Lago
Tiramisu Cocktail – St. George NOLA Coffee Liqueur, Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur, Tiramisu Liqueur, Bailey’s Irish Cream, Mascarpone Cheese, House Made Vanilla Ice Cream, Iced Espresso, Chocolate Curls, Italian Chocolate Cookie Dipped in Selvarey
Allie Olive Verdi Focaccine – Roasted Green Olive, Pecorino / Alla Ricotta E Miele Focaccine – Ricotta Cheese, Honey / Guanciale E Fave Focaccine – Fava Beans, Cured Pork Cheek
Cheese Platter – Ubriaco del Piave, Quadrello di Bufala, Pecorino, Parmigiano, Carta Musica Bread, Horseradish Candied Fruits
Salumi Platter – Prosciutto di Parma, Finocchiona Salame, Rosemary Porchetta, Carta Musica Bread
Crudo Plate with Citrus-Colatura di Alici – Ahi Tuna, Orange Segments / Scallop, Blood Orange, Pistachio / Skuna Bay Salmon, Crispy Caper
Risotta Alla Trippa e Funghi – Tripe, Mushroom, Mint
Risotto al Vino Rosso – Red Wine, Burrata
Gnocchi Alla Romana – Flat Semolina Gnocchi, Blue Cheese
7&7 – Potato Gnocchi, Lobster Knuckles, Salsa di Crostacei
Polpo e Fregola al Nero – Octopus, Squid Ink Cous Cous, Bottarga
‘Nduja Crostini – Spicy Pork Sausage, Gorgonzola
Al Cipollotto e Speck Pizzette – Buffalo Ricotta, Cipolline Onion, Speck
Canneloni – Pulled Pork Short Ribs, Parmesan Fonduta, Tomato Sauce
Malloreddos – Small Morsel Pasta: Sardegna, Pork Sausage, Tomato Sauce
Polpette di Carne – Tomato Braised Beef Meatballs
Viteello Tonnato – Chilled Thin Slice Veal, Tuna Caper Dressing
Scaloppina di Vitello – Veal Piccata
Costa di Manzao – Slow Cooked Short Ribs
Quaglia Saltimbocca – Boneless Quail, Prosciutto, Sage
Osso Buco – Red Wine Braised Veal Shank, Polenta al Formaggio
Garganelli – Squid Ink Garganelli, Whole Lobster, Tomatoes
Amalfi – Hazelnut Praline, Limoncello Curd, Meringue, Limoncello Sorbet, Passion Fruit Coulis
Biancomangiare – Raspberry and Vanilla Cream, Shortbread Cookie, Fresh Berries, Strawberry Gelato, Mixed Berry Coulis
Cremino al Carmello – Chocolate Mousse, Passion Fruit, Caramel Glaze
Flourless Chocolate Cake – Chocolate Mousse, Chocolate Ganache, Crisp Chocolate, Chocolate Sorbet
Hazelnut Bombe – Hazelnut Cream, Milk Chocolate Shell, Crème Anglaise, Hazelnut Ice Cream
Double Espresso on Ice
Sitting down with friends both new and old at newly opened Lago by Julian Serrano one could not help but comment on the space – the lounge up front lively and full of tightly dressed servers, the long bar well stocked with a bevy of spirits and ubiquitous televisions, and the breathtaking views of the Bellagio fountains gleaming in bright white – all a staunch departure from previous occupant, Circo, and although opinions varied from “CVS” to “trendy and fun” the service could not have been better, members of our table very well known to the chef and his team leading to an “anything goes” sort of experience where much fun was had, and plenty of plates were passed.
Part of the growing ‘small-plates’ trend, clearly targeting the Hyde crowd with a bumping soundtrack and see-and-be-seen settings, it was just after 6:00pm that our party of six found seating at a large circular table far from the bustle up front, and served family style with the chef making most decisions the meal began with well concocted cocktails and continued swiftly into plates of cheese, charcuterie, fociaccia, and crudo from which only the latter was particularly special – the scallops particularly buttery atop blood oranges with crunchy pistachios dialing up the textural contrast in a way that practically redefined the oft overcooked mollusk.
Moving next to pastas, several bound to become signatures given the sharability and relative low price compared to meats, breads, and entrees, it was here that the Lago kitchen really flexed its muscles and as good as both the lobster knuckle gnocchi and flatter version soaked in cheesy fondue were it was the risotto that undoubtedly stole the show, the red wine tinged version stretchy and smooth with burrata while the spiced up iteration with mint was the most memorable plate of the evening, small bits of tripe soft and seamlessly blended with rice that was good enough that we immediately requested a second bowl.
Impressed by tender octopus with large cous-cous soaked in black ink while wishing that the crostini with spicy Calabrian pork as well as the pizza were perhaps twice the size considering the price, it was here that the menu unfortunately found a few weaknesses, for as good as the previous pastas had been neither the Malloreddos or the Canneloni were particularly memorable, the former’s pasta dramatically undercooked while the sauce of each was no better than stuff from a jar or Chef Boyardee.
Moving to heavier proteins, though not particularly a fan of veal it should be noted that the Viteello Tonnato stood heads and shoulders above the piccata, particularly as a light option for those heading to the club next door, and although both the meatballs and shortribs were ‘good,’ neither were nearly on par with versions available both on and off strip, though both will surely please palates of the less adventurous sort.
Personally impressed by the quail, while others found the pork-wrapped bird to be far too greasy, it was with two large plates that savories would conclude and although the osso buco is a good rendition the dollar-per-ounce ratio was far tilted to the left compared to better versions at Portofino and Allegro while the $55 Garganelli’s pasta and tomatoes were textbook, though the lobster was overcooked and flavorless – a damned shame considering the quality of the one served over the gnocchi noted above.
Taking coffee, a strong double espresso over ice that could have just as easily been replaced by the tiramisu cocktail I’d ordered to kick things off, along with desserts it was with an unfortunate whimper that Lago closed out the evening, for as ‘cute’ as each of the five plates was not a single bite save for the Limoncello spiked Amalfi was better than something found at Bellagio Buffet, let alone nearby Jean-Phillipe, the $10 each tab harkening memories of Bazaar by Jose Andres for least inspired and overpriced pastries available in a city where no lack of exquisite desserts exist.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Expectedly precious and pricey, though no bill was presented to our table, Lago has a long way to go before becoming a ‘go to’ for people serious about their food and although I’m sure early reviews will be gushing given the nature of Las Vegas food media (and the fact that Serrano smartly launched the place with a Yelp event giving food, and $125 gift cards away to ‘gold’ elites) the truth is that better Italian food can be found in almost any US City at half the cost, or in nearly any local casino without all the bright lights and Avicii overhead.
RECOMMENDED: Both Risottos, Scallop Crudo, Polpo e Fregola al Nero.
AVOID: Canneloni, Malloreddos, Desserts.
TIP: Those looking for a bit less ‘noise’ would be well advised to request seating on the al fresco patio overlooking the Bellagio Fountains, or a small semi-private room across from the bar where speakers are far less ubiquitous.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.bellagio.com/restaurants/lago.aspx
