sweet and saline each proving more than adequate to temper the fat.
Unfortunately sold out of several traditional sweets, but offering a few specials in addition to the laminated menu’s offerings, it was with a large bowl of Halo-Halo that a sampling of desserts began and although the purple ube ice cream was a bit less flavorful that I’d have expected the amalgam of textures beneath it was more than happy to compensate – everything from melons to corn and gelatin dispersed amongst ice crystals and cream in a portion more than adequate to share, the same not to be said of tiny circles of inconsequential pie and cheesecake, though at $2 each both the quality and quantity here, too, seemed quite fair.
THREE STARS: Admitting a lack of familiarity with Filipino food in general there is little doubt that Café de Cebu has a lot to offer those willing to explore the menu, but with servers quick to recommend signatures that often sell out well before closing one wonders whether other items stack up – a question surely requiring a repeat visit earlier in the day, or at least as part a larger group.
RECOMMENDED: Lechon Belly de Cebu, Krispy Kang-Kong.
AVOID: Ngo-Yong unless dining with a group, and arriving late when popular items are prone to be long gone.
TIP: Currently offering $15 off $30 dining vouchers through restaurants.com, those looking for a deal would be well advised to pick one up.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
(Plate 5 Bread Pudding French Toast with Caramelized Bananas / Belgian Waffles, Fresh Whipped Cream, Macerated Berries with Lemon Zest, Pure Maple Syrup)
(Plate 6 Grilled Filet Mignon with Rosemary / Lemon Rosemary Airline Chicken Breast / Applewood Smoked Bacon / Roasted Pork Sausage / Chimichurri Crusted Rack of Lamb / Cheddar and Bacon Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes)
(Plate 7 Lemon Tart / Chocolate Tart / Cheesecake / Pineapple Upside Down Cake / Milk Chocolate and Dark Chocolate Ganache Suckers)
(Plate 8 Grilled Peaches, Bacon, and Burrata / Chocolate Covered Strawberries / Mixed Nuts / Dates and Apricots / Cheddar, Brie, Blue, Idiazabal Cheese / Yogurt and Granola Parfait)
(Plate 9 Fruit Tart / Chocolate Caramel Crunch Bar / Peanut Butter Mousse with Chocolate Ganache / Hazelnut Chocolate Tart)
(Plate 10 Raspberry Chocolate Tart / Passion Fruit Parfait / Strawberry Parfait)
Heavily clad in silver when it opened its doors to high rollers in 1981, Bally’s Sterling Brunch has undergone a few changes in the last thirty-four years, including a brief closure that saw it reinvented within BLT-Steak in 2014, but still considered a piece of classic Las Vegas on the ‘you’ve got to do it once’ list for locals and tourists alike a visit on the Sunday preceding Memorial Day showed the place to be still going strong even despite a doubling in price across the three decades past.
Undeniably a pricey experience, currently tallying $90 (or $85 for those presenting a Total Rewards card,) but justified by its boutique nature with all-you-can drink Champagne, Screwdrivers, Fresh Squeezed Orange Juice, or Coffee plus a spread including Grilled Lobsters, American Caviar, and King Crab Legs that far outshine the meager offerings at overwrought spots elsewhere, arrival at the doors of BLT Steak during service is likely to be met by a short line but with reservations the wait is minimal, my 9:30am arrival seeing me seated within five minutes by a GM who showed great skill in memorizing the names of diners at several tables where he checked in frequently to make sure all going according to plan.
Doing my best to snap a few photos before the buffet was in full swing before returning to my table to find a young waitress that was soon to be overstretched in serving more than a dozen tables, it was with champagne and coffee glass filled that the details of the dining room were described and soon given an enormous cheesy pop-over plus whipped butter by a tall male back-server the experience was underway, the airy bread exceedingly wispy beneath a soft golden shell with cheesy top-notes so pronounced that it almost led me to request another – until I recalled what treasures were to come.
Acknowledging my limitations as relates to alcohol, and as such imbibing in only two-and-a-half glasses of Perrier Jouet along with at least three-fold as many refills of coffee during the course of my 175 minute stay, it was with a deliberate pace and path that I worked my way through the buffet’s offerings, a first plate featuring the restaurant’s heralded omelet prepped to order with 2oz of caviar, a trio of blinis, and a nicely grilled lobster tail plus freshly drawn butter at its side.
