Stewart + Ogden
Country Biscuits & Gravy – two country style biscuits with house made sausage gravy
“The Best” Carrot Cake with Sugared Cream Cheese Icing
Carrot Cake Pancakes – Country Style Carrot Cake Recipe, Cream Cheese Frosting
Red Velvet Pancakes with Cream Cheese Frosting and Whipped Butter
Cinnamon Roll Waffles – Cinnamon Dough, Waffle Press, Sugar Glaze
Sticky Bun Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce, Caramelized Pecans, Whipped Cream
Hawaiian French Toast – Toasted Coconut & Pina Colada Crusted Brioche, Berry Compote, Cookie Butter
Located in the Downtown Grand and named in homage to immigrants Archibald Stewart and Peter Ogden, the appropriately named “Stewart + Ogden” Café has been the source of decidedly mixed reactions since its 2013 opening but having recently retooled the concept and the menu under the direction of Michel Richard protégé Todd Harrington I finally decided to see the restaurant for myself, an old friend in town coming along for a five plate jaunt through the restaurant’s sweet breakfast selections plus a pair of desserts. Served by Scott as trendy tunes floated overhead amidst a deluge of chandeliers it was to great coffee and friendly service that we were greeted just after the restaurant’s 7am opening and seated close to the bar the it was with a simple request that courses were paced out in decadent progression, none less than good and a few truly exemplary over the course of an hour with coffee never less than half-full. Beginning with a single savory before for moving to sweets, homemade biscuits would prove fluffy yet well-buttered beneath thick spiced gravy and although perhaps an odd pairing with a slice of “The Best” carrot cake, I actually preferred the biscuits as the cake itself was excellent while the frosting was just a bit too sweet. Moving next to a far better use of the carrot cake batter, cast-iron skilled pancakes with light cream cheese drizzle would prove light and every bit on par with those at MTO Café while the similarly topped Red Velvet stack would prove the best I’ve had to date with light cocoa tones filling the a fluffy batter bronzed by the griddle. At this point already impressed but expecting great things from what would follow given Harrington’s Crème Brulee French toast at Central it was with a trio that the meal wrapped up and with the waffles truly harkening a crunchy yeasted cinnamon roll it was the nearly molten bread-pudding and complex, custard style French toast impressed most – the later begging for a little umbrella given its island influence and crispy coconut topping juxtaposing creamy cookie butter and bursting berries.
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