Glutton
Coffee
GLUTTON MARY – kim chee bloody mary, American Harvest Vodka, shrimp, pickled mushrooms, celery, togarashi chili
MORNINGSHADE – chilled coffee, Patron Cafe tequila, milk, cinnamon, orange, vanilla
PIG ROAST – bacon infused Xicaru mezcal, Giffard creme de peche, pineapple, lime, Hawaiian li hing
BOURBON MISCHIEF – ???
MI VIDA ROCA – Roca Patron silver, ginger ale, lemon, cucumber soda
FREMONT FLIP – Selvarey rum, St. George spiced pear liqueur, lemon, egg white, cardamon bitters
DEER IN HEADLIGHTS – Glenfiddich 15 yr Solera, Lustau Pedro Ximenez sherry, benedictine, Angostura
Cinnamon Bun – Vanilla Cream Cheese Frosting, Vietnamese Cinnamon
Coffee and Doughnuts – French Crullers, Espresso Cream
Spicy Pork Rinds – Cayenne, Cheddar
Salmon Chips – Pastrami Cured Salmon, Tomato Caper Relish, Cracked Mustard Cream Cheese, Red Onion
Baked Tomatoes and Eggs – Tomato & Piquillo Pepper Sauce, Two Eggs, Parmesan, Tuscan Kale, Grilled Ciabatta
Yeast Risen Pancakes – Cultured Butter, Maple Cider Syrup
Steak and Eggs – Kalbi Marinated Rib Eye, Kimchee Fried Rice, Poached Egg
Benedict – Braised Pork Cheek, Poached Eggs, Crispy Speck, Focaccia, Roasted Garlic Hollandaise
Charcuterie Panini – Finocchiona Salumi, Bresaola, Cappicola, Manchego Cheese, Fig Preserves
Belgian Waffle – Wood Roasted Peaches, Bourbon Butterscotch, Whipped Cream
Caramel Corn Profiteroles – Salted Caramel, Popcorn Ice Cream, Peanuts
Rice Pudding Arancini – Milk Chocolate, Cinnamon Infused Wild Honey, Sea Salt
Peach Cobbler – Wood Roasted Peaches, Bourbon Butterscotch, Pecan Streusel, Ginger & Ricotta Ice Cream
Located directly across from nearby Container Park, and featuring a name as well as signage that has drawn disapproval from many since even before opening its doors, Glutton from Chef Bradley Manchester has no less received quite a bit of praise from those who’ve actually indulged in the cuisine and taking a look at the newly hatched brunch menu with a baker’s dozen plates plus several cocktails on Saturday morning it seems that not only is the name at least partially appropriate, but so too are the accolades.
Perhaps an unknown commodity to many in Las Vegas, the young chef having sharpened his teeth at several hotels including a recent stint at Green Valley Ranch, Chef Manchester describes Glutton as offering ‘urban neighborhood cuisine’ and although he himself was not present during an 11:00am visit the kitchen showed few signs of vacating the concept while execution was nearly spot on, the service performing a rare feat of being both professional and whimsical while treating every diner from pre-teen to elderly with attentiveness and respect.
Making a few menu selections while letting the kitchen send out a few plates for which they felt most proud, it was my dining companion’s focus on cocktails that saw seven drinks spanning both brunch and dinner menus arrive, and tasting each in limited quantity I was particularly impressed by the smooth fruit and coffee tones of Morningshade while the Deer in the Headlights riff on a Manhattan proved refined despite being amply boozed up, the Lemon Drop leaning Fremont Flip another dangerous sip with a frothy head and citrusy finish that might make it way too easy for even the most restrained to quickly end up soused.
Turning attention to the food, suffice it to say that baked goods and pastries were expected to be strong in a place with a logo suggesting a stretched waistline, and although the choux-based crullers resting in bitter cream were decidedly an adult taste well suited for one or two the cinnamon roll with crackling caramel was a decadent block of curled brioche beneath a lacquer of vanilla frosting well suited for diners of all-ages with a portion more than ample for a whole four-top to share.
Onward to more, the kitchen coursing everything out so that the table was never overburdened, round two showed the kitchen’s strength in sourcing with snappy crisps draped in smoked salmon spiced like pastrami amidst several bold accoutrements before sending forth a casserole of baked eggs with spice and acidity deftly cut by crispy kale, and although the eve- hip pork skins would only be served on request a bit later, these too were nothing short of a twisted inspiration as the flavors of Cheetos were shortly reminisced with a light bit of heat then left to linger on the lips.
Transitioning here to entrees, a duo of savories meeting with the menu’s unexpected star, it was to what I consider to be the city’s new standard for pancakes that course three began, and with an ethereal crumb generated by leavening beneath butter and syrup the texture was such that a whole stack still would not weigh too heavily on the belly, a good thing as the duo of smoky Pork Benedict with crispy duck fat potatoes and “Steak and Eggs” that unfortunately trended a bit too sour by pairing kimchee to kalbi were each quite hearty, the eggs of the former notably a bit overpoached and the only real flaw in execution found throughout the course of our two-hour stay.
Rounding out savories with a toasty Panini composed of three types of cured meat beneath a veil of Spanish cheese and housemade fig jam it was here that eyes proved in excess to capacity, a trio of desserts and the daily special of a Belgian Waffle each thwarting any intention to not overeat, the creamy arancini a mature sort of finale featuring fried cinnamon risotto with a milk chocolate center while the profiteroles harkened my favorite dessert of 2014, the milk steeped in buttered popcorn providing an adept frozen foil to the sweet n’ savory flavors of Cracker Jack while the ginger tinged ice cream proved equally impressive as it swiftly melted over roasted peaches and a caramelized pecan crust.
FOUR STARS: Already executing at a very high level from the kitchen to the front of the house one would be hard pressed to name a more interesting spot for brunch in DTLV than Glutton, and with all due respect to the lines of folks waiting in lines at eat. a quick glimpse at each menu should make one rethink such follies…or at least consider the bar raised when looking for a top tier morning meal worth the hassles of finding parking and feeding downtown meters.
RECOMMENDED: Yeast Risen Pancakes, Salmon Chips, Cinnamon Roll, Charcuterie Panini, Caramel Corn Profiteroles, Deer in Headlights, Fremont Flip.
AVOID: Steak and Eggs, Pig Roast, Reading too much into the online menu, and seating too close to the room’s corners where tables seem a bit crowded.
TIP: Although the online menu during our visit indicated that Lunch is offered from 11L00-2:30 Monday through Saturday, this was in fact incorrect and has since been remedied to indicate 11:00-2:30 Monday through Friday with Brunch offered 9am-3pm on Saturday and Sunday. Menu selections are also notably subject to change, a few items such as the uni toast not present during our visit while the Waffle was offered as an off-menu special.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.gluttonlv.com/