Generally underwhelmed by buffet seafood, but immediately impressed by both the lobster as well as the caviar, a second trip saw snappy shrimp set beside another tail, more roe, plus two types of crab and although the cold pre-cracked claws were a little more grainy than I’d have hoped the King Crab was as sweet and succulent as most found in fine dining establishments spanning the strip, a follow-up of benedicts from the kitchen taking far too long to prepare and meagerly decorated with protein when compared to what customers can just as easily gather themselves.
Taken by the delicacy of noodles surrounding lobster ravioli topped in a sauce quite similar to the bisque, but richer when thickened by hot cast iron, and more than a little surprised at just how supple the slab bacon was when sliced to order, it was here that sweets would first be sampled and although the miniature waffles topped with whipped cream and macerated fruit plus a drizzle of maple syrup were a nice balance of crisp, pliable, and yeasty the laminated pastry given a custard bath before being baked into French Toast was an absolute show-stopper, easily amongst the best in the city and far superior to many that cost $17-20 at several 24-hour cafes.
Spending some time admiring decorations fashioned from reappropriated utensils, the restaurant now nearing half-full with several inebriated patrons pushing the noise level to a dull roar, it was unfortunate that neither the flimsy bacon nor run-of-the-mill sausage were any better than that available at a neighborhood diner while the tiny slice of filet mignon was almost inedibly cooked past well – the tender lamb chops as well as stuffed chicken proving far better seasoned and prepared on my final plate of savories before rounding out the experience in to a quartet of plates featuring small desserts, fruits, cheeses, and nuts.
At this point losing track of the server who seemed to be covering half the room, it was to the GM that I appealed for another cup of coffee and tasting through each of the sweets presented from the bar up front only two items really stood out – the hazelnut tart for its ability to reinvent Nutella into an ever-so-light mousse and the Cheesecake whose sour thickness was absolutely the opposite, a far better bite found in a small bowl of grilled peaches and candied bacon atop fresh pulled burrata that sat unannounced on the cold bar next to an equally fresh berry and yogurt parfait.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Without a doubt an experience, the quality of the cuisine and beverages easily justifying the cost for fans of shellfish and those capable of drinking their fair share of bubbly brut, Sterling Buffet lived up to its ‘bucket list’ billing as one of those places that everyone should try once, the impetus to return a matter of tastes and budget, particularly in a city where far more vast spreads can be found at a mere fraction of the cost.
RECOMMENDED: Lobster Tails, Caviar and Blinis, Roasted Slab Bacon, Bread Pudding French Toast with Caramelized Bananas, Hazelnut Chocolate Tart, Grilled Peaches with Bacon and Burrata.
TIP: Aside from the obvious fact that the free Total Rewards program will save each diner $5, those gambling frequently within the Harrah’s properties would be well advised to inquire about comps, the two tables adjacent to mine clearly known to waiters who addressed each man by name and never presented them a bill.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Long ranking on my American dining bucket list it was almost serendipity that The Catbird Seat returned from a team vacation to noma during my final day in Nashville, and having contacted the restaurant directly when the online reservation system continued to show no seats for the whole week prior it was a true measure of generosity that saw a seat offered even before books opened for my coveted first seating, a 5:30 arrival finding just one other couple present as we watched the team work diligently preparing canapés while completing last minute mis en place.
Reported by some to have slipped a notch since the departure of Chef Erik Anderson and promotion of Trevor Moran to top toque, it was immediately on downstairs entry that the experience began and treated to the a glass of bubbly verjus the quick ascent in an elevator soon saw me seated with a head-on view of the kitchen, potentially the best seat in the house with a beef tendon puffed like a chicharron ready in wait.
Assuring the team of no allergies or intolerances, and opting for the $35 non-alcoholic pairing that generally lacked inspiration with not only redundant flavors but also a repeat of the floral soda at dessert, it was with great rapidity that the next four bites arrived and although the ham amidst aromatics and light smoke was truly delicious both the oyster and razor clam seemed strangely out of place, the herbal tea a clever enough concept when used to reinvigorate the grilled seaweed oil, but mostly just filler and a sign flavors to come.
Undoubtedly taking on some of the terroir as plates progressed, the first proper course of the meal was perhaps the most intriguing of all, and although the pairing with sweetened grapefruit did not really do much to improve the silky beef topped in snail eggs and puffed rice both the flavors and textures were more than enough to tantalize the palate while also showing the kitchen’s ability to do more than just accent everything with smoke.
At this point joined by several other diners, many regulars that saw gifted plates from the kitchen extend out their tasting while the rest of us stood by, it was with more smoke in hand that the next plate arrived, the puree of pommes not particularly photogenic but creamy and almost ethereal beneath foam from local brewer’s yeast and yet another top note of smoke.
Settling in for what seemed destined to be a long meal of dynamic, if not entirely unique, bites it was next in almost comically smoked caviar that we indulged and although the dollop of eggs was quite generous I almost couldn’t believe my ears when the follow-up of crispy pork tail was presented as the ‘final savory’ – a mere sixty-five minutes passed as the hibiscus tea accented with dill proved a challenge to stomach, let alone understand.
Sure enough transitioning here from savory to sweet without so much as cheese, sorbet, or even a new drink it was to an elegantly decorated cake of textures beneath light tang that the first few diners were treated and receiving another glass of the verjus just a few minutes later the pairing unfortunately proved a bit too floral when melding with pearls of hibiscus, a far better sip found in the blend of herbs and apples with which the last two courses would be had.
At this point hoping that the menu had not entirely morphed from earlier days I was thankful that the penultimate plate was Catbird Seat’s famous “Ice Cream Salad,” and utilizing the gentle sweetness of sorrel with chilly citrus and southern staples of bourbon and pecan the flavor was as dynamic as the texture, a similar compliment paid to the potato shaped Toppel that spilled forth cream to create a sort dip-and-bite experience with ‘dirt’ that balanced out the sugar with careful bitterness, a final bit of whimsy that left me with a good taste in my mouth and a smile on my face despite walking out a mere 2-hours after entry still feeling hungry, perplexed by the hype, and wondering how, exactly, a place like this survives in Nashville at greater than $200 a head after tax and tip.
Acknowledging that I’d be back in Las Vegas just twelve hours later, and therefore without a proper place for Barbeque within one hundred miles, it was at pitmaster Patrick Martin’s eponymous BBQ joint that my penultimate meal in Nashville would take place, and proudly pronouncing that no freezers or shortcuts are used in a space where everything is made fresh each day it was clearly evident that these folks were serious about their craft from the moment we walked in, as a man walked from the back with a whole hog over-shoulder before depositing it in a pit and preceding to break it down and add seasoning in plain view of anyone willing to watch.
At this point a bit of a chain, now with locations creeping out of the state, but still adhering to long-held traditions felt essential to the craft, the menu at Martin’s reads like many similar places in the State of Tennessee and although the ‘Redneck Tacos’ and tamales both intrigued me a little the best bet seemed a more simplistic approach, the Ribs and Pork combo with sides served up within moments along with a gifted Goo-Goo cluster from the server who ‘couldn’t believe’ I’d never tried one plus a slice of even gooier candied pecan pie.
Slightly more pricey than other ‘cue stops around Nashville, but undoubtedly using a higher grade of meat than most, it was perhaps no surprise that both the fall-from-the-bone ribs as well as the smoke imbued shoulder were a perfect pairing of protein admixed with melted fat and although many suggest the Alabama White sauce as Martin’s go-to sauce based on novelty alone everyone at the table agreed that the Southern Belle was a significant upgrade on that which is found at Peg Leg Porker or Jack’s, though the sides perhaps need a bit of work as both the hoe cake and hushpuppies were quite heavy and largely lacking in flavor while potato salad was merely towing the status quo.
Coffee Chocolate Bar / Salt and Pepper Buttermilk White Chocolate Bar
Having seen the words Olive and Sinclair, or O+S, on almost every menu in Nashville over the course of more desserts than most would dare to try in just a five day span, it was at the Chocolatiers factory that Saturday afternoon found us and with the admission fee easily reimbursed on items in the giftstore where samples of no less than five chocolates were offered in limitless quantity one would be hard pressed to name a better way to spend an hour, let alone five bucks.
Originally a bean-to-bar outfit, but recently making its name with brittles and caramels oft named amongst the nations ‘best-of,’ Olive and Sinclair is a far smaller operation than their Whole Foods reach would make one guess yet at the same time certainly larger than spots like Dandelion or Tcho, let alone the newly hatched HeXX back home in Nevada.
Utilizing old stone grinders, admittedly for show according the owner Scott Witherow, before proper milling, blending, tempering, and more the tour at O+S takes the visitor literally from bean to bar and allowing for tastes of dried cacao, black liquor, and the milkfat white chocolate in their purest forms a sense of passion is clearly perceived, the final station showing off Brittle made of smoked cocoa from nearby purveyors of cured meats.
Clearly playing on Southern themes with bars that include everything from buttermilk to bourbon it warrants mention that Olive and Sinclair’s chocolates are not the typical flavors one would associate with purity, region, or terroir, yet with flavors that pop and smoothness almost incomparable in the market the decision of which is ‘best’ largely becomes one of personal preference – the dark sea salt a bit too ‘fruity’ for my preferences while the cinnamon chili was admittedly a shocker in its subtleties, both brittles pleasant in their slowly evolving flavor profiles beneath bold topnotes while a duo of caramels rivaled the best on this side of the Atlantic, the acidic finish likely not to everyone’s taste but lightly reminiscent to that of a Chess Pie and all the better for it in my eyes.
Maple Fondue – cardamom-scented / fresh fruit / red velvet waffle / blueberry cornmeal waffle / grilled sausages / frosted flake pain perdu
Again exiting the conference for an extended break as the City of Nashville’s humidity finally gave way to rain, it was perhaps an oversight of Vanderbilt’s love of a boozy brunch that saw us arrive at Tavern to the tune of a 90-minute wait, the time largely spent wandering nearby Centennial Park beneath umbrellas until a text called us forth from the Pantheon to be seated amongst a mass of humanity with well lubricated co-eds screaming to be heard above the loud tunes echoing from high ceilings overhead.
Dining with a pair of ladies from the era which several of the restaurant’s 1960s tunes were sourced, and thus clearly not of a demographic common during the hour of our meal, suffice it to say that the ninety minute wait was further compromised by overstretched service that saw our table ignored until a manager was flagged down fifteen minutes later, the kitchen itself equally stressed but trying to make good by sending out four scoops of luke-warm “White Trash Hash” as the wait-time for plates was extended another twenty-five minutes after the order was eventually placed.
Already aware that my memory of the experience would be marred by the aforementioned events no matter how good the cuisine, it was unsurprising that when all items were brought out at once there was evidence of a good bit of heat-lamp treatment to found and although the Kaya Toast was actually quite impressive in its balance of textures as well as flavors despite the unnecessary decorative hot sauce, the biscuits were leaden and far too soggy, the supposed cheddar almost undetectable beneath gravy that tasted little of spice and closer to oversalted ham.
Unable to pass on sweets, but unaware that the “fondue” featured both Red Velvet and Blueberry waffles since the later was not amongst the menu items listed, it was with an unnecessary plate of the crispy cornmeal checkerboard that the meal progressed and faring far better than the doughy red velvet iteration which lacked any semblance of coco suffice it to say that any suggestion of ‘cardamom’ in the ‘maple’ syrup was so faint as to be imperceptible, the snappy spiced sausage and cornflake crusted French Toast saving the otherwise lackluster shared plate.
Informed that desserts are only offered at dinner, and as such going even sweeter than usual with mains, it was finally the restaurant’s thinly poured flapjacks that crossed our lips and although a better effort could have been made than a topping of pretzels straight from a bag it would be difficult to find any other fault in the buttermilk triplet, the sticky-sweet caramel finding an unexpectedly willing dancing partner in light chocolate mousse that produced a flavor not unlike that of tres leches as it soaked the pancakes straight down to the plate.
Lily – Biscuit French Toast, Lemon Mascarpone, Blueberry Compote, House Syrup
Cheese Grits
Hoping to literally “save the best for last” by visiting Biscuit Love Brunch as our last breakfast in Music City it was just after 7:30am that parking was allocated in front of the space on Saturday, and although the crowd would soon grow to near capacity it was to a line of only two persons that I stepped up after quickly perusing the menu – a trio of ‘biscuits,’ one side, and the restaurant’s signature item arriving hot from the kitchen after a mere ten minute wait.
Considered by some to trend a bit too hip to be taken seriously while fans suggest that Biscuit Love may serve the best buttermilk rounds in the Volunteer State suffice it to say that anything the risen golden circles may lack is more than made up for in creativity as a menu of cleverly named concoctions meet with well sourced and housemade accoutrements, any thoughts of items being overwrought proven mere myths as a surprising degree of dexterity is found amidst even the most decadently topped bites.
Able to sample a taste of plain biscuit by way of the open-faced presentation of East Nasty, the base of all that Biscuit Love has accomplished is certainly a bit different than the more hefty iterations offered at Loveless, Puckett’s, or even Barista Parlor yet taking into account the golden shell atop wispy crumb the batter makes sense when utilized as diversely as the kitchen opts, both the Chicken and Cheddar iteration with Sausage Gravy as well as the version topped more sweetly in chocolate and jam proving absolutely delicious without being the belly bomb that their descriptions may cause one to fear.
Moving next to more novel uses of the dough alongside a small bowl of grits rich with sticky, aged cheese, Lily was the sort of dish that played strongly to my predilections and with the aforementioned lightness of crumb more than happy to soak up custard the steamy French Toast was very well complimented with vibrant lemon and bursting blueberries cooked down in syrup, the same citrus mascarpone packing the cavity of fried biscuit bites entitled ‘bonuts’ that seemed omnipresent at tables throughout the dining room, the lightness of each almost defying logic and proving the sort of thing you may want more than one order of as sharing may induce a later sense of regret.
Frequently named amongst the best restaurants in Nashville, and yet another in the long list of places proudly promoting a seasonal menu focused on Italian accented Southern fare, it was at City House that the trip’s final dinner with family would be enjoyed and although some aspects of the night were marred by an exceedingly loud group of bachelorettes and service that seemed far more interested in tables to whom he could push expensive bottles of wine the food itself was mostly quite good, a few significant highs and the rest at least well enough prepared to let the quality of well sourced ingredients show.
Situated in an old home with seating spread amidst a large downstairs and two rooms comprising the space above, it was at first that our seating in a small former bedroom seemed a bit unfortunate but once the bridesmaids became well lubricated even the warm, stagnant air was preferable to the shrieks and shouts echoing off high ceilings – our server more than once pulled to assist another young man that appeared to be an overwhelmed trainee as thirty minutes passed between ordering and first courses that never once saw our party checked in on at all.
Eventually mentioning the lack of attention to our server, a confronting attitude offered where an apology would have been far better made, it was thankfully here that appetizers arrived, the crisply fried cheese and vegetables offering a slight bit of heat amidst hefty aromatics while the lightly charred pizza featured a crust robust enough to stand up to several unctuous toppings, the signature cornbread dumplings dotted in pancetta, tomatoes, and greens certainly as hefty a plate as would be expected, a dish best shared to be sure as a half-portion would serve smaller appetites as a meal in itself.
Onward to entrees, at this point visibly seeing patrons in the larger room wince at the behavior exhibited from the party of twelve, it was another large bowl of pasta that proved the best of three plates for as good as each sausage was the accoutrements leaned heavily on the use of onions with the chicken version all the more confounded by what seemed like nothing more than raw lettuce, an odd choice to say the least, though certainly not as unpalatable as the side of corn grits that was so bracingly bitter than it went almost untouched, a ‘your mileage may vary’ plate to say the very least.
Having heard many positives of the City House dessert program, enough so that the meal would culminate in an order most easily stated as “one of each, please,” it was here that I was glad none of the entrees compelled me to overeat for as much as the prices of some savories seemed a tad excessive the $8 sweets were portioned exceedingly generous, the lightly set panna cotta most certainly the lightest of the quartet despite its bold flavors while the strawberry tart melded cream and fruit flawlessly, both cakes far more decadent with the poundcake potentially containing as much as a stick of butter per slice and the layered Tennessee Waltz just boozy enough to tantalize the tastebuds up front before dissipating into notes of coffee and caramel competing for top billing amidst a buttermilk tinge.
Japanese Method Iced Coffee – Kunjin Papua New Guinea
Maple Praline Coffee Cake
Blueberry Muffin
Black Cherry Cornmeal Scone
Going above and beyond Barista Palor by not only roasting its own beans on premises, but also in offering a more pleasant and intimate experience conducive to lounging and feeling at ease, Nashville’s Crema takes a page straight out of the Pacific Northwest while offering the sort of Southern hospitality rarely associated with hip and trendy Coffee Houses, a best of both worlds sort of experience well worth investing some time to sip, savor, and relax.
Independently owned, with a hefty wood décor and outdoor deck overlooking the ever evolving Music City landscape, arrival at Crema found the café approximately half-full at half-past four and with several options available from espresso to pourover it was largely an effect of the sunny outdoors that saw us order two iced coffees and one cup of tea, the late day bakery discount unable to be resisted despite dinner plans just a few hours away.
Spending a few moments browsing the beans and brewing paraphernalia while drinks were poured and pastries plated it was soon in comfy leather chairs that each of us sat, the coldbrew nutty and smooth in body with virtually no acidity while both the muffin and scone were moist yet toothsome and chock-full of berries, the coffee cake an all time ‘best of’ contender as buttery batter tinged in maple found balance with candied bits of nuts strewn liberally throughout.
Margherita DOP – San Marzano Tomato Sauce, Basil, Garlic, Scamorza, Mozzarella di Bufala, Pecorino Romano
Bianca – Garlic, Mozzarella di Bufala, Scamorza, Ricotta, Pecorino Romano
Cannoli Tradizionale
Considered by most to be Nashville’s best pizza, and undeniably the most authentic Neapolitan Pizzeria in town, it was for a second lunch that DeSano Pizza Bakery was visited and with a triple stone oven format as well as a proper dough room similar to that of Atlanta’s Rustica the experience unfolds quite similarly, a condescending youngster sporting a flock of seagulls haircut at the counter the lone fault in what was otherwise a very impressive place to purchase a pie.
Now part of a small chain, with locations as far west as Los Angeles extending all the way to Charleston South Carolina, the idea behind DeSano is a simple one with focus on tradition and imported ingredients, but with prices comparable to places as yet not using authentic bufala mozzarella and San Marzanos, let alone flour transported from Italy, the value for the dollar here is well worth consideration – even the refusal to add additional ingredients to the Bianca showing an adherence to old world rules with flavor and texture to match.
Obviously not a place to cut corners or lack for lines around lunch, but one that was found mostly deserted just after noontime rush, it was at the aforementioned front counter that orders were placed and taking a seat at one of several communal tables it was a mere five minutes before pizza was delivered with cheese still bubbling, a light bit of char conferred by the mere sixty seconds spent adjacent to the wood fueled fire.
Treated to the sounds of Italian Opera as we tucked in, it was also a $5.25 Traditional Cannoli that was tasted, and although freshly filled with creamy ricotta at a small station to the left of the ovens neither the size nor the flavor remotely justified the pricetag, a bit of a shame as the pizzas themselves were a shade over double the price with soft stretch amidst light yeasty notes and the sort of natural-yet-perfect flavors that let you know exactly how much effort goes into their creation, the Margherita as fresh and zesty as can be found anywhere in America while the Bianca was the very picture of creaminess amidst garlic and just the lightest hints of smoke.
Again granted a two-hour lunch it was with good fortune that family had stuck close to downtown after breakfast, and driving Northwest from Music City Center it would not be long before the car was parked before Prince’s Hot Chicken, a restaurant revered by locals and tourists alike for serving some of the best fried bird and boldest spice profiles around.
Certainly with its “charms” as relates to location and décor, essentially tucked away in a strip-mall with a simple sign and painted glass that could use a fresh coat while the interior features a cash-only window plus a few tables and booths, it should come as no surprise that Prince’s is the sort of place prone to comments about questionable cleanliness, but with staff as friendly and attentive as the vast majority of Southern spots the room was actually quite tidy, just a little bit run-down.
Chuckling at the broken water fountain, something that almost seems intentional to push $1.50 bottles of water in a space known to offer blistering sauces ranging from mild to ‘xxxhot,’ it was after only a moment of indecision that an order was placed, and waiting mere moments before our ticket number as called a tray and two plates were soon in hand, a trio of desserts later purchased from an elderly African American woman who brings in her house baked goods every day just prior to noon.
Opting to take it easy on spices after the effects of Hot Chicken in Memphis it was with one plate of mild and another of medium that the meal began and first tasting the lightly spiced breast my initial reaction was one of wonder as to how they managed to make the batter so crisp while the flesh was so moist, the next bites of leg and thigh raising the bar even higher with just a light bit of burn tickling the back of the throat and base of the tongue.
Amused that my dining partners found even the mild to be a bit too heated for their tongues, and taking the opportunity to gladly finish off the wing as well as saucy bread beneath, it was onward to desserts that we moved and although roughly packed in plastic clamshells for easy portability the flavor of each selection more than made up for any lack of showmanship, the Hummingbird amongst the most pineapple-studded I’ve sampled to date beneath a lacquer of rich icing while the chess was pleasantly tangy and smooth, a best bite found from the buttery yellow caramel iteration with glistening tan frosting and plenty of sweetness to spare.
